Can You Saddle A Wet Horse? 122 Most Correct Answers

Fact check Friday: “Not a wet horse”

A viral Facebook meme warns horse owners not to bring a wet horse out after a bath or the sun will overheat the water. We’re digging a little to bring you the full story.

Happy #FactCheckFriday! In this column we will attempt to uncover the truth behind the viral social posts that are sweeping the horse world. Remember, kids, a healthy skepticism about what you read on the internet will get you far in life.

Today’s post is this viral meme that was shared a few thousand times this week as a heatwave increased almost nationwide:

Right or wrong? Answer: mostly true, but under certain circumstances. Let’s take a closer look.

The problem with memes or viral photos on social media is that there is often not enough space to really explain all the circumstances and as we all know in the horse world there are very few hard and fast rules.

The original South Coast Sport & Performance Horses post has been edited a few times to reflect the specific scenario in which this “quick tip” is correct, but most of the viral shares have come from the image itself, and many of us are guilty of not that reading long text in a caption when we think we’ve got the gist of the text in a photograph.

Let’s break down the facts in this meme:

Never put a wet horse out to pasture: when you hose down a hot horse after exercise, the water actually acts as an insulator, trapping heat in the horse’s body. In order to properly and safely cool down a horse, it should be scraped as soon as possible after hosing down, and if the horse is still hot to the touch the whole process should be repeated as often as necessary to bring its temperature down to normal. A horse should never be hosed down and simply drained.

: When you hose down a hot horse after exercise, the water actually acts as an insulator, trapping heat in the horse’s body. In order to properly and safely cool down a horse, it should be scraped as soon as possible after hosing down, and if the horse is still hot to the touch the whole process should be repeated as often as necessary to bring its temperature down to normal. A horse should never be hosed down and simply drained. The sun can heat the water on your horse’s body and overheat it: As above, a thin layer of water left on your hot horse after exercise, especially in a humid climate where it may not dry quickly, acts as an insulator and the horse’s body heat can be trapped. Combine that with hot, direct sunlight and you have a recipe for overheating.

: As above, a thin layer of water left on your hot horse after exercise, particularly in a humid climate where it may not dry quickly, acts as an insulator and can trap the horse’s body heat. Combine that with hot, direct sunlight and you have a recipe for overheating. Always scrape your horse and let it dry in the shade: As above, it’s the scraping that allows the horse to actually cool down. Walk in the shade with your hand or stand in a shaded, ventilated area, if its breathing rate and pulse have slowed, it can quickly dry and cool before turning it back into the sun, especially in humid areas where he may not do this, otherwise he will dry off quickly. Even in high humidity, scraping does a lot to speed up the process.

But what if…

…your horse is out in a rain shower and gets wet and then the sun comes out? Your horse will most likely be fine – again, this “quick tip” is for post-workout horse care where a horse’s temperature is elevated and warm to the touch. A horse with a normal body temperature has a lower risk of overheating when it gets wet.

…you have a fog system? A mist system makes a horse slightly damp, not soaked to the skin like a post-riding hose down. The evaporation of the mist on the horse’s skin keeps it cool.

… you live somewhere where it is dry and your horse dries out quickly? By the time you’ve hosed and scraped your horse he’ll be cool to the touch and you’re already seeing dry patches on his coat because your climate is so dry you can probably throw him out. My particular corner of Horse Nation falls into this category depending on the daily conditions – usually when I’m done hosing, scratching, putting my tack on, and putting my horse’s bell boots and fly mask on, I take him outside in the pasture it dries up by itself, even when it’s sunny.

Bottom Line: Yes, this meme is accurate — in certain scenarios. In hot, humid conditions, simply take time to cool your horse down after exercise, make sure you hose AND scratch as much as you need to, and give the horse some time to dry off in the shade before returning back out into the direct sun.

Stay safe and cool out there Horse Nation – and go horseback riding!

It’s hard to find an equestrian facility without a bit of mud, and in spring most paddocks have plenty of it. Mud isn’t just a nuisance; it also poses a risk to your horse’s health. When it comes to equine health, sludge prevention and control must be a priority in your facility.

Why mud is important to horse health

Mud not only makes it difficult for horses to move properly, it can also lead to slips and falls. Mud also affects a horse’s balance, and prolonged standing in mud can cause joint pain. If your horse stands in deep mud or falls through the mud, tendons or ligaments may become overstretched or even torn.

Mud also has a negative impact on the health of your horse’s hooves, causing problems such as thrush and sensitive hooves. Your horse can lose hooves in deep, sticky mud, and the soft ground can even cause abnormal hoof growth. If mud soaks your horse’s hooves too much, they can be prone to hoof bruises and abscesses.

Finally, mud can cause skin problems like scratches that are uncomfortable for your horse and often require intensive treatment to fix.

With harsh winters or heavy spring rains, you probably can’t completely prevent mud buildup on your pastures. However, there are a few things you can implement to minimize the threat to horses.

Remove manure immediately

Manure cleaning is particularly important to prevent mud on smaller pastures. Leaving it lying around will only add to your sludge problem. Add paddock cleaning to your daily to-do list to keep it manageable.

Also, try to keep the hay off the ground so it doesn’t get thrown into the ground. As hay molds and rots, it can make mud worse. Feed hay in hay bags or on rubber mats to reduce the amount that ends up in the ground.

install drainage

If certain areas of your points are plagued by mud, installing drainage may be an option. French drains can be particularly helpful. These drains are ditches containing a perforated pipe. The ditch is filled with gravel which allows water to flow into the pipe that diverts water away from your junction. French drains are labor intensive to install, but they can make a significant difference by preventing water from flowing into a lower area of ​​your diverter.

There are also many options to help you improve drainage in your paddock. You can buy a range of landscape trellis such as: B. Lighthoof trellis that help promote drainage right in your paddock. These grates can be expensive, so most horse owners only use them in the muddiest areas of their paddocks – such as around gates and in front of retracted shelters.

Implement sacrificial paddocks and rotational grazing

Using a sacrificial paddock can help relieve traffic on your main pastures to allow them to recover after heavy rains. Sacrificial paddocks can also help prevent horses from overgrazing your pastures, further reducing your mud problem. Set up a smaller sacrifice paddock if possible and see the difference it makes to your main grazing ground.

While you may not be able to completely solve the mud problem, taking proactive measures to keep it under control will help ensure your horse’s health stays on solid ground.

Should you cover your horse?

The long winter coat of hair acts as insulation by reducing the loss of body heat and is the first line of defense against the cold. Its insulating effect is lost when the horse gets wet and/or covered in mud. Therefore, ensure a dry sheltered area in cold, wet weather. How do you know if you should blanket your horse?

Covering a horse is necessary to reduce the effects of cold and inclement weather

During election periods no shelter is available and temperatures fall below 5 degrees Fahrenheit or wind chills are below 5 degrees Fahrenheit.

There is a possibility that the horse will get wet (usually not a problem in snow, but much more of a problem in rain, ice and/or sleet).

The horse’s winter coat was shaved to show it off.

The horse is very young or very old.

The horse has not been acclimated to the cold (e.g. recently relocated from a southern climate).

The horse has a body condition score of 3 or less or is in poor health.

fit ceiling

It is important that the rug fits the horse, make sure you get the right size for the horse.

Horses can develop chafing or sores where the straps that hold the rug in place are not properly seated. If the horse is constantly covered, the blanket should be periodically removed to inspect for damage and repositioned for twisting.

Make sure rugs are kept dry and do not put a rug on a wet horse; Wait for the horse to dry before tucking it in. Or take a wet blanket off a horse to keep it from getting cold.

On warm days, remove the rug to keep the horse from sweating and getting wet under the rug. Air the blanket and dry the horse’s coat.

The horse’s coat acts as insulation by trapping air. However, when hair is wet or covered in mud, air is excluded, reducing its insulating value and increasing heat loss. As little as 0.1 inch of rain can cause cold stress by damaging hair and reducing its insulating value. It is important to keep the horse dry and protected from the rain. Woolly horses with a thicker coat can retain more heat, so sometimes it’s better not to use a blanket.

Reference: Marcia Hathaway, October 2012, Univ. of Minn. Horse Newsletter, Volume 8, Issue 10, p. 1.

BY GRACE SALMON

Whether we’re targeting the show ring or home lessons, most riders have one common goal: to make their horses look good. Often we’re so focused on what we can do to improve our grooming routine, including a wide range of grooming tools, but have you ever thought about what not to do to keep your horses happy, healthy and beautiful? Ditch those grooming habits you need to break to keep your horses looking their best.

1. Do not allow care items to dry thoroughly.

Leaving brushes and towels wet or damp allows bacteria to multiply. Bacteria can potentially cause all sorts of problems like fungi and dry skin for your horse. Allowing brushes and towels to dry completely reduces the chance of transferring bacteria to your horse’s coat.

2. Don’t pluck hooves – not even on days off.

If mud, manure and wet shaving are left in the hooves for too long, bacteria will creep in and cause thrush. It’s important to clean your horse’s hooves, even on days they’re not being ridden, to avoid the risk of spreading thrush.

3. Sharing grooming tools and products.

Although we often succumb to the convenience of community grooming remedies, remember that this is one of the easiest ways to spread fungus among horses. While it’s okay to share things like detanglers, consider keeping a separate set of brushes just for your horse to keep bacteria at bay.

4. Bathing your horse too often.

Bathing your horse for too long will remove the natural oils in his coat, preventing the coat from shining. Too many baths even rob it of its natural ability to protect itself from things like bugs, bacteria, and fungus.

5. Not getting rid of sweat stains.

Getting rid of sweat stains is crucial to maintaining a healthy and beautiful coat. Leftover sweat can cause fungal growth or leave skin dry and itchy. If you’re in a pinch, rubbing alcohol and a good curry will suffice.

6. Do not wash out all the soapy water.

When soapy water dries on a horse’s coat, mane or tail, the coat can become dry and itchy – which can lead to chafing! This can potentially lead to bald patches and broken hair, which often does not grow back easily.

7. Brushing tails too often

Brushing your horse’s tail every day can cause breakage and potentially irreversible damage. Instead, remove any shavings, throw in a good amount of detangler, and run your fingers through the tail to get rid of any large knots or tangles. Consider taking a brush to the tail just for shows or clinics.

8. Relying only on external measures.

No matter how well you take care of your horse, if he doesn’t get the right nutrients in his body, he will never look his best. By making sure they are getting the best food and the necessary supplements, you will have a good foundation on which to build your grooming routine.

9. Only work hard when there’s a show coming up.

A well-groomed horse cuts a fine figure all year round – not just at tournaments. Consistency is key to keeping them looking beautiful and healthy. It’s also important to have a thorough grooming routine to know your horse as well as possible. If something is wrong, you can pick it up immediately.

10. Not bringing in the extra elbow fat

At the end of the day, a comprehensive and thorough grooming routine will set you up for success. It is necessary to invest time and care in our horses so that they can do their best while they do their best for us. Doing the hard work and seeing the results is so rewarding and your horse will thank you!

If you follow this advice on what not to do when grooming your horse, we hope you can easily apply it to your daily grooming routine and see the difference!

health and well-being

Blankets can be a hot topic among horse owners and grooms. Some people are adamant when it comes to blankets, and others are just the opposite: they are adamant about not blanketing their horses in winter.

So the question remains, do horses need to be covered in cold weather?

Thermoneutral zone

The thermoneutral zone (TNZ) describes an ambient temperature range in which a normal healthy adult (in humans, naked, standing upright, in still air) can maintain a normal body temperature without having to expend energy above the normal basal metabolic rate. For humans, the thermoneutral zone is between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Because different people have different metabolic rates, some people’s TNZ is lower than others, and with light clothing, the TNZ decreases, and the comfortable temperature in a temperature-controlled building can be 65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. The TNZ of horses is significantly lower than that of humans, ranging from 41 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

Two other important temperature calculations are the lower critical temperature (LCT) and the upper critical temperature (UCT). LCT is defined as the lowest temperature in the TNZ and is the temperature below which the horse must increase metabolic rate to generate heat to maintain normal core temperature (see below), while UCT is defined as the temperature at which horses work need to lower their core temperature (by dilating blood vessels in the skin, sweating and increasing breathing rate).

Warm-blooded animals can maintain a higher body temperature than their environment by regulating their metabolic processes. Metabolism, the process that keeps all bodily functions functioning properly and which includes digestion, respiration, circulation and all the chemical reactions used by cells to break down and utilize nutrients, creates body heat. For example, muscle contraction is a type of metabolic process that generates heat. This is why humans get hot and sweaty when they move (and horses too, while other animals like cattle, dogs and birds pant instead of sweating) – because that extra heat generated by the muscle contractions and increased blood flow needs to be dissipated to keep the internal body temperature in the stable range.

Conversely, in cold weather, the body must ensure that it can minimize heat loss in order to maintain its core temperature. In general, horses have well-developed insulation to retain body heat, which includes their coat (coat), subcutaneous fat, and relatively large muscles and digestive system. When this insulation is insufficient to maintain body temperature, they can resort to various mechanisms to generate more heat or reduce heat loss, such as:

Tremors: Rapid muscle contractions that stimulate metabolism to produce more heat. This is a moderate mechanism that can be sustained over long periods of time.

Digestion: A horse generates body heat by digesting the food it eats. As the horse digests its feed, intestinal activity generates heat and helps warm the body from the inside. Therefore, it is important to offer horses good quality hay in larger quantities during cold weather.

Piloerection (like goosebumps in humans): Characterized by the raising and raising of body hair, increasing the insulating effect of the coat by allowing more air into the space between the hairs. However, horses in the rain or wet snow lose their piloerectile ability, allowing water to reach the skin and cool the body.

Vasoconstriction: reduction in the diameter of the blood vessels of the limbs and other extremities (snout, ears), thereby limiting heat loss.

Reduction in Breathing Rate: By breathing less frequently, the horse reduces heat loss through the exhaled air.

While humans have a higher TNZ and become cold and potentially hypothermic when the environment drops below the LCT and therefore need to add layers of clothing to maintain core temperature, horses are better adapted to cooler temperatures and do not need to “push” their metabolism up, to keep warm until the ambient temperature drops below 41 degrees Fahrenheit.

So how can you tell if your horse needs a blanket to keep him warm this winter?

races and types

Some breeds or morphological types are more suited to hot or cold climates. For example horses that are heavier, thicker boned, compact limbs, long haired (feathers on pasterns), thick skin (prevents heat loss through blood circulation) and subcutaneous fat (like draft horses, some warmblood breeds, some ponies). , and other horses with this phenotype) are better adapted to cold weather. Conversely, horses with lighter bones, longer limbs, leaner muscles, thinner skin, silky coat and clearly visible blood vessels under the skin (light breeds, Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds, Arabians, etc.) adapt more easily to warmer climates and can also become colder more easily.

To cover or not to cover, that is the question

Blankets can be very important and life-saving for some horses. In areas with long winters, temperatures are below freezing or just above freezing for prolonged periods in rainy, skinny, immunocompromised, geriatric horses, those who do not grow a thick coat, or who live 24-hour outdoors without access to shelter should be covered, period. Conversely, healthy horses with a decent Body Condition Score (http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/asc/asc188/asc188.pdf) that have become accustomed to the geographic area have access to a shelter, have grown a thick winter coat, have plenty of food to eat, and don’t necessarily need to be covered up. Clipped horses should be covered up in cooler weather, even when stabled.

It is important to treat each horse individually and to care for each horse individually when covering. Horses that are cold will usually crouch or be reluctant to move out of a sheltered space when outside, or reluctant to leave their stalls when inside.

Covering up has to be dynamic, and temperature isn’t the only factor to consider when deciding whether to cover up or not. It is unacceptable to put on a blanket in December and take it off in April. Blanking is a daily commitment and requires planning. For example, if it’s 20 degrees Fahrenheit but sunny and not windy on one of those fine winter days, the horse may not need to be covered. On the other hand, if it is 45 degrees Fahrenheit and raining and the horses are not being dried out and are out all night when temperatures can drop below freezing, these horses may need to be covered up.

Some of the arguments we come across from die-hards are listed below, along with our counter-arguments:

Argument: Horses in the wild feel comfortable without a blanket in wintry weather.

Counter-argument: Horses that cannot tolerate the cold will not survive.

Argument: You take away from the horse what Mother Nature gave: The ability to keep warm with a long coat.

Counterargument: Grazing horses with access to a shelter to protect them from wind and rain may not need Schar blankets to keep them comfortable, but it’s okay if horses don’t have a way to block out the wind and rain to get around to have some kind of protection against the worst winter weather. Do most domestic horses survive the winter without a blanket? They sure do, but they can lose weight in the process, and it can take a long time to regain weight in the spring to stay at an acceptable BCS.

Argument: It’s raining and I don’t have time to wait for my horse to dry, so I won’t tuck him in.

Counterargument: Although ideally you would let the horse dry before putting on a blanket, it is more important that the blanket is on when temperatures drop after a rain. It’s okay to put a blanket on a wet horse. The rug wicks moisture away from the horse and excess moisture evaporates. You can check the horse later and find that it is dry under the blanket. Sheeting up a wet horse increases the chances of developing blight, but it’s better to deal with [potential] blight later than a colicked horse that’s gotten too cold.

Argument: Putting a blanket on a horse with a thick coat of hair weighs down the hair, eliminating its ability to fluff up and trap air between the hairs, making it colder.

Counterargument: There is no scientific research to suggest that rugs that straighten the coat actually make horses colder.

Argument: My horse doesn’t like blankets.

Counterargument: Yes, there are horses that do not do well with blankets, but most horses do well. In a study conducted in Norway, researchers trained horses to mediate decisions by pointing to symbols. The horses were then exposed to different weather conditions; The horses indicated their choice to put on a blanket in wet, windy, and cold weather. For horses that destroy their rugs, there are manufacturers that offer warranties ranging from three years to a lifetime.

What kind of ceiling and when

If your horse has a nice, dense coat of hair, has access to a shelter, or lives in an area where the weather is mild, he most likely does not need a rug. However, if you need to stock your horse based on the above information, you don’t need to buy every weight. Blankets are labeled by weight and indicate how much filling/insulation they need to keep the horse warm. The higher the filling, the heavier the blanket and the colder it is designed to be. Sheets generally have no filling, midweight duvets typically offer between 150 and 225 grams of filling; and heavy blankets are usually between 250 and 400 grams of filling.

Blankets are also further subdivided into “outlet” and “stable” rugs, “outlet” means waterproof and more resilient material/fabric and sturdy means non-waterproof, and many types of “silky” materials.

As a general guide, a waterproof blanket (no padding) will offer protection from wind and rain, but don’t add too much warmth if the weather is below the mid-30s. A medium or heavy blanket may do more to keep the horse warm when temperatures drop below freezing and into the single digits. If you only have a choice of blankets, invest in a medium-weight blanket, as this can be used from the mid-40s (and when it rains) into the teens. And although the term ‘run’ indicates that the rug should be used outside, it can also be used inside the stable, unlike stable rugs which can only be used indoors due to the lack of waterproof and possibly weaker material.

Covering requires diligence in monitoring the weather and a commitment to changing covers to ensure your horse is comfortable in his clothes every day. With a little common sense, you can keep your horse healthy and happy. If he’s shaking, add some weather protection. If you put your hand under his blanket and he’s hot, go for a lighter weight.

Proper fit is of the utmost importance

A properly fitting rug should not cause chafing or sores on the horse. A well-fitting rug does not constrict around the neck and prevent the horse from resting his head or fully using his shoulder. Also, no pressure should be exerted on his withers. There are many different cuts and styles of rugs, and some manufacturers even make rugs for different body types: for example, high wilted, narrow-chested Thoroughbreds and low wilted, broader-chested Quarterhorses. There are blankets that are longer, reaching below the elbow almost to the knee, and some that reach just below the elbow. Some rugs have a tail flap (usually soft), others don’t (usually saddlebred breed specific or stable rugs).

How to measure for a blanket that fits

A rug that doesn’t fit well can be more than uncomfortable for your horse – it can be dangerous if it’s big enough to catch a hoof when lying down. Although manufacturers may use different sizes, the way a horse is measured remains the same. To ensure you get the most accurate measurement, you will need a helper and a cloth tape measure (Figure 1).

Stand your horse upright on a level surface.

Have your friend sit at the horse’s head and hold the cloth measuring tape in the middle of his chest.

Wrap the tape around one side of his body and wrap it around the widest part of his hips.

Note the measurement of where you expect its ceiling to end.

If the measurement falls between blanket sizes, it is best to choose the smaller size.

Conclusion

Cover your horse if it is geriatric, thin, clipped, or immunocompromised. Watch the weather carefully to determine if the blanket you wear over him is appropriate for the conditions he will face. Always adjust the waist straps so that they fit snugly against the horse’s body; dangling straps are a hazard to the legs as they can get caught when the horse lies down and stands up. That can be catastrophic. Check your horse’s rug after the rain to make sure it’s still waterproof; A soaked horse will be even more uncomfortable when burdened with a sodden, sodden blanket. Remember to check under the blanket regularly to assess the horse’s skin health and body condition.

For more informations

Kentucky 4-H Program and Saddle Up Safely Present: Safe Blanketing, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIe6c4vvq7s

references

Morgan, K. Thermoneutral Zone and Critical Temperatures of Horses. Journal of Thermal Biology. 23(1):59-61, 1998.

Mejdell, CM., Buvik, T., Jørgensen, G.H.M., Bøe, K.E. Horses can learn to use symbols to communicate their preferences. Applied Animal Behavior Science. 184:66-73, 2016.

Authors: Fernanda Camargo, Animal and Food Sciences, Sarah Coleman, New Vocations Racehorse Adoption Program

Printable PDF version

Find out about some of the problems that mud can cause for your horse or pony and what you can do to avoid them.

If it rains where you live, chances are you’ve experienced muddy conditions in your barn. Obviously squeezing through deep mud in your muck boots isn’t fun, but did you know that mud can cause problems for your favorite horse? Let’s take a look at mud and how it affects the horses in your stable.

mud fever

Mauke is a painful skin infection caused by a nasty microorganism that thrives on damp horse fur. This organism causes scabs and hair loss. Mauke is very common in horses that spend a lot of time outdoors in wet or muddy conditions. It usually shows up in the pastern and heel area of ​​a horse.

If your horse develops mallenders, you must do your best to keep his legs dry for a while to allow them to heal. Hose off the mud and treat the area with an iodine-based antibacterial shampoo or scrub. Then dry the area with a clean towel. Most importantly, your horse will need to spend some time in a stall or in a dry stall for the wounds to heal.

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Bad driving surface

Driving in deep sticky mud is not a good idea and you should try to avoid it. Deep mud can twist sensitive horses legs and potentially damage leg tendons and ligaments. Rain can turn even the best arena into a muddy swamp. If your stable arena gets very deep and sticky when it rains, give your horse a day off. If you must ride, stick to slower speeds so you don’t strain your horse’s legs.

A horse is more likely to throw up (hits its front heel with its hind hoof) when being ridden in mud, so put rubber boots on it if you really need to ride it in bad conditions. Overreach or hoof bells also help to put his shoes on.

Eventing riders, people who jump their horses over terrain fences, often use cleats (seals) on muddy days. These are small pointed pieces of metal that are screwed into specially drilled holes in a horseshoe. They help the horse’s hooves grip the ground so it stays balanced when jumping and doesn’t slide around on the mud as much. Screwing in cleats takes practice, so don’t try them at a show for the first time.

Dragged shoes

Deep, sticky mud can rip horseshoes off, even when tightened properly. The mud just seems to suck off the shoes. If your area gets really muddy in winter, you should take off your horseshoes for the winter. Unless you ride him and he has pretty good feet, you probably don’t need them.

If you wish to keep the shoes on, ask your farrier to fit toe clips. Toe clips are two triangular shaped clips that help hold shoes in place.

If you notice your horse has lost a hoof, it’s a good idea to go to the pasture to look for it. You don’t want your horse or one of his grazing friends to step on it and have a nail pierce his hoof. You can also save some money as your farrier will likely be able to use the same shoe instead of fitting him a new shoe (which will cost you extra money).

Care for muddy legs

If you have ridden in muddy conditions it is important that you hose down your horse’s legs and dry them with a clean towel.

If it’s really cold and you don’t want to hose him down, put him in a box for a while until the mud on his legs dries and you can brush him off with a dandy brush.

Always pick your horse’s hooves after riding in the mud. Sharp stones can get stuck in muddy hooves and stones can cause rockfalls and abscesses.

Muddy fields and pens

There’s probably not much you can do about the mud in your barn’s fields, that’s the owner’s responsibility. But if your horse lives in a small stall, consider scooping out any wet patches and replacing them with dry bedding. There are many absorbent bedding products. Look for it at your local feed or supply store.

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2004 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to login!

For domestic horses, the answer is yes, no, and maybe!

While it is true that wild and free-roaming horses survive without a rug, they are more active than their domestic counterparts, find their own shelter from inclement weather, and typically do not live as long as domestic horses.

All horses should have access to shelter and where they have good shelter healthy younger horses may not always be robust. However, every horse is different so treat each horse individually, with some more in need of extra warmth and protection than others. Older horses in particular need extra warmth in cold and wet weather. Horses are very efficient at controlling their core body temperature, and in winter they are effectively acclimating to cooler temperatures. Unlike humans, normal digestion generates a large amount of heat in the horse’s rectum and therefore owners can feel cold when their horses are not. Many people feel their horse’s skin to gauge if it is warm, but this is not accurate and can lead to masking, which can have a negative impact on the horse’s health.

However, some horse breeds have very fine skin and coat (e.g. Thoroughbreds and Standardbreds). This means they feel the wet and cold more than hardier, hardier horse breeds. However, there are always exceptions, so treat each horse individually. Care should be taken when covering horses after exercise as immediate covering decreases the horse’s ability to dissipate heat, traps sweat and can increase the risk of blanket sores and fungal or bacterial infections on the skin [1].

Blankets should not be used as a substitute for shade and shelter (see article Do I need to provide shade and shelter for my horse?). Horses should have the freedom to cope with changing weather conditions. This includes freedom of movement, protection from sun, rain and wind, dry bedding and sufficient access to food [2].

What about carpets in summer?

At temperatures above 25 °C, horses are at risk of heat stress [3]. Using blankets for horses in summer can pose an animal welfare issue. Blankets don’t keep horses cool. A horse naturally has a smooth coat that reflects the sun, and a horse will naturally seek shade when it’s hot. All large-bodied animals such as Horses, for example, take longer to cool down (and warm up) than smaller-bodied animals. Carpets prevent a cool breeze from cooling the body. Also, horses are one of the few animals that rely on sweating to cool down, and blankets impede this process (by preventing air from flowing over the body, evaporating the sweat and cooling the body).

Many people cover horses with a blanket in the summer to prevent their coat from fading in the sun. However, this is not recommended as it can trap heat and reduce the horse’s ability to cool itself. Horses must be given access to shade (trees or shelters) during the heat of the day. This is particularly important for horses who have white skin over areas such as the nostrils and are therefore prone to sunburn. Shade has also been shown to reduce the insect problem for your horse as insects are not as problematic in the shade and at night.

Horses suffering from Queensland Itch, an allergic reaction to mosquito bites, need to be slightly hardy in the summer to reduce bug bites.

What about carpets in winter?

In cold and wet weather, a good quality and well-fitting rug can help the horse maintain its condition, as a cold, wet horse uses a lot of energy to keep warm. However, remember that if your horse is young and healthy but tends to gain weight, blankets will actually help him or her maintain that fat. In a natural situation, excess body fat is burned through the winter.

An untreated horse’s coat will stand up in cold weather to trap air and warm the horse. If you choose a rug, you need to compensate for this mechanism, since a rug prevents the hair from doing its job. A robust horse may actually be colder than an untreated horse if the rug is an ill-fitting, thin blanket that smoothes the hair and reduces the horse’s movement without actually warming it. It is very important that horses are given shelter and additional feed (e.g. hay) which also helps their digestive tract instead of using too many blankets in winter [4].

Rugs need to be checked regularly (at least twice a day) to ensure the straps have not snapped and the rug has not slipped, which can cause injury to your horse. When the temperature rises and is warm during the day (above 20°C) it is important to remove heavy blankets as the horse may experience problems with excessive heat. As a horse adapts to winter temperatures, its threshold for warmer temperatures is lowered and heat stress can occur and become a welfare concern.

Hoods should be used with great care as they can slip and cover the horse’s eyes. When this happens, the horse may panic and/or fall or injure itself on objects it cannot see. In addition, a dislodged hood can rub against the horse’s eyeball and cause an eye ulcer – a very serious condition for a horse that requires immediate veterinary attention. If a hood is used, the horse must be closely monitored while wearing it.

Carpets require high-quality care. When covering horses in winter, the owner must regularly check whether the blankets are still waterproof. This is because wet blankets can be worse than no blanket as they increase heat loss from the body. Check the inner lining of blankets after rain to make sure they are still waterproof.

A blanket should be removed periodically to ensure it is not rubbing, water seeping in etc. and to ensure the horse has not lost or gained too much weight. Blankets prevent horses from properly shedding their skin (by rolling and brushing each other etc.) so a robust horse needs thorough and frequent grooming to remove the buildup of dead skin and hair (see the article Why do I need to do this? ). take care of my horse?).

If your horse suffers from carpet sores, read How to Avoid Carpet Stains and Sores – EQUUS for more information and helpful prevention strategies

Visit the Equiculture Responsible Horse Care page for more information.

Colder temperatures and shorter days pose special challenges for horse owners. Follow these tips to simplify your winter care.

As the days get shorter and the temperatures drop, the hair on our horse’s body grows longer. And as all horse owners know, this comes with some unique challenges. We still want to ride and keep ours

Horses are trained, but a thick winter coat makes grooming a little more difficult.

Although temperatures are cooler, horses sometimes sweat even more than they do in the warmer months because their coats are thicker. They keep sweating after exercise because the thick hair that is supposed to keep them warm retains more heat and doesn’t cool them down as quickly.

After training, horses need a thorough cleaning to remove dirt and residue from sweat, but it’s often too cold outside to wash and when we wash them, it takes forever for them to dry. Also, we don’t want our horse to freeze, so what do we do? Fortunately, while there is nothing we can do to change the angle of the earth in relation to the sun, there is much we can do to make winter care easier.

The biggest challenge for all horse owners is to give their horses adequate grooming before riding and to cool down and clean them properly after riding because it’s too cold outside to bathe them, even if they have the luxury of warm water, or because her winter’s coat is so thick

that they take forever to dry off. Don’t put your saddle away until spring; It is possible to keep your horse clean and groomed during the winter months.

The level of difficulty depends on how thick your horse’s winter coat is. Some horses grow very little extra hair during the winter, others, especially older horses, grow so much hair that they begin to resemble mountain goats. So if your horse gets a moderate winter coat, consider yourself lucky!

Tools specially designed for winter grooming include a winter groomer, a skin blade, and brushes with coarse bristles. Another great grooming tool is a slicker brush that’s actually made for long-haired dogs. This brush is great for getting through long, thick hair to the skin to remove dirt, dander and dried sweat. All of these winter grooming tools are designed to penetrate a thick hide. While a scraper blade is designed to speed up the process of removing winter hair in the spring, it also does double duty to remove ingrained dirt from your horse’s coat.

It is important that you give your horse a thorough grooming before riding or any other form of exercise. Sweat and dirt trapped beneath the surface can cause skin irritation. The cleaner your horse is before training, the easier it will be after training. Pay special attention to the areas around his ears, under his jaw, behind his elbows, along his girth area and saddle area. You also need to make sure that any band-aids you use are clean as well to avoid irritation.

When it comes to pre-workout grooming, there’s no substitute for elbow grease. You simply need to spend more time brushing your horse to do a thorough job.

Here are some additional tips to help you keep your horse clean and looking good:

After a thorough grooming, wipe your

Horse face down with a damp towel. This will help pick up any remaining dust. Spray COWBOY on a damp towel

MAGIC® Super Bodyshine™ and

quickly wipe your horse. Super Bodyshine™ picks up the remaining dust your brush didn’t have, helping to shed dust and reducing static electricity in your horse’s coat. Spritz Super Bodyshine™ into yours

Ponytail if it has a “broom tail” from static electricity.

During the winter months, the goal in grooming your horse after exercise should be to get it as clean as possible, using as little water as possible. If it’s not too terribly cold outside and/or you have warm water to bathe him in, do it. Use COWBOY MAGIC® Rosewater Shampoo to remove sweat and dirt without stripping your horse’s coat of its natural oils.

Then apply COWBOY MAGIC® Rosewater Conditioner to loosen and dissolve all mineral and chemical deposits as well as sweat residue. Both products contain panthenol and silk conditioners that nourish and moisturize the hair and coat. Just like their owners, horses get dry skin in winter too!

After bathing, wipe away as much excess water as possible. To dry your horse off quickly, rub vigorously with a dry towel. Instead of slicking down, let wet hair stand to encourage quick drying. If you have a cooler, use it. The cooler helps wick away moisture and keeps your horse from chilling. Stand or walk your horse in the sun until it is dry. If it’s not sunny or warm enough to be outside, put your horse in his stall or some other place where he’s protected from drafts that could cause chills. If your horse is cold, get them moving by walking or jogging them. This will warm him up and help him dry faster.

Once your horse is dry, spray his coat, mane and tail with Super Bodyshine™. This serves two purposes: it helps repel dust and dirt, making your next clean easier, and it helps reduce that pesky static electricity that plagues horses during the dry winter months. Finally, brush his fur flat again.

If it’s too cold outside to give your horse a thorough bath after exercise, or if you don’t have hot water, you can always use a sponge to wipe away the sweaty areas. If possible, get a bucket of warm water, even if you got it from the kitchen sink, or use a plug-in kettle (be sure to follow the safety instructions).

instructions if you use one). Squeeze excess water out of the sponge and rub vigorously into your horse’s sweaty areas. You don’t want to get him too wet. Work on a small area, then rinse the sponge thoroughly and move on to the next area. After cleaning it with a sponge, vigorously rub the areas clean and dry with a towel. Leave hair to dry, then spray with COWBOY MAGIC® Super Bodyshine™ Spray and brush smooth.

Another great tool for cleaning your horse before and after training is COWBOY MAGIC® Greenspot® Remover. This “bottle shower” instantly removes wet or dried sweat. Spray a small amount onto area to be cleaned, massage with a damp towel to activate ingredients and repeat with a dry towel to pick up and absorb dirt, dander and sweat. Greenspot® Remover is an all-natural, non-foaming cleaner. It contains silk conditioners and panthenol to condition the hair and skin and shea butter to keep your horse shiny. And of course, if you want to remove a manure stain, it works wonders there too.

When you’re done, your horse might still look as fuzzy as a mountain goat, but it’ll be clean, shiny, and ready for the next day of winter riding.

Togged up! A basic guide to robust horses

First the science part

Horses are mammals and they maintain their internal body temperature at around 38°C through a well-evolved mechanism known as thermoregulation, which has evolved over the course of evolution, keeping body temperature within a narrow range. Fluctuations outside of these normal temperature ranges can cause health problems, so these sophisticated systems must be respected and understood.

Typical things that affect the body temperature of horses are:

drive out horses

If it turns out, a horse’s natural ability to cope with cold temperatures is undoubtedly positively impacted by the availability of shelter.

Studies have repeatedly shown that field protection (minimum 3-sided) can reduce heat loss by around 20% by keeping the horse’s coat dry and reducing heat loss from wind chill. Most performance horses that are out in adverse weather conditions would probably benefit from a turnout rug, especially in wet and windy weather, especially when shelter is not available. Neck covers on a rug can also help keep a horse ‘warm’ in these circumstances. Of course, many performance horses are also brought in at the moment when wind, rain or snow sets in, or in preparation to avoid it.

stable horses

One of the disadvantages of stalling in relation to rugging is that it inevitably limits activity, preventing the horse from generating body heat through exercise. Of course, this must be taken into account when choosing the carpet. It is well documented that maximum ventilation, when intended for stable horses, has tremendous health benefits. Of course, this stays the same in winter, but that can also mean drafts that are not good for any horse. Pay attention to these and, if possible, deal with the source of the draft in this situation. Neck protection can also be useful here.

cutout

This is common for performance horses in most professional stables these days and plays an important role in the choice of which blanket to use. When a horse is fully clipped we have removed its natural layer of warmth and water repellent barrier, so it makes sense to replace these with ‘enough’ warm and dry indoor and outdoor blankets. We will come back to what “sufficient” is. The nature of the clip itself must also be considered. A fully clipped horse requires different considerations when choosing a rug than an unclipped or partially clipped horse.

bathing and washing

This is not an unusual year-round experience for your average performance horse. Every time we bathe a horse, we strip its coat of some of its natural warming and water-repellent properties, even with a clipped coat. Today most stables have hot water showers to bathe their horses, but some don’t. Bathing a horse in cold water during inclement winter weather is not ideal and is an important consideration in a basic horse guide. Once bathed in warm water, a moisture-wicking blanket should be applied until the horse has dried and then the horse can be hardened and checked a few times before a final choice of blanket is made. Never blanket a wet horse for the night – the blanket will absorb the moisture and keep it close to the horse’s body for many hours, cooling when the temperature drops.

ration hay

For various reasons, many performance horses are given rationed hay or haylage. Horses are designed to eat food for at least 16 hours of the 24-hour day, and the digestive system processes this in a way that in turn warms the horse’s body. The horse on a feed ration that is not modeled on nature will almost certainly need an extra blanket to compensate. It’s a fine balance – you could give the horse more hay and give the horse less blanket, which would be more natural for the horse, but often it’s not done in that order. One can only speculate about the reason.

riding/exercise

Warming up and cooling down horses while riding affects the horse’s body temperature and it is important that we are considerate and sensible when working with horses in cold temperatures. Unlike humans, horses lose body heat slowly. They are also slow to gain body heat. So if a horse gets too cold, it can take a long time to build up body heat again. Horses are known to develop colic or colic-like symptoms when their body temperature is too low/too high and they are unable to normalize it for some reason (eg.

Covering after exercise needs careful consideration and wisdom would suggest that a “moisture wicking” type of blanket be used until the horse has cooled down to its normal level before donning its usual night rugs/bedspreads/pasture rugs. A sweating, unshorn horse should not be left without a blanket to cool it down, this is a surefire way to cause a problem that can get seriously worse pretty quickly. Again, think carefully before blanketing a very sweaty horse for the night – like after a bath, the blanket will absorb sweat, which in turn will cool the blanket when the nighttime temperature drops.

Robustness for competition/travel/training has similarities to everything we discuss in this article, but in a very different set of circumstances – a discussion for another time.

Use your own initiative

Every horse is different, every year is different and one should never cling to “we’ve always done it this way, so why change it?”. Horses get older, rugs lose their effectiveness and the temperature in one month of the year will certainly not be the same every year! It’s amazing how many people (grooms and farm owners alike) can cling to their old ways, often to the detriment of the horses in their care.

In summary, when choosing the carpet, we must consider the following:

The environment of each horse

Every horse’s routine

Age/breed/health/condition/temperament of each horse

One note: when we step outside and very quickly find that it’s milder/colder/frosty, we can’t necessarily apply the same subjective logic to our horses as we do. They’ve been in the stable/paddock all night and were often several hours without roughage. As a seasoned head groom it always drove me insane when a groom would show up in the yard with only his eyes wrapped up, start mucking out, get hot and then go around pulling the blankets off all the horses like the horses were doing it would have cleaned out and got hot too! If the groom had stood still in the stable all morning, he would have been just as cold as when he arrived at the farm!

How to check if a horse might be cold

Do:

Check if a horse is warm enough, not too warm, if the rug has slipped a lot

Check if a horse’s coat is standing up – this is a good indicator that the horse is cold and its natural response is to try to improve the thermal properties of its coat with the standing hair (like goosebumps ).

Put your hand in a horse blanket and feel behind the withers. If it feels cool, he/she may need another layer. If it feels wet, it’s probably too hot.

Respond immediately if you notice a horse that looks uncomfortable, if the blankets are disturbed, or if the horse is shaking or sweating

Keep an eye on the weather forecast and be prepared for temperature swings that are common in fall and spring and at different times of the day. Your carpeted room can feel like a not-so-magical roundabout these times of year, as all the donning and doffing is just a matter of hours apart

Keep a thermometer on the wall outside the barn so you know what the daytime temperature is in the yard and make sure you don’t rely on a weather forecast that’s really only for the northernmost parts of the country is applicable!

Not:

Go for the warmth of the horses ears or legs.

Suppose because you are hot/cold the horses must be too. Think about the ambient temperature, what you’ve done, what they’ve done.

Never assume that an unshorn/partially clipped performance horse, because he is sweaty from training, needs to be unshorn to cool down.

A rough guide to choosing which carpet to use

Make sure the rug actually fits the horse. There are many online guides to do this properly. Horses can change shape and size year after year. Probably this is something best done well in advance so you don’t get stuck with a rug when you actually need it!

condition of the horse. If a horse is overweight, they can use that extra weight to expend energy for thermoregulation – a healthy way to shed a few pounds, but don’t go crazy with it! If a horse is struggling to maintain condition, it may be a good idea to offer a little more help so he doesn’t waste energy on thermoregulation. Of course, if a horse is trembling, that’s not a good sign, even if it’s a bit severe. Likewise, a skinny horse will not regulate when sweating under a blanket either. You have to use your head or it’s just plain mean to the horse!

Horses are better off regulating their own body temperature, primarily through digestion. As winter approaches, do you wonder if a horse needs a small blanket or if an extra hay net would be more beneficial? Does he/she need both?

Is there much worse to come? Don’t rush to harness your horses because you’ll be shocked to step out of a centrally heated building in late October. Be careful with the rate at which you add rugs as winter approaches. Check very regularly whether your horse is warm enough, too warm, and ultimately let that guide you.

Most experienced grooms and stable owners, over time, learn the needs of the individual horses in their care and seem to know instinctively which rugs to use and when. But they will often stop and think about it or change their mind at the last minute. Take the opportunity to ask them to explain their logic and mindset so you can learn from it.

Don’t be afraid to ask the various well known rug companies for advice too – sure they will try to sell you a rug but that doesn’t stop them from giving you some useful advice regarding a particular horse you are not sure of.

in summary

Rugging is both an art and a science. If you don’t really know what rug or combination of rugs is right for a particular horse on a particular day, ask. Grooming positions are very popular these days and owners and horses rely on you to be knowledgeable and up to date with the facts and latest knowledge. Have a great Autumn/Winter and Spring and become a carpet guru! Once again, don’t forget about yourself – don’t forget to wrap up appropriately on a freezing winter’s day and don’t forget to take a cold bath! And if you do, don’t forget the wick! 😊

Find out about some of the problems that mud can cause for your horse or pony and what you can do to avoid them.

If it rains where you live, chances are you’ve experienced muddy conditions in your barn. Obviously squeezing through deep mud in your muck boots isn’t fun, but did you know that mud can cause problems for your favorite horse? Let’s take a look at mud and how it affects the horses in your stable.

mud fever

Mauke is a painful skin infection caused by a nasty microorganism that thrives on damp horse fur. This organism causes scabs and hair loss. Mauke is very common in horses that spend a lot of time outdoors in wet or muddy conditions. It usually shows up in the pastern and heel area of ​​a horse.

If your horse develops mallenders, you must do your best to keep his legs dry for a while to allow them to heal. Hose off the mud and treat the area with an iodine-based antibacterial shampoo or scrub. Then dry the area with a clean towel. Most importantly, your horse will need to spend some time in a stall or in a dry stall for the wounds to heal.

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Bad driving surface

Driving in deep sticky mud is not a good idea and you should try to avoid it. Deep mud can twist sensitive horses legs and potentially damage leg tendons and ligaments. Rain can turn even the best arena into a muddy swamp. If your stable arena gets very deep and sticky when it rains, give your horse a day off. If you must ride, stick to slower speeds so you don’t strain your horse’s legs.

A horse is more likely to throw up (hits its front heel with its hind hoof) when being ridden in mud, so put rubber boots on it if you really need to ride it in bad conditions. Overreach or hoof bells also help to put his shoes on.

Eventing riders, people who jump their horses over terrain fences, often use cleats (seals) on muddy days. These are small pointed pieces of metal that are screwed into specially drilled holes in a horseshoe. They help the horse’s hooves grip the ground so it stays balanced when jumping and doesn’t slide around on the mud as much. Screwing in cleats takes practice, so don’t try them at a show for the first time.

Dragged shoes

Deep, sticky mud can rip horseshoes off, even when tightened properly. The mud just seems to suck off the shoes. If your area gets really muddy in winter, you should take off your horseshoes for the winter. Unless you ride him and he has pretty good feet, you probably don’t need them.

If you wish to keep the shoes on, ask your farrier to fit toe clips. Toe clips are two triangular shaped clips that help hold shoes in place.

If you notice your horse has lost a hoof, it’s a good idea to go to the pasture to look for it. You don’t want your horse or one of his grazing friends to step on it and have a nail pierce his hoof. You can also save some money as your farrier will likely be able to use the same shoe instead of fitting him a new shoe (which will cost you extra money).

Care for muddy legs

If you have ridden in muddy conditions it is important that you hose down your horse’s legs and dry them with a clean towel.

If it’s really cold and you don’t want to hose him down, put him in a box for a while until the mud on his legs dries and you can brush him off with a dandy brush.

Always pick your horse’s hooves after riding in the mud. Sharp stones can get stuck in muddy hooves and stones can cause rockfalls and abscesses.

Muddy fields and pens

There’s probably not much you can do about the mud in your barn’s fields, that’s the owner’s responsibility. But if your horse lives in a small stall, consider scooping out any wet patches and replacing them with dry bedding. There are many absorbent bedding products. Look for it at your local feed or supply store.

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2004 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to login!

BY GRACE SALMON

Whether we’re targeting the show ring or home lessons, most riders have one common goal: to make their horses look good. Often we’re so focused on what we can do to improve our grooming routine, including a wide range of grooming tools, but have you ever thought about what not to do to keep your horses happy, healthy and beautiful? Ditch those grooming habits you need to break to keep your horses looking their best.

1. Do not allow care items to dry thoroughly.

Leaving brushes and towels wet or damp allows bacteria to multiply. Bacteria can potentially cause all sorts of problems like fungi and dry skin for your horse. Allowing brushes and towels to dry completely reduces the chance of transferring bacteria to your horse’s coat.

2. Don’t pluck hooves – not even on days off.

If mud, manure and wet shaving are left in the hooves for too long, bacteria will creep in and cause thrush. It’s important to clean your horse’s hooves, even on days they’re not being ridden, to avoid the risk of spreading thrush.

3. Sharing grooming tools and products.

Although we often succumb to the convenience of community grooming remedies, remember that this is one of the easiest ways to spread fungus among horses. While it’s okay to share things like detanglers, consider keeping a separate set of brushes just for your horse to keep bacteria at bay.

4. Bathing your horse too often.

Bathing your horse for too long will remove the natural oils in his coat, preventing the coat from shining. Too many baths even rob it of its natural ability to protect itself from things like bugs, bacteria, and fungus.

5. Not getting rid of sweat stains.

Getting rid of sweat stains is crucial to maintaining a healthy and beautiful coat. Leftover sweat can cause fungal growth or leave skin dry and itchy. If you’re in a pinch, rubbing alcohol and a good curry will suffice.

6. Do not wash out all the soapy water.

When soapy water dries on a horse’s coat, mane or tail, the coat can become dry and itchy – which can lead to chafing! This can potentially lead to bald patches and broken hair, which often does not grow back easily.

7. Brushing tails too often

Brushing your horse’s tail every day can cause breakage and potentially irreversible damage. Instead, remove any shavings, throw in a good amount of detangler, and run your fingers through the tail to get rid of any large knots or tangles. Consider taking a brush to the tail just for shows or clinics.

8. Relying only on external measures.

No matter how well you take care of your horse, if he doesn’t get the right nutrients in his body, he will never look his best. By making sure they are getting the best food and the necessary supplements, you will have a good foundation on which to build your grooming routine.

9. Only work hard when there’s a show coming up.

A well-groomed horse cuts a fine figure all year round – not just at tournaments. Consistency is key to keeping them looking beautiful and healthy. It’s also important to have a thorough grooming routine to know your horse as well as possible. If something is wrong, you can pick it up immediately.

10. Not bringing in the extra elbow fat

At the end of the day, a comprehensive and thorough grooming routine will set you up for success. It is necessary to invest time and care in our horses so that they can do their best while they do their best for us. Doing the hard work and seeing the results is so rewarding and your horse will thank you!

If you follow this advice on what not to do when grooming your horse, we hope you can easily apply it to your daily grooming routine and see the difference!

Riding harness for driving animals

Reins are used to slow down and steer the animal

Reins attached to the rings or shanks of a bit

A mekat

Pure braided rawhide roman reins

Split reins attached to a western style bridle

Reins are harnesses used to steer a horse or other mount. They are long straps, which can be made of leather, nylon, metal or other materials, and attach to a bridle either via the bit or the noseband.

Use for riding[edit]

Reins are used to give subtle commands or cues, also known as rein aids. Various commands can signal a turn, slow down, stop, or back up. Rein aids are used in conjunction with leg aids, body weight shifts, and sometimes voice commands.

Harness reins[edit]

Some types of harnesses may have support rings or “terrets” used to carry the reins across the animal’s back. When pairs of horses are used to pull a carriage or carriage, it is common for the outside of each pair to be connected to the reins, and for the inside of the bits to be connected between the horses by a short bridging strap or rope. The driver carries “four in hand” or “six in hand”, which is the number of reins connected to the pairs.

Other uses[edit]

A single bridle or rope can be attached to a halter to lead or lead a horse or packhorse. A long rein called a lunge may be used to allow the horse to move in circles for training purposes or for the purpose of a clinical lameness evaluation by a veterinarian. Certain headgear designs may have a third rein added to the paired reins for use in leading, lunging, or other special or stylistic purposes. The best-known example of a third rein used in the United States is the leading rein of the Mecate of the classic Bosal Hackamore.

Types [ edit ]

Types of reins include:

Popularly[edit]

In popular culture, to restrain means to hold back, slow down, control or limit. Egg corn is also sometimes used. The use of the opposite free rein goes back to Geoffrey Chaucer (1343–1400)[1][2] and means to give or allow complete freedom of action and decision about something.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Clayton, Hilary M.; Larson, Britt; Kaiser, Leeann J.; Lavagnino, Michael (2011). “The length and elasticity of the side reins influence the rein tension at the trot”. The Veterinary Journal. 188 (3): 291-294. doi:10.1016/j.tvjl.2010.05.027. PMID 20638876.

Clayton, Hilary M.; Singleton, Wesley H.; Lanovaz, Joel L.; Cloud, Gary L. (2005). “Strain Gauge Measurement of Rein Tension in Riding: A Pilot Study”. Equine and Comparative Exercise Physiology. 2(3): 203-205. doi:10.1079/ECP200553.

“Rein Check” (PDF). June 2011.

The Best Organization in the World (Rein Clan) https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCmr2j5VxT1nO4bBiUHyM_6w