Chain Link Fencing Clips? The 88 Latest Answer

You can install a chain link fence without concrete, but it’s not recommended.

Anchoring each fence post in concrete is the best way to ensure your fence will stand straight and tall for many years to come. It can be tempting to skip the time and expense of setting the pins in cement, but the savings aren’t usually worth it in the long run for a number of reasons.

soil composition

The type of ground you are setting fence posts in will help determine how stable the ground is and how much you can expect the posts to move over time. Much of the North Shore area has clay soil. Clay soil expands and contracts significantly between dry and rainy periods, allowing the stakes to shift and settle differently. Concrete anchors are a must in clay soils.

If you have particularly sandy soil, you can also succeed without concrete. You should use a polymer backing to improve stability and drainage around the post.

Installing a chain link fence with concrete

Whether you use concrete or not, installing a chain link fence itself requires several tools and materials, including fence posts, gates, chain link netting, fasteners, tension rods and wires, post hole digger, drill, hacksaw or pipe cutter, shovel, spirit level, masonry cord, plumb bob, Rubber mallet, socket wrench, pull rod, fence puller, pliers, premixed concrete, gravel and a trowel.

This method usually takes two full days, including the time the cement has to dry overnight.

Install chain link fence without concrete

If you decide to install your chain link fence without concrete, use a post hole digger to drill a hole deep enough to bury the posts at least two feet, or about 1/3 the height. Never drive the posts into the ground, especially if you have hard clay or rocky ground, or you will bend the tops. The hole should be slightly larger than the posts so you can fill it with soil packed tightly around the posts.

Installing your fence without concrete will save you a small amount of money on concrete, trowel, and gravel. You can potentially complete the installation in a day if you use the auger to dig your post holes. If you choose to save the drill bit rental fee (usually around $50 or so) it will take longer as you will have to dig the post holes by hand.

Anchoring fence posts with cement is the most secure

If you just need a temporary fence, concrete anchors aren’t really feasible. In all other cases, anchoring each post is the best way to prevent years of slipping and tilting. Some people suggest just using cement on the end, gate and corner posts, but this method can still allow for a lot of movement so you’ll be resetting the unanchored posts in a few years anyway.

Many homeowners choose to install their own chain link fence, but if you decide the job is too big or you just don’t want the hassle, the professionals at Patriot Fence Crafters can get the job done quickly and efficiently.

About Patriot Fence Crafters

When customers come to Patriot Fence Crafters with their residential or commercial fencing, they can always be assured that they are receiving the highest quality product and service, backed by an established reputation for customer satisfaction. We strive to provide every customer with a pleasant and successful experience at an affordable price. Call us today to learn more about our services and arrange a free estimate!

We proudly offer our complete fencing services throughout the greater Boston area including Georgetown, Beverly, Andover, Danvers, Ipswich, Lynn, Lynnfield, Marblehead, Manchester and nearby Massachusetts.

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Tested and approved by Tom Grupa and 5 experienced fence companies on HomeGuide.

chain link fence cost

Installing a chain link fence costs an average of $1,350 to $3,900. A 4- to 6-foot chain link fence costs $9 to $28 per foot installed. Chain link fencing materials cost $4 to $15 per foot plus $5 to $15 per foot for labor. Prices depend on height (3′ to 12′) and material (galvanized, cyclone, black coated).

Chain Link Fence Cost – Chart

Chain-link fence cost Linear feet 4 foot tall 6 foot tall 8 foot tall 50 $450 – $1,300 $500 – $1,400 $600 – $1,500 100 $900 – $2,600 $1,000 – $2,800 $1,200 – $3,000 150 $1,350 – $3,900 $1,500 – $4,200 $1,800 – $4,500 200 $1,800 – $5,200 $2,000 – $5,600 $2,400 – $6,000 300 $2,700 – $7,800 $3,000 – $8,400 $3,600 – $9,000 400 $3,600 – $10,400 $4,000 – $11,200 $4,800 0 – 0.12

Chain link fences last 15 to 20 years and require little maintenance.

Available fence heights are 3′ to 12′ with 4′ to 8′ being the most common.

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Chain link fencing cost calculator

Enter the linear feet of your fence below to estimate the cost.

Chain Link Fence Cost Calculator Linear fence yards Width of area in feet Depth in inches

(4 in standard driveway; 5 in for heavy trucks) Your Estimated Cost Factor Average Cost Materials $-$ Labor $-$ Total $-$

Average cost of a chain link fence

Based on an average 4 foot tall fence ranging from 50 to 200 feet in length.

Average Cost of a Chain Link Fence – Chart

Average Cost of a Chain Link Fence National Average Cost $2,600 Minimum Cost $450 Maximum Cost $6,000 Average Range $1,350 to $3,900

*Based on 254 project costs reported by HomeGuide members.

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Cost of installing a chain link fence

Materials and labor each account for 50% of the total installation cost.

Cost of Installing a Chain Link Fence – Chart

Cost of Installing Chain Link Fence Factor Average Cost Per Running Foot Mesh $1-8 Posts and Hardware $3-7 Labor $5-15 Total $9-30

Labor costs for installing a chain link fence

The labor cost to install a chain link fence is $5 to $15 per linear foot. Total installation cost for labor and materials is $9 to $30 per linear foot depending on fence material, height and terrain. Fence installers charge $30 to $70 an hour plus materials.

Most contractors install an average of 80 to 150 feet per day.

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Cost of removing and replacing chain link fencing

Chain link fence removal and disposal costs an average of $3 to $7 per linear foot. Replacing the chain link fabric alone will cost $6 to $15 per linear foot if the fence posts are still strong. Chain link fence removal and a complete replacement costs $12 to $37 per linear foot.

Cost of chain link fencing replacement Factor Average cost per running foot Dismantling and disposal $3-$7 Replacement of mesh alone $6-$15 Full replacement $12-$37

Contractors will not lower their costs for the old fence parts, and most recyclers no longer buy old chain link fences.

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A 4- to 6-foot chain link fence costs $9-$28 per foot, while an 8- to 10-foot fence costs $12-$32 per foot installed. Residential jobs are priced by project or linear foot, while larger jobs are estimated by acre or mile.

Chain Link Fence Cost Per Foot by Height – Chart

Chain Link Fence Cost Per Foot Height (Foot) Material Cost Per Foot Installed Cost Per Foot 4 $4 – $11 $9 – $26 5 $5 – $12 $10 – $27 6 $5 – $13 $10 – $28 7 $7 – $14 $12 – $29 8 $7 – $15 $12 – $30 $10 $8 – $17 $13 – $32 $12 $9 – $19 $14 – $34

4′ Tall Cyclone Chain Link Fence – Residential

Chain link fence cost per running foot

Installing a 100 foot chain link fence costs $900 to $3,000, a 200 foot costs $1,800 to $6,000, and a 300 foot costs $2,700 to $9,000.

Chain Link Fence Cost Linear Feet Average Installation Cost 100 $900 – $3,000 150 $1,350 – $4,500 200 $1,800 – $6,000 300 $2,700 – $9,000

chain link fence cost per acre

The average cost of an acre of chain link fence is $7,500 to $25,000. Chain link fencing for a standard 1/4 acre residential lot costs $3,700 to $12,500, while a 1/2 acre garden costs $5,300 to $17,700.

Cost of Chain Link Fence per Acre Area Linear Feet Total Installed Cost 1/4 417 $3,700 – $12,500 1/2 590 $5,300 – $17,700 1 835 $7,500 – $25,000

*Prices are for plots with four equal sides. Irregularly shaped acreage has more linear feet and is more expensive per acre.

Chain link fences price per meter

Chain link fencing costs $30 to $100 per meter installed. Chain link fencing material price is $13-$50 per meter and installation adds $16-$50 per meter. A meter is about 3.3 feet long.

roll of chain link fence costs

A 50-foot roll of chain link fence costs $45 to $90 for standard 11.5 gauge and $250 to $400 per roll for premium 9 gauge. Most chain link fence rolls cost $1 to $8 per linear foot, depending on wire size, height, and coating.

Chain link fence rolls are 3 to 12 feet tall and weigh 50 to 420 pounds

10, 100, and 150 linear foot rolls are also available but are less common.

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Chain link fencing prices by type

Chain link fencing prices depend on the type of mesh material.

Galvanized steel mesh is the most common and affordable.

Vinyl coated mesh increases durability and protects against rust.

Pure aluminum is the most expensive, gives a unique look and is the lightest.

Chain Link Fence Prices by Type – Galvanized Cyclone, Vinyl Coated and Aluminized Coating

Chain Link Fencing Prices by Type Material Material Cost per Linear Foot Installed Cost per Linear Foot Galvanized $1-8 $9-30 Vinyl Coated $2-8 $10-32 Aluminized Coating $4-13 $12-35 Aluminum $9-40 17- $62

Electroplating involves coating steel wire with zinc to protect it from rusting. Aluminized chain link is an electroplated wire that is also coated with aluminum for added protection.

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Galvanized steel chain link fence price

Galvanized steel chain link fencing prices range from $9 to $30 per linear foot installed. Electroplated mesh alone costs $1 to $8 per running foot. Galvanized chain link fences are 3 to 12 feet tall with 6 to 12.5 gauge wire.

Galvanized wire mesh – very close

Cyclone or hurricane fence costs

A hurricane or cyclone fence costs $9 to $30 per linear foot installed. A cyclone fence is the same as a chain link fence. Vinyl coating on cyclone fences provides rust protection popular in coastal and hurricane prone areas.

Cost of a black and green vinyl covered chain link fence

A black chain link fence costs $10 to $32 per foot or $1,600 to $4,200 to install. The vinyl or powder coating protects against rust and helps the wire blend in with the environment. Coated chain link fencing comes in black, green, brown and white.

Vinyl coated black chain link fence installed in backyard

California chain link fencing cost (wood with metal)

A California chain link fence costs $8 to $16 per linear foot installed. These ranch style fences have wooden posts and beams at the top and bottom. Split rail wooden fences with galvanized or vinyl coated chain link mesh are easier to install but require more maintenance.

Alternative metal fences for property owners are:

Installing a wrought iron fence averages $24 to $44 per foot.

average to install. An aluminum fence costs $24 to $50 per foot, depending on the height.

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Chain link fencing cost estimator

Chain link fencing material prices range from $4 to $15 per linear foot, or 50% of the total cost. Chain link fencing estimates depend on the height, quality, wire gauge, and material type.

Material Prices for Chain Link Fencing Item Average Cost Wire Mesh $1-$8 per linear foot End Post $10-$50 each Line Post $10-$35 each Sidewalk Gate $30-$150 each Driveway Gate $120-$350 each Privacy Slats $2-$12 per linear foot Fabric Screen $1-$6 per linear foot Additional Hardware* $1-$2 per linear foot

*Includes rails, caps, bolts, cable ties, tie rods and straps.

Link mesh prices per thickness

Chain link prices range from $1 to $10 per linear foot depending on gauge or thickness. Lower gauges are thicker, stronger, and more expensive wire. Domestic wire mesh is typically 9 to 12 gauge in a 2 inch diamond. Smaller 1-inch diamonds are stronger but cost double or triple.

Chain Link Fence Wire Cost by Thickness Metric Average Cost per Running Foot $6 5 – $10 $8 3 – $10 9 $2 – $10 11 $1.50 – $7 11.5 $1 – $6

*Material prices only. The exact cost depends on the height of the fence.

Chain link fence post prices

Chain link fence post prices range from $20 to $75 per installed fence or $2 to $5 per linear foot of fence. Each post costs $10-$50 plus $10-$25 labor to install in concrete. Line posts go between end posts with a 4 to 10 foot gap between them.

Chain Link Fence Post Prices Type Material Prices Per Post Installed Prices Per Post Terminal $15 – $50 $25 – $75 Line $10 – $35 $20 – $60

Chain link gate installation cost

Chain link gates range from $60 to $470 depending on the type and size. Prices for chain link gates for materials alone range from $30 to $150 for walk-in models or $120 to $350 for double swing gates 6 to 20 feet wide. Roll-up driveway gates range from $350 to $4,000 and can be automatic.

Cost of installing a chain link gate – chart

Wire Mesh Gate Installation Cost Type Average Installation Cost Specifications Single swing $60 – $270 3′ to 6′ width

For walkways double swing $150 – $470 6′ to 20′ width

For Rolling Driveways $350 – $4,000 + 6′ to 30′ width

For driveways

Rolls to one side

*Includes labor costs from $30 to $120.

Cost of chain link fence privacy slats

Chain link fence privacy pickets range from $5 to $18 per linear foot installed, depending on size, material, and design. The privacy slats alone cost $2 to $12 per foot. Privacy blinds come in a variety of colors and styles from 4ft to 8ft in height, and installation is DIY-friendly.

Cost of chain link privacy slats Height in feet Average cost per box (10 LF) 4 $20 – $80 5 $30 – $90 6 $35 – $100 8 $50 – $120

*Each box contains approximately 80 slats and covers 10 linear feet.

8 foot chain link fence with green privacy pickets

Advantages of the picket fence:

Reduces wind, dust and noise

Withstands harsh weather and will last for decades

low maintenance; easy to change if damaged

Provides approximately 75% visual blockage

Manufactured from PVC, high density polyethylene or aluminium

Some designs simulate redwood slabs or green hedges

Chain link fence privacy screen prices

Privacy screen fabric for chain link fencing costs $1 to $6 per linear foot, depending on height, light blocking capacity, and design. Fence privacy screens are typically sold in rolls ranging from 25 to 150 feet in length and 4 to 8 feet in height. Most screens come in dark, neutral colors.

Advantages and disadvantages:

Easy to hang up

Offers 80% to 95% privacy

Water and wind permeable

UV resistant models available

Shorter service life than plastic blinds

Less aesthetic

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Chain link fencing price factors

The table below shows other price factors for installing a chain link fence:

Price Factors for Chain Link Fencing Factor Average Cost Permit $40-150 Landscaping $50-100 per hour Tree Removal $180-700 per hour Stump Removal $50-300 per piece Land Surveying $200-800 Yard Grading $500-3,000 Height Extensions (material only ) $10 – $35 per post Fence painting $0.60 – $1.30 per square foot Automatic gate closer (material only) $15 – $30

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Building permits and regulations

Planning permission for a chain link fence costs $40 to $150, depending on local building codes. Fences taller than 3.5 to 6 feet usually require permits. Simple repairs do not require a permit, while replacements often require a permit.

Backyard fences are typically 6 to 8 feet tall, and front yard fences are 3.5 to 4 feet tall. Check building codes or the homeowners association for local regulations on fence height, location, post size and depth, privacy screens, and pool enclosures.

Landscaping, clearing and surveying

Additional charges apply for tree care, land surveying and landscaping in preparation for installation.

Installing a chain link fence on concrete

Post mounting brackets or anchors for installing a chain link fence on concrete cost $15 to $35 each. Contractors attach anchors to concrete using impact drills and bolts. Alternatively, cutting a hole in the concrete to insert the post costs $125 to $250 per project, depending on drilling or sawing depth.

Chain Link Fence Height Extender

Chain link fence height extender kits cost $285 to $430 per set and are 1 to 4 feet tall and 100 feet long. Extending a chain link fence with exact-fit material costs $10-$35 per extension post plus $1-$10 per foot for chain link. Contractors then charge $30 to $80 an hour for installation.

Chain link fencing alternatives and prices

Fence prices range from $5 to $25 per foot, depending on the type.

A wooden fence costs $12 to $27 per linear foot installed.

Furnished. A vinyl fence costs $15 to $30 per linear foot installed.

Chain link fencing alternatives and prices Type Cost per linear foot Features Wood $12 – $27 Natural, painted or stained

Easy to fix

Offers the most privacy

Requires annual maintenance

weather fast

Shortest lifetime

May rot or warp if not resealed regularly

Susceptible to Termite Damage Vinyl $15 – $30 Maintenance Free

Easy to clean with a hose

Fast installation

Waterproof

Outlasts wood

Difficult to repair

Limited color options

Cracks at extreme temperatures

Weak in high wind areas Aluminum (picket fence) $25 – $55 Stainless

Many design options

budget friendly

Low maintenance

Not as strong as steel Wrought Iron & Steel $30-65 Longest lasting

most expensive

Strongest for high security fencing

weather resistant

pest proof

heaviest material

Most difficult to install

*Total price for material and installation.

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frequently asked Questions

How long does a chain link fence last?

Chain link fences will last 15 to 20 years with proper maintenance and repair. A chain link fence can cost anywhere from $150 to $550 to repair. Typical repairs include replacing small sections, replacing gates or posts, repairing the top rail, resetting posts, and fastening loose hardware.

How much does a standard chain link fence cost?

Commercial chain link fencing costs $12 to $35 per linear foot installed for 4 to 12 foot high fences. The materials alone average $7 to $19 per running foot. Commercial chain link fences are stronger, last longer, and have thicker 6 to 9 gauge wire.

What is the rental price for a temporary chain link fence?

Temporary chain link fence rentals cost $15 to $30 per panel per month. Chain link fence rentals for up to 6 months are $2 to $3 per linear foot with a minimum fee of $350 to $420. Individual panels are typically 6 feet high and 12 feet long.

Temporary Chain Link Fence Rental Rates Period Cost Per Item Weekly $5 to $18 Monthly $15 to $30

*Usually includes the panel, stand, delivery, set up and take down.

How long does it take to install a chain link fence?

Installing a chain link fence takes 2 to 5 days depending on length and complexity. Contractors install 80 to 150 feet daily depending on crew size and job conditions. Setting the posts in concrete takes 1 day. Cement hardens in 1 to 4 days depending on the type.

How much does it cost to move a chain link fence?

Moving a chain link fence costs an average of $10 to $22 per running foot. Contractors dismantle the fence and reuse as many parts as possible. Fences older than 15 years are best replaced, not relocated. Have the fence inspected by a professional to find the ideal solution.

Does a chain link fence reduce property value?

Chain link fencing does not increase the resale value of the property. While chain link fencing is affordable, chain link has the least designer appeal of all fencing types. Only solid wood, cast iron or vinyl privacy fencing has a 50% ROI in resale value.

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Cost of installing a DIY chain link fence

A DIY chain link fence costs $4 to $15 per linear foot for materials plus $600 for tools and $100 to $160 per day for equipment rental. DIY chain link fence installation requires two workers over 2 to 5 days.

Those inexperienced with power tools, heavy equipment, land clearing, or grading should consider hiring a contractor.

Call 811 or your local utility company to tag public utility lines and a private utility crew for private lines. Marker lines prevent supply disruptions, damage and serious injuries.

equipment and tools

DIY chain link fence construction equipment Tools Materials Cement mixing/pouring tools (bucket, mortar pick, trowel, wheelbarrow)

Pole for digging the hole

drilling machine

Auger or auger

Wire/cable cutters

Metal cutting handsaw

Measuring Tools: Masonry cord or cord, tape measure, pegs for landscaping, and leveler for post or surface leveling

Hog Ring Pliers

shovel

Ratchet Socket Wrench

Fence tension rod & 2 ton winch (or cable puller)

sledgehammer

Eye and ear protection, gloves Concrete Mix – Fast setting mixes harden in less than an hour saving 1 to 2 days time

Chain Link Fence Hardware Kit (Including Post, Gate, Fence Roll)

Support strips & wood screws

2″x4″ scrap wood

gravel (optional)

Tool rental costs

Reaming Tools: $6 to $10 per day. Best for softer soils only.

. Best for softer soils only. Electric drill (1 person): $75 to $110 per day. Ideal for hard or loamy soils.

. Ideal for hard or loamy soils. Electric cement mixers (160-180 lbs. capacity): $30-$50 per day.

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Hiring a Chain Link Fence Installer

Before hiring a chain link fence installer near you, remember:

Compare at least three estimates.

Look for contractors with several years of experience.

Check out their reviews on HomeGuide, Google, and the Better Business Bureau (BBB).

Check their building permit (C-13 in California). Top professionals are also certified by the American Fence Association or OSHA.

Check their insurance, workers’ compensation, and bail bonds.

Avoid companies with the cheapest offerings as quality can suffer.

Obtain a detailed cost estimate, contract and guarantee in writing before starting work.

Never pay in full before the project begins. Instead, follow a payment plan.

Questions to ask

Do you know the local building codes and fencing requirements?

Will you schedule an underground survey appointment to mark utility lines before work begins?

Are all material and labor costs included in this estimate? What additional costs should I expect?

How long will this project last?

What selection of fencing materials do you offer and what are the price differences?

Will you be hauling away all the old fencing materials and cleaning up after installation?

Can you help me locate my property survey to mark the official boundaries?

Will my fence run right along the property line or should the fence remain within it?

Do I need a permit to install the fence? If yes, will you collect the permit for me?

What are your payment terms and schedule?

How many chain link fences have you installed?

Can I see references of your previous installations?

Do you offer a guarantee on your work?

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Step 5: Install tent pegs

Go to any spot that has a bare spot under the fence without a significant sink. Take tent pegs and drive them into the ground against the fence. Space the stakes so they are 3 or 4 inches apart. Make sure the hook at the top of the post securely hooks onto the fence wire near the bottom of the fence and that the post does not slip. This will prevent dogs from digging in or out of the fence.

Can you attach wooden fence panels to metal posts?

It is easy to attach wooden fence panels to metal posts. Galvanized metal fence posts are more durable than wooden fence posts and will not crumble, so it makes sense to use them to support your wooden fence. Especially if you are replacing a chain link fence with a wooden fence and want to reuse the posts. Building a wooden fence with metal posts is easy thanks to staples and screws. They are the ones who attach wood panels to metal. You can also build a sleeve out of 4 pieces of wood and wrap it around the metal post. This hides the metal post but retains its strength. Finally, you could screw your wooden fence panels directly to the metal posts.

People like wooden fences because they are beautiful, traditional, affordable, strong, and easy to install. However, the main problem with wooden fences is that they rot over time. And the main place they rot is at the base of the post. This issue is resolved if you use a metal post instead. Pressure-treated fence posts can help, but they can also eventually rot. Then there are animals and bugs to consider. Nothing bites or digs into a metal fence post.

Fence posts, on the other hand, should last a long time:

Wooden fence posts typically last 15 to 20 years.

Galvanized metal fence posts can last over 50 years.

Metal fence posts add strength and durability to the fence, while wood offers beauty. By using wooden panels with metal posts you get the best of both materials.

In this article we explain how.

How to attach wooden fence panels to metal posts

The majority of residential fences are made of either wood or metal. Wooden fences, often referred to as “privacy fences,” are typically made of wooden panels connected to wooden posts. They are strong, durable, attractive, provide privacy, but will rot.

Metal fences are generally attached to metal rails and posts with chain links. Metal is stronger than wood and doesn’t rot, but it doesn’t offer privacy and isn’t typically considered an attractive fence. Generally, chain link fences are built to keep human animals in or out, and while they don’t rot, they are a rust. But what if you combined both.

Attaching a wooden fence panel to a metal post is very easy. When you build a fence this way, you get the benefits of wood panels with the strength and durability of metal posts. It really is the best of both materials and a surprise that more people don’t build fences this way.

Metal posts come in three main types: square post, round post, T-post or U-profile. But luckily, attaching wood to them is the same no matter what style or size you are.

There are three ways I attach wood to metal.

Brackets & Screws.

wooden sleeves.

Direct connection.

Below we go into each method in detail.

Brackets & Screws

The main method of attaching wooden fence panels to metal posts is with staples and screws. The mount you use will depend on the type of post you have, as a round post will require different shaped mounts than a square one.

The brackets work exactly the same regardless of their shape. Essentially, a mount acts as a middleman, holding together two things that aren’t really connected. For example, the bracket screws into the post and then into the panel, but the panel and post are never fastened together. The bracket does all the work.

Regardless of the type of bracket you use, you’ll need both metal screws and wood screws. You should also bring a drill and metal tip to drill pilot holes in the metal. A pencil is handy to mark the holes and a tape measure to line things up. Bring a bubble level to ensure both the post and panel remain level and vertical while you install the brackets.

Make sure the brackets and screws you buy are suitable for outdoor use. Otherwise they will eventually rust.

Use brackets and screws strong enough to support the fence panels you are installing. Because they support the weight of the panels, they are a potential point of failure.

A helper or two will come in handy. Your helpers can hold the plate in place while you attach the brackets. When you work alone, the work becomes more difficult. First screw the brackets to the posts and then attach the panels. If you screw the brackets to the panels first, you will have a hard time sliding them over the posts.

Where to buy brackets

Most home and garden retailers such as Home Depot and fencing suppliers carry the brackets you need. You can also order them online.

Most fence brackets are designed to fit around a 1 5/8 or 2 3/8 inch diameter galvanized post, as this is the most common size. But you can order brackets in all possible sizes. The larger and rarer the clip size, the more expensive it becomes.

Some use a turnbuckle to hold them in place, while others simply fit over the post and are secured when the wooden fence is installed. But I prefer the mounts that screw into both the metal and the wood. Tension fasteners can loosen over time, but some good screws won’t.

Fastening wood to a round metal post

Round posts are the most commonly used metal fence posts as they are used to build chain link fencing. If you are using a round post you have a few choices for the mount. A tubular rail tie is the simplest. This encloses the round metal post and can be screwed to either side of the post’s wooden panels.

A bolt or screw on some tubular rail ties allows the bracket to be tightened around the round post. The stronger the connection, the less it wobbles.

If you don’t want to use brackets, try attaching the fence panels directly to the posts with metal screws. It is difficult to screw a flat piece of wood to a round post as there isn’t much surface contact. To fix this, you can buy or craft a mounting block. One side of the block is flat while the other is rounded. Screw the round side to the post and the flat side to the fence panel. Mounting blocks make it easier to attach flat objects to round surfaces because one side of the block is rounded. Just make sure the inside radius of the block matches the outside diameter of the post.

Attaching wood to a square post

Attaching wooden fence panels to a square post is easier than to a round one because they are flat. Either a bracket and screws or just screws works great.

When attaching wood to metal, be sure to use metal screws and pre-drill the holes. This will greatly facilitate the work. You can also use self-tapping screws that will drill themselves into the metal. They work well if the metals aren’t too thick, but I prefer pre-drilling.

When it comes to choosing a mount, you have a lot to choose from. Their size ranges from light to heavy. Make sure you are using a bracket that is designed for outdoor use and is the right size for your panels. Undersized brackets or screws can eventually fail.

If you’re using self-tapping metal screws, I recommend pre-drilling the wood. Self-tapping screws are great for metal, but they won’t go through wood. This also helps ensure the screws are in the right place when going into the metal.

When buying your screws, pay attention to the thickness of the wood because you don’t want them to be too short. This is a very common mistake. If the fence panel is 2″ thick then don’t buy a 2″ or even 2 1/4″ screw as that won’t stay in the metal enough. I would recommend at least a 3 inch screw so a full inch penetrates the metal.

Attaching T-posts or U-profiles

T-Posts and U-Channel are basically the same thing. The standard T-Post or U-Channel is made of rivets or plain metal with no holes. You have two options, use metal screws and drill holes in your post or use a post mount.

One thing to note about T-posts and U-channels is that they are generally used for temporary fencing or for keeping animals. Residential fences do not typically use them because they are not as attractive and not as strong as a more permanent fence post. They are also usually not installed in concrete. That doesn’t mean you can’t use them consistently, they just aren’t very often.

The only good thing about the T post and U channel is that there is a flat end. Make sure this is the end that touches the fence panel. Mounting two flat surfaces is much easier than mounting flat to round.

Wire works very well with T-posts and U-profiles if they have slots, holes, or pins. You can use these to attach the wire tightly.

belay techniques

The way you attach your wooden fence panels to the metal post has a big impact on how strong they are. The stability of your fence panels is also determined by how you secure your fence post.

There are two ways to secure your metal posts, in the dirt or in the concrete. Driving a post into the dirt works well for lighter fences, but if you have a heavy fence I recommend using some concrete around the post base.

This is also effected by the design of the fence. Chain link doesn’t need such a sturdy post because the wind goes right through it. But a solid fence acts like a sail and catches the full force of the wind. The lateral forces can be extremely high during a storm. If you are installing solid wood fence panels, I recommend using concrete.

Insert the metal post into a hole at least two feet deep. Hit it down with a post driver, then fill the hole with dirt while pushing down to ensure a tight fit.

Instead of filling the hole with soil, fill it with concrete if you want your post to be stronger.

Whatever method you use to secure the fence or posts, make sure it’s very strong and won’t wobble. Any game crowd will be amplified over time or in a storm.

metal fence post

If you’re going from a chain link fence to a wooden fence, there’s no need to install posts as they’ll already do it for you. However, if you are building a new fence, you must first lay out and install the posts. Once the posts are in place you can start installing the wood panels.

Keep in mind that as a rule of thumb, about a third of the total length of the posts should be in the ground. For example, if you want a 6ft post off the ground, you will need a total of 8ft post.

In general, the posts should be about 6-8 feet apart. However, actual measurements will depend on your fence design. If the planks of wood are 10 feet long, place the posts accordingly.

The depth and amount of concrete you need has a lot to do with the weight of the fence, the design of the fence, and the soil.

If the wood panels are solid, use more concrete. Solid fences are like a sail, catching the full force of the wind. You need the extra support.

Fences with holes don’t need as much support because the wind passes through them. The more holes there are, the less concrete the posts will need.

If you are erecting a fence in sandy soil, use more concrete as the soil will not provide as much support.

Remember that about 1/3 of the total post height is underground. If the fence is high, go low.

The heavier the fence, the more support it needs.

Setting metal posts

The first step in building a fence is installing the posts. If you’re converting a metal fence to wood, you’re in luck because that step is already done.

Setting posts involves digging a deep hole into which the posts can be set, and then filling that hole with concrete or earth after the post is in place. As you work, make sure that all posts are in a straight line and that they are all plumb. If the concrete dries and the posts aren’t perfect, it will be difficult to attach or build the wood panels later.

To ensure the posts are in a straight line, tie string at the bottom and top of the posts at the corners. All center posts should line up with the cord. Simultaneously check each post with a spirit level while it is set and as you fill the hole. This will ensure it stays plumb.

You may also need to use some temporary clamps to hold the fence posts in place while the concrete sets and is poured.

As a rule, about 1/3 of the total length of the post should be underground. For example, if you want the post 6 feet off the ground, you will need about an 8 foot post with 2 feet buried.

Change the amount of concrete you use based on the height of the fence, the size of the fence, and soil conditions. Poor or soft soil like sand needs more concrete. Likewise a heavier or higher fence. And the design is also important. If your fence is solid, it needs more concrete because of the wind. Hollow fences are not affected as much by the wind as it passes right through them.

Wrapping wood around metal posts

One of my favorite ways to attach wooden fence panels to metal posts is to wrap wood around the posts.

If you like the look of an all-wood fence but want the strength of metal posts, then wrap the posts in wood. You get the best of both materials without seeing any metal.

Special mounting brackets allow you to completely hide the metal posts by wrapping them in wood. The brackets have a flat side and a round side. First screw the brackets to the posts. Then screw 4 planks of wood to the brackets to form a box, also called a pillar wrap, to form the post. When you’re done, you won’t see any metal.

You can achieve this without mounting brackets. Build the enclosure from 4 wooden planks first, then slide them over the metal post. Screw through the wood and into the metal. Make sure the inside diameter of the wrap is just a hair larger than the outside diameter of the metal post. This allows the wrap to fit snugly over the post without too much slack. Use some washers to hold the wrap tight against the post.

Make sure you use outside wood for your wraps so they don’t rot.

The post coverings and fence elements do not necessarily have to be made of the same wood. It all depends on the look you want.

When it comes time to install the fence panels, you can either screw them into the wood paneling or into the metal posts underneath.

Build the wooden fence panels

When building a fence, the posts are installed first. Without strong fence posts, the panels are of little use. Panels make up the bulk of a fence, but it’s the posts that provide support.

If you are building a fence from scratch without prefabricated wood panels, here is a simple step-by-step guide to help you.

Measure, plan and install all posts. Make sure the posts are the right depth to support the fence. Determine if you need concrete or not. Once the posts are in place, install horizontal fence rails that run from post to post. Attach these wooden rails to the metal posts with metal screws. You can also use brackets to attach the rails to the posts. Next, install fence pickets to the rails. This is a wood to wood connection so either nails or screws will work. You can only install pickets on one side of the fence, but I recommend installing them on both sides. The result is a safer and better looking fence. Finally, install the final decorative pieces like post caps.

You can also build fence panels separately and later attach them in one piece. This is the same process as if you bought the factory made panels. If so, follow the instructions discussed above.

Finally, install or build the gate.

Some builders use two fence rails instead of three. If the fence is being built for the first time, it doesn’t make much of a difference. But as the fence ages, it does because the pickets can warp. It’s more likely with only two fence rails, which can result in gaps and an ugly fence. A third center rail helps keep the fence panel stable.

Install the gate

To utilize the strength of the galvanized post on the hinge side of the gate, attach the gate to it with the same gate hinges you would use on a chain link fence gate. To lighten the gate, first make a metal gate frame out of thinner steel tubing than you used for the posts.

Mount the frame parts with corner brackets made of galvanized steel. Drill holes through the top and bottom rails of the gate frame and attach wooden rails with carriage bolts, then hang the gate frame on the jamb hinges.

Fence boards are screwed to the rails to complete the gate.

Cable

Another great way to attach a wooden fence panel to a metal post is with wire. It’s cheap and easy to install. Although I don’t recommend this as a permanent solution. If you are building a permanent fence, use a bracket or screw the wood directly to the post.

All you need for wire work is the wire, pliers and wire cutters. To make things even easier, use a wire cutter and pliers combo tool.

Make sure you use outdoor wire that will not rust and is thick gauge. If you undersize the wire, it could break.

I recommend a wire connection at least every 18 inches up the post.

To secure the wire, simply wrap it around the plate and post. Then twist the wire until it is very tight. Finally cut off the excess wire. 3 or 4 turns are usually sufficient.

If the fence panel doesn’t have room to put the wire through, you’ll need to drill small holes yourself or mount a small U-shaped bracket to put the wire through.

Installing metal fence post as a repair

An existing wooden fence with rotted posts can be repaired by replacing the existing posts with galvanized steel.

First, the section of fence resting on the rotted post must be dismantled. You want to save and reuse the panels, so be careful. Ideally, just replace the post.

Removing the rotted fence post also means removing the concrete that is in the ground. If there’s no concrete, then you’re in luck. But if so, you need to dig it up. There is no easy way to do this. Dig on both sides of the concrete and slide the post back and forth. Once it’s loose you need to pull the post out of the hole. A jack or lever and fulcrum can help lift it off the ground.

Once the post and concrete are out of the ground, insert the new metal post. A little gravel at the bottom of the hole helps. Use a pipe to hold the concrete in place as the hole will likely be very large.

Make sure the new metal post lines up with the other posts. To be safe, draw a line between the extreme corner or end posts.

With the new metal post in place, slowly pour the concrete. Check the post for plumb as you do this.

When the concrete has set, attach the wooden panels to the new metal fence post.

Summary: Can you attach wooden fence panels to metal posts?

It is easy to attach wooden fence panels to metal posts. Galvanized metal fence posts are more durable than wooden fence posts and will not crumble, so it makes sense to use them to support your wooden fence. Especially if you are replacing a chain link fence with a wooden fence and want to reuse the posts. Building a wooden fence with metal posts is easy thanks to staples and screws. They are the ones who attach wood panels to metal. You can also build a sleeve out of 4 pieces of wood and wrap it around the metal post. This hides the metal post but retains its strength. Finally, you could screw your wooden fence panels directly to the metal posts.

People like wooden fences because they are beautiful, traditional, affordable, strong, and easy to install. However, the main problem with wooden fences is that they rot over time. And the main place they rot is at the base of the post. This issue is resolved if you use a metal post instead. Pressure-treated fence posts can help, but they can also eventually rot. Then there are animals and bugs to consider. Nothing bites or digs into a metal fence post.

Fence posts, on the other hand, should last a long time:

Wooden fence posts typically last 15 to 20 years.

Galvanized metal fence posts can last over 50 years.

Metal fence posts add strength and durability to the fence, while wood offers beauty. By using wooden panels with metal posts you get the best of both materials.

If you have any questions or comments about recycling vinyl fencing, email us anytime.

Tips and more from the experts at the Signet Fence Store.

Chain link fencing remains one of the most popular fencing options. The fence requires very little maintenance but is very durable. However, not all homeowners want the industrial look of a chain link fence. This is where wood comes into play. By combining chain links with wood you can achieve a number of different effects. Try one of the following mixed material fences to secure and enhance your yard.

1. Wooden frame

A common way to upgrade a chain link fence is with wood frames. In this case, contractors start with wooden posts instead of the standard metal. Then they unroll the chain link fabric between the posts and secure them appropriately. The finishing touch is adding a top and bottom rail to complete the frame. You have many customization options for this style of fence, including the type of wood you choose for the posts and railings. You can also have the wood varnished black to give your fence a modern look. If you want to achieve a special decorative effect, you can customize the posts and railings of your fence.

2. Grid panels

Some homeowners choose to install mesh panels along the front of their chain link fences. But you could also integrate the mesh paneling with the chain link. Such a fence has several advantages. On the one hand, the lattice plate takes up the pattern of the chain links. Secondly, you can raise your fence without interfering with the view. The easiest way to achieve this look starts with a wood frame construction. The contractors then attach the grid panels to the top track. Another option is for the contractors to alternate the tall trellis panels with standard height chain link fencing for a more artistic appearance.

3. Wooden slats

You can also combine chain links with wooden posts. As with mesh panels, some homeowners cover the entire chain link fence with picket fence panels. You can create an attractive effect by alternating the two styles. This method works best with a framed chain link fence. For example, the contractors can rotate panel by panel, similar to the grid panels. In addition, you can also design your fairing according to your wishes. Let’s say you want to let more sun through in some areas and add privacy in other areas. You can determine where to place chain links and where to place the slat panels according to these requirements.

4. Wooden slats

Another way homeowners update their chain link fencing is by sliding privacy screens through the openings. While vinyl and aluminum slats are very popular, you can also choose wooden slats. Wooden slats are far less common, giving your fence a unique look. Typically, such fences also take on a rustic look due to the nature of the slats. They usually consist of thin, rough strips of wood that you stick vertically between the links of the chain. Over time, these wooden slats can take on a weathered appearance. However, they also give you good privacy and wind control.

5. Split rails

Chain link fence installation guide

Shop: chain link fence | fence tools

Read more: How to Install Chain Link Fence (PDF) | Chain Link Installation Tutorial (PDF) | Overview of the chain link fencing system

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Before you start:

Step 1 – Obtain the necessary zoning and building permits. There may be local zoning or deed restrictions on the height and type of fence and/or gate. Find out about property line requirements. Find survey needles if you want the fence to be near property lines, or have the property surveyed.

Step 2 – Measure the fence material and locate the placement of the gate.

Step 3 – Call 811 before you dig. Notify your local or state utility protection service to locate potential underground utilities. There is usually no cost to locating utilities, but there can be a hefty charge to repair buried utilities, not to mention possible personal injury.

Step 4 – Shop your chain link fence at HooverFence.com.

Tools needed for installation:

Unpacking and checking the fence shipment:

Prepare for the delivery of your HooverFence.com fence. Chain link fence orders can arrive on small and large trucks, covered trailers and picket fence trucks. Forklifts are not usually required, but be prepared to unload fence tubing, chain link reels, sacks and crates of chain link fittings by hand. First, we recommend that you carefully unpack and inspect your shipment to ensure you have all of your materials. Make sure you go through and read all of the instructions at this point. While installing the fence is relatively easy, this online guide should take all the guesswork out. If you have any questions or problems installing the fence, please give us a call. Read more: Shipping Policy.

Set Fence Lines:

You determine the future fence line by using the stakes and string to stake out the area to be fenced.

Step 1 – Drive the stakes a foot or two away from where you want to place the Corner and End Posts; This allows you to drill/dig holes without obstacles. It can also allow you to “drop” the cord when digging holes for fence posts. Be careful not to bump or dislodge the stakes. If you remove the tendon to dig holes, be sure to stretch the tendon back to how it was before you removed it.

Step 2 – Tightly stretch the masonry leader between these posts. This cord represents the position of the fence and serves as a guide when setting posts. Posts are cast in concrete or driven 1/8-1/4″ from the stringline.

Step 3 – Intermediate posts may be required for longer fence sections. Be sure to pull the string taut, as a string that sags or moves with the wind will cause the posts to be misadjusted. Remember that the fence can only be as straight as the leader line.

Step 4 – First locate the goal posts and mark their position with reversed post hole marker paint. Next, measure each fence section. Chain link fence posts are usually spaced a maximum of ten feet apart. Space the posts evenly for aesthetic reasons, but no more than ten feet between posts. If you plan to install privacy blinds or other materials that will increase wind loads, consider using 8-foot or 6-foot post spacing. Also consider the scaffolding, i. H. Posts and railings, upgrade to a larger diameter and thicker wall thickness. Heavier chain link frames such as HF20 and/or HF40 are an excellent choice for use with chain link fencing with aluminum diagonal or PVC privacy battens or privacy screens.

marker color

post location

Creating square corners using the 3-4-5 method:

Step 1 – Pull the string along the two adjacent sides as shown in the drawing. Step 2 – Measure and mark 3′ down on a line. Step 3 – Measure and mark 4′ down on the other line. Step 4 – Measure diagonally between the two marks and adjust the lines to measure 5′. Note: For greater accuracy, use measurements in multiples of 3-4-5, such as e.g. 6-8-10 etc.

Setting up posts:

Typical post layout

Correct the shape of the post hole

Step 1 – Post hole sizes may vary depending on geographic location, fence height, and fence materials used. Generally for residential chain link fences, dig holes 6 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep (or below the frost line in your area). Another rule of thumb is to dig the holes three times the diameter of the post, i.e. a 2″ diameter post would require a 6″ diameter hole, and one third the height of the fence that is above ground, stick in the ground. Typically, goalpost holes are dug larger in diameter and deeper to withstand the added stress of a moving goal. The guide string can be temporarily removed prior to excavation to prevent cutting. Be sure to replace it as it was originally stretched.

Holes for chain link fence posts can be dug by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars, small gas powered augers, or skid steer loaders with hydraulic augers. Size your auger bit according to the height and nature of the fencing material to be installed.

If you need to place a fence post near an existing structure, drilling close to the structure is still better than digging by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars from scratch. Here a hole was drilled as securely as possible to the existing fence. The hole is hand dug or “shaved” to allow it to sit closer to the existing fence.

Holes next to buildings often have to be dug by hand. Be careful as drain pipes and other utility lines may be near foundations.

Some obstacles like the above can be difficult to handle. In this case, a post can be bent to miss the pipe. First measure the depth of the bend.

Notice how the post stays firmly attached to the house, but is still dug into the depth with an adequate foot of concrete.

Step 2 – Re-tighten the guide line and check the holes visually and/or by placing a post in the hole and plumbing in all directions for accuracy. If the hole needs to be “shaved” or moved, do it now. If the holes are shallow because you hit an object you can’t remove, “bell” the hole below. To “bell” a hole, use a post hole digger and/or spud bar to make the bottom of the hole larger than the top. This further anchors the concrete foot that supports your fence. ‘Belling’ compensates for holes up to 18 inches deep. If necessary, move the hole slightly to avoid obstacles. This changes your post spacing. In the case of line piles, however, this is not harmful. If you need to move more than a few feet, consider installing an additional post in the center of the extended space. Other ways to deal with obstacles include bending posts underground and welding plates to posts to attach them to large rocks.

Check the hole position before filling with concrete mix. The hole should not be perfectly centered under the string; It should be slightly offset to center the post in the concrete base. If necessary, insert the post into the empty hole and check the plumb with a spirit level. The post should be spaced about 1/8-1/4″. If not, the fence post hole will need to be “shaved”.

After the holes for the fence posts have been dug and cleaned, check that each hole is in the correct location. If you can’t see it visually, place the post in the hole and plumb the post. The post must be perpendicular and placed 1/8″-1/4″ from the leader. Fence Tip: Be sure to dig fence post holes the correct depth and diameter for your area. Northern regions have deeper frost depths than the southern part of the country. 30-36″ deep concrete feet will suffice for most fence installations.

Step 3 – Mix concrete with water using a pre-mixed bag. Just walk on the water. The mixture should look like thick gray mud, not mom’s watered-down chili. If it doesn’t pile up on the scoop, it’s too thin; add more mixture to dry it. When mixing from scratch using aggregate such as gravel, limestone or shell, concrete sand and Portland cement, mix 3 to 4 parts (shovels) aggregate to 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

Smaller fencing projects are often erected with pre-mixed bagged concrete. Often sold in hardware stores, 40, 60, and 80 pound bags are usually readily available for your fencing project. Calculate your concrete requirements for fence posts using HooverFence.com’s Concrete Calculator.

Premixed bags of concrete can be mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow with a shovel, or with a gas-powered or electric-powered cement mixer. Mix concrete to a “thick milkshake”-like consistency. Don’t mix too wet or the soupy texture will cause the posts to sink or the concrete won’t set at all.

For small chain link fencing where the job can be set and stretched in the same day, using a small amount of Quik Rok or another brand of quick setting hydraulic cement with regular premixed cement can save time and an extra trip to the job site.

Quik Rok Rapid Setting Hydraulic Cement is available in 5 gallon pails and is a powder-like material that can be used alone for small holes (coring cement). You can also mix about a scoopful of this baking-flour-like material with a wheelbarrow full of regular cement. Fence Tip: Some fence specification work requires concrete feet to be poured to the top, capped and spackled. Use a pointed trowel for a better look.

Step 4 – Mark the postgrade mark. End, corner and gate posts should be marked at the height of the fence plus 1 inch; 49 inches for a 4-foot fence, 61 inches for a 5-foot fence, etc. Mark intermediate or line posts at the height of the fence minus 3 inches; 45″ for 4′ fence, 57″ for 5′ fence etc. If you add your post cap and top rail the height will be accurate. Height markings represent the bottom of the fence and are essential for setting posts at the correct depth. If you bury the post that hides the height marker by 1 inch you will need to dig a trench to bury the fence here. If your height mark is 3 inches off the ground, your fence will be 3 inches off the ground and you’d better plan this and trim it later or fill it under the fence if a tight fit is required.

For chain link fencing, line posts (intermediate posts) should be marked with a height marker that is 3″ less than the height of the fence to be installed. This is where a 6 foot high fence will be installed. Line posts are marked at 5′-9″. . Fence Tip: Vinyl coated wire mesh is more resilient than galvanized mesh and may “shrink” slightly when stretched. Subtract an additional 1/2 inch if setting posts for a vinyl-covered fabric fence.

With chain link fences, end posts, i. H. End Posts, Corner Posts and Gate Posts, marked 1″ more than the height of the fence to be installed. For a 6 foot chain link fence, mark the posts at 6 feet to 1 inch. . Fence Tip: After setting, place a spare piece of tubing or a post that has not yet been set on top of the gate post and align these posts. Gates are usually perfectly square.

Step 5 – Fill holes with wet cement. Don’t fill too many and risk the concrete setting before you can “glue” your posts. Don’t fill the holes with concrete to the brim, leave the concrete 3-4″. Filling the hole completely with cement is a common mistake. When this is done, water will collect under that “lip” of concrete. When it freezes, the ground literally presses down on the concrete base and “lifts” the post up, much like squeezing a tube of toothpaste.

Once the fence post holes have been dug and cleaned (making sure to clear the post holes of loose dirt and debris), shovel cement into the holes until they are almost full. Drop the cement from the soil surface (degrees) about 3″. Holes should also be larger in diameter at the bottom than at the top, “bell-shaped”. Holes shaped like a carrot can lift prematurely.

Fence post holes can be filled virtually as fast as the batches of cement can be mixed and poured. Often another person can follow the person filling in the holes and “stick” the fence posts. To “stick” fence posts is simply to push the posts into a hole that has already been filled with cement, plumb and close to the stringline.

Fill post holes with concrete mix. Don’t fill holes completely. This can cause posts to lift prematurely.

Step 6 – Glue the post. Most chain link posts can be installed by first pouring the cement into the hole and then “sticking” the post into the wet cement. Simply slide the post into the cement mix in the center of the hole. Place the binding posts as close to the string as possible without touching the string. Setline posts approximately 1/8″-1/4″ off-string. This will account for the differences in fence post diameters. Another way to set posts is for one person to hold the post perpendicular to the plumb line while another shovels concrete mix around the post. The first method outlined is actually simpler, a more efficient method of setting fence posts and ensuring that there is concrete around, under and within the post.

Chain link fence posts should be “taped down” to their respective height markings and anchored with leader cords. Fill in loose dirt and gently step on the dirt surrounding the posts to help hold them up too high. If posts are sinking on you, the concrete is too wet or holes have filled with water.

You can and should put your posts in their holes and check them up to the string line with a spirit level if you are unsure if the post holes were dug in the right place. It can be very frustrating when holes are not checked for accuracy and then filled with cement. You’ll find that you’re trying to stick posts in the dirt surrounding the dug hole, but they’re buried in cement. When this happens, pull the post, re-dig the hole, and try to catch up with your crew!

On sloping terrain it is sometimes necessary to intentionally set posts high with the height markings exposed. The chain link height is actually higher when measured diagonally. When in doubt, measure the square with the bias to estimate the finished height of the fabric. Chain link is remarkably versatile and can be installed on any terrain. Fence tip: If in doubt, leave the post high and cut it off later. This is a lot easier than trying to increase the height of a chain link fence post!

After the chain link fence posts have been “clamped” in place, check that the cement level is correct. If the concrete level is too low, you should pour more cement. Fence Tip: Avoid pushing away your leader line to fill holes with cement when someone else is using it to ‘glue’ posts!

Set the posts to the depth of the grading mark first. Be sure to place fence posts close to buildings where animal containment is important.

Step 7 – After setting each post for the slope, backfill with soil and step on the backfill to hold the post level. Repeat for all posts in that fence length.

After “pogging” the post into the hole with concrete mix, fill it up with loose dirt. Lower the post while stepping on dirt around the post. This will help keep the post vertical in the hole.

Step 8 – View Post. To “see” inside posts, stand at the end of the fence and look over the tops of the posts. Adjust the height of the posts as needed to accommodate gradual pitches and changes in grade. The goal is to have smooth transitions between posts and avoid sharp changes. This is easiest to do with two people: one person sights the post while the other aligns and checks the post plummet. Be sure to check each post plumb after adjusting and observe the grading mark as noted above.

Once the posts are level, look over the tops of the erected posts and raise or lower them slightly to level the top of the fence. Remember, if you bury your grade mark slightly on one or more posts, plan to dig the same amount for the chain link fabric. The grade marks represent the bottom of the chain link fence. If your grade mark is 4 inches off the ground, that is your fence and you can fill in underneath.

Note: Although most fences are simply installed to be level or flow with the contour of the terrain, some applications are better off being perfectly level, e.g. If excavation, grading or asphalt/concrete is to be poured later or is already in place, the fence may need to be installed perfectly level. If this is the case, sifting with grade marks, using a plumb line with a spirit level, or a crossbar helps immensely.

Step 9 – Install gate posts with the exact opening size as recommended by the gate supplier or manufacturer. The opening dimension is the distance between the two goal posts from the inside to the inside. If possible, level the tops of the goalposts by placing a post over the tops of the posts and checking with a spirit level. If the ground below the goal drops sharply, level the goal posts. It won’t look right to level them.

Step 10 – Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding with work.

Installation of post fittings:

Typical diagram for attaching terminal posts

View of the bottom support strap for the bottom wire and four tension straps for a 5 foot high chain link fence. View is from the inside of the fence. Note that the straps are offset so that the flat side faces out.

End post with tightening strap screwed to rail end cap. All nuts face the inside of the chain link fence casing.

Combo rail end caps (with holes in them for truss rods) can be used for the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail to connect the fence rail to the end posts.

Proper installation of rail end caps and strut tape for a chain link fence corner post. Note that one is facing up and the other is facing down. This means that the upper rail can also remain at such an intersection.

A chain link turnbuckle with nut and bolt and 5 turnbuckles are used for a 6 foot high chain link fence.

Here barbed wire arms are used as loop caps for a 6ft high plus 1ft barbed wire link fence.

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

Step 1 – Attach Tie Down Straps to End and Corner Posts.

Step 2 – Number of straps per hanger = fence height minus one; at least three. For example, a 4 foot high chain link fence requires three tension straps per post.

Step 3 – A hook-up is any connection of a chain link to an end or corner post. End posts have a connector; Corner posts have two connectors.

Step 4 – First attach a support strap that will be used when installing the lower guy wire. This fitting requires a standard 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ fence bolt and nut. Install the nut and bolt loosely.

Step 5 – Next, install tension straps. The straps are offset. The offset (flat side) faces out, the same side that the chain link webbing will be installed on. This is usually the outside of the enclosed area. Do not attach nuts and bolts to these.

Step 6 – Place one support band per hook-up over the tension bands. This attachment requires a rail end cap, bolt and nut. This tape and cup will be used for the top rail. Tighten with ratchet and nut.

Step 7 – The rail end cap is also relocated. This offset can be up or down on an end post. Regardless of whether you position the cup up or down, stay consistent. Since two sets of strut straps and rail end caps must share the same space at a corner, the bottom rail end cap must be moved up and the bottom rail end cap moved down. This allows the two cups to be level with each other, allowing your top rail to insert into the cups and be level with each other.

Step 8 – Usually all the nuts are kept on the inside of the fence; This prevents someone from outside from easily removing the nuts. For high security applications, the threads on the bolt can be “hammered” to prevent easy removal. To do this, use a hammer and chisel, twisting the threads on the bolt so that the nut cannot be removed.

Step 9 – Place the Post Caps onto the Posts. The end and corner post caps are simple. There is only one way to install them. The loop caps, as they are called, are offset if you look closely. The offset side faces the outside of the case; The same side as the chain link is installed. Chain link loop caps are available in aluminum or pressed steel with an electroplated finish. If barbed wire is to be installed, substitute barbed wire in place of the standard chain link fence loop caps. Chain Link 3 Wire Barbarms are available in 45 Degree Barbarm, Straight Vertical Barbarm and Adjustable Barbarm. We also stock a 6 core barbarm.

Fence Tip: You can pre-squeeze ribbons after they’ve been slid onto posts. This is essentially done by clamping tensioning straps and tensioning straps together with fence pliers. Make sure the screw holes stay aligned as you press the straps shut. Later, when you connect the chain link pulley to the end posts, you’ll be thankful that the straps were pre-compressed, as you can now put your 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nut and bolt through and thread the fence nut much easier one.

Installing the top/bottom rail:

Typical top rail assembly diagram

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

The offset of the loop cap faces outwards. This will help keep the frame flush with the fabric side of the chain link fence.

The top rail sits on top of the line posts and runs to the end posts.

1-3/8″ and 1-5/8″, popular top rail sizes, are available with curved or plain ends. Plain End Top Rail requires sleeves as shown above.

Chain link fence top rail with plain ends requires top rail sleeves. The heavy industrial top rail HF40 is only available with plain ends.

The HF20 top rail and lighter are available with a beveled end, no sleeve required.

A hacksaw, chop saw, saw tooth, pipe cutter, or portable band saw is used to cut the top rail.

Chain link fence with finished top rail. After the frame, the chain link fabric can be stretched.

Step 1 – Slide the top rail through a couple of loop caps and the butt end firmly into the rail end cap. If necessary, adjust the height of the rail end cap. Tighten rail end cap firmly.

Step 2 – Some top rails have a “bent” end that tapers down to fit another piece of rail. Fit the unkeyed end into the rail end cap on the end or corner post.

Step 3 – Add rail sections by sliding each unupset end into an upset end. Be sure to slide the rails toward your starting point to “seat” them fully into each other. Press hard. If the top rail doesn’t have a beveled end, you’ll need a “sleeve” to act as a coupler.

Step 4 – Add an additional top rail until you reach the next end post i.e. H. End, corner, goal posts.

Step 5 – Cut off excess rail with hacksaw or pipe cutter. Carefully mark the separation point so the rail fits snugly into the rail end cap. Any slack in your entire length of track will allow the chain link, when taut, to pull the end posts towards each other. Tip: Each piece of track should be supported by two posts. Do not cut the rail so that there is a seam between the last line post and the end post. This point is weak and tends to sag.

Step 6 – Install the top rail in all fence sections. At this point, visually check the height of the line posts once the top rail is installed. If a post is too tall, remove the rail and trim as needed.

Fence Tip: If a post is 1/4″ too short, you can also cut a piece of tubing the same diameter as the conduit post and slip it under the loop cap.

NOTE: Industrial construction sites occasionally substitute a top guy wire in place of the top rail to reduce costs. If this is the case, you will need to brace and guy the end posts. Read more: How to brace and tie chain link fencing.

Install guy wire:

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4

Guy wire can be installed at the top and/or bottom of a chain link fence. The top tension wire helps reduce costs when used in place of the top rail. The bottom wire helps deter animals from digging and pushing out the underside of the fabric. It is often used with vinyl coated chain links as they tend to be more elastic. When tensioned, both types of wire are attached to the chain link with hog rings. It is easiest to install if one person holds the coil of wire upright while the other “leads” the loose end to the other end of the fence. The next step is to secure the loose end to the connector post with a tie wrap and nut and bolt. The loose end is fed through the stud and wrapped around the wire itself (Figs. 1 & 2). The lower tension wire is installed on the same side of the posts as the chain link fabric (Fig. 4). Once the chain link is stretched, the lower tension wire is “pinched” between the line/intermediate posts and the chain link fabric (Fig 10). When used as a top wire, thread the guy wire through the loop caps and connect to each connector post.

Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8

Guy wire is most commonly stretched with a come-a-long and wire grip. Do not wrap the Come-a-long cord around the post (Fig. 5). This repeated action will result in the cable becoming frayed and destroyed. Instead, a “sling” of rope or cable can be made to wrap around the expansion post (Fig. 6). Unthread and pull out 6-10 feet of cable from the carriage. The length of the cable to be pulled out depends on the length of the tension wire. Hook a cable puller to the ratchet end of the Come-A-Long. Fasten the tensioning wire to the cable (Fig. 7). Rotate the Come-a-long handle until the tension wire is taut (Figs. 7 & 9). Do not overtighten, otherwise damage or injury may result.

Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 12

With the Come-A-Long cranked tight, bend the guy wire where it would loop into the nut and bolt. Next, cut 6-8 inches past that bend with bolt cutters. Be careful as both ends of the wire can ‘whip’ from the tension and be dangerous. Fish the looped end of the wire through the nut and bolt and wrap as before. Unlock long wire, repeat process for other fence runs. Note: Short lengths, approximately 12′ and less, are difficult to make with a long wire. These are often simply made by hand. The tension wire, of course, has crimps in it. With the use of pliers in their open position, these crimps can be crimped further, making the wire tighter (Fig. 8). Be sure to crimp the entire length for a consistent look.

Figure 13 Figure 14 Figure 15 Figure 16

Once the guy wire is installed, the chain link fabric can be stretched. The chain link is installed to end posts with tension rods, tension straps and nuts and bolts. Often one end is installed with the roller upright for convenience (Fig. 14). The roll can then be laid flat on the floor and rolled to the other end. Additional rolls can easily be added and weaving is done easily on the flat ground. The chain link is stretched for longer distances (20 feet or more) with an extension and spreader bar. For shorter distances (20 feet or less) a pul-jak is used (Fig. 15). Because tension bands are installed equidistant from each other, typically the lower brace band that holds the tension wire can be adjusted so that the tension wire is centered on the lower diamond of the fabric. The top rail, line posts are tied last. Hog rings are installed to secure the guy wire to the chain link fabric using hog ring pliers.

Stretching Chain Link Fabric:

Hang the chain link fence from one end post and unroll it to the other end. It is best to lay out chain link rollers flat for longer distances.

Tension the chain link fence using a turnbuckle, a cross-country skid, and a turnbuckle.

For longer stretches of fence, you have to step up.

A Pul-Jak is the ideal tool for short sections of fence. Remove a fabric to “cut” the fabric to the correct length.

Secure straps with 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nuts and bolts. Adjust the height before tightening. Inside view of the fence: Note that the flat side of the tension strap is facing out, the nut is on the inside.

Adjust the height carefully before tightening the nuts and bolts.

Make sure the top chain link is centered on the bar before tying.

The finished chain link fence.

Step 1 – Start at one end of a fence line and roll the chain link on the outside of the fenced area or side you previously selected.

Step 2 – Unroll another roll if more is needed to reach the next end post. The chain link is stretched in a continuous length of woven chain link from end post to end post.

Step 3 – “Weave” chain link rolls up. This can be a little tricky if you’ve never done it before and requires some explanation.

Each weave is continuous from top to bottom along the vertical or height of the roll. If you follow the strand, starting at the top, you will see that it zigzags back and forth downwards. It begins and ends with either a “knuckled” or a “twisted” ending.

To remove a tissue, straighten the end of the tissue knuckle. Unbend the adjacent tissue tied to it. If it has a twisted end, simply twist the two weaves until they can be separated.

Follow the weave to the other end as it zigzags back and forth and loosen or untie the opposite end. Be sure you follow carefully so that you undo the correct weave.

Twist the webbing at the top or bottom of the fence counterclockwise as if trying to unscrew it from the roll. Most newly manufactured links rotate counter-clockwise, while some links manufactured years ago rotate clockwise. Keep twisting and you will see the other end detach from the adjacent ties. If you’re having trouble, you may have separated the wrong tissues on the other end. Also check to see if you’ve straightened the other end or if it’s snagging when you try to twist it. Another problem that can arise is that the chain link is too tight; relax a little.

The process of weaving two rolls together is exactly the opposite, except that it can be difficult to get started. It is easiest to weave two rolls together when they are lying flat on the ground, but rolls can also be woven together in an upright position.

Begin weaving: links of chain form squares, or “diamonds” as they are commonly called. You must join two sections or rolls together before you start weaving so that one roll has a full diamond and the other roll has a half diamond. This game is located at the top and bottom of the reels. Adding a weave will end up with a full diamond and two ends that you can knuckle or twist.

Many spools of chain link have a loose wire in the spool. Use this to join two reels together or remove a wire from one of the reels to splice with. Twist the single weave into the first full diamond. Spin it through the next full diamond on the other reel. Continue twisting, making sure the weave end goes through each full diamond on each pulley with each twist.

If you are having trouble, it may be due to one or more of the following reasons: your chain link is too tight; loosen up a bit. You missed a diamond somewhere; unravel and try again. Last. You may have mismatched reels made by different manufacturers or the reels have different mesh sizes. Count the number of full diamonds in each roll, they should match in number and size.

After successfully weaving the two rolls together, twist or knot the ends back together. If you don’t have a backing fabric to attach, you started with either two half diamonds on each roll or two full diamonds on each roll. Take it apart and try again. Sometimes you need to flip a roll (most have a half diamond on one end and a full diamond on the other) or remove a fabric from a roll to create an initial half or full diamond.

Step 4 – After unrolling the chain link and weaving the rollers together, connect one end. Distribute the straps evenly as shown above (Fig. F51). Make sure the nuts are on the inside of the fence so they can’t be removed from outside the enclosure.

If you have a strong slope approaching an end post, the fabric will need to be trimmed at the end. This is called a bevel cut. Read more: How to preload chain links.

Step 5 – Hand tighten the chain link to the other end. You can stand the chain link up and lean against the posts, or leave it on the floor and lean it up while you stretch the fabric later. In general, the later is lighter and better over long distances.

Step 6 – Connect the stretching tools as shown on the inside of the fence (Fig. F51). Slide a tie rod 10-12′ vertically into chain link webbing; Hook the stretch bar inside.

Step 7 – Make sure the hook for the extension is pointing away from the fabric or it may get caught in the diamonds.

Step 8 – Slowly tighten the Come-A-Long. Make sure the fabric does not catch on posts, tree roots, or other obstacles.

Step 9 – Pull on the fabric as you tighten it. During “dressing” the fabric diamonds are straightened so that they run smoothly. This is important for heavier fabrics. Some points will be higher than others as you look up. Lift the fabric at the lower points. This must be done before the fabric becomes too tight. Once set, little can be done to flatten the fabric. Some fabrics dress easily, some don’t. If the fabric doesn’t tighten properly, you can always untie the Come-A-Long and try again. Check the top and bottom diamonds for wires that may not be shaped correctly. Lift and shake the fabric to ensure even tension across the entire roll(s).

Step 10 – The fabric is stretched enough when you can’t pinch the diamonds together with one hand. Do not overstretch, otherwise damage will occur. The top of the fence should snap back against the post when pulled out a little.

Step 11 – Hand stretch the small section of chain link that remains between the Come-A-Long and the End Post. Remove a fabric to “cut” the fabric to the correct length. Slide the tie rod into the mesh and make your final connection. Once all the screws are in place, remove the tension tools.

Tying down the fence:

Step 1 – First attach the zip ties to the top rail to set the height of the fence. The top diamond of the chain link should be centered on the top rail. – First attach zip ties to the top rail to set the height of the fence. The top diamond of the chain link should be centered on the top rail. Step 2 – Space the zip ties evenly and no more than 2 feet apart. Step 3 – Post the connecting line last. Use the same number of cable ties per conductor post as tension bands per terminal. This amount is at least 1 per foot.

Installing Chain Link Gates:

There are many different types of hinges and latches on the market today for use with chain link doors. Most are self-explanatory and do not include installation instructions. Installation instructions usually accompany the more complicated hinges and latches.

Individual swing gates:

Basic hardware for swing gates

Step 1 – Install female hinges on gates with nuts and bolts. Again, nuts should be installed on the inside of the case. Space them as far apart as possible.

Step 2 – Hold the gate in the opening and mark the position of the male hinges. Point the bottom male hinge up and the top down.

Step 3 – Assemble the bottom and top outside hinges with screws. Tighten the bottom hinge, but leave the top hinge loose.

Step 4 – Place the gate on the bottom hinge and lower the top male hinge into the female hinge.

Step 5 – If the space under the gate is acceptable. Tighten the top pin hinge securely.

Step 6 – Test the gate to see if it misses the ground. Adjust as needed.

Step 7 – Tighten all hinge bolts. Don’t overdo it.

Step 8 – Mount the latch at a comfortable height (nuts inside).

double swing gates:

For double wing gates, you should assemble the gate closest to the ground first, unless the ground is perfectly level. Attach the second tier of gates to the first. Although you can “step down” the gates for a tight fit on the ground, installing them at the same height looks best.

Follow steps 1-7 from above to hang the gates. After that, follow the steps below to lock the gates together.

Drop Rod & Center Stops

Step 8 – Assemble the double gate drop bar/latch assembly.

Step 9 – Install the center stop for the double swing gate. Close the double gate, making sure the two wings are aligned (straight with fence line). Mark the floor where the center stop needs to be installed. You can simply use a cut piece of pipe as a center stop by driving it into the ground. Proceed slowly and check the gate to make sure you are driving the pipe straight. You can also use a pre-made center stop and cement it in for a better look. If the center stop is in a concrete drive, simply drill a hole in the concrete larger than the drop rod diameter. Be sure to drill through the concrete drive to allow the water to drain. Always make a much larger hole (or pipe size) than the drop rod diameter to allow for gate sag, jamb shifting, ice and other factors.

Optional step – Install gate holdbacks if desired. Open gate(s) to desired “open” position. Cement or drive a 2″ OD post a few inches past this point. Install the restraint at the correct height using the supplied U-bolts.

Final Step – Install all of the post caps.

sliding gates:

Cantilever gate with chain links

Roller shutter with chain links

Read more: Overview of Cantilever Chain Link Gate System | Chain Link Boom Installation Guide | Overview of the chain link roller door system