Can Hamsters Eat Lemon? Top 107 Best Answers

If you have a hamster at home or are thinking of bringing one home to join the family, you need to know all there is to know about keeping them happy and healthy.

One of the most important parts of caring for a hamster is knowing how to keep him hydrated and what the best drink is for him. Water is definitely the best drink you can give your hamster, but you may be tempted to offer something other than treats every now and then.

What can hamsters drink? Hamsters start life drinking their mother’s milk, but once they’re weaned, they should only be drinking water. Your hamster may be happy to drink some cow’s milk or juice if offered, but it’s not healthy.

Water provides your hamster with everything it needs to stay hydrated and survive, and there is no substitute. To learn more about what hamsters can drink, read on!

Everyone needs water

You should never substitute any other beverage for your hamster’s water. Water is the best drink for them, and it’s all they need to stay hydrated. Hamsters have a very specific diet and too much sugar or too little liquid can make them very ill.

You may not notice that your hamster is drinking water too often, but that’s because he only needs a small amount of water per day, around 2-4 teaspoons daily. However, this small amount of water daily is vital to your hamster’s survival.

When giving your hamster water, you can use either a pet water bottle or bowl, but be sure to rinse it out daily and fill it with fresh water every day, even if it’s just a small amount of water missing. Access to fresh water is very important for your hamster.

Should I give my hamster tap, filtered or bottled water?

Whether you give your hamster tap water, filtered water, or bottled water depends on your water supply.

If you have access to clean, safe tap water then it would be safe enough to give this to your hamster and many hamsters can drink tap water on a daily basis.

However, if your tap water is polluted or contains high levels of chemicals, you will need to look for an alternative source.

You can either boil the tap water or let it cool before giving it to your hamster. If you don’t want to go through this process, you can give your hamster filtered water or bottled water.

Whichever method you choose, just make sure you offer your hamster fresh, clean water that is safe for him to drink.

This water should be changed daily so that your hamster always has access to clean water and the water does not become dirty or stagnant.

Can I give my hamster sparkling water?

You should not give your hamster sparkling water. While having a few drops of fizzy water isn’t fatal to them, the fizz could give them a stomach ache and this could make them unwilling to eat and uncomfortable.

Avoid offering your hamster sparkling water, no matter how cute he may look, when he takes a sip!

Can I give my hamster milk?

Hamsters drink milk from their mother when they are born until they are weaned. Hamster milk is perfect for newborn hamsters and contains all the essential nutrients and vitamins they need to survive and grow.

Chances are you don’t have a tub of hamster milk in the fridge and you probably would have cow’s milk, soy milk or something similar. As tempting as you may be to offer your hamster this milk, you should not do it.

Other types of milk, such as cow’s milk or soy milk, contain different levels of fat and protein and are not suitable for a hamster’s nutrition and digestion. Giving them a different type of milk could wreak havoc on their digestive system, leading to an upset stomach, diarrhea, and even dehydration.

Not only is milk not suitable for a hamster, but if milk is spilled in their enclosure it can lead to bacterial growth and make their cage smell really bad. Bacterial growth and mold can endanger your hamster’s health and make him sick.

It’s best not to offer your hamster milk at all, and instead stick to safe, clean drinking water. It is too risky to give milk to your hamster, both if he drinks it and if the milk spills and messes up his cage.

Can I give my hamster juice?

Hamsters enjoy eating some fruits and vegetables, both of which contain their own amount of sugar. They are able to tolerate the amount of sugar in fruits and vegetables, although they are sensitive to the sugars and acid introduced into their diet.

Although hamsters can eat fruits and vegetables, you should not offer them fruit juice. Fruit juice contains too much added sugar and acid, which can be really bad for a hamster’s digestive system and cause serious upset.

Too much sugar in a hamster’s diet can lead to obesity and diabetes in the long term, and short-term effects can include hyperactivity, lethargy, upset stomach, diarrhea, and even dehydration.

The acid in fruit juice can also irritate a hamster’s stomach, which can cause them to become quite ill.

There’s no reason to give your hamster fruit juice, and even a few drops can make him sick. Water is more than enough for them and the safest option.

Can hamsters get dehydrated?

Hamsters can become dehydrated, and dehydration can happen fairly quickly. Hamsters can go 3 to 4 days without water, but after that time it can become very dangerous for them.

It’s important to make sure your hamster gets plenty of fresh water every day, and you’ll need to clean and refill their water bottle or bowl with fresh water every day.

Signs that your hamster is dehydrated include dull eyes, darkening urine and smell, and its skin not quickly returning to its normal shape when you gently tug on it.

If you think your hamster is dehydrated, you should contact your vet immediately. Below are some things to consider if you think your hamster is not getting enough water.

The food they ate

If you have been feeding your hamster food with a high water content, then he may not want to drink too much more. They only need 3-4 teaspoons of water a day, and they can get this from water-rich foods like cucumbers.

Check your water outlet

Something could be obstructing the flow of water in their water bottle (this bottle is our favorite) and they may not be able to drink properly. Check the bottle to make sure the water is flowing properly.

If you just recently put the water bottle in their cage instead of a bowl, they might not even know it’s there. Try to get her to drink from the bottle by placing a treat on the ball of the bottle, which will entice her to try it.

Your hamster is stressed

Your hamster may be feeling stressed and this could result in not drinking for a while. Maybe you just brought them home, or other environmental factors could be making them feel stressed or anxious.

It may take time for your hamster to adjust to his new home, so try your best to make him comfortable and remove anything that might be causing him stress.

Final Thoughts

Hamsters should only drink water. Water provides them with everything they need to survive and stay hydrated, and there really is no other substitute. Whether you give your hamster tap water or filtered bottled water depends on the quality of the tap water where you live.

Do not give your hamster any other beverages such as milk or fruit juice as this can cause an upset stomach and if given too often can lead to serious health problems later on.

It is so important to offer your hamster fresh water to keep them hydrated and happy.

related questions

Can hamsters drink orange juice?

Hamsters should not drink orange juice. It has a high sugar and acid content, which can cause a hamster to have an upset stomach. Even some citrus fruits alone can give your hamster stomach pain and even diarrhea and are best avoided.

Can hamsters have honey?

Hamsters can technically have some honey, but they can only be given very small amounts. The sweetness of the honey might be too much for some hamsters, causing them to vomit or have diarrhea.

Overall, it’s best not to feed them anything like honey.

Next up: Hamster Poop – The Complete Guide

For their diet, hamsters can eat a mix of pellets, seed mixes, fresh foods, and treats. The majority of a hamster’s diet should be high quality, store-bought food specifically formulated for hamsters (not rats, mice, or cats). But the selection of pet food at the pet store can be overwhelming, even after narrowing it down to hamster food. The choices don’t end when you come home and want to offer your hamster fresh foods and treats. Learn the best food to feed your hamster and safe foods to offer as treats.

Pelleted hamster diets

Pelleted hamster food provides a perfectly balanced nutrition in every bite and is often recommended for this reason. Pelleted diets can come in many forms but usually look like small cookies, biscuits, or granola. A hamster can be picky about loose seed mixes and only eat their favorite foods, resulting in an imbalanced diet. Pelleted diets prevent this, but they are a bit monotonous and some hamsters will reject them. A variety of other items can be supplemented with a pelleted mix, so long as the pelleted food makes up the majority of the diet.

seed hamster diets

It’s important to choose a loose seed mix that includes a variety of foods like grains and dried vegetables along with some seeds. Some loose seed compound feeds also include a balanced pellet feed as part of the mix (which is ideal). If you’re feeding a loose seed mix, make sure your hamster empties the food bowl before adding more and don’t allow your hamster to only eat his favorite things.

Fresh foods and treats for hamsters

You can feed your hamster a variety of human foods as long as you limit the treats to a small portion of your hamster’s diet. Cut out junk food and stick to healthy things like whole grains, fresh vegetables, and fruits (in moderation, otherwise diarrhea can occur). Store bought treats such as yogurt drops and honey/seed sticks are too sugary for a hamster and should be avoided.

Since dwarf hamsters are somewhat prone to diabetes, it’s also especially wise to avoid sugar in their diet, so avoid fruit altogether as a treat for them. Some safe foods to offer your hamster are:

Apples (without seeds)

bananas

blueberries

broccoli

carrots

cauliflower

cucumber

dandelion green

Grapes

Kale

Peas

potato (cooked)

romaine lettuce

spinach

strawberries

sweet potato

To squeeze

hay

Wholemeal bread or toast

whole wheat pasta (cooked)

Brown Rice (cooked)

Whole grains (no sugary grains)

mealworms

grilling

Small pieces of cooked chicken

Hard boiled eggs

Nuts (unsalted, no almonds)

Peanuts (unsalted)

pumpkin seed

lenses

sunflower seeds

Plain air popcorn (no butter or salt)

Hamsters usually love peanut butter too, but it needs to be fed carefully (like any other sticky food) as it can get stuck in their cheek pouches and cause serious problems. A very thin layer on a piece of wood is fine as an occasional treat, but peanut butter needs to be administered with care.

The Spruce / Adrienne Legault

Foods you shouldn’t feed hamsters

apple seeds

raw beans

Raw potatoes

almonds

citrus fruit

garlic

onions

Rhubarb leaves or raw rhubarb

chocolate

Any sugary or salty foods

Some junk food

The Spruce / Adrienne Legault

The best hamster diet

The ideal diet for a hamster is a pelleted diet supplemented with a variety of other safe and humane foods. If your hamster won’t eat the pellet food, sprinkle some seed mix on the pellets or find a seed food that already has pellets in it.

No matter what type of pet you own, we all want our pets to be happy. Luckily, most pets, including hamsters, are pretty easy to keep happy with the right care and attention. While hamsters are often thought of as one of the easiest pets to keep, there is a lot that goes into their proper care.

Ensuring your hamster is well taken care of is the first step in making sure he is happy. Once you’ve mastered the basics, there are a few other things you can do. We will discuss these “extras” in this article.

If you’re looking to make your hamster a little happier, here’s a list of things to try.

1. Provide a larger cage

Hamsters spend most of their time in their cage, so it’s important to make sure their cage is big enough to accommodate their needs. Hamsters need mental and physical enrichment to stay happy and healthy. Oftentimes, a larger cage often makes it easier to access these things.

In the wild, a single hamster has plenty of territory. While we won’t be giving our hamster a lot of space, it will do him well to go beyond the usual footprint and give him something bigger. Just because a hamster is small doesn’t mean they will appreciate a small space.

Hamsters should have plenty of room to burrow, toys, and items that meet their physical needs. A larger space will also ensure that the hamster gets enough physical exercise, which is important for maintaining a healthy weight and staying fit.

2. Provide a complete diet

When it comes to your hamster’s diet, you can often get away with “just good enough.” There are many commercial foods that can keep your hamster alive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the hamster will thrive. One of the first steps to making your hamster happier is to optimize their diet. Your hamster will feel much better if given an appropriate diet.

You shouldn’t just rely on a commercial hamster diet. Include appropriate fresh foods instead. This will help make your hamster happier and healthier.

However, more food is not always better. Hamsters often keep a supply of food in their burrows. They won’t just leave food in their bowl. Therefore, you cannot judge the amount of food you give your hamster by how much food it leaves behind. Hamsters are very bad at self-regulating their food intake. So you have to make sure you only give them the right amount.

3. Fresh water is always better

You will be surprised at how much water a hamster uses in a day. This is especially true if the cage is a bit larger as your hamster will likely move around a bit more. Fresh water is absolutely essential to your hamster’s well-being. Without the right amount of water, your hamster will not be happy or healthy.

It’s a common myth that hamsters originated in deserts, so they don’t need a lot of water. While hamsters can survive without water for a decent amount of time, this doesn’t keep them in a healthy place. In captivity, hamsters should always have access to fresh water.

Choose a quality water bottle to ensure your hamster stays hydrated at all times. Your pet should always be able to drink water when it needs it.

4. Use an exercise bike

In the wild, hamsters run a lot. The average hamster can walk up to 5 miles each night in search of food, water, and mates. They obviously can’t do that in captivity. This is one reason why an exercise bike is absolutely necessary. Hamsters were created to run, so it’s important to give them that opportunity.

Wheels are not an overrated gimmick. Instead, they’re a really essential toy that every hamster should have. Without one, they can gain weight and get bored. There are many hamster wheels to choose from. If your cage is large enough, you may even be able to have two to give your hamster some variety.

5. Add a tunnel system

Hamsters are natural tunnel seekers. They do. If you leave a hamster alone in its cage, it will try to dig tunnels just like in the wild. However, they often do not have much space for this. And the bedding that is commonly used in hamster cages just isn’t suitable. For these reasons, their owners often have to craft the tunnel system for them.

An easy way to do this is to use commercially available plastic tunnels. However, these are quite expensive. If you’re looking for a big setup, you’re probably going to spend quite a bit of money to get it ready. You can also make DIY tunnels out of paper towel rolls or plastic bottles. This obviously takes a little longer and doesn’t look as pretty, but it’s a much cheaper solution.

6. Consider treats – in moderation

An easy way to keep a hamster happy is to give them treats. Just as our favorite foods make us happy, our hamsters will enjoy their favorite foods too. Fresh vegetables and fruits are a great treat that’s also healthy. Some vegetables are naturally healthier than others, so do your research before feeding anything to your hamster. You should also consider feeding your hamster nuts and seeds, which can be just as healthy.

The most important thing to remember is to feed your hamster in moderation. You don’t want them trying to live on treats. They also need to eat a lot of their usual food.

7. Provide deep bedding

As we have already discussed, hamsters love to dig. Here they often sleep and hide their leftovers. Hamsters feel safest when they are in a burrow, so it’s important to give them plenty of space to dig. This means they make their bedding deeper than you would otherwise. Hamsters don’t need much vertical space since they are so small. You can take advantage of this by providing them with plenty of bedding.

8. Enrichment is essential

Enrichment is important for hamsters. It’s a necessity, not just something you have to do on top of that. Just as hamsters need food and water, they also need to train their brains. A simple way to provide plenty of enrichment is to use toys. In fact, we recommend swapping out the toy often so your hamster can always try something new.

Just like children, hamsters can get bored with the same toy over and over again. However, when you switch out toys, something they played with months ago suddenly becomes new again. It’s an easy way to keep your hamster’s life interesting.

9. Make her cage feel natural

When it comes to making hamsters happy, you should aim to make their environment as natural as possible. Usually, problems start when the hamster’s environment is too different from what it was designed for. Feel free to include natural elements that your hamster might encounter if it were wild.

Before you put anything in the cage, make sure it’s safe for your hamster. You don’t want to add anything with pesticides or other chemicals.

10. Don’t clean too often!

This might seem a little counterintuitive, but you don’t want to clean your hamster’s cage too often. Every time you clean your hamster’s cage, you will be removing his burrows and likely stressing him out. Hamsters have sensitive noses, so you should keep their catch properly clean. However, you should clean on site as much as possible. There’s no reason to completely redo all linens when spot cleaning would work instead.

It is better if you teach your hamster to use a litter box, which will make cleaning much easier. You can clean the litter box without disturbing the rest of your hamster’s habitat, which can significantly reduce their stress.

11. Show them affection – but not too much

Humans tend to be very sensitive. They want to hug and love their animals. For us this is completely natural – but for our hamsters it can be much less natural. Some hamsters like to be petted. If this describes your hamster, then by all means pet them!

However, other hamsters are a little less enthusiastic about human hands and prefer not to be touched. There’s no reason to stress your hamster out any more than normal, so we don’t recommend petting them too much in this situation. Most hamsters are solitary in the wild, so this isn’t as rare as you might think. Most hamsters are not very sensitive or clingy.

12. Don’t buy your hamster a friend

It’s a common misconception that hamsters need a friend to fulfill themselves. Honestly, most hamsters are solitary. In the wild, they do not live with other hamsters, nor do they need to be kept in captivity. Most hamsters prefer to live alone, although there are some species that will tolerate other hamsters around them.

In many cases, hamsters will likely fight until one is killed or given a new home. Therefore, you should never keep your hamsters together unless they are a specific breed that gets along with other hamsters.

If you want more than one hamster, you will need to keep them in a separate cage. This includes keeping everything separate and sanitizing everything used in both cages. The other hamster’s smell can stress them out, so you want everything to be as odor-free as possible (including you).

13. Let them hide

Hamsters build dens so they can hide from predators and the hot desert sun. In most cases, they are most comfortable hiding. When threatened, most hamsters will retreat to their hiding places. Problems can arise when they feel the need to hide but cannot find a suitable hiding place to run to.

There should be several hiding spots in your hamster’s cage. Often they will dig and build their own, although pre-built structures are still a good idea. They will not be destroyed when cleaning the tank and will provide your hamster with a permanent hiding place.

If your hamster is hiding, it’s just as important that you let them. You’re not making them any less shy or showing them that everything is okay by dealing with them when they’re scared. Let her calm down before you take her out of her tank.

14. Provide opportunities to chew

As with most rodents, a hamster’s teeth grow continuously. Because of this, they have to constantly chew to wear down their teeth. If their teeth aren’t properly worn down, they can grow through your hamster’s mouth and cause all sorts of problems.

Luckily for hamsters, chewing has become second nature. You just have to give them opportunities. Various chews are available on the market that hamsters can use to wear down their teeth. Make sure your hamster has access to some of these at all times so he can control his teeth growth naturally, just like he would in the wild.

15. Place the cage in a convenient location

You shouldn’t just put your hamster cage anywhere. Hamsters are somewhat sensitive to things like noise and temperature changes. You shouldn’t bring your hamster near a TV or other noisy device, as he is more likely to become frightened.

You also don’t want to put them in a drafty area. While drafts don’t usually affect us very much, hamsters are very small. If a cold draft hits them, they can get cold very quickly. For this reason, do not place them near an outside door or leaky window. They prefer a nice, quiet corner where they can feel safe and warm.

16. Only use safe accessories

Many hamster injuries are caused by using improper accessories in your hamster cage. Just because something looks safe doesn’t mean it is. Everything needs to be disinfected and cleaned before it is safe for your hamster.

While using pieces of wood you found outdoors as accessories can create a natural environment, they can potentially be contaminated with bacteria or harmful pesticides. This can potentially make your hamster sick, which would not make him the least bit happy.

For this reason, you should disinfect and clean everything before putting it in your hamster’s cage. This includes commercial toys because you don’t know what they came in contact with.

17. Get a hamster ball

Hamster balls are the ultimate hamster toy. However, they are a bit more complicated to use than you might think. You should only leave your hamster in his ball for 20 minutes at a time. Any longer and you may be limiting your hamster’s ability to eat or drink, which could lead to problems. Remember that your hamster will not be able to satisfy any of his needs in the hamster ball, so you should not leave him there for too long.

You should also monitor your hamster while he is in the ball. Some get frustrated at not being able to interact with the world around them, while others get scared because they can’t really hide under anything. If this happens, decrease your hamster’s ball time and try again another day.

18. Give them a sand bath

Hamsters love sand baths. While it does actually make the hamster cleaner by removing excess oils from its skin and fur, the simple sand bath can make any hamster happy.

Be sure to use sand that is safe for hamsters and get a suitable bowl that will not tip over. The last thing you need is sand and a sandy hamster spread all over the floor.

19. Keep them nocturnal

All breeds of hamsters sleep during the day. Instead of interacting with them during the day, aim to interact with them at night as much as possible. Some owners will attempt to alter their hamster’s sleeping schedule, but this isn’t really possible without impacting the pet’s health and happiness.

We strongly recommend letting the hamster sleep as much as it likes during the day. Clean their tank and play with them in the evenings or early mornings before they go to sleep.

You may also be interested in: How to bathe a hamster in 7 steps

Featured image: Hintau Aliaksei, Shutterstock

Hamsters are not usually skinny. If your new arrival is thin, it’s possible he was unintentionally deprived of food while he was patiently waiting for you to adopt him. When housed with more aggressive females, she may not be getting the food she needs, or she may be stressed and unable or unwilling to eat. Her stress may linger for a few more days as she adjusts to her new home, but as she becomes more comfortable and comfortable, her appetite should improve. It’s important to provide her with good nutrition, not just during this honeymoon phase, but for her whole life.

Understanding Dwarf Hamster Behavior – An Owner’s Guide

All animals communicate with each other through body language, including humans, although we tend to focus on speaking rather than showing someone what we mean by our body. However, hamsters are not very good at articulate speech, so they can only communicate with other hamsters and with their owners through their bodies. You can say hello, stand back! or “I’m hungry.” in many different ways. You will always want to understand your hamster and understand what he is trying to say because that is the best way to understand your hamster’s needs and wants. Today we’re going to take a closer look at all of these things hamsters do to tell or show us something. In this article we will show you how hamsters can use their body language to explain that they need or want something, what it means and what changes in hamster behavior should be a cause for concern. Without further ado, let’s get started! Significance of behavior in dwarf hamsters. There are many behaviors that might fascinate you with your hamster, so we’ll explain them all. Being nocturnal – many owners don’t actually know this before buying their hamster, but most rodents are primarily nocturnal dwellers. Don’t be surprised if you hear your hamster running around in its cage at night – this is a sign of a perfectly happy and healthy hamster. The reason for this is their poor eyesight as they don’t really rely on their eyesight. Hamsters tend to sniff around when they are looking for something and trying to identify something, so day and night doesn’t make too much of a difference to them. You can even hear them running on their exercise bike at night as they also need a lot of exercise. Chewing – You will definitely notice that your hamster appears to be chewing a lot on a regular basis, even when they have nothing to chew on. This is perfectly normal. What they actually do is file and grind their own teeth. Many animals, such as sharks, grow their teeth from the day they are born until the day they die. Hamsters also belong to this group of animals. If they don’t file and grind their teeth regularly, they will grow too long and this will cause problems with eating. Cheek Stuffing – Everyone probably knows that hamsters stuff their cheeks, it’s part of what makes them so endearing. They actually stick food in their cheeks to carry it back to their cave to hide. The reason for this is their natural instinct. In the wild, they would have to hide their food to protect it from other hamsters and other animals. While this may not be necessary when living in captivity, hamsters will still do this instinctively. They stuff their cheeks full of food and bring that food back to their cave where they hide it. Don’t let your hamster fool you into not giving him enough food as there is likely more than enough, it’s just that he hid it. Hamster moms actually stuff their babies in their cheeks to carry them to the den. And when they feel the babies are in danger, they even put their babies in their cheeks to protect them. Digging – Hamsters will dig to hide from potential threats, this is perfectly normal behavior and you shouldn’t worry. You need to understand that hamsters do not have defensive skills, they can only bite their attacker, but this is almost useless, since their teeth cannot do much damage. If a hamster bites you, it will probably take some blood, but that’s about it. Unlike dogs, which can bite, cats, which can scratch (not to mention big cats, which can tear other animals apart), and snakes, which can kill with their venom, hamsters are completely defenseless. Evolution has placed them at the bottom of the food chain and their only defense is to run and hide. They do this instinctively, and you may even find them hiding long after they’ve bonded with you and started seeing you as someone they trust. It should be noted that hamsters are very fearful animals – being defenseless by nature, they fear everything – and are therefore always on the lookout for danger. It will most likely take your hamster a month or two to get used to the tone and color of your voice, your smell and your presence. However, you will likely see it hiding from you even after that. You can’t exactly help that – no matter how much your hamster may trust you, he will always be afraid of sudden movements, loud noises, flashes of light, etc. Watching them with their ears pricked is actually funny, but hamsters will watch you as much as you watch them. When he feels he is not in danger, your hamster will try to watch you and see what you are doing. We say “trying to observe” because they have poor eyesight and can’t see much. If you notice your hamster watching you with ears perked up, you know he’s just curious about what’s going on. Grooming – Grooming is an essential part of your hamster’s life and it’s perfectly normal to notice him grooming himself a lot. They will spend hours and hours of their waking life grooming themselves – they are (ironically) one of the best cared for pets next to cats. It is important for them to take care of themselves because their hair, just like their teeth, never stops growing. Well, it slows down as they get old. Something to keep an eye on are areas of skin where there is no fur. If you notice that your hamster has actually been itching or combing his own fur, it probably means your hamster is ill in some way. It can be something simple, like mites, but you’ll still want to take it to the vet. As hamsters get older, they get lazy — and with good reason. Their coat grows less as they age and it is perfectly normal for them to spend less time grooming when grooming is not required. Yawning and stretching – all animals yawn and all animals stretch, not just humans. If you notice your hamster yawning and/or stretching, it is because he is comfortable and safe in his current environment. This is actually a great sign for you because it means that they are comfortable around you. Stretching makes the hamster vulnerable, and the fact that he’s willing to do so around you is a clear sign that your hamster trusts you. Eating out of hand – while we’re on the subject, here’s another great behavioral sign that your hamster trusts you. When a hamster is ready to eat out of your hand, they are essentially telling you that you have earned their trust. When an animal eats, every animal (including humans) is at its most vulnerable. Snakes like to hide when they are feeding and remain dormant for weeks after digestion. Most animals that live in pits like to retreat into this pit to enjoy their meal. If a hamster is willing to eat right out of your hand when it’s most vulnerable, it really needs to trust you. Biting the Cage – You may sometimes notice a hamster biting its cage. This is textbook attention seeking, so it means you should take your hamster out and play with him. Head rubbing against the cage – this behavior has nothing to do with the previous example. Hamsters will rub their heads against the cage, especially the metal bars, if they find their cage too small. Don’t ignore this – small cages will stress your hamster. You have to understand that hamsters are very sensitive and if just one thing is wrong they will go insane. If they can’t muster their energy, their cage is too small, or they’re hungry – the result is always the same; The hamster gets stressed. This is dangerous as smaller animals, including hamsters, have been known to die from stress – their hearts can literally fail from stress. It is also harmful because the hamster often loses hair on his face when he rubs it against the metal bars. Biting – If your hamster bites you, it’s for one of two reasons. First, as we’ve already explained, her eyesight is terrible. If you stick your finger in the cage and the hamster bites into it, it may just be trying to figure out if your finger is actually food. This is especially common if you haven’t washed your hands since you bring so many smells with you (and if you’ve eaten before, the hamster will definitely smell the food). That’s why it’s always important to wash your hands before interacting with your hamster. The second reason your hamster might bite you is to tell you to back off. Hamsters fear everything, and if you were a small animal and a giant finger suddenly approached you would probably try to run away from it too. However, as soon as they have nowhere to run, they bite back. Even if you are familiar with your hamster and it knows you well, in this situation it is still likely to bite you. You need to interact with your hamster slowly, like you would interact with a dog – let him sniff your hand. And even then, don’t poke the hamster. Chewing – Hamsters usually start chewing when they are handled and fed up. Put the hamster back in its cage. Ears forward with cheek pouches inflated and mouth open – this usually means the hamster is scared. There is something that is troubling it in its current environment and you should remove that something. Rapidly Emptying Cheek Pouches – Hamsters that do this are usually facing some kind of threat and need to empty their pouches in order to run away quickly. This means something startled your hamster. Standing on your hind legs, with your upper body raised – this is your hamster telling you to back off. While this rarely happens, this is basically your hamster telling you that if you don’t back off, he feels threatened and will become aggressive. Startled behavior when approached – this means that your hamster has not yet become accustomed to its surroundings and you as the owner. This is perfectly normal in the first few months of your relationship, as it takes hamsters a long time to fully get used to their owners. Sleeping during the day – completely normal. Hamsters are mostly nocturnal animals, so the fact that they sleep during the day is the equivalent of humans sleeping at night, there’s nothing wrong with that. Squeak – Squeak can mean many things in many different animal languages. Hamsters squeak when they are distressed or scared. This is basically a universal sign of feeling excited. You will probably notice this when you first bring the hamster home. They are also likely to squeak when in pain or when fighting. If you have two hamsters in the same cage and you hear them squeaking, they may be fighting. Chattering – if you hear your hamster teeth chattering, it probably means he needs more space. This doesn’t mean you need to buy a bigger cage, but that you need to back off and give them some breathing room because you’ll irritate them and they might bite you. Hiss – although this sign is mostly associated with snakes, not furry pets like hamsters, they can be too. This usually means they are feeling very excited or anxious, although it can also happen when they were frightened. Flattened ears with narrowed eyes – that’s actually similar to how people behave in the same situation. This means the hamster is suspicious of something – it has noticed something that has caught its attention and it needs to investigate. Lying on your back with your front teeth showing – this is another sign of a scared and threatened hamster that you don’t want to mess with. Give your hamster some breathing room. Moving slowly – this means the hamster is exploring. It’s likely that your hamster will continue to explore for the first few weeks after you bring him home. This is perfectly normal and should not cause any concern. Crawling slowly along the sides of the cage – this means the hamster is unsure and is trying to figure out where it is. Playing dead is one of the techniques hamsters use to avoid being eaten or disturbed by other animals and predators. This is actually a method that many animals use, and hamsters are no different. If you notice that your hamster appears to be frozen, it’s because he’s playing dead. Unless it’s actually dead, but that’s a whole different barrel of monkeys (check by poking it). Unresponsiveness – If you find your hamster not responding to your presence (which is highly unlikely, hamsters will always respond to your presence, either positively or negatively, but they will definitely respond) they may be ill. Laziness – If you notice your hamster acting lazy or lethargic, this can be another sign that your hamster is sick. Behavior change in dwarf hamsters While not behavioral changes, we think we may need to address that disease can be detected by physical changes in appearance. Especially slimming and fur. Two hamsters fight – all males in the animal kingdom fight for dominance. If you notice your hamsters fighting, it may be for territory or to assert dominance. Be sure to separate them. Also remember that if you have a male and a female hamster, the male hamster will attempt to mate every time the female is in heat (which is literally every four days) – and whenever the female is does not want to mate, it can actually kill the male. So you should keep your male and female hamsters separate if you don’t want this problem, and even if you don’t want literally hundreds of hamsters a year, as hamsters breed like crazy and you will get over your head very quickly. Repeating a certain behavior over and over again – if hamsters do this, it is usually a sign that they are not doing well mentally. This is most often due to a monotonous lifestyle – we have already explained that these animals are insanely active and you need to keep their interest if you want them to live a healthy and happy life. You should buy some toys and consider buying a bigger cage. Not eating or drinking – that’s always a concern, regardless of the species. When an animal isn’t eating, it usually means it’s sick in some way. You should definitely take your hamster to the vet. This is often followed by a loss of coat and weight of the animal. Don’t Chew – Hamsters need to chew to shred their teeth, we’ve talked about that before. When a hamster stops chewing, it usually means you should be concerned. You will also notice if your hamster’s teeth are too long. You should take your hamster to the vet. Uncharacteristic Hiding – We’ve said that hamsters will hide when they’re scared or stressed, but if your hamster is hiding all the time for no apparent reason, that should be a sign of concern. There is something in your hamster’s environment that is bothering him and you should try to identify what it is so that you can remove it. Behavior of Female Dwarf Hamsters Female hamsters come into heat regularly every four days. This period lasts 12 hours. When they are in heat you will find them crouching and raising their tails. This is an invitation to mate. You will also notice another smell in the air around the cage – these are the pheromones that the female releases to attract the male. When a female is pregnant (gestation usually lasts between 18 and 30 days depending on the individual hamster) you will find the female digging and digging constantly. This is because it builds a better nest for their offspring. You will find that these activities especially intensify just before birth. Mothers will be very protective of their young after birth and will not allow anyone (not even you) to approach their young. They don’t even allow the father to approach the babies. During this time you will find that the mother is very stressed and very active, constantly running around, digging, carrying pellets, etc. If a hamster is acting similar to a cat and is sneaking around in its cage, it is probably trying to tell you that it has pains. “When a hamster is in pain, it often buckles slightly and takes very small steps,” says Dr. Kerry Kraemer, DVM, of Blum Animal Hospital in Chicago. “He can also be restless and may have trouble getting comfortable. If you observe this type of movement, be sure to handle the hamster gently, as pain may cause the animal to bite.” Waving your hands — if you see your hamster wagging its tiny paws, that is actually a sign that he is exploring his surroundings. Hamsters have very poor eyesight, so they rely on their other senses to explore. When they want to know what’s around them, they often stand on their hind legs and lift their front legs and wave around, much like a human. The hamster appears to be begging – if the hamster appears to be begging, it is actually not a good thing to approach. Sometimes a hamster will stand up on its hind legs and its front paws will hang limp, and many people will take this as the hamster’s begging. It actually means being alert, and that can turn into aggression. Even though yawning is mostly just that – yawning, it can sometimes actually indicate suppressive behavior or an aggressive display. Yawning is often seen in hamsters that are aggressive, stressed, and about to fall asleep. If you see your hamster yawning, it’s best to leave it alone. The polar opposite of this would be pinching – as hamsters are known to pinch their owners when they want attention. If you let your hamster out of his cage and he pinches your finger while he’s playing with you on the couch, he’s probably inviting you to interact with him more. Hamsters are known to be a sensitive species, and they will definitely let you know that once you decide to adopt one. As soon as something is wrong, they will surely let you know. You should always keep an eye on signs that your hamster is unhappy with something, signs that there is a problem that you should not ignore. You might think of hamsters as animals that just behave like animals, but their body language is actually quite complex and they’re trying to send messages. It is important that you interpret these messages correctly and act accordingly. If something is wrong with your hamster’s environment – change it. Don’t be afraid to interact with your hamster, most of the signs that will tell you to back off will be fairly obvious – hissing, scratching, etc. We’ve covered all of the signs of hamster behavior that are available for interpretation and that actually have been interpreted. Dwarf hamsters behave like most other hamsters, the only hamsters that actually differ slightly from their cousins ​​in the behavior department are Syrian and Chinese hamsters, so you can use this guide even if you have a different breed of hamster. It’s also important to know that any progress in a relationship with an animal will take time, so don’t rush it. Recognize your hamster’s body language, what it means and how to respond to it. There’s no reason for you not to be able to communicate with your hamster even if he can’t use words. Hamsters can grow up to be loving animals, but you need to learn their language to build a trusting relationship that isn’t held back by the barrier of understanding. Feel free to consult this guide if you have any doubts about what your hamster is trying to say….

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What Treats You Should (And Shouldn’t) Feed Your Hamster

Let’s eat! What Treats You Should (And Shouldn’t) Feed Your Hamster

Because hamsters are omnivores, meaning they eat both animal and plant foods, they can enjoy a variety of foods in their diet. That being said, their main diet should be a high-quality commercial pellet that contains all of the vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients they need to meet their nutritional needs. In addition to their daily pelleted food, hamsters love the occasional treat – and it’s always fun to watch your pet enjoy a variety of tasty snacks. Just remember that treats should never make up more than 10% of your pet’s total diet and any dietary changes should be made gradually. Rapid changes in a hamster’s diet can cause stress, leading them to overeat and develop diarrhea – commonly referred to as wet tail.

Safe food for hamsters

If your hamster deserves a small treat, consider some of the following:

Grains ˇ Grains make up a large part of a hamster’s diet. They provide protein and carbohydrates and can come from prepared hamster mixes or from fresh foods such as unsweetened whole grains, whole wheat bread, brown rice, whole wheat pasta, and unsalted, unbuttered popcorn. If you offer a ready-made hamster mix as a treat, make sure it doesn’t contain too many high-fat nuts and seeds, as these foods promote obesity. Vegetables ˇ Fresh, organic vegetables are best. Romaine lettuce, dandelions, cauliflower, carrot tops, broccoli, spinach, sweet potatoes, squash, artichokes, and any other dark green vegetable are good choices. Avoid iceberg lettuce and other vegetables or fruits like watermelon, which are high in water content and low in nutritional value. Remember to wash vegetables thoroughly to remove traces of harmful pesticides and only feed small amounts of produce at a time. Fruit ˇ Hamsters love apples, pears, strawberries, blueberries, grapes and bananas. Fruit should be offered in moderation as a supplement to their regular pelleted diet. Remove vegetables or fruit that will not be eaten within 10-12 hours to keep them from spoiling. Timothy Hay ˇ Hay is a great rodent food that can help keep your hamster’s continuously growing teeth at a healthy length and in good condition. Protein ˇ As omnivores, hamsters may have some animal protein in their diet, such as: B. hard-boiled eggs, boiled chicken, and occasionally a live mealworm or cricket. Hamsters love these high protein treats – make sure you offer them in moderation so they continue to eat their base pellet diet. Clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water ˇ Water should be available to your hamster at all times and should be changed daily.

Foods not to feed your hamster

Just as important as knowing what is safe to feed your pet is knowing what not to feed your hamster. The following foods should never be offered to hamsters as they are toxic and can cause serious medical problems: Chocolate

caffeine

alcohol

Excess sugar or fat

onions and garlic

Apple seeds (contain toxic cyanide)

rhubarb

Shelled peanuts (may contain traces of toxic mold)

Hamsters eat a wide variety of foods, but in general they need three things; Dry food, fresh fruits and vegetables and a small amount of protein.

Modern dry food is specially formulated to provide most of the essential vitamins and minerals your hamster needs to stay fit and healthy. There is a wide variety of mixes to choose from online and at your local pet supply store.

Food, lovely (hamster) food!

Fresh food is a tasty addition to a bone-dry diet. Hamsters like leafy greens like dandelions and clover, as well as fruits and vegetables like apples, pears, carrots, and cabbage. A useful list of hamster foods can be found on our Hamster Food List page.

When a hamster feels discolored or is recovering from illness or pregnancy, supplementing with a small amount of protein may help. A small portion of boiled egg is ideal. Don’t overdo it – a hamster is a small animal with a small stomach and a correspondingly small appetite!

The heaviest drinkers in the animal kingdom are punier than you might expect. Elephants, for example, are massive, but they’re relatively lightweight—they lack a gene for alcohol metabolism. Thanks to our ancestors’ propensity to pluck fermented fruit off the ground, humans are actually quite important. But to find the real champions, you have to think smaller.

Think hoarders.

hamsters think.

“They just put a bottle of unsweetened Everclear on top of the cage and they love it,” says Gwen Lupfer, a psychologist at the University of Alaska Anchorage who has studied alcohol consumption in hamsters. You regularly lose 18 grams per kilogram of bodyweight per day, the alcoholic equivalent of a person drinking a liter and a half of 190-Proof Everclear. In the wild, hamsters will hoard seeds and fruits of ryegrass in their burrows, and they will eat this fermenter as it becomes more and more alcoholic in winter. In the lab they are quite happy with Everclear. If they have the choice between water and alcohol, they reach for the schnapps.

People have known of hamsters’ affinity for alcohol since at least the 1950s, when scientists in Texas determined that hamsters could outperform the common lab rat. Rats can be tricked into drinking alcohol – either by selectively breeding genetic lines or by feeding them a mixture of sugar and ethanol until they develop a taste for the latter. (Ethanol is the specific type of alcohol found in alcoholic beverages.) But with hamsters, “you could take a hamster right out of the pet store and give them grain alcohol,” says Danielle Gulick, an addiction researcher at the University of Florida. “It would like to drink.”

And they can drink a lot before they get drunk. When Lupfer studied dwarf hamsters, she and her students rated the animals’ drunkenness on a literally wobbly scale. They rated the hamsters from zero for “no visible wobble” to four for “falls on their side and does not straighten up.” (They had previously tried unsuccessfully to track the hamsters’ walking by dipping their paws in watercolor – they could not distinguish the pawprints of the drunk and sober hamsters.) The hamsters never averaged above 0.5 on the wiggle scale – not even at the highest oral doses. But when Lupfer and her team injected the ethanol directly into the stomach of the hamster instead, the animals didn’t do as well. They started to wobble and fell over at much, much lower doses.

When consumed orally, Lupfer explains, alcohol travels straight from the gut to the liver, which begins to break down the mind-altering toxin ethanol. Hamster livers are “so efficient” at processing ethanol that very little gets into their blood, says Tom Lawton, a doctor specializing in critical care in Bradford, England. But when the hamsters were injected with ethanol, the substance was able to bypass the liver and get into their bloodstream and then into their brains – hence a lot of wiggling and falling over. Hamsters’ alcohol tolerance is likely an adaptation to their hamster lifestyle. (Other animal hoarders may have developed a similar tolerance, but they weren’t as easy to study in a lab.) They would have a hard time surviving the winter, Lupfer told me, if they “didn’t like their own foods that they do.” hoarded or if they became ill from the alcohol in it.”

It’s not just alcohol that hamsters tolerate; they prefer water — and that might be because they’re drinking for the calories. (Alcohol has seven calories per gram, almost as many as fat, which comes in at nine.) Gulick found that giving sucrose water to hamsters can suppress their drinking, but no-calorie sucrose water does not. And in the ’90s, scientists studying whether hamsters might be a good model for alcoholism studies decided to test ethanol with carefully balanced offerings of tomato juice, peach juice, mango juice, sugar water, and a Certain Plus chocolate nutritional shake. In fact, the hamsters began drinking less alcohol when they were given sweet, high-calorie alternatives. Chocolate Guarantee Plus worked best, which the researchers attributed to a preference for its flavor.

Lawton, who recently tweeted about hamsters and alcohol in an adorable thread, told me he raised hamsters in Yorkshire when he was young. He only found out during his medical studies that very serious scientists had investigated the alcoholic preferences of hamsters. But as a teenager, he made a related discovery of his own. When it got so cold in his house that the hamsters went into hibernation, a schnapps would wake them up. Cheers.

You may have seen this YouTube montage of drunk animals. If not, it’s one for a rainy day. Aside from being amusing, this video raises a few questions (at least according to the YouTube video comments), such as: B. How do animals get drunk in the wild?

Many foods that animals eat in the wild (e.g. fruit) are naturally fermented, yielding ethanol with an alcohol content of up to 5% (maybe not much for a human, but much more for a small mammal).

Some animals avoid drinking alcoholic fruit juices as, unsurprisingly, drinking can have negative side effects.

However, many mammals such as shrews, slow lorises, plantain squirrels and various species of rats all feed on the nectar of the Malaysian bertam palm, which can contain up to 3.8% alcohol. These small mammals act as pollinators and receive a tasty morsel of nectar in return. However, despite the relatively high alcohol content in this beverage of choice for these small, fluffy creatures, they don’t seem to be acting all that drunk.

Similar effects have been found in other animals. For example, Syrian hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) drink what scientists describe as “a very high ethanol intake,” but they seem to be able to hold their drink very well.

A recent study by Lupfer and colleagues at the University of Alaska at Anchorage examined ethanol consumption in another hamster, the dwarf hamster Phodopus campbelli. The researchers gave hamsters set amounts of ethanol to see how much they would need to drink before their motor skills were affected. To measure this, they used something called the “Wobbling Scale,” which is exactly what you might expect:

The researchers gave the hamsters the ethanol in two ways: either orally or injected directly into their bodies (i.e., an “intraperitoneal” injection). The more ethanol injected into the hamsters’ bodies, the more they “wobbled” as expected, according to the scales. However, the hamsters could handle much higher doses of orally ingested ethanol without affecting their motor control. In fact, they could drink about 10 times the amount of ethanol a human could consume before acting drunk.

How do hamsters do it? It seems likely that an enzyme, alcohol dehydrogenase, which we also have as our primary defense against alcohol, is particularly active in these hamsters. However, other studies have also found that another hamster (the Syrian hamster) is not only highly tolerant to ethanol but also to amphetamines. This might suggest that in hamsters there might be some other mechanism (e.g. dopaminergic neurons or something else in the central nervous system) that keeps these guys sober.

Relation

Lupfer, G., Murphy, E.S., Merculieff, Z., Radcliffe, K., & Duddleston, KN (2015). Adaptation to Alcohol: Ethanol Consumption, Sensitivity, and Late Fermentation in the Dwarf Hamster (Phodopus campbelli). Behavioral Processes, 115, 19-24.

Honey is a natural substance made by bees that is dense and sweet. Many people use it as a natural sweetener instead of sugar. It can be much healthier for humans and allow us to satisfy our sweet tooth without interfering with our diet too much.

However, does that mean we can feed it to our pets? Can hamsters eat this natural sweetener?

Can Your Hamster Eat Honey?

To cut a long story short, yes, hamsters can eat honey, but only in minimal amounts.

It’s always best to think about what an animal would eat in the wild, especially one that has only recently been domesticated like hamsters.

Hamsters don’t eat many sugary things in the wild because they only get natural sugars from collected fruit, and even these are few and far between. Honey is not a typical food for them and hamsters are particularly sensitive to sugary substances.

If you decide to give honey to your hamster, be sure to watch him after giving him a small amount. Some hamsters’ stomachs will be too sensitive for something that sweet. It will cause them to experience vomiting or diarrhea.

Honey has beneficial effects even in the tiny amounts fed to your hamster.

Nutritional value of honey

Honey has a higher nutritional value than almost all other sweeteners, both synthetic and natural. Bees produce it using nectar they take from flowers. They bring this back to the hives, and worker bees help store and metabolize the substance throughout the season.

Honey is said to be food for bees, and they store it so that they have plenty to eat during flowerless seasons like winter.

Because honey comes from so many different plants, it contains a whole host of vitamins. Your hamster can benefit from trace amounts of vitamins B2 and B3, as well as iron.

The Risks of Serving Honey to Your Hamster

Serving honey to your hamster has health risks. A single tablespoon of honey contains 64 calories and 17 grams of sugar. Hamsters are very sensitive to sugar and can suffer from obesity and heart problems if overfed.

In addition to the small but helpful amounts of vitamins and iron, honey also contains calcium, sodium, and phosphorus. These are often useful in human nutrition, but not for hamsters. However, these are only present in traces. So just feeding your hamster tiny portions of honey is not enough to cause problems.

The sugars in honey and other sweet snacks can damage teeth over time

Also, honey is so sticky that by itself it can pose a choking hazard to your hamster if it gets stuck in their mouth or throat. Avoid this by diluting it with water or milk before serving.

The final result

Honey is not toxic to hamsters, but can only be given in tiny portions over a long period of time. It’s better to give them fruit if you want to offer them something sweet to eat.

Relatives reads:

Selected image rights: Jak Jakuu,, Pixabay

Long too short: A drop of chocolate ice cream is not enough to harm your hamster.

The dangerous thing in chocolate is called “theobromine” (see this question for more details: Does Chocolate Hurt Hamsters?).

How much theobromine can a hamster eat without harm?

I found a science article about dangerous doses of theobromine for rats, mice and hamsters:

The daily dose of theobromine that produced reversal changes in thymic weight patterns and morphology in both sexes and testes in males was about 250-300 mg/kg/day in adult rats and about 500 mg/kg/day in rats immature rats. Hamsters and mice were much more resistant to theobromine than rats. A decrease in growth and thymic weight occurred only at the highest dose levels of theobromine, and testicular and thymic changes were completely absent in hamsters.

What matters to your hamster is how much of this theobromine was in the ice cream and what the hamster’s weight is.

The hamster’s weight ranges from 25 g (1 oz, dwarf hamster) to 200 g (7 oz, Syrian hamster). how much is yours

The quote says: Adult rats make 250 mg/kg/day sick. (They feed them that amount of theobromine every day for 28 days.) However, this was not a risk for hamsters, they only get sick “at the highest dose”.

250 mg/kg/day means 0.25 mg per g of body weight.

So, according to the article, a 25g hamster can eat 25*0.25=6.25mg of theobromine (daily for 28 days) without getting sick. A Syrian hamster can safely eat up to 50 mg.

How much ice cream did the hamster eat?

This school chemistry website states:

A gallon (3.8 liters) of ice cream must weigh at least 4.5 pounds, so the minimum density is 0.54 grams per milliliter. Better brands have a higher density – up to 0.9 grams per milliliter.

A teaspoon of water holds approximately 5ml of water. It can therefore be assumed that a drop of water corresponds to approximately one milliliter.

A drop of ice cream (one milliliter) then has a maximum weight of 0.9 g = 900 mg.

How much chocolate is in a drop of ice cream?

You can look in your ice box, it might say something like “min. 15% real chocolate”.

I found a receipt for chocolate ice cream with 300g dark chocolate in 1300g ice cream (that’s less than 24% chocolate).

If we follow that, in one drop 900mg ice cream is 300g/1300g*0.9g = 0.2077g real dark chocolate.

How much theobromine is in this amount of chocolate?

In the table of the pet.SE question mentioned above, 25g (1oz) of dark chocolate is noted as containing 130mg of theobromine. That’s 5.2 mg of theobromine per gram of chocolate.

In a drop of ice cream there is 0.2077 g real chocolate and therefore 5.2 mg/g ⋅ 0.2077 g = 1.08 mg theobromine.

(Do the math from the other side: The lightest adult hamster (25 g) can eat 6.25 mg of theobromine: 6.25/1.08 = about 5.8 drops of ice cream without getting sick).

So even with the heaviest (and therefore highest quality) ice cream and a high percentage of dark (!!) chocolate (over 23%) your hamster cannot have enough theobromine in one drop of ice cream to get sick.

Small mammals and rodents

Signs of heat intolerance are:

Ways to keep your small pet cool in non-emergency situations

! First it snows, then it’s 35 degrees. If you’re like me (and most other Canadians), adjusting to the changing temperatures can be difficult. Unfortunately, it can be just as challenging and even dangerous for our pets. This short article covers signs of heat intolerance in small mammals and rodents and simple ways to keep your animals cool. • Lethargy (lack of exercise, lack of energy, sluggishness, limping when picked up) • Panting, difficult breathing • Dehydration • Feet and tails that feel hot • Lying flat on stomach • Drooling • Unconsciousness Rodents and other small mammals do not sweat like humans and therefore do ; can’t cool down their bodies that quickly. In an emergency heat stroke situation, never immerse your pets in cold water! This could put them into shock or they could inhale water. Instead, try spraying them lightly with a spray bottle, wiping them down with a damp cloth, placing them next to an ice pack wrapped in a towel (only under direct supervision!), and then call your vet right away! The first thing to make sure your pet’s cage is in the coolest room in the house or, if that’s not possible, out of direct sunlight stretch out. These are available at most hardware stores for pennies to a few dollars. Wrap them in tea towels and place them under half of the cage for your pet to cool off when needed, or give them an ice cube to play with. Make sure fresh water is always available! for pets that can eat it (such as hedgehogs, rabbits, hamsters, guinea pigs, rats and others). Rats especially enjoy “pea fishing,” a game in which they are provided with a shallow bowl of water with frozen peas floating in it. They have to get a little wet to grab the frozen treat, which helps keep them cool and gives them some fun! But be careful not to overdo it! Rabbits and guinea pigs, for example, eat mostly hay; Vegetables are an important supplement, but shouldn’t make up more than 10% of the daily diet, even in hot weather, and try to keep them quiet. Pets who are being treated or who are very active in running around and playing are at an additional risk of developing heatstroke. I hope these tips help your pet stay cool on those crazy summer days. If you have any questions, concerns or comments, please feel free to contact us here at the clinic!

Cheese has been associated with rodents for ages, and cartoons have a lot to do with it. Do rodents really love cheese? Some do, and hamsters are rodents that tend to enjoy a variety of snacks and treats, which often include cheese. But is cheese healthy for hamsters? Cheese may be safe in small amounts, but there are better snacking options for hamsters.

Is Cheese Good for Hamsters?

Cheese may be safe for hamsters in small amounts but is not an essential part of their diet.

Hamsters are omnivores that can enjoy a wide variety of foods. In the wild, hamsters tend to eat seeds, grains, grasses and occasionally insects. Fortunately, complete and balanced commercial diets are available to ensure pet hamsters are getting everything they need. Hamster food usually comes in pellets or mixes and usually contains grains, seeds, vitamins and minerals.

In general, hamsters should eat at least 50% commercial hamster food and up to 50% raw vegetables to stay healthy. Many fresh raw vegetables are good for hamsters, including kale, spinach, dandelions, and broccoli. You can eat small amounts of fruits like apples and bananas. Other healthy treats include pasta, rice, and seeds. Small amounts of unsalted nuts work well. Hamsters don’t need large amounts of fat, sugar or salt in their diet, so foods with these should be avoided. They do not require dairy in their diet, so technically there is no need to ever offer cheese to a hamster.

Many hamsters love the taste of cheese, but its high fat and sodium content is not particularly healthy for hamsters. If your hamster likes cheese and seems to be able to tolerate it well, you can occasionally offer it in small amounts. Hamsters should be fed no more than a pea-sized amount of cheese once or twice a week. Choose a low-fat, low-salt cheese like low-fat cottage cheese or mozzarella. Avoid greasy or salty cheeses like aged cheddar, parmesan, and processed cheese products. Never offer your hamster “mold” cheeses such as Stilton or blue cheese as these can be harmful.

If your hamster loves cheese, it can be a great option for training and oral medication. Just remember to feed it sparingly.

Side effects of feeding hamsters cheese

Cheese is not toxic to hamsters. Too much cheese, however, can lead to health problems.

Some hamsters tolerate cheese and other dairy products well, while others suffer from lactose intolerance. Hamsters may vomit and/or have diarrhea after eating cheese or other dairy products. If you are unsure whether your hamster can tolerate cheese, start with small amounts of cheese and see how your hamster handles it. If no diarrhea or vomiting occurs, gradually work your way up to a pea-sized amount of cheese at a time.

Hamsters can become overweight if fed too much cheese, especially if the cheese is high in fat. Too much salt (from cheese or other salty snacks) can cause dehydration and kidney problems in hamsters.

Don’t give your hamster too much cheese; He may try to put it in his cheek pouches and bring it back to his habitat for storage. It won’t be long before the cheese goes bad. Hamster lovers often enjoy seeing those sweet chubby cheeks completely stuffed, but some foods (like sticky cheese) can get stuck in the cheek pouches.

What to do if your hamster has too much cheese?

Mistakes happen, and you may find that your hamster has eaten more than its fair share of cheese. Overeating cheese once or twice is unlikely to harm a hamster, but it’s always important to watch for signs of illness such as lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea and loss of appetite. Be sure to consult an exotics veterinarian if you are concerned about your hamster’s health.

Hamsters tend to save their food for later, so extra cheese may be in their cheeks or anywhere in their habitat. Check your hamster’s habitat and bedding for hidden cheese stashes and discard them. If you’re in doubt about feeding your hamster cheese, it’s probably best to avoid it altogether and choose a healthier type of treat.

Can hamsters eat bananas? The Squeaks and Nibbles team will check if it’s safe for your hamster to snack on a banana.

Hamsters need a diet rich in carbohydrates and vitamins. Bananas are a great source of these nutrients and are non-toxic to hamsters. But bananas alone are not enough.

Hamsters should eat a wide variety of foods. How many bananas can hamsters have? And should it be fresh, dried, peeled or chipped?

Are Bananas Safe for Hamsters?

Simply put, bananas are safe for hamsters – in moderation. And there are some important considerations when it comes to a hamster’s diet.

Bananas are a type of large edible berry. Yes, you heard that right. They are technically a berry. They have been used since at least 5000 BC. cultivated. and are native to large parts of Central America.

However, bananas quickly caught on when they were discovered and brought to areas in Madagascar, Africa and Asia. Eventually they made their way to Europe and the rest of the world.

Like many berries, bananas are high in carbohydrates. They’re actually mostly carbohydrates – 93%, with just 3% fat and 4% protein. They are a good source of fiber, vitamin C, vitamin B6, potassium and manganese.

But what does this mean for our hamsters? Let’s take a closer look at bananas for hamsters.

Hamsters and Bananas

In the wild, hamsters are omnivores, eating a variety of foods ranging from nuts to roots to bugs. While domesticated, hamsters can subsist solely on commercial hamster food as long as it is nutritionally complete.

The best diet for a house hamster is one that is as close to the wild as possible. However, many owners love to give their hamster vegetables and fruits as treats.

Since hamsters are omnivores, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. They are designed to eat fruits and vegetables.

In fact, some vegetables and fruits offer many benefits to your hamster and can help ensure their diet is properly varied. As we have seen, bananas contain almost exclusively carbohydrates. One study found that hamsters should eat around 62% carbohydrate to be as healthy as possible.

Obviously, hamsters should eat mostly carbohydrates, which is good news as bananas are almost entirely carbohydrates. Hamsters also benefit from many of the nutrients found in bananas.

Do hamsters like bananas?

As any hamster parent will tell you, hamsters love to nibble on just about anything they can get their hands on. And bananas are no exception!

Of course, we all love sharing our treats with our animals, especially when it seems like they’re begging for a treat. But it is extremely important not to assume that your hamster can eat something just because you can.

Are Bananas Bad For Hamsters?

Bananas are not toxic to hamsters and they can have bananas in moderation. However, the key word here is definitely “moderation”.

Hamsters are very small animals and should not gorge themselves on food. For a healthy hamster diet, they should eat good food only in small amounts. Too much of a good thing is still too much.

Are Bananas Good for Hamsters?

We’ve already talked about how good the carbohydrates in bananas are for hamsters. There are other benefits too.

Fiber is also good for hamsters as it aids in their digestion. But because hamsters are so tiny, they don’t need as much fiber as their human counterparts.

Also, different types of fibers work better for hamsters than others. According to a study, the fiber found in bananas isn’t particularly beneficial for hamsters and doesn’t result in the health benefits that other forms of fiber have.

However, this does not mean that it is completely unusable. Fiber is still fiber, even if it works a little less well than other forms.

Hamster and Vitamin C

Like many rodents, hamsters also need vitamin C in their diet. Hamsters do not store vitamin C and therefore need to consume it regularly to remain healthy.

Hamsters are prone to scurvy, which is simply a vitamin C deficiency. If a hamster does not have enough vitamin C, problems such as decreased clotting and collagen production can occur.

These problems can then progress to problems with walking, swollen joints, bleeding under the skin, and internal bleeding.

As you can see, hamsters need vitamin C to function normally. Bananas easily provide this necessary vitamin and therefore fit in very well with a hamster’s nutritional needs.

Hamsters and vitamin B6

Vitamin B6 deficiency can also be a problem for hamsters. Hamsters don’t make their own vitamin B6, which means they have to get it from their diet instead.

If they don’t consume enough of it, they will show stunted growth after about two to three weeks after their stores are depleted. If the deficiency persists, they die within 13 weeks.

Hamsters simply cannot function without an adequate amount of vitamin B6. Fortunately, bananas have a rich amount of vitamin B6.

A medium-sized banana contains around 0.4mg of B6, making it a good source of this nutrient for hamsters.

Can Syrian hamsters eat bananas?

There are actually a number of different types of hamsters that are commonly kept as pets. However, Syrian hamsters are one of the most common.

So if you’re wondering, “Can hamsters have bananas?” then you are probably wondering specifically about a Syrian.

The answer is yes, Syrian hamsters can have bananas — but in reasonable amounts.

Can dwarf hamsters eat bananas?

Dwarf hamsters are another common pet. They too can eat bananas and have similar nutritional needs to a Syrian hamster.

However, remember that dwarf hamsters are small and their portion sizes should be extra small.

Don’t feed a dwarf hamster as much banana as you would a Syrian hamster. Again, the right portioning is important.

Can hamsters have banana chips?

What about dried banana chips? Can hamsters have dehydrated bananas?

One of the most important things to note about banana chips, and dried fruit in general, is that there are often additives that go into the dehydration process.

If you want to give your hamster banana chips, look for all-natural chips with no additives. Even better, just make it yourself!

Remember to limit servings to a small amount.

Can hamsters have banana peels?

Just like the bananas themselves, there is nothing poisonous to hamsters in a banana peel.

And since hamsters love to nibble on anything in front of them, they might be just as happy about a little piece of peel as they are about the banana itself.

But the same applies here: only in moderation and best as a treat!

Can Bananas Treat Constipation in Hamsters?

Constipation can be a real problem for hamsters. It could be because the hamster ate its bedding, or it could be a sign of something more serious, like tapeworms or a condition known as intussusception.

Some advocate eating fruits like bananas to treat constipation. However, it’s always wise to speak to your veterinarian right away if you notice any signs of constipation.

It is important to identify the cause of constipation in hamsters in order to treat it in a timely manner.

Can baby hamsters eat bananas?

What about baby hamsters? Hamster pups should eat solid food for up to three weeks after birth. Until then, they are mainly dependent on the care of their mother.

Once the puppies are old enough, you can try adding a little banana to their complete diet.

However, remember that bananas should not replace the other foods they need, especially as they continue to grow.

Can Hamsters Eat Bananas Every Day?

Since bananas contain so many vitamins that hamsters need, you might consider giving your hamster large amounts of bananas even on a daily basis.

While bananas are not toxic to hamsters and contain many beneficial vitamins, they do not contain everything a hamster needs to survive.

A hamster needs a complete, balanced diet to lead a healthy life. Bananas alone don’t provide that.

Instead, bananas should only be given as a reward and in very small amounts.

Although they contain many useful ingredients, we must remember that hamsters are very small. A banana should really only be a snack, which is a very small amount for a hamster.

Banana Treats

Since you have the all-clear on giving a hamster bananas as a treat, what kind of bananas will you go for?

Freshly sliced ​​banana

Banana with skin on

Dried Banana Chips

Baby Bananas

Fruit salad with bananas

Alternatives to bananas for hamsters

Or maybe you’re more interested in alternatives than bananas for your hamster. Here are some to consider.

All of these follow the same rules as bananas for hamsters – they are safe in small, reasonable portions, do not replace a full diet and can be given as a treat.

Can Hamsters Eat Bananas Summary

The answer to “can hamsters have bananas?” is yes!”

As we have seen, eating a banana is not a problem for your hamster as long as it is portioned appropriately. Bananas contain many of the nutrients that hamsters need and they go well with their diet.

However, bananas do not contain everything a hamster needs and only need to be given in small amounts.

Did you give your hamster bananas? Let us know your experiences with hamsters and bananas in the comments below.

References and further reading

Cheese has been associated with rodents for ages, and cartoons have a lot to do with it. Do rodents really love cheese? Some do, and hamsters are rodents that tend to enjoy a variety of snacks and treats, which often include cheese. But is cheese healthy for hamsters? Cheese may be safe in small amounts, but there are better snacking options for hamsters.

Is Cheese Good for Hamsters?

Cheese may be safe for hamsters in small amounts but is not an essential part of their diet.

Hamsters are omnivores that can enjoy a wide variety of foods. In the wild, hamsters tend to eat seeds, grains, grasses and occasionally insects. Fortunately, complete and balanced commercial diets are available to ensure pet hamsters are getting everything they need. Hamster food usually comes in pellets or mixes and usually contains grains, seeds, vitamins and minerals.

In general, hamsters should eat at least 50% commercial hamster food and up to 50% raw vegetables to stay healthy. Many fresh raw vegetables are good for hamsters, including kale, spinach, dandelions, and broccoli. You can eat small amounts of fruits like apples and bananas. Other healthy treats include pasta, rice, and seeds. Small amounts of unsalted nuts work well. Hamsters don’t need large amounts of fat, sugar or salt in their diet, so foods with these should be avoided. They do not require dairy in their diet, so technically there is no need to ever offer cheese to a hamster.

Many hamsters love the taste of cheese, but its high fat and sodium content is not particularly healthy for hamsters. If your hamster likes cheese and seems to be able to tolerate it well, you can occasionally offer it in small amounts. Hamsters should be fed no more than a pea-sized amount of cheese once or twice a week. Choose a low-fat, low-salt cheese like low-fat cottage cheese or mozzarella. Avoid greasy or salty cheeses like aged cheddar, parmesan, and processed cheese products. Never offer your hamster “mold” cheeses such as Stilton or blue cheese as these can be harmful.

If your hamster loves cheese, it can be a great option for training and oral medication. Just remember to feed it sparingly.

Side effects of feeding hamsters cheese

Cheese is not toxic to hamsters. Too much cheese, however, can lead to health problems.

Some hamsters tolerate cheese and other dairy products well, while others suffer from lactose intolerance. Hamsters may vomit and/or have diarrhea after eating cheese or other dairy products. If you are unsure whether your hamster can tolerate cheese, start with small amounts of cheese and see how your hamster handles it. If no diarrhea or vomiting occurs, gradually work your way up to a pea-sized amount of cheese at a time.

Hamsters can become overweight if fed too much cheese, especially if the cheese is high in fat. Too much salt (from cheese or other salty snacks) can cause dehydration and kidney problems in hamsters.

Don’t give your hamster too much cheese; He may try to put it in his cheek pouches and bring it back to his habitat for storage. It won’t be long before the cheese goes bad. Hamster lovers often enjoy seeing those sweet chubby cheeks completely stuffed, but some foods (like sticky cheese) can get stuck in the cheek pouches.

What to do if your hamster has too much cheese?

Mistakes happen, and you may find that your hamster has eaten more than its fair share of cheese. Overeating cheese once or twice is unlikely to harm a hamster, but it’s always important to watch for signs of illness such as lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea and loss of appetite. Be sure to consult an exotics veterinarian if you are concerned about your hamster’s health.

Hamsters tend to save their food for later, so extra cheese may be in their cheeks or anywhere in their habitat. Check your hamster’s habitat and bedding for hidden cheese stashes and discard them. If you’re in doubt about feeding your hamster cheese, it’s probably best to avoid it altogether and choose a healthier type of treat.

Aside from giving your hamster its staple diet of timothy hay and commercially produced hamster chow, you should occasionally add healthy fruits and vegetables. However, not all foods that are healthy for humans are good for your hamster, including several types of fruit.

But what about oranges? Are Oranges Safe to Feed Your Hamster? Although oranges are non-toxic to guinea pigs, it’s best to eliminate them from the menu. In this article we take a look at everything you need to know about feeding this delicious citrus fruit to your hamsters. Let’s start!

Potential benefits contained in oranges

We all know oranges for the large amount of vitamin C they contain, but there are a few other benefits as well. Oranges also contain soluble and insoluble fiber, which aids in digestive function, as well as vitamin A for eye health and vitamin B6 to keep blood pressure under control.

Are Oranges Good for Hamsters?

While oranges are certainly good for humans because they’re packed with vitamin C, they’re also very acidic, so they’re not good for your hamster’s delicate digestive system. Oranges and all other citrus fruits have high acid levels that can cause serious stomach problems, digestive problems, and even diarrhea. This acid can also cause serious dental problems and quickly damage your hamster’s teeth. Oranges are also high in sugar, and too much sugar can cause dental problems and even lead to diabetes in hamsters.

The same goes for other fruits in the citrus family, including lemons, limes, tangerines, and grapefruit. All of these fruits are very acidic and should be eliminated from your hamster’s diet entirely.

What about orange peels?

Many hamster owners give their hamster dried orange peels as they are a tasty, fibrous treat to chew on. While dried peel is certainly better than fresh oranges and a lot less acidic, we still recommend avoiding citrus altogether, just to be safe. That said, if your guinea pig enjoys it and you give him scrubs in moderation, there shouldn’t be much of a problem. Just be sure to remove the shells once your hamster has chewed all of the white pith and reached the skin itself. This white pulp is packed with fiber and shouldn’t cause your guinea pig any stomach upset.

What fruits can hamsters eat?

Aside from citrus fruits like oranges and lemons, which are highly acidic, many other fruits are safe and healthy to give your hamster an occasional treat. Just remember that all fruit is high in sugar and too much sugar can quickly lead to obesity or diabetes in hamsters, so be sure to only give them fruit in strict moderation. Also, make sure the fruit is as fresh as possible and washed thoroughly first. Safe fruits to occasionally treat your hamster with include:

How often can hamsters eat fruit?

Since most fruits are high in sugar and should not be a regular part of your hamster’s diet, you should limit fruit intake to no more than three or four times a week. Make sure you remove any fruit from their cage that hasn’t been eaten in 24 hours, as they can go rancid quickly and cause stomach problems. Again, make sure the fruit is as fresh and clean as possible.

Final Thoughts

While oranges are non-toxic to hamsters and small amounts should not cause harm, it is best to leave them out of your hamster’s regular diet. That’s because oranges, like all citrus fruits, are very acidic, which can cause both digestive and dental problems, and they’re high in sugar, which no guinea pig should have too much of. Although there are several potential nutritional benefits from eating oranges, these can easily be obtained from other sources and your hamster won’t be missing out by not eating them!

Next on your reading list: Can Rats Eat Oranges? What you need to know!

Featured Image Credit by: Jennifer Hyman, unsplash

13 steps to tame your hamster without getting bitten

When I first got my teddy I knew very little about hamsters so I made a few mistakes when taming him. Here I want to show you what you need to do to make sure you tame your Hammy and not get bitten in the process. My teddy bear is a Syrian golden hamster, but these instructions will work with any breed of hamster. However, be warned that the dwarf species are more difficult to handle and tame because they are so small. Table of Contents So how do you tame a hamster? What you should know before trying to tame your hamster Some breeds of hamster are more difficult to tame Be patient and consistent. Give the hamster some time. Make sure the hamster has enough space Annoy the hamster Make sure your hands are clean Make a habit of talking to your hamster Start by giving the hamster a small treat through the cage bars Put your hand in the cage, with a treat in your palmFeed the hamster from your hand dailyFeed some food in your other palm so it crosses over your handsGently pick up the hamster when you give him a treat in your palmpick the hamster higher and put yours other hand on himStart “walking” your hamster over your hands A word from Teddy So ​​how do you tame a hamster? In short, you can tame your hamster by building trust with him. Getting the hamster used to you, feeding him slowly from your hand and only touching him for a short time at first is a good start. Most hamsters get scared when you pick them up, so you’ll need to adjust to this slowly over the course of a few days or even weeks. This is the most basic and important information I can give you about taming a hamster. Everything else is just patience. But I’ve given you a guide to everything you need to know and do when trying to tame your hamster. Here’s a quick overview, and we’ll cover each entry in detail in the rest of the article. Give the hamster some time, it can take a couple of weeks. Make sure the hamster has enough space in its cage and a hiding place. Get your hamster a running wheel for all his energy. Don’t tease the hamster, they are not easygoing like puppies Make sure your hands are clean before handling the hamster. Make a habit of talking to your hamster. First, give the hamster a small treat through the cage bars. Place your hand in the cage with a treat on your palm. Feed the hamster from your hand daily. Place some food in your other palm so that it crosses over your hands. Gently pick up the hamster when you put a treat in your palm. Lift the hamster higher and place your other hand over it. Start Walking Over Your Hands With Your Hamster We’ll cover each item on this list, let’s talk a little bit about hamsters. They aren’t bred like dogs to trust people from the start, and they won’t jump at you to show affection. So reading a hamster’s reactions will be different than any other common pet. This is another reason to take things slow and make sure you have enough patience with your furry friend. What you should know before attempting to tame your hamster A few things to keep in mind and it’s for your own good and that of the hamster. Keep in mind that hamsters are very different from many pets and seem aloof most of the time. Some Breeds of Hamsters Are Harder to Tame In fact, almost every hamster species other than the Syrian is harder to tame. This is because they are so very small and will not sit still for very long. Smaller hamsters, like the dwarf hamsters, are fast, very hyperactive and some of them are almost impossible to house, more on that in this article on Syrians vs. dwarfs. This means if you try to pick up your Hammy, it will jump off and scurry away faster than you can move. It also means they won’t stay in your hands for more than a few seconds, so you need to keep moving your hands. This will make it much easier for the hamster to fall out of your hands and could injure itself. There is also the problem of short-term memory. Dwarven types can forget interactions within 24 hours, so it’s best to interact with them daily. Syrians have longer memories and will remember you for up to a week. Still, all hamsters need constant stimulation. Be patient and consistent Taming your hamster will take time. It may take a few days or it may even take a few weeks. It depends on several factors, but it’s mostly the hamster’s personality and your patience. It’s true, there are some hamsters who never want to be touched. And there are hamsters that get scared very, very easily and shy away from you. If that’s the case with your Hammy, there’s not much you can do. They each have their own personality. My teddy, for example, is not the cuddliest ball of fluff. He’s curious and will come up to you, but doesn’t like being handled too much and won’t really let you pet him. He’s fine if you pick him up for a minute, but if he’s in his cage and you try to pet him – no. The point is that the process of taming your Hammy may take longer than expected. Or the end result may be different from what you wanted or expected. But it is important to be consistent and patient. Even after you’ve tamed your hamster, it’s important to continue touching and petting them, as well as talking to them. Hamsters can forget, so they need constant stimulation. Now let’s dive into the whole process and how to get started. Give the hamster some time. Your hamster may accept you quickly, or it will never bond with you. Keep trying and be consistent with the attention you give him. Keep in mind that dwarf hamsters may take longer to get to know you well enough. Syrians typically take less time to tame and are not as prone to biting or pinching. That being said, all hamsters will need some time to get used to you. The smell of your hand, your voice, everything takes some time to get used to. Go slowly, step by step, and don’t try to pick up the hamster once you’ve gotten it from the pet store. Instead, build on actually being able to hold your hamster. Start small by feeding your Hammy through the bars first until he becomes comfortable with your smell and associates it with “good.” Make sure the hamster has enough space. This is very important for a hamster. Actually for every animal. Space is their territory, and how free they feel affects how relaxed they are. So if your hammy is in a cramped, tiny cage — like the square, colorful ones they give you at the pet store — he won’t be a hammy. Even if it’s a dwarf hamster, it still needs a lot more space than these cages. For more information on choosing the right cage for your Hammy, see this article on the best cages. You will also get the minimum cage requirements and what to look for in a new cage. Your Hammy’s cage is important, and so is its hiding place. He’ll use that to… well, hide and sleep and eat and sleep some more. So it’s important that you actually provide your Hammy with a hiding place. Hamsters will use the litter in the cage if they have no other option, but they will not feel comfortable. For more information about a hamster’s hiding place and how to make sure you get a good hiding place, you can read this article. Get your hamster an exercise bike for all his energy Hammies need lots of exercise. Especially the smaller breeds like Robo, Campbell and Siberian are always on the move. Chinese and Syrians can become lazier as they age. A hamster with a lot of pent-up energy will not be easy to handle, will bite you and is likely to squirm in your hand a lot more. So it’s in your best interest to give your hamster plenty of exercise. He needs to know where and how to roam as hamsters can travel up to 9 km/5.5 miles in a whole night. Imagine keeping that hamster locked up! Here you can learn more about a hamster’s usual running routine and why it needs to run in the first place. And you can also find out more about running wheels for hamsters in this article. Don’t Annoy the Hamster It’s important to remember that hamsters aren’t like other pets. They don’t take pranks or jokes well because they are easily startled and take everything seriously. They have to if they want to survive. So seemingly harmless things like pulling at his whiskers or an ear or suddenly waking up will not be welcome. Unfortunately, hamsters are much more serious than puppies, who will forgive you if you shut up. It’s best to leave the hamster alone, he’ll come out of hiding when his time is up. So don’t try to tease or tease the hamster in any way. After all, you are trying to build a good relationship with him. He is supposed to trust you, and his trust is very fragile. Make sure your hands are clean Hamsters are very sensitive to smells, so your smell is very important. This also means that they are very sensitive to anything that is on your hands. Maybe moisturizer, or maybe you just peeled an orange, or you touched a tube of sanitizer. In any case, wash your hands thoroughly. Opt for an unscented or very, very lightly scented soap when handling your hamster. Overly floral or fruity soap — if it smells particularly sweet — will trick your hamster into thinking you actually have vanilla and coconut on your hands. The hamster itself is very clean, so washing your hands afterwards is not a problem. I still recommend washing your hands after handling the hamster, but it’s not mandatory. Make a habit of talking to your hamster. Your Hammy will also recognize your voice as it is also sensitive to noise. So by making sure your hamster recognizes your voice, you make the taming process a lot smoother. You can do this by talking to your Hammy every time you see him. He won’t look like he’s going to react, but hamsters aren’t very expressive. Trust me when I say he’s listening to you, especially when he gets closer or looks your way. Choose a soft, deep voice as his ears are very sensitive and there is no point in being loud around him. Talking to your hamster also helps disarm some weird moments. For example, if he suddenly freezes or is a bit scared of you. Lowering yourself to his level and talking to him will make you look a lot less menacing. Start by giving the hamster a small treat through the bars. The steps before this one were more to set the tone for your hamster. This is the first thing you need to do to show your hamster that you mean no harm. So bring a treat for your hamster, it can even be something as simple as a sunflower seed or a peanut. It needs to be big enough that you can hold one end of it and your hamster can grab the other end through the bars. Your Hammy approaches, sniffs the treat and immediately gets to work. His love of food will outweigh his fear of you and he will grow closer. He might even touch your finger with a paw. This may seem like a small thing, but it is actually your first contact for your hamster! Do this often throughout the day and continue to do this after you have tamed your hamster. It will help keep your bond tight. Here is a concise list of what hamsters can and cannot eat. You will also find out which treats are also available for hamsters. Place your hand in the cage with a treat on your palm. This is the biggest step you will take. Your hamster has never had your hand in its cage. He will ignore it for a long time if you just put it there. He also becomes curious and comes to sniff and nibble. And if you’re not used to it and he’s not careful, a bite may occur. So it’s best to reach into his cage with a treat in the palm of your hand and just leave it there for a few minutes. Your Hammy will come right away to examine it. He’ll recognize your scent but probably doesn’t trust you just yet. You may see funny things like your hammy straining his neck to get the treat but not touching your hand. He’ll give in one day and actually put a paw on your hand. Whoa, big move! Feed the hamster from your hand daily Give your hamster food from your hand as often as possible. You can even hand your Hammy his full portion of food. A full portion for a Syrian is 2 teaspoons of dry food and one teaspoon for midget types. This is for a daily feeding. If you hand feed him every day, you will feel his paws on your hand more and more often and realize that they are cold. This is normal for them and they are fine. Be careful because if your hammy is about to finish eating from your hand, he will grab the lines of your hand. That’s where the food will collect and your Hammy will look for it. He may nibble your hand a little, but he doesn’t bite. Unless you suddenly pull your hand away in shock, in which case you will startle him, and he will definitely bite. (If you like this article so far, you can pin it to your Pinterest board by clicking the image below. Article continues after image.) Put some food in your other palm so it crosses over your hands . Now you can try putting some food or more food in the other hand. So if you put your one hand in your hamster’s cage with some food, he will touch it. He might even climb it. Then place your second hand next to your other hand with some food. Your Hammy will learn to walk over your hands like this and will trust you. Repeat this one more time, many times throughout the trail and it may take a while but your hamster will learn to trust you. If you want, you can even use your hands to build some kind of board for your hamster to walk on. Just put a bit of food at the end farthest from your hamster so he almost has to cross both hands to get his food. Gently pick up the hamster when you put a treat in your palm. Once you’ve familiarized your hamster with each step up to this point, you can try gently picking him up. Do this in his cage or glass container and don’t pick him up. The reason for lifting your hamster just a few inches off the ground is to get him used to the movement. Hamsters startle very easily so he needs this training part. Place your palm in the cage with some food, and when your hamster has climbed into your hand, slowly lift the hand. Your hamster will likely walk away as soon as he feels your hand moving, that’s okay. Keep trying. That’s why he needs training. You may find it jumps off your hand if you hold it up for more than a few seconds. So make sure you bring him back in a short time. Lift the hamster higher and put your other hand on it. If your hamster is used to everything by now, then great. This step will be a bit more challenging for him as you won’t be putting him down anytime soon. Once your hammy is secure in your hand, place your other hand on top of it and lift it higher than usual. Only do this for a short time and not very quickly. It will be new to your Hammy so make sure he is comfortable with every step up to this one. Make sure both hands grip the hamster securely when you pick it up. If the hamster falls from a higher place, it will hurt itself. So it’s best not to hold him up for too long. Start walking your hamster over your hands Once your hamster is comfortable, you can start moving your hands so he can walk over it. It looks like you’re washing your hands. Do this in your hamster’s cage first, as it will likely move faster than you think. You need to make sure that when your hamster jumps out of your hands, it lands somewhere soft, like in its cage. And that was the final step in training and taming your hamster. If he’s comfortable being picked up and runs over your hands when you hold him, he’s pretty tame. Now all hamsters are nervous and won’t sit still, so don’t judge your Hammy too harshly because it won’t stay still in your hand. If he wants to be let go, it will be obvious and he might just jump. So always be very close to or above your hamster’s cage. A word from Teddy I know it can be a bit difficult to tame one of us Hammies. But it’s worth it when you talk to us and we look you straight in the eye. I certainly don’t like being touched for more than a minute, but maybe your Hammy loves hugs, who knows? We all have our own personality. If you want to learn more about us Hammies, you can check out the articles below. You’ll find information on how much water we hamsters need, what room temperature we need to be comfortable, and even why we eat our own poop! …

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