Chain Link Fence Sharp Edges? Top 40 Best Answers

All of our chain link fencing fabrics are available in two types of knotted wire.

Knuckle-Barb (KB) has a barb at the top and knuckle at the bottom of the web.

Ankle-Ankle (KK) has an ankle on the top and bottom of the mesh.

What is chain link fabric?

Warp link fabric (also commonly known as wire or chicken wire) is formed by weaving together a series of spirals to create a diamond pattern that comes in a variety of sizes and gauges. The most common is a 2 inch pattern (less than 2 inch diamond size is required for pool fences) using #9 gauge wire. The 2 inch pattern refers to the mesh size, which is the distance between two parallel wires in the fabric. What does wire gauge refer to?

The individual spiral wires that are woven together to form the fabric are made of steel wire, the gauge being the diameter of that wire. The higher the gauge number, the smaller (thinner) the wire diameter. The most common gauges are 6 gauge (.192″), 9 gauge (.148″), 11 gauge (.120″), and 11-1/2 gauge (.113″). 9 gauge is the most common wire size used for both residential and commercial applications. 11 and 11-1/2 gauge are typically used for temporary fencing while the 6 gauge is used in high security applications. What does “selvage” refer to?

How the top and bottom (where the woven wire strands are bent together) of the chain link fabric is finished is called the selvage. The common selvage types are knuckle and barbed (or twisted). Knuckle is rounder and therefore safer, there are no sharp points to catch on clothing or people. Barbed or twisted have sharp ends and are typically used in high security applications. What types of coatings are available for chain link materials?

There are three main types of coatings available – electroplated, spectra and permafused ll. Electroplating is a zinc coating applied to bare steel that is one of the best and most economical solutions for protection against rust and corrosion. All of our galvanized components are hot dip galvanized which is a better bond than a plating. Spectra and Permafused ll are commonly referred to as “Vinyl Coated”. Galvanized materials are coated with colored poly coatings for added protection and a more attractive appearance. Spectra is the most commonly used and is the least expensive vinyl coating. It is polyester powder coated. Permafused ll is a more expensive and thicker polyolefin coating used primarily for commercial applications. Both vinyl coatings are available in green, black and brown. what is the frame

Framework is the tubular (or tubular) steel frame to which chain link fabric is attached. The frame typically consists of three main components – head rail, line post and end post. The chain link fence frame is also galvanized to provide protection against corrosion. We carry two common SCH tube weights. 20 and SCH 40. The schedule (SCH) refers to the wall thickness of the steel pipe. SCH. 20 is most commonly used in residential applications. When referring to the size of the pipe, we measure the outside diameter. Similar to the chain link wire, the frame is available with a vinyl coating. What are fittings?

Several types of hardware are required to assemble a chain link fencing system. There are special fittings that are used for line posts, end posts and with gates. For most residential applications, lighter and more economical die-cast steel or aluminum hardware is used. In commercial and industrial applications, fittings are typically made of cast iron or malleable steel. All our steel fittings are zinc plated. The hardware secures the components of the fence and allows the gate leaves to move and secure in gate applications. For more information, see our chain link fencing components guide below. Vinyl coating hardware is also available for a complete vinyl coating fencing system. Do the posts have to be concreted?

No, it is not necessary for the posts to be set in concrete foundations. We typically recommend driving (or hammering) the posts into the ground to a minimum depth of 4 feet. We use a pneumatic post driver that literally hammers the post through the ground, for do-it-yourself installations you can use a hand held post driver (which we loan). Driving posts into the ground allows for minimal disruption to the naturally compacted ground, preventing lifting and movement. Also, installation is faster and easier, and has the least impact on the surrounding landscape. We recommend sometimes setting the gate and end posts in concrete foundations depending on the application and soil conditions – please check with your vendor if this applies to your installation.

Chain Link Fence Components

There are many parts and pieces that go into a chain link fencing system. Please see the photo below for the most common components. You will also find a wonderful installation manual developed by our main supplier, Master Halco. We stock all of the components listed below if you need everything for a fresh install or just a few hardware for a repair.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR PART FENCE

Chain link fences are a popular option for many homeowners looking for a way to keep their dogs safe and secure. The chain link fence is also used commercially by veterinarians, breeders and kennels to separate and contain dogs for their safety.

There may be a gap along the underside of a chain link fence. Credit: fotocelia/iStock/GettyImages

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There can be a gap along the underside of a chain link fence, especially if the ground is uneven or a dog has been digging. Securing the gap between the ground and the fence can be accomplished with a minimum of materials.

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There are many creative ways to keep a dog in a fenced area if he’s a bit of an escape artist or has a penchant for digging. Fixing the underside of a fence that has been damaged or has come loose from its anchoring system is fairly easy and can be done with minimal effort, tools or supplies.

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Step 1: Locate the Gap Locate the section of fence where there is a gap between the ground and the chain link fence. Note that there can be more than one gap. Step 2: Find where the fence meets the ground. find the gaps Image Credit: fotocelia/iStock/GettyImages Once you’ve found the gap or gaps, move to a point where the fence is still near or in contact with the ground – just before the fence-to-ground gap begins. Step 3: Attach tent pegs Place a tent peg with a hook next to the chain link fence. Make sure the hook is pointing towards the fence. Step 4: Drive stakes into the ground Use a mallet or mallet to drive the stakes into the ground, making sure the hook catches the bottom wire of the chain link. Insert the stake securely into the ground. Step 5: Attach Additional Tent Pegs Position the next stake 20cm from the first and drive it into the ground, the stake’s hook catching the fence. Continue installing tent pegs every 20cm across the gap in this manner until the entire fence is secured to the ground or you are satisfied that the desired sections are secured. Fill in any depressions or holes with gravel to prevent future damage to the area by determined diggers. Sometimes a cunning dog figures out how to sneak through an opening. Here are some alternative ideas to consider without having to repair the entire fence. To prevent injury, nail a piece of plywood or other secure, weatherproof material into the gap. Credit: fotocelia/iStock/GettyImages

Block their way with plywood

With larger dogs, they may not be able to sneak all the way through an opening, but they could get a head or paw through. To avoid injury, nail a piece of plywood or other secure, weatherproof material into the gap.

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Smaller dogs can be great escape artists. Some fence builders have created “puppy post” fences. This is a fence that has closely spaced slats at the bottom where the fence meets the ground. The pickets go permanently into the ground and are part of the fence. This will prevent smaller dogs from escaping through the fence.

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Try a neck pillow

Another idea for small dogs is to get a pillow collar similar to a neck pillow a human might use on an airplane. These collars are commercially available from many different retailers. They come in really cute patterns and sizes for smaller dogs. Just make sure you’re the right size for your pooch to avoid an entirely different problem — pulling out of the pillow collar and leaving him behind.

Finally, if you have a canine escape artist, you may just be out of luck. Some dogs are determined to get around this fence and will do so no matter how much physical reinforcement you put on. A good way to deter dogs that like to escape is to provide your dog with plenty of physical activity and company. A tired dog is usually a really good dog!

Types of fences used in a garden

Close-board/featherboard fencing

This type of garden security fencing is known for being strong and solid. It consists of overlapping vertical wooden planks with spring edges. Spring board fences are most commonly used in backyards. It’s not too expensive (but not the cheapest either) and looks neat and attractive. Typically you would have this type of fence at a height of 6 feet. However, you must check with your local authority to see if there are any fence height restrictions in your area.

larch wood fence

This type of fence is one of the most commonly used budget fences. It consists of horizontal battens and can be used like a closed wooden fence, wooden or concrete posts and gravel boards. Larch wood fences are perhaps the most budget-friendly option for garden security, but they aren’t as sturdy as enclosed picket fences and can be more prone to damage in strong winds.

Wooden palisade / picket fence

This type of fence is usually chosen for its atheistic properties, as it is considered a decorative fence. These types of fences are usually found in front yards as they offer minimal security. Picket fences are traditionally made from wood, however you can get them in a PVC option but these can have some maintenance issues and be more expensive than wood. Because these fences are usually quite low, they are less prone to wind damage.

Picket Fence Panels

These gaps in these panels offer a more modern look, which is great when garden safety isn’t your focus. You can even use them to water different parts of your garden. Thanks to the gaps between the slats, your garden still receives a lot of light. The gaps in the fence mean it’s less affected by strong winds; therefore it needs to be repaired less.

Best type of fence to use in the garden for security

According to Staffordshire Police, your fence must be effective for security reasons;

Back garden fence

Install 6-foot (1.8 m) fences in back gardens. Planning permission is not usually required, but it is always better to check before proceeding.

Install it as close to the ground as possible to prevent an intruder from crawling underneath. Use shorter fence panels on uneven surfaces to achieve this.

Leave horizontal bracing inside and chamfer at 45 degrees. This reduces the possibility for criminals to use it as a climbing aid to get out of your garden.

Fasten the fence panels to the fence posts to prevent lifting. You can use different mounts for this.

Keep your fence or wall in good condition. Old and rotten fences or crumbling walls are not only flimsy, they advertise that the rest of your home may not be as safe as the height.

front yard fence

Low fences at the front of your house help to clearly delineate your property. It can be harder for someone to claim they are on your property by accident.

Before installing a fence or wall, consult your local planning department first.

We recommend that walls or fences in front of your house are no higher than 1m. Higher fences (or tall shrubs) reduce visibility and can be counterproductive.

Safety spikes for garden fences

Although adding safety spikes to your fences and gates is another security measure, they can cause you more trouble than they’re worth as they require planning permission and strict legal requirements.

Are Fence Safety Spikes Legal?

So are fence spikes legal? Yes, but only if you follow the strict rules below. If you want to install fence spikes, you need to make sure you’re doing it within the law, and you may need to obtain planning permission. If you decide to post safety spikes (including broken glass, barbed wire, etc.) on your property lines, you must make this clear by posting a warning sign on the wall.

You need a building permit for the following:

Any fence, gate or wall over 2m high must be accepted. If your new fence or wall borders a public road, you may need planning permission for anything over 1m.

If your property is a listed building or is adjacent to a listed property, you must obtain planning permission before any work is carried out.

You typically don’t need planning permission to grow a thorny plant at the top of your fence unless there are restrictions, so it’s best to check with your municipality beforehand. The same rule applies to a hedge.

Before undertaking any work along the boundaries of your property, you should seek advice from the local planning authority. You don’t want to spend a lot of money to improve your limits only to find out that they are illegal and all your hard work is wasted.

As mentioned above, there are also laws about what you can and cannot do with your fence, wall or gate to protect the safety of others. Brush up on the relevant laws below to ensure your property isn’t a cause for concern.

Highways Act 1980: Section 164 (Harmful Coatings): In short, this section includes barbed wire; Local authorities have the right to issue a notice if the fence interferes with the highway.

Highways Act 1980: Section 154 (Overhanging the Highway): If you have overhanging trees or hedges on your property which obscure streetlights or create a hazard to vehicles or pedestrians, you may be given notice of removal of the hazard within 14 days notification will be delivered.

Occupiers’ Liability Act 1984: “Occupier’s duty to anyone other than his visitors” If your home is broken into and the thief injures your property, you may be responsible for the injury. To avoid this, safety spikes must be visible, so they must not be hidden at the bottom of your wall, and you must post a sign clearly stating that spikes are present. As with security spikes, care should be taken when using anti-vandal paint in case a burglar climbs up and is injured by slipping

The information above does not cover everything you need to know about what you can and cannot do to protect your home borders. So if you need more information it is worth reading the government legislation, link below.

Can I attach barbed wire to my garden fence?

As long as it’s on your property and fence, you can use barbed wire as a deterrent. However, it is strongly discouraged as homeowners have a “duty of care” under the Occupier’s Liability Act 1984 to protect people on their property from foreseeable harm, and yes, that includes intruders and even burglars. In addition, if your property borders a public path, there must be no nuisance to people or animals.

Anti-climbing garden fence security measures

So what can you do to protect your fence from thieves climbing over the top? Take a look at our list below for our top recommendations for improving your fence security, after all, this is the first obstacle a burglar will encounter when attempting to enter your property.

Height: A high garden fence or a high wall deters burglars because they cannot easily climb over them. A 2m fence is recommended as it is higher than most people and is in accordance with the law so you do not need to apply for planning permission

Fence material: A strong garden fence, such as A wooden or brick wall fence, for example, prevents burglars from simply damaging the fence or removing it completely, as they could with a bamboo fence.

Trellis with thorn plants: This method deters burglars for two reasons; If a burglar tried to climb over the trellis, it would likely break under his weight. If you add a thorny climber, it’s more of a deterrent for a burglar, who will be cut if they climb over it. It should be noted that a trellis cannot exceed the 2m height limit, but there are no rules as to how tall the thorny climbers can be as long as they do not pose a potential danger to the public.

Best plants to use as anti-climbing devices on your garden fence

The Metropolitan Police have compiled a list of some of the best bushes to plant to act as a deterrent. This list includes:

creeping juniper; Also known as “Blue Rug,” this plant has a thorny trunk and blue-tinged foliage.

blue spruce; This plant has rigid branches with irregular dense blue and prickly needles.

common holly; large evergreen shrub, dark green spike leaves.

giant rhubarb; This rough foliage can grow up to 2.5 m tall and has leaves on erect stems.

firethorn; This plant has a forbidding thorny stalk, but also blooms with white flowers and bright orange-red berries in summer.

Can you use anti-climb paint on your garden fence?

Yes, as long as the picket fence is yours and within your property lines, you have the right to paint climbing protection on your fence as long as you use it in conjunction with signs that clearly indicate the dangers of climbing. The Crime Prevention website suggests that you don’t post it on fences or walls less than 8 feet (2.4 m) high to avoid covering innocent people with the substance, as it can damage clothing and furnishings.

Read more about garden safety here!

Frequently asked questions about garden fence security

11 steps to install chain link fence

The chain link fence was the most important thing for many homeowners. Not only the cost is quite affordable, but also suitable for DIY enthusiasts. The residential chain link fence can be installed around your yard, swimming pool or garden. If you decided to install the fence yourself, you may make some mistakes. Do not worry about it. Follow our installation instructions, you can avoid them.

Step 1: Preparation before installation

Check all regulations regarding fence setbacks, type and height. Be sure to define the property line. Call 811 to mark utility lines for free. Check all neighborhood agreements for regulations about the fence, such as B. Height and style.

Chain link fence installation sketch. Chain link fence installation sketch.

Step 2: Mark the position of the fence

Locate the line of your property. All posts should be set about 4 inches inside the line. Measure the overall length of your proposed fence to determine the length of the fence fabric and top rail. Mark the exact location of the connector post with a stake or spray paint.

Step 3: Install Terminal Post

Dig the holes for the connector posts (about 8 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep). Bend the sides wider at the bottom than at the top. Mark the baseline on the posts with chalk. The height of the connector post above level ground should be the height of the fabric plus 2 inches. Place the post in the center of the hole, making sure the post is plumb and adjusted to the correct height. Pour concrete around the post. Smooth the surface with a trowel tilted away from the post to allow water to drain. Repeat this process until all terminals are installed.

Step 4: Locate line posts

Run a string between the posts and the string should be positioned on the outside of the posts. Measure the distance between the end posts and calculate the number of line posts and the distance. The distance should not be more than 10 feet.

Step 5: Install line posts

Dig the line post holes – 6″ diameter and 18 to 24″ deep with sloping sides (wider at bottom than at top). The height of the line posts above level ground equals the height of the fabric minus 2 inches. Repeat the Terminal Post installation steps for each Conduction Post.

Step 6: Attach ties and caps to the posts

Push the tensioning straps and tensioning strap with rail ends onto the end posts. The long, flat surface of the tension straps should face the outside of the fence. Use a tension band less than the height of the fence in feet. Add the caps for posts.

Step 7: Install the top rail

Thread the top rail through the loop caps of the line posts. The offset circular side should face the outside of the fence. Continue by squeezing the top rail of the wedge end through the top edges of the line posts. (If a curved headrail is not used, headrail sleeves are used). On the last length carefully cut up to the top rail.

Step 8: Hang up the fence fabric

Unroll chain link fence fabric on the ground along the outside of the fence line from one end post to the next end post. Slide a drawbar through the first row of chain link diamonds. Fasten to the tie rod with straps. Walk along the fabric and place it against the fence frame. Take out the slack as you go. Loosely secure the fabric to the rail with fence ties.

Step 9: Stretching the fabric

Temporarily insert a tension rod about 3 feet into the unattached end of the fabric. Attach the stretcher to the tie rod and the other end to the end post. Stretch the fabric. Remove the tie rod. Adjust the fabric to the exact length. Insert a tension rod into the end of the fabric and attach it to the end post. Cut off the excess wire.

Step 10: Attach Fence Ties

Pin the fabric along the top rail every 24 inches apart. 12 inches apart on each line post. Tighten all nuts on rail end straps and tension straps.

Step 11: Hang the Gate

Secure the gate post hinges about 8 inches from the top and bottom. Attach gate frame hinges to the frame. Hang the gate. Tighten the lower frame hinge screws first, then the upper ones. Place the gate fork at a comfortable height. Tighten all screws securely.

The fence fabric should be stretched from the end post already attached at the far end of the line – or – for runs less than 200 feet.

If the fabric ends at the end post, install a tie rod approximately 5 feet from the end of the unattached fabric. While still lying on the floor, attach a chain link wire rake to the tension bar as shown in the illustration. Place the hook at the end of the cable socket on the center of the wire rake. Unload the cable so that the cable hook is wrapped around the center (height) of the terminal post. You can use one of the tension straps to hold the cable in place. Gently rotate the cable bushing so that you begin to put tension on the cable. As you continue to crank the jack, place the fabric against the post. Pull the bottom of the fabric about 6 inches away from the post to make sure it doesn’t fall over. Note: Temporary ties may be required on windy days and higher fabrics, or the fabric may need to be pulled farther from the fence line. Once the fabric is fully erected and the cable socket is snug but not too tight. From the other end of the fence line, pull the fabric away from the cord socket by lifting, shaking and pulling toward the cord socket. Repeat this every three meters. Keep the cable lifter under tension as you lift and pull the fabric by slowly cranking. Repeat this process as needed to properly tension the fabric. The correct tension is reached when you can just pinch the fabric ¼ inch with one hand. NOTE: Any deformation, irregular bumps in the fabric will remain when the fabric is stretched. To avoid this, make sure the fabric is at the desired height before and during the stretch. It is almost impossible to remove these fully stretched. Once fully stretched, tie the fabric up every ten feet to make sure it doesn’t create a ripple and fall over. Tie the fabric so that half an ankle stays above the top rail. The cable socket is still under tension. At the free end, pull the fabric tightly past the connector post to determine where a wire mesh needs to be removed to tie the fabric into the connector. Remove the tissue. Tie the fabric for a height of 6 inches from the end. While pulling the fabric in line with the tension bands, slide the tension rod through the evenly spaced tension bands and the fabric. After binding, slowly release the tension on the cable socket. Remove the tie rod holding the cable bushing. Note: Use a pul-jak for short stretches of 10 feet or less, or to tie in a longer stretch.

© 2018 The American Fence Company. All rights reserved. Permission to reproduce has been granted for personal and educational use only. Commercial use, duplication or distribution is prohibited without the express written permission of The American Fence Company.

© 2022 The American Fence Company. All rights reserved. Permission to reproduce has been granted for personal and educational use only. Commercial use, duplication or distribution is prohibited without the express written permission of The American Fence Company.

You can install a chain link fence without concrete, but it’s not recommended.

Anchoring each fence post in concrete is the best way to ensure your fence will stand straight and tall for many years to come. It can be tempting to skip the time and expense of setting the pins in cement, but the savings aren’t usually worth it in the long run for a number of reasons.

soil composition

The type of ground you are setting fence posts in will help determine how stable the ground is and how much you can expect the posts to move over time. Much of the North Shore area has clay soil. Clay soil expands and contracts significantly between dry and rainy periods, allowing the stakes to shift and settle differently. Concrete anchors are a must in clay soils.

If you have particularly sandy soil, you can also succeed without concrete. You should use a polymer backing to improve stability and drainage around the post.

Installing a chain link fence with concrete

Whether you use concrete or not, installing a chain link fence itself requires several tools and materials, including fence posts, gates, chain link netting, fasteners, tension rods and wires, post hole digger, drill, hacksaw or pipe cutter, shovel, spirit level, masonry cord, plumb bob, Rubber mallet, socket wrench, pull rod, fence puller, pliers, premixed concrete, gravel and a trowel.

This method usually takes two full days, including the time the cement has to dry overnight.

Install chain link fence without concrete

If you decide to install your chain link fence without concrete, use a post hole digger to drill a hole deep enough to bury the posts at least two feet, or about 1/3 the height. Never drive the posts into the ground, especially if you have hard clay or rocky ground, or you will bend the tops. The hole should be slightly larger than the posts so you can fill it with soil packed tightly around the posts.

Installing your fence without concrete will save you a small amount of money on concrete, trowel, and gravel. You can potentially complete the installation in a day if you use the auger to dig your post holes. If you choose to save the drill bit rental fee (usually around $50 or so) it will take longer as you will have to dig the post holes by hand.

Anchoring fence posts with cement is the most secure

If you just need a temporary fence, concrete anchors aren’t really feasible. In all other cases, anchoring each post is the best way to prevent years of slipping and tilting. Some people suggest just using cement on the end, gate and corner posts, but this method can still allow for a lot of movement so you’ll be resetting the unanchored posts in a few years anyway.

Many homeowners choose to install their own chain link fence, but if you decide the job is too big or you just don’t want the hassle, the professionals at Patriot Fence Crafters can get the job done quickly and efficiently.

About Patriot Fence Crafters

When customers come to Patriot Fence Crafters with their residential or commercial fencing, they can always be assured that they are receiving the highest quality product and service, backed by an established reputation for customer satisfaction. We strive to provide every customer with a pleasant and successful experience at an affordable price. Call us today to learn more about our services and arrange a free estimate!

We proudly offer our complete fencing services throughout the greater Boston area including Georgetown, Beverly, Andover, Danvers, Ipswich, Lynn, Lynnfield, Marblehead, Manchester and nearby Massachusetts.

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Chain link fencing is a common and easy to install type of fencing. Credit: Ablestock.com/AbleStock.com/Getty Images See more photos

Chain link fencing is a versatile and inexpensive way to fence off your property. It is available in various weights or thicknesses that can withstand a variety of uses. Chain link fencing consists of fabric, frames, hardware and gates. The smaller the thickness of a component, the more steel was used in its manufacture and the stronger the material.

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material

The fabric of a chain link fence is the visible barrier material with the diamond-shaped links. It is important to choose a fabric based on its use and the gauge of the wire, the type of coating and the size of the mesh. Zinc is the most common coating, but you can also get fabrics with colored vinyl or polyester coatings. The mesh size can be 2-3/8″, 2-1/4″, or 2″. The smaller the mesh size, the more steel and the stronger the fabric.

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Measuring device

The diameter of the wire indicates the strength. Although a smaller number means a stronger material, sometimes a more flexible mesh is needed, which means greater thickness. Gauge ranges from 13 to 6, but the most common gauges are 11-1/2 to 9. Described as “light commercial duty”, 9 gauge is most commonly used on public and government projects. It’s considered better than the 11-1/2, which isn’t as strong.

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inches in a gauge

The most common measuring devices correspond to certain inch dimensions. A number 6 is .192 inches, while a large 12-1/2 is .099 inches. The number 9 is .148 inches and the 11-1/2 is .113 inches. That makes the difference between the 11-1/2 and 9 gauge .018 inch. The mesh size is between 2 and 2-1/2 inches on the 11 gauge fabric, but about an inch smaller on the 9 gauge fabric. This only indicates the size of the diamonds in the fabric. The smaller and more numerous the diamonds, the stronger the fabric, as in the case of the 9 gauge variant.

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Chain link fence considerations

When choosing the chain link, in addition to the thickness, the height of the mesh and the amount of zinc coating applied to the wire should also be considered. The American Society for Testing Material has designated the standard as A 392-96. The zinc protects the steel from corrosion. The standard is 1/2 inch per square foot coating. Cast-in frames and die-cast hardware are the final fence considerations. These must be chosen to emphasize the tensile strength of the fabric and increase the strength required for the fencing.

Now that you’ve decided to use chain links for your brand new residential or commercial fence, you need to choose the exact chain link fence you want to install – I know you thought the hard part was over! There are different types of materials, grades and types of chain link fencing that you can choose from. Here are some tips for choosing the best chain link fence for you.

wire material 101

There are three types of wire materials that you can typically choose for your chain link fence: galvanized or galvanized, aluminum, and stainless steel.

Galvanized: Galvanized wires are dipped in zinc and then electroplated. Some are galvanized after weaving and others are galvanized beforehand. Most people prefer the former finish, but both types typically last around 12 years with minimal maintenance.

Aluminum: Aluminum wire is inherently resistant to rust or corrosion, adverse weather conditions and wear. Aluminum wire chain link fencing is typically chosen for commercial or public use. These can last up to 25 years with minimal maintenance.

Stainless Steel – Stainless steel wires are the strongest and most durable (but also the most expensive). They don’t fall prey to the problems that other guys can have. Stainless steel chain link fencing is typically found on high-end fencing or barriers at airports, railroads, or the sides of highways.

Additional protection 101

Aside from the durability of the wire material itself, many homeowners and business owners choose to add some protection by adding paint or plastic coating to their chain link fence.

Paint: Paint can add a little more aesthetic appeal to your chain link fence, but can be prone to cracking and chipping over time. The pain usually lasts 3-5 years on a chain link fence before needing reapplication.

Plastic Coating: Plastic coating uses PVC to provide long-lasting protection for your chain link fence without being prone to cracking or peeling. PVC also protects your chain link fence from rusting, scratching or other imperfections.

Wire size and mesh size 101

Finally, you need to select the correct gauge wire and mesh size for your chain link fence. These depend mostly on how much security you need for your property and how much tension you think your fence will be able to withstand. If you need higher security, opt for small mesh sizes and wire gauges. If you want your chain link fence to withstand a lot of tension, also opt for a smaller mesh size and smaller wire gauges.

Let us help you choose the right chain link fence for your home

Ready to have your perfect chain link fence installed around your residential or commercial property? Hercules Fence has extensive experience repairing and constructing fences in any material. Our experienced team can help you meet your fencing needs, whether it’s residential or commercial fencing, at the right price. Call us at 757-316-3600 or visit us online. To see examples of our work and keep in touch, don’t forget to follow us on Facebook, Twitter, Google+, LinkedIn, Flickr and Pinterest.

Are all chain link fences the same?

Chain link consists of four elements: fabric, frame, fittings and gates. How you combine them makes all the difference. Each of these components are available in different weights (gauges) and types of protective coatings. Vendors can mix and match components to save costs or differentiate their product. Our minimum recommendations generally follow the minimum practices defined by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The most common coating is zinc (galvanized), but you can also find chain link components with vinyl or polyester color coatings in addition to zinc. These color treatments enhance landscaping and blend naturally with trees, shrubs, and bushes. They also offer you even more protection against corrosion or rust.

What do I look for in residential chain link fabric?

Choose your chain link fence fabric based on these three criteria: wire size, mesh size and type of protective coating.

Gauge (ga.) or diameter of the wire is one of the most important factors – it helps you tell how much steel is actually in the weave. The smaller the gauge number, the more steel, the higher the quality and the stronger the wire. We recommend using no less than 11 ½ gauge (0.1121″ diameter) wire for residential fencing and 9 gauge (0.1494″ diameter) for commercial fencing. When referring to vinyl coated wire, always refer to the core cross section of the wire and then to the coating. Vinyl coated household wire with an 11 ½ gauge core wire may have a 9 gauge finish depending on the type of vinyl coating. Commercial vinyl coated wire with a 9 gauge core wire can have a 6 gauge to 8 gauge finish depending on the type of vinyl coating. The mesh size indicates how far apart the parallel wires in the mesh are. In other words how big the diamond is from side to side. This is another indication of how much steel is in the product. The smaller the diamond, the more steel there is in the fabric. We recommend no less than 2 3/8 inch mesh for residential use and 2 inch mesh for commercial use. Various mesh sizes are available ranging from 3/8”, 5/8”, ¾”, 1” 1 ¾”, 2”, 2 ¼”, 2 3/8” to 3 ½”. The smaller mesh sizes are typically used in high security applications that prevent people from climbing or being cut. The larger meshes are used in the living area. Core wire coating is critical. There are three types of core wire coatings. Hot Dip Galvanized – Galvanized after weaving. GAW wire is first woven and then dipped in a cauldron of hot molten zinc. The speed at which it is dipped and removed determines the weight of the coating. GAW coating is available in 1.2 ounces of coating per square foot or 2 ounces of coating per square foot. This coating process tends to leave icicles and nubs from the dripping zinc. Galvanized before weaving. GBW wire electroplates the wire before weaving. This coating process has improved over the years and provides a smooth, consistent and reliable coating. It is also available in 1.2 and 2 oz. GBW is popular in backyards and athletic applications because of its smooth finish. An aluminized coating is applied prior to weaving, giving the core wire a matte aluminum finish. Its soft metal properties provide an excellent coating suitable for highly acidic environments. Vinyl coating over finished core wire. According to ASTM 668, a vinyl coated chain link is specified and ordered followed by the metallic core wire with the specified coating. Class 1 extruded. Your residential chain link is typically Class 1 “off-spec extruded” wire, meaning the vinyl coating is simply slipped over the wire like a sock over your foot. This wire is not generally shown as it is thicker than the higher quality materials. Of course, it’s thicker because it’s not connected to the chain link and can easily tear or peel off. Class 2A extruded and glued. The second type of wire is the “Class 2A Extruded and Bonded” wire. This wire can come in a few specifications and is generally used in commercial applications. The vinyl coating is thinner than the Class 1 “extruded” wire. However, the extruded and bonded wire is bonded to the wire with an intense adhesive, making it less likely to detach from the core wire or snap. Class 2B merged and connected. The third wire grade is “Class 2b thermally fused and bonded”. This class of wire is most commonly used by architects, engineers, city, state and federal agencies. It has the thinnest coating yet is resistant to cracking, peeling and tearing. The vinyl coating is literally fused and bonded to the steel as if two pieces of steel were welded together. This is the superior product.

American Fence Company is Omaha’s premier residential fencing contractor.

How do I choose my residential fence scaffold?

Start with the gauge and the outside diameter. Below is a helpful chart to use when choosing your fence frame. “End post” is a generic term for end, corner and goal posts. Goal posts vary depending on the size of the goal.

Application Light Duty Medium Duty Heavy Duty 3′-4′ high Toprail 1-3/8” 17 ga. 1-3/8” 16ga. 1-3/8” 15ga. Line Post 1-5/8” 17 ga. 1-5/8” 16ga. 1-5/8” 15ga. Terminals 1-7/8” 17ga. 1-7/8” 16ga. 1-7/8” 15ga. 5′-6′ tall Toprail 1-3/8″ 17ga. 1-3/8” 16ga. 1-5/8” 15ga. Line Post 1-7/8” 17ga. 1-7/8” 16ga. 1-7/8″ 15ga. Terminals 2-3/8″ 17ga 2-3/8″ 16ga. 2-3/8″ 15ga.

How do I choose my commercial fence scaffolding?

Fortunately, the American Society of Testing and Materials, ASTM, has effectively addressed this issue by helping customers choose materials ranging from light commercial to industrial grade. Under ASTM 1043; You can simply choose your table or material quality. Each class specifies the diameter and wall thickness of hose and pipe for the application and height.

American Fence Company, now serving Grand Island, Nebraska; Omaha, Nebraska; Lincoln, Nebraska; Sioux City, Iowa; Cedar Rapids, Iowa; Iowa City, Iowa; Des Moines, Iowa; Kansas; Sioux Falls, South Dakota; and Rochester, Minnesota. In Madison, WI and Salina, Wichita and Kansas City, Kansas we operate as AmeriFence Corporation. We are one of the nation’s top ten contractors for commercial and residential fencing.

Chain link fences serve as a secure garden boundary, but they have a common weak point. The underside of a chain link fence can be vulnerable to dogs, rabbits, cats, and other critters in the neighborhood. To combat this problem, you can secure the bottom of a chain link fence using some of the options below.

Install a bottom rail

The most obvious solution to securing a chain link fence is to install a bottom rail, just like on the top of the fence. However, this does not work for all circumstances. If the fence is on a steep slope, adding a bottom railing can be a trick. The bottom rail may also leave a small gap near the floor depending on how it’s attached. We can evaluate your options during your chain link fencing quote to determine if a bottom rail is right for you.

Use guy wire to secure the bottom of the fence

A tension wire can prevent animals from pulling up the chain link fence below. This can be installed during the construction of the chain link fence or installed later. The wires are attached to the posts but are not woven into the chain link fabric. Think of this as a thin bar behind the chain link that provides just enough support to keep animals at bay.

Add chain link fence posts at the bottom

Another way to secure the bottom of a chain link fence is to add posts. There are many types of chain link stakes, but they all work the same. The stakes wrap around part of the chain link fabric and are driven directly into the ground. This bridges the gap between the fence and the ground and stabilizes the bottom of the fence. Some homeowners add chicken wire to the base for an extra barricade.

Put a guard on the bottom of your chain link fence

Chain link fencing is designed to cover the pointed edges of the chain link fabric. This makes it more difficult for animals to grab and pry part of the fence. It also creates a clean edge at the bottom that appeals to many homeowners.

Installing a chain link guard is fairly easy, and there are a variety of colors to choose from. This option doesn’t offer as much stability as guard rails or guy wires, but works well in certain situations.

Get a secure chain link fence from All Around Fence

If you are concerned about chain link fencing safety, let us design a custom fence to meet your needs. We consider your budget, goals, property restrictions, and other factors to create the perfect fence design. Contact All Around Fence at (443) 838-9374 to arrange a free estimate for the fence. We serve the greater Baltimore area, including Howard County, Baltimore County and Anne Arundel County.

Tie-down bridges must be installed at each fence corner and at no more than 50 m (160 ft) intervals along the fence. If bare overhead lines cross the fence, equipotential bonding bridges must be installed on each side of the crossing. Gates must be connected to the gate support post and each gate support post must be connected to the grounding electrode system. Any gate or other opening in the fence must be connected to a buried tie bridge across the opening. The grounding grid or grounding electrode systems must be extended to cover the swing range of all gates. The strands of barbed wire above the fence are to be connected to the grounding electrode system.

Alternate constructions, executed under engineering supervision, are acceptable for grounding or bonding metal fences.

Information note #1: A non-conductive fence or section can provide isolation for the transmission of voltage to other areas.

Information note #2: Refer to IEEE 80-2013, IEEE Guide for Safety In AC Substation Grounding, for fence grounding design and installation

When metal fences are within 5 m (16 ft) of exposed electrical conductors or equipment, the fence must be jumpered to the grounding electrode system as follows:

Chain link fence installation guide

Shop: chain link fence | fence tools

Read more: How to Install Chain Link Fence (PDF) | Chain Link Installation Tutorial (PDF) | Overview of the chain link fencing system

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Before you start:

Step 1 – Obtain the necessary zoning and building permits. There may be local zoning or deed restrictions on the height and type of fence and/or gate. Find out about property line requirements. Find survey needles if you want the fence to be near property lines, or have the property surveyed.

Step 2 – Measure the fence material and locate the placement of the gate.

Step 3 – Call 811 before you dig. Notify your local or state utility protection service to locate potential underground utilities. There is usually no cost to locating utilities, but there can be a hefty charge to repair buried utilities, not to mention possible personal injury.

Step 4 – Shop your chain link fence at HooverFence.com.

Tools needed for installation:

Unpacking and checking the fence shipment:

Prepare for the delivery of your HooverFence.com fence. Chain link fence orders can arrive on small and large trucks, covered trailers and picket fence trucks. Forklifts are not usually required, but be prepared to unload fence tubing, chain link reels, sacks and crates of chain link fittings by hand. First, we recommend that you carefully unpack and inspect your shipment to ensure you have all of your materials. Make sure you go through and read all of the instructions at this point. While installing the fence is relatively easy, this online guide should take all the guesswork out. If you have any questions or problems installing the fence, please give us a call. Read more: Shipping Policy.

Set Fence Lines:

You determine the future fence line by using the stakes and string to stake out the area to be fenced.

Step 1 – Drive the stakes a foot or two away from where you want to place the Corner and End Posts; This allows you to drill/dig holes without obstacles. It can also allow you to “drop” the cord when digging holes for fence posts. Be careful not to bump or dislodge the stakes. If you remove the tendon to dig holes, be sure to stretch the tendon back to how it was before you removed it.

Step 2 – Tightly stretch the masonry leader between these posts. This cord represents the position of the fence and serves as a guide when setting posts. Posts are cast in concrete or driven 1/8-1/4″ from the stringline.

Step 3 – Intermediate posts may be required for longer fence sections. Be sure to pull the string taut, as a string that sags or moves with the wind will cause the posts to be misadjusted. Remember that the fence can only be as straight as the leader line.

Step 4 – First locate the goal posts and mark their position with reversed post hole marker paint. Next, measure each fence section. Chain link fence posts are usually spaced a maximum of ten feet apart. Space the posts evenly for aesthetic reasons, but no more than ten feet between posts. If you plan to install privacy blinds or other materials that will increase wind loads, consider using 8-foot or 6-foot post spacing. Also consider the scaffolding, i. H. Posts and railings, upgrade to a larger diameter and thicker wall thickness. Heavier chain link frames such as HF20 and/or HF40 are an excellent choice for use with chain link fencing with aluminum diagonal or PVC privacy battens or privacy screens.

marker color

post location

Creating square corners using the 3-4-5 method:

Step 1 – Pull the string along the two adjacent sides as shown in the drawing. Step 2 – Measure and mark 3′ down on a line. Step 3 – Measure and mark 4′ down on the other line. Step 4 – Measure diagonally between the two marks and adjust the lines to measure 5′. Note: For greater accuracy, use measurements in multiples of 3-4-5, such as e.g. 6-8-10 etc.

Setting up posts:

Typical post layout

Correct the shape of the post hole

Step 1 – Post hole sizes may vary depending on geographic location, fence height, and fence materials used. Generally for residential chain link fences, dig holes 6 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep (or below the frost line in your area). Another rule of thumb is to dig the holes three times the diameter of the post, i.e. a 2″ diameter post would require a 6″ diameter hole, and one third the height of the fence that is above ground, stick in the ground. Typically, goalpost holes are dug larger in diameter and deeper to withstand the added stress of a moving goal. The guide string can be temporarily removed prior to excavation to prevent cutting. Be sure to replace it as it was originally stretched.

Holes for chain link fence posts can be dug by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars, small gas powered augers, or skid steer loaders with hydraulic augers. Size your auger bit according to the height and nature of the fencing material to be installed.

If you need to place a fence post near an existing structure, drilling close to the structure is still better than digging by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars from scratch. Here a hole was drilled as securely as possible to the existing fence. The hole is hand dug or “shaved” to allow it to sit closer to the existing fence.

Holes next to buildings often have to be dug by hand. Be careful as drain pipes and other utility lines may be near foundations.

Some obstacles like the above can be difficult to handle. In this case, a post can be bent to miss the pipe. First measure the depth of the bend.

Notice how the post stays firmly attached to the house, but is still dug into the depth with an adequate foot of concrete.

Step 2 – Re-tighten the guide line and check the holes visually and/or by placing a post in the hole and plumbing in all directions for accuracy. If the hole needs to be “shaved” or moved, do it now. If the holes are shallow because you hit an object you can’t remove, “bell” the hole below. To “bell” a hole, use a post hole digger and/or spud bar to make the bottom of the hole larger than the top. This further anchors the concrete foot that supports your fence. ‘Belling’ compensates for holes up to 18 inches deep. If necessary, move the hole slightly to avoid obstacles. This changes your post spacing. In the case of line piles, however, this is not harmful. If you need to move more than a few feet, consider installing an additional post in the center of the extended space. Other ways to deal with obstacles include bending posts underground and welding plates to posts to attach them to large rocks.

Check the hole position before filling with concrete mix. The hole should not be perfectly centered under the string; It should be slightly offset to center the post in the concrete base. If necessary, insert the post into the empty hole and check the plumb with a spirit level. The post should be spaced about 1/8-1/4″. If not, the fence post hole will need to be “shaved”.

After the holes for the fence posts have been dug and cleaned, check that each hole is in the correct location. If you can’t see it visually, place the post in the hole and plumb the post. The post must be perpendicular and placed 1/8″-1/4″ from the leader. Fence Tip: Be sure to dig fence post holes the correct depth and diameter for your area. Northern regions have deeper frost depths than the southern part of the country. 30-36″ deep concrete feet will suffice for most fence installations.

Step 3 – Mix concrete with water using a pre-mixed bag. Just walk on the water. The mixture should look like thick gray mud, not mom’s watered-down chili. If it doesn’t pile up on the scoop, it’s too thin; add more mixture to dry it. When mixing from scratch using aggregate such as gravel, limestone or shell, concrete sand and Portland cement, mix 3 to 4 parts (shovels) aggregate to 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

Smaller fencing projects are often erected with pre-mixed bagged concrete. Often sold in hardware stores, 40, 60, and 80 pound bags are usually readily available for your fencing project. Calculate your concrete requirements for fence posts using HooverFence.com’s Concrete Calculator.

Premixed bags of concrete can be mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow with a shovel, or with a gas-powered or electric-powered cement mixer. Mix concrete to a “thick milkshake”-like consistency. Don’t mix too wet or the soupy texture will cause the posts to sink or the concrete won’t set at all.

For small chain link fencing where the job can be set and stretched in the same day, using a small amount of Quik Rok or another brand of quick setting hydraulic cement with regular premixed cement can save time and an extra trip to the job site.

Quik Rok Rapid Setting Hydraulic Cement is available in 5 gallon pails and is a powder-like material that can be used alone for small holes (coring cement). You can also mix about a scoopful of this baking-flour-like material with a wheelbarrow full of regular cement. Fence Tip: Some fence specification work requires concrete feet to be poured to the top, capped and spackled. Use a pointed trowel for a better look.

Step 4 – Mark the postgrade mark. End, corner and gate posts should be marked at the height of the fence plus 1 inch; 49 inches for a 4-foot fence, 61 inches for a 5-foot fence, etc. Mark intermediate or line posts at the height of the fence minus 3 inches; 45″ for 4′ fence, 57″ for 5′ fence etc. If you add your post cap and top rail the height will be accurate. Height markings represent the bottom of the fence and are essential for setting posts at the correct depth. If you bury the post that hides the height marker by 1 inch you will need to dig a trench to bury the fence here. If your height mark is 3 inches off the ground, your fence will be 3 inches off the ground and you’d better plan this and trim it later or fill it under the fence if a tight fit is required.

For chain link fencing, line posts (intermediate posts) should be marked with a height marker that is 3″ less than the height of the fence to be installed. This is where a 6 foot high fence will be installed. Line posts are marked at 5′-9″. . Fence Tip: Vinyl coated wire mesh is more resilient than galvanized mesh and may “shrink” slightly when stretched. Subtract an additional 1/2 inch if setting posts for a vinyl-covered fabric fence.

With chain link fences, end posts, i. H. End Posts, Corner Posts and Gate Posts, marked 1″ more than the height of the fence to be installed. For a 6 foot chain link fence, mark the posts at 6 feet to 1 inch. . Fence Tip: After setting, place a spare piece of tubing or a post that has not yet been set on top of the gate post and align these posts. Gates are usually perfectly square.

Step 5 – Fill holes with wet cement. Don’t fill too many and risk the concrete setting before you can “glue” your posts. Don’t fill the holes with concrete to the brim, leave the concrete 3-4″. Filling the hole completely with cement is a common mistake. When this is done, water will collect under that “lip” of concrete. When it freezes, the ground literally presses down on the concrete base and “lifts” the post up, much like squeezing a tube of toothpaste.

Once the fence post holes have been dug and cleaned (making sure to clear the post holes of loose dirt and debris), shovel cement into the holes until they are almost full. Drop the cement from the soil surface (degrees) about 3″. Holes should also be larger in diameter at the bottom than at the top, “bell-shaped”. Holes shaped like a carrot can lift prematurely.

Fence post holes can be filled virtually as fast as the batches of cement can be mixed and poured. Often another person can follow the person filling in the holes and “stick” the fence posts. To “stick” fence posts is simply to push the posts into a hole that has already been filled with cement, plumb and close to the stringline.

Fill post holes with concrete mix. Don’t fill holes completely. This can cause posts to lift prematurely.

Step 6 – Glue the post. Most chain link posts can be installed by first pouring the cement into the hole and then “sticking” the post into the wet cement. Simply slide the post into the cement mix in the center of the hole. Place the binding posts as close to the string as possible without touching the string. Setline posts approximately 1/8″-1/4″ off-string. This will account for the differences in fence post diameters. Another way to set posts is for one person to hold the post perpendicular to the plumb line while another shovels concrete mix around the post. The first method outlined is actually simpler, a more efficient method of setting fence posts and ensuring that there is concrete around, under and within the post.

Chain link fence posts should be “taped down” to their respective height markings and anchored with leader cords. Fill in loose dirt and gently step on the dirt surrounding the posts to help hold them up too high. If posts are sinking on you, the concrete is too wet or holes have filled with water.

You can and should put your posts in their holes and check them up to the string line with a spirit level if you are unsure if the post holes were dug in the right place. It can be very frustrating when holes are not checked for accuracy and then filled with cement. You’ll find that you’re trying to stick posts in the dirt surrounding the dug hole, but they’re buried in cement. When this happens, pull the post, re-dig the hole, and try to catch up with your crew!

On sloping terrain it is sometimes necessary to intentionally set posts high with the height markings exposed. The chain link height is actually higher when measured diagonally. When in doubt, measure the square with the bias to estimate the finished height of the fabric. Chain link is remarkably versatile and can be installed on any terrain. Fence tip: If in doubt, leave the post high and cut it off later. This is a lot easier than trying to increase the height of a chain link fence post!

After the chain link fence posts have been “clamped” in place, check that the cement level is correct. If the concrete level is too low, you should pour more cement. Fence Tip: Avoid pushing away your leader line to fill holes with cement when someone else is using it to ‘glue’ posts!

Set the posts to the depth of the grading mark first. Be sure to place fence posts close to buildings where animal containment is important.

Step 7 – After setting each post for the slope, backfill with soil and step on the backfill to hold the post level. Repeat for all posts in that fence length.

After “pogging” the post into the hole with concrete mix, fill it up with loose dirt. Lower the post while stepping on dirt around the post. This will help keep the post vertical in the hole.

Step 8 – View Post. To “see” inside posts, stand at the end of the fence and look over the tops of the posts. Adjust the height of the posts as needed to accommodate gradual pitches and changes in grade. The goal is to have smooth transitions between posts and avoid sharp changes. This is easiest to do with two people: one person sights the post while the other aligns and checks the post plummet. Be sure to check each post plumb after adjusting and observe the grading mark as noted above.

Once the posts are level, look over the tops of the erected posts and raise or lower them slightly to level the top of the fence. Remember, if you bury your grade mark slightly on one or more posts, plan to dig the same amount for the chain link fabric. The grade marks represent the bottom of the chain link fence. If your grade mark is 4 inches off the ground, that is your fence and you can fill in underneath.

Note: Although most fences are simply installed to be level or flow with the contour of the terrain, some applications are better off being perfectly level, e.g. If excavation, grading or asphalt/concrete is to be poured later or is already in place, the fence may need to be installed perfectly level. If this is the case, sifting with grade marks, using a plumb line with a spirit level, or a crossbar helps immensely.

Step 9 – Install gate posts with the exact opening size as recommended by the gate supplier or manufacturer. The opening dimension is the distance between the two goal posts from the inside to the inside. If possible, level the tops of the goalposts by placing a post over the tops of the posts and checking with a spirit level. If the ground below the goal drops sharply, level the goal posts. It won’t look right to level them.

Step 10 – Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding with work.

Installation of post fittings:

Typical diagram for attaching terminal posts

View of the bottom support strap for the bottom wire and four tension straps for a 5 foot high chain link fence. View is from the inside of the fence. Note that the straps are offset so that the flat side faces out.

End post with tightening strap screwed to rail end cap. All nuts face the inside of the chain link fence casing.

Combo rail end caps (with holes in them for truss rods) can be used for the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail to connect the fence rail to the end posts.

Proper installation of rail end caps and strut tape for a chain link fence corner post. Note that one is facing up and the other is facing down. This means that the upper rail can also remain at such an intersection.

A chain link turnbuckle with nut and bolt and 5 turnbuckles are used for a 6 foot high chain link fence.

Here barbed wire arms are used as loop caps for a 6ft high plus 1ft barbed wire link fence.

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

Step 1 – Attach Tie Down Straps to End and Corner Posts.

Step 2 – Number of straps per hanger = fence height minus one; at least three. For example, a 4 foot high chain link fence requires three tension straps per post.

Step 3 – A hook-up is any connection of a chain link to an end or corner post. End posts have a connector; Corner posts have two connectors.

Step 4 – First attach a support strap that will be used when installing the lower guy wire. This fitting requires a standard 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ fence bolt and nut. Install the nut and bolt loosely.

Step 5 – Next, install tension straps. The straps are offset. The offset (flat side) faces out, the same side that the chain link webbing will be installed on. This is usually the outside of the enclosed area. Do not attach nuts and bolts to these.

Step 6 – Place one support band per hook-up over the tension bands. This attachment requires a rail end cap, bolt and nut. This tape and cup will be used for the top rail. Tighten with ratchet and nut.

Step 7 – The rail end cap is also relocated. This offset can be up or down on an end post. Regardless of whether you position the cup up or down, stay consistent. Since two sets of strut straps and rail end caps must share the same space at a corner, the bottom rail end cap must be moved up and the bottom rail end cap moved down. This allows the two cups to be level with each other, allowing your top rail to insert into the cups and be level with each other.

Step 8 – Usually all the nuts are kept on the inside of the fence; This prevents someone from outside from easily removing the nuts. For high security applications, the threads on the bolt can be “hammered” to prevent easy removal. To do this, use a hammer and chisel, twisting the threads on the bolt so that the nut cannot be removed.

Step 9 – Place the Post Caps onto the Posts. The end and corner post caps are simple. There is only one way to install them. The loop caps, as they are called, are offset if you look closely. The offset side faces the outside of the case; The same side as the chain link is installed. Chain link loop caps are available in aluminum or pressed steel with an electroplated finish. If barbed wire is to be installed, substitute barbed wire in place of the standard chain link fence loop caps. Chain Link 3 Wire Barbarms are available in 45 Degree Barbarm, Straight Vertical Barbarm and Adjustable Barbarm. We also stock a 6 core barbarm.

Fence Tip: You can pre-squeeze ribbons after they’ve been slid onto posts. This is essentially done by clamping tensioning straps and tensioning straps together with fence pliers. Make sure the screw holes stay aligned as you press the straps shut. Later, when you connect the chain link pulley to the end posts, you’ll be thankful that the straps were pre-compressed, as you can now put your 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nut and bolt through and thread the fence nut much easier one.

Installing the top/bottom rail:

Typical top rail assembly diagram

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

The offset of the loop cap faces outwards. This will help keep the frame flush with the fabric side of the chain link fence.

The top rail sits on top of the line posts and runs to the end posts.

1-3/8″ and 1-5/8″, popular top rail sizes, are available with curved or plain ends. Plain End Top Rail requires sleeves as shown above.

Chain link fence top rail with plain ends requires top rail sleeves. The heavy industrial top rail HF40 is only available with plain ends.

The HF20 top rail and lighter are available with a beveled end, no sleeve required.

A hacksaw, chop saw, saw tooth, pipe cutter, or portable band saw is used to cut the top rail.

Chain link fence with finished top rail. After the frame, the chain link fabric can be stretched.

Step 1 – Slide the top rail through a couple of loop caps and the butt end firmly into the rail end cap. If necessary, adjust the height of the rail end cap. Tighten rail end cap firmly.

Step 2 – Some top rails have a “bent” end that tapers down to fit another piece of rail. Fit the unkeyed end into the rail end cap on the end or corner post.

Step 3 – Add rail sections by sliding each unupset end into an upset end. Be sure to slide the rails toward your starting point to “seat” them fully into each other. Press hard. If the top rail doesn’t have a beveled end, you’ll need a “sleeve” to act as a coupler.

Step 4 – Add an additional top rail until you reach the next end post i.e. H. End, corner, goal posts.

Step 5 – Cut off excess rail with hacksaw or pipe cutter. Carefully mark the separation point so the rail fits snugly into the rail end cap. Any slack in your entire length of track will allow the chain link, when taut, to pull the end posts towards each other. Tip: Each piece of track should be supported by two posts. Do not cut the rail so that there is a seam between the last line post and the end post. This point is weak and tends to sag.

Step 6 – Install the top rail in all fence sections. At this point, visually check the height of the line posts once the top rail is installed. If a post is too tall, remove the rail and trim as needed.

Fence Tip: If a post is 1/4″ too short, you can also cut a piece of tubing the same diameter as the conduit post and slip it under the loop cap.

NOTE: Industrial construction sites occasionally substitute a top guy wire in place of the top rail to reduce costs. If this is the case, you will need to brace and guy the end posts. Read more: How to brace and tie chain link fencing.

Install guy wire:

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4

Guy wire can be installed at the top and/or bottom of a chain link fence. The top tension wire helps reduce costs when used in place of the top rail. The bottom wire helps deter animals from digging and pushing out the underside of the fabric. It is often used with vinyl coated chain links as they tend to be more elastic. When tensioned, both types of wire are attached to the chain link with hog rings. It is easiest to install if one person holds the coil of wire upright while the other “leads” the loose end to the other end of the fence. The next step is to secure the loose end to the connector post with a tie wrap and nut and bolt. The loose end is fed through the stud and wrapped around the wire itself (Figs. 1 & 2). The lower tension wire is installed on the same side of the posts as the chain link fabric (Fig. 4). Once the chain link is stretched, the lower tension wire is “pinched” between the line/intermediate posts and the chain link fabric (Fig 10). When used as a top wire, thread the guy wire through the loop caps and connect to each connector post.

Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8

Guy wire is most commonly stretched with a come-a-long and wire grip. Do not wrap the Come-a-long cord around the post (Fig. 5). This repeated action will result in the cable becoming frayed and destroyed. Instead, a “sling” of rope or cable can be made to wrap around the expansion post (Fig. 6). Unthread and pull out 6-10 feet of cable from the carriage. The length of the cable to be pulled out depends on the length of the tension wire. Hook a cable puller to the ratchet end of the Come-A-Long. Fasten the tensioning wire to the cable (Fig. 7). Rotate the Come-a-long handle until the tension wire is taut (Figs. 7 & 9). Do not overtighten, otherwise damage or injury may result.

Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 12

With the Come-A-Long cranked tight, bend the guy wire where it would loop into the nut and bolt. Next, cut 6-8 inches past that bend with bolt cutters. Be careful as both ends of the wire can ‘whip’ from the tension and be dangerous. Fish the looped end of the wire through the nut and bolt and wrap as before. Unlock long wire, repeat process for other fence runs. Note: Short lengths, approximately 12′ and less, are difficult to make with a long wire. These are often simply made by hand. The tension wire, of course, has crimps in it. With the use of pliers in their open position, these crimps can be crimped further, making the wire tighter (Fig. 8). Be sure to crimp the entire length for a consistent look.

Figure 13 Figure 14 Figure 15 Figure 16

Once the guy wire is installed, the chain link fabric can be stretched. The chain link is installed to end posts with tension rods, tension straps and nuts and bolts. Often one end is installed with the roller upright for convenience (Fig. 14). The roll can then be laid flat on the floor and rolled to the other end. Additional rolls can easily be added and weaving is done easily on the flat ground. The chain link is stretched for longer distances (20 feet or more) with an extension and spreader bar. For shorter distances (20 feet or less) a pul-jak is used (Fig. 15). Because tension bands are installed equidistant from each other, typically the lower brace band that holds the tension wire can be adjusted so that the tension wire is centered on the lower diamond of the fabric. The top rail, line posts are tied last. Hog rings are installed to secure the guy wire to the chain link fabric using hog ring pliers.

Stretching Chain Link Fabric:

Hang the chain link fence from one end post and unroll it to the other end. It is best to lay out chain link rollers flat for longer distances.

Tension the chain link fence using a turnbuckle, a cross-country skid, and a turnbuckle.

For longer stretches of fence, you have to step up.

A Pul-Jak is the ideal tool for short sections of fence. Remove a fabric to “cut” the fabric to the correct length.

Secure straps with 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nuts and bolts. Adjust the height before tightening. Inside view of the fence: Note that the flat side of the tension strap is facing out, the nut is on the inside.

Adjust the height carefully before tightening the nuts and bolts.

Make sure the top chain link is centered on the bar before tying.

The finished chain link fence.

Step 1 – Start at one end of a fence line and roll the chain link on the outside of the fenced area or side you previously selected.

Step 2 – Unroll another roll if more is needed to reach the next end post. The chain link is stretched in a continuous length of woven chain link from end post to end post.

Step 3 – “Weave” chain link rolls up. This can be a little tricky if you’ve never done it before and requires some explanation.

Each weave is continuous from top to bottom along the vertical or height of the roll. If you follow the strand, starting at the top, you will see that it zigzags back and forth downwards. It begins and ends with either a “knuckled” or a “twisted” ending.

To remove a tissue, straighten the end of the tissue knuckle. Unbend the adjacent tissue tied to it. If it has a twisted end, simply twist the two weaves until they can be separated.

Follow the weave to the other end as it zigzags back and forth and loosen or untie the opposite end. Be sure you follow carefully so that you undo the correct weave.

Twist the webbing at the top or bottom of the fence counterclockwise as if trying to unscrew it from the roll. Most newly manufactured links rotate counter-clockwise, while some links manufactured years ago rotate clockwise. Keep twisting and you will see the other end detach from the adjacent ties. If you’re having trouble, you may have separated the wrong tissues on the other end. Also check to see if you’ve straightened the other end or if it’s snagging when you try to twist it. Another problem that can arise is that the chain link is too tight; relax a little.

The process of weaving two rolls together is exactly the opposite, except that it can be difficult to get started. It is easiest to weave two rolls together when they are lying flat on the ground, but rolls can also be woven together in an upright position.

Begin weaving: links of chain form squares, or “diamonds” as they are commonly called. You must join two sections or rolls together before you start weaving so that one roll has a full diamond and the other roll has a half diamond. This game is located at the top and bottom of the reels. Adding a weave will end up with a full diamond and two ends that you can knuckle or twist.

Many spools of chain link have a loose wire in the spool. Use this to join two reels together or remove a wire from one of the reels to splice with. Twist the single weave into the first full diamond. Spin it through the next full diamond on the other reel. Continue twisting, making sure the weave end goes through each full diamond on each pulley with each twist.

If you are having trouble, it may be due to one or more of the following reasons: your chain link is too tight; loosen up a bit. You missed a diamond somewhere; unravel and try again. Last. You may have mismatched reels made by different manufacturers or the reels have different mesh sizes. Count the number of full diamonds in each roll, they should match in number and size.

After successfully weaving the two rolls together, twist or knot the ends back together. If you don’t have a backing fabric to attach, you started with either two half diamonds on each roll or two full diamonds on each roll. Take it apart and try again. Sometimes you need to flip a roll (most have a half diamond on one end and a full diamond on the other) or remove a fabric from a roll to create an initial half or full diamond.

Step 4 – After unrolling the chain link and weaving the rollers together, connect one end. Distribute the straps evenly as shown above (Fig. F51). Make sure the nuts are on the inside of the fence so they can’t be removed from outside the enclosure.

If you have a strong slope approaching an end post, the fabric will need to be trimmed at the end. This is called a bevel cut. Read more: How to preload chain links.

Step 5 – Hand tighten the chain link to the other end. You can stand the chain link up and lean against the posts, or leave it on the floor and lean it up while you stretch the fabric later. In general, the later is lighter and better over long distances.

Step 6 – Connect the stretching tools as shown on the inside of the fence (Fig. F51). Slide a tie rod 10-12′ vertically into chain link webbing; Hook the stretch bar inside.

Step 7 – Make sure the hook for the extension is pointing away from the fabric or it may get caught in the diamonds.

Step 8 – Slowly tighten the Come-A-Long. Make sure the fabric does not catch on posts, tree roots, or other obstacles.

Step 9 – Pull on the fabric as you tighten it. During “dressing” the fabric diamonds are straightened so that they run smoothly. This is important for heavier fabrics. Some points will be higher than others as you look up. Lift the fabric at the lower points. This must be done before the fabric becomes too tight. Once set, little can be done to flatten the fabric. Some fabrics dress easily, some don’t. If the fabric doesn’t tighten properly, you can always untie the Come-A-Long and try again. Check the top and bottom diamonds for wires that may not be shaped correctly. Lift and shake the fabric to ensure even tension across the entire roll(s).

Step 10 – The fabric is stretched enough when you can’t pinch the diamonds together with one hand. Do not overstretch, otherwise damage will occur. The top of the fence should snap back against the post when pulled out a little.

Step 11 – Hand stretch the small section of chain link that remains between the Come-A-Long and the End Post. Remove a fabric to “cut” the fabric to the correct length. Slide the tie rod into the mesh and make your final connection. Once all the screws are in place, remove the tension tools.

Tying down the fence:

Step 1 – First attach the zip ties to the top rail to set the height of the fence. The top diamond of the chain link should be centered on the top rail. – First attach zip ties to the top rail to set the height of the fence. The top diamond of the chain link should be centered on the top rail. Step 2 – Space the zip ties evenly and no more than 2 feet apart. Step 3 – Post the connecting line last. Use the same number of cable ties per conductor post as tension bands per terminal. This amount is at least 1 per foot.

Installing Chain Link Gates:

There are many different types of hinges and latches on the market today for use with chain link doors. Most are self-explanatory and do not include installation instructions. Installation instructions usually accompany the more complicated hinges and latches.

Individual swing gates:

Basic hardware for swing gates

Step 1 – Install female hinges on gates with nuts and bolts. Again, nuts should be installed on the inside of the case. Space them as far apart as possible.

Step 2 – Hold the gate in the opening and mark the position of the male hinges. Point the bottom male hinge up and the top down.

Step 3 – Assemble the bottom and top outside hinges with screws. Tighten the bottom hinge, but leave the top hinge loose.

Step 4 – Place the gate on the bottom hinge and lower the top male hinge into the female hinge.

Step 5 – If the space under the gate is acceptable. Tighten the top pin hinge securely.

Step 6 – Test the gate to see if it misses the ground. Adjust as needed.

Step 7 – Tighten all hinge bolts. Don’t overdo it.

Step 8 – Mount the latch at a comfortable height (nuts inside).

double swing gates:

For double wing gates, you should assemble the gate closest to the ground first, unless the ground is perfectly level. Attach the second tier of gates to the first. Although you can “step down” the gates for a tight fit on the ground, installing them at the same height looks best.

Follow steps 1-7 from above to hang the gates. After that, follow the steps below to lock the gates together.

Drop Rod & Center Stops

Step 8 – Assemble the double gate drop bar/latch assembly.

Step 9 – Install the center stop for the double swing gate. Close the double gate, making sure the two wings are aligned (straight with fence line). Mark the floor where the center stop needs to be installed. You can simply use a cut piece of pipe as a center stop by driving it into the ground. Proceed slowly and check the gate to make sure you are driving the pipe straight. You can also use a pre-made center stop and cement it in for a better look. If the center stop is in a concrete drive, simply drill a hole in the concrete larger than the drop rod diameter. Be sure to drill through the concrete drive to allow the water to drain. Always make a much larger hole (or pipe size) than the drop rod diameter to allow for gate sag, jamb shifting, ice and other factors.

Optional step – Install gate holdbacks if desired. Open gate(s) to desired “open” position. Cement or drive a 2″ OD post a few inches past this point. Install the restraint at the correct height using the supplied U-bolts.

Final Step – Install all of the post caps.

sliding gates:

Cantilever gate with chain links

Roller shutter with chain links

Read more: Overview of Cantilever Chain Link Gate System | Chain Link Boom Installation Guide | Overview of the chain link roller door system