Cascade Japanese Maple Bonsai? 77 Most Correct Answers

Indoor growing comes with several challenges, especially if you are growing a tree. Although Japanese maples can be tall, they can be grown indoors in containers and are often used in bonsai art. Growing Japanese maples indoors means solving the problem of their natural size while still meeting their seasonal needs. Once you’ve accomplished these two feats, you can enjoy Japanese maple trees indoors just as easily as you can outside your home.

“Help! My bonsai tree is dying!” Unfortunately, we get calls for help quite often on our forums. So we created a guide to reviving a dying bonsai. I will walk you through all the steps to save your bonsai.

Bad news…

I hate to tell you, but trees don’t generally die of old age, so you most likely screwed something up. And now that you’ve finally found this page, you’re probably too late…

But there is still hope for you! How do you liven up a bonsai tree?

Bonsai care is not that difficult. However, we estimate that more than 75% of newly purchased bonsai trees die within the first month. Follow the steps below to successfully take care of your bonsai tree.

STEP 1 – Identify your tree

First of all, you need to know what type of tree you have. Indoor bonsai have very different needs than outdoor bonsai. You need to tailor the care of your bonsai to its specific needs. If you’re not sure what type of bonsai you have, use the Identify My Bonsai guide. If you are just starting out, you most likely have a juniper or ficus tree.

A popular size and shape of juniper bonsai.

A Ficus Retusa bonsai with an S-shaped trunk.

STEP 2 – Learn about the specific care of your bonsai

Now that you have identified your bonsai, learn how to care for it properly in our tree species section. If you happen to have a ficus or juniper tree, just click on the link under the relevant image above. Once you start watering and fertilizing your tree properly and you have found the optimal placement for your specific tree, your bonsai is on the road to recovery and healthy growth.

STEP 3 – Common Bonsai Care Mistakes

Now that you’ve read all about your specific tree species and how to care for it, you should know what went wrong:

#1 Mistake: Forgetting the water

Bonsai trees are planted in small pots, which doesn’t leave much room for nutrient and water reserves. If you forget to water your bonsai and the soil dries out completely, the roots will quickly dry out and the tree will die. You will know your roots are drying out when the soil is completely dry and the leaves begin to wither and fall off, or if you have an evergreen plant its foliage is starting to turn yellow. If the roots have completely dried up, you can no longer save the tree. However, if the roots are not completely dry yet, you can save the tree by watering it properly and following the appropriate care routine. How much water your bonsai needs depends on the type of tree you have and the soil you planted it in. If you bought a cheap starter bonsai, chances are it was shipped from China in clay-like soil to survive the voyage. This type of soil does not absorb water quickly and the trees can arrive with complications. To help your tree regain strength and prepare it for repotting, make sure you water it thoroughly. Water your tree, wait a few minutes, and then water again to ensure all of the clayey soil has a chance to absorb all of the moisture. Once your tree has recovered, transplant it to the correct soil mix according to our care guide. Read more about watering bonsai trees and repotting your bonsai. Mistake #2: Putting an outdoor tree indoors

The juniper is one of the most common bonsai trees for beginners, but it is an outdoor tree. If placed indoors, the foliage will turn yellow and the tree will slowly die. After identifying your tree species, you will know where to place them and how to care for them. Indoor bonsai should be placed by a south-facing window, and outdoor bonsai should get plenty of light and be protected from strong winds. Read more about indoor bonsai and outdoor bonsai care. #3 Mistake: Overwatering

If you’ve planted your bonsai in a soil mix that retains plenty of water, frequent watering will keep your soil moist and cause the roots to rot and die. Neglecting your water tree can kill a tree within days, but overwatering will slowly kill your tree within a few weeks. Read more about watering bonsai trees. #4 Mistake: Insufficient light

Most if not all indoor bonsai plants are subtropical trees. This means they need plenty of light to survive. Most homes don’t get enough natural light, so it’s important to place your tree right next to a south-facing window. Anything else just isn’t good enough. Read more about choosing the right location for your tree. #5 Mistake: Lack of Patience

Beginners are sometimes overly enthusiastic about redesigning their trees every two weeks. They tend to overlap and adjust their wiring too often, and trees can’t keep up with that rate of change. Major changes to your bonsai, such as repotting or significant pruning, should only be made once a year and at the appropriate time of year. Between these stylings, groom your tree and maintain its shape, but try not to make major changes more than once a year.

A stunning Japanese maple bonsai (Acer palmatum), see our bonsai gallery for more photos.

STEP 4 – If you think you haven’t made any of the above mistakes

If you have properly cared for your tree according to care guidelines and it is still unhealthy and/or dying, your tree may be infected with some type of pest. Check your tree’s leaves for insects and carefully remove the tree from its pot to see if there are any insects in the root mass. Read more about pests and diseases or post some pictures on our bonsai forum for help.

STEP 5 – Saving Your Bonsai Tree

There is no magic cure to help your tree recover. The only thing you can do is follow the care guidelines for your particular tree. Do not neglect or overwater and place your tree in a suitable location. Hopefully your tree will recover and if you continue to take care of your tree it should live a long and healthy life.

STEP 6 – Long term plan

Growing bonsai trees is a fascinating hobby, so it’s really a shame when beginners don’t keep their trees alive and get discouraged. Caring for a bonsai is not very difficult. Knowing what species of tree you have and what your bonsai needs is all there is to it. Keep learning and improving!

Japanese maple bonsai trees are best known for their unique leaf shape and seasonal changes. Because of their deciduous nature, maples shed their leaves in winter and sprout again in spring.

The success of your bonsai depends on a variety of factors, most notably water and light. Below are some species specific guidelines to follow to ensure your bonsai stays healthy and happy.

Japanese Dwarf Maple Japanese dwarf maples are slow-growing, compact trees that reach about 3 to 8 feet tall, depending on the cultivar. They tend to have small leaves, short internodes, and profuse branching.

Japanese Maple ‘Shirazz’ In spring, ‘Shirazz’ delights with light pink leaves that turn green with creamy pink edges throughout the summer. This Japanese maple is in it for the long haul – it can live 60 years or more!

‘Coonara Pygmy’ Japanese Maple ‘Coonara Pygmy’ features ever-changing leaves that appear pale pink and green in spring. Once summer arrives, the Japanese maple loses its pink hues before turning a bright orange-yellow with splashes of red in fall. This tree requires full sun to part shade.

‘Beni Shidare Tri-Colour’ Japanese Maple ‘Beni Shidare Tri-Colour’ adopts a pendulous form with deeply divided red, green and white leaves that turn orange in autumn. This tree needs partial shade with shelter from the wind to prevent the leaves from burning.

‘Pendulum Julian’ Japanese Maple ‘Pendulum Julian’ has delicate, double-serrated leaves that emerge green with brown highlights in spring. In summer, the leaves turn burgundy before turning a rich red color in fall.

Japanese Maple ‘Viridis’ ‘Viridis’ features light green, lacy foliage that forms an elegant dome shape over time. It’s a beautiful bright orange in fall with golden yellow undertones and crimson reflections, fading into bright green throughout summer. This maple is the strongest of the green Laceleaf maples.

‘Pink Ballerina’ Japanese Maple ‘Pink Ballerina’ is a super rare specimen with pink and red foliage and dissected leaves.

‘Beni Schichihenge’ Japanese Maple ‘Beni Schichihenge’ is a rare specimen, resplendent with multicolored foliage in spring. It features green leaves bordered in pure white with bright pink edges.

Japanese Maple ‘Orangeola’ ‘Orangeola’ is a fast growing Japanese maple that displays stunning orange foliage in spring and fall. In summer, the leaves turn red and green tones.

‘Red Dragon’ Japanese Maple ‘Red Dragon’ has deeply dissected purple leaves that turn bright apple red in fall. Its slow growth habit and size, maturing at 7 to 8 feet, make this tree perfect for containers.

Japanese Maple ‘Chishio’ ‘Chishio’, also known as ‘Chishio Improved’ or ‘Shishio Improved’, emerges in early spring with a mix of bronze and pink foliage, blue-green foliage in summer and orange-red foliage in fall.

‘Deshojo’ Japanese Maple ‘Deshojo’ has salmon red leaves in spring that turn green in summer and orange-scarlet in fall. It is well suited to container living.

‘Shishigashira’ Japanese Maple ‘Shishigashira’ has solid green foliage throughout summer and purple foliage with orange hues in fall. It’s good for containers or small gardens.

‘Crimson Princess’ Japanese Maple ‘Crimson Princess’ has lacy bright red foliage in spring that won’t fade in the summer heat. In autumn the leaves turn orange.

‘Crimson Queen’ Japanese Maple ‘Crimson Queen’ has delicate, drooping foliage and retains its beautiful crimson color throughout summer.

‘Summer Gold’ Japanese Maple ‘Summer Gold’ displays a light green color in spring before, as the name suggests, displaying a beautiful golden yellow color throughout the summer, even in hot weather.

‘Little Princess’ Japanese Maple ‘Little Princess’ has bright, apple-green leaves with red margins in spring that turn yellow in fall. This tree is ideal for small gardens and containers.

Which bonsai is best for indoors?

There are several tropical and subtropical trees that you can grow indoors. The most common and easiest to care for is the Ficus Bonsai. The ficus tolerates low humidity and is very hardy, making it an excellent choice for beginners.

Other popular indoor bonsai include the dwarf jade, fukien tea (Carmona), Hawaiian umbrella (Schefflera), and sweet plum (Sageretia). If you choose one of these trees and take care of it properly, your indoor bonsai will thrive.

indoor bonsai trees; a Ficus, Carmona and Chinese Elm.

Why can’t I keep temperate, non-tropical bonsai indoors?

As mentioned above, temperate trees require a dormant period during winter. In this dormant period, the annual growth cycle ends and the tree prepares for the next cycle, which will begin again in spring. A tree becomes dormant when temperatures and light levels gradually decrease over several weeks, which doesn’t happen if you keep temperate trees indoors. Tropical and subtropical trees do not need this rest period.

Caring for indoor bonsai trees

Caring for an indoor bonsai differs from caring for normal indoor plants in a pot. The main reason is that bonsai trees are planted in small pots and therefore have a limited ability to store nutrients and water. More importantly, tropical trees are accustomed to receiving plenty of light and high humidity, climates that are difficult to reproduce indoors.

Specific care of indoor bonsai species:

1st light

The main problem with keeping a tropical bonsai tree indoors is that the light intensity is much lower than outdoors. Trees don’t die immediately if they don’t get enough light, but growth slows down and weakens the plant over time. Therefore, it is highly recommended to place your bonsai in a light spot, preferably right in front of a south-facing window when growing bonsai indoors.

Even if you have a south-facing window, the light intensity can still be too low. You can supplement this light deficit with artificial lighting to help your tree. For example, you can use fluorescent lighting with growth-friendly radiation spectra or light-emitting diode lighting for about 10 hours a day. Read more about placement.

2. Moisture

Another problem with keeping a bonsai tree indoors is that the tree needs relatively high humidity, much higher than your home’s conditions, especially with heating or air conditioning. You can increase the humidity around your bonsai tree by placing it on a humidity tray filled with water and misting your tree a few times a day. You can also let the air circulate from the outside by opening a window during the day.

3. Watering and fertilizing

The most important rule is never to routinely water. Ignore the tag on your bonsai tree that says to water every x days. The best course of action is to monitor your tree and its soil and only water when necessary. Please see the Watering and Fertilizing pages for detailed information.

4. Temperature

Tropical tree species require relatively high temperatures all year round, similar to the normal room temperature in your living room.

Subtropical bonsai trees can withstand slightly lower temperatures and generally thrive when enjoying a winter season with temperatures well below normal room temperature.

In summary, make sure you choose the right tree species and follow the specific care guidelines for indoor trees, and your bonsai will thrive!

Cascade and semi-cascade plantings

Definition – Semi Cascade: This style is often seen in nature where chicken trees grow on or near vertical rock faces or on the side of rivers and lakes where the light from the water reflects to the underside of the branches, exposing the lower branches be encouraged to stretch out the water.

To qualify as a semi-cascade, the main line should generally be between 45 degrees above and just below horizontal and terminate at or slightly below the level of the pot rim. This is not an exact rule and depends heavily on the visual mass of the bonsai design – a strong horizontal mass would still be classified as semi-cascade even if it extends well below the pot rim. As with the slanting style, any exposed roots can be seen to counterbalance the angle of the trunk. Many species are suitable for semi-cascade cultivation. Exceptions are those that have a strong, upright habit, such as gingko, cryptomeria and bald cypress.

Definition – Cascade Bonsai: This depicts a tree growing on a mountainside, leaning towards the light. Its own weight and the weight of winter snow or even avalanches and falling rocks help the trunk grow downwards. In general, the bonsai trunk line falls below horizontal, with the trunk ending below the level of the bottom of the pot. This is not accurate, however, as a visible mass pointing strongly downward can be classified as a cascade even if the end does not reach the bottom of the pot. As with the semi-cascade, this style is not suitable for trees with strong upright habit.

Containers: Cascade and semi-cascade containers are typically large and heavy. This mass is usually needed to “balance” the visual weight of the tree. The molds can be round, square or hexagonal and are usually made of unglazed pottery, but compatible glazed containers may be used for fruiting or flowering species.

Material Types: Almost any type can be grown as a cascade or semi-cascade. Exceptions (several mentioned above) are those that have a vigorous, upright growth habit. Generally, evergreen species such as pine and juniper are used because at the altitude at which such “cascading” would occur in nature, these would be the most likely species. However, this does not exclude other species. Look for material that will bud back readily and have a steady growing habit.

KENGAI Bonsai is the Japanese word for cascade. Han-Kengai is the word for semi-cascade. Both styles can be grouped into two approaches: single and double line cascade.

Single strand cascade describes a shape that comes out of the container and falls straight down. It is essentially an informal vertical that is turned upside down.

Double line cascade describes a form in which the number one branch of an informal or sloped bonsai becomes the cascade part of the tree.

Potting: As mentioned above, a deep pot is always used for cascades. If possible, plant the tree in the center or slightly towards the back of the container, making sure the trunk does not touch the edge of the container.

Position and placement of the stem line: In the classical sense, a direct line can be drawn between the apex (if present), root base and growing tip of the cascade. This requires the cascading portion of the tree to rotate back inward toward the trunk and helps balance the whole.

It should not be considered a hard rule of fasting. In some cases, cascades can move away from their container and create an eye-catching effect. Care must be taken to ensure that the planting does not become unbalanced. As with most bonsai, branches emerge on the outside of curves. In cascade, however, the pot

often conflicts with placing branches in their otherwise correct position. A branch would not grow into a slope… so it must not grow into the wall of a container. Cascade offers flexibility in this regard, often allowing branches to be placed in fore and aft positions, which would not normally be acceptable if the plant were designed as an upright style. Impact and overall impact are the keywords in cascade design. Be more concerned with artistic effect and less with mechanics.

Care and Maintenance: Cascade and Semicascade respond to the same type of care that most bonsai thrive on. However, because the growing tip extends below the pot and thus the root mass, the transfer of nutrients to the growing tip can be slow. For this reason foliar feeding, especially of the lower branches, is recommended. Care must also be taken to keep top growth in check lest it overtake and overshadow lower and slower cascading branches.

Information and illustrations for this publication were taken with gratitude from Bonsai Techniques by John Naka and The Complete Book Of Bonsai by Harry Tomlinson.

Written by Randy Clark

How do I make a good bonsai trunk?

The base and trunk immediately draws attention when looking at a bonsai tree. We discuss the most important aspects of the trunk: the surface roots, the taper, the thickness and the shape.

The Nebari

The nebari (surface roots or root suckers) is important to give a bonsai a balanced look. Deciduous bonsai, like the Japanese maple, are often found with broad, radial surface roots that anchor the tree. For more information, see the Surface Roots page.

rejuvenation

A trunk should be thicker at its base than at the top of the tree; This is called taper. Although it is difficult to correct irregularities in a trunk’s thickness (choose trees well before buying them), it is possible to achieve minor changes:

Thickened part of bonsai trunk

By distributing the tree’s growth to the branches just above the thin part of the trunk, that part benefits from increased nutrient flow and thereby grows thicker. Mapping growth can be done by pruning the entire tree except for the branches above the thin part on the trunk. This method is slow and it will take at least two years before you start noticing any changes. As said; Selecting trees on its tapered trunk is important. Thin out part of the hull

Since it is impossible to make a trunk thinner, the only way to make the trunk thinner is to thicken the other parts of the trunk using the method above. However, it will take even longer before you can see a significant change. You can hide the thick point by making a jin or shari (deadwood features) instead.

This strain looks very mature; The base is significantly thicker than the top of the tree.

This strain also shows a nice taper as well as movement.

thickness

Bonsai plants often look older than they are when they have a thick and gnarled trunk. The only option for a thicker trunk is to let the tree grow freely in a large container without pruning for several years. Once you’re happy with the thickness of the stem, you can retrain it and place it in a smaller pot.

One technique to thicken a trunk is to grow “sacrificial branches” from the trunk. These branches are not pruned at all for two to five years, making the trunk thicker as they grow quickly. After two to five years, the branches are removed.

The branch growing to the right is the sacrificial branch.

Close-up, this branch has not been pruned for 2 years.

overall shape

The overall shape of a trunk is one of the most striking aspects of a tree. Some bonsai have slender, elegant, and sinuous trunks; Juniper bonsai, for example, often exhibit these characteristics. The classic Japanese black pine, on the other hand, often shows a thick, heavy trunk. Because it’s almost impossible to bend a log once it reaches a certain thickness (up to that point you can use a log bender), it’s important to consider the shape of the log when purchasing.

How trees grow

Before we discuss both techniques in more detail, it’s helpful to get some more basic information about how trees grow. This will help us understand how to prune bonsai trees efficiently.

Trees have a natural tendency to grow with apical dominance. This means that the central main stem of the plant will grow more dominant than its side stems. For example, in a branch, the main stem of the branch is more dominant than its side branches. This natural mechanism encourages trees to grow taller to avoid being shaded by competing trees. By distributing growth to the upper and outer edges, the inner and lower branches of the tree will eventually die off while the upper branches will grow disproportionately, both of which are undesirable traits for bonsai aesthetics.

Knowing the natural growth patterns of trees tells us how to use pruning techniques to counteract the effects of apical dominance. Because the dominant growth occurs on the central trunks of a tree, we know that we need to prune the top and outer parts of a tree more thoroughly. This forces the tree to redistribute growth to the inner and lower parts, giving us control over the growth and shape of the tree.

Pruning of a Ficus Bonsai. We maintain the shape of this tree by pruning it regularly, which also results in finer growth and a dense canopy.

Bonsai maintenance pruning

The goal of maintenance pruning is to maintain and refine the shape of a tree. As explained above, trees concentrate most of their growth on the top and outer parts of their trunks; It is important to regularly prune these growth areas to encourage growth closer to the inner parts of the tree.

When to cut bonsai? Maintenance pruning can be done throughout the growing season, usually from March to September for outdoor bonsai. Indoor bonsai can be cut all year round. How should I cut? Maintenance pruning is required to maintain the shape of a tree. To do this, simply cut back branches and shoots that have outgrown the intended crown shape with branch shears or a normal cutter. Using the right bonsai tools will help significantly. Don’t be afraid to prune your bonsai regularly, it’s important to force the tree to spread growth more evenly and develop dense foliage. Pruning bonsai trees is one of the many topics covered in our online bonsai course, specially designed for beginners. Check out the beginner’s course for more information and a free lesson. Pines and some conifers should be pinched by hand rather than pruned with scissors. Using shears, cutters, or scissors to prune some conifer species can result in brown dead foliage on the cuttings. To prevent this, hold the tip of the shoot between your thumb and forefinger and gently pull it off. The shoot breaks at its weakest point and you avoid brown or dead ends. Different species need different care in terms of pruning and pinching; some even need a combination of both. Please see our Bonsai Tree Types Guide for information by tree species. Another method of bonsai pruning is defoliation, which involves removing the leaves from deciduous trees in summer to force the tree to produce new leaves. This technique is used to reduce the size of the tree’s leaves and increase branching. See the Defoliation page for more information.

Pruning a pine (wrong)

Pinch by hand (right)

Structural bonsai pruning

In order to give a tree its basic shape, large branches often have to be pruned. Deciding which branches to keep and which to remove can be a difficult decision. Not only because it is an irreversible action, but also because it determines what the tree will look like. Before we delve into techniques used to prune bonsai trees, we recommend taking a look at the Progressions section. Here are great references and examples of experienced bonsai artists structuring nursery stock.

When should I cut? In general, the best time to trim a tree is in early spring and in some cases late fall, just before and after the growing season. The exact time varies from species to species. In the tree species section you can check the specifics of your particular tree, for example a ficus bonsai needs different timing than a juniper bonsai. How do you prune a bonsai? Place your tree on a table and position yourself at eye level with it. Begin by removing any dead branches from the tree. When you’re done with that, take a close look at your tree and decide which branches need to be removed to create your desired design. We’ve provided a few guidelines in the image below, but designing your tree is more of a creative process and not bound by “rules”. Take a look at the Bonsai Styles page for some additional tips and tricks.

Pruning a Bonsai Tree Illustration; gray branches can be removed. Ultimately, pruning isn’t about following strict rules, it’s about finding the best design for your tree. This figure is only intended to give some general guidelines.

Pruning thick branches usually results in ugly scars, but by using special concave knives you can significantly reduce the scar effect. We recommend sealing large wounds with cutting paste, which is available at most online bonsai shops. The paste protects the wounds from infection and helps the tree heal faster. Again, using the right bonsai tools helps significantly.

A healthy tree should easily cope with pruning up to 1/3 of its foliage. Some say you should cut/remove an equal percentage of roots after a tree is styled. However, most experts advise only doing one major maintenance at a time (or even once a year). For example, if you are doing a structural pruning this spring, you should wait to repot or root cut until next spring, when the tree has fully recovered from the structural pruning. See the Surface Roots page for more details on root pruning.

A Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) is one of the statelier plants to use in the garden. There is incredible variation between cultivated cultivars, making it difficult to describe a typical Japanese maple. They can be grown as single-stemmed small trees or large multi-stemmed shrubs ranging in height from six to 25 feet meaning a Japanese maple can fit into a variety of landscapes. The leaves range in color from dark green to red or reddish purple and can have between five and nine deeply dissected lobes. Fall color is very vibrant and layered branches give Japanese maples an interesting look in the winter months.

Where to Plant a Japanese Maple

Since Japanese maples are both slow growing and expensive to purchase, it is important to consider where to plant them and how to care for them. Although native to Japan, China, Taiwan, and Korea, Japanese maples can perform well in zones 5 and 6 when planted in the right location. It is not uncommon for plants to die back somewhat after particularly harsh winters. Prevent potential hardiness problems by planting in sheltered locations protected from harsh winter winds and avoiding low-lying areas. Japanese maples tend to leaf early in the season and are sensitive to late spring frosts.

Japanese maples grow best when planted in well-drained, acidic soil rich in organic matter. While they can be grown in poor soil, their growth rate is much slower and trees are more likely to be stressed. Ideally, they should be placed in a spot with mottled shade. The foliage of the Japanese maple is prone to leaf scorching in hot and dry locations in full sun. Burnt leaves develop brown edges and often fall off the tree in mid to late summer. Planting in full sun is only possible if the soil can be kept evenly moist even during the summer heat. Mulching can help by keeping roots cool and retaining soil moisture. Planting in the shade is often preferable, although purple-leaved varieties can develop a greenish tinge, which, while still beautiful, detracts from the desired trait of the plant.

How to prune a Japanese maple

Once established, Japanese maples can be considered a low maintenance plant. When young they may need some structural pruning to improve their appearance and health but should not require much additional trimming. Strive to keep branches in layers that don’t touch or rub against each other, and remove any that grow inward or are too vertical. Japanese maples tend to drip a lot of sap when pruned in late winter or early spring, so wait until summer when the spring growth blush has subsided to prune.

Fertilizing a Japanese maple

Don’t bother fertilizing a newly planted Japanese maple as the roots are unlikely to have the ability to absorb nutrients. If necessary, established plants can be fertilized in the spring before the leaves sprout. Japanese maples don’t need a lot of supplemental fertilizer, especially when the soil is full of organic matter. Therefore, only apply it when the plant seems to be growing too slowly or when a soil test shows a deficiency. Slow release fertilizers are the best choice as they gradually break down over the growing season and provide a continuous source of nutrients when the plant needs it. These types of fertilizers have a high percentage of “water-insoluble nitrogen,” which is listed on the label.

Healthy Japanese maples have very few problems with insects or disease and make a great addition to almost any garden. They have the potential to occasionally produce viable seeds and the odd seedling, but are not considered an invasive plant in New Hampshire. Attentive gardeners can discard unwanted seedlings as they emerge. As long as you pay attention to where they are planted and how they are cared for, they can provide decades of enjoyment.

Summer is here and the Japanese maples have bloomed! However, sometimes their leaves are so showy. They tend to brown, curl up, change color, or scorch/burn completely. At worst they will shrivel up and fall out of the tree entirely, more common local cases are just minor burns or burns from too much sun and not enough water. We’ve listed a few things to check on your maple to make sure there isn’t a major problem beneath the surface:

overhydration

Yes, too much water can actually cause your tree to exhibit some of these symptoms. While Japanese maples definitely appreciate wet soil, especially in the first few years of planting, overwatering is definitely a common cause of decline. If your leaves are turning brown/black at the tips, it could be a sign that you’ve been watering too much. The best way to determine the moisture content of the soil is to perform a simple soil test with your finger. Make sure you allow adequate time between waterings to avoid root rot.

full sun

Finally, Japanese maples are “partial shade” trees. They can adapt well to the scorching sun that Georgia has to offer, but still thrive best when given some shade throughout the day. If you find that your maple is causing burned leaves year after year, it might be time to think about rearranging it or building some sort of filtered shade to put it on top. When transplanting a tree, be sure to hire an arborist in Lilburn, Georgia with certified arborists to help you, as it can be detrimental to the Japanese maple’s health.

wet leaves

Make sure when watering your Japanese maple, especially if it is in the afternoon, that you keep the water away from the leaves and only at the base of the tree as this can scald the leaves.

What not to do:

– Overwatering in hopes it will stop the scalding.

-Try to move the tree yourself.

– Soak it in fertilizer.

-Spray it with harmful chemicals.

What to do:

Call North American Tree Service to receive a diagnosis of the tree and a plan to resolve the problem from a certified arborist in Lilburn, Georgia. We perform tree transplants, routine fertilization and regular pruning/trimming. Call us today for a free tree appraisal in Lilburn, Georgia!

Do you love bonsai plants? Would you like to display them in your home or garden? Here are some of the best bonsai trees you can use!

If you love trees but don’t have enough space to grow them, you can teach them to grow short. As? By turning them into bonsai plants! Check out the best trees for bonsai and choose the one you like the most!

Find some stunning indoor bonsai pictures here

Best trees for bonsai

1. Japanese Maple

Botanical name: Acer palmatum

Japanese maple looks great with variegated leaves. There are also countless varieties, and the bonsai tree can be shaped in different styles.

Location: It prefers a sunny, airy location. The plant is also frost hardy when raised as a bonsai, but should be protected from severe frosts (below -10°C / 14°F).

Learn how to grow Japanese maple in a pot here

2. Bodhi Tree

Botanical name: Ficus religiosa

The Bodhi is a tough plant that grows quickly and forms aerial roots. It has attractive glossy heart-shaped leaves that appear bronze-green in color.

Location: It is a tropical tree that loves sun and warmth. Place it in a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight daily (the more the better).

3. Rockspray cotoneaster

Botanical name: Cotoneaster horizontalis

It is a deciduous shrub suitable for bonsai cultivation due to its forgiving nature. The plant looks beautiful with its reddish-brown leaves.

Position: It can be grown in full sun or partial shade, but flowers are best in full sun. Frost protection is required when prolonged cold spells are expected.

4. Baobab tree

Botanical name: Adansonia

The giant baobab is a large, gigantic and legendary African tree and can really become a bonsai.

Position: If you live in a warm climate, just keep it in the sun. However, if you live in a temperate zone, keep the pot indoors during the winter.

Get the best baobab care tips here

5. European beech

Botanical name: Fagus sylvatica

This tall, stately tree will make a large to medium-sized bonsai specimen. Remember that the beech grows slowly and needs time to fully develop.

Location: Keep your beech bonsai in semi-shade to full sun and offer a spot that is protected from the intense afternoon sun, especially in summer.

6. Boxwood

Botanical name: Buxus

Not only as a hedge, boxwood can also become a bonsai. Super adaptable to containers, any species in this genus is easy to grow and care for.

Location: The boxwood is an outdoor plant that is robust and hardy and tolerates both sun and shade. Protect the plant in winter.

7. Pomegranate

Botanical name: Punica granatum

The pomegranate is one of the most outstanding fruit trees and the easiest to grow into a bonsai. Because it has a shallow root system and adapts well to bonsai culture.

Location: It should be in full sun all year round except when the temperature drops below 5°C. Keep the tree indoors in a sunny spot.

Learn how to grow pomegranates in a pot here

8. Juniper

Botanical name: Juniperus

Juniper is one of the most popular bonsai trees. ‘Juniper Procumbens Nana’ is very popular with beginners who are just starting to grow a bonsai tree.

Location: Best placed in a sunny spot with shade from the afternoon sun. Protect the tree as soon as the temperature drops below 14 F in winter.

9. Ficus retusa

Botanical name: Ficus Retusa

It is probably one of the most attractive trees among tropical bonsai growers. Easy to style, unforgiving and probably the best plant for beginners.

Position: If growing in a warm climate, keep it in partial sun. You can also keep it indoors, especially in a cool temperate climate, in a well-lit place but out of direct sunlight.

10. Ficus benjamina

Botanical name: Ficus benjamina

Benjamin Ficus is another popular plant to consider. It is a beautiful evergreen tree that forms a broad canopy of fine branches and looks great as a bonsai.

Position: She can be grown either outdoors or indoors on a windowsill that gets bright light.

Learn how to grow Ficus benjamina indoors here

11. Jade

Botanical name: Crassula ovata

Jade tree is a succulent with thick, fleshy stems and leaves. It is an easy to care for evergreen bonsai. The thick trunk gives it a mature appearance quickly.

Location: Jade Tree can be grown indoors, although it does enjoy sunny locations and high temperatures. Keep temperatures 41 F (5 C) at all times.

Grow the jade plant into such a tree

12. Crape Myrtle

Botanical name: Lagerstroemia

Crape Myrtle has exquisite branch formation and showy pink, white or purple flowers. It’s also easy to raise and care for bonsai!

Location: Crepe myrtle enjoys the bright sun for flowering. However, it can be kept indoors on a sunny windowsill.

13. Fukien Tea

Botanical name: Carmona retusa

Fukien Tea is a great addition to any bonsai collection making great little indoor bonsai. Its small, dark green, glossy leaves have tiny white dots.

Position: Fukien Tea is an indoor bonsai but can be grown outdoors in warm climates all year round. It needs a bright, sunny spot indoors.

14. Chinese Elm

Botanical name: Ulmus parvifolia

This East Asian native is one of the most magnificent elms and will easily make a spectacular bonsai. This ideal plant is forgiving and doesn’t mind regular pruning and styling.

Location: Place the plant in direct sun in the morning.

15. Bougainvillea

Botanical name: Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea has beautiful papery flowers in many colors that make an attractive display and appears incessantly, especially in favorable climates.

Position: Place it in a place that will receive at least 5-6 hours of sunlight. Protect it from freezing temperatures.

Get the best bougainvillea care tips here

16. Dwarf Schefflera

Botanical name: Schefflera arboricola

Dwarf schefflera is easy to grow, drought tolerant and difficult to kill, making it a perfect beginner bonsai plant. It’s also easy to train.

Location: Place your dwarf schefflera bonsai in bright, indirect light and protect it from direct sun. It can also survive in low light conditions.

17. Indian Banyan

Botanical name: Ficus benghalensis

The banyan tree, also called “Bargad/Bar” in the local language, is the national tree of India. The tree naturally looks old and becomes an amazing bonsai specimen.

Location: The tree needs a warm, humid climate to thrive. If you live in a cool climate, you can try to grow it carefully in winter. Place the plant in a spot that gets sun all day.

18. Adenium

Botanical name: Adenium obesum

The thick bulbous trunk, bright flowers and glossy foliage make the Adenium an ideal tree for bonsai. This flowering tree quickly creates natural looking bonsai with minimal effort.

Location: It needs a sunny, wind-protected location. If you’re growing in a non-tropical climate, bring the tree inside and keep the temperature around 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Learn some helpful Adenium care tips here

19. Olive

Botanical name: Olea europaea

Olive bonsai are robust and easy to care for and are therefore well suited as bonsai. Its smooth trunk and good branch structure make it an excellent bonsai.

Position: An olive tree that is hardy in zone 9 can be successfully grown as a houseplant, but it is best kept outdoors in full sun.

20. Azalea

Botanical Name: Rhododendron

A must-have bonsai, Azalea looks incredibly stunning. It is popular for its growth habit and profuse blooms, which come in many different colors, shapes, sizes, and patterns.

Location: Azalea needs a sunny location with afternoon shade to produce beautiful blooms.

21. Guava

Botanical name: Psidium guajava

Not very popular, but the guava tree makes an excellent bonsai and does not require too much care or maintenance. It is even possible to make it produce fruit.

Location: The guava is a tropical plant and should therefore be placed outdoors in a sunny location. If you live in a temperate region, keep your guava bonsai indoors during the winter.

Do you want to turn a guava tree into a bonsai? click here

22. Pine

Botanical name: Pinus

Pine trees make a wonderful bonsai. However, they are not ideal for beginners. Pines are a classic bonsai species, and their rugged, rough bark and trunk make them appear old.

Location: Place the pine outdoors in full sun where it gets good air circulation.

23. Banksia

Botanical name: Banksia

Banksia is another beautiful bonsai that is not deformed or delicate. Plus, the tree gives off a sweet citrus scent every time you ruffle its leaves.

Location: You should place this plant outdoors in full sun as it requires 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

24. Cherry Blossom

Botanical name: Prunus serrulata

Cherry blossom bonsai produce pretty flowers in early spring that fall to the ground and make for a lovely pink backdrop.

Location: Cherry tree bonsai loves partial sunlight as full sunlight can burn the delicate leaves and flowers. Place the tree in a spot that receives morning sun.

25. Chinese Banyan

Botanical name: Ficus malacocarpa

The Chinese Banyan is a unique cross between Ficus Microcarpa ‘Crassifolia’ and Ficus Microcarpa ‘Retusa’. It is one of the best options for bonsai!

Location: The Chinese banyan loves direct, full morning sun but partial sun in the afternoon. Place it outdoors where it will receive shade in the afternoon.

26. Cedar

Botanical name: Cedrus

Cedar trees can grow up to 40-50 feet tall in their natural habitat, but they also make attractive bonsai trees. With unique evergreen traits, the color of the needles varies from silver-blue to bluish-green.

Location: Cedar bonsai trees love lots of full sunlight and need to be grown outdoors where they receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily.

27. Brazilian rain tree

Botanical name: Chloroleucone tortum

The Brazilian rain tree has compound leaves with small green leaflets and delicate branches. It is an exceptional bonsai as the leaves open every morning and fold up every evening.

Position: It loves sunlight, and an east, west, or south window can be an ideal spot for this plant.

28. Jakaranda

Botanical name: Jacaranda mimosifolia

Also called Blue Jacaranda and is an aesthetically beautiful bonsai. It is famous for its long-lasting and striking purple, bell-shaped flowers.

Location: Requires full sunlight for the best buds. Find a spot that gets 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day.

29. Ginseng Ficus

Botanical name: Ficus retusa

Ginseng Ficus is an easy-to-grow bonsai tree with minimal maintenance requirements as it doesn’t need a lot of sunlight, unlike other bonsai varieties.

Position: Likes to grow indoors like a houseplant as it does best in bright and indirect sunlight.

30. Pachira bonsai

Botanical Name: Pachira Aquatica

Pachira bonsai is also called money tree and usually has a braided or twisted trunk. According to Feng Shui, it is also considered a good luck charm.

Location: Place the money tree in a sunny and bright place where the tree can get full sunlight for 5-6 hours every day.

31. Dwarf Jade

Botanical name: Portulacaria afra

This evergreen softwood shrub looks great as a bonsai tree. She is slow growing but makes up for this by being a low maintenance specimen.

Position: It grows well indoors but needs direct sunlight. Dwarf jade cannot withstand freezing temperatures.

Find out the best jade plant varieties here

32. Birch

Botanical name: Betula

Birch bonsai are frost hardy and therefore ideal for your garden. With an elegant shape and flexible hanging branches, it is a stunning bonsai.

Position: She loves full and direct sunlight, so put her in a spot that gets 6-8 hours of sunlight daily.

33. Bald Cypress

Botanical name: Taxodium distichum

The bald cypress is good for extremely wet climates. This deciduous conifer is covered in gray or brown bark with scaly ridges or long fibrous ridges that usually shed in strips.

Location: It needs a lot of sunlight and warmth during the growing season.

34. Pee tree

Botanical name: Cassia fistula

This beautiful tropical tree native to Southeast Asia features yellow flowers that make it a very popular bonsai tree. For best growth, use a well-draining growing medium.

Location: Keep this bonsai in bright and indirect sunlight.

35. Flame of the forest

Botanical name: Delonix Regia

Also known as Royal Poinciana, Flamboyant Tree or Fire Tree, it features large, fiery red or golden flowers that appear from spring through summer.

Location: It prefers direct sunlight. Protect the bonsai tree from cold and wind.

36. Chinese privet

Botanical name: Ligustrum

These small shrubs or trees can be grown in almost any type of soil. With good care, it grows quickly and needs a lot of water in summer.

Location: Choose a sunny location in winter. The perfect area is in front of a window.

37. English Elm

Botanical name: Ulmus Procera

This bonsai tree has oval, pointed leaves and dark grey-brown bark. It can be grown from cuttings and grows rapidly in the first 2-3 years.

Location: Place the plant in full sun in summer and protect from frost in winter.

38. crab apple

Botanical name: Malus spectabilis

When it comes to bonsai, crab apples are among the prettiest! They show white or pink flowers in spring and small fruits in autumn.

Position: It prefers sunlight and ventilation, but also dislikes intense heat, so avoid placing it in a spot that gets afternoon sun.

Get the best crab apple growing guides here

39. Mulberry

Botanical name: Morus Nigra

Mulberries are admired for juvenile shoots and multiple white, green, or light yellow fruits. Bring it indoors when the nighttime temperature drops to 40 degrees.

Location: Keep the bonsai where it will get plenty of bright but indirect light.

40. Oak

Botanical name: Quercus

The Quercus genus makes for a good looking bonsai and oak is the best of them all. They have impressive trunks and a rough, heavily textured bark that looks great with age.

Location: Oak bonsai require full sun. In areas with hot and dry summers, filtered afternoon sun is recommended.

Which bonsai is best for indoors?

There are several tropical and subtropical trees that you can grow indoors. The most common and easiest to care for is the Ficus Bonsai. The ficus tolerates low humidity and is very hardy, making it an excellent choice for beginners.

Other popular indoor bonsai include the dwarf jade, fukien tea (Carmona), Hawaiian umbrella (Schefflera), and sweet plum (Sageretia). If you choose one of these trees and take care of it properly, your indoor bonsai will thrive.

indoor bonsai trees; a Ficus, Carmona and Chinese Elm.

Why can’t I keep temperate, non-tropical bonsai indoors?

As mentioned above, temperate trees require a dormant period during winter. In this dormant period, the annual growth cycle ends and the tree prepares for the next cycle, which will begin again in spring. A tree becomes dormant when temperatures and light levels gradually decrease over several weeks, which doesn’t happen if you keep temperate trees indoors. Tropical and subtropical trees do not need this rest period.

Caring for indoor bonsai trees

Caring for an indoor bonsai differs from caring for normal indoor plants in a pot. The main reason is that bonsai trees are planted in small pots and therefore have a limited ability to store nutrients and water. More importantly, tropical trees are accustomed to receiving plenty of light and high humidity, climates that are difficult to reproduce indoors.

Specific care of indoor bonsai species:

1st light

The main problem with keeping a tropical bonsai tree indoors is that the light intensity is much lower than outdoors. Trees don’t die immediately if they don’t get enough light, but growth slows down and weakens the plant over time. Therefore, it is highly recommended to place your bonsai in a light spot, preferably right in front of a south-facing window when growing bonsai indoors.

Even if you have a south-facing window, the light intensity can still be too low. You can supplement this light deficit with artificial lighting to help your tree. For example, you can use fluorescent lighting with growth-friendly radiation spectra or light-emitting diode lighting for about 10 hours a day. Read more about placement.

2. Moisture

Another problem with keeping a bonsai tree indoors is that the tree needs relatively high humidity, much higher than your home’s conditions, especially with heating or air conditioning. You can increase the humidity around your bonsai tree by placing it on a humidity tray filled with water and misting your tree a few times a day. You can also let the air circulate from the outside by opening a window during the day.

3. Watering and fertilizing

The most important rule is never to routinely water. Ignore the tag on your bonsai tree that says to water every x days. The best course of action is to monitor your tree and its soil and only water when necessary. Please see the Watering and Fertilizing pages for detailed information.

4. Temperature

Tropical tree species require relatively high temperatures all year round, similar to the normal room temperature in your living room.

Subtropical bonsai trees can withstand slightly lower temperatures and generally thrive when enjoying a winter season with temperatures well below normal room temperature.

In summary, make sure you choose the right tree species and follow the specific care guidelines for indoor trees, and your bonsai will thrive!

A few years ago I was given a nice bonsai container and decided to try growing a compact plant to match. I had an old azalea growing in a too small pot which I thought would be perfect for my experiment. Here’s what I learned about bonsai, a living art form!

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I pictured my pretty pink azalea like this

What is bonsai?

Bonsai is considered one of the oldest horticultural pursuits, having its origins in China during the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD).

Many people have a misconception of what bonsai really is. The typical question many people ask is, “Are bonsai their own tree species?”

No, bonsai is a kind of craft or living art form. Techniques such as shallow planting, pruning, defoliation, grafting and root reduction, as well as wiring the trunks and branches into the desired shape, all help create the appearance of a mature tree in miniature.

With proper care, a bonsai can last for centuries, but even a relatively young plant can give the impression of old age. The Lars Anderson Bonsai Collection at the Arnold Arboretum in Boston has some bonsai trees that date back to the 18th century.

The word “bonsai” means a pot (bon) containing a plant or plantings (sai).

Indoor and outdoor bonsai

There are indoor and outdoor bonsai plants. Most bonsai should actually be placed outside, where they are exposed to the four seasons like normal trees. Outdoor plants are made from hardy evergreens or deciduous plants that need a cold dormant period during the winter. They are not meant to be indoors all year round.

These trees grow year round outside near my son’s house in Texas.

Only tropical plants can survive in the indoor climate of your home; they don’t need a cold spell and are more suitable for indoor cultivation. My azalea was not a hardy species and bloomed indoors in late winter, making it perfect for an indoor bonsai. Jade plants are easy to raise as bonsai by pruning and removing new shoots to get the look you want.

You can use flowering and fruit-bearing shrubs, as well as indoor plants.

Can bonsai be made from any plant?

Almost any tree or shrub can be turned into a bonsai. The key is to prune the roots and foliage to keep the plant small (or pruned).

In particular, bonsai are created from perennial woody tree or shrub species that produce true branches and can be cultivated small by pot limitation with crown and root pruning.

Which is the best bonsai tree for beginners?

I will admit that my azalea did not respond well to having its roots severely pruned back and stuffed into this shallow pot and died instantly!

Ficus is probably the easiest to grow for beginners; it is tolerant of the low humidity indoors.

Here is a short list of good motifs for bonsai:

Ficus (many species)

Crassula (jade plant)

Carmona (tea plant)

schefflera

calamondin

sand pear

Bougainvillea

gardenia

rosewood

jasmine

pomegranate

Chinese elm

olive

rosemary

Ancient traditions required you to get back to nature to find your potential bonsai, but these days we can simply head to the local nursery or greenhouse to find a bonsai-worthy plant.

What a wonderful way to enjoy bougainvillea in a small space!

How long does it take to grow a bonsai tree?

Be patient, it may take 4 to 6 months to get a nice look. To avoid breaking a branch, cut the wire to remove it rather than trying to unwrap it from the plant. Caring for bonsai

The shape of your bonsai depends on the material you use. Some plants, like jade, are too soft to shape and instead need pruning to match. After deciding the look you want to achieve, prune branches starting at the base of the tree to expose the trunk. The root mass may need to be reduced to fit in the new container. If the roots are cut back drastically, the top growth will also need to be cut back far. If the roots are re-cut, the plant needs to be kept out of the sun while it recovers. Branches and flexible trunks can be wrapped with wire to shape them into the appropriate shape.

It’s hard to believe that such a striking plant can grow from such a small root ball.

With a root ball this reduced, proper watering is crucial to keep your bonsai growing and healthy.

Feel the earth and water when it feels dry just under the tip.

Water with a hose nozzle until the soil is saturated, or submerge the entire pot in water to the brim.

Be sure to drain the excess water from the newly watered plant, as sitting in a wet saucer can rot the roots.

Fertilize twice a month during active growth – April to September – with a bonsai-specific liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength, reducing to once a month from October to March.

Native to Puerto Rico, this small evergreen shrub is a popular bonsai subject.

Your established bonsai will eventually need to be repotted.

Each time you repot, you will need to cut back the roots.

Shade the plant and stop fertilizing until it recovers to avoid burning newly pruned roots.

Your plant’s appearance will change over time as it matures. You can cut back the growing tips further and even remove some of the leaves to keep them in the shape you want.

Enjoy houseplant projects! See how to create a terrarium garden under glass.

Japanese maple bonsai trees are best known for their unique leaf shape and seasonal changes. Because of their deciduous nature, maples shed their leaves in winter and sprout again in spring.

The success of your bonsai depends on a variety of factors, most notably water and light. Below are some species specific guidelines to follow to ensure your bonsai stays healthy and happy.