Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? The 41 Latest Answer

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What fruit is poisonous rabbits?

While feeding small amounts of many fruits’ flesh is perfectly safe, the seeds and pits from many fruit varieties contain trace amounts of cyanide. Apples and pears are the most notorious examples, but the pits from apricots, peaches, plums, and mangos also contain cyanide, as do cherry pits.

Can rabbits have cranberries or raisins?

However, what’s healthy for humans may be poisonous to rabbits, so it’s worth double-checking first. Raisins are safe for bunnies to eat. They are packed with nutrients and minerals that can even give your rabbit a health boost. However, because they are high in sugar, raisins should only be fed sparingly.

Can rabbits have cranberry juice?

Therefore you can supplement rabbits healing from urinary tract disease with cranberry tablets based on their vitamin C content at 25 to 50 mg of vitamin C per pound of body weight one to two times daily. Do not use cranberry juice cocktail, which has very little cranberry juice and in addition are loaded with sugar.

What food kills a rabbit?

Foods that can harm or kill your rabbit
  • Chocolate. Just as it is to dogs, chocolate is a big no-no for bunnies. …
  • Avocado. Synonymous with millennial culture, avocados contain a chemical called persin. …
  • Yoghurt Drops. …
  • Iceberg lettuce. …
  • Rhubarb. …
  • Seeds, pits and pips. …
  • Cereal. …
  • Hamster food.

What is the most common cause of death in rabbits?

The researchers found that the most common causes of death recorded by veterinary surgeons were flystrike (10.9% of pet rabbits), anorexia (4.9%), collapse (4.9%) and gut stasis (4.3%). The average lifespan of pet rabbits was 4.3 years, although survival up to 14.4 years had been recorded.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

The Royal Veterinary College has released the latest results from its VetCompass programme, this time identifying the most common medical problems and causes of death in pet rabbits1.

The study analyzed data from 6,349 rabbits that visited 107 veterinary clinics across the UK.

The researchers found that the most common causes of death recorded by veterinarians were fly infestation (10.9% of pet rabbits), anorexia (4.9%), collapse (4.9%) and intestinal obstruction (4.3%). .

The average lifespan of pet rabbits was 4.3 years, although survival rates of up to 14.4 years have been recorded. Male rabbits tend to live longer, averaging 5.2 years, than females, averaging 3.7 years.

The most common medical problems are overgrown nails (16%), overgrown molars (7.6%), dirty butts (4.5%), overgrown front teeth (4.3%) and intestinal congestion (4.2%). Many of these problems are related to inappropriate housing or feeding. However, the researchers also point out that the fact that rabbits evolved as prey animals hasn’t helped owners and veterinarians. Evolution has meant that rabbits can disguise outward signs of illness, making them less likely to be attacked by predators, but this also makes it harder for owners to tell their rabbit is ill until it’s often too late.

Researchers hope this new study will help owners and veterinarians prioritize which signs of illness to monitor.

Other findings were:

Male rabbits are more likely to have overgrown claws, overgrown molars, overgrown incisors, and dental disease than females.

The average age of pet rabbits presented to veterinarians in this country is 3.2 years.

The average adult body weight of rabbits presented to a veterinarian is 2.1 kg.

dr Dan O’Neill, VetCompass Researcher and Senior Lecturer at the RVC, said: “For years, rabbits were considered the perfect pet for children: fluffy, cute, passive and requiring only minimal care and handling while being fed granola-like food in a hutch garden, where it was mostly kept singly.

“We now know that this level of care is totally unacceptable from an animal welfare perspective. This new paper can further improve the lives of rabbits by helping owners and veterinarians to recognize the common health problems faced by rabbits and therefore prioritize the most important management factors that will make our rabbits even healthier. Rabbits don’t show their suffering like other species, so it’s our duty to prevent and recognize their problems.”

dr Jo Hedley, VetCompass researcher and lecturer at RVC added: “This study definitely highlights some of the most common manifestations observed in pet rabbits. Unfortunately, due to the rabbit’s ability to mask disease, signs of a problem are often non-specific and detected far too late, so recorded causes of death are often only end-stage symptoms of an underlying disease. Many of the most important medical problems are still problems that we can address through proper husbandry , diet and health checks should be able to completely prevent . Better owner education is needed if we are to improve rabbit health and welfare for years to come.”

Relation

vet record. https://doi.org/vetrec-2019-105592 O’Neill DG, CRAVEN HC, BRODBELT DC, CHURCH DB & HEDLEY J 2019. Morbidity and Mortality of Domestic Rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) under primary veterinary care in England.

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Can bunnies eat peanut butter?

11. Peanut Butter. Like walnuts, peanut butter—which is also high in fat—should be avoided. The creamy snack will do nothing for rabbits, except possibly give them a tummy ache.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

March 17, 2017 by Katherine Sullivan Last updated October 14, 2019. Published by

Rabbits have a specialized digestive system. Their unique ability to process fiber and nutrients makes them adaptable to many different environments, but their unique digestive system means their guardians have to be extra careful when feeding them.

A number of foods can upset rabbits’ digestion and harm their health. There are also a few foods – some of which are surprising – that are potentially toxic to them. Check out our list of 15 foods you should never feed your rabbit:

1. Yoghurt drops

According to Rabbit.org, research suggests that yogurt candy can contribute to fatal cases of enterotoxemia, “a toxic overgrowth of ‘bad’ bacteria in the intestinal tract.” If you’re looking for a healthy treat to feed your rabbit, try green peppers or Brussels sprouts.

2. Bread, pasta, cookies and crackers

These high-carb, sugary treats will really only “treat” your rabbit’s stomach problems. Avoid foods high in sugar or artificial ingredients as these — like yogurt candy — can potentially lead to enterotoxemia.

3. Avocado

When you think of ideal rabbit snacks, chances are fresh fruits and vegetables come to mind. However, avocados should never be included in your rabbit’s diet. According to Small Pet Select, this fatty fruit can be fatal if ingested by a rabbit.

© iStock.com/Zelenenka

4. Grain

Feeding your rabbit grains — such as granola, a processed food made from flaked corn, peas, pellets, grains, and seeds — can cause dental and stomach problems.

5. Iceberg lettuce

This may come as a shock, but you should avoid feeding your rabbit light-colored lettuce, including iceberg, as this may contain lactucarium, a chemical that can be harmful to your rabbit’s health if ingested. Iceberg lettuce is also mostly water and adds little to no nutrients to a diet.

6. Silver Beet

Like iceberg lettuce, silver beet — sometimes referred to as Swiss chard — is another leafy green that your rabbit should avoid. According to a veterinary center in New Zealand, the vegetables can cause your rabbit to suffer from colic and bloating and should be replaced with fibre-rich fruits, vegetables and herbs. Radishes, alfalfa, and rosemary are great options.

7. Hamster food

We get it. You may have more than one animal companion, and perhaps you were hoping to feed two birds with one hand, so to speak. But while rabbits need a special high-fiber diet — think high-quality timothy hay, fresh vegetables, and herbs — hamster food will do little to nothing for your rabbit’s diet.

8. Walnuts

Walnuts are high in fat, not fiber, which can cause uncomfortable digestive upsets in your rabbit. If you’re looking for a healthy snack to feed your rabbit, try fresh vegetables or herbs.

9. Oatmeal

While feeding rabbits oatmeal won’t do them much harm, it’s not an ideal meal. Rabbits need large amounts of timothy hay, hearty vegetables and fresh water – oatmeal does nothing to improve their nutritious diet.

10. Chocolate

Chocolate is an absolute taboo for bunnies. As with companion dogs, chocolate has no place in your rabbit’s diet. The sweet treat can be toxic to rabbits and should never be fed to them.

11. Peanut Butter

Like walnuts, peanut butter — which is also high in fat — should be avoided. The creamy snack will do nothing for rabbits except possibly give them a tummy ache.

12. Potatoes

Although potatoes do not necessarily poison rabbits, this man-loved vegetable is not ideal for them. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates and starches, both of which can cause problems for your rabbit’s digestive system.

13. Rhubarb

This common garden plant can be poisonous to animals if eaten raw. If a rabbit eats raw rhubarb, it could die, although this is rare, according to the RSPCA.

14. Meat

Some of you are probably wondering, “Seriously?” We’re just making sure we cover all our bases! Rabbits are herbivores, which means they eat plants. Wild rabbits wouldn’t eat meat, and neither should your domesticated housemate.

15. Cauliflower

Cauliflower is a vegetable, so it would make a perfect healthy snack for your bunny, right? Surprisingly no. Although vegetables are an ideal complement to the high-fiber hay required to feed rabbits, cauliflower causes rabbits to become bloated and gassy. If you want to give your rabbit fresh vegetables to nibble on, consider green peppers, beets, or radishes.

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Hungry for more rabbit facts?

Did you know that rabbits can be trained to litter? Or that you should never pick up a rabbit with just one hand under its belly? Click here to learn more about these bunny facts and many others.

Interested in rescuing a bunny companion?

Rabbits are the third most abandoned animal in shelters. Remember these three words: Adopt – don’t shop! If you are looking for a long term relationship with an animal, please visit your local animal shelter and save a life.

Can rabbits eat cheerios?

The occasional five pieces of Cheerios is fine, but serving your pet rabbit a bowlful of Cheerios can have unpleasant effects. When taking care of pet rabbits, it is important to remember that their diet should always consist of hay, green leafy vegetables and rabbit pellets.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

There really is a big difference between asking “Can I feed my rabbit Cheerios?” and “Can my rabbit eat Cheerios?” Rabbits can eat as many Cheerios as they can, as they have a natural tendency to gravitate toward absolutely anything chew whatever there is laid down in front of them. Especially if you have kids who like to feed their bunnies anything for breakfast, allowing your bunnies to eat Cheerios shouldn’t be a cause for panic. However, intentionally feeding rabbits Cheerios should always be a cause for concern, and frequency should be within the pet owner’s control as much as possible.

Can I give my rabbit Cheerios?

Yes, but as sparingly as possible and in small portions.

The occasional five-pack of Cheerios is fine, but serving your pet rabbit a bowl of Cheerios can have unpleasant effects. When keeping pet rabbits, it’s important to remember that their diet should always consist of hay, green leafy vegetables, and rabbit pellets. You can serve straw instead of hay to your pet rabbit, but straw contains significantly fewer nutrients than hay. You can reserve straw for your pet rabbit’s bedding and consider grass hay or legume hay as a core part of your pet rabbit’s diet. Be careful to avoid mold and spot yellowish stalks in the hay you buy as all of these can lead to sclerosis on your pet rabbit’s liver. If mold and yellowish stalks go undetected in your large haystack, it can lead to the death of your pet. Fruit should only be given in small amounts and as a reward along with Cheerios.

Your pet rabbit may not show any signs of digestive upset when you feed them Cheerios, but since Cheerios are made from processed grain products; It might not be a good idea to have Cheerios as the main treat you give your pet rabbit. Rabbits eat grain, but once grain is processed (especially when making Cheerios), grain inevitably loses its natural nutritional value. What’s the point of feeding your house rabbit a food that has absolutely no nutritional value? Plus, Cheerios aren’t just made from processed grains. In fact, it’s largely made up of sugars, complex starches, and artificial colors and food fortifiers. Sugars, complex starches and artificial strengtheners when fed in excessive amounts to rabbits can be a cause of loose stools, indigestion, diarrhea, bloating and gas formation. All of these probable causes are uncomfortable for both the pet rabbit and its owner.

Aside from feeding Cheerios as treats as sparingly as possible, you can also serve your pet rabbit other grain-based snacks like wheatberries, oatmeal, and wheat crackers. If there is an alternative to treats filled with natural grains, you can give your pet rabbit pellets. Pellets are available from pet stores and you can be sure that your pet rabbit will love to chew on them. However, an even better alternative to treats to give your pet besides Cheerios and pellets is fruit. Fruits contain fresh vitamins and minerals that your pet rabbit can benefit from. If you have a garden in your yard where you grow different types of fruit, your pet rabbit can help himself to portions of fruit as he roams the area. Examples of fruits that you can serve your pet bunny as treats include apples, blueberries, bananas, strawberries, tomatoes, peaches, and plums, just to name a few. A top of carrot, a few pieces of raisins, or a small portion of banana peel can be excellent treats to give to your pet rabbit.

Another rule when it comes to feeding treats to pet rabbits sparingly is that the amount should also be portioned out. Just as we should keep our portions small with our desserts like cake, ice cream, and potato chips, pet rabbit snack treats should also be in the smallest portion or size possible. Eventually, if you give treats with no significant nutritional value like Cheerios, you’ll miss an opportunity to feed your pet bunny something healthy that his or her little body can utilize. At the end of the day, it’s important that the general diet you strictly follow for your rabbit is a balanced distribution of hay, green leafy vegetables, and clean water, with treats making up a very small percentage of the whole.

What berries can rabbits eat?

Fruit to feed your rabbit (one or two times a week): Apple (no seeds) Banana. Berries: blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, cranberries.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

What should pet rabbits eat? Contrary to popular belief, rabbits need more than just carrots and lettuce. They need a balanced diet of hay, fresh vegetables and fruit, and some pellets. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive tracts, so switching to hay or pellets or introducing new fruits and vegetables must be done gradually to allow the rabbit’s system to adapt.

Hay: A rabbit’s staple diet

The bottom of a rabbit food pyramid would contain long-stemmed fiber in the form of hay, which makes up 80 to 90 percent of a rabbit’s diet. As grazing animals, rabbits need an unlimited supply of fresh hay every day.

You will want to feed your rabbit grass hay. Good types of grass hay for rabbits include timothy, orchard, brome, and oat hay. You can feed your rabbit one type or a mix of different types of grass hay. Buy fresh hay if possible and look for mold or dust that could make your rabbit sick.

Alfalfa hay is not a good choice for an adult rabbit as it is a legume rather than grass and as such is too rich to feed daily. Alfalfa can be given to rabbits occasionally as a treat. Rabbits under one year old can be fed alfalfa hay, but as they get older they should be switched to grass hay, especially if they are also fed alfalfa pellets.

Pellets: Feed a rabbit in small amounts

Timothy hay pellets can be given to rabbits in small amounts. An average sized (6-10 pounds) adult rabbit will only need a quarter cup of pellets daily. If your rabbit weighs less than five pounds, feed only one-eighth of a cup. Rabbits larger than 10 pounds need no more than 1/4 cup, as this is not a crucial part of a bunny’s diet.

Rabbits under one year old can be fed alfalfa pellets. Be sure to feed grass hay (instead of alfalfa) when feeding your young rabbits alfalfa pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber – the higher the better. Also note that many foods marketed to rabbits are not actually healthy for them and can sometimes be harmful so please read the ingredients. Do not buy rabbit pellets that have dried corn, nuts, and seeds added to them as these foods can potentially be very harmful to rabbits.

Vegetables: A rabbit’s favorite food

Rabbits count vegetables and herbs among their favorite foods. Most vegetables found in a supermarket are safe for rabbits, with some caveats and exceptions. (See the list of foods to avoid below.)

Adult rabbits should not be fed more than two cups of fresh vegetables per day. Miniature breeds and rabbits under five pounds should only be fed one cup of fresh vegetables per day. A choice of two or three vegetables is ideal. Add a new vegetable at a time and watch for signs of loose stools or diarrhea as, as mentioned above, rabbits have delicate digestive systems. Certain vegetables can be given every day, while others should be fed sparingly once or twice a week.

Don’t feed your rabbit potatoes, corn, beans, seeds, or nuts. These foods are difficult for rabbits to digest and can cause serious digestive problems.

Vegetables that can be fed to a rabbit daily:

paprika

Bok choy

Cauliflower

carrot tops

cucumber

endive

escarole

fennel

Herbs: basil, coriander, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme

Lettuce: Romaine, Green Leaf, Red Leaf, Boston Bibb, Arugula, Butter

okra leaves

radicchio

radish tops

Sprouts: alfalfa, radish, clover

watercress

wheatgrass

zucchini

Vegetables and plants to give a rabbit sparingly (once or twice a week):

Broccoli (stalks and leaves only)

carrots

chard

shamrock

collards

Dandelion Green (No Pesticides)

Flowers: Calendula, Chamomile, Daylily, Dianthus, English Daisy, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pansy, Rose

Kale

spinach

Fruit: Give to a bunny once or twice a week

Fruit should be given to your rabbit once or twice a week. A reasonable serving is one to two tablespoons of fruit (either one type or a mix) for every five pounds of body weight. Like vegetables, fruit should be introduced slowly and one at a time.

Fruit to feed your rabbit (once or twice a week):

apple (without seeds)

banana

Berries: blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, cranberries

Cherries (without pits)

Grapes

melon

nectarine

orange

papaya

peach

pear

pineapple

plum

watermelon

Treats: Feed rabbits sparingly

Like many people, many rabbits have a sweet tooth. As with humans, treats are at the top of the food pyramid for rabbits and should therefore be fed sparingly. Healthy treats for your rabbit include small pieces of fresh or freeze-dried fruit (the permitted fruits listed above); natural, unprocessed mixtures containing hay and dried flowers (the permitted flowers listed above); and Oxbow brand rabbit treats.

Always read the ingredient list of store-bought treats, as not all are safe for bunnies. Avoid treats that contain added sugar, preservatives, and artificial colors, and never give your rabbit human treats.

Foods to Avoid Giving a Rabbit

Some foods are definitely not good for rabbits as they can make rabbits extremely sick. Here are foods you should avoid giving your rabbit entirely:

All human goodies

beans

beet greens

cabbage

cauliflower

Muesli

chocolate

Treats made from corn or corn on the cob

cracker

iceberg lettuce

legumes

mustard green

nuts

pasta

Peas

potatoes

rhubarb

seed

sugar

Kohlrabi

yogurt

Freshwater: Unlimited supply for a rabbit

Finally, rabbits need to stay hydrated, so they should have an unlimited supply of fresh water that should be changed daily. The water tank should be cleaned with soap and water every few days. Water bottles are not easy to clean and can be difficult for rabbits to use, so bowls are better. A heavy ceramic bowl is ideal as it won’t tip over easily.

Additional rabbit information and resources

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Can bunnies have pineapple?

Adult rabbits can eat pineapples, however, it is only recommended in moderation as pineapples are high in natural sugars and could lead to painful and trapped gas or bloating. It is best to feed your rabbit pineapple as a sweet surprise as it is full of nutrients, but also tastes like a special treat!

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

One thing all rabbit owners should understand is that they tend to have sensitive tummies and you really need to watch their diet. We’re going to dig a little deeper into what a rabbit can and can’t eat, but now you need to know: Can rabbits eat pineapples?

Adult rabbits can eat pineapple, but only moderation is recommended as pineapples are high in natural sugars and can cause painful and trapped gas or bloating. It’s best to feed your rabbit pineapple as a sweet surprise, because it’s packed with nutrients but also tastes like a special treat!

To learn a little more about how fruit, and pineapple in particular, can affect your rabbit’s digestion and what to ensure in their daily diet for a happy and healthy rabbit, read on! We have all the information you need.

How often ; How Much Can Rabbits Eat Pineapple?

Research has shown that there is a schedule that you should stick to when feeding your rabbit pineapple, as well as how much is actually good for them and not harmful.

We recommend the following:

Baby rabbits should never be fed pineapples as their stomachs are too sensitive.

Only feed your adult rabbit 1 teaspoon of pineapple, especially when introducing it into their diet.

You should only use pineapple once or twice a week as a special treat.

You can increase the amount of pineapple up to 1 tablespoon if you’re sure it won’t cause gas or diarrhea.

It is important to note that these instructions are for a healthy rabbit. If you want to know how to tell if the pineapple is affecting the rabbit negatively, read on!

How can you tell if pineapple is upsetting your rabbit’s stomach?

If you think about where a rabbit is common in nature, the habitat usually contains long grasses, not tropical fruits. It’s important to understand that while pineapples can be a healthy treat, they shouldn’t make up a large part of a rabbit’s diet.

If you decide to offer your rabbit a little pineapple every now and then, be sure to monitor their secretions for 24 hours after ingesting the fruit. If you notice diarrhea, your stomach probably cannot handle the exotic fruit.

You can also tell if your rabbit is gassy because you will hear a soft gurgle coming from their tummy after eating. As your rabbit’s caretaker, it is your responsibility to determine if the pineapple is causing him any discomfort. Rabbits aren’t quite as conscious as humans and even if it upsets their gut, rabbits will continue to eat pineapple when offered it because it tastes so sweet and delicious!

What can I give my rabbit if he’s having trouble digesting pineapple?

If you’re a good and observant rabbit owner and have found that even half a teaspoon of pineapple seems to upset their stomach, there’s no need to forego sweet treats for them! There are a variety of other fruits and vegetables you can try, but we recommend following the same protocol and starting with extremely small amounts and then paying attention to their gases and secretions to make sure they’re not causing any discomfort.

Here are some popular product options that are safe to feed your rabbit:

apples

bananas

celery

cucumber

carrots

Leafy vegetables

pumpkin

blueberries

cabbage

Again, these should be used as a special treat and not as the main part of your rabbit’s diet. As you most likely know, their diet will consist primarily of pellets, grass and hay.

It’s also important to know the fruits and vegetables that can be extremely harmful to your rabbit! These include: stone fruit such as plums, peaches and avocados as well as potatoes, beans and mushrooms.

What Food Should You Feed a Rabbit With an Upset Stomach?

You may find that your rabbit has gas or diarrhea from time to time, even if you are extremely careful about their diet. If your rabbit seems unwell or their poop is abnormal, there are a few things you can feed them to help combat the problem, but pineapple is not one of them.

As we’ve learned, the sugar in pineapple can make a rabbit’s stomach aggravate it, so it’s not recommended as a remedy for digestive problems. However, you can feed your rabbit leafy greens, carrot tops, dandelion greens, and herbs like parsley, cilantro, or basil to help.

Final Thoughts

Rabbits, like most humans, love a little sugar! If you put a plate of fruit in front of them, they will most likely eat it all, but shortly thereafter, they will likely experience extreme physical discomfort.

You are the conscious adult in this relationship and it is important that you are aware of what fruits and vegetables your rabbit can and should eat, and at what frequency and in what amounts is healthy.

Let’s reiterate what we learned here today: adult rabbits can eat pineapples, but baby rabbits can’t! It should be served in extremely small amounts (½ to 1 teaspoon) to begin with and gradually increased to a maximum of 1 tablespoon if you do not notice any diarrhea or gurgling sounds of gas coming from your rabbit’s abdomen. Although your rabbit doesn’t seem to have any problem with pineapple, it should only be given once or twice a week as a special treat and never on the same day as other sugary snacks.

You are now an expert when it comes to feeding your rabbit pineapples! And hopefully you also understand a little more about which fruits and vegetables are good for them, how often they are rewarded with fresh produce, and how to use them as medicine for their upset stomach!

Why does Bunny pee turn white?

Whereas dogs and cats will only absorb the amount of calcium their body needs from their diet, rabbits absorb all of the calcium within their diet and excrete the excess through the urinary system. This is why rabbit urine is often observed as being cloudy or white in colour.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

Blood in the urine is also known as hematuria.

True hematuria can occur anywhere in the genitourinary system due to disease. An unneutered female rabbit may have a bloody discharge from her vulva or drips of blood after urinating, which could be mistaken for urine; Both could be a sign of uterine cancer. An unneutered male rabbit could have genital cancer or trauma that could cause blood to appear in his urine, either way you should take your rabbit to your vet immediately.

Other causes or hematuria can be caused by limestone or sludge anywhere in the urinary tract system (kidneys, ureters, bladder, or urethra), cystitis, polyps, or even abortion. All of these conditions require urgent veterinary attention as most are painful and life-threatening to the rabbit if veterinary attention is not sought promptly.

When we see red urine, most of us worry about a bladder or urinary tract infection. However, actual blood in the urine is usually difficult to see with the naked eye. With kidney disease, there may be no effort to urinate, but exertion is the most common sign of bladder disease.

A rabbit struggling to urinate adopts an unusual posture, that is, it sits on the tips of its hind paws for an unusually long time, with its tail very high in the air. If you notice your rabbit straining, you should change the litter box immediately so you can determine whether or not it is producing urine.

Cloudy/white urine

Rabbits metabolize calcium very differently than other mammals such as dogs and cats. While dogs and cats only absorb the amount of calcium from their diet that their bodies need, rabbits absorb all of the calcium from their diet and excrete the excess through the urinary tract. Because of this, rabbit urine is often observed to be cloudy or white in color.

Passing cloudy urine may be normal in rabbits fed a calcium-rich diet or in rabbits that are mildly dehydrated. However, rabbits fed a high-calcium diet are much more likely to develop stones or sludge buildup in their urinary system, which often requires corrective surgery and may be impossible to fix.

Therefore, it is recommended that rabbits are not given calcium supplements unless specifically directed to do so by a veterinarian, and that they are not fed excessive amounts of alfalfa hay or calcium-rich vegetables; Carrot tops, spinach, watercress, kale or black cabbage, etc.

Why is rabbit wee white?

White or milky urine

Sometimes rabbits will excrete a white, milky substance with their urine. This is just excess calcium that your rabbit doesn’t need. It will dry into a chalky white substance. Rabbits are very efficient in the way they absorb calcium from their food.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

Everyone pee! And that includes rabbits. And just like humans, rabbit urine can vary in color and consistency depending on diet and fluid balance. But what about red urine? Or white pee? This can not be normal, right?

Normal rabbit urine can range from a yellow color to a golden orange. Red, brown, or white urine is worth checking with and discussing with your vet, but again, these can be completely normal for your rabbit. The real danger comes when you see any small sand-like particles or blood in your urine, as this can be an indication of larger health problems.

You’re probably reading this because you’re concerned that something is wrong with your rabbit’s urine. So let’s go through all the characteristics of normal peeing and when it’s time to visit the rabbit doctor.

Did you know? Rabbit droppings also tell you a lot about their overall health.

Find out everything you need to know about rabbit poop.

color of rabbit urine

Rabbit pee can be many different colors and still be healthy. Usually, rabbits pee between 2 and 8 times a day and it is golden yellow or amber-orange in color.

The color will be slightly darker and more concentrated when your rabbit is dehydrated. And it frequently changes color based on a rabbit’s diet. For example, if your rabbit has a lot of carrots one day, his urine might be a brighter orange than usual.

Normal rabbit urine is usually a little cloudy and not entirely clear. Rabbits excrete excess calcium along with their urine. But if the urine looks excessively cloudy or cloudy, that’s a sign of a more serious bladder condition.

Golden, amber, red, and clear urine are all possible colors of your rabbit’s urine. Brown or dark urine usually means your rabbit is a little dehydrated. White “urine” is just calcium deposits and nothing to worry about. Bladder sludge is when you see sediment or sand-like particles in your rabbit’s urine and this is a cause for concern. Blood in the urine is extremely rare, but you’ll know it’s present when it’s patchy rather than uniformly red.

Rabbit Urine Color Chart

Yellow This is normal urine. Orange This is normal urine, but your rabbit may be slightly dehydrated. Try to encourage them to drink more water. Red Usually nothing to worry about. This is likely caused by the food in your rabbit’s diet. The color usually returns to normal within a week. Brown Possibly dehydrated, encourage your rabbit to drink more water. Transparent This is normal pee. If your rabbit’s urine isn’t usually clear, see if their drinking habits have changed. Excessive drinking can be a sign of kidney problems in rabbits. Red Spots This could be a sign of blood in your rabbit’s urine. However, it could also come from your rabbits’ food. Check with your veterinarian to see if there are any health issues that need treatment. White Occasional white discharge is normal in rabbits. This is how your rabbit releases excess calcium from its food. If this is a frequent occurrence, consult your veterinarian to make sure there aren’t any underlying conditions to be concerned about. Cloudy If your rabbit has cloudy or chalky urine, it’s a sign of bladder stones or a urinary tract infection. It is best to take your rabbit to the vet as soon as possible.

Red urine – when is it bad?

In most cases, if your rabbit has red urine, there is nothing to worry about. While not necessarily a “normal” rabbit urine color, this is rarely a sign of health concerns.

If the rabbit pee is an even, consistent red color (light or dark red), it is almost certain that the coloring is not from blood. It is rare for rabbit urine to contain blood, but when it does, the blood appears in patches rather than uniformly throughout the urine.

What are the main causes of red rabbit urine?

Antibiotics: Sometimes rabbit urine changes color when they are given antibiotic treatment.

Sometimes rabbit urine changes color when given antibiotic treatment. Cold Weather: When the temperature first starts to drop in the fall, some rabbits will inexplicably have red urine for a few days.

When the temperature first starts to drop in the fall, some rabbits will inexplicably have red urine for a few days. Diet: If a rabbit’s diet is high in beta-carotene (carrots, spinach, etc.) or red berries (strawberries, raspberries, etc.), their urine may turn red in color.

Hydrogen Peroxide Test

If you’re still concerned that there might be blood in your rabbit’s urine, or the color hasn’t returned to a gold or amber color after a few weeks, you can perform a hydrogen peroxide test to determine if there’s blood in your rabbit’s urine.

Get a sample of your rabbit’s urine and pour a little hydrogen peroxide on it. Hydrogen peroxide shouldn’t react to plain urine, but if blood is present, the mixture will start to foam.

Orange or brown urine

Orange or brown urine is usually nothing to worry about. This could be a perfectly normal urine color for your rabbit, but it could also mean that your rabbit is a little dehydrated.

In general, a darker, more concentrated urine color is a sign that your rabbit is not drinking as much. But if your rabbit isn’t showing any signs of stress, then this isn’t an emergency. However, it is probably beneficial to encourage your rabbit to drink more water

Here are some ideas to help your rabbit stay hydrated:

Switch to a water bowl instead of a water bottle. It’s easier for a rabbit to drink from a bowl, so they’ll usually drink more if you give them their water like this.

. It’s easier for a rabbit to drink from a bowl, so they’ll usually drink more if you give them their water like this. Give your rabbit fresh leafy greens. Leafy greens contain a lot of water in their composition, so eating fresh greens helps with hydration. To encourage your rabbit to drink even more water, leave a few extra drops of water on the green after washing it.

. Leafy greens contain a lot of water in their composition, so eating fresh greens helps with hydration. To encourage your rabbit to drink even more water, leave a few extra drops of water on the green after washing it. Fill your rabbit’s bowl with cool water a few times a day. Refreshing your rabbit’s bowl with fresh, cool water can renew your rabbit’s interest in it. So if you’re concerned that your rabbit is dehydrated, try refreshing the water a few times a day.

Refreshing your rabbit’s bowl with fresh, cool water can renew your rabbit’s interest in it. So if you’re concerned that your rabbit is dehydrated, try refreshing the water a few times a day. Use a fountain with running water. You can buy a pet water fountain that will keep the water flowing constantly. This can be more interesting for rabbits and helps the water taste fresher.

You can buy a pet water fountain that will keep the water flowing constantly. This can be more interesting for rabbits and helps the water taste fresher. Add a few drops of aroma to the water. You can try adding a little unsweetened apple or carrot juice to their water bowl. This can sweeten the taste a bit so your rabbit will like it better.

White or milky urine

Rabbits sometimes pass a white, milky substance in their urine. This is just excess calcium that your rabbit doesn’t need. It dries to a chalky white substance.

Rabbits are very efficient in the way they absorb calcium from their food. In fact, they typically have much higher blood calcium levels than most other animals that we keep as pets. They absorb as much calcium as they can from their food and then excrete the excess through their kidneys and urine.

So it’s perfectly normal to occasionally find a white spot in your rabbit’s litter box. However, if you find this to be a very common occurrence, it may be time to take a look at your rabbit’s diet and cut back on some of the calcium-rich foods.

If you are feeding your adult rabbit alfalfa hay or pellets, consider switching to timothy-based alternatives. Alfalfa is very high in calcium, making it ideal for young, growing rabbits. But it’s a little too nutritious for healthy adult rabbits.

If your rabbit is excreting calcium frequently, you should also speak to your vet to see if they would like to do any tests to make sure your rabbit is not developing any health problems.

Bladder sludge and bladder stones

Two of the most common urinary tract diseases in rabbits are bladder stones and the associated bladder sludge. Bladder stones occur when clumps of excess calcium harden and form stones in the kidney and ureters. Bladder sludge is similar, but consists of thickened calcium that never quite forms into stones.

Both conditions can be painful for a rabbit. If left unchecked, these can lead to much more dangerous conditions. Bladder stones or sludge can also be a sign of a bladder or kidney infection. If you notice these signs, it’s important to get your rabbit to the vet as soon as possible. Your vet can run some tests and determine the best treatment approach for your rabbit.

Signs of bladder sludge and bladder stones

When a rabbit starts to develop bladder sludge, the signs are very few and it is difficult to spot. But as the condition progresses, you may notice a combination of these signs:

Peeing more often than usual. Your rabbit may be peeing more than usual, but it seems like it’s only going a little at a time. A healthy rabbit will pee between 2-8 times a day, so it’s best to compare this to your own rabbit’s urinating habits.

Your rabbit may be peeing more than usual, but it seems like it’s only going a little at a time. A healthy rabbit will pee between 2-8 times a day, so it’s best to compare this to your own rabbit’s urinating habits. Urinating outside of the litter box. If the rabbit is litter box trained, peeing outside the crate could be a sign of bladder problems. Rabbits that have not been neutered may spray other areas in the house, but if your rabbit is normally good potty trained, this could be a cause for concern.

If the rabbit is litter box trained, peeing outside the crate could be a sign of bladder problems. Rabbits that have not been neutered may spray other areas in the house, but if your rabbit is normally good potty trained, this could be a cause for concern. Dripping piss. If you see your rabbit dribbling urine or seeming unable to control their bladder, this is a sign of bladder sludge or stones.

If you see your rabbit dribbling urine or seeming unable to control their bladder, this is a sign of bladder sludge or stones. Having trouble peeing or not peeing at all. If your rabbit holds up its tail and sits in a position where it tries to pee but only manages a little, this is a big indication of bladder sludge or stones. They may look like they are constipated when this happens, but more often it is due to difficulty peeing than pooping. If your rabbit cannot pee at all, you should treat it as an emergency. It’s possible that a bladder stone has completely blocked your urethra.

If your rabbit holds up its tail and sits in a position where it tries to pee but only manages a little, this is a big indication of bladder sludge or stones. They may look like they are constipated when this happens, but more often it is due to difficulty peeing than pooping. If your rabbit cannot pee at all, you should treat it as an emergency. It’s possible that a bladder stone has completely blocked your urethra. mud in the urine. Mud makes the urine look cloudy and cloudy. After drying, it leaves a rough, grey, chalky residue and can even have the consistency of sand. The mud often leaves marks on the rabbit fur around the hindquarters.

Mud makes the urine look cloudy and cloudy. After drying, it leaves a rough, grey, chalky residue and can even have the consistency of sand. The mud often leaves marks on the rabbit fur around the hindquarters. scalding in the urine. Urine scald is a rash that occurs with prolonged contact with urine. A rabbit with bladder problems may urinate excessively, causing its hindquarters and hind legs to get wet with urine. Over time, the skin becomes irritated and a urine-caused rash occurs.

causes

Although doctors are unsure of the exact cause of bladder stones, there is a link to these risk factors that may be why a rabbit develops this condition.

Genetics. Sometimes rabbits just have bad genes, making them more likely to produce bladder stones or sludge.

Sometimes rabbits just have bad genes, making them more likely to produce bladder stones or sludge. Not drinking enough water. Staying hydrated keeps the urine less concentrated and makes it easier to flush out the excess calcium in the rabbit’s body. If your rabbit doesn’t drink enough water, it can lead to a buildup of calcium in the kidneys, making it difficult for it to pass through the kidneys.

Staying hydrated keeps the urine less concentrated and makes it easier to flush out the excess calcium in the rabbit’s body. If your rabbit doesn’t drink enough water, it can lead to a buildup of calcium in the kidneys, making it difficult for it to pass through the kidneys. lack of exercise. When a rabbit sits still all day, calcium crystals are more likely to form. Inactivity also causes a rabbit to drink and pee less often, giving the calcium more time to form crystals in the urinary tract.

When a rabbit sits still all day, calcium crystals are more likely to form. Inactivity also causes a rabbit to drink and pee less often, giving the calcium more time to form crystals in the urinary tract. unsuitable habitat. A rabbit cage that is too small can result in a rabbit being less active. If their enclosure is not cleaned frequently, some rabbits will be reluctant to use the toilet because they want to keep the area clean. You will urinate less often and cause calcium crystals to form.

A rabbit cage that is too small can result in a rabbit being less active. If their enclosure is not cleaned frequently, some rabbits will be reluctant to use the toilet because they want to keep the area clean. You will urinate less often and cause calcium crystals to form. kidney disease. Sometimes bladder stones and sludge are a symptom of a more serious kidney disease.

Sometimes bladder stones and sludge are a symptom of a more serious kidney disease. bladder disease. Bladder stones and sludge can also be caused by infection, tumors, or inflammation in the bladder.

Bladder stones and sludge can also be caused by infection, tumors, or inflammation in the bladder. Diet rich in calcium. A calcium-rich diet can sometimes contribute to the formation of bladder stones and sludge, but is usually not the sole cause.

prevention

Some rabbits will develop bladder stones no matter what we do to prevent them. But there are still steps we can take to make this condition less likely for our rabbits at home:

Encourage your rabbit to drink more water. Drinking water keeps urine flowing and prevents it from becoming too concentrated. So do what you can to make sure your rabbit stays hydrated.

Drinking water keeps urine flowing and prevents it from becoming too concentrated. So do what you can to make sure your rabbit stays hydrated. Removing alfalfa-based foods from the diet. Alfalfa-based foods are high in calcium and are generally not recommended for a healthy adult rabbit (although young rabbits are fine). Check the ingredients in your rabbit’s pellets and switch to a timothy-based mix instead.

Alfalfa-based foods are high in calcium and are generally not recommended for a healthy adult rabbit (although young rabbits are fine). Check the ingredients in your rabbit’s pellets and switch to a timothy-based mix instead. Feed plenty of fresh leafy greens. Fresh leafy greens are good for keeping a rabbit healthy and hydrated.

Fresh leafy greens are good for keeping a rabbit healthy and hydrated. promote movement. Being active keeps a rabbit’s body moving and the juices flowing. It also encourages your rabbit to drink more water.

Being active keeps a rabbit’s body moving and the juices flowing. It also encourages your rabbit to drink more water. Clean your rabbit’s litter box daily. A clean litter box will encourage your rabbit to continue using it regularly.

A clean litter box will encourage your rabbit to continue using it regularly. Annual veterinary check-ups. Taking your rabbit to the vet for a check-up once a year can help you catch signs of illness early.

Urinary Tract Infections in Rabbits

The other common urinary tract problem in rabbits is urinary tract infection (UTI), also known as cystitis. A UTI is when the bladder becomes inflamed due to a bacterial infection. Urinating becomes uncomfortable or even painful for the rabbit.

If you think your rabbit has a UTI, take them to the vet. Your doctor may run some tests to determine the cause of your rabbit’s symptoms and prescribe antibiotics to treat the infection.

Signs of urinary tract infection in rabbits

The symptoms of a urinary tract infection appear to be very similar to the symptoms of bladder sludge in rabbits. In fact, the two can often occur at the same time, as the accumulation of bladder sludge is sometimes the main cause of a bladder infection.

Symptoms to look out for include:

Pee more often, but only a little at a time.

Constipation when trying to urinate.

Thick mud in pee.

scalding in the urine

Grunts when trying to pee

Lose weight.

Hesitation to move.

blood in the urine.

causes

UTIs are caused by a buildup of bacteria that inflame or block the bladder and urinary tract. The cause of the infection can usually be traced to one of two origins. The first and most common is when bladder stones or sludge in the ureters become blocked or clot, causing everything to back up and bacteria to build up. The second and much rarer cause is when the ureters are injured, usually by a cancerous growth.

prevention

Luckily, the steps to prevent UTIs are pretty much the same as the steps you should take to prevent bladder sludge build-up:

Make sure your rabbit has fresh, clean water.

Feed your rabbit fresh leafy greens.

Make sure your rabbit gets exercise.

Clean your rabbit’s litter box daily.

A rabbit that is litter box trained may pee outside the litter box if it sprays to claim its territory or protests an unclean litter box.

Pee outside the litter box

Even if your rabbit is litter box trained, you can still see them pee outside. Sometimes this is for medical reasons, especially if you notice that your rabbit is just peeing and drooling a little here and there. But peeing outside the litter box isn’t always indicative of a medical emergency.

spray

Unneutered rabbits are notorious for spraying urine around the home to claim their territory. This behavior is more common in male rabbits but is also seen in female rabbits. Rabbits try to spray on vertical surfaces more often than on flat surfaces, but this is not always the case. It just depends on your rabbit’s personality.

The only way to really stop your rabbit from spraying the whole house is to have it fixed. Having your rabbit spayed or spayed can fix a number of behavioral problems and is better for their overall health.

Pee on your bed

There are many stories of rabbits hopping onto their owner’s bed and scampering across the sheets even when they’ve been fixed. Not all rabbits do this, but it’s surprisingly common. I believe rabbits do this because your bed is covered in your scent. When the rabbit hops onto the bed, its territorial instinct kicks in and it has to pee to claim the bed.

I haven’t found a good way to prevent this behavior. So if your rabbit likes to pee on the bed, you might want to consider banning them from the bed entirely. Otherwise, you will very often clean up sheets stained with urine.

Protest against a dirty litter box

The other time I’ve noticed rabbits tend to pee outside of their litter box was when the litter box needs cleaning. In these cases, the rabbit will usually pee right next to the litter box. Your rabbit likes to be clean, so they will try to limit the soiled area of ​​their cage to just one spot. But if the litter box is too messy, they will be forced to do their business outside of it.

The obvious solution to this is to make sure you clean your rabbit’s litter box daily. This will improve their litter box habits and is a preventive measure against UTIs and urinary scalds.

Read more: How to remove rabbit urine stains

Is rabbit pee supposed to smell bad?

Unfortunately, rabbit urine has a very distinctive smell. Rabbit urine is relatively high in ammonia, so it smells like diluted ammonia. This is generally the only strong odor a house rabbit will have. So once you’ve learned how to deal with rabbit urine, you no longer have to worry about the smell in your house.

A few steps to prevent your house from smelling like rabbit pee:

Have your rabbit spayed or neutered. A restrained rabbit’s urine smells a little less.

Clean your rabbit litter box every day. This will prevent the urine odor from building up.

Use a HEPA air filter.

Is rabbit urine harmful to humans?

For most people, there is no reason to be afraid of rabbit urine. Practicing basic personal hygiene by washing your hands after handling rabbit urine is all you really need to do.

However, some rabbit pee contain a microorganism fungus called E. cuniculi. Many rabbits are carriers of it and shed spores in their urine. Although technically possible, infections are extremely rare in people with healthy immune systems. However, E. cuniculi could pose a risk to people with AIDS or otherwise compromised immune systems.

Sources:

Ackermann, Sandi; Deeb, Barbara, DVM. “Red urine: blood or plant pigment?” House Rabbit Society, rabbit.org/journal/3-1/red-urine.html. Braun, Susan, DVM. “Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits.” House Rabbit Society, Sept. 2006, rabbit.org/health/urolith.html. Krempels, Dana, Ph.D. “Urine Scalding: A Symptom of a Greater Problem.” University of Miami Biology Department, House Rabbit Society of Miami, www.bio.miami.edu/hare/urinary.html. “Rabbit Bladder Problems.” Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund, rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rabbit-health/rabbit-bladder-problems.

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Why is my bunnies pee thick?

Rabbits need calcium for strong teeth and bones, but only in small amounts. Too much calcium thickens up inside your rabbit’s body. This is why her pee is so thick. The first warning sign is cloudiness, or traces of chalky residue.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

In an ideal world, rabbit pee will always be yellow. But there is no such thing as a healthy color for rabbit urine. Rabbit pee is constantly changing color. Factors like diet, hydration, and stress levels affect the appearance and texture of Rabbit Wee.

As long as rabbit pee is clear, your rabbit is healthy. Cloudy or chalky urine of any color is a sign that your rabbit has too much calcium in their blood. Red rabbit urine is rarely related to blood, but dilute pink urine and/or red spots can be a sign of hematuria.

Your rabbit’s urine should not change regularly. Additionally, focus more on the consistency of the urine than the color. The most important thing is that the urine is clear and easy to pass.

What is a healthy rabbit pink color?

Cloudy urine is an early warning sign of too much calcium in your rabbit’s diet. Changing your rabbit’s diet at this stage will not harm them. If you ignore cloudy urine, it will eventually become muddy and chalky.

You rarely have to worry if your rabbit’s urine is red. While it’s normal to assume it’s blood, that may not be the case. It’s more likely to be pigmentation from your rabbit’s bladder.

Don’t ignore odd urine colors in your rabbit’s litter box. If their urine is an odd color over a long period of time, take your rabbit to the vet. If it changes regularly, it is natural.

Rabbit Urine Color Chart

Rabbit urine comes in a wide range of colors, as explained by Greendale Veterinary Diagnostics. Don’t be surprised if your rabbit urinates in different colors throughout the day. The table below summarizes the meaning of the different pee colors:

Light Yellow Light yellow urine means your pet is healthy. It is eating and drinking well and does not appear to have any health concerns. Milky yellow rabbit urine that has a milky yellow tint is the first warning of calciuria. Your rabbit’s urine may also appear milky white in this case. Change your rabbit’s diet. If it eats alfalfa hay, switch to timothy or meadow hay. Red Red urine is the result of pigment in your rabbit’s bladder. Certain foods and plants can cause this, as can antibiotics. Even cold weather, if it comes on suddenly, can cause red urine. If his urine stays red for several days, this is unusual. Pink Pink urine indicates that your rabbit may have traces of blood in its urine. The blood diluted by urine causes this pink hue. There is a chance that this is caused by something your rabbit has eaten, e.g. E.g. strawberries or cranberries. Excess dietary calcium could be to blame. Brown bladder pigment usually causes brown urine. If the shade of brown is deep and rusty, see the red urine section. Double check that your rabbit is not constipated. When they have an intestinal blockage, fecal matter backs up in their system. Rabbits can’t vomit, so it won’t be eliminated that way. Orange If your rabbit’s urine looks orange, it may be dehydrated. Check if your pet is drinking enough water. When your rabbit is dehydrated, their urine becomes much more concentrated. Pigments that color your pet’s urine can also cause this hue. White If your rabbit’s urine is clear, it’s likely he just drank a lot of water. Excessive water consumption can be a sign of kidney problems in rabbits.

The best way to check your rabbit’s urine is to use a white litter. In this way, the urine will visibly stain the litter. It is much easier to determine the color of urine from it than hay.

My rabbit’s urine comes out as sludge

Urine sludge often means your pet has calciuria. This is a health condition caused by the excessive consumption of calcium. Left untreated, calciuria can become dangerous for rabbits.

When your rabbit eats calcium, it is filtered by the kidneys. Anything that counts as excess is excreted as urine. Rabbits need calcium for strong teeth and bones, but only in small amounts.

Too much calcium will thicken up in your rabbit’s body. That’s why her piss is so thick. The first warning sign is cloudiness or traces of lime residue.

If your rabbit has this problem, you can treat it at home. These are mainly dietary changes:

Stop feeding your rabbit pellets. These are made from alfalfa, which is high in calcium and low in fiber.

If your rabbit eats alfalfa hay, remove it from their hutch. Adult rabbits do not need this hay. Your pet can eat unlimited timothy or meadow hay, use this instead.

Look for calcium-rich fruits and vegetables. Lettuce, spinach, kale, and soybeans should be fed sparingly. Never combine two or more of these ingredients in the same serving.

, spinach, kale and soybeans should be fed sparingly. Never combine two or more of these ingredients in the same serving. Encourage your rabbit to get more exercise. This gives your kidneys a kick start and helps them filter out excess calcium effectively. This minimizes the risk of internal damage.

If you follow these steps, your rabbit’s urine should return to normal. However, this depends on how severe the calciuria is. In some cases, your rabbit’s urine may have hardened in the urinary tract. This causes bladder infections and bladder stones.

These health conditions are painful for rabbits. Bladder stones can cause a blockage. A vet will prescribe a course of antibiotics that will quickly eliminate the problem.

Another explanation for muddy urine is dehydration. If your rabbit hasn’t had enough water, their body will have trouble getting rid of it. Encourage your rabbit to drink more. Dehydration can be life-threatening in small animals.

Does my rabbit have a urinary tract infection?

If your rabbit’s urinary habits seem a bit unusual, they may have a UTI (urinary tract infection). These become more common as a rabbit reaches middle age. This is usually between 3 and 5 years. A UTI is usually the result of a bacterial infection. They can be caused by:

obesity . Sedentary lifestyle can also lead to UTIs, especially if your pet rarely leaves their coop.

. Sedentary lifestyle can also lead to UTIs, especially if your pet rarely leaves their coop. Low-fiber diet. A rabbit that eats more pellets than hay is always at risk of urinary tract infection.

. A rabbit that eats more pellets than hay is always at risk of urinary tract infection. Emphasize . This may be due to a change in routine or being placed in a stall that is too small.

. This may be due to a change in routine or being placed in a stall that is too small. Excess calcium or other vitamins. Be aware of any supplements you feed your rabbit. Mix up food and treats to ensure it has plenty of variety.

. Be aware of any supplements you feed your rabbit. Mix up food and treats to ensure it has plenty of variety. Unhygienic living conditions. If you don’t clean your pet’s hutch regularly, they will wallow in their waste. That attracts bacteria.

. If you don’t clean your pet’s hutch regularly, they will wallow in their waste. That attracts bacteria. An inability to urinate. This could be a blockage in the urinary tract, such as bladder stones.

A UTI can be painful for your pet. The most common symptoms are:

Thick, muddy urine.

traces of blood in the urine.

Incontinence, especially outside of the litter box.

Small droplets of urine, seemingly constantly.

Scalding urine around legs and tail.

around the legs and tail. Regular attempts to urinate with no success.

If your rabbit has a urinary tract infection, it can be treated with antibiotics. However, make sure that the infection is not caused by a more serious condition. Sometimes a urinary tract infection is a symptom of another disease.

What does blood in rabbit urine mean?

If your pet’s urine is bright red, it’s unlikely to be blood. It’s minor traces of blood in the clear urine that are worrying.

Blood in the urine is called hematuria. This term refers to whole, intact red blood cells that leave the body through urine. To save time, try bringing a urine sample with you to your vet appointment.

Blood in a rabbit’s urine has several explanations. The most common reasons for bloody urine are:

Kidney stones or an injury/disease to the kidneys.

Bladder stones, cystitis, or crystals of urine in the bladder.

Excessive calcium intake.

trauma to the genitals.

blood clot.

Problems with the reproductive organs. This is common in middle-aged unneutered female rabbits.

diabetes

Cancer

You may also notice physical symptoms in your rabbit before it needs to urinate. Look for a bloated abdomen, an oversized blister, or bruising around the blister. These are all warning signs of bladder stones.

Treatment for this problem depends on the underlying cause. If it is an infection, antibiotics are usually sufficient. A more serious health problem may require surgery. If your rabbit has lost a lot of blood through urination, they may need a transfusion. This is rare, but it does happen.

Why does rabbit urine smell so bad?

When rabbit urine is allowed to fester, ammonia is formed. If your pet inhales this, it could damage its nasal passages and develop a runny nose.

Foul-smelling urine is not a sign of ill health in rabbits. You can control the strong smell of your rabbit’s urine by following the steps below:

Spay or neuter your rabbit. It is believed that restrained rabbits have weaker smelling urine. Teach your bunny to bedding and use absorbent, rabbit-safe bedding in his tray. Avoid scented litter. She will not urinate anywhere that smells bad to her. Line your rabbit’s litter box with hay. Rabbits like to eat while they go to the toilet. This way, your pet is more likely to confine their waste to one place. Clean and change your rabbit’s litter box at least once a day. You don’t have to clean the whole barn as often. However, watch out for urine-stained hay and remove it. Also check for urine under or around the litter box. Rabbits don’t always pee exactly. Use white vinegar when cleaning the litter box. This removes scent traces and limescale residues. Wash any vinegar from the tray before returning it to the stable.

Is rabbit urine harmful to humans?

Rabbit urine smells unpleasant, but not harmful. This indicates that rabbit urine can be handled safely. However, rabbit urine contains a potentially dangerous flaw.

This is known as Encephalitozoon cuniculi, or E. cuniculi for short. This bug is active in most rabbits. This will not necessarily bother your pet. Many rabbits live with this bug without harm. Your immune system fights it and excretes it through your urine.

A healthy adult is not normally infested with E. cuniculi. However, it will be children, the elderly or people with an existing medical condition. Anyone with compromised immunity should not handle rabbit urine.

Pet Care Veterinary Hospital explains what to do if you suspect your rabbit has E. cuniculi. When treatment is needed, it usually takes the form of antibiotics. Just be careful when cleaning your pet’s coop until this issue is resolved.

If your rabbit’s urine is clear and runny, it can be considered normal. The color is less important. Always be vigilant when treating cloudy or chalky urine. If ignored, it becomes painful.

Can rabbits have popcorn?

Not only is popcorn unsafe for rabbits to eat, but all forms of corn are bad for rabbits. Popcorn can pose a choking hazard in smaller rabbits, as well as health issues in rabbits of all sizes. Being indigestible to rabbits, popcorn can cause impaction and gastrointestinal stasis.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

Popcorn is a health hazard for rabbits. The same goes for fresh corn and corn kernels. There are many risks that make popcorn a food for rabbits to avoid. If you let your rabbit eat popcorn, you can give them empty calories that can lead to life-threatening conditions.

Not only is popcorn unsafe for rabbits, but all types of corn are bad for rabbits. Popcorn can pose a choking hazard in smaller rabbits, as well as health problems in rabbits of all sizes. Because it is indigestible for rabbits, popcorn can cause constipation and gastrointestinal stasis. Being high in carbohydrates, popcorn can also lead to weight gain.

All these health issues can lead to secondary problems. Severe cases of congestion can be fatal. If your rabbit found a few pieces on the ground and ate them, you don’t need to go to the vet. As long as it doesn’t choke, there’s a good chance your rabbit will pass the popcorn without a problem. Introduce extra grass hay and water into his diet to keep the digestive tract working.

Can rabbits eat popped popcorn?

A rabbit will eat popped popcorn when presented with some tempting morsels. However, a rabbit should not be fed popcorn. Owners should not allow their rabbits access to food, even accidentally.

Popcorn in any form is harmful to rabbits. It doesn’t matter if it’s popped, unpopped, seasoned, unseasoned, etc. Fresh corn, cooked or raw, is just as dangerous to rabbits.

As such, it should not be a treat or additive to your rabbit’s food. Even if they rarely chew seeds, that doesn’t protect them from the ill effects. Because popcorn is:

Full of empty calories

The shells of the kernels cannot be digested

Flavored popcorn is high in sugar and salt

Rabbits do not benefit from eating popcorn. It’s junk food. However, unlike human junk food, it can have an immediate impact on your rabbit’s health.

Of course, this depends on the individual case. If your rabbit eats a stray piece of popcorn off the floor, don’t panic. The core can easily pass through the rabbit’s digestive system. Just keep an eye on the rabbit and monitor for symptoms.

Is popcorn dangerous for rabbits?

Popcorn – and corn in general – is not toxic to rabbits. Besides that, it is dangerous for your rabbit to eat. It doesn’t matter how the popcorn is flavored or prepared.

This is mainly because rabbits cannot vomit. If a rabbit eats something it shouldn’t, it has no choice but to let the item pass through its system. This scenario is best avoided. Popcorn may not pass, which will lead to many other health issues.

Why is popcorn bad for rabbits?

Rabbits have a specific diet, 80% of which is grass hay. Rabbits have evolved digestive systems to deal with very specific foods. These foods may also contain certain herbs and vegetables. Corn on the cob or raw corn is classified as a vegetable. However, it is not a vegetable that rabbits can eat.

This is because a kernel of corn is a kernel. Rabbits shouldn’t be fed grain because their digestive acids aren’t strong enough to break down the tough exterior. The sharp shells of the seeds can even damage the stomach and intestines.

There are rumors that not only can rabbits digest grain, but it helps rabbits grow faster. A study in the Journal of Animal Science refutes such a claim. Many reputable sources of information also state explicitly that corn and popcorn should never be fed to rabbits. Corn, popcorn, or corn on the kernel are bad for rabbits for the following reasons.

gastrointestinal stasis

As noted in the Vet Record, gastrointestinal stasis is common in pet rabbits. This disorder occurs when the food substance stops or moves more slowly through the gastrointestinal tract. It is not usually caused by an obstruction but by a change in the delicate gut flora that inhabits the rabbit’s digestive tract. It can also be caused by an obstruction, when nutrients stagnate and break down in the gut.

Corn in any form, including popcorn, can be both the hindrance and the cause of bacterial disorders. Because rabbits have a hard time digesting this food, blockages can form in the intestines or cecum (the part of the intestine that makes cecotrope). Constipation or not, if the popcorn is regularly included in the rabbit’s diet, there may also be an imbalance in the gut bacteria.

This disorder has a snowball effect if left untreated. Rabbits stop eating when they are in stasis. This makes congestion worse by not ingesting fiber to get things going again. While corn does have some fiber, a rabbit cannot efficiently digest corn to extract the fiber.

Gastrointestinal stasis can be fatal. Relief from stasis includes medication to stimulate the digestive system, fluid injections, medication, and proper diet. Signs of gastrointestinal stasis are:

loss of appetite

Malformed or small fecal pellets

teeth grinding (a sign of pain)

(a sign of pain) No fecal pellets

Visible bloating

Crouched posture (keep stomach off the floor)

lethargy

Whether or not your rabbit ate popcorn, if you notice any of these symptoms, take your rabbit to the vet as soon as possible.

gas

A symptom of gastrointestinal stasis is bloating. Rabbits cannot vomit or even burp. So when matter blocks the intestinal passage, the gases build up. These gases are:

Those normally obtained as by-products of fermentation and digestion

Harmful bacterial colonies that are out of control and producing excess gas

Depending on the severity of the stasis or blockage, these gases literally cannot pass through the rabbit’s body. They will build to the point of severe pain and will not resolve until the stasis is released.

impaction

Popcorn, corn, and corn on the cob can all cause an impaction. Rabbits have a unique digestive system that allows them to digest a meal twice. Part of it is called the appendix, which creates cecotropes. This is what the rabbit eats to get all the nutrients from their food that they can get.

Since corn is indigestible, it causes all kinds of impact problems in the gut. This can lead to gastrointestinal stasis. Improper nutrition or eating indigestible matter are the main causes of impaction and stasis. Surgery may be required depending on the severity of the impaction.

No nutritional value

Popcorn does not offer any nutritional benefits to rabbits. Corn does contain fiber, but not nearly enough to help a rabbit. Even if it were, a rabbit’s digestive system isn’t capable of extracting the fiber anyway.

Popcorn is also relatively high in carbohydrates. A rabbit doesn’t need nearly as many calories per day as a human. If you regularly feed your rabbit popcorn, it will gain weight. This can lead to heart problems, joint problems, or obesity, which causes many problems of its own.

Even as a small treat, popcorn can cause your rabbit to gain weight. There are treat alternatives that are far better options and are perfectly healthy to offer a rabbit in moderation.

sugar, salts and oils

Aside from unseasoned air-fried varieties, popcorn is usually cooked in butter or oil and then seasoned. All of this will cause problems.

Sugar leads to weight gain and can also disrupt the intestinal flora to the point of GI stasis. A rabbit can experience both if they eat too much fruit, let alone eat pure sugary spices. Fresh corn is also quite sweet, which is due to its natural sugars.

Salts are another problem. A rabbit does not need salt licks like some other animals. With a proper diet of good quality food, a rabbit will get all the salt it needs from its diet. Salty popcorn provides your rabbit with way too much salt. If this type of popcorn is fed even semi-regularly, high sodium health problems will develop.

Oil and butter are in their own category. Rabbits cannot digest any of these foods. Therefore, stasis or other digestive problems are almost certain.

Can Rabbits Eat Popcorn Kernels?

Kernels are perhaps the riskiest of all forms of corn. The tough outer covering of the kernel, the pericarp, is part of what makes corn so difficult for rabbits to digest. Uncooked popcorn will almost certainly remain whole as it passes through the digestive tract. That is, if it passes through the tract and does not cause a blockage.

Another part of the outer shell is the tip cap. Although not always the case, this tip can easily be sharp and cause internal damage. Small rabbits can also choke on unpopped corn kernels.

Do rabbits like popcorn?

Rabbits can be very picky about food. Others like to eat whatever you put in front of them or whatever they can find. Popcorn can be one of the foods that a rabbit will eagerly devour.

Worryingly, there have been a number of instances of people feeding their rabbits popcorn. This leads unsuspecting owners to believe that rabbits can and should be fed popcorn or corn. They can’t, even if they seem to like it.

Rabbits usually like sweet foods, which is corn. Even though rabbits shouldn’t eat popcorn, you can safely assume they would enjoy it.

What to do if your rabbit eats popcorn

So, what if you accidentally fed your rabbit popcorn? What if it swiped a few bits out of your bowl on movie night? How to proceed:

Above all, prevent the problem from escalating. Remove leftover popcorn from the rabbit’s reach. Then try giving your rabbit some fresh grass hay. This should help your rabbit’s digestive tract to hurry up. Introduce extra fiber into the rabbit’s diet over the next few days. This will encourage it to pass through the popcorn.

Over the next week you should closely monitor your rabbit, its droppings and how much it eats. Any deviation below should warrant an immediate visit to the veterinarian.

How much your rabbit eats

The size and shape of his poop

The amount of poop (or lack of poop)

Uneaten cecotropes

His posture for signs of pain

gas

During this week you should also make sure that the rabbit still drinks and eats a lot of hay. This will make it easier for the popcorn to pass through. Since the pericarp is indigestible, you can even find it almost entirely between piles of feces. Remove them from the housing immediately.

Rabbits’ digestive systems are almost constantly in action. It will pass hundreds of pellets every day. A rabbit should give up any popcorn eaten relatively soon after eating. Still, it’s best to monitor the rabbit for problems between 3 days and a full week.

Does popcorn kill rabbits?

Popcorn can kill rabbits. This food comes with several dangers but no benefits, which is why it is important to avoid it.

Corn in any form (including fresh, popped, and kernel) is indigestible. It can potentially cause gastrointestinal stasis, impaction, weight gain and other health problems. Gastrointestinal stasis, if left untreated, can lead to severe bloating and organ failure.

Aside from these problems, popcorn and the kernels can pose a choking hazard in smaller rabbits. Overall, popcorn – and corn in general – should never be fed to a rabbit.

Can bunnies eat bananas?

Fresh, raw bananas can be consumed safely, but only in moderation. While bananas are rich in water, potassium, vitamin B6 and antioxidants, they’re also packed with starch and sugar. Too much sugar and starch in a rabbit’s diet can lead to digestive problems, an upset stomach, gas and diarrhea.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

Owners find rabbits particularly adorable when they’re eating something they particularly enjoy. Rabbits love bananas for their sweet taste, but are bananas safe food for rabbits?

Rabbits should not be fed a piece of banana larger than an adult human’s thumb. That’s because bananas are high in starches and sugars, which can put a strain on a rabbit’s digestive tract. Feeding rabbits excess fruit over a long period of time can lead to life-threatening health conditions such as gastrointestinal stasis.

Bunnies have a hard time stopping eating bananas once they get going. Treating a rabbit to sweet-tasting bananas can cause them to lose their appetite for healthier, more nutritious foods like leafy greens. Your rabbit may also get into the habit of begging for treats.

Are Bananas Safe for Rabbits to Eat?

Fresh, raw bananas are safe to eat, but only in moderation. While bananas are high in water, potassium, vitamin B6, and antioxidants, they’re also packed with starches and sugars.

Too much sugar and starches in a rabbit’s diet can cause digestive problems, upset stomach, gas and diarrhea. Sugar is also known to cause painful dental problems in rabbits that require veterinary attention.

Also, excess starch and sugars are converted to fat in a rabbit’s body. This can lead to unnecessary weight gain and obesity. Obesity is associated with a variety of debilitating issues, such as: B. pododermatite, GI stasis, pregnancy toxemia and myiasis.

Avoid feeding your rabbits overripe bananas, banana chips, banana treats, banana bread, and other prepared banana foods as they are often high in sugar, starch, sodium, and fat. Prepackaged foods that contain bananas contain preservatives, chemicals, artificial flavors, and added sugars, all of which can wreak havoc on a rabbit’s sensitive gut.

Stay away from overripe bananas

A banana’s ripening process is regulated by a natural compound called ethylene gas. Ethylene gas turns bananas brown and changes their texture, color, and flavor. When a banana produces ethylene gas, it also affects its nutritional value.

Bananas are made up of 80-90% resistant starch as part of their carbohydrate content. As bananas ripen, resistant starches are converted to free sugars.

Free sugar alters the beneficial gut bacteria in the digestive tract, causing loose stools, stomach pain, and other upsetting gut issues. In addition, when in excess, they are easily converted into fat, which leads to obesity.

Green tinted bananas have less free sugar. As such, they are slightly healthier than overripe or brown bananas.

But overripe bananas are still safe for rabbits as long as there are no traces of mold. The key is not to exceed the recommended amount.

How many bananas can rabbits eat?

The general guideline for the amount of bananas you can feed your rabbit is based on their weight. Rabbits should be fed no more than 2 tablespoons of bananas for every 5 pounds of their body weight, 2-3 times per week. As a general rule, you should never feed a rabbit a piece of banana larger than the size of your thumb.

When your rabbit is trying banana for the first time, don’t offer more than 1 tablespoon in a day. This is to ensure your rabbit doesn’t react negatively to the new food and if it does, you can effectively eliminate them. Always introduce new foods into a rabbit’s diet slowly to avoid unnecessary reactions.

Avoid offering bananas to rabbits younger than 12 weeks as their digestive tract is very sensitive. The table below shows how many bananas a rabbit can eat based on breed and body weight.

Breed Average weight of banana per serving (tbsp) Lionhead Rabbit 3.75 1.5 Flemish Giant 3.5 1.4 Dutch Dwarf 3.5 1.4 Dutch Dwarf 2.5 1 Continental Giant 18 7.2 Dutch Rabbit 4 1.6 Mini Rex 4.5 1.8 French rabbit 14 5.6 Polish rabbit 2+ 0.8 American rabbit 10 + 4 Californian rabbit 10+ 4 Beveren rabbit 12 4.8 English Lop 12 4.8

Health benefits of bananas for rabbits

Your rabbit’s diet should consist of hay, water, good quality pellets, and leafy greens. Anything beyond that, including fruits like bananas, is enjoyable and should only be given in small amounts.

If your rabbit can tolerate it, 2 tablespoons of fruit per 5 pounds of body weight can add more vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants to your pet’s diet.

Bananas are a rich source of nutrients that rabbits need for their growth and development. Some of them include:

potassium . Potassium is an excellent muscle relaxant for rabbits, helping to reduce stress and improve sleep. It’s also good for the heart.

. Potassium is an excellent muscle relaxant for rabbits, helping to reduce stress and improve sleep. It’s also good for the heart. Water . Bananas are 75% water, which is needed for the proper functioning of the digestive tract in preventing dehydration.

. Bananas are 75% water, which is needed for the proper functioning of the digestive tract in preventing dehydration. Vitamin B6. The Journal of Applied Animal Science suggests that vitamin B6 improves immune system functions in a rabbit’s body.

This suggests that vitamin B6 improves the functions of the immune system in a rabbit’s body. manganese . It helps in the metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins and fats.

. It helps in the metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins and fats. folate . Boosts red blood cell production and immunity.

. Boosts red blood cell production and immunity. Phosphorus. Required for bone development, along with calcium.

nutrients in bananas

Nutrients in Bananas, Raw Serving Size (1 small, 6-7 inches long, 100g) Energy 89.9 calories Total Carbohydrates 23.1g Starch 5.4g Sugars 12.4g Fiber 2.6g Fat 0.3g Protein 1.1 g vitamin A 64.6 mcg riboflavin (B2) 0.1 mg niacin (B3) 0.7 mg pantothenic acid (B5) 0.3 mg vitamin B6 0.061 mg folic acid (B9) 20.2 µg vitamin C 8 .8 mg vitamin E 0.1 mg vitamin K 0.5 µg calcium 5.1 mg iron 0.3 mg magnesium 12 mg manganese 27.3 mg phosphorus 22.2 mg potassium 362 mg zinc 0.2 mg

Banana feeding rules for rabbits

Keep the following rules in mind when adding bananas to your rabbit’s diet:

Do not feed bananas (or fruit or vegetables) to rabbits under 3 months old.

Add leafy greens to a growing rabbit’s diet before fruits.

Add fruit to your rabbit gradually and don’t introduce bananas with other fruits like pumpkin meat.

. Offer moderation as bananas are high in sugar and starch.

Let your pet get used to bananas for 24 hours before offering them again.

Increase the amount of bananas to the recommended amount.

Make sure hay still makes up around 80-90% of your rabbit’s diet.

If your rabbit shows signs of indigestion, stop feeding them bananas and call your vet for help.

Do rabbits like bananas?

Rabbits love bananas for their sweet taste. A rabbit will keep asking for more because sugar is very addictive.

If you offer too many bananas, your rabbit may lose interest in other, more nutritious foods like leafy greens. Some rabbits may even beg for bananas and refuse to eat anything else.

So make sure bananas aren’t your rabbit’s only treats. Offer it in moderation and mix your rabbit’s treats with other healthy fruits like blueberries and apples.

If this is your rabbit’s first time trying banana, don’t add more than 1 tbsp. for 24 hours. This will give you plenty of time to notice changes in your rabbit’s digestion or feces, and eliminate bananas from their diet if any negative symptoms appear.

You also don’t want to give a growing rabbit sweet treats like bananas before leafy greens. Your rabbit may develop a liking for the sweet taste of bananas and refuse to eat nutrient- and fiber-rich vegetables. Rewiring a rabbit back to a more natural, hay and leafy greens-based diet can be challenging, so portion control is essential.

Can rabbits eat banana peels?

Banana peels are safe for rabbits to eat, but like bananas, they’re also high in sugar and starch. Therefore, they should only be offered in small quantities as a treat.

If you also feed your rabbit banana peels, it’s best to stick to organic bananas only. Traditional banana peels are riddled with pesticides and chemical fertilizers that can be harmful to a rabbit’s health.

If you don’t have organic bananas, it’s best to discard the skin and only feed your rabbit the pulp.

Can Rabbits Eat Banana Leaves?

Your rabbit may enjoy nibbling on banana leaves. Banana leaves are safe for rabbits and can be introduced as part of a balanced diet. They are an excellent addition to the leafy green portion of a rabbit’s complete diet.

Just make sure the leaves are from an organic farm. When banana leaves are laced with pesticides and chemical fertilizers, they can cause life-threatening complications in rabbits over the long term.

Talk to your veterinarian before adding bananas, banana peels, and banana leaves to your rabbit. Your vet may advise against including these in your rabbit’s diet if they have dental problems, a sensitive digestive tract, or weight issues. Bananas are also not recommended for rabbits under 3 months of age or rabbits who react negatively to fruits high in sugar.

Can bunnies eat tomatoes?

The good news is that in small quantities, tomatoes are okay to feed your rabbit. A healthy rabbit will eat a mix of hay, vegetables, and pellets, with fruit added a few times per week. Tomatoes make a great occasional snack or treat for your rabbit.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

If you are concerned about feeding your rabbit tomatoes, it is a wise concern as tomatoes have a certain reputation. They belong to the nightshade family along with peppers, potatoes, tobacco and eggplant. These plants contain the chemical solanine, which can be toxic to some animals. Nightshades are also known to have inflammatory properties for humans.

Tomatoes can be fed to your rabbit – in small amounts

The good news is that tomatoes are fine to feed your rabbit in small amounts. A healthy rabbit will eat a mix of hay, vegetables, and pellets, with fruit added a few times a week. Tomatoes make a great occasional snack or treat for your rabbit.

They’re a quick, easy treat your rabbit will love, and they provide your pet with a healthy dose of nutrients. Fresh tomatoes are a great source of vitamins A and C, as well as other vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. However, you need to watch their quantities.

Fruits are the best treats for your pet rabbit. Whether you think of tomatoes as a fruit or a vegetable, your rabbit doesn’t care: tomatoes should not be considered a regular part of the diet. It’s best to rotate the type of fruit you offer to ensure your rabbit is getting a variety of nutrients each week.

While the cliché that bunnies love garden vegetables is somewhat rooted in truth, their diet should consist primarily of hay. Fruit should be used as a special treat and offered in small portions only a few times per week. Rabbits get most of the vitamins and minerals they need from hay, pellets, and leafy greens.

Feed your rabbit tomatoes

Feeding your rabbit fruits and vegetables is easy. Most bunny owners simply offer their fluffy companion some plant-based morsels from their own fridge. This saves time and is significantly cheaper. However, before you toss your bunny a slice of tomato while making your own salad, there are a few important things to keep in mind. While most of the fruits and vegetables you eat yourself are healthy elements of a rabbit’s diet, there are a few precautions you need to take with tomatoes.

Wash your tomato carefully. Fruit, especially whole fruit, is often covered in pesticides. These can be harmful or even toxic to your pet. Even if you feed your rabbit fruit from your own garden, it’s still wise to wash it carefully.

Remove the stem and leaves from your tomato. You should not feed your rabbit the stems and leaves of a tomato plant. The concentration of toxic chemicals is particularly high in these parts of the tomato, making your rabbit likely to get sick. In fact, wild rabbits instinctively avoid tomato plants and only nibble on the fruit.

Cut the tomato into an appropriate size. If using a large tomato, slice it. For cherry or plum tomatoes, cutting them in half will suffice. Remove the seeded part of the tomato. Seeded fruits are not usually recommended for rabbits. The seeds can cause gastrointestinal distress and are often poisonous.

how much is ok

Remember that your rabbit has an incredibly small stomach. A rabbit’s diet should contain no more than 5% treats, so moderation is key. Just the flesh of a cherry tomato is enough to satisfy their need for treats. If you have plum tomatoes on hand, a quarter would work best. A sandwich-sized slice of a tomato is a perfect portion.

Feeding your rabbit too many tomatoes can mean that they are not hungry enough to consume other foods that provide most of their nutrition. Rabbits love treats, but too many can lead to malnutrition and a host of dangerous, expensive health problems. Rabbits need to have enough appetite to chew fibrous hay to keep their teeth from growing too long.

Proper use of treats is one of the most important parts of caring for your pet. Follow these recommended tomato guidelines to keep your rabbit as happy and healthy as possible.

Read relatives:

Featured image: Josephine Baran on Unsplash

What can rabbits not eat?

Do NOT feed the following: cereals, grains, nuts, seeds, corn, beans, peas, breads, biscuits, sweets, sugar, breakfast cereals, chocolate or any garden plants that are toxic to rabbits (see links below).

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

Proper nutrition is one of the most important factors for a healthy rabbit. Rabbits should be fed the type of food to which they are adapted. In the wild, rabbits eat mostly grass. They can graze up to 6-8 hours a day. Your entire digestive tract from the teeth to the end of the gastrointestinal tract is adapted to this diet and eating habits.

Providing grass or grass hay for pet rabbits is vital to maintaining their health. Eating grass/grass hay encourages prolonged chewing, which is necessary to wear down continuously growing teeth, thereby preventing dental disease (a common health problem in pet rabbits).

The high fiber content of grass and grass hay is crucial for normal digestion. A diet that is too low in fiber can lead to fatal digestive problems – another common problem in pet rabbits. Gathering and chewing grass or grass hay also helps increase activity levels and prevent boredom and behavior problems [1].

To ensure your rabbits are getting a healthy, balanced diet, you should:

Provide a constant supply of good quality fresh grass and grass hay (this should make up around 80% of the total ration) – e.g. Timothy, oat, wheat, pasture, paddock, meadow or rye grass hay. Rabbits should not be fed lucerne (alfalfa) or clover hay as they contain too much protein and calcium which could lead to the formation of urinary stones [2].

Provide plenty of fresh leafy greens and greens (10-20% of total diet). As a guide, feed about two cups of leafy greens per kg of body weight per day. Some examples are vegetables like broccoli, celery, endive, beet/carrot tops, Brussels sprouts, spinach leaves, bok choy, other Asian vegetables, dark leaf lettuce, and herbs like parsley, dandelion, cilantro, basil, dill, and mint.

Treats may be offered in small amounts (1-2 tablespoons per rabbit per day). Examples include most fruits, root vegetables (like carrots and sweet potatoes), and peppers. Note that carrots should not be fed in large quantities.

Provide approximately 1 tablespoon/kg of pellets with at least >18% crude fiber (indigestible fiber content >12.5%) (no more than 5% of total diet) and ensure the pellets are for pet rabbits and not commercial rabbits agricultural purposes are formulated [3]. Rabbits can do without pellets as long as they are fed hay and fresh green vegetables daily.

Avoid grain/cereal mixes (e.g. rabbit mix muesli) as they can promote selective feeding, dietary imbalance and obesity [1,4].

It’s also a good idea to provide other items to chew on. Examples are wooden chewing blocks or old phone books.

Try to keep food and eating habits consistent. Any dietary change needs to be done gradually (over a period of 2-3 weeks) to minimize digestive upset.

Always have unlimited fresh, clean water available. Rabbits prefer open bowls (bowls) to bottle drinkers because licking from a bowl is more natural and encourages greater water intake [5].

DO NOT feed: Grains, grains, nuts, seeds, corn, beans, peas, bread, crackers, candy, sugar, breakfast cereal, chocolate or other garden plants poisonous to rabbits (see links below).

More information

For more information, see the following useful links:

What vegetables are toxic to rabbits?

What can rabbits not eat? These foods are poisonous for your rabbit and could make her ill: Potatoes, daffodils, tulips, rhubarb, lillies, mushrooms, avocado, broad beans, sweet peas, buttercup, kidney beans, jasmine, foxglove and iceberg lettuce.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

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Content: How Much Hay Should I Feed My Rabbit? | What is the best hay for my rabbit? | Why is hay so important for rabbits? | Can rabbits eat pellets? | What vegetables can rabbits eat? | What plants can rabbits eat? | What fruit can rabbits eat? | What foods are toxic to rabbits? | How much water does a rabbit need?

Keeping rabbits as pets is very popular in the UK. In fact, around 2% of UK households own one, according to the Pet Food Manufacturers Association (PFMA). And why don’t you want one? With their soft fur, big black eyes and long ears.

However, it is very important that you feed your rabbit the right food.

We’ve listed what vegetables, fruits and herbs you can feed your rabbit and we’ll discuss the importance of hay. This way you are fully informed about the right diet for your four-legged friend. Read on for more information.

We can insure rabbits for veterinary costs up to £2,000. Coverage can be per rabbit (up to three pets) or per policy. Why not get an offer?

How Much Hay Should I Feed My Rabbit?

Hay or grass should make up the majority of your rabbit’s diet at around 80-90%, it should be clean and fresh and always available.

According to the RSPCA, you should expect your furry friend to chew hay for about six to eight hours a day.

What is the best hay for my rabbit?

Alfalfa hay is the best variety for young rabbits up to seven months old. This is because it is high in calcium and protein, which aid in growth.

However, you should not feed your rabbit alfalfa hay as it gets older, as the higher calcium content can lead to kidney and urinary problems.

Switch to a grass hay like Timothy Hay or oat hay when it’s about seven months old. These are high in fiber, which is an essential part of your furry friend’s diet.

ManyPets compares rabbit insurance providers on their website. Click the link to see what you found.

Rabbits should primarily eat hay or grass

Why is hay so important for rabbits?

Hay is so important because it contains fiber that helps wear down your rabbit’s teeth, which are continuously growing at a rate of 2mm to 3mm per week.

Allowing your rabbit’s teeth to overgrow can lead to malocclusions (misaligned teeth). Dental problems like these can result in mouth ulcers, difficulty eating, and a very sad rabbit.

(You’ll need to see a vet in a situation like this – see how ExoticDirect rabbit insurance can help with that).

Eating hay and grass is better than eating kibble because rabbits have to grind the hay or grass between their molars.

In contrast, rabbits only need to crush dry food such as pellets between their teeth, which prevents teeth grinding.

Hay is also important for your rabbit’s intestines to function properly. The hay contains roughage that the intestines have to digest with difficulty.

When the gut doesn’t have enough fiber, it can’t function properly, leading to blockages such as B. intestinal stasis, can lead.

This is an uncomfortable condition for rabbits when the digestive tract slows down or stops working. Bacteria then build up and cause gas and bloating, further reducing your rabbit’s appetite.

Not only is it very uncomfortable, it can also be deadly. So keep feeding the hay!

Do you also own guinea pigs? Check out what can guinea pigs eat?

Can rabbits eat pellets?

Pellets are useful for younger rabbits when they need a diet that contains a concentration of nutrients to support growth. Make sure the pellets you buy are also high in fiber, which should be around 18%. However, the bulk of your rabbit’s diet should still be hay.

vegetables

After about three months, you can start introducing a wide range of vegetables. Introducing them individually will help you determine which are easier to digest and which are not.

You should feed your rabbit three different types of fresh vegetables every day.

What vegetables can rabbits eat?

Rabbits can eat the following vegetables:

basil

broccoli

Beetroot Greens

Dark Green Cabbage

Carrot tops and roots

cauliflower and leaves

celery

celery

coriander

Kale

zucchini

dill

fennel

mint

mark

Parsely

parsnip

Peppers – green

pumpkin

Radish greens and roots

rocket

Lettuce and lettuce (not too many) and no iceberg lettuce

spinach

spring green

sprouts

Pumpkin (any kind)

Sweet Potatoes (as a treat)

Tomatoes in small quantities

watercress

With thanks to the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF); The Rabbit House; Peta.org.

Rabbits like carrots, but feed them sparingly as they contain sugar.

What plants can rabbits eat?

Rabbits can eat the following plants:

agrimony

Avens

apple leaves and branches

blackberry leaves

burdock

marigold

Cleaver (Goosegrass or Sticky Weed)

cornflower

common mallow

dandelion

Echinacea

goats rough

Golden Staff

hawthorn

hazel

lemon balm

Melitot

mulberry

Nasturtium

pansies

raspberry leaves

Rosebay Willowherb (Fireweed)

roses (leaves and flowers)

shepherd’s bag

strawberry green

willow leaves

yarrow

Black currant leaves

chamomile

lady balm

marigold

melilote

mulberry

Plantain (broad leaf and ribwort)

raspberry leaves

sunflowers

List taken from RWAF website

Do rabbits eat geraniums?

There is confusion as to whether rabbits should eat geraniums, with some sources saying they can and others saying they can’t. If in doubt, do not feed them to your rabbit.

What fruit can rabbits eat?

Rabbits can eat the following fruits:

apples

bananas

blackberries

blueberries

cranberries

Grapes

tangerines

mango

nectarines

orange

papaya

pears

peach

plums

pineapple

raspberries

raisins

strawberries

watermelon

You must remove all seeds from the fruit, especially apples, where the pits are poisonous.

Only feed small amounts occasionally as fruit is high in sugar. Too much can lead to dental problems and obesity.

Some fruits, like oranges, are also high in acid, which can cause stomach problems and mouth ulcers.

How often should I give my rabbit fruit?

Rabbits should only be given fruit occasionally, as it contains so much sugar that it can lead to obesity or dental problems. Small portions, once or twice or weekly should suffice.

Don’t give in when you see your rabbit eating a delicious piece of apple. Like us and other food types, it may taste fantastic, but it’s not that good for us. Remember that moderation is key.

Can rabbits eat pumpkin seeds and other seeds?

Many seeds are not toxic to rabbits, but they are high in fat, which can lead to obesity in your rabbit.

Find out which seeds and kernels to avoid when feeding your rabbit.

What herbs can rabbits eat?

Rabbits can eat the following herbs:

basil

coriander

dill

mint

Parsely

oregano

rosemary

sage

thyme

Echinacea

What can rabbits not eat?

These foods are toxic to your rabbit and can make them sick:

Potatoes, daffodils, tulips, rhubarb, lilies, mushrooms, avocado, broad beans, vetches, buttercups, kidney beans, jasmine, foxgloves and iceberg lettuce.

Iceberg lettuce can be toxic in large quantities because it contains lactucarium, a substance that can be harmful to your rabbit. In addition, light-colored lettuce contains mostly water and offers little nutritional value.

Do not feed your rabbit apple or pear pits as they contain cyanide and can be harmful to your rabbit.

Do not feed your rabbit the pits of apricots, peaches and plums as these also contain cyanide.

Why can’t you feed your rabbit grass clippings?

When grass is cut with a lawn mower, it passes near the mower’s hot engine. This heat triggers a fermentation process that can be harmful to your rabbit’s stomach.

How much water does a rabbit need?

A rabbit drinks about 10% of its body weight in water every day.

You should ensure that the water is clean, fresh and supplied in either a bowl or bottle.

If she doesn’t get enough water in her diet, she could start to suffer from dehydration and digestive problems.

Your rabbit will also get water from the vegetables it eats. So if he eats a lot of it, don’t be alarmed if he doesn’t drink a lot of water as well.

Make mealtime fun – and get moving

If you want to combine feeding time with stimulation, try hiding your rabbit’s food under toys and in empty toilet paper rolls.

Finally

Hay should make up the bulk of your rabbit’s diet – around 80-90%.

Vegetables should also be an important part of your rabbit’s diet – you should give them around three servings a day. Pellets can also be used to supplement their diet.

Fruit should only be given occasionally – once or twice a week.

Water is an essential part of your rabbit’s diet – it helps prevent dehydration and keeps their bowels moving. You should provide a constant supply of clean, fresh water that is changed daily.

Also, getting plenty of exercise should help keep your rabbit happy and healthy for many years to come.

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Alternatively you can call us on 0345 982 5505

What fruit can rabbits have?

Fruit: Give to a bunny once or twice per week
  • Apple (no seeds)
  • Banana.
  • Berries: blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, cranberries.
  • Cherries (no seeds)
  • Grapes.
  • Melon.
  • Nectarine.
  • Orange.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

What should pet rabbits eat? Contrary to popular belief, rabbits need more than just carrots and lettuce. They need a balanced diet of hay, fresh vegetables and fruit, and some pellets. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive tracts, so switching to hay or pellets or introducing new fruits and vegetables must be done gradually to allow the rabbit’s system to adapt.

Hay: A rabbit’s staple diet

The bottom of a rabbit food pyramid would contain long-stemmed fiber in the form of hay, which makes up 80 to 90 percent of a rabbit’s diet. As grazing animals, rabbits need an unlimited supply of fresh hay every day.

You will want to feed your rabbit grass hay. Good types of grass hay for rabbits include timothy, orchard, brome, and oat hay. You can feed your rabbit one type or a mix of different types of grass hay. Buy fresh hay if possible and look for mold or dust that could make your rabbit sick.

Alfalfa hay is not a good choice for an adult rabbit as it is a legume rather than grass and as such is too rich to feed daily. Alfalfa can be given to rabbits occasionally as a treat. Rabbits under one year old can be fed alfalfa hay, but as they get older they should be switched to grass hay, especially if they are also fed alfalfa pellets.

Pellets: Feed a rabbit in small amounts

Timothy hay pellets can be given to rabbits in small amounts. An average sized (6-10 pounds) adult rabbit will only need a quarter cup of pellets daily. If your rabbit weighs less than five pounds, feed only one-eighth of a cup. Rabbits larger than 10 pounds need no more than 1/4 cup, as this is not a crucial part of a bunny’s diet.

Rabbits under one year old can be fed alfalfa pellets. Be sure to feed grass hay (instead of alfalfa) when feeding your young rabbits alfalfa pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber – the higher the better. Also note that many foods marketed to rabbits are not actually healthy for them and can sometimes be harmful so please read the ingredients. Do not buy rabbit pellets that have dried corn, nuts, and seeds added to them as these foods can potentially be very harmful to rabbits.

Vegetables: A rabbit’s favorite food

Rabbits count vegetables and herbs among their favorite foods. Most vegetables found in a supermarket are safe for rabbits, with some caveats and exceptions. (See the list of foods to avoid below.)

Adult rabbits should not be fed more than two cups of fresh vegetables per day. Miniature breeds and rabbits under five pounds should only be fed one cup of fresh vegetables per day. A choice of two or three vegetables is ideal. Add a new vegetable at a time and watch for signs of loose stools or diarrhea as, as mentioned above, rabbits have delicate digestive systems. Certain vegetables can be given every day, while others should be fed sparingly once or twice a week.

Don’t feed your rabbit potatoes, corn, beans, seeds, or nuts. These foods are difficult for rabbits to digest and can cause serious digestive problems.

Vegetables that can be fed to a rabbit daily:

paprika

Bok choy

Cauliflower

carrot tops

cucumber

endive

escarole

fennel

Herbs: basil, coriander, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme

Lettuce: Romaine, Green Leaf, Red Leaf, Boston Bibb, Arugula, Butter

okra leaves

radicchio

radish tops

Sprouts: alfalfa, radish, clover

watercress

wheatgrass

zucchini

Vegetables and plants to give a rabbit sparingly (once or twice a week):

Broccoli (stalks and leaves only)

carrots

chard

shamrock

collards

Dandelion Green (No Pesticides)

Flowers: Calendula, Chamomile, Daylily, Dianthus, English Daisy, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pansy, Rose

Kale

spinach

Fruit: Give to a bunny once or twice a week

Fruit should be given to your rabbit once or twice a week. A reasonable serving is one to two tablespoons of fruit (either one type or a mix) for every five pounds of body weight. Like vegetables, fruit should be introduced slowly and one at a time.

Fruit to feed your rabbit (once or twice a week):

apple (without seeds)

banana

Berries: blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, cranberries

Cherries (without pits)

Grapes

melon

nectarine

orange

papaya

peach

pear

pineapple

plum

watermelon

Treats: Feed rabbits sparingly

Like many people, many rabbits have a sweet tooth. As with humans, treats are at the top of the food pyramid for rabbits and should therefore be fed sparingly. Healthy treats for your rabbit include small pieces of fresh or freeze-dried fruit (the permitted fruits listed above); natural, unprocessed mixtures containing hay and dried flowers (the permitted flowers listed above); and Oxbow brand rabbit treats.

Always read the ingredient list of store-bought treats, as not all are safe for bunnies. Avoid treats that contain added sugar, preservatives, and artificial colors, and never give your rabbit human treats.

Foods to Avoid Giving a Rabbit

Some foods are definitely not good for rabbits as they can make rabbits extremely sick. Here are foods you should avoid giving your rabbit entirely:

All human goodies

beans

beet greens

cabbage

cauliflower

Muesli

chocolate

Treats made from corn or corn on the cob

cracker

iceberg lettuce

legumes

mustard green

nuts

pasta

Peas

potatoes

rhubarb

seed

sugar

Kohlrabi

yogurt

Freshwater: Unlimited supply for a rabbit

Finally, rabbits need to stay hydrated, so they should have an unlimited supply of fresh water that should be changed daily. The water tank should be cleaned with soap and water every few days. Water bottles are not easy to clean and can be difficult for rabbits to use, so bowls are better. A heavy ceramic bowl is ideal as it won’t tip over easily.

Additional rabbit information and resources

About Best Friends Animal Society: As leaders in the no-kill movement, Best Friends operates the nation’s largest no-kill service animal sanctuary and life-saving programs in collaboration with thousands of partners across the country working to save them all.

Join us to save them all

Do Bunnies Eat Cranberries? #shorts

Do Bunnies Eat Cranberries? #shorts
Do Bunnies Eat Cranberries? #shorts


See some more details on the topic can rabbits eat cranberries here:

Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? Here’s Why. – Bunny Horde

Cranberries are one of the most recommended treats for rabbits. You can safely feed your rabbits small amounts of cranberries 1-2 times per week and make …

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Can Rabbits Eat Dried Cranberries – Furry Facts

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Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? Best Guide We Should Know

Can Rabbits eat Cranberries? YES. Cranberries are one of the best treats we can feed to rabbits as an occasional treat. Most of the time they …

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Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? – Everything Bunnies

Yes, rabbits can eat raw cranberries safely in moderation. Fresh fruits appeal to pet parents who want to indulge their bunnies without endangering their health …

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Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? – Pet Consider

In conclusion, cranberries make a fabulously festive fall treat for rabbits. They are nontoxic, rich in antioxants, and generally well …

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Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? – Hobby Farm Heaven

To raise healthy and happy bunnies you must know what you can and can’t feed your rabbits, especially now, with so many different (and hazardous) rabbit food …

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Can Rabbits Eat Dried Cranberries

Cranberries are a fruit so this puts them in the treats category right away. Which means you should only give some to them once a week or so.

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Can Rabbits Eat Dried Cranberries? ( High acid levels )

It is OK for a rabbit to eat cranberries but these small fruits have a high level of ac which can be irritating to the gut if they are eaten in large …

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Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? – Kylon Powell –

Cranberries are a popular choice for rabbit treats. When feeding cranberries to rabbits, it is safe to give them small amounts of the fruit …

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Can Rabbits Eat Cranberries? Here’s the Answer

Yes, you can feed cranberries to your little bunny, but only as a treat once in a while. It is a recommended fruit that works as an excellent …

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Foods Rabbits Should Never Eat

February 15, 2021

Foods rabbits should never eat

by Dianne Cook, LVT

Rabbits are eating machines! Thanks to their unique physiology, these remarkable little herbivores must consume a near-constant intake of fiber to keep their specialized digestive tract functioning properly. However, just because rabbits are herbivores doesn’t mean they can eat all kinds of vegetables, greens, and fruits. Their unique nutritional requirements also make many “human treats” (and even some marketed for rabbits) unsuitable, as they can lead to serious health problems if consumed.

The following list includes the most common foods that should never be fed to rabbits, but it’s always best to check with your favorite rabbit-savvy vet before adding any new food to your rabbit. Likewise, if your rabbit ever swallows any of the products listed below (regardless of the amount), call your vet immediately.

avocados

chocolate

fruit seeds/seeds

Raw onions, leeks, garlic

Meat, eggs, dairy products

broad beans and kidney beans

rhubarb

iceberg lettuce

Mushrooms

indoor plants

Processed foods (bread, pasta, cookies, crackers, chips, etc.)

Raw potatoes

avocados

Although avocados are an excellent, healthy snack for humans, they contain a compound called persin that can be dangerously toxic to rabbits. This compound is found in all parts of the avocado: skin, stone, leaves and pulp. If a rabbit ingests toxic levels of persin, it can cause behavioral problems and breathing difficulties, and if not treated properly, can lead to congestive heart failure (fluid around the heart), which can prove fatal.

chocolate

As with many other members of the animal kingdom, chocolate is incredibly toxic to rabbits. This popular human treat contains theobromine and caffeine, both of which can be very harmful to our furry friends. The darker the chocolate, the higher the risk of toxicity. Signs of chocolate toxicity include diarrhea, restlessness or hyperactivity, tremors, wheezing, wheezing, or difficulty in getting comfortable, tachycardia (increased heart rate), and hyperthermia (increased temperature). Without prompt treatment, chocolate toxicity can prove fatal.

fruit seeds/pits

Be sure to remove all seeds and seeds before offering your rabbit any fruit. While feeding small amounts of the pulp of many fruits is absolutely harmless, the seeds and pips of many types of fruit contain traces of cyanide. Apples and pears are the most notorious examples, but the pits of apricots, peaches, plums, and mangoes contain cyanide, as do cherry pits. Although the amount of cyanide found in fruit seeds and pits is generally small, it’s best not to feed them to rabbits at all.

Raw onions, leeks, garlic

Raw leek vegetables like onions, leeks, and garlic contain an oxidizing agent called n-propyl disulfide that likes to attach itself to red blood cells. While humans are relatively unaffected by this oxidant, rabbits are more susceptible to “oxidative damage.” As the body tries to rid the blood of the unrecognized oxidant, it destroys the red blood cells in the process. This leads to a condition called hemolytic anemia, which can be fatal if not treated promptly and aggressively. Symptoms of hemolytic anemia include pale gums, ataxia (stumbling), weakness, disinterest in food or water, and lethargy.

Meat, eggs, dairy products

While this probably won’t come as a surprise, it’s worth noting that being herbivores, rabbits should never be offered meat, eggs, or dairy. Unlike carnivores or omnivores, whose digestive systems are designed to properly digest animal protein, rabbits’ delicate gastrointestinal tracts are specially equipped to break down low-fat, high-fiber vegetation.

Although most rabbits would turn their noses up at a piece of steak, they have a notorious sweet tooth and often find yogurt drops (or other dairy products) tempting. While it may seem harmless to offer a sweet, dairy-rich treat from time to time, doing so can cause gastrointestinal upset and greatly increase the risk of obesity or dysbiosis (disorder of the microbiome). For these reasons, it’s best not to feed rabbits products that contain meat, eggs, dairy, or other animal proteins.

broad beans and kidney beans

Broad beans (aka field beans) and kidney beans are very high in carbohydrates and can upset your rabbit’s delicate gastrointestinal system, resulting in loose stools or diarrhea, abdominal discomfort, bloating, and even upset gastrointestinal (gastrointestinal) bacterial flora ( dysbiosis). They also contain high levels of phosphorus and calcium and tend to be quite acidic, making them unsuitable for rabbits’ unique dietary needs.

rhubarb

This tart vegetable contains an impressive concentration of a compound called oxalic acid in all parts of the plant. While oxalic acid is not toxic when consumed in small amounts, when fed in excess it can interfere with calcium absorption and lead to other unpleasant toxic effects. Rabbits experiencing oxalic acid toxicity may experience a swollen, painful mouth, decreased appetite, bloating and abdominal discomfort, diarrhea, and lethargy.

iceberg lettuce

While there are several varieties of dark leaf lettuces (like romaine and green leaf) that make wonderful staples in a balanced rabbit diet, light-colored lettuces like Iceberg contain a chemical called lactucarium that can be harmful to rabbits if ingested in large amounts. Also, iceberg lettuce is far from nutritious and adds no nutritional value to a rabbit’s diet. Best to avoid.

Mushrooms

When people think of poisonous mushrooms, they often picture the toadstools that have mysteriously appeared in their gardens overnight. Although these wild mushrooms can be dangerous, home-bought mushrooms should not be fed to rabbits. Mushrooms can contain a variety of mycotoxins that remain present in the mushrooms, whether raw or cooked, and can be harmful to rabbits if ingested in large enough quantities. Effects of fungal toxicity can include diarrhea, gastrointestinal distress, organ damage, and neurological deficits.

indoor plants

If you’re adding a houseplant to the home, it’s safest to treat it as if it’s poisonous to your rabbit. Even if the plant you bought has been proven safe for rabbits, it’s often difficult to determine if it may have been exposed (directly or indirectly) to chemicals before you brought it home. As such, it’s generally best to keep all houseplants well-trimmed and out of the reach of curious little bunnies.

Processed foods (bread, pasta, cookies, crackers, chips, etc.)

As humans, some of our favorite foods are convenient, highly processed products that bear little resemblance to the ingredients used to make them. While sharing a potato chip or cracker with your bunny might seem like a wonderful way to bond, it’s never recommended. Many of the processed foods people eat are high in carbohydrates and sugars, which can lead to indigestion, abnormal bowel movements, abdominal discomfort, and dysbiosis, while significantly increasing the risk of obesity and obese health problems. If you want to give your bunny a treat, try offering a small amount of appropriate fruit, or opt for one of Oxbow’s many nutritionally appropriate treat options.

Raw potatoes

While not as toxic as some of the foods on this list, raw potatoes aren’t particularly healthy for anyone, including humans. Before cooking, potatoes contain a toxic alkaloid called solanine, which can cause decreased appetite, indigestion, abdominal pain and lethargy in rabbits. Even when not ingesting toxic levels of solanine, potatoes are high in calories and high in starch, which can upset a rabbit’s delicate gastrointestinal system and lead to serious digestive problems.

It can be very difficult to resist the temptation to share some of your meal with your fur baby, but for their health and wellbeing, none of the foods listed above should be fed to your rabbit. Luckily, there are a variety of rabbit-approved veggies, fruits, and veggies that will ensure you keep meals interesting for your bunny while ensuring you are providing the nutritionally best possible diet. If you are ever unsure whether your rabbit has ingested any food from this list, or if he is exhibiting any of the symptoms listed above, contact your veterinarian immediately for advice.

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Can Rabbits Eat Raisins? — Rabbit Care Tips

Rabbit owners are always on the lookout for treats that will make their bunny happy. As such, you may be curious if raisins can brighten up your rabbit’s day and diet. After all, these dried grapes are bite-sized and packed with nutrients. However, what’s healthy for humans can be toxic to rabbits, so it’s worth checking first.

Raisins are safe for bunnies to eat. They’re packed with nutrients and minerals that may even give your rabbit a health boost. Due to their high sugar content, however, raisins should only be fed sparingly. Overfeeding these treats can lead to serious health problems. Two whole raisins twice a week should be a safe amount for your rabbit.

When feeding your bunny raisins, be sure to prepare them properly. Any pesticides should be washed off, and you should check to see if your raisin is seedless. Young rabbits should not be fed raisins. Their developing intestines can experience more side effects than adult rabbits.

Are Raisins Toxic to Rabbits?

There is nothing in raisins that is toxic to rabbits. There are no harmful chemicals or components in this natural treat. You can safely feed the dried grapes to your adult rabbit in almost any form.

However, raisins are not the healthiest food for your rabbit. If you decide to include them in your diet, be sure to do so in small amounts. As a treat, they can be a great addition. As a meal, raisins can be harmful.

Are Raisins Good for Rabbits?

Raisins are safe to feed to your rabbit. However, they are also not “good” for rabbits. This is mainly due to their high sugar content.

However, when administered in small amounts, it should not overwhelm the benefits of these dried grapes. In fact, even a few raisins can give your rabbit’s health a boost every now and then.

Few calories

Raisins are very low in calories, which makes them ideal for feeding rabbits. On average, a raisin contains only 2 calories. Since rabbits need a lot of calories to function healthily, this won’t even affect their necessary daily intake.

That may sound like bad news. On the contrary, it means the raisins won’t upset your rabbit’s otherwise healthy diet. Your rabbit can enjoy the health benefits of raisins while leaving room for their regular hay, grass or pellets.

High in fiber

Raisins are high in fiber. As such, they are not only tasty but also helpful for a rabbit’s digestion.

A lack of fiber can leave rabbits prone to gastrointestinal problems that can be fatal. When your rabbit needs a digestive boost, raisins can serve as both comfort food and a healthy dose of fiber.

High in antioxidants

Antioxidants are a substance that can protect against a variety of diseases. These include heart disease, cancer, stroke, immune deficiency and even respiratory diseases. Raisins are a great source of antioxidants that keep your rabbit safe and healthy.

Source of important minerals

Raisins are full of important minerals – especially calcium. Calcium is an important component in strengthening bones. As animals with a delicate bone structure, calcium is essential for rabbits.

Calcium is also very important for eye health. Rabbits have surprisingly good vision. By including a few raisin treats in your rabbit’s diet, you can help maintain their visual advantage.

In addition to calcium, raisins also contain a lot of magnesium. This mineral is important for keeping the cardiovascular system healthy. This keeps your rabbit’s heart, veins and arteries in top condition. If a rabbit lacks magnesium, their cardiovascular system can suffer.

This is supported by the Journal of Nutrition Research. The researchers gave a group of New Zealand white rabbits an insufficient amount of magnesium for 8 weeks. When magnesium levels were increased, the symptoms of atherosclerotic plaque subsided.

Raisins are also high in potassium, which helps keep muscles healthy and strong. A lack of potassium can even lead to death, according to a study published in the Journal of Nutrition. Results showed that potassium deficiency caused muscular dystrophy, or weakened muscles, at a severe and rapidly progressive rate. This resulted in death after 4 to 6 weeks.

Are Raisins Bad For Rabbits?

Raisins are safe and healthy treats for rabbits. However, that doesn’t mean you should feed your rabbit as much as they want. There are still a few downsides to these dried fruits that you should be aware of.

Raisins are high in sugar

Food high in sugar is unhealthy for rabbits. In fact, rabbits in the wild avoid high-sugar foods because they can destabilize their gut flora. This can lead to discomfort, disability, other health problems, or possibly death if left untreated. While raisins have many benefits, that doesn’t eliminate their high sugar content.

Even in small amounts, the sugar is too small to harm your rabbit. Just make sure you ration your intake carefully. If you want to be extra careful, all of the raisin benefits can be found in other parts of the rabbit diet as well. Minerals such as potassium and magnesium are also contained in high-quality rabbit pellets.

Not a good source of fiber

Raisins have a decent amount of fiber. However, due to their high sugar content, they are bad to eat in large quantities. If you’re trying to increase your rabbit’s fiber intake with raisins, you’re probably giving them too much sugar.

Because rabbits are herbivores, they need plenty of fiber in their diet. However, these should primarily be found through hay, grass and leafy greens. All other foods, such as vegetables and fruits, should only be given as a reward. This will ensure your rabbit has a healthy stomach.

Easy to overfeed

In addition to their high sugar content, raisins are easy to overfeed. Because they’re so small, it’s easy to lose track of how much your rabbit has eaten.

It’s also easy for owners to feel like they’re not adequately rewarding their bun with only four raisins a week. In fact, it can even feel like a tease, which could encourage you to give the rabbit more and unbalance their diet.

Just remember that if you overfeed your rabbit, raisins can wreak havoc on their digestive system.

Do rabbits like to eat raisins?

Because of their high sugar content, your rabbit will likely enjoy eating raisins. Once you’ve introduced this dried treat, your rabbit will likely be craving and begging for more.

On the other hand, not all rabbits have the same preferences. Rabbits are picky eaters by default. If one of your bunnies likes raisins and another might not. If your rabbit doesn’t like raisins, don’t worry. There are many other treats that can be used to train and enrich your rabbit’s life.

Are Yoghurt Coated Raisins Good For Rabbits?

If raisins are safe for rabbits, you might be wondering if yogurt-covered raisins are also healthy for your bun. Unfortunately this is not true. Adding yogurt to raisins just makes the treat less healthy, not healthier.

That’s because rabbits are herbivores. The consumption of animal products such as yoghurt can disturb the sensitive intestinal flora. A rabbit’s digestive system just isn’t equipped to handle these fats and proteins.

This is supported by a study published in the International Archives of Allergy and Applied Immunology. Rabbits fed cow’s milk developed rheumatoid lesions. In addition, dairy products are a common cause of GI stasis, a serious type of gut problem in rabbits.

You may have noticed yogurt candies in pet stores that are touted as safe for rabbits. This is mainly a special treatment. Because yogurt is packed with its own culture of bacteria, rabbits with digestive issues may, on rare occasions, benefit from consuming yogurt. However, the yogurt should be diluted and given in small amounts. This should only be done under your supervision and after consulting your veterinarian.

If this unique situation doesn’t apply to your rabbit, you shouldn’t feed them yogurt. Therefore, raisins coated in yogurt are dangerous for rabbits.

Pick raisins for your rabbits

So, are raisins enough for your bunny? Technically, yes, rabbits can eat all raisins. However, these tips will help ensure that your rabbit has only good experiences:

Stick to brands that are low in sugar

Many brands of raisins have added sugar. This is said to make the dried fruit more attractive to humans. However, raisins are already very sweet, so added sugar makes them less safe for your bun.

Keep in mind that organic brands probably contain the least amount of sugar. Pet stores also sell low-sugar rabbit-safe raisins, but they’re likely to charge a higher price.

Check the portion sizes

When buying a packet of raisins, pay attention to the nutritional information. These should be measured based on serving per container. Remember that a container can hold more than one serving.

Some brands hide their total sugar content by offering unusual serving sizes. Be careful or you could accidentally give your rabbit a big help due to bad calculation.

Buy only a small pack

Since your rabbit only needs a few raisins a week, you don’t need to have a large pack on hand. Instead, it’s best to stick to smaller bags to feed your rabbit. This also reduces the chance of overfeeding your rabbit.

Introducing raisins to your rabbit

Encouraging your rabbit to eat raisins may not be easy. Rabbits are picky eaters and often wrinkle their noses at new food. Therefore, any changes or additions to the rabbit’s diet should be done properly and carefully. What’s the best way to introduce raisins to your rabbits?

Start with the smallest raisin you can find and give that to your rabbit. If your rabbit has any side effects to the treat, this will ensure it is minimized.

After giving your rabbit the smallest piece, watch it. If your rabbit is bothered by sugar levels, pesticides or seeds, you will be able to tell within the first few hours.

Watch for signs of stomach upset. Minor symptoms do not require a vet visit.

If your rabbit is showing signs of weakness or is refusing to eat or drink, be sure to call your veterinarian.

At worst, your rabbit’s digestive balance could be upset by the introduction of the sugar. If pesticides were present on the raisins, your rabbit may experience more severe symptoms. A veterinarian can institute treatments to bring your rabbit back into balance.

How to cook raisins for rabbits

Of course, raisins are not difficult to eat. However, it is important to remember that rabbits can become ill from outside chemicals or encounter other problems when they eat new food. Before you feed your rabbit raisins, remember:

Rinse your raisins

Grapes that are processed into raisins often contain pesticide residues. This is especially true for Muscat, Sultana and Black Corinth. A human may not be able to tell the difference, but a rabbit often can. Be sure to rinse the raisins before feeding them to your rabbit.

A quick rinse in cool, running water should remove any remaining chemicals. As a bonus, remove any dust or dirt that may have covered the raisin during the original drying process.

Alternatively, you can opt for organic raisins. These brands might be a bit pricey, but they’re not made from grapes that have been sprayed with pesticides.

Cut into small pieces

Before feeding your rabbit raisins, be sure to cut them into small pieces. Because they are tiny chunks, there is less chance of overfeeding to your rabbit.

Also, crushing these dried grapes will remove any seeds that are in the raisins. Although they are often made from seedless grape varieties, this is not always the case. This practice reduces the risk of choking and keeps you on the safe side.

Use as a form of enrichment

A good way to keep your rabbit from eating too many raisins is to make the rabbit work for it. This approach also serves as a high-quality form of exercise.

To use raisins as an enrichment, hide them in your rabbit’s toy or habitat. Your bunny has the ability to dig around and interact with objects. At the end, it will be rewarded with a treat.

How Many Raisins Should You Feed Your Rabbit?

There is no official recommendation as to how many raisins can be fed to a rabbit. However, veterinarians generally agree on how much fruit a rabbit can eat per day. More specifically, this is one teaspoon of fruit for every two pounds of a rabbit’s body weight.

The problem, however, is that raisins are dried. Therefore, they weigh significantly less than other types of fruit. In addition, they are not only lighter, but also much smaller. Therefore, the number of raisins a rabbit can safely eat is much less.

As a rule of thumb, it’s best not to feed your rabbit more than two whole pieces of raisins, no more than twice a week. That estimate fits an average-sized rabbit—specifically, around five pounds.

Raisin shorthand

What if your rabbit is bigger or smaller? Think how many grapes you would feed your rabbit. A whole grape equals a raisin. While two raisins may seem paltry, in their full, water-filled form they would be far more filling.

Of course, larger rabbits can eat more, and lighter rabbits should eat less. Because every rabbit is different, regardless of their weight or the amount of raisins, you should still keep an eye on your rabbit’s reaction.

Can you give raisins to young rabbits?

Raisins are not inherently toxic to younger rabbits. However, as a rule of thumb, it is not advisable to feed younger rabbits fruits and vegetables.

As young, rabbits are still developing the gut flora that will carry them throughout their lives. Any food that can upset an adult rabbit’s stomach will affect a young rabbit even faster – and harder. With their underdeveloped digestive systems, baby rabbits will have a harder time digesting new food. Any harmful bacteria they encounter have far more negative effects.

For this reason, it is not recommended to feed raisins to a young rabbit. It may not harm the bunny immediately, but it is far more likely to harm him overall. Instead, wait until it’s grown before introducing it to this delicious — but tricky — treat.

Rabbits can safely eat raisins. While they’re not the superfood your rabbit’s diet needs, there are benefits to using raisins as a treat. Be sure to clean them properly, cut them into chunks, and only feed your rabbit 2 full portions twice a week. When rationed sparingly, your rabbit can enjoy the flavor, minerals and nutrients, and added enrichment to their lifestyle.

Bladder Stones and Bladder Sludge in Rabbits

Bladder stones and bladder sludge in rabbits

Susan Brown, DVM

Sep 2006

Bladder problems occur in rabbits of all breeds, ages and both sexes. Historically, these problems have been frustrating to treat and have a high rate of recurrence. In recent years, veterinary study of this problem and rabbit physiology has helped us find better ways to treat bladder problems. We are still far from fully understanding why and when rocks and mud form. However, the treatment is now more successful and the recurrence rate has been significantly reduced. INTRODUCTION TO THE URINARY SYSTEM

The rabbit’s urinary tract is similar to that of other mammals. The upper urinary tract consists of the kidneys (one on the left and one on the right side of the body) and the ureters. The ureters are tubes that connect the kidneys to the urinary bladder. The lower urinary tract consists of the bladder and the urethra. The urethra is the tube that connects the bladder to the outside of the body and is the pathway for urine to flow during urination. Urine is formed when blood enters the kidneys and is filtered of waste products. Depending on the rabbit’s hydration status, the urine will be diluted or concentrated as the kidneys release more or less water into the urine. Once formed, urine travels through collecting ducts in the kidney to the ureters. Urine flows through the ureters into the urinary bladder. The urinary bladder is a simple collection bag for urine. When the rabbit is ready to urinate, the muscles of the bladder contract and the sphincter at the exit hole relaxes, pushing urine out of the bladder and through the urethra and out of the body. In men, the urethra runs through the penis and is a long, tapered tube. In women, the urethra is short and wide, ending in the vagina. DEFINITION OF BLADDER STONES AND BLADDER SLUDGE

Bladder stones are hard deposits found in the urinary bladder. These concretions have a specific shape and consistency of limestone. Most rabbit urinary stones are made up of some form of calcium carbonate. Stones can also be found in the collecting ducts of the kidneys or the ureters. In some cases, a stone enters the urethra and is drained to the outside. (If you see a stone in the litter box, please contact your veterinarian and make an appointment to make sure there are no other stones present.) On rare occasions, a larger stone can exit the bladder and into the urethra to get stuck. This either completely or partially blocks the flow of urine to the outside of the body. Complete blockages are more common in men due to the narrower urethra and are a medical emergency. Fortunately, this emergency scenario is quite rare. Bladder sludge (also called hypercalcinuria or hypercalciuria) is thickening of the urine with calcium salts that never form into stones. Sludge can be made up of any number of calcium salts and does not flow like normal, liquid urine should. We’re not sure why, but mud doesn’t form stones. It retains the consistency of chalk or fine sand and is white to gray in color. Very thick mud can be the consistency of toothpaste. When felted, this mud can be smooth, have a fine-grained texture, or even have a coarse-grained texture. Sludge can form in the kidneys or ureters, but most sludge is found and suspected to have formed in the bladder. It is not currently clear why some rabbits develop stones, others form mud, and why most rabbits neither develop stones nor mud. Most likely, it is a combination of factors that contribute to this pathology. These factors are listed and discussed below. First, however, I would like to address the rabbit’s particular physiology in relation to calcium metabolism. CALCIUM METABOLISM IN RABBIT

Digestible calcium is that calcium that can be absorbed by the body and is not bound to another substance that prevents its absorption. Calcium is used for a variety of processes, the most common being the maintenance of bones and muscles. Humans and most other pets tend to absorb calcium from a meal in relation to their body needs at that time. Calcium that is not needed by the body is either not absorbed or is metabolized by the liver and excreted from the body in the feces. Calcium uptake and metabolism in rabbits are not fully understood. Rabbits typically have much higher blood calcium levels than any other mammal we know as a pet. A veterinarian familiar with rabbits will know a rabbit’s normal calcium range and will not compare it to a dog or cat. It is currently believed that unlike some other mammals, rabbits may be consuming more digestible calcium than their bodies currently need. Rabbits then excrete the excess calcium that they do not need, mainly through the kidneys and to a lesser extent through the digestive tract. Calcium is excreted in the urine in the form of calcium carbonate. This substance makes normal rabbit urine cloudy compared to human, dog, or cat urine. The calcium carbonate is the white residue seen on the cage paper after the urine has dried. When you touch this residue, it feels like chalk. Rabbits evolved this very efficient way of absorbing calcium from food, possibly due to the environment in which they evolved. This mechanism may have been necessary to get as much calcium out of a meal if less calcium was available in subsequent meals. Although we do not fully understand calcium metabolism in rabbits, the key facts for our discussion are: rabbits may be absorbing more digestible calcium from their diet than they need at that moment, and

Most of the excess calcium is excreted through the kidneys. As mentioned above, the normal blood calcium level of a rabbit is generally higher than that of most other mammals. A blood test showing high calcium levels could be normal or represent a change in calcium levels in a rabbit that recently ate a high-calcium meal. If your rabbit has high blood calcium levels, it’s often best to check them again after removing highly digestible sources of calcium from their diet for 24 hours to get a more accurate reading. Traditional blood tests measure the total calcium level in the blood. While this can detect a potential problem, measuring “ionized” calcium levels (the form of calcium that can cause kidney, muscle, and heart problems) will help distinguish a normal rabbit from one at risk from excess calcium . Fortunately, ionized calcium levels are usually normal in rabbits with high total calcium. There is currently no evidence that rabbits that form mud or stones have abnormal ionized calcium levels. POTENTIAL RISK FACTORS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF MUD OR STONES

Genetic predisposition to stone formation in this particular rabbit; This is a hypothesis but not scientifically tested. Insufficient water intake of the rabbit. This can be caused by lack of water (water bowl overturned, water frozen, rabbit doesn’t know how to drink from a water bottle, broken water bottle) or water with a bad taste or smell (contaminated, with medicines or vitamins added). This can also be caused by lack of exercise (see next factor). This leads to a state of chronic, low-level dehydration and can lead to more concentrated urine, which can lead to the formation of sludge or stones. Inactivity leads to less frequent urination. The inactive rabbit that sits in a cage all day may not drink as frequently or urinate as frequently, resulting in more concentrated urine. An inactive rabbit might sit in one spot and so does the urine and there is more opportunity for calcium crystals to coalesce. An active rabbit uses more water and urinates more frequently. Lack of proper toilet area. Some rabbits are very fussy and if they are confined in a confined space and the toilet area is not kept clean they will tend to hold urine longer and therefore urinate less frequently. This could lead to similar problems as mentioned under Inactivity. Kidney disease can cause a change in the way calcium is excreted or handled. A variety of diseases can affect the kidneys, including parasitic, infectious, and non-infectious. Bladder disease can cause changes in the lining of the bladder, causing calcium carbonate to build up and form stones or sludge. Infections, tumors, and benign growths can cause inflammation of the bladder wall. Diet high in digestible calcium? Veterinarians have believed for many years that dietary calcium levels are important in the development of bladder stones and sludge. For this reason, and because so much is not known about this condition, we have emphasized dietary changes aimed at reducing calcium intake for affected rabbits. Based on what we now know, it can be stated that dietary changes alone will NOT reduce the formation of stones or sludge in rabbits prone to this condition. Several scientific studies in which rabbits were fed large amounts of digestible calcium for months (far more than a pet rabbit would ever get on even a fully commercial diet) have shown that these rabbits did not develop stones or mud. So I don’t think diet ALONE is ever the whole problem. SIGNS OF BLADDER STONES AND MUD

There may be very few signs at the onset of this disease, or the signs may be so subtle that they go undetected by the rabbit’s keeper. Any combination of the following symptoms may occur as the disease progresses. Urinating more often than usual and often outside of the normal toilet area. Frequent inappropriate urination (particularly “spraying” of urine onto vertical surfaces) may be considered normal behavior in sexually mature, intact male and female rabbits who are marking their territory. However, a rabbit with bladder problems does not typically “spray” urine onto vertical surfaces, nor does it seem particularly interested in marking a territorial boundary or specific objects in a room. Occasionally, a rabbit will be observed to “dribbling urine” without realizing it, and the hindquarters may be constantly wet with urine. Please note that there are other medical conditions that can cause hindquarter urine discoloration, including sore hocks, spinal disorders (arthritis, injuries, nerve damage), obesity (can’t clean the hindquarters), and reproductive disorders.

Frequent inappropriate urination (particularly “spraying” of urine onto vertical surfaces) may be considered normal behavior in sexually mature, intact male and female rabbits who are marking their territory. However, a rabbit with bladder problems does not typically “spray” urine onto vertical surfaces, nor does it seem particularly interested in marking a territorial boundary or specific objects in a room. Occasionally, a rabbit will be observed to “dribbling urine” without realizing it, and the hindquarters may be constantly wet with urine. Please note that there are other medical conditions that can cause hindquarter urine discoloration, including sore hocks, spinal disorders (arthritis, injuries, nerve damage), obesity (can’t clean the hindquarters), and reproductive disorders. Difficult to urinate. It takes the rabbit longer than usual to pass a smaller than usual amount of urine. This exertion behavior is often confused with constipation. True constipation is extremely rare in rabbits. Occasionally, the clenching can be so painful that the rabbit screams or groans when urinating, although this is rare. You should consider it an emergency if a rabbit is constantly straining without producing urine. This indicates that the urethra (the tube that carries urine from the bladder) may be completely blocked and if left unchecked it could result in the pet’s agonizing death within 24 hours.

It takes the rabbit longer than usual to pass a smaller than usual amount of urine. This exertion behavior is often confused with constipation. True constipation is extremely rare in rabbits. Occasionally, the clenching can be so painful that the rabbit screams or groans when urinating, although this is rare. You should consider it an emergency if a rabbit is constantly straining without producing urine. This indicates that the urethra (the tube that carries urine from the bladder) may be completely blocked and if left unchecked it could result in the pet’s agonizing death within 24 hours. blood in the urine. The color of normal rabbit urine can range from light yellow to deep orange-red (a “rusty” color), which is due to a variety of plant pigments that may have been eaten, or pigments called porphyrins that are produced by the bladder itself. Blood coming out of the urinary tract should cause the urine to be a consistent dark to light red color. Often the amount of blood in the urine is so small that it can only be detected by testing with a specially treated paper or by looking at the urine sediment under a microscope. Unless the rabbit urinates on a light-colored surface, blood in the urine can easily go unnoticed. It’s important to note that there is another condition that can cause blood to leak when you urinate and is often mistaken for bladder or kidney disease. Uterine disease in female rabbits can cause bleeding into the vagina. The blood collects in the vagina and when the rabbit urinates, the blood is usually pushed out at the end of urination. In these cases, the blood appears as a centrally located pool within the urine puddle. There can also be blood clots in the urine pool and finally there can be blood stains in the area under the rabbit’s tail and hindquarters, which is not usually seen with bladder disease. Please note that these signs indicate a serious reproductive system disorder and NOT a urinary tract disorder. The urine will test positive for blood on a chemical analysis when you bring a sample to your vet, and it’s impossible to tell where the blood came from. Therefore, it is crucial that you examine a fresh urine sample for the color pattern. In addition, a full physical exam by a veterinarian will also help establish the diagnosis. Uterine diseases naturally only occur in unneutered female rabbits.

The color of normal rabbit urine can range from light yellow to deep orange-red (a “rusty” color), which is due to a variety of plant pigments that may have been eaten, or pigments called porphyrins that are produced by the bladder itself. Blood coming out of the urinary tract should cause the urine to be a consistent dark to light red color. Often the amount of blood in the urine is so small that it can only be detected by testing with a specially treated paper or by looking at the urine sediment under a microscope. Unless the rabbit urinates on a light-colored surface, blood in the urine can easily go unnoticed. mud in the urine. Urine that thickens with calcium carbonate crystals is not only difficult to pass, but tends to stick to the fur around the rabbit’s hindquarters. The mud will leave a noticeable amount of off-white residue on the coat and toilet area as it dries. This material has the consistency of very fine sand or chalk. Keep in mind that a small amount of this material can be seen in normal rabbit urine when it dries, as excess calcium is eliminated from the body. However, in normal rabbits, the calcium carbonate should not build up on the fur.

Larger calcium carbonate particles with the consistency of coarse sand can sometimes also pass through. On rare occasions, the rabbit will dump a large rock. If this is observed, the pet should be examined by your veterinarian to determine if there are additional stones in the bladder. Multiple bladder stones are more common than single stones.

Urine that thickens with calcium carbonate crystals is not only difficult to pass, but tends to stick to the fur around the rabbit’s hindquarters. The mud will leave a noticeable amount of off-white residue on the coat and toilet area as it dries. This material has the consistency of very fine sand or chalk. Keep in mind that a small amount of this material can be seen in normal rabbit urine when it dries, as excess calcium is eliminated from the body. However, in normal rabbits, the calcium carbonate should not build up on the fur. Larger calcium carbonate particles with the consistency of coarse sand can sometimes also pass through. On rare occasions, the rabbit will dump a large rock. If this is observed, the pet should be examined by your veterinarian to determine if there are additional stones in the bladder. Multiple bladder stones are more common than single stones. scalding in the urine. Some rabbits with hypercalcinuria develop a rash around the area where they urinate and along the abdomen and inner thighs. This is related to prolonged contact of the urine with the skin. Any rabbit with persistent wet hair or a rash in these areas should be checked for urine sludge or stones.

Some rabbits with hypercalcinuria develop a rash around the area where they urinate and along the abdomen and inner thighs. This is related to prolonged contact of the urine with the skin. Any rabbit with persistent wet hair or a rash in these areas should be checked for urine sludge or stones. loss of appetite and depression. This sign usually occurs because of pain from the pressure, size, or location of the stones, or from a complete blockage in the urethra. If one or both ureters are blocked, the rabbit can quickly develop kidney failure, which will quickly lead to severe depression and death. Loss of appetite and depression in a rabbit, regardless of the suspected cause, should always be considered an emergency and you should contact your vet immediately. It goes without saying that if you see any of the above signs in your rabbit, you should seek medical attention immediately. If you can collect a urine sample prior to your visit, it may be helpful. (Please see the urinalysis section below for sample collection instructions). DIAGNOSIS OF BLADDER STONES AND MUD

History and signs of the disease. As I’ve mentioned many times in my articles, giving your vet a good medical history is vital to the ability to diagnose many conditions. I suggest that you take a few notes about your pet’s problems before you go to the vet. In your notes, describe the duration of the illness, changes in your pet’s behavior, changes in the rabbit’s lifestyle or environment, any remedies you may have tried, and any ideas you may have about the problem your pet is exhibiting. Physical examination. A thorough physical exam by your veterinarian is an important part of the diagnosis. Occasionally, bladder stones can be felt in the bladder, but if the stones are small or the rabbit is uncooperative, they can be missed. Examination of the rabbit’s hindquarters may reveal mud or small stones that have built up on the fur and skin. The most important contribution of the physical exam is to determine your pet’s overall condition and the presence of other contributing diseases. Abnormalities such as anemia, weight loss, skin lesions, dental disease, heart or lung abnormalities, and abdominal pain or masses are just a few of the things that can be detected during a physical exam. urinalysis. A urinalysis can detect abnormal cells and determine the chemical makeup of the urine. Rabbit urine can be collected in a number of ways. 1. Free Catch – Empty the rabbit’s litter box and wipe it with a paper towel, but don’t disinfect it so that some odor remains. If the rabbit urinates in the crate, catch it as soon as possible by pouring it into a clean glass or plastic container. You can also suck up the urine with a syringe or dropper. Get the specimen to your vet as soon as possible, but it can be stored covered in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours. The disadvantage of this collection method is that fecal contamination is common and can alter urinalysis results. 2. Manual Squeezing – Your veterinarian or veterinary technician may be able to gently massage and squeeze the awake rabbit’s bladder and cause the pet to urinate. The urine is directed into a collection cup. This method is successful when the rabbit is cooperative and has a full bladder. 3. Cystocentesis – This method can be used in either conscious or anesthetized rabbits. The patient is placed on their back and the bladder is grasped by the handler and gently pulled against the abdominal wall. A small needle attached to a syringe is inserted through the skin of the abdomen and into the bladder. It is aspirated and the urine sample is collected in the syringe. The procedure is completed in a matter of seconds with minimal discomfort to the rabbit. With the hair shaved and the skin cleaned, this method allows the collection of sterile urine for bacterial culture. 4. Catheterization – The rabbit is anesthetized for this procedure. A small, soft catheter is inserted into the urethra and then inserted into the bladder, and the urine sample is drawn into a syringe. This procedure also enables sterile sampling for bacterial culture. This method is also valuable in the treatment of hypercalcinuria. The catheter is used to deliver sterile fluid to the bladder and to clear it of debris. Radiography (X-rays). This is probably the most important diagnostic test to definitely determine if there are stones or sludge in the urinary tract. Stones are very dense and therefore appear as white patches in the urinary tract. The vet examines the bladder, urethra, ureters, and kidneys, where stones can form. If surgery is to be performed, a chest x-ray may also be done to assess heart and lung health. Sludge looks like an amorphous white patch and is usually found only in the urinary bladder. Ultrasonic. Ultrasound is another method of viewing internal organs and may be indicated when a more detailed examination of the kidneys is required. Ultrasound also detects stones in the urinary tract, as well as other conditions in the abdomen (or chest). Biochemistry of the serum. These are blood tests that examine a number of different chemical parameters that indicate the health of various organs in the body. These tests are important to determine the condition of the kidneys (which can be damaged by stones). Blood calcium levels should also be determined as discussed above. The biochemistry of the serum also gives clues to the health of the liver, which is very important when considering surgery. Special chemistry tests can also be performed. Measurement of serum bile acids is a specific liver function test that is more sensitive than routine biochemical tests. Complete blood count (CBC). This is a blood test that examines the number of white and red blood cells and platelets, as well as the types and abnormalities of the blood cells. A complete blood count may be indicated when the patient is in poor physical condition because it can detect signs of infection and anemia that may be relevant to the treatment regimen. TREATMENT OF BLADDER STONES AND MUD

Treatment for urinary tract stones and sludge is based on a number of factors, including the pet’s general health, the location and size of the stones or amount of sludge, and the presence of other diseases. Surgery – If the rabbit has bladder stones, they will need to be surgically removed. There are currently no diets that dissolve these stones. The stones increase in size over time if not removed and can become lodged in the urethra, leading to life-threatening bladder obstruction. During surgery, a bacterial culture of the bladder wall should be done to detect underlying infection. The length of hospital stay depends on the operation and the patient, but can range from one to four days on average.

In cases where the stones are in the kidneys or ureters, surgery may still be an option, but there is a higher risk of postoperative complications. Kidney function should be assessed prior to any surgery in this area. Kidney function can be assessed through blood tests, dye studies, and ultrasound. In cases where there is kidney damage due to a blockage in a ureter (called hydronephrosis), surgery to remove the kidney may be needed.

In some cases, relatively small stones in female rabbits can be removed non-surgically using a technique called voiding hydropulsion. This technique involves anesthesia and catheterization of the bladder. Fluid is added to the bladder and the bladder is squeezed out manually in hopes of pushing stones out through the urethra. Lithotripsy (the breaking up of stones with ultrasonic waves) is being studied in dogs and cats for stone removal. At this point, to my knowledge, this technology has not been used in rabbits.

Most cases of bladder sludge do not require surgery unless there is a blockage. Bladder Catheterization and Flushing – Bladder sludge can usually be treated by anesthetizing the rabbit, inserting a catheter into the bladder, and flushing the bladder with saline to dilute the sludge material. The diluted material is then aspirated into a syringe or the blister is squeezed out manually. This process is repeated several times until the bladder sludge is significantly reduced. In addition, the urine can be cultured during this procedure. Diuresis (increased water intake) – This is an extremely important part of treating urinary tract disorders. Diuresis means increasing water intake so more urine is produced. This has the effect of diluting the urine, thereby reducing the chance of more stones or sludge forming. Fluids can be administered intravenously, subcutaneously, intraperitoneally, as well as orally. Diuresis is performed at the veterinary clinic and should be continued at home (see next section on long-term treatment). Some vets use drugs called diuretics to chemically cause more water to be added to the urine. This therapy is quite unconventional and carries the risk of both causing dehydration and depleting the body of potassium. At this time I do not recommend the use of diuretics. Wenn sie jedoch verwendet werden, müssen sie mit einer aggressiven oralen oder subkutanen Flüssigkeitsdiurese kombiniert werden, die zu Hause durchgeführt wird. Analgetika – Nicht-steroidale Analgetika (Schmerzmittel) sollten vor und nach einer Operation oder Katheterisierung verwendet werden. Die Anwendungsdauer von Schmerzmitteln hängt vom Eingriff und vom Patienten ab. Sobald ein Kaninchen normal uriniert, sich ohne Beschwerden bewegt und gut frisst, können die Analgetika abgesetzt werden. Vitamin C oder Cranberry-Tabletten – Vitamin C kann die Heilung des geschädigten Gewebes der Harnwege nach einer Operation oder Katheterisierung unterstützen. Darüber hinaus haben Studien gezeigt, dass der Gehalt an Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C) bei Kaninchen unter Stress dramatisch abfällt. Da Krankheiten oder chirurgische Eingriffe Stress verursachen können, ist es wahrscheinlich, dass Vitamin C in diesen Fällen von Vorteil ist. Studien am Menschen weisen darauf hin, dass Cranberrysaft Alpha-D-Mannopyranosid enthält, das hilft, das Anhaften von Bakterien an der Blasenwand zu verhindern. Darüber hinaus ist es eine gute Quelle für Vitamin C. Daher können Sie Kaninchen, die von Harnwegserkrankungen geheilt sind, mit Cranberry-Tabletten basierend auf ihrem Vitamin-C-Gehalt ein- bis zweimal täglich 25 bis 50 mg Vitamin C pro Pfund Körpergewicht zufüttern. Verwenden Sie keinen Cranberry-Saft-Cocktail, der sehr wenig Cranberry-Saft enthält und zusätzlich mit Zucker beladen ist. Wenn Cranberry-Tabletten nicht verfügbar sind, verwenden Sie normale Vitamin-C-Kautabletten als Vitamin-C-Quelle. (HINWEIS: Ich bin mir nicht sicher, ob Cranberry-Saft seine Wirkung nicht über eine Ansäuerung des Urins entfaltet. Ist dies eine gute Idee bei einem Pflanzenfresser?) Antibiotika – Antibiotika können nach einer Operation oder Katheterisierung verschrieben werden, insbesondere wenn eine Blaseninfektion vermutet wird oder a positive Kultur wurde aus dem Urin oder der Blasenwand gewonnen. NICHT NÜTZLICH: Harnsäuerungsmittel – Aufgrund der Tatsache, dass Kaninchen Pflanzenfresser sind und ihr Urin normalerweise alkalisch ist, funktioniert die Verwendung von Produkten, die den Urin saurer machen, nicht nur nicht, sondern kann in einigen Fällen auch schädlich sein. Dies ist anders als bei Katzen, die Fleischfresser mit natürlich saurem Urin sind. Bei Katzen mit Blasensteinen ist es üblich, Harnsäuerungsmittel zu verabreichen oder spezielle Diäten zu füttern, die darauf abzielen, einen leicht sauren Urin zu erzeugen, um eine weitere Steinbildung zu verhindern. BEHANDLUNG UND VORBEUGUNG VON BLASENSTEINEN ODER SCHLAMM

Obwohl es keine Garantie dafür gibt, dass Harnwegssteine ​​oder -schlamm nach der Behandlung nicht wiederkehren, können Sie die Wahrscheinlichkeit eines erneuten Auftretens Ihres Haustieres erheblich verringern, indem Sie die folgenden Vorschläge befolgen. Wasserverbrauch erhöhen. Ich halte dies für den wichtigsten Faktor bei der Verhinderung des erneuten Auftretens von Blasensteinen und Schlamm. Wenn der Urin verdünnt gehalten wird, wird die Möglichkeit der Stein- oder Schlammbildung dramatisch verringert. Das Füttern von frischem Blattgemüse, das noch nass vom Waschen ist, hilft, die Wasseraufnahme zu erhöhen (siehe Hinweis dazu unten). Wenn Sie dem Trinkwasser einen natürlichen Süßstoff, keinen raffinierten Zucker, hinzufügen, wird Ihr Haustier dazu angeregt, deutlich mehr zu trinken. Natürliche Fruchtsäfte ohne Zuckerzusatz oder Honig sind eine ausgezeichnete Geschmackswahl. Testen Sie verschiedene Saftaromen, indem Sie sie Ihrem Kaninchen unverdünnt in einer Spritze direkt verabreichen. Wenn Ihr Haustier den Saft bereitwillig zu sich nimmt, versuchen Sie, ihn dem Trinkwasser hinzuzufügen. Notieren Sie, wie viel Wasser Ihr Haustier täglich verbraucht (dies ist mit Trinkflaschen einfach, da sie außen oft in Unzen angegeben sind). Verwenden Sie täglich frisches aromatisiertes Wasser und verringern Sie die Menge des Aromas allmählich, bis Sie sehen, dass das Kaninchen seinen Wasserverbrauch verringert. Erhöhen Sie an diesem Punkt das Aroma gerade genug, um den Wasserverbrauch wieder zu erhöhen, und verwenden Sie diese Menge an Aroma weiterhin täglich. Einige Aromen, mit denen Menschen Erfolg gemeldet haben, sind Ananas-, Trauben-, Apfel- und Kirschsaft sowie Aprikosen-, Pfirsich- oder Birnennektar und Honig. Kommerzielles Futter (Pellets)/Alfalfa-Heu aus dem Speiseplan streichen. Wie bereits in diesem Artikel besprochen, ist der Kalziumspiegel in der Nahrung nicht der primäre Faktor bei der Entstehung von Harnsteinen. Übermäßige Mengen an Kalzium, die über den täglichen Bedarf des Haustieres hinausgehen, können jedoch den Kalziumgehalt des Urins erhöhen und ein Problem bei einem Kaninchen darstellen, das bereits unter Harnsteinen leidet. Kommerzielles Kaninchenfutter auf Alfalfa-Basis ist vollgepackt mit verdaulichem Kalzium und ich empfehle, es aus dem Futter zu entfernen. Alfalfa hay also has very high digestible calcium content and should be removed. The recommended diet for a house rabbit is grass hay (e.g. timothy,oat, or orchard grass hay) along with large amounts of fresh leafy greens, and some smaller amounts of fruits and other vegetables. If pellets are to be fed, they should be grass hay based. Feed large amounts of fresh leafy greens.Fresh leafy greens are not only an excellent source of fluid for the rabbit (to keep the urine dilute) but also contain a variety of nutrients (including vitamin C) and fiber (for the digestive tract). Use dark leafy greens that are richer in nutrients than the pale green types. Feed a minimum of three different types of greens daily. Don‰¥út stick to just one type. Examples of greens to feed include kale, mustard greens, dandelion greens, parsley, cilantro, chard, beet tops, carrot tops, raspberry leaves, broccoli leaves, and romaine lettuce.

As mentioned previously, although the calcium content of dark leafy greens is higher than some other foods, it is not all digestible and doesn’t approach the level of commercial alfalfa-based pellets or alfalfa hay. NEVER attempt to remove all calcium sources from a rabbit’s diet or problems with abnormally low calcium blood levels, such as bone, dental and muscle disease can occur. I do not consider feeding dark leafy greens a part of the problem causing urinary calculi, and, in fact, I consider these foods to be an essential part of a healthy rabbit diet. I do not restrict the type of leafy green based on calcium content. Exercise. Exercise is extremely important to cause the rabbit to urinate more frequently, moves the urine around in the bladder and keeps it mixed instead of stagnant, as well as causing the rabbit to consume more water. In addition to helping with the urinary problem, exercise helps to strengthen bones and improve the rabbit’s mental attitude. Routine veterinary checkups. It is necessary to follow up your pet’s progress with routine rechecks with your veterinarian. A urinalysis should be performed several times during the first few weeks after surgery or catheterization to detect any infection or increase in mineral formation. A physical examination should be performed post-surgically to evaluate healing of the bladder and abdomen. Radiographs should be performed within six months initial treatment to look for the return of stones or sludge in the urinary tract. Please follow your veterinarian’s recommendations on recheck visits. FINAL WORD

Twenty to thirty years ago, when we first dealt with rabbits that had bladder stones or sludge, the prognosis for successful treatment and further prevention was dismal. Many rabbits were euthanized because recurrence of the disease was so common. Thankfully, we now have a better understanding of this disorder and improved techniques for working with rabbits, and thus the prognosis is tremendously improved. The majority of rabbits can recover completely from this problem. Although the prognosis must remain guarded because each patient has his or her own individual response to therapy, a diagnosis of bladder stones or sludge need not be the death sentence it was not so long ago. *The author thanks Jeff Rhody, DVM for his invaluable assistance in editing this article.

*Reviewed and approved by the HRS Health Committee 9/06

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