Can You Glass Bed A Synthetic Stock? The 57 New Answer

Are you looking for an answer to the topic “can you glass bed a synthetic stock“? We answer all your questions at the website https://chewathai27.com/ppa in category: https://chewathai27.com/ppa/blog/. You will find the answer right below.

Can you bed a plastic rifle stock?

You’ll bed the rifle at four points: recoil lug, back of tang, around the two guard screws. A metal epoxy, such as Devcon, is used to create the bedding. Modeling clay is used to control its flow in the stock. If this doesn’t work for you, the block in front of the lug can be removed.

Is glass bedding a rifle necessary?

Glass bedding should be considered if the current bedding is cracked or broken in any way. It can become necessary over time after the gun is repeatedly cleaned with certain cleaning agents. If you have noticed accuracy issues with your rifle, glass bedding may give you back the accuracy you want.

Can you paint a synthetic stock?

Unfortunately, they’re not as attractive as traditional wooden stocks. However you can easily customize your rifle stock by painting it to your liking. Epoxy-based primers and paints are particularly well suited for synthetic stocks. Before preparing your rifle for painting, verify that your rifle is unloaded.

What does pillar bedding a rifle mean?

The process is called pillar bedding because the rifle’s action is supported on non-compressible “pillars” that are rigidly bedded in the stock to help eliminate accuracy problems stemming from faulty, action-stressing, metal-to-wood fitting.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

One of the surest ways to improve the accuracy of a bolt-action rifle is the relatively simple gunsmith trick known as pillar bedding.

The process is called pillar bedding because the rifle’s action is supported on non-compressible ‘pillars’ that are firmly embedded in the stock to prevent accuracy problems attributed to faulty, action-stressing metal-to-wood joints.

Recently, Darrel Holland, a manufacturer of gun accessories designed to improve accuracy, introduced a complete system (priced at $289) that makes the process virtually foolproof for even a beginner. The key to Holland’s system is replacing your original stock with a rigid, laminated stock that is completely finished on the outside and pre-set for the columns and customization of your running system. The Dutch stocks come in both the Hunter style and the Varmint/Target style with a wide forend like the one I used in this Saturday morning project.

Contact: Darrell Holland Gunsmith, P.O. Field 69, Powers, OR 97466; 541-439-5155; www.hollandguns.com.

What you need

The Holland Pillar Bedding System includes everything you need to make the project quick and easy. Seen here are the Holland aluminum pillars, the resin bedding kit, the syringe to inject the bedding epoxy into the inlet port, the release agent (which prevents the system and other metal parts from being permanently glued into the stock), and even rubber gloves to keep your hands on during the final embedding free of epoxy. The Holland columns also include a new set of action screws that fit the columns better than the original action screws. The laminated wood Holland stock is delivered pre-formed, finished and ready to fire after the column bedding is complete. The shaft’s action inlet is pre-cut for mounting the columns and includes cutouts in the inlet for the bedding epoxy.

1. The first step in stock preparation is to roughen and enlarge the recessed areas to make room for the epoxy bedstock. This also provides better adhesion as epoxy does not adhere well to oiled or painted surfaces.

[pagebreak] 2.Here I am attaching the prefabricated aluminum columns to a Remington Model 700 Action. Attaching the supports prior to fitting them into stock will ensure proper alignment of the supports when the bedding work is complete.

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3. Once the aluminum columns are attached to the system, apply a coat of 5 minute epoxy to the columns before inserting them into the shaft. Be careful not to get epoxy in the holes underneath the protection screws.

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4. When the five minute epoxy sets, the pillars are firmly bonded to the wood. Now take the mechanics off and leave the columns perfectly aligned so they will fit properly later. The plastic tape in the barrel channel prevents the epoxy from sticking to the channel before the action. Wrap the barrel in tape as well to prevent epoxy from sticking and to ensure a “free-floating” fit.

[pagebreak] 5. After removing the trigger assembly, press modeling clay into the cutouts to block any epoxy that might flow into the small openings. This makes cleaning easier after the bedding epoxy has cured. Next, spray the entire action with a coat of release agent to keep the epoxy from sticking to the metal.

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6. Spray an epoxy release agent on the receiver to ensure it does not become firmly bonded to the backing when the epoxy cures. Be sure to spray the release agent both inside and outside of the receiver to prevent epoxy from sticking. If necessary, reapply the release agent until the metal parts are evenly coated.

[Page Break] 7. A simple and virtually mess-free method of applying the prepared bedding compound is to use the syringe that comes with the Holland Pillar Bedding Kit. (It’s a bit like decorating a cake.) Fill in the magazine and trigger cutouts with paper towels to prevent excess epoxy from flowing into these areas and to make cleaning easier.

[pagebreak] 8. Allow the epoxy to cure for approximately 24 hours. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the barrel action. Remove the paper towels that clogged the trigger and magazine ports, then file the edges where the epoxy overflowed until smooth.

[pagebreak] Here is a perfect work for column bedding/epoxy bedding. Now all you have to do is drop the barrel into the stock and secure the locking lugs. I used a thicker Holland recoil eyelet as shown here which is a worthwhile upgrade for the Remington 700 action.

[pagebreak] In place, the bedding piers and epoxy are completely hidden. The inlet is so tight that the wood-to-metal fit looks like hand assembly by a skilled stock maker. Aside from waiting for the epoxy to cure, the job only took a few hours.

Is a free floating barrel more accurate?

When we say that free-floating a barrel improves accuracy, what we really mean is that it improves precision, the ability of the rifle to shoot the bullets to the same spot each time.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

This post shares some data that I think many readers will find most intriguing. A true “before and after” comparison of free float accuracy. The question of whether or not to levitate my Ar15 has been asked countless times, but often without definitive examples. Well, we have a definitive example. Without further ado… is it worth levitating an AR15 barrel?

question

The AR-15 rifle has increased in popularity and availability in recent years, and perhaps the most common decision a prospective buyer or owner must make is whether to use standard handguards or handguards that allow the barrel to float freely. I’ve bought and built several ARs, and I’ve always resisted the temptation to spend the extra money to outfit one with a free-floating handguard. I’ve been told repeatedly that a free-floating handguard increases accuracy by reducing contact points on the barrel, allowing it to vibrate freely, and it seems every “tactically cool” rifle on the market has one, and yet I resisted. I searched but couldn’t find any before and after tests that showed the worth of levitating a general purpose AR, so I decided to give it a try myself. I would test a single rifle that uses standard handguards, modify that rifle to use a free-floating handguard with no other modifications, and then test that rifle again.

method

When we say that a free-floating barrel improves accuracy, we actually mean that it improves precision, the rifle’s ability to put the bullets in the same spot every time. A rifle’s accuracy is determined by firing multiple shots at the same aiming point and then measuring the size of the group, and the smaller the group the better. The most common and simple measurement method is to measure the distance between the two furthest bullet holes. This is called the extreme spread method and is very easy to do. However, it only gives the distance between the two worst shots. It doesn’t say anything about the consistency of the other recordings in the group, and that’s the consistency we really want to explore. A better method is to find the center of the group and then average the distance of the shots to that center. This is a more technical method, but it gives information about each shot in the group. I used this second method, called mean radius (or average to center), and I used groups of ten shots each. Because this method is quite technical and tedious to do by hand, I used a software program called On Target, which is available for free on the internet.

gear

The rifle I used was a factory fitted BCM flat top receiver with a 20″ barrel with a 5.56 chambered government profile and a 1/7 twist rate using standard handguards. This is as close to a GI rifle as I could find. This upper was paired with a generic fixed stock lower receiver and standard trigger group. For optics, I chose a SWFA 10x Super Sniper Mil-Dot mounted in an American Defense Scout mount. The ammunition tested was a variety of target, vermin and hunting loads, all factory new and commonly available. Since a standard box holds 20 rounds, I used a single ammo box for each test – 10 rounds before and the remaining 10 rounds after the handguard change.

For the free-float handguard, I chose a two-piece unit from Midwest Industries that allows installation without removing the barrel nut or barrel, their Gen2 model. I chose this product primarily because it is very easy to install, requires no serious gunsmith or tools, and requires no barrel modification or adjustment. This last part was very important as I didn’t want to change or alter anything other than the handguard itself and leave the barrel action as it was before the change. That way, any difference in the rifle’s accuracy after the change can only be attributed to the handguard change.

On the shooting bench I used a front support in the center of the handguard and a rear rabbit ear pocket. I used typical bench rest shooting techniques and shot in a continuous row with about a minute between each shot. Targets were placed at 100 yards and I chose days with the same weather conditions for both tests.

tests and results

I realize that perhaps the biggest variable in this experiment is my shooting ability, so I spent several days at the range simply practicing my technique and making sure the equipment was performing as I expected. Believe it or not, shooting is work, and it took more than a few tries and adjustments to be convinced I was shooting the rifle as well as one could reasonably expect. But it was fun and satisfying to seriously test my shooting skills.

Results for 10-shot groups fired from the bench at 100 yards, average distance to center in inches. A negative percentage change means that the groups have been reduced.

As can be seen from the data table, most of the ammunition showed a reduction in group size after the handguard change. I was surprised at how big the differences were in some cases, which led me to conclude that the results can be highly dependent on the type of ammunition used. But two of the selected ammo loads were unexpectedly grouped larger after switching. I convinced myself that there must have been a mistake on my part in the second test, so on a similar day I went back to the range to shoot these two underperforming loads again, but got almost exactly the same results. I’m not sure what to think of this. Maybe I just had a fantastic day on the range for both of these loads the first time around, or maybe the barrel has its own specific ammo preferences.

Granted, my results are those of a single test only and may not be typical. But if I were to draw a general conclusion, it would be mixed. Overall, the average group size reduction for the different munitions tested was 23%, which is significant, but not all groups were reduced and the results varied widely. For a rifle fit for defensive or patrol use, even the worst group loaded with federal FMJ ammo was still easily capable of firing a 2-2.5 inch 10-round group using the original standard handguards Producing 100 yards, which is more than enough for hitting head-high targets out to 500 yards.

Interestingly, I was able to draw a few other conclusions from this test in addition to the question of whether the barrel was floating freely. In my time practicing checking gear and honing my skills, I discovered that ammo quality mattered more than I thought. Some of the cheap loads I wanted to test had to be abandoned because they were just junk and unable to produce reasonably repeatable groups. These are loads I regularly use in informal shooting, but they were unsuitable for precision work. You must use quality ammo if you want to maximize your rifle’s potential. Another point I missed was the trigger. My standard trigger pull wasn’t bad, but after hours of trying to work past creep and sand, I became frustrated and impatient trying to break the shot clean. I recently bought an upgraded trigger and I really appreciate what smoothness can do for an accurate shot.

My conclusion would be this advice: For a general-purpose AR-15, either for patrol rifle or for home defense, a free-floating barrel is not an immediate necessity. A quality base rifle will perform reasonably well, and the standard handguard design offers more than enough accuracy potential for general use. If you’re looking for upgrades or improved accuracy results, I would first recommend spending money on quality ammo, good optics and mounts, and maybe a smooth trigger, in that order. The next investment would be to spend time at the range and learn to shoot the rifle to its potential. Only after success in these areas would I then think about free levitation.

What is the advantage of a free floating barrel?

This minimizes the variance in possible mechanical pressure distortions of the barrel alignment, and allows vibration to occur at the natural frequency consistently and uniformly, shot-by-shot.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

A free-floating barrel is a firearm design used in precision rifles, particularly match-quality benchrest rifles, to add precision to the weapon system.

In conventional rifles, the barrel of the rifle rests against the forearm of the rifle stock over its entire length. If the stock is made of wood, the wood can be warped by environmental conditions or operational use, which can also cause the barrel to change slightly over time, changing the external ballistics of the projectile and therefore the point of impact. The contact between the barrel and stock also disrupts the natural frequency of the barrel, which can be detrimental to accuracy, especially when the barrel gets hot from repeated firing. The interference of the stock with the barrel’s oscillatory harmonics as the bullet travels down the bore can cause the barrel to vibrate unevenly from shot to shot, depending on the external forces acting on the stock at the time of the shot. Micro-vibrations acting during the passage of the bullet lead to differences in the trajectory when the bullet leaves the bore, changing the point of impact downwards.

A free-floating barrel is one in which the barrel and stock are designed not to touch at any point along the length of the barrel. The barrel is attached to its receiver, which is attached to the stock, but the barrel “floats freely” without touching other weapon parts (except for the rear sight, which is often barrel-mounted). This minimizes the variance of potential mechanical pressure distortions of barrel alignment and allows oscillations at the natural frequency to occur consistently and evenly shot after shot.

Alternatives include using a stock made of composite materials that don’t deform as much with temperature or humidity changes, or a wooden stock with a fiberglass contact surface (so-called “glass bedding”). Barrel-contacting stocks are still popular for many utility guns, although most sniper rifle designs have largely adopted free-floating barrels.

Do Boyds stocks need to be bedded?

Boyds stocks are meticulously engineered and machined from the most stable materials to maintain a free floated barrel to reduce the opportunity for collision between the barrel and stock. However, in some cases it’s recommended to bed your action.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

How to Glaze Your Rifle – by Randy Boyd

When you fire your rifle, an upward movement of the barrel is created, which creates a pulling action on the stock. Depending on the caliber, this can get pretty intense. Unless your action is firmly embedded in the stock, this movement can create the opportunity for your barrel and stock to collide and change the point of impact of your shot. Boyds stocks are carefully constructed from the strongest materials and machined to maintain a free-floating barrel and reduce the possibility of barrel-stock collisions. However, in some cases it is recommended to bet your action. First in heavy magnums or excessive recoil firearms. Whilst we incorporate reinforcing cross bolts into all of our stocks, embedding your action on these firearms is added security and is highly recommended. Another case is this gun, out of the box, stock and gun consistently shot under a 1 inch group at 100 yards. I’d like to improve this though, so glass bedding on the stock will pretty much eliminate that movement you see when the action isn’t screwed into the stock.

Do I need to bed my stock?

If you choose a stock without a mini chassis, you must have it glass bedded with pillars. At minimum, the pillars must be installed and the lug area bedded. The pillars prevent stock crush over time, keeping the torque values consistent.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

If you choose a stock without a mini chassis, you will need to glass bed it with pillars. At least the supports have to be installed and the tunnel area has to be bedded. The pillars prevent crushing of the bearing over time and keep torque values ​​constant. We build our stocks with tolerances that a competent gunsmith needs for your action. The glass bedding ensures your action stays safe and repeatable for a lifetime of use. The bedding gives your running action a mirrored fit and helps with accuracy, repeatability and durability.

Does rifle stock affect accuracy?

For accuracy, everything must be the same every time a shooter aims at a target. Bedding a rifle stock can help the shooter be successful. When the action is rock steady into the stock while shooting, there is no movement, and accuracy is more consistent.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

One of the top concerns of many shooters is accuracy, especially for hunters. Missing the target is frustrating, and not being able to hit the intended target every time you aim means you’re not making full use of your rifle. Accuracy certainly depends on the shooter’s skill, but other factors can affect it. One of them is the stability of the weapon mechanism. In this article we talk about how bedding a rifle stock can improve accuracy and shooting.

Rifle stock bedding & accuracy: a strong correlation

Accuracy simply means being able to hit the target consistently, intentionally, and repeatedly. This is what all shooters strive for when choosing their weapon. When hunting, it is frustrating not to hit the target; in a defensive situation it can be the difference between life and death. That’s why accuracy is so important.

Stability is one of the main characteristics that affect accuracy, and bedding on the shaft can go a long way towards improving this characteristic. Let us talk about that.

What does rifle stock bedding mean?

When the rifle mechanism is inserted directly into the stock, after a series of shots, the recoil movement can create a slight gap between the action and the stock. This gap affects the stability of the rifle and ultimately its accuracy. Bedding a rifle stock means inserting a metal insert during the production process of the rifle stock, which becomes an integral part of the stock. This metal insert creates a solid and stable base on which the barrel is mounted and protects the stock from recoil shocks, preventing deformation.

What does glass bedding mean for a rifle?

Glass bedding means that an epoxy based material is poured onto the rifle stock to fill any gaps between the stock and action and provide a more stable foundation for the rifle’s functional parts. When done correctly, glass bedding allows for the most perfect fit possible and improves accuracy.

There are two main reasons that can affect accuracy when shooting:

Rifle breech moves and vibrates within the rifle stock with each shot; If the barrel can’t move the same way every time, the bullet will always have a different trajectory, hit the target differently, and even miss

with every shot in the rifle stock; If the barrel can’t move the same way every time, the bullet will always have a different trajectory, hit the target differently, and even miss. Rifle action is subject to movement and stress. Each shot causes recoil, causing the action to bounce back and forth violently. Accuracy can be compromised if the action doesn’t return to the same point after each shot

Everything has to be the same every time a shooter takes aim at a target for the sake of accuracy. Bedding a rifle stock can help the shooter be successful. When the action is rock solid into the stock when firing, there is no movement and accuracy is more consistent.

The bedding provides a rigid aluminum base for the stock, creating a stable and tight bearing surface between the weapon’s working parts and the stock, which reduces movement and avoids breakage or deformation during firing or after recoil. Unloading increases accuracy because the mechanics don’t bend when tightening the screws that hold the mechanics to the stock. When the flex occurs, it introduces inconsistency and loss of accuracy over time.

Another positive aspect is that embedding a rifle stock helps extend the life of the stock itself. The repetitive motions caused by each recoil cause continuous friction that can wear down and ruin the stock’s surface. Proper bedding protects the stock from deformation, friction and stress from recoil when shooting.

The importance of choosing the right supplier

Bedding is a delicate, lengthy and costly process for the manufacturer, so there is a risk that they will use erroneous methods to speed up the process, resulting in poor performance.

You also have to keep in mind that not all bed jobs are successful. If the rifle was bedded prior to purchase but the rifle is not accurate it may need to be rebedded with more attention to detail.

Wood is the best material for rifle stocks, but it is also difficult to work with due to the different tolerances that have to be taken into account. Being a natural material, it is constantly changing and moving, and if the manufacturer does not take these specific tolerances into account, accuracy will also be negatively impacted.

Thanks to its modern and innovative machine park and its expert team, Minelli is the only supplier able to offer full bed products where the aluminum component is processed at the same time as the wood. This means that the problem of tolerances can be avoided and the shaft is a unique block of material (wood + aluminum) that is fully integrated. This makes the gun and gun stock much more stable and resistant and cannot be damaged when shot. When bedding is not an option, the company has also developed a cylindrical metal inlay that supports and reinforces the stock during firing to prevent breakage or damage.

If you have an idea or project in mind, contact us now. We will be happy to help you! Click here.

Can you Cerakote a synthetic stock?

Can you Cerakote a synthetic stock? Yes you can! Or anything polymer/ plastic that can be prepped and cleaned properly without damaging the material. An example of this would be any plastic, polymer, or rubber that is soft or too flexible for the coating to fully harden and remain durable.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

Latest and most popular Cerakote shades here:

https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/?tab=coatings&cat=HSERIES

Cerakote colors on bolt-action rifles:

https://www.cerakote.com/gallery/?tab=trending&orderby=trending&htids=2335

Cerakote colors on AR-15 rifles:

https://www.cerakote.com/gallery/?tab=trending&orderby=trending&htids=2120

Cerakote colors on AK rifles:

https://www.cerakote.com/gallery/?tab=trending&orderby=trending&htids=7029

Cerakote colors glocks:

https://www.cerakote.com/gallery/?tab=trending&orderby=trending&htids=609

Cerakote Brown:

https://www.cerakote.com/gallery/?tab=color&color=cgbrown%2Ccgbrnz%2Ccgtan

What materials can you use Cerakote?

Cerakote can be applied to most substrates including but not limited to: aluminum, steel, titanium, brass, copper, chrome plating, glass, polymers, plastics, wood and even some fabrics! Depending on the series used, baking may or may not be required, so items and materials that cannot be oven cured can still be coated. The H Series and Elite Series can be baked at lower temperatures on a longer cycle if required. The C series is the air cured version, well suited for fabrics, plastics, temperature sensitive materials, electronics etc.

Which is better Duracoat or Cerakote?

Both offer good protection and good looks, but in our testing and experience, Cerakote is superior in terms of corrosion resistance, durability, hardness, color choice, color matching of factory applied Cerakote, UV stability, adhesion and temperature resistance.

Can you cerakote a synthetic shaft?

Yes you can! Or anything polymer/plastic that can be properly prepared and cleaned without damaging the material. An example of this would be any plastic, polymer or rubber that is soft or too flexible for the coating to fully cure and remain permanent.

What are the pros and cons of nickel plating, black oxide plating, nitriding, parkerizing, keraoting, or dura coating a firearm?

There is no easy answer to this and it depends heavily on the application of the gun or parts to be coated. Nickel-boron or Nibx coatings are primarily used on low-friction contact points such as bolts, bolt carriers, charging handles, trigger groups, and anywhere a slippery, almost polished contact surface is needed. Nickel plating has long been used on some firearms where a unique look, engravings or better corrosion resistance than steel is required.

Blueing is one of the oldest gun protection methods. It looks great and has many uses. However, it offers poor abrasion resistance and can be chemically and moisture sensitive and requires regular maintenance to maintain its corrosion resistance.

Nitriding, also known as melonite, parkerizing, tin/titanium nitriding, etc., provides a chemical bond into the metal substrate. This makes for a very durable, hard wearing and corrosion resistant treatment. Even new parts require extended cleaning and preparation to achieve proper connection and/or appearance. Applications are usually limited to small wear parts that experience a lot of contact or friction. Barrels, cartridge chambers, bores and closures also benefit from these coatings. It is limited in terms of colors, ease of use, and substrate compatibility.

Duracoat, Gun Coat, Poly Coat, etc. are popular gun coatings. They must be applied to an acceptable substrate. Colors are currently limited compared to Cerakote. The ease of use for “DIY” applications appeals to those who want to finish their own parts. The choice of application must be carefully considered due to tolerances, heat resistance, corrosion resistance, color stability and chemical resistance compared to Cerakote.

Cerakote offers more color and application options than any other firearm coating available. A product line is also available for many uses other than firearms. As shown and documented, it has been extensively tested and is currently used by more manufacturers than any other firearm or high temperature ceramic coating in the world. Depending on the series, Cerakote offers a temperature resistance of 300 to 2000 degrees.

Click here for the CERAKOTE Series Guide

Cerakote continues to innovate and test its products, resulting in a superior product for your application!

How is Cerakote useful for weapons?

Cerakote has the main advantage of being a “thin film” coating. This makes it ideal for tight tolerance parts found on almost every firearm! Temperature resistance up to 500 degrees. on most firearms provides durability and adhesion when it matters most. Combined with ceramic technology, this provides a highly wear-resistant coating while maintaining functionality and reliability. Then there is the almost endless choice of colors, custom blends and a professional applicator network! As if that weren’t enough, it also offers excellent corrosion resistance, chemical resistance and UV stability.

Please don’t take our word for it, take a look at the test data which can be found here: https://www.cerakote.com/testing/

What is Cerakote?

Cerakote is a polymer-ceramic composite coating that can be applied to metals, plastics, polymers and wood. The unique formulation used for Cerakote ceramic coating improves a number of physical performance properties including abrasion/wear resistance, corrosion resistance, chemical resistance, impact strength and hardness. Each of these properties is rigorously tested to ensure Cerakote products remain at the forefront of the ceramic coatings market. Cerakote ceramic coatings use state-of-the-art technology to outperform any competing coating in both laboratory settings and real-world applications.

Is Cerakote bad for your gun?

While Cerakote may not work for every single application out there, it excels when it comes to firearms. As long as the substrate is compatible and properly prepared, the benefits are superior compared to other offerings. However, we emphasize that depending on the preparation and application, there may be differences in the final result and the quality of the finish. We recommend only using a factory trained and certified applicator like Vixen Tactical!

What do you put in synthetic gun stock?

If you just want to get some dirt and dust off of the synthetic stock, regular soap and water will do the trick. You can rub it with any type of soap you want, such as Dial. Just rub it with some soap and wipe clean with water. Some people swear by bottled water – like Aquafina.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

The reason most gun owners choose a synthetic gun stock is the low maintenance that comes with it. However, a synthetic shaft requires some attention. One of the most frequently asked questions is how to clean a synthetic gun stock. There are actually a few different ways to clean a synthetic gun stock depending on what you want it to look like afterwards.

soap and water

If you just want to remove some dirt and dust from the synthetic material, regular soap and water will do. You can rub it with any type of soap you like, e.g. B. Dial. Just rub it with some soap and wipe it with water.

Some swear by mineral water – like Aquafina. They believe it helps prevent gun stains. Just use a dry cloth to wipe it completely. Try it out to see if it works for you.

Bring back the shine

If the synthetic stock looks dull, you can bring back the shine with ArmorAll. This is a product that is widely used on cars to shine the interior dashboard. You can apply a small amount to the gun to keep it looking new. Be careful not to use too much as this can make the stock slippery. Wipe stock with a dry, lint-free cloth to remove slickness if you overuse the product.

Free yourself

Breakfree is another automotive product that can be used. It will do essentially the same thing as the ArmorAll but doesn’t produce the slip resistance that the ArmorAll can.

Black shoe polish

Black shoe polish can be used after washing your synthetic shoe with soap and water. It’s a great way to cover up scratches or other dents and dents. The other benefit of using shoe polish is that the upper becomes much more resistant to water.

gun oil

Gun oil is perfect. It adds shine to the synthetic shaft without making it slippery. You just have to make sure you wipe it completely.

You now have many options for cleaning your synthetic gun stock. Most synthetic stock owners find something they like and keep using it. It’s better to start with something simple first to see how it works for you. If it doesn’t give you the cleanliness you want, try something like gun oil, ArmorAll, or shoe polish. Using trial and error, you’ll find the best way to keep your synthetic stock looking its best.

Image courtesy of www.gunsholstersandgear.com

What are synthetic gun stocks made of?

Synthetic materials for handgun stocks include a variety of molded plastics of various colors, as well as laminates such as Micarta, a high-pressure laminate of layers of linen cloth and resinous binders. Also popular are various soft-rubber units of one- or two-piece construction.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

Recently we published an article about wooden stocks for long guns and how to make them. Although many hunters and shooters prefer the aesthetics of a wooden stock, there are reasons other people prefer synthetic stocks. For example, gun stocks made from solid wood often suffer from dimensional instability when exposed to moisture, high humidity, or temperature changes. When this happens, the shaft swells and warps, significantly affecting accuracy and dramatically shifting the aiming point. Here are the pros and cons (as well as the why and how). Plywood stocks of one or two species of wood that are cut into strips and glued together lengthwise can help alleviate the problem of warping caused by environmental conditions. High-strength epoxy glue impregnates the wood under high pressure and ensures good adhesion. The grain of each layer of wood is oriented at right angles to its neighbors for added strength and stability. The thickness and type of laminates vary, although most commercial laminated shafts use layers of birch about one-sixteenth of an inch thick. Because laminated stocks are significantly stronger than solid wood stocks, they are a preferred choice for target or varmint rifles. For many shooters, the distinctive look of layered stocks adds to their appeal. However, laminated wood stock is heavier and can be more expensive than solid wood stock of the same dimensions…and it can still warp as excess moisture is absorbed. Even with proper sealing, laminated wood materials are susceptible to warping, swelling or other dimensional changes due to moisture absorption or release. In addition, wood can deteriorate from contact with solvents or gun oils; In fact, softening of the wood in the bedding area from repeated exposure to gun oil is a common problem. Wood can also be damaged as a result of accumulated stress from recoil or from weakness at a critical point, such as a point. B. the wrist tear. As a result, shaft manufacturers have long sought stronger alternatives to wood. In the 1970s, several companies began manufacturing fiberglass rifle stocks. Glass fiber fabric is strong, dimensionally stable, solvent-resistant and insensitive to moisture, moisture or temperature fluctuations. In addition, it has shock absorbing properties that reduce perceived recoil. The original technique developed to manufacture fiberglass shafts is still used today. Layers of fiberglass are laid by hand in a mold, with epoxy resin binding the layers into a solid form. Next, the cavity in the raw material is filled with polyurethane foam and catalyst, which expands outward and presses the layers of resin-impregnated fiberglass fabric tightly against the inside of the mold. When the bladder is deflated and removed, the space is filled with fiberglass beads or strands mixed with epoxy. Color can be added to the fiberglass layers during the molding process to create an integral surface that will not chip, peel or crack and require no maintenance. Alternatively, an approximately 0.04 inch thick gel coat may be applied to the final material. Such liveries can become showcases of art with complex designs, scenes and different colors. Recently, other fabric materials have been used in conjunction with fiberglass such as Kevlar and carbon fiber. In most cases, such materials are used to complement rather than replace fiberglass fabric – for example in high wear areas such as the wrist and forend. One such example, Dupont’s Kevlar para-aramid fiber, known for its use in bulletproof vests, is five times stronger than steel for the same weight. However, it is significantly more expensive than fiberglass, not stiff enough to be used as the sole material in a long gun stock, and is more difficult to mold. Carbon or graphite fiber cloths offer low weight with a high stiffness-to-weight ratio, making them useful for stocks that need to be ultra-light but stiff, such as B. Benchrest and other competition stocks. However, carbon or graphite fibers are extremely expensive and their directional stability often requires complex build-up patterns. Synthetic stocks made from injection molded plastic, such as nylon, have been used successfully for rifle stocks since the early 1960’s. This type of inexpensive, lightweight, and strong stock is suitable for rimfire rifles and airguns, but lacks the strength needed for centerfire rifles or shotguns. These advances allow for a significant increase in the strength of molded rifle stocks, making them sufficiently strong for use in centerfire rifles and shotguns. Although less stiff than laid-up fiberglass stocks, molded rifle stocks are inexpensive, weather resistant, require little to no maintenance, and can withstand significant stress. They can also be molded into shapes difficult or impossible to produce in wood, and the color or camouflage pattern can be molded into the stock material itself B. micarta, a high-pressure laminate of layers of linen fabric and resinous binders. Various soft rubber units in one- or two-piece construction are also popular. Rubber grips absorb recoil and provide a safer gripping surface. This makes for a more comfortable range experience, but may not be suitable for concealed carry as their non-slip surfaces tend to stick to clothing and reveal the presence of a weapon.

What is stock free float?

Free-float methodology is a method of calculating the market capitalization of a stock market index’s underlying companies. Using this methodology, the market capitalization of a company is calculated by taking the equity’s price and multiplying it by the number of shares readily available in the market.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

What is free float methodology?

The free float method is a method of calculating the market capitalization of the companies underlying a stock market index. In the free float method, market capitalization is calculated by multiplying the stock price by the number of shares readily available in the market.

Instead of using all shares (both active and inactive shares) as is the case with the full market capitalization method, the free float method excludes restricted shares such as those held by insiders, promoters and governments.

Key Takeaways The free float method is a method of calculating the market capitalization of the companies underlying a stock market index.

This method calculates a company’s market capitalization by multiplying its stock price by the number of shares readily available in the market.

The free float method can be contrasted with the full market capitalization method, which includes both active and inactive stocks in its calculation when determining market capitalization.

The free float method excludes restricted shares such as those held by insiders, promoters and governments.

1:00 free float methodology

Understanding the free float methodology

The free float methodology is sometimes referred to as free float adjusted capitalization. According to some experts, the free float method is considered a better method of calculating market capitalization (as opposed to, for example, the full market capitalization method).

Full market capitalization includes all shares that a company makes available under its stock issuance plan. Companies often issue unvested shares to insiders as part of stock option compensation plans. Other holders of unexercised shares may be promoters and governments. Full market capitalization weighting for indices is rarely used and would significantly alter an index’s earnings dynamics as companies at various levels have strategic plans for issuing stock options and vesting stocks.

The free float methodology is typically intended to more accurately reflect market movements and stocks that are actively available for trading in the market. When using a free float method, the resulting market capitalization is smaller than what would result from a full market capitalization method.

An index that uses a free float methodology tends to reflect market trends as it only considers stocks available for trading. It also broadens the index because it reduces the concentration of the top few companies in the index.

How to calculate market cap using the free float method

The free float method is calculated as follows:

FFM = share price x (number of shares in issue – blocked shares)

The free float methodology has been adopted by many of the world’s major indices. It is used by the S&P 500 Index, the Morgan Stanley Capital International (MSCI) World Index and the Financial Times Stock Exchange Group (FTSE) 100 Index.

There is also a correlation between the free float methodology and volatility. The number of shares in a company’s free float is inversely correlated with volatility. Typically, a larger free float means the stock’s volatility has been lower as more traders buy and sell the shares. This means that lower free float equates to higher volatility (since fewer trades move the price significantly and a limited number of shares are available to buy and/or sell). Most institutional investors prefer trading companies with a larger free float because they can buy or sell a large number of shares without having a large impact on the price.

Price weighted vs. market cap weighted

Indices in the market are usually weighted either by price or by market capitalization. Both methods weight the returns of the individual stocks of the indices according to their respective weight types. Market cap weighting is the most common method of index weighting. The leading capitalization-weighted index in the United States is the S&P 500 Index.

The type of weighting method used by an index has a significant impact on the total return of the index. Price-weighted indices calculate an index’s returns by weighting the individual stock returns in the index by their price levels. In a price-weighted index, stocks with a higher price are given a higher weight and therefore have more impact on the index’s return (regardless of their market capitalization). Price-weighted indices and cap-weighted indices differ significantly due to their index methodology.

In the trading market, very few indices are price-weighted. The Dow Jones Industrial Average (DJIA) is an example of one of the few price-weighted indices on the market.

Free float methodology example

Let’s say ABC stock is trading at $100 and has a total of 125,000 shares. Of these, 25,000 shares are restricted (meaning they are held by large institutional investors and company management and are not available for trading). Using the free float method, ABC’s market capitalization is 100 x 100,000 (total number of shares available for trading) = $10 million.

Does the free float change?

Additionally, as restricted shares become unrestricted, the unrestricted shares increase the free float. Conversely, a company can decrease its free float by doing share buybacks or a reverse stock split.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

Free float shares of a company that can be publicly traded and are not restricted. Written by the CFI team. Updated January 21, 2022

What is free float?

Free float, also known as public float, refers to a company’s shares that can be publicly traded and are not restricted (i.e. held by insiders). In other words, the term is used to describe the number of shares available to the public for trading on the secondary market.

Formula for the free float

Where:

Outstanding shares refer to the number of shares held by all shareholders of the company

Restricted shares refer to shares that are not transferrable until certain conditions are met. Restricted shares are generally held by senior management, such as officers and directors.

“Closed Shares” refers to shares that are typically held for a very long time. Examples include long-term major shareholders and insiders.

Example of free float

Company A is a public company with 1,000,000 authorized shares. As per the company’s balance sheet, the total common shares outstanding currently stand at 500,000 (of which 50,000 are held by the company’s CEO and CFO), while 80,000 are held in treasury. Determine the free float of company A.

The information provided above is presented as follows:

Authorized Shares: 1,000,000

Outstanding common shares: 500,000

Restricted/closely held shares: 50,000

Own shares: 80,000

Company A’s free float is 450,000 shares (500,000 – 50,000).

Determination of Free Float Percentage

Free float percentage, also known as float percentage of total shares outstanding, simply shows the percentage of shares outstanding that are freely trading.

In the example above, the free float percentage would be 90% (450,000 / 500,000).

How to increase or decrease free float volume

A company’s outstanding shares may go down as well as up as a result of management decisions. For example, a company may increase its free float by selling shares in a secondary offering or by conducting a stock split.

In addition, the unrestricted shares increase free float as restricted shares become unrestricted. Conversely, a company can reduce its free float through share buybacks or a reverse stock split.

Importance of free float for investors

The free float of a stock is closely scrutinized by investors and is an important metric when selecting stocks. In general, stocks with a small free float are rarely invested by institutional investors. This is because such stocks tend to be more volatile than stocks with a large float.

In addition, stocks with a small free float generally have a larger bid-ask spread and limited liquidity due to the limited availability of stocks in the market.

Real-life example: Tilray – a highly volatile stock

Tilray (TLRY) is a Nanaimo, Canada-based cannabis company that held its initial public offering (IPO) in 2018, becoming the first cannabis company to do so on the NASDAQ. Since its IPO price of $17, the stock is currently trading at just under $100 (as of January 2019).

In September 2018, Tilray’s stock price rose dramatically. More specifically, on September 19, the NASDAQ halted trading in the stock five times due to significant price fluctuations. Tilray’s stock soared 90% before falling to eventually end the day up 38%.

The underlying driver of Tilray’s stock price volatility on Sept. 19 was its low free float. Tilray’s IPO volume was 17.83 million shares and a resulting free float of 23% (which is small compared to its peers).

Due to the small number of shares publicly available, the bid-ask spread for Tilray was very high — as high as $2. Given the small number of shares available and high short interest in the stock, the stock endured a highly volatile session.

More resources

Thank you for reading the CFI Free Float Guide. To further advance your career, the following additional resources will be helpful:

What is free floating?

Definition of free-floating

1a : floating freely free-floating vegetation. b : lacking specific attachment, direction, or purpose free-floating ideas. 2 : felt as an emotion without apparent cause free-floating anxiety.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

“Pride”: The word that went from vice to strength

are you proud of pride

How do I get free float?

Free float is measured by subtracting the early finish (EF) of the activity from the early start (ES) of the successor activity. Free float represents the amount of time that a schedule activity can be delayed without delaying the early start date of any immediate successor activity within the network path.

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

If you enjoyed reading this post, be sure to check out all of our PMP Concepts Learning Series posts.

Each post in this series is designed to help those preparing for the PMP or CAPM certification exam and provides a comparison of common concepts found in the PMP and CAPM exams.

Total float vs. free float

Total float and free float refer to the time or planning flexibility associated with activities in the project plan. Float can occur when two or more activities are happening at the same time.

overall swimmer

The total buffer is measured as the difference between the early and late start dates (LS – ES) or the early and late finish dates (LF – EF). All float is shared between activities in a sequence. A sequence is defined as the activities between a point of path divergence and path convergence.

The total slack represents the amount of time an activity can be delayed without delaying the overall project duration, and is also known as the “float” or “slack”.

free float

Free float is measured by subtracting the early finish (EF) of activity from the early start (ES) of subsequent activity.

Free float represents the amount of time that a planned activity can be delayed without delaying the early start date of an immediate successor activity within the network path.

Free float is only calculated for the last transaction in a series of transactions.

example

If activity 1.4 has a duration of 6 days and takes place at the same time as activity 1.5, which has a duration of 9 days, activity 1.4 will have a total duration of 3 days. That means it can be delayed up to three days without impacting the project.

However, if Activity 1.4 is delayed by 5 days, it is now in a negative float situation: -2 days. This reflects the fact that the project will now take two days longer than expected.

summary

Total slack, also known as slack or slack, is the amount of time that an activity can be delayed without delaying the overall project duration. All float is shared between activities in a sequence.

Free float is the amount of time that an activity can be delayed without delaying the early start of an immediate successor activity.

Check out all the posts in our learning series on PMP concepts

Glass Bedding Synthetic Stock – Timney Trigger Ruger M77 Install

Glass Bedding Synthetic Stock – Timney Trigger Ruger M77 Install
Glass Bedding Synthetic Stock – Timney Trigger Ruger M77 Install


See some more details on the topic can you glass bed a synthetic stock here:

Glass bedding synthetic stocks? – Shooters Forum

Some of the fibreglass and kevler stocks are glass-bed friendly. Most of the cast plastic stocks such as Remington and other sell are not.

+ View Here

Source: www.shootersforum.com

Date Published: 11/3/2021

View: 5472

Glass bedding a synthetic stock – M14 Forum

IMHO, glass bedding is not required with a synthetic stock to increase accuracy. Conser the Halfmoa RRM ~ I have two of these modified stocks …

+ View Here

Source: www.m14forum.com

Date Published: 6/14/2022

View: 9792

Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles – Gun Digest

Block bedding is a very effective way to accurize the newer factory synthetic stocks that have internally structured compartments in the forend …

+ Read More

Source: gundigest.com

Date Published: 5/28/2021

View: 6781

Glass Bedding and voids in synthetic stock

I have done the research and no one makes an aftermarket stock for the ABIII yet. I would like to glass bed it myself, as i’m in CRNA school …

+ View More Here

Source: www.longrangehunting.com

Date Published: 10/7/2022

View: 9669

BEDDING SYNTHETIC STOCK – Shooters’ Forum

You’ll need to rough up the area you plan to bed so the bedding stuff will stick. Clean the roughed up bedding area with a good degreaser or …

+ View Here

Source: forum.accurateshooter.com

Date Published: 11/5/2022

View: 5506

Can you bed a synthetic stock? [Archive] – Outdoorsmen Forum

Yes you can bed a synthetic stock. However, there are some tricks suck as cleaning the stock with acetone, roughing up the contact surface, …

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Source: www.outdoorsmenforum.ca

Date Published: 10/7/2021

View: 1932

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

Block bedding is a very effective method of detailing the newer synthetic factory stocks that have internally structured compartments in the fore-end and around the action area.

In the case of block bedding, the recoil strap is essentially surrounded by a steel block.

You will bed the rifle at four points: recoil eyelet, back of tang, around the two guard screws.

A metal epoxy such as Devcon is used to make the bedding.

Modeling clay is used to control its flow in the mass.

If this doesn’t work for you, the block in front of the tab can be removed.

Then the entire barrel is floated free.

Block bedding A synthetic stock

So what is block bedding? Block bedding essentially surrounds the rifle’s recoil eyelet with a huge block of solid steel. This is achieved by filling in the structural chambers in front of and behind the recoil lug.

There are two chambers just in front of the lug that measure about .750 inches and two chambers behind the lug that measure about 1.25 inches, which becomes our 2 inch block of steel.

First, make sure the rifle is unloaded and remove the two stock screws and the breech. Take off the bottom plate together with the magazine box. Disconnect the stock from the rifle. Note that there are two material pads at the tip of the forearm.

Fire up your Dremel or Foredom tool and remove these two pads. They ensure that the barrel is pushed up when the stock is unscrewed and keep reverberation to a minimum when firing.

Legacy benchrest shooters tried this technique with wooden stocks in the 1960s with varying degrees of success, and it’s an inexpensive way for a mass-produced firearm to get a decent level of accuracy out of the box, but you can do better.

You will bed this rifle at four points – around the recoil lug, the back of the trunnion, and around the two protective screws under the rifle on the trigger guard.

First scrape off the stock material where the bedding material will go. This will ensure a large enough gap for the bedding material since you don’t want material to metal contact. Always leave a gap between the stock and the gun, this makes room for the epoxy.

The scraping also roughens the material so that the epoxy sticks to it. You’ll have to use sandpaper to really rough it up. I use #120 grit and if I had access to a bead blasting booth I would mask off the material and bead blast the epoxy areas to further roughen it up. After scraping and sanding, spray with brake cleaner and blow dry.

The next step is to glue the barrel. You want the barrel to be free floating, but you need to stretch the bedding material about ¾ of an inch in front of the recoil nose instead of completely free floating the barrel like you would with the spot betting technique.

Tape the front of the barrel at the forearm tip and wrap tape around the barrel ¾ inch forward of the recoil nose. Look down the muzzle of the rifle to make sure the barrel is square and you haven’t used too much tape causing it to sit too high.

Everything should be leveled and centered at this point. Next, get out the modeling clay and fill in the barrel channel chambers in front of the two chambers you are using, which are in front of the recoil nose. That is, from front to back, epoxy goes into the two chambers in front of the cleat, then into the cleat chamber, and into two chambers behind the cleat. See the photo if this is not entirely clear.

You want to fill the two chambers in front of and behind the recoil tab, but don’t waste expensive epoxy flowing it into chambers where it’s not needed. Next, spray release agent on the areas of the barrel, stockmaker screws, and baseplate. Remove the magazine follower and spring from the bottom plate as they just get in the way.

Once you’ve taped everything, greased with release agent, and applied modeling compound to areas you don’t want the epoxy to flow, mix Devcon at a 2.5 to 1 ratio.

Apply it to the four points inside the stock, starting with the chambers in and around the recoil lug. There is a special technique that must be used to fill deep areas like this with an epoxy that is a thick consistency like Devcon.

Use a popsicle stick to pour a thick dollop of epoxy into the chamber, stir with a butter churn action to get the bubbles out; Otherwise, large voids and bubbles will form, negating the beneficial effects of a large block of steel around the recoil lug, which is the sole reason for this work.

You’ll know you’re getting the air bubbles out by the popping noises.

Once you have all the epoxy in place, screw the rifle together, being careful not to screw it together too tight, just enough to hold it in place. Place the rifle in a cradle to allow the epoxy to settle, do not place the stock or barrel in a vise during the curing process. You want the stock to sit as stress-free as possible. Wipe off the excess epoxy and let the rifle sit overnight.

The next day you disassemble it and look at it. It should look like the photos. Use the Dremel or Foredom tools with the textured toothed carbide bit to sand away the excess steel epoxy where it has spilled and degrease the entire gun.

Put everything back together and do a good functional test, make sure all safety devices are working and that the rifle is loading dummy ammo. Torque front and rear guard bolts to 65 in.-lbs. and mount the scope.

This completes the block bedding of a bolt action rifle in a nutshell. It’s a basic but very good technique to improve accuracy, especially on heavy-barreled rifles or rifles that generate quite a bit of recoil and use a compartmented synthetic stock in the fore-end.

Note that in this project you placed a bedding block in front of the recoil lug and also bedding the barrel about ¾ inch in front of the lug. Free-floating the entire run is another option, but which technique is correct or most effective? It depends who you ask. I have used both methods and have had good results with both.

In most cases, putting a small amount of bedding on the barrel before the recoil approach will give more consistent results, especially on very heavy varmint barrels.

I believe this is due to the fact that supporting this section of the barrel tends to positively dampen the harmonics. Remember, when the rifle is fired and the bullet flies down the barrel, the barrel acts like a whip, but also spins in circles as it snaps like a whip. I think this block reduces that whiplash effect, making it more consistent and better controlling the barrel overtones.

Why did you remove the pads at the front of the fore-end on this stock? Wouldn’t that have the same positive effect? The short answer is no. Applying upward pressure to the fore-end applies uneven pressure and causes a very uneven rebound or thump effect outward from the stock and fore-end to the end of the barrel.

It’s a good way to get decent accuracy from a stock rifle, but you’re aiming for more than just decent accuracy, especially with a caliber like the .22-250 that might turn the tide – one that’s for small targets long-distance is intended.

For this reason I leave the barrel free floating except for the first ¾ inch or sometimes an inch and a half behind the front of the recoil lug with a really heavy barrel.

Some kegs may not respond to this technique. If the rifle doesn’t fire and you’ve exhausted all other avenues, you can always easily remove the block before the lug and levitate the entire barrel to see if that improves accuracy.

Keep in mind that none of these techniques involve column bedding. These are techniques you, as a budding home gunsmith, can use to get your “feet wet” in the art of custom gunsmithing.

This article is an excerpt from Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms.

How to Paint Synthetic Rifle Stocks

Synthetic stocks are very popular in modern rifles due to their durability and affordability. Unfortunately, they are not as attractive as traditional wooden stocks. However, you can easily customize your rifle stock by painting it to your liking. Epoxy-based primers and paints work particularly well on plastic materials. Before preparing your rifle for painting, make sure your rifle is unloaded. Also, remember to wear eye protection and a respirator when painting your rifle stock.

Step 1

Disconnect the plastic stock from the rifle. As the process may vary slightly by manufacturer, refer to your owner’s manual for disassembly instructions. If possible, remove the recoil pad.

step 2

Use 180 grit sandpaper and hand sand the material surface. Many synthetic materials have parting lines that run the length of the shaft, sand them down until they are flush with the surface. Do not use a mechanical grinder when preparing your material as you can easily damage your material.

step 3

Apply masking tape to the inner bedding of the stock and over the butt plate (if fitted). Use a razor blade to carefully trim the tape to conform to the exposed surface of the material.

step 4

Spray an even, thin coat of epoxy-based primer onto the material and allow the primer to dry. Repeat the process until you have applied three coats. Leave to dry for 24 hours.

step 5

Remove and replace the masking tape across the inside of the stock and recoil pad.

step 6

Spray the stock with an even coat of epoxy based paint. Let dry and apply a second coat. Leave to dry for another 24 hours.

step 7

Spray the shaft evenly with car clear coat. Leave the broth to dry for a few days.

step 8

How-To: Block Bedding Synthetic-Stock Rifles

Block bedding is a very effective method of detailing the newer synthetic factory stocks that have internally structured compartments in the fore-end and around the action area.

In the case of block bedding, the recoil strap is essentially surrounded by a steel block.

You will bed the rifle at four points: recoil eyelet, back of tang, around the two guard screws.

A metal epoxy such as Devcon is used to make the bedding.

Modeling clay is used to control its flow in the mass.

If this doesn’t work for you, the block in front of the tab can be removed.

Then the entire barrel is floated free.

Block bedding A synthetic stock

So what is block bedding? Block bedding essentially surrounds the rifle’s recoil eyelet with a huge block of solid steel. This is achieved by filling in the structural chambers in front of and behind the recoil lug.

There are two chambers just in front of the lug that measure about .750 inches and two chambers behind the lug that measure about 1.25 inches, which becomes our 2 inch block of steel.

First, make sure the rifle is unloaded and remove the two stock screws and the breech. Take off the bottom plate together with the magazine box. Disconnect the stock from the rifle. Note that there are two material pads at the tip of the forearm.

Fire up your Dremel or Foredom tool and remove these two pads. They ensure that the barrel is pushed up when the stock is unscrewed and keep reverberation to a minimum when firing.

Legacy benchrest shooters tried this technique with wooden stocks in the 1960s with varying degrees of success, and it’s an inexpensive way for a mass-produced firearm to get a decent level of accuracy out of the box, but you can do better.

You will bed this rifle at four points – around the recoil lug, the back of the trunnion, and around the two protective screws under the rifle on the trigger guard.

First scrape off the stock material where the bedding material will go. This will ensure a large enough gap for the bedding material since you don’t want material to metal contact. Always leave a gap between the stock and the gun, this makes room for the epoxy.

The scraping also roughens the material so that the epoxy sticks to it. You’ll have to use sandpaper to really rough it up. I use #120 grit and if I had access to a bead blasting booth I would mask off the material and bead blast the epoxy areas to further roughen it up. After scraping and sanding, spray with brake cleaner and blow dry.

The next step is to glue the barrel. You want the barrel to be free floating, but you need to stretch the bedding material about ¾ of an inch in front of the recoil nose instead of completely free floating the barrel like you would with the spot betting technique.

Tape the front of the barrel at the forearm tip and wrap tape around the barrel ¾ inch forward of the recoil nose. Look down the muzzle of the rifle to make sure the barrel is square and you haven’t used too much tape causing it to sit too high.

Everything should be leveled and centered at this point. Next, get out the modeling clay and fill in the barrel channel chambers in front of the two chambers you are using, which are in front of the recoil nose. That is, from front to back, epoxy goes into the two chambers in front of the cleat, then into the cleat chamber, and into two chambers behind the cleat. See the photo if this is not entirely clear.

You want to fill the two chambers in front of and behind the recoil tab, but don’t waste expensive epoxy flowing it into chambers where it’s not needed. Next, spray release agent on the areas of the barrel, stockmaker screws, and baseplate. Remove the magazine follower and spring from the bottom plate as they just get in the way.

Once you’ve taped everything, greased with release agent, and applied modeling compound to areas you don’t want the epoxy to flow, mix Devcon at a 2.5 to 1 ratio.

Apply it to the four points inside the stock, starting with the chambers in and around the recoil lug. There is a special technique that must be used to fill deep areas like this with an epoxy that is a thick consistency like Devcon.

Use a popsicle stick to pour a thick dollop of epoxy into the chamber, stir with a butter churn action to get the bubbles out; Otherwise, large voids and bubbles will form, negating the beneficial effects of a large block of steel around the recoil lug, which is the sole reason for this work.

You’ll know you’re getting the air bubbles out by the popping noises.

Once you have all the epoxy in place, screw the rifle together, being careful not to screw it together too tight, just enough to hold it in place. Place the rifle in a cradle to allow the epoxy to settle, do not place the stock or barrel in a vise during the curing process. You want the stock to sit as stress-free as possible. Wipe off the excess epoxy and let the rifle sit overnight.

The next day you disassemble it and look at it. It should look like the photos. Use the Dremel or Foredom tools with the textured toothed carbide bit to sand away the excess steel epoxy where it has spilled and degrease the entire gun.

Put everything back together and do a good functional test, make sure all safety devices are working and that the rifle is loading dummy ammo. Torque front and rear guard bolts to 65 in.-lbs. and mount the scope.

This completes the block bedding of a bolt action rifle in a nutshell. It’s a basic but very good technique to improve accuracy, especially on heavy-barreled rifles or rifles that generate quite a bit of recoil and use a compartmented synthetic stock in the fore-end.

Note that in this project you placed a bedding block in front of the recoil lug and also bedding the barrel about ¾ inch in front of the lug. Free-floating the entire run is another option, but which technique is correct or most effective? It depends who you ask. I have used both methods and have had good results with both.

In most cases, putting a small amount of bedding on the barrel before the recoil approach will give more consistent results, especially on very heavy varmint barrels.

I believe this is due to the fact that supporting this section of the barrel tends to positively dampen the harmonics. Remember, when the rifle is fired and the bullet flies down the barrel, the barrel acts like a whip, but also spins in circles as it snaps like a whip. I think this block reduces that whiplash effect, making it more consistent and better controlling the barrel overtones.

Why did you remove the pads at the front of the fore-end on this stock? Wouldn’t that have the same positive effect? The short answer is no. Applying upward pressure to the fore-end applies uneven pressure and causes a very uneven rebound or thump effect outward from the stock and fore-end to the end of the barrel.

It’s a good way to get decent accuracy from a stock rifle, but you’re aiming for more than just decent accuracy, especially with a caliber like the .22-250 that might turn the tide – one that’s for small targets long-distance is intended.

For this reason I leave the barrel free floating except for the first ¾ inch or sometimes an inch and a half behind the front of the recoil lug with a really heavy barrel.

Some kegs may not respond to this technique. If the rifle doesn’t fire and you’ve exhausted all other avenues, you can always easily remove the block before the lug and levitate the entire barrel to see if that improves accuracy.

Keep in mind that none of these techniques involve column bedding. These are techniques you, as a budding home gunsmith, can use to get your “feet wet” in the art of custom gunsmithing.

This article is an excerpt from Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms.

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