Bunny Laying In Litter Box? Trust The Answer

Guide to Bunny Poops

A big thank you to Christie Taylor for sharing this article with BUNS. Christine is an educator at the House Rabbit Society and holds PhDs in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology from the University of Miami Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine. You can find her on Twitter at @graamhoek.

This is a quick guide to rabbit poop. You can poop-o-gram a lot of data if you’re careful. Always consult your vet before changing your rabbit’s diet. If your rabbit hasn’t pooped in the last 24 hours, please take them to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Thank you to everyone who helped improve this guide!

bunny poops

Medium sized rabbits make 200-300 poops a day. They should be uniform in size and shape, meaning round and the size of a pea to a chickpea. Your rabbit’s size doesn’t always predict the size of its poop.

Rabbits are naturally very clean – in the wild they relieve themselves in the same places and don’t soil the inside of their burrows. House rabbits also tend to only urinate and urinate in one or a few spots and respond well to house training.

Some rabbits learn to use a litter box on their own, but most need a little help from their handlers. Most rabbits quickly learn to urinate into a tray, but will still spill some poo on the floor. This is normal rabbit behavior and the dry, odorless droppings are safe to dispose of (see below).

You can housetrain a rabbit when it is only a few weeks old; Adult rabbits (over a year old) are often easier to train because they are past puberty and are generally neater and more relaxed, especially if they are neutered. Spaying and neutering are essential when keeping your rabbit indoors. During puberty, rabbits become very restless and want to mark their territory with lots of urine and faeces. Even trained rabbits can lose their good habits and this can happen any spring if your rabbit is not spayed. Neutering also eliminates spraying over a period of a few weeks or months.

How it goes

It’s important to get your rabbit used to their litter box from day one, so make sure you have a litter box or two ready when you bring your rabbit home. Providing more than one litter box increases your rabbit’s chances of success. Later, you can remove some of the trays – the ones your rabbit uses less often.

Buy litter boxes with low sides for a dwarf rabbit or baby rabbit so he can hop in and out easily. For a larger bunny, use jumbo trays like those for small dogs, or fit the bottom tray of a cage. A covered trough or one with high sides will retain the hay and straw when using this type of bedding. Alternatively, you can use a plastic dog bed that combines high sides with easy access.

It’s a good idea to start with a room, although you want to let your bunny take the lead around the house – if your bunny has too much to explore, he will feel unsafe and forget where the litter boxes are. You can use the kitchen or any other room with a linoleum or wooden floor. If all of your rooms are carpeted, choose a small room so your rabbit is more likely to find the litter boxes.

Place one litter box in your rabbit’s cage or by their bed and another in a corner of the room or between a piece of furniture and the wall. Leave some excrement and a piece of urine-soaked paper in the bowls to give your rabbit an idea. When your bunny hops into the tray, give them lots of praise and maybe give them a treat. Otherwise, gently herd him to the tray or lure him there with a favorite meal.

Your rabbit is more likely to use the litter box if you make it a comfortable place. Put a handful of hay or even their food bowl in a corner. Don’t do things your rabbit doesn’t like or disturb them while they’re in their tray or cage. Try different types of litter to find the one your rabbit prefers. Many rabbits enjoy digging and rolling in their nests, cleaning, or even napping. This is wonderful behavior – if your rabbit enjoys spending time in their litter box, they’re more likely to mark it with urine and feces.

In the early days it is very important to be alert and follow your rabbit everywhere; Rabbits are creatures of habit and once they get used to urinating in the wrong places, it’s harder to stop them from doing it again and again. If you see your rabbit poking its bottom and tail out, it’s usually a sign that it’s about to urinate. When your rabbit is in the tray, wait for them to finish and give them lots of praise and a treat. If your rabbit is not in the tray, say, “No, X” (where X is your rabbit’s name) in a firm voice, but without raising your voice. Then, carefully pick up your rabbit and place them in the litter box. If your bunny doesn’t like being touched, you need to persuade him with a food treat. Never catch or chase your rabbit and then put them in their cage or litter box or you will make this look like punishment. Once your rabbit is in the bowl, give him the treat and lots of praise. Your rabbit can jump out again and pee on the floor. Be patient – throwing practice doesn’t happen in a day! Dogs and cats can also take several weeks or months to become housebroken.

It’s important to say “no” every time your rabbit urinates on the floor (not just occasionally). However, remember to do this immediately after the event, otherwise your rabbit will forget everything, and your words will only upset and confuse him. Needless to say, you should never scold or hit your rabbit, no matter how light it is. This will not help housebreaking and will startle your bunny companion.

Many rabbits prefer to find their own place (behind the sofa, under a chair or table, in a corner of the room) to do their business. Easily move the litter box to where it is needed. Even if it means rearranging a piece of furniture, it’s easier than working against a determined rabbit. Clean the puddle well to remove odors and leave some urine and feces in the bowl. Hopefully this will encourage your rabbit to use the litter box next time.

As your rabbit becomes more reliable, you can gradually give him free rein around the house (one room at a time). It’s a good idea to have a litter box in every room, at least to begin with. When you’re not home or don’t need to supervise him, put your trainee in his cage or keep him in a small uncarpeted room to reduce the number of “accidents.”

What causes urine scalding/dirty bottom in rabbits?

Rabbits are naturally hygienic animals that groom themselves regularly to stay clean and healthy. If your rabbit has developed a dirty bottom or urinary scalds (wet, red, rough skin caused by urine-soaked fur), this is likely a sign that something is wrong. Common causes are:

Dental Disease – Dental disease can make care very difficult and painful (sometimes impossible).

– Dental disease can make care very difficult and painful (sometimes impossible). Improper diet – An improper diet can quickly lead to digestive problems and loose stools. Check out our rabbit feeding guide.

– A poor diet can quickly lead to digestive problems and loose stools. Check out our rabbit feeding guide. Arthritis – Arthritis is a painful condition of the joints that can make grooming very difficult. It can also be painful to move, meaning rabbits who suffer from it are more likely to sit in their own urine.

– Arthritis is a painful condition of the joints that can make grooming very difficult. It can also be painful to move, meaning rabbits who suffer from it are more likely to sit in their own urine. Obesity – Overweight rabbits often have trouble cleaning themselves and tend to be less active/sit in dirty bedding.

– Overweight rabbits often have trouble cleaning themselves and tend to exercise less/sit in dirty bedding. Diarrhea – If your rabbit has diarrhea, they are very likely to develop a dirty bottom, especially if they are too uncomfortable to tend.

– If your rabbit has diarrhea, they are very likely to develop a dirty butt, especially if they are too unwell to care for them. A Dirty Environment – If your rabbit lives in a dirty environment, they will have trouble staying clean and dry.

– If your rabbit lives in a dirty environment, they will have trouble staying clean and dry. Urine Problems – If your rabbit has a urinary problem like an infection or bladder stones, they may start leaking urine and get a urine burn around their rear end.

Dirty, matted fur and urine scalds put your rabbit at risk of further complications like infected skin and fly infestations.

A happy bun has a healthy butt!

Healthy rabbits with a good diet don’t get dirty, sticky butts. They produce two types of feces. First, the more common pellets, which are large, round, and dry, and packed with fiber. The other type of poo is called caecotrophs (or caecal pellets) and is usually eaten by the rabbit straight out of the anus, sounds gross but that’s nature for you!

There are reasons rabbits may not eat all of their caecal pellets and if these get stuck to the fur around their buttocks and belly they can cause serious problems.

Why might rabbits get dirty butts?

diet

A diet with too much sugar or starch leads to digestive problems. Every rabbit’s gut has a very delicate balance and if they eat too many carbohydrates, they are at risk of serious problems. In most rabbits, this results in their caecotrophs being softer and improperly shaped, and instead of being eaten, they will stick to the ground and cause problems. Cut back on carbohydrates to prevent this. If feeding fruit or carrots (they are high in sugar), only give a very small amount as a treat. Half a cube a day is enough. Too many nuggets result in too many caecotrophs being produced and not all being eaten. They can stick to the fur around the rabbit’s bottom and cause other problems. So keep the nuggets to no more than one full egg cup per rabbit per day. Feed nuggets rather than a granola mix so your rabbit gets all the nutrients they need in every serving.

mobility problems

Rabbits with arthritis or back problems will have trouble eating caecotrophs directly from the anus. If your rabbit often gets a dirty butt and you find him having to scoot around to eat caecotrophs off the floor, you should see your vet. Arthritis is more common than people realize. Rabbits will do anything to disguise pain and stiffness, so this may be the only sign you’ll see until your rabbit is in a lot of pain and won’t eat.

injuries

If your rabbit has a hind leg or back injury, it will be difficult or impossible to get to the appendix and the floor will be dirty. You must get Caecotrophe to eat as soon as possible once they are produced. They are an important part of rabbit digestion and must be eaten.

obesity

Overweight rabbits can’t reach their bottoms to eat caecotrophs, and they will get tangled in their fur. Obesity is just as dangerous for rabbits as it is for humans. It puts a strain on the joints, heart and other organs and is a major cause of dirty butts in rabbits. If you’re seeing this, your rabbit’s diet urgently needs to be changed to include unlimited hay and grass, a small amount of green vegetables, and no more than one egg cup full of nuggets a day. As weight is lost, exercising becomes easier and this helps with further weight loss. Better nutrition makes caecotrophs taste better, so your rabbits will want to eat them and can reach them once they’ve lost enough weight.

What can happen if the floor is dirty?

skin problems

When caecotrophs crust up your rabbit’s butt, it becomes very uncomfortable and can become infected. The skin tears and the fur is lost. You must keep the area clean, but wash only as much as necessary and dry as thoroughly as possible to prevent further tearing. Your vet can prescribe a cream to protect the skin, as well as pain medication and possibly antibiotics if an infection is present. It’s important to break the cycle by addressing everything that is causing your rabbit to have a dirty butt, otherwise the problem will only get worse.

Bathe a rabbit butt

by Dana Krempels, Ph.D.

House Rabbit Society of Miami

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If your rabbit has a messy bottom due to loose stools or urine leakage, the most important thing is to determine the cause of the problem, starting with a full examination by your rabbit-experienced vet, including a full dental exam and blood chemistry and cell counts.

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A messy butt is both uncomfortable and unsanitary, inviting worse problems like skin burns and even fly infestations. While your vet does the detective work, it’s up to you to make sure the rabbit is okay. On the one hand, a careful, gentle “butt bath” keeps caustic bodily fluids away from the skin.

There are two methods by which a messy bunny can be safely cleaned, and of the two, a DRY BATH is preferable. If the bunny is extremely dirty and very smelly, a wet bath may be necessary. The instructions for this procedure follow those of the dry bath.

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dry bath process

Purchase a can of baby cornstarch powder (DO NOT use baby powder or any type of powder that contains talc as talc is respiratory irritant and can even be carcinogenic!) from the baby section of the grocery store. You can use either unscented or scented cornstarch powder. DO NOT use commercial flea powder or other pesticides on your rabbit. For the best, safest results, only use baby-safe cornstarch powder. Place the bunny in a comfortable position so that the dirty parts are easily accessible. This may mean laying him on your lap on a rolled up towel to make him feel safe, or simply laying him on the floor in a comfortable position when he’s calm and won’t try to run away. Apply the cornstarch liberally to the soiled areas and gently work the powder into the coat, around messy feces and onto the skin. Gently work the powder around stubborn clumps of dirt. When the cornstarch coats the mess, it slides away easily. Once most of the dirt has been removed, use a soft-tipped brush to gently loosen any remaining dirt and debris. Pat the powdered areas well to remove loose powder.

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Bunny should be clean and fragrant in just minutes! Rabbits generally enjoy a dry bath and sit quietly while the soothing powder takes away the sting of the urine burn.

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wet bath process

If your rabbit’s butt is very messy, wet, and smelly, it may be necessary to give them a wet bath. That’s how it’s done:

Purchase hypoallergenic, non-medicated pet shampoo from your veterinarian or pet supply store. Hy-Lyte is a good choice, but any similar product will work as well. DO NOT USE HUMAN SHAMPOO ON YOUR RABBIT. Rabbit skin is far more delicate and delicate than human skin—especially the scalp. Even baby shampoo is way too harsh and can make the problem worse, not better. Fill a bathroom sink about 2.5 inches deep with lukewarm water. Mix in about a tablespoon of shampoo and mix well. Being firm and gentle to prevent the bunny from jumping and injuring itself, lower its hindquarters into the lukewarm shampoo/water and gently drizzle the solution onto the soiled areas until clean. If the bunny is very messy, you may need to change the water and do this twice. Rinse very thoroughly with lukewarm, clear, running water, leaving NO shampoo residue. Pat dry gently with a towel, being careful not to rub too hard on irritated skin. Blow dry on low and hold your hand close to rabbit skin so you can tell if the airflow is too hot. The last thing you want to do is burn already inflamed skin! When the bunny is fluffy and dry, carefully trim the fur from areas where the skin is irritated. If you can’t see the skin or aren’t sure where the skin ends and the fur begins, *don’t cut it!* Rabbit skin is *very* thin and stretchy, and even a small wound can expand to alarming proportions! Apply a soothing balm, such as calendula (from health food stores) or a triple antibiotic ointment (such as Neosporin, but NOT Neosporin Plus, which contains lidocaine and is not recommended). Repeat as necessary, but do not continue if the rabbit seems overly stressed from the experience. When handling a rabbit, it’s important to be firm, gentle, and ready to release the rabbit at ground level if it starts to fight back violently. As you probably know, a good kick can dislocate or even fracture your spine. Always think rabbit safety *first* when attempting a project like this.

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And remember, the “butt bath” is nothing more than treating a symptom of a larger disorder. The most important thing you need to do is figure out why your rabbit is having urinary incontinence or liquid stool issues and get to the bottom of the ultimate cause for a full cure.

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Back to health information

See Files for Bunnies Bunnies are active animals that can move like a bolt in the right circumstances. Sensitive creatures who crave security, any threat can cause them to move like lightning. Even with the best of intentions, zookeepers can even scare their animal into running away from us. All of this means that a limp rabbit that doesn’t move even when we try to manipulate it means something is wrong. While we may be able to see them breathing, it’s understandable that we worry when they’re about to die. At AnimalWised, we investigate why my rabbit is breathing and not moving. We understand the reasons why the rabbit might be immobile and what we can do to help.

Why isn’t my rabbit moving?

There are many reasons why a rabbit will stop moving, even if it’s still breathing. The first concern is that the rabbit may have a serious illness. Likewise, we also need to know that there are other reasons why a rabbit won’t move. This may be due to environmental situations, accidents, or other contextual issues. If a rabbit isn’t moving but is still breathing, it means it’s alive. However, they may suffer from any of the following conditions: Trauma

Advanced age

paralysis

Emphasize

heatstroke

hypothermia

Pathological Anorexia Whatever the cause of your rabbit becoming limp, it’s important that we take them to a veterinarian. You will likely need to see an exotics vet capable of administering a rabbit. Prompt action is essential in most cases to ensure the rabbit’s welfare.

trauma

Trauma, accidents, falling from a height or being attacked by other animals can cause our rabbit to stop moving. This may be due to the impact and internal damage caused (when no external wounds are visible). Bones can break, causing the rabbit acute pain that makes them immobile but still breathing. If you have seen your rabbit fall or suffer trauma, take him to a veterinarian immediately if he is not moving.

Advanced age

As with all living organisms, a rabbit’s body will wear out with age. This can lead to specific problems such as osteoarthritis. They may also have reduced vitality and energy, which manifests as restricted movement, even when still breathing. Ultimately, the rabbit will spend more time staying static throughout the day. Aging is a progressive development. If you see your rabbit moving less and less as it gets older, that’s natural. However, if your rabbit suddenly stops moving, it means something else is about to happen to him. Take a look at our article on common diseases in rabbits to learn more.

paralysis

Rabbits can become paralyzed for a variety of reasons, which explains why they can breathe but not move. There are three main types of rabbit paralysis: Neurological paralysis: If the rabbit sustains a spinal injury affecting the spinal cord or the peripheral nerves of the extremities, paresis (muscle weakness) or paralysis may result. They are likely to be accompanied by other neurological signs. Pasteurella multocida is a bacterium that can cause encephalitis in rabbits, resulting in secondary paralysis.

: If the rabbit sustains a spinal injury affecting the spinal cord or the peripheral nerves of the extremities, paresis (muscle weakness) or paralysis may result. They are likely to be accompanied by other neurological signs. Pasteurella multocida is a bacterium that can cause encephalitis in rabbits, resulting in secondary paralysis. Nutritional paralysis: If our rabbits do not have a varied and balanced diet to get all the necessary nutrients in the right proportion, they will develop a multitude of problems. They can lead to mineral and vitamin deficiencies that cause the body to shut down. Our article on how much food rabbits should eat will tell you how to avoid this problem. Parasitic paralysis: Parasites that affect rabbits, such as Encephalitozoon cuniculi or Toxoplasma gondii, can cause them to lose mobility in their hind legs. In general, parasitized rabbits have weak immune systems, do not eat properly, and are not dewormed regularly. In addition to the loss of movement, the rabbit may have a bulging, sore, and hard abdomen. To prevent paralysis in rabbits we need to be careful when we pick them up, make sure we don’t drop them, provide a balanced diet and ensure proper deworming. Not picking your rabbit up properly can be one of the reasons why he pees on you when you hold him.

Emphasize

As sensitive animals, rabbits are prone to stress. We must be very careful to avoid situations that can cause fear in the rabbit. If you’ve observed your rabbit breathing but not moving, it could be stress related. We need to look at other stress symptoms in rabbits such as: B. compulsive movements, over-grooming, scratching themselves sore or even self-mutilation. In order to prevent the rabbit from becoming limp, it is important that we take care of our rabbit’s mental well-being. We need to spend time with them and develop a healthy bond. This doesn’t mean forcing interaction (this can be stressful for rabbits), but let them come to you and calm them down. Allow them to feel safe when they are by your side. Also avoid noise, shouting, and frequent changes in routine, diet, or home environment.

heatstroke

Extreme temperatures can increase our rabbits’ body temperature and cause heat stroke. Rabbits suffer when the ambient temperature exceeds 28ºC/82ºF. The high ambient temperature can leave the rabbit stretched out, static, dehydrated and lethargic in addition to more serious signs such as: Red ears

hypersalivation

panting

Weakness

disorientation

Tremble

seizures

shock

Death We can avoid heat stroke by making sure we keep the rabbit in a cool place and carefully monitoring its surroundings.

hypothermia

A rabbit will stop moving if it’s too cold, just like it will if it’s too hot. Although less common, rabbits can suffer from hypothermia. This is when their body temperature drops to the point where their body can no longer function. This is another reason why it is so important to maintain the ambient temperature in their living spaces. If the rabbit’s body temperature falls below 36ºC/96.8ºF they will show some of the following signs: Reduced heart rate

Mydriasis (dilated pupils)

disorientation

lethargy

Dry skin

cold ears

immobility

fainting

collapse

shock

For tips on protecting rabbits during the cold months, see our article on winter rabbit care.

Pathological anorexia

Unlike anorexia as a mental illness, anorexia is a symptom of various pathologies. The rabbit stops eating and loses a significant amount of weight. In its acute phase, the rabbit is also weak, depressed, low on energy, and eventually stops moving. There are many diseases and conditions that can cause a rabbit to develop anorexia, including: Misaligned teeth

myxomatosis

Hemorrhagic Disease

lung infection

parasitosis

pasteurellosis

enterotoxemia

Gastrointestinal Disorders

tumors

Coccidiosis In addition to immobility and loss of appetite, you need to look for other signs of illness in rabbits. These include weakness, weight loss, inflammation, lumps, diarrhea, shortness of breath, cough, fever, runny nose, etc. These may indicate an illness that needs to be diagnosed and treated by a qualified veterinarian.

This article is purely informational. AnimalWised is not authorized to prescribe veterinary treatment or make a diagnosis. We invite you to take your pet to the vet if they are suffering from any discomfort or pain.

If you want to read articles similar to My Rabbit Is Breathing But Not Moving, we recommend you visit our Other Health Issues category.

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Rabbit behavior can change for a variety of reasons. What are the signs that something is wrong?

Rabbits are becoming an increasingly popular family pet — and with good reason. You can be affectionate and attention-grabbing, and easily ingratiate yourself with your personal life. Happy bunnies jump, dance and wriggle in your hearts.

But while bunnies can be quite independent, they do need a keen eye. Rabbit owners need to know what is “normal” for their individual rabbit and be aware of any behavioral changes, no matter how small. Each nuance could indicate a problem that needs to be fixed. This is especially important as rabbits, as prey animals, tend to hide signs of disease. This means that any sign of disease is usually significant.

Is there such a thing as “low mood” in rabbits?

While rabbits do not suffer from mental depression like humans, their behavior can be dampened when they are ill or kept under stressful conditions.

A change in your rabbit’s behavior can indicate many things:

you are lonely

You are in pain or sick

You’re not getting enough exercise

You’re not eating the right things

Their living conditions are not good

They mourn the loss of a companion

The signs of an unhappy rabbit

Rabbit owners are very accustomed to the “tapping” that can indicate a grumpy creature, but if rabbits are acting lethargic, reluctant to move around, and hiding all day, then it can be a cause for concern.

Pay particular attention to any of the following behaviors:

Chew cage bars when kept in a stall

Pulling at their fur and over-grooming—or not grooming at all

A change in diet or toilet habits

Drink a lot more

Repeated circles or pacing

Biting and destructive behavior

A lack of energy and curiosity

Your rabbit’s ears can also be a good indicator. An unhappy rabbit will usually lay its ears back; The further the ears fall back, the unhappier they are.

How to keep rabbits happy

Happy rabbits have lots of energy. They love to run around and play. They are also very social creatures, so spending time with their family members – human and rabbits – is essential to their happiness. If you have any doubts about their behavior, it’s always best to discuss it with your veterinarian or a rabbit expert.

Make sure they have a companion

Companionship is the key to rabbit happiness. If your rabbit lives alone, it could be lonely and bored. Keeping at least two rabbits allows them to entertain each other and doesn’t require as much attention from their human companions.

Make sure they eat well

Rabbits’ digestive systems are complex and delicately balanced, so a poor diet can affect their gut. This, in turn, can make them feel ill and behave in a subdued manner. Make sure your rabbits have plenty of good quality hay to eat throughout the day, as well as a steady supply of leafy greens and other appropriate fresh food.

Make sure you have the right case

If your rabbits are kept outside in a hutch, they will need room to hop, stretch fully and stand on their hind legs. But a stable alone is not enough. You need to make sure your rabbit has time to roam and play, so invest in temporary fencing or a run to give them enough space to stretch out and exercise in the great outdoors.

Make sure they get mental and physical stimulation

Linked to all of the above is the need for stimulation. As social creatures who love to play, rabbits benefit from a rotating toy collection. They’re also incredibly curious little things, so give them puzzles and things to investigate to avoid boredom.

If in doubt, speak to your veterinarian

Rabbits depend on us humans for a large part of their well-being. If you’ve tried these tips and the rabbit still doesn’t feel better, talk to your veterinarian.

Rabbits are usually neat by nature, choosing only one or two spots to urinate. Once it’s obvious where your rabbit prefers to eliminate, place a litter box in that spot.

Setting up the litter box

Choose a pan. Plain plastic litter boxes work best. Unless your rabbit is very small, stick to the medium, large, or giant sized litter boxes. However, you can’t go wrong with a larger litter box that your rabbit can grow into. A giant cat pan can be used for large bunnies (over ten pounds) and mated couples. If you have a pair of bunnies, you can also give them several boxes to provide them with a good supply of hay and fresh bedding.

Add bedding and hay. We recommend using CareFresh (a rabbit-safe pet litter that contains no pine or cedar products) and fresh hay to prepare your rabbit’s litter box. Spread 1 inch of clean CareFresh on the bottom of the pan, then add a large handful of hay. Remember to use rabbit-safe litter in your rabbit’s crate. Clay and clumping cat litter can be dangerous for rabbits because they can ingest some of their litter when eating hay. Pine, cedar, or other aromatic wood chips can also be harmful to your rabbit’s health. Sticking to a simple, recyclable, paper-based litter provides your rabbit with a safe litter and is also kind to the environment.

Keep the box fresh. Rotate your rabbit’s crate every day to ensure a clean, fresh crate. This will prevent your rabbit from going to cleaner places to eliminate. If your rabbit doesn’t completely soil their box within 24 hours, simply add another large handful of hay at the end with the remaining clean hay. Never go more than two days before giving your rabbit a fresh litter box. If the box gets dirty, throw the entire contents in your garden waste bin or regular trash for disposal. If you’re a gardener, the waste from your rabbit’s litter box makes great compost! Wash the box and if urine collects, soak it clean with plain white vinegar.

If you’re having trouble getting your rabbit to use their crate after setting it up this way, try some of these litter box training tips.

Copyright: sandiegorabbits.org.

Environment enrichment enhances the area your rabbit lives in by offering a choice of:

activities

residential areas

feeding possibilities

Socialization.

Environment enrichment aims to improve your rabbit’s quality of life – their well-being.

Enriching the environment includes everything from handling and socializing with other animals, rabbits or humans, to providing toys. Environment enrichment should:

Add variety to your rabbit’s daily life

encourage the expression of natural behaviors.

Environment enrichment is designed to help your rabbit come to terms with their environment. This is especially important if you leave your rabbit alone for long periods of the day (more than 4 hours at a time).

Why is enrichment important for rabbits?

Rabbits are active, curious, social and intelligent animals. Rabbits get bored easily and their welfare suffers as a result. Pet rabbits are often kept caged for a large portion of the time each day. They need control over their environment and what they can do to avoid boredom and stress.

enrichment for rabbits

Enrichment should be tailored to your rabbit’s environment and environment. For example, if you have a small coop or cage, you could build a larger enclosure to open up your coop. This will encourage your rabbit to explore and exercise. A large floor area and high ceiling allow for opportunities for normal behaviors such as:

constantly

Jump

Jump

stand up on hind legs.

Any environmental enrichment should consider the mental and physical stimulation you can give your rabbit. Make sure the materials used are non-toxic and have smooth, rounded edges. All Enrichment items require you to regularly inspect them for damage and possible points of injury. Repair, discard, or replace damaged or hazardous parts.

Ideas for enriching the environment for rabbits include:

Hideouts and platforms in their stable.

Toys and objects for manipulating, examining, encouraging play, and for digging and scent marking. Toys can be purchased at pet stores or online. It’s important to have multiple toys that you spin. Don’t put them all in your rabbit’s hutch or enclosure at once and just leave them there. You will get bored very quickly.

Nutritional Enrichment – ​​Offer food in a way that encourages your rabbits to forage or work. An example might be a treat ball filled with pieces of carrot or other food. Another example could be hiding leafy greens throughout the barn, under hay and in hiding places to encourage them to forage

Positive interactions with people – this includes playing games, grooming your rabbit, and training your rabbit with positive reward-based methods like clicker training.

If you have more than one rabbit, make sure there are enough items for all the rabbits. This will avoid fights or rabbits being lost.

Don’t fill your rabbits’ enclosure with so many activities that they can’t move around easily.

< Back to Index of Behavioral Problems Rabbit Behavior Problem: Bad litter box habits Many rabbit owners have problems with litter training their rabbits. If your rabbit has bad litter box habits, like Rosie and Jim, read on to find out what might be causing the problem and how to fix it. the latrine Wild rabbits use latrine areas for toileting. So when we "scatter" a rabbit, we are simply taking advantage of this natural behavior. Most pet rabbits will choose a corner in an area close to where they are for their latrine, and for litter training, simply place an appropriate tray in that location (tray and litter selection advice). Marking: spraying urine & scattering feces Although rabbits have latrine areas for toileting, they also mark their territory by scattering feces and urine around their home. These stinky messages will warn other rabbits that the territory is theirs and will help their territory smell like them so they feel more at home. The human nose lacks sensitive olfactory receptors to accurately interpret what these messages are saying, but simply put, they mean, "This is mine." The onset of sexual maturity is the trigger for a rabbit to mark its territory. Having your rabbit from a young age often means that your perfectly behaved baby rabbit will suddenly start leaking feces and urine all over the place. If you have a male rabbit, he may start spraying urine up walls or even at you. Males spray females during courtship, and sometimes rabbits express their love for a human mate with a squirt of urine - who needs flowers and chocolate! castration Neutering is essential for good litter habits. Once your rabbit is neutered, they will no longer have as strong an urge to mark their territory, so feces and urine will generally be confined to the latrine area. The first step for anyone attempting to train a rabbit to litter should be spaying - most rabbits will not be 100% housebroken until they are spayed. Male rabbits can be spayed as soon as their testicles drop, which is usually between 12 and 18 weeks, and female rabbits from around six months of age. There is no upper limit as long as your rabbit is healthy. With an experienced rabbit veterinarian, spaying is a routine operation and rescue centers perform thousands of spayings on rabbits each year. It may take a few weeks after surgery for your rabbit's litter habits to improve as it takes time for hormone levels that control territorial behaviors such as marking to decrease. Problems throwing So, you've had your rabbit spayed and placed a tray in your chosen latrine area, but your rabbit doesn't quite get the hang of using it - there are a few common problems: urinating over the side When rabbits urinate, they shuffle back into the corner and raise their tails. If the tray is fairly flat, it may mean that if you've added litter, your rabbit will sit on the edge of the tray if he shuffles back and misses it completely. You can fix this by switching to a tray with high sides - about 15cm/6in is a good depth. dig up garbage Rabbits love to dig, and a whole tray full of soil like litter can seem like the perfect spot for your rabbit. A litter box with a lid/hood, or placing the litter box in a box with an entry hole on the side, will prevent waste from going everywhere. You could also try providing your rabbit with an alternative digging area to swap out their digging activities. Continue to the tray Sometimes rabbits have a rough idea of ​​where to go, but they don't always get into the tray. There may be puddles or droppings right next to it. Again, a high-walled tray is helpful as it allows for a clearer distinction between inside and outside the tray. Also, don't use the same litter in the tub as in other areas, otherwise there will be little difference between the two and your rabbit may feel like the entire cage is a litter box. It's important that your rabbit can recognize the litter box as its toilet area. Many new owners make the mistake of cleaning too thoroughly, removing any scent marks that let their rabbit know this is the right spot. To help your rabbit learn, avoid strong-smelling cleaning supplies and after cleaning, return a small portion of dirty litter to the bowl to retain the right smell. Putting the spilled poo in the bowl and blotting up the urine with a tissue and placing it in the litter box can also help teach your rabbit where to go as you will re-establish the correct smell. Cleaning accidents outside the tray with white vinegar, which is an odor neutralizer, helps ensure that the tray only smells like where you're supposed to go. One final tip, choose a tray that is big enough for your rabbit to turn around easily and has room on one side for a handful of hay - rabbits love to eat and poop, and having hay in the tray is encourages its use. Don't always use the tray If your rabbit isn't spayed, it's likely that he's deliberately spilling feces outside of the bowl to mark his territory - this usually improves after spaying. If your rabbit is still spilling poo after spaying, it may be that they have just gotten used to it and need a little retraining. The same techniques for a rabbit going next to the tray will help. If your rabbit has access to a very large area, e.g. several rooms, it can also help to temporarily restrict access a bit. The provision of multiple trays, i. H. one per room or one at each end of a room can be helpful. If there are certain areas your rabbit prefers, put a tray there, even if it happens to be in the middle of the room. Once your rabbit starts using the trays, you can gradually reduce the number and move them to more convenient locations. It is important that your rabbit gets used to using a tray. Again, moving droppings and providing hay will help encourage their use. Several rabbits Cohabiting neutered rabbits generally share one tray, but if you have trouble, provide two trays (or more). If it's a recent match, you might find that once they've had more time to settle in, they're more willing to share. Rabbits will often mark more when they are first introduced and will do less as they settle down. If you have multiple rabbits but they don't live together, you may find that your rabbit has left tracks even after spaying, particularly at the boundaries between pens. This is because there is a rival and they feel the need to make it very clear where their territory is. Placing an extra tray along the border may help as this may be enough to satisfy her desire to spread her scent. sofas & beds There are some spots that seem particularly tempting for rabbits to mark, and some rabbits will continue to mark these even when they are neutered and otherwise perfectly litter trained. The most common areas are beds and sofas - these are areas that humans spend a lot of time resting on, meaning they contain a lot of smell for a rabbit. This may be a trigger for rabbits to add their own scent markers. It can be difficult to teach a rabbit not to mark these areas. It can be helpful to temporarily put an extra litter box in the area where your rabbit picks up the toilet—even if it's not a place you would normally place a litter box, such as in a bedroom. B. the seat of your sofa. If you can train your rabbit to use a tray on your couch instead of the couch, you can gradually move the tray to a more appropriate spot. If that doesn't work, restricting access may be the only solution. It is very difficult to train a rabbit not to jump onto a sofa they are used to, so a physical barrier may be needed. If this isn't practical, you can protect your furniture by placing something over the area to protect it, e.g. B. a dog pad or a plastic cover, although this does not solve the problem. lose throwing practice As I mentioned earlier, it is common for a rabbit to lose their throwing training when they reach sexual maturity if they are not spayed. There are also several other reasons why a previously well-behaved rabbit may go to the toilet outside of the tray: New Territory - Rabbits will mark more when their territory changes, such as moving to a new home, getting a new cage, or redecorating you. Normally, this marking behavior will generally settle down over the next few weeks as they adjust to the change. - Rabbits will mark more when their territory changes, for example when they move to a new home, get a new cage or redecorate you. Normally, this marking behavior will generally settle down over the next few weeks as they adjust to the change. New Household Member - Adding a new rabbit or other pet to the household can also result in an increase in the rating. This is common when introducing your rabbit to a companion. Again, it will decrease as your rabbit gets used to the change. Unless the other pet is a new companion, your rabbit may continue to mark more, especially along borders. - The introduction of a new rabbit or other pet into the household can also increase the tag. This is common when introducing your rabbit to a companion. Again, it will decrease as your rabbit gets used to the change. Unless the other pet is a new companion, your rabbit may continue to mark more, especially along borders. A health issue - some health issues like a bladder infection, kidney stones and pain or mobility issues affecting your rabbit's ability to access his tray can cause your rabbit to lose his throwing practice. Visit your veterinarian for an exam if there is a sudden change in your rabbit's litter habits. - Some health issues like a bladder infection, kidney stones and pain or mobility issues affecting your rabbit's ability to access his tray can cause your rabbit to lose his throwing practice. Visit your veterinarian for an exam if there is a sudden change in your rabbit's litter habits. Other Changes - Many other changes can affect your rabbit's marking, for example using a new cleaning product can confuse his sense of smell and encourage additional marking. When your rabbit starts marking, try to think of any changes you've made to your rabbit or your household routine. Tagging can help a rabbit feel safe, so a little excitement or stress can be a trigger. Conclusion In summary, castration is an important part of litter training. If your rabbit isn't spayed, chances are you won't get perfect results. Make sure the tray is big and deep so your rabbit has plenty of space. If your rabbit has bad litter box habits, then: Make sure there is a clear distinction between the tablet and everything else After cleaning, return a little used litter to the bowl to keep the smell Transfer accidents to the compartment Place the tray where your rabbit goes - you can always adjust the position later Temporarily increase the number of bowls - especially if your rabbit has access to a large area or multiple rooms Check out the answers to more behavior problems Did this article help you understand your rabbit's behavior? If so, you might want to try my book: Understanding Your Rabbit's Habits

A hutch and food alone is not enough for a baby or an adult rabbit. You also need to make sure your rabbit is feeling warm, safe, and comfortable. The provision of the appropriate substrate thus contributes significantly to achieving this goal. The best bedding for rabbits can help keep your pet healthier for longer.

A rabbit’s bedding needs to keep them safe, comfortable, and warm. Rabbits often eat their litter, so it can’t be poisonous. Shredded paper, shredded aspen, specialty bedding, or pellets and hay are safe options.

Bedding is more than just the choice of material. You’ll need to change it regularly, so factor the cost into the equation. Of course it’s worth it if your rabbit is happy and comfortable.

Do rabbits need bedding in their coop?

When a rabbit is tired enough, it will sleep anywhere. Once a rabbit has enjoyed a long exercise or playtime, it will often roll over and fall asleep on the spot.

Despite this, it is advisable to arrange bedding for a rabbit. While a rabbit is sleeping, they need to feel safe and secure. In addition, their body temperature drops.

Rabbits nap frequently, but they typically enjoy a long, uninterrupted 8-hour nap. This will be between the afternoon and early evening. They also sleep at night when it is cooler. Linens keep them comfortable on both occasions.

Linens are not essential. Many rabbits are just as happy to sleep on a haystack in their coop. However, litter helps a rabbit create special zones in its hutch. This appeals to their territorial character.

A rabbit will also learn that bedding is for sleeping, not for excretion. This reduces the risk of them lying in their urine or feces. Rabbits can become uncomfortable with prolonged exposure to their own waste. It can also cause the color of rabbit fur to turn yellow.

Do rabbits need a special bedroom to sleep in?

It is advisable to set up a special sleeping area in the rabbit hutch. If your rabbit has dedicated sleeping and defecating areas, they will be more comfortable.

A rabbit has its main sleep in the late afternoon and early evening. This is because rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they are most likely around dusk and dawn.

While a rabbit tries to rest, the world keeps spinning. The sun is shining, traffic noise fills their ears and owners are coming home from work or school. All of these can disrupt your pet’s sleep.

A box turned on its side makes the perfect bedroom for a bunny. This provides your rabbit with a dark, warm, and quiet place to close their eyes. They are also shielded and enclosed, which makes a rabbit feel safe. Here is some information on whether rabbits need the dark to sleep.

Also remember that wild rabbits sleep underground. This arrangement reflects the conditions of an enclosure. This appeals to your pet’s natural instincts.

If you can provide your rabbit with proper bedding, they will be more comfortable in this place. This will encourage them to sleep well. This, in turn, makes for a happy, healthy pet rabbit.

Do rabbits eat their bedding?

A rabbit eats everything. Rabbits chew to explore, have fun and file their teeth. This must be taken into account when choosing bed linen.

Don’t give your rabbit any bedding that will block their intestines. This means anything that could possibly expand in their stomach. Toxic materials are a strict no-go.

The occasional biting of litter is okay – it’s just a rabbit’s nature. However, step in if eating sheets becomes a compulsion. They can make you sick quickly.

The easiest way to prevent your rabbit from eating their litter is to offer alternatives. Chew toys are an important part of any rabbit hutch.

They can throw more hay into their house. Rabbits can eat as much hay as they like with no ill effects.

What makes a good rabbit bedding?

Choosing the right bedding for your rabbit requires a few considerations. First of all, every rabbit has different needs. These are based on their age and unique personality.

However, some things are universal when it comes to rabbit bedding. When choosing a material, consider the following:

comfort . Rabbits like soft materials.

. Rabbits like soft materials. Distinction . Your rabbit’s bedding should be different from the bedding. This avoids confusion about where to sleep and where to eliminate.

. Your rabbit’s bedding should be different from the bedding. This avoids confusion about where to sleep and where to eliminate. absorbency . Rabbits don’t sweat very much, certainly not like humans. However, you can have an accident related to the bathroom. This requires absorbent bedding.

. very, certainly not like humans. However, you can have an accident related to the bathroom. This requires absorbent bedding. Security . Rabbits seek comfort from a variety of materials that are harmful to them. Make sure their litter is safe if they eat or breathe it.

. Rabbits seek comfort from a variety of materials that are harmful to them. Make sure their litter is safe if they eat or breathe it. flexibility . No matter how hard you try, you’ll never get your rabbit’s bedding just right. Make sure your rabbit can move it.

. No matter how hard you try, you’ll never get your rabbit’s bedding just right. Make sure your rabbit can move it. temperature . A rabbit’s body temperature drops while it sleeps. However, they cannot get too hot. You need a material that balances these requirements.

. A rabbit’s body temperature drops while it sleeps. However, they cannot get too hot. You need a material that balances these requirements. Fun . Rabbits get bored easily. Being able to make their bed or build a nest gives them something to do. Choose a material that allows this.

. Rabbits get bored easily. Being able to make their bed or build a nest gives them something to do. Choose a material that allows this. Environmental friendliness. Try to choose a material that is compostable or biodegradable.

These are the general things to consider when choosing rabbit bedding. Rabbits are different stages of life but have different needs. You should adjust your pet’s bedding accordingly.

What is the best bedding for baby rabbits?

Finding the right bedding for young rabbits is crucial to their health. A rabbit younger than six months will still have its baby fur. That means they need to be kept warm.

Until your rabbit is fully grown, use cozy bedding that will maintain a constant body temperature. This must never fall below 101 degrees Fahrenheit. Since a baby rabbit sleeps more, it also needs to be comfortable.

Absorbency is also crucial for young rabbits. Until they learn to control their bladders, baby bunnies will pee on command. Training a young rabbit to throw is difficult because they have such a short attention span.

This means that you will have to endure a lot of bedding before your rabbit is an adult. Keep this in mind when choosing bed linen. Otherwise it could be an expensive six months.

What is the best bedding for adult rabbits?

A healthy adult rabbit doesn’t need as many specific considerations. You will be at a comfortable temperature and comfortable.

That doesn’t mean you can take the decision lightly. Your rabbit may be attracted to material that is unsafe for him.

When choosing bedding for an adult rabbit, you should prioritize personality. Some rabbits have more specific needs than others.

What is the best bedding for senior rabbits?

An older rabbit will likely spend a lot of time in bed. Their thirst for adventure and exercise diminishes with age. That means comfort should be your priority.

Older rabbits can also struggle with arthritis. This means that you should make your bedding as soft as possible. Unfortunately, by the age of 6, a rabbit can develop arthritis. The Rabbit Welfare Association further addresses this common issue.

A mobility-impaired rabbit can still live a full, happy life. Just don’t expect them to be as flexible as they used to be. Soft bedding is a must.

An older rabbit may have a weaker immune system. Disease can have drastic consequences. This means you should avoid potential irritants in their bedding and keep them warm.

What do rabbits like to sleep on?

Rabbits are animals that enjoy comfort. Don’t be fooled if your rabbit sleeps on hard, cold tiles.

A rabbit can comfort lying on your kitchen floor when it overheats. However, they prefer a cozy, comfortable bed overall. Bedding options your rabbit will enjoy include:

Shredded Paper. Plain plain paper fed through a shredder is best. That way, your rabbit doesn’t eat any potentially toxic ink.

. Plain plain paper fed through a shredder is best. That way, your rabbit doesn’t eat any potentially toxic ink. cellulose . This inexpensive, readily available material is popular with all small animals.

. This inexpensive, readily available material is popular with all small animals. aspen . Aspen shreds are soft and absorbent. This bedding is ideal for incontinent bunnies who may have a sleeping accident.

. Aspen shreds are soft and absorbent. This bedding is ideal for incontinent bunnies who may have a sleeping accident. hay . Most rabbits sleep on hay. Be careful as they may mistake their bedding for bedding.

. Most rabbits sleep on hay. Be careful as they may mistake their bedding for bedding. rabbit litter. You could fill your rabbit’s bed with special rabbit litter. This can confuse them. If your rabbit has a litter box, use a different litter there.

. You could fill your rabbit’s bed with special rabbit litter. This can confuse them. If your rabbit has a litter box, use a different litter there. pellets . You can buy bedding pellets for your rabbit. However, these are expensive, so use them sparingly. Mix them up with some of the options above.

. You can buy bedding pellets for your rabbit. However, these are expensive, so use them sparingly. Mix them up with some of the options above. An old towel. If you don’t want to spend money on bed linen, you can fold up an old towel. Just make sure your rabbit isn’t chewing on the material and choking on it. Read this guide to the substances rabbits shouldn’t chew.

What should never be used as rabbit litter?

What rabbits like to sleep on is one thing. What rabbits should sleep on is another, more important question.

Survival instincts drive rabbits, but they sometimes make questionable decisions. Some materials rabbits like are dangerous. Never use these rabbit bedding materials:

Cat litter . Cat litter is soft and comfortable. However, it can be fatal if swallowed. Also, cat litter is dusty. This dust damages the sinuses of rabbits.

. Cat litter is soft and comfortable. However, it can be fatal if swallowed. Also, cat litter is dusty. This dust damages the sinuses of rabbits. Straw . Hay is fine, but straw is irritating to many rabbits. It can also stain and dye their fur.

. Hay is fine, but straw is irritating to many rabbits. It can also stain and dye their fur. sawdust . Small animals love to sleep on sawdust as it is so soft. Unfortunately, it also irritates a rabbit’s eyes and nose. Rabbits like to lie on sawdust, but it’s best avoided.

. Small animals love to sleep on sawdust as it is so soft. Unfortunately, it also irritates a rabbit’s eyes and nose. Rabbits like to lie on sawdust, but it’s best avoided. Cardboard . Rabbits like to chew on cardboard. However, it is difficult to digest. Using cardboard as bedding will encourage a rabbit to eat them.

. Rabbits like to chew on cardboard. However, it is difficult to digest. Using cardboard as bedding will encourage a rabbit to eat them. Pine and cedar wood shavings. While aspen is safe, pine and cedar are just the opposite. These materials will seriously damage a rabbit’s liver and cause breathing problems.

. While aspen is safe, pine and cedar are just the opposite. These materials will seriously damage a rabbit’s liver and cause breathing problems. Generic wood chips. If bedding is labeled as wood shavings, there’s no way of knowing what’s inside. This can lead to serious health problems.

. If bedding is labeled as wood shavings, there’s no way of knowing what’s inside. This can lead to serious health problems. Newspaper. Rabbits like to eat paper. Most newspapers now use soy-based edible ink. However, some cheap inks are poisonous to rabbits. It’s safer to avoid newspaper altogether.

Just because a rabbit likes to sleep on a material doesn’t make it safe. Always play it safe when preparing rabbit bedding.

What is the ideal rabbit bed?

In addition to bedding, you may want to invest in a special bed for your pet. Aside from the towel discussed earlier, there are several options.

Wooden beds for rabbits are available. These fit snugly in your rabbit’s hutch. These are basically doll beds, so only suitable for smaller, lighter rabbits. On the bright side, they’re never mistaken for a litter box.

Some rabbits like to sleep in a hammock. These beds double as toys and jungle gyms. However, it is difficult to get bedding into a hammock. Only use this option if your rabbit doesn’t like softness.

Grass mats and beds are popular choices for some rabbits. They replicate the feeling of wild sleeping and eliminate the need for bedding. Spoiled rabbits won’t like that.

We have baskets and fabric beds. These are warm and soft so your rabbit will love them. If your rabbit has a free hand around the house, they are ideal. However, they are usually too large for all but the largest stable.

Assess your rabbit’s needs and desires and select a bed based on these. The right place to sleep can make all the difference for a rabbit.

Do rabbits need blankets and pillows?

Since rabbits enjoy comfort, you may want to provide blankets and pillows. This is especially likely in winter. You have to be careful though, as rabbits can easily overheat.

If you offer your rabbit a blanket, make sure it’s secure. That means:

Never give a rabbit a blanket with holes. The small paws of a rabbit get caught in these gaps. This causes stress and anxiety.

Don’t wrap a rabbit too tightly in a blanket. This can make it difficult for them to breathe. A rabbit will also panic if it feels trapped.

Don’t give a rabbit a blanket that is too dense. Rabbits get a thicker coat in winter. This keeps rabbits warm in temperatures of up to 32 degrees Fahrenheit. A rabbit who is too hot will become stressed and uncomfortable.

at temperatures of up to 32 degrees Fahrenheit. A rabbit who is too hot will become stressed and uncomfortable. Your rabbit will chew on a blanket. This means they always pose a choking hazard.

Rabbits like to wrap themselves in a warm, soft blanket. However, this is best done under supervision while your rabbit is relaxing with you.

Most rabbits don’t need pillows either. A rabbit’s ideal sleeping position is with their head flat on the floor. Elevation can cause neck pain in a rabbit. If the bed linen is sufficiently soft, a pillow is not necessary.

My rabbit keeps peeing on his bedding

If your rabbit is using its litter as a toilet, there are three possible explanations.

They mistake their bedding for rabbit litter

They feel insecure and mark the bed as their territory

You are stressed or otherwise unwell. This can be a mental or physical illness

If your rabbit can’t tell the difference between bedding and litter, switch one of them up. The materials are too similar. It is unsafe for a rabbit to sleep in puddles of its urine.

If your rabbit is territorial, ask why. When two rabbits share closeness, they can still engage in a war of attrition over who is the alpha.

Your rabbit can even assert dominance over you. They smell you on the sheets while you put them there. Play with your bunny and take care of it more. They will stop seeing you as a rival and feel confident that they are in charge.

Alternatively, if your bunny hasn’t been spayed or neutered, that’s a likely explanation. Rabbits calm down significantly after this process. They are much less likely to tag their domain.

Stress or illness must be managed. Rabbits don’t like change, which might explain their fear. If they behave strangely, such as B. biting or isolating, consult a veterinarian.

What is the best bedding for odor control?

Rabbits don’t sweat. They also keep themselves clean, so body odor is rarely a problem. However, urine is a different story.

Rabbit urine smells extremely strong. If your rabbit has relieved itself in its sleep, you will know. The absorbency only goes so far.

It’s not just her bed that can smell, either. Rabbit hutches generally have a distinct aroma. Odor-controlled bedding can reduce this.

If you don’t want to constantly clean your rabbit hutch, check out such a product. Different materials and brands can provide odor control. However, aspen flakes or shredded paper are usually the most effective.

Hay tends to absorb odors and needs to be changed regularly. Rabbit litter masks odors, but don’t use a scented brand. These are sometimes toxic if ingested.

You will know when a rabbit litter offers odor control because it will be labeled on the packaging. Green Pet Aspen Supreme Pellets, Yesterday’s News, and Carefresh Complete Bedding are good examples. How to train your rabbit in a hutch.

How long does rabbit litter last?

Changing rabbit bedding is a balancing act. You want to keep your rabbit’s hutch clean. However, they draw comfort from familiar scents. Changing bedding too often causes stress in rabbits.

As a general rule, try to change your rabbit’s bedding about twice a week. This does not have to be part of a full barn cleaning. It just fills in that important area.

If your rabbit sleeps on hay, it will need to be changed more often. Rabbits eat their hay all day long. If they sleep in the same area, there is a risk of mold growth.

You should also check the bed linen regularly every day. Soiled litter should be removed immediately. Never let rabbits wallow in their own feces. This can lead to scalding of the urine.

How much is rabbit litter?

This depends on what material you are using and how often it needs to be changed. An old towel is free and can last for years. It just needs frequent trips through the wash. Bed linen must be bought regularly.

Specialty rabbit litter or pellets are expensive types of bedding. They also offer the most benefits in terms of absorbency and odor control. Plain paper is easy to obtain. If you have a shredder, shredded paper may be the cheapest option.

Hay is theoretically an inexpensive option. You can buy large quantities of hay at very reasonable prices. You have to be willing to change it more often.

Before you commit to buying rabbit litter from a pet store, do some research. You can often find cheaper prices online. You should also check out farm shops, which may offer cheaper prices.

Is rabbit bedding compostable?

Almost any rabbit bedding you buy at a pet store is compostable. You should always pay attention to this when choosing bed linen.

The good news is that rabbit poop is also compostable. Since they are vegetarian, rabbit droppings are not harmful to the environment. However, avoid a compost heap containing more than 25% rabbit droppings.

When it’s time to dispose of your rabbit litter, simply push it onto the compost heap. It’s that simple. You’ll keep your pet happy while helping the environment.

The bedding that a rabbit needs to thrive depends on many factors. When it comes to choosing the right material, find something that works for both of you.

Your rabbit needs bedding that is comfortable, warm, and safe in. You need to find bedding that fits your budget and schedule. If you can’t change linens too often, keep this in mind.

You will know what works for your rabbit by his reaction. If your rabbit finds their bedding uncomfortable, they will sleep elsewhere. In such a situation, try something else. Eventually you will find the ideal formula.

tips

Wondering how to train your new bunny companion in the litter box? Are your rabbits’ previously untouched litter box habits getting worse? Has your bunny decided your whole house is his litter box now?

First determine if the reason could be medical, perhaps a bladder infection. A visit to your rabbit’s veterinarian may be necessary to diagnose a urinary tract disorder.

how old is your rabbit Don’t expect a baby bunny to be litter box trained. That would be like expecting a newborn baby to be accustomed to the toilet. Their bladder control increases as they mature. Be patient with very young, unchanged rabbits.

Is your rabbit spayed or neutered? When rabbits reach 4-6 months of age, their hormones kick in and they usually start “marking” their territory. If you spay or neuter your rabbit, they will be more likely to use the litter box and be a happier, healthier, and calmer rabbit.

Decrease liberty and increase litter boxes. Don’t give your rabbit complete freedom in the house. If you restrict his freedom and increase the size of the litter box, you increase his chances of making it to the litter box. Keep two or more litter boxes outside the cage and one inside the cage. As his habits improve, you can take off a litter box or two. If you have more than one rabbit, you may see less control and more markings. If slips occur, start with shorter periods of freedom and more litter boxes.

Keep litter boxes clean. Rabbits are very clean creatures. A smelly, dirty litter box could cause your rabbit to choose another place to do his business, sometimes right outside the crate. Depending on the number of rabbits and litter boxes, clean the litter boxes at least every other day. Once a week is NOT enough!

Spray litter boxes with white vinegar to clean and deodorize. Soak pans if urine has accumulated, then rinse clean. Do not use chemicals. If your rabbit has left marks in an area, blot the urine and dab white vinegar or a commercial enzyme deodorant to neutralize the odor. Don’t leave the smell behind or it might be encouraged to revisit. Hydrogen peroxide works well for this as well and will not harm the color of your carpet or upholstery fabrics.

Try a different throw. The San Diego House Rabbit Society suggests one of the many organic paper litter available. Sometimes the strong smell of litter keeps the bunny out of the box. Avoid pine and cedar shavings and clay cat litter. Also try a good amount of fresh hay in the box. This will usually entice your rabbit to climb into the crate. You can also put some of his droppings in the box.

Be consistent. Get your rabbit into a daily routine and try not to vary it. Rabbits take a lot of getting used to and once a routine is established they usually prefer to stick with it. Routines make learning easier.

Adapt to the stubborn rabbit. If your rabbit keeps going to a far corner of his crate, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room, move his crate to the area he has chosen. He’s already decided where he wants his box and it’s a lot easier to comply than trying to work against a determined rabbit!

Not sure how to put together a bunny-friendly litter box? Learn what to use and how to put everything together to ensure successful litter training for your rabbit by visiting our litter box setup page.

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setup

Not sure how to set up a bunny-friendly litter box? Learn the basics below and help your rabbit on their way to successful litter box training.

Plastic cat pan

Plain plastic litter boxes work best for rabbit litter boxes. They come in small, medium, large, and giant sizes and can be found at stores like Target, Wal-Mart, and Kmart for a nominal price. We recommend sticking with the medium, large, or giant litter boxes for most rabbits, unless your rabbit is very small. However, you can’t go wrong with a larger litter box that your rabbit can grow into. The choice of pan size depends on the size of your rabbit.

Medium cat pan for small bunnies under 4 pounds.

Large cat pan for medium bunnies under 10 pounds.

Giant Cat Pan for large bunnies over 10lbs or tied pairs.

If you have a pair of bunnies that share the same litter box, you should get a very large box or give the bunnies several boxes so they are well supplied with hay and fresh bedding.

Setting up the litter box

We recommend using CareFresh and fresh hay to prime your rabbit’s litter box. CareFresh is a rabbit-safe pet litter that contains no pine or cedar products and is also environmentally friendly. Fresh hay in the box entices the bunny to jump in and do its “business”.

A clean box with about an inch of clean CareFresh on the bottom.

Next add a LARGE handful of hay. Here we sprinkled some grass hay over the CareFresh and then added a nice bundle of oat hay to the ‘kitchen’ end of the box, giving Bunny a combination of oats and grass hay to munch on.

About 12 hours later here is a well used box. You can see that Bunny has created a “bathroom” end and a “kitchen” end (the end with clean hay remaining).

Keep a fresh box

Change the bunny crate frequently to ensure a clean, fresh crate. This will prevent the rabbit from going to cleaner places to eliminate. If your rabbit doesn’t completely soil his box within 24 hours, simply add another large handful of hay to the “kitchen” to replenish his supply. But never go more than two days before giving the rabbit a fresh litter box.

When they get dirty, empty the entire contents of the box into your “garden waste” container or regular trash for disposal. (If you’re a gardener, Bunny’s litter box waste makes great compost!) Wash the box, and if urine builds up, pour in some plain white vinegar to soak it clean. Rinse, wipe dry, then add new CareFresh and hay.

CareFresh and Fresh Packed Hay can be easily purchased throughout San Diego County.

Bunnies enjoy their litter boxes

Once introduced and used to receiving fresh hay in a clean box, your bunny will love it! He’ll nibble on hay almost 24 hours a day – essential for a good rabbit digestion – and can even dig under it to look for the best bits.

This bunny loves to dig under his hay!

Two companion rabbits share their litter box.

Finally, it’s important to remember to use rabbit-safe litter in your bunny’s crate. Clay or clumping cat litter can be dangerous for rabbits, who may ingest some of their litter when eating hay. Pine, cedar or other aromatic wood shavings can also be harmful to the rabbit’s health. Sticking to a simple, recyclable, paper-based litter provides the rabbit with a safe litter that is also environmentally friendly.

If after setting up your rabbit’s litter box this way you’re still having trouble with the rabbit using their litter box, try some of our litter box training tips. You can also email us at [email protected].

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special needs

If you have a rabbit with special needs; someone who has a disability or is elderly and does not have easy access to a typical litter box, these special low entry or custom crates may be just the thing to help your rabbit maintain their litter box skills.

A simple cut up litter box

The simplest solution can often be to simply cut off the side of a standard, rectangular litter box. Be sure to cover the raw edges with a cord covering, thick tape, or something else to prevent the bunny from being cut or scratched. This makes it easier for rabbits to access the litter box when they are stiff, sore, or have mobility issues.

Low-entry dog ​​toilet

These can be harder to find these days since manufacturers have stopped making them. Caregivers of disabled rabbits have to get more creative in finding replacements for these boxes. If you can get your hands on one, stay tuned! They’re scarce, but they work very well. UPDATE: These boxes are available now from San Diego HRS: 4807 Mercury Street, Suite A, Wednesday through Friday, 12pm to 5:30pm, Saturday 11am to 5pm. and Sundays, 12pm to 4pm 858-565-2869 – We are currently accepting online orders for pickup and shipping. Please visit our store here: SDHRS Online Bunny Store

Purina Second Nature dog toilet

Purina “Second Nature” Large Dog Toilet. This is a show with a pelleted infill material in it, but you can use anything. These are ideal for larger rabbits or bonded pairs.

Planters for the table

These new bins work just like a low step litter box and have been helpful for older rabbits or bunnies that need a lower step to get into the box rather than jumping over a high side. These are available from Amazon. Remember to shop through smile.amazon.com and choose the San Diego Companion Rabbit Society as your nonprofit organization to benefit from your purchases.

For housing information and ideas for special needs (disabled) bunnies go to http://www.specialbunny.org/special-needs-housing/

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Safe materials

Teaching a rabbit to use a litter box is fairly easy, and often saves Thumper from being relegated to the backyard. Teaching your rabbit to use a litter box will also make your clean-up job easier. However, choosing the best litter box setup can take some homework. As rabbits become more popular as pets, litter boxes designed for rabbits are becoming more common in the pet market as well. We hope this trend will encourage people to keep their pet rabbits indoors.

First the litter box…

In general, bigger is better in litter boxes. Rabbits prefer to hop in and play around, eat hay and do their business. Making Thumper’s litter box comfortable will encourage him to use the box as intended. Before purchasing a litter box, make sure your cage and cage door are large enough to accommodate the rabbit’s crate and water and food bowls.

Plastic litter boxes: These come in a variety of sizes and colors and are easy to keep clean with white vinegar. They can be adapted for a rabbit by filling them with non-toxic bedding, placing a large handful of fresh hay in one end of the box and letting Thumper do the rest. Rabbits tend to enjoy this basic facility and use it with ease. You can place the same box outside the cage or use a covered litter box if your rabbit likes to dig in their box. The cover helps keep the litter in the box, but be sure to clean the box daily as you will not be able to see immediately how dirty the box has become and the odor can be amplified in the closed area.

Large Bus Boy Tubs: Available from Smart & Final or other restaurant supply stores, these large gray trays are made of hard plastic, are easy to clean, and are a spacious size for larger buns or more than one rabbit.

New to the market are the high corner litter boxes: cage manufacturers developed these because they help make a small litter box more friendly. These litter boxes usually work well for baby bunnies or small breeds. Note: If your cage can’t accommodate a litter box, consider purchasing a larger cage for Thumper if he spends several hours a day in the cage (we recommend 36″ wide x 24″ deep and 20-24″ tall). .

Custom litter boxes: Some people modify their crates by adding a metal urinal to the back end of the crate. This will prevent Thumper from spraying urine into the cage or onto your floors or walls. KW Cages in Santee can provide urine protection for your litter box or cage. KW Cages also stock their specially designed metal litter boxes with a raised wire floor grid and three sides of urine protection. These litter boxes are especially good for angora rabbits as their fur tends to catch anything, including hay and litter. This design lifts the rabbit out of the litter and helps keep it cleaner. These crates are also good for rabbits who dig a lot as they can’t reach the litter underneath. Some rabbits have an aversion to the wire floor in this litter box, so be ready to try a different design in case your rabbit doesn’t use this type of box.

Purina Now Offers a Large Dog Toilet: These roomy, heavy plastic bowls are also great for rabbits. They also have a low entry page.

Square litter box with high back and one low side: Good for rabbits with arthritis or other conditions that make it difficult to hop into a crate. You can also use a utility knife to cut off one side of a regular litter box and cover the rough edges with split clear plastic tubing like you might use for bunny proof wires. Another option for sick rabbits is just a layer of faux lambswool or sheepskin to drain urine. It is important to keep these special needs rabbits clean and dry.

Below in the box: litter comparisons

There are far more bedding options available today than there were a few years ago. Each litter has a different absorption rate, weight, smell, and tracking ability. Since rabbits tend to nibble on everything and can easily breathe in the dust, it’s important to choose a non-toxic product. Over the years we’ve learned that there can be health risks associated with prolonged use of pine and cedar shavings – and neither are very absorbent as bedding – so we encourage you to try one of the many new bedding being developed for use with became rabbits. We are pleased to announce that manufacturers are now providing us with many new innovative products.

Courtesy of BunnyBytes – thanks Kathy and Steve! – We were able to test several bedding products on nurse rabbits. Here’s what we discovered.

Aspen Supreme Pellet Litter: This pellet litter had a “woody” odor, but it wasn’t strong or objectionable. The pellets are compostable and can be flushed out in small amounts. Although heavy, we found this pellet litter to be very good at controlling odor and also very absorbent. The pellets are dark in color so it took a little getting used to, but this litter performed very well. Kathy from BunnyBytes reminds us that to keep bunny boxes fresh and clean we need to remember to maintain a regular cleaning schedule as these pellets are also good at keeping odors down.

Aspen Wood Particles: This planed wood product looks similar to pine shavings, but is made from aspen wood. Although the wood particles were relatively absorbent, they stuck to most rabbit butts, spreading the litter throughout the house. Not a great option – there’s enough hay to clean it up as is! This bedding is also recommended as bedding for rats and guinea pigs.

EcoFRESH: Manufactured by Absorption Corporation, makers of CareFRESH, this litter looks and feels like clay, but it’s not. This litter is made from recycled paper. It is absorbent and virtually dust-free. A nice feature of this litter is that some rabbit droppings can be sifted out like you would with kitty litter.

CareFRESH: Still one of the best litters available for paper products. Made from paper pulp and dust free, this litter is non-toxic, highly absorbent and flushable in small amounts. It makes a great compost when mixed with hay and rabbit droppings.

Clay litter: Although cheap, clay litter can be dusty and encourage digging in the litter box. There are also more absorbent litters on the market. In addition, it could be fatal if the rabbit were to ingest this litter.

DO NOT use clumping litter for rabbits. This litter clumps when exposed to moisture and cannot distinguish between external and internal moisture. Rabbits tend to nibble on everything, and if they ingest clumping litter they risk a potentially fatal intestinal obstruction.

Corn on the cob: Relatively absorbent but very light and tends to be tracked and easily thrown out of the litter box.

Cat Country: Made primarily from plant fibers, this pelleted litter is both absorbent and biodegradable.

Feline Pine: Oven-dried pine shavings, without aromatic hydrocarbons. Liquid waste is absorbed by these pellets, which swell and become wet sawdust.

Oxbow Pure Comfort bed linen

Paper shreds: Layers of newspaper and paper shreds covered with hay can be used in the litter box, but we’ve found this can tempt rabbits to ingest large amounts of paper. Rabbits also love to get a hold of the paper and make a big mess. Economical and a great way to use the messages again, shredded paper may or may not work well depending on your rabbit’s habits.

Choosing the right litter box and litter for your rabbit will depend on the products you can find, as well as your rabbit’s activity level and unique needs. Sometimes it’s helpful to test out the different products and we hope we’ve given you something to ‘food for thought’!

Found a great new cat litter product or litter box training tip? Let us know so we can share!

Buy litter box products online

SDHRS: 4807 Mercury Street, Suite A, Wednesday through Friday, 12:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. 858-565-2869 – Currently taking online Accepting orders for pickup and shipping. Please visit our store here: SDHRS Online Bunny Store

Rabbits are usually neat by nature, choosing only one or two spots to urinate. Once it’s obvious where your rabbit prefers to eliminate, place a litter box in that spot.

Setting up the litter box

Choose a pan. Plain plastic litter boxes work best. Unless your rabbit is very small, stick to the medium, large, or giant sized litter boxes. However, you can’t go wrong with a larger litter box that your rabbit can grow into. A giant cat pan can be used for large bunnies (over ten pounds) and mated couples. If you have a pair of bunnies, you can also give them several boxes to provide them with a good supply of hay and fresh bedding.

Add bedding and hay. We recommend using CareFresh (a rabbit-safe pet litter that contains no pine or cedar products) and fresh hay to prepare your rabbit’s litter box. Spread 1 inch of clean CareFresh on the bottom of the pan, then add a large handful of hay. Remember to use rabbit-safe litter in your rabbit’s crate. Clay and clumping cat litter can be dangerous for rabbits because they can ingest some of their litter when eating hay. Pine, cedar, or other aromatic wood chips can also be harmful to your rabbit’s health. Sticking to a simple, recyclable, paper-based litter provides your rabbit with a safe litter and is also kind to the environment.

Keep the box fresh. Rotate your rabbit’s crate every day to ensure a clean, fresh crate. This will prevent your rabbit from going to cleaner places to eliminate. If your rabbit doesn’t completely soil their box within 24 hours, simply add another large handful of hay at the end with the remaining clean hay. Never go more than two days before giving your rabbit a fresh litter box. If the box gets dirty, throw the entire contents in your garden waste bin or regular trash for disposal. If you’re a gardener, the waste from your rabbit’s litter box makes great compost! Wash the box and if urine collects, soak it clean with plain white vinegar.

If you’re having trouble getting your rabbit to use their crate after setting it up this way, try some of these litter box training tips.

Copyright: sandiegorabbits.org.