Cherry Tree Netting Uk? The 146 Top Answers

Pests can sometimes be a problem with fruit trees. So I planted a permaculture cherry tree guild to reduce pests through ecosystem development.

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When I first started growing cherry trees using a permaculture design, I had no idea how many things I had to consider. It seems like you just buy a fruit tree and throw it in the ground!

However, I soon realized that the more I did to develop a mini-ecosystem around my fruit trees from the start, the lower maintenance and more productive they would be in the long run.

When pests showed up in the second year of my fruit trees, I had to quickly think about why my mini-ecosystem wasn’t working. (Hint: This story has a happy ending!)

Choosing the right cherry trees

First, a note on choosing the right cherry tree species for your climate:

According to Lee Reich, garden consultant and author of Landscaping with Fruit, tart cherries are adaptable to a wider range of climate and soil types than sweet cherries.

Also, they tend to self-pollinate, while other cherry trees tend to need a companion tree for pollination.

I grow tart cherries because they tend to be more hardy, disease resistant, and tolerant of my Ohio wet summers and clay soil. Humid climates can be detrimental to many types of fruit trees. I grow the variety “Northstar” in my garden.

Tart cherries grow well in zones 4-8.

Sweet cherries, on the other hand, grow best west of the Rockies, in zones 5-9, where the air is drier and the soil tends to drain better, according to Reich.

Note: I planted my dwarf sour cherries in the park strip between the sidewalk and the road. It was a useful way to utilize that unused patch of grass, especially since it’s the sunniest spot in the garden! Read more about my adventures of planting on the park strip!

A lot of people worry that tart cherries are too tart, but I’ve found that they have the perfect amount of sweetness. However, cooking or baking will soften the taste.

Form a cherry tree guild

A fruit tree guild is a permaculture technique in which a combination of plants enhances the production of a primary crop. In this case, our main crop is the cherry tree, and the underplantings work together to build a healthier fruit tree that may be more resistant to pests and diseases.

This ultimately means a bigger, healthier harvest!

Guild plants are chosen for their ability to fertilize, mulch, attract pollinators, repel pests, and more. Often a plant is chosen because it is multifunctional, i. H. Has stacking features to reduce the number of plants needed under the fruit tree.

There is no magic recipe for planting fruit tree guilds, so it’s important to research which plants will support each fruit tree’s growth.

The plants that do well in a cherry tree guild may differ from others due to differences in climate, exposure to sunlight, and soil type, among other factors. Therefore, research what nutrients the fruit tree needs in your soil type and what pests and diseases it might be susceptible to.

For example, to attract more pollinators, choose flowers that bloom just before and after your particular fruit tree blooms. (More pollinators = more cherry blossom pollination = more cherries!)

See my How to Build a Permaculture Fruit Tree Guild article for more general information and more tips in 5 steps for planting fruit trees.

Want to grow fruits, vegetables, and herbs in your front yard landscape without sacrificing curb appeal? Check out my e-book, The Permaculture Inspired Edible Landscape.

1: Cherry tree guild plants that fertilize, mulch and attract pollinators

Many plants are said to be rich in nutrients and make an excellent fertilizer or mulch for fruit trees. They get nutrients from the soil and accumulate them in their leaves. When the leaves die off or are cut and dropped, they fertilize the soil (and with it the shallow-lying fruit tree roots).

Some plants I’ve grown in cherry tree guilds to fertilize, mulch, and attract beneficial insects are:

chives

Comfrey

dandelion

chamomile

lupine

white clover

Other helpful articles on choosing cherry tree house plants:

2: Cherry tree guild plants that prevent diseases and pests

Cherry trees are susceptible to various types of fungal diseases. Look for anti-fungal herbs to plant around the tree for support. Some of my favorites are:

chives

chamomile

oregano

marigold

The oriental fruit moth, clouded plant bug, and cherry fruit fly are common pests of cherry trees. They can be controlled by attracting beneficial insects with plants such as:

chamomile

coriander

daisy

sweet Alyssum

birds

Surprisingly, I found that the birds don’t bother my cherry trees much. Learn how I gardened while welcoming birds into my yard.

However, you may need to nett your trees to get a harvest. I like the idea of ​​leaving one tree for the birds and catching/harvesting from the others and then changing the “giving” tree each year.

My cherry tree guilds and what happened when I had a pest infestation

I originally planted chives, comfrey, and calendula in my cherry tree guilds to serve a variety of functions. I didn’t consider my guilds “done” at this point. Rather, I wanted to watch them over time and add Guild Plants as I found what the trees needed.

I got my chance to discover their true needs in sophomore year when I had a pest infestation. In early July, the leaves began to turn yellow and it seemed like something was eating them.

Upon closer inspection, there were small insects on the undersides of the leaves with black dots that appeared to be feces.

I consulted many resources but this pest was not a typical cherry tree pest. It turned out to be the Hawthorn Lace Bug, which also attacked a nearby hawthorn tree.

A good old Google search told me that the natural predators for the Hawthorn Lace Bug (evil) are the green lacewing and assassin bug (useful good).

Here I have to become a detective and figure out how to attract the good guys. I noticed that my nearby plum tree was unaffected by the pest and that it was underplanted with daisies. Daisies are said to attract the beneficial insects mentioned above.

So I dug up some daisies and planted them under my cherry trees.

I also wondered if a nutrient deficiency could explain why my cherry trees were too weak to control the pest. So I seeded white clover to give my trees a source of nitrogen.

Then I waited. An ecosystem needs time to establish itself and do its job!

drum roll please…

In my fourth year of harvest, I grew 27 pounds of cherries from completely pest-free (and chemical-free) trees!

Would you like to learn more about improving the biodiversity of your permaculture garden to reduce maintenance and increase yield?

You can find loads of information like this in my award-winning book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.

What to do with a pest infestation in your fruit tree guilds?

Their unique growing conditions can mean unique problems that can only be solved through unique solutions. Keep an eye out for pests or diseases over time.

If you see a pest, DON’T PANIC! Don’t rush for the next pesticide.

When my cherry trees became infested with pests, I followed the steps below to manage the situation. Not only did I get rid of the pest naturally, but I also strengthened the mini-ecosystems to prevent future outbreaks.

1: Identify the pest/disease

Search the internet, fruit tree growing guides and consult local fruit tree experts to identify the pest/disease before taking any action. This database of useful insects and pests is a good place to start.

2: Discover the beneficial insects that prey on the pest

Consult your resources above to find the natural predators preying on the identified pest. For example, a search for “useful insecticides for oriental fruit moths” will lead to this website.

There I learn that ground beetles are an important beneficial insect that I need to attract to my cherry tree guild in order to control this pest.

In case of illness, find the anti-fungal plants or essential oils that are safe to use on your fruit crops.

3: Attract the necessary beneficials

After identifying the pest and the pest’s natural enemy, research how to attract these beneficial insects to your fruit tree guild.

When I searched “how to attract ground beetles” I found this article with some helpful tips.

Provide the food plants and habitat your beneficial insects need. Feel empowered to be your own detective and discover the nuances that make up your unique garden!

4: Is your cherry tree guild lacking a specific nutrient?

Nutrient deficiencies can weaken plants and make them more susceptible to pests and diseases. What are the most common nutrient deficiencies for your local soil? Contact your local branch office (free of charge!).

Cherry Tree Guild Shopping List

summary

Getting your cherry tree guild just right takes observation and trial and error, as every situation is unique. Become a detective so you can create a mini ecosystem that will do all the work for you!

What did you plant in your cherry tree guild? Have you made any adjustments over time?

CONTINUE READING:

Would you like birds in your orchard? Some species can be very damaging to fruit and berry crops and you should keep these birds away from your fruit trees. But other bird species can also be beneficial. These are the birds that eat insects and help keep insect pest populations under control.

In this article we will review which birds you would like to have in your orchard. And we will talk about the bird bandits that you should keep away from your fruit trees and other crops.

A birdhouse designed to attract beneficial birds to protect fruit trees from insect pests. (Image credit: Mary Nelson)

useful birds in your orchard

At Orchard People, we encourage fruit growers to install birdhouses in their orchards to attract bug-eating thrushes or tree swallows. Every day these birds eat a variety of flying pests that can ruin the fruit of your growing trees.

For example, during the growing season, eastern thrushes eat massive amounts of insects, including snails, maggots, caterpillars, insect larvae, moths, and mosquitoes. Many of these insects damage fruit trees, so eastern thrushes help control fruit tree pest populations. Tree swallows have a similar diet and help keep pest populations in check. (Check out this post on how to attract beneficial birds to your yard.)

Cultivation of fruit trees:

A Beginner’s Guide Learn fruit tree pruning, feeding, and pest and disease prevention with our mini-course. $39 USD for a limited time only.

LEARN MORE

Bandit Birds: The ones you want to keep out of your fruit trees and berry orchards

Yet anyone who grows fruit knows that birds can be a nuisance even in an orchard as they peck at the fruit on your trees and berry plants. Some common bird bandits include red-winged blackbirds, cedar waxwings, American robins, common grackles, house finches, and European starlings.

Red-winged blackbirds have a varied diet, but they enjoy eating berries and fruits during the growing season. Photo credit: Unsplash.

How do you keep birds away from your fruit trees or berry plants?

Over the years, researchers have developed various methods of integrated pest management to keep birds away from our crops. Learn all about this science and how to apply it in our Integrated Pest Management for Fruit Trees online course.

Watch this video on YouTube. Exclusion nets are a tool used to protect fruit trees from bird and insect damage. Watch this video to see City Fruit Seattle volunteers attach a net to a fruit tree. After the petals fall, a net should always be put on. Video credit: City Fruit Seattle

But here are some approaches that commercial and other growers use:

Plant fruit crops away from common nesting and perching sites such as woods and hedges.

Use exclusion netting. After pollination, trees or shrubs are covered with barrier netting to prevent insects and birds from accessing the growing and ripening fruit. You can also use garden netting to cover growing clusters of fruit.

Installation of battery-powered, electric, or solar-powered sonic scarers that emit bird distress calls or other sounds that repel birds. One option is Birdbusters’ Screech Owl, which looks like an owl and makes the sounds of birds in distress.

Use visual deterrents to scare away birds. An inexpensive and easy option is reflective deterrent tape, which you tie to branches or attach to posts. The ribbon flutters in the wind, repelling birds by reflecting light.

Dancing scarecrows have also become popular with commercial breeders. These are the blast signs that car dealerships use, but studies show they harm birds of fruit trees and vineyards.

Attracting natural predators that hunt birds to the site. Breeders can install owl nest boxes to encourage the owls to prey on the unwanted birds. Some orchards hire companies that bring in trained birds of prey to address your bird problem and scare away bird bandits.

If none of these methods work for you, you can always distract the bird bandits by installing a squirrel-proof bird feeder somewhere far from your orchard. Let the birds stock up on seeds, grains and nuts so they leave your fruit trees and berry plants alone!

Some commercial growers use inflatable scarecrows to prevent birds from damaging their crops. Photo credit: OrchardPeople.com.

A small footnote: birds and wildlife are smarter than many of us give them credit for. Some of these methods may work for a few weeks, but when the birds figure out what’s going on, they may return to scavenge on your growing fruit.

For much more information, Cornell University has published a great article on bird management strategies that highlights the extent of the damage birds can do and how to prevent it.

Please Note: This page contains affiliate links, which means Orchard People may receive a small commission at no cost to you if you make a purchase. By shopping through us, you support our mission to create free fruit tree care resources including our blog, YouTube videos and podcasts.

When Carlos Martinez del Rio first heard about fruit growers spraying sugar on their cherries to control birds, he thought it was a prank.

The University of Wyoming zoologist first postulated in his 1995 doctoral thesis that certain birds’ inability to digest sucrose might make sugar a viable pest control option. Few took him seriously, he reminded himself.

Today, however, sugar as a bird repellent is one of the fruit industry’s worst-kept secrets, particularly in Washington. “I’m so happy about it,” said Martinez del Rio when Good Fruit Grower told him about the practice. He plans to fly to Washington this year to photograph sugar applications.

Part home remedy, part amateur ornithology trick, growers in Washington have developed a fairly widespread practice of spraying sugar water in their orchards as their fruit ripens to repel birds like starlings and robins.

“It’s phenomenal,” said Eric Olson, an orchardist in the Yakima, Washington, area.

We’re talking about normal cane sugar that you stir into your coffee. It works best with cherries, but apple growers have had pretty good luck with their Honeycrisps, Fujis, and Galas.

Some have used it for blueberries.

Of course, nothing completely prevents bird damage. Most breeders emphasize the importance of a variety of controls, which include reflective tape, scare guns, and other tactics.

Still, “Sugar was probably our most effective tool,” said Denny Hayden, a grower from Pasco, Washington.

The inexpensive trick works because these bird species, which are among cherry growers’ most hated pests, cannot digest regular table sugar. It doesn’t kill the birds, just gives them stomach pains and some diarrhea. Growers have observed flocks of starlings — actually, marbles — descending on their freshly sweetened harvest, then quickly learning to leave the fruit alone.

So growers buy a lot of sugar – where else? — Costco. Early on, they bought it in 25-pound bags. But when shelves ran empty, the retailer arranged for pallet-by-pallet delivery of 50-pound packs direct to farm stores. Most growers pay less than 50 cents a pound.

Some mix it with other chemicals like fungicides to reduce costs even further.

“I’m shocked every year that it keeps working,” said Marty Kers, orchard consultant at D&M Chemical in Moxee, Washington.

Here’s why. Some bird families do not secrete an enzyme that would allow them to digest disaccharide sugars. Sucrose is the most common disaccharide and is widely available as table sugar. Starlings and robins, two of the most common fruit pests, are members of this family.

On the other hand, fructose, a form of simple sugar or monosaccharide, doesn’t work. These birds can digest it, and the fruit they even try to eat contains fructose.

Mysterious origins

How this knowledge became a standard technique is unclear. In Washington, most growers and plant advisors seem to have heard it all from someone else’s word of mouth.

“It doesn’t matter,” Kers said. “You can’t patent it.”

Kers first heard the idea from a breeder a good 15 years ago and openly called it nonsense. About eight years later, another grower desperately asked for his advice, so they set up a small sugar trial on a 10-acre block of Lappins in Tieton, Washington. To her surprise, it worked. Kers now orders sugar in bulk and delivers it to his growers along with the other products.

At one point, Kers mentioned sugarbird control in passing to Alan Knight, an entomologist at the US Department of Agriculture laboratory in Wapato, Washington. Knight had used sugar to supplement his yeast during some trials with spotted winged Drosophila, but tested the bird control theory in an orchard and saw good results. However, he diverted credit. “It wasn’t me,” he said. “I didn’t develop it.”

Knight then mentioned sugar to Cragg Gilbert, President of Gilbert Orchards in Yakima. Gilbert tried it on a 12-acre orchard near his home that was under a lot of pressure. “They were just taking half the harvest,” he recalled.

In fact, the starlings started dodging the block. Five days later, the birds tried again, and he had to reapply. Gilbert continued to expand the uses of sugar to other blocks and now it is his primary method of bird control.

The sugar appears to have few undesirable effects. It causes stickiness among order pickers, but he hasn’t heard any complaints from warehouses. Many orchards hydrocool cherries before they are shipped to the warehouses anyway.

He suggests breeders take their time, as the birds need to eat enough to get sick before they learn, something robins do more slowly than starlings. “They’re not all that smart birds, I guess, and they love cherries,” Gilbert said.

In Gilbert’s experience, the trick that works better with cherries than with apples is Honeycrisp. Starlings peck through the apple peel and eat the fruit from the inside. Gilbert doesn’t use sugar on grapes because they aren’t washed before processing and the extra sugar would interfere with fermentation.

Concords grapes don’t have a starling problem, said Mike Concienne of the National Grape Cooperative, which owns the Welch’s brand. Concords naturally produce methyl anthranilate, the active ingredient in many chemical bird repellents used on corn, rice, and golf courses.

The practice is most popular in Washington. Researchers and breeders have reported low usage in Michigan, New York, Oregon, and California.

Science

The scientific paper on sugar as a bird repellent dates back to the 1990s.

Martinez del Rio, the Wyoming zoologist, often appears in bibliographies. In his dissertation, co-authored with a US Department of Agriculture researcher, APHIS, he suggested that the monosaccharide indigestion of starlings and robins might warrant further studies on the potential for breeding fruits with higher concentrations of sucrose. It never occurred to him to just spray sugar out of a tank, he said.

Marvin Pritts, a Cornell University researcher who recommended using sugar applications for bird control in blueberries following his 1997 paper, had a similar reaction. “It’s fantastic that it’s being used,” he said. “After all these years, someone is finally picking it up.”

Support was not universal.

Washington State University horticulturist Leonard Askham wrote in a 1996 article that sugar treatments made no difference in deterring birds from eating fruit.

Askham, now Professor Emeritus, is a director of Bird Shield Repellent Corp., a Pullman, Washington company that manufactures a chemical repellent using methyl anthranilate as the active ingredient.

He has published research on the product on other crops including corn and sunflower. He declined to comment when reached by Good Fruit Grower, only to say the company is out of business and is for sale.

Michigan State University researchers conducted a small pilot study of blueberries in 2013, but didn’t notice enough effects to pursue the topic further, said Catherine Lindell, associate professor of integrative biology.

Growers are hoping that a researcher will take a close look at the anecdotal evidence and come up with some recommendations for potency, amounts, and timing. Most growers mix the sucrose in amounts between 8 and 25 pounds per 100 gallons of water per acre. Olson notes that’s not nearly enough. He uses 400 pounds to 400 gallons for use on a single acre.

“You don’t have to save a lot of cherries for this to pay off,” he said. •

Simple solution, complex rules Spraying table sugar on cherries and apples can be an easy way to prevent bird damage. Rules of practice are not so simple. State and federal officials have had mixed, and sometimes nebulous, answers as to whether growers can legally use sugar to repel birds. “It’s not just a simple yes or no,” said Dale Mitchell, pesticide program manager for the Oregon Department of Agriculture. US Environmental Protection Agency regulations list sucrose sugar as one of several commonly consumed food products that are exempt from tolerance limits, as long as they are used with good agricultural practices. However, the EPA often gives in to state officials. New York doesn’t allow the practice because sugar isn’t labeled by the EPA. “The state Environmental Protection Act does not provide an exemption from registering pesticides for use in natural products unless the active ingredient is listed in the law as a minimal-risk pesticide,” said Lori Sevino, a spokeswoman for the state Environmental Protection Department. “Sugar is not on that list; therefore, it cannot be used as an active ingredient under the ECL.” Growers in New York are not upset about this, however. Those who tried it experienced mediocre results, which they attributed to the dampness of their condition. Some also feared that using sugar in an area with heavy early morning dew would exacerbate rot problems. Anything used to control pests is technically a pesticide, but regulators in Washington, Oregon, and California are more concerned with distribution. “A grower could use sugar water for their own crop and not violate state or federal laws because the grower is not ‘distributing’ an unregistered pesticide,” said Hector Castro, a spokesman for the Washington Department of Agriculture. The state does not endorse pesticides, labeled or not. That includes sugar, he said. “But in most cases, its use would not violate state or federal law.” California had a similar reaction. “We would only regulate it if someone premixed sugar water,” said Craig Cassidy, a spokesman for the California Department of Pesticide Regulation.

Growers in Oregon and Michigan don’t typically use sugar for bird control, university researchers said.

– by Ross Courtney

You have two options when installing netting. You can make a frame to keep the netting away from the branches, or you can drape the netting directly over the tree. The use of a frame prevents birds from pecking at the outside of the tree for fruit, which would rest on a net draped over the canopy. Creating a frame takes time and must be done for all your fruit trees. If you choose to drape the netting over the tree, tie it around the trunk to prevent squirrels or birds from getting to your fruit or nuts from the trunk of the tree.

Ah, spring. The sun is peeping out more often, the birds are singing their morning songs again and your trees are slowly sprouting new flowers and fruit.

And then… the temperature changes. A late spring frost is troublesome for all trees, but fruit trees are particularly susceptible.

That’s why it’s important to keep an eye on the forecast and act quickly to protect your trees when a spring frost is expected. Read below to learn how to protect fruit trees from frost.

How to protect fruit trees from late frost

Some fruit trees tolerate the cold better than others, but all need protection from possible frost damage. How to protect fruit trees from frost:

How to protect citrus trees from late frost: Citrus trees are certainly the most sensitive of the bunch. To protect smaller trees, set stakes in the ground around the tree and drape it with a sheet, burlap, fruit tree frost blanket, plastic, or other cloth before freezing during the day. Make sure the cover reaches the floor. A cover is used to keep heat around the tree.

Citrus trees are certainly the most fragile of the group. To protect smaller trees, set stakes in the ground around the tree and drape it with a sheet, burlap, fruit tree frost blanket, plastic, or other cloth before freezing during the day. Make sure the cover reaches the floor. A cover is used to keep heat around the tree. How to protect peach trees from late frost: You can also cover your peach trees with a sheet or blanket. Just like with citrus, cover during the day to allow heat to build up before an overnight freeze.

You can also use a sheet or blanket for your peach trees. Just like with citrus, cover during the day to allow heat to build up before an overnight freeze. How to protect apple trees from late frost: Compared to other types of fruit, apple trees actually tolerate cold quite well. Even so, you should shield them with a cover.

According to the University of California Department of Agriculture and Natural Resources, you should keep mulch, ground cover, and weeds as far off the ground around the trees as possible because bare, moist soil radiates more heat than mulched soil. It is also recommended to water trees before a possible frost as water gives off heat and helps protect the trees. However, if a severe frost is expected, make sure the soil is well drained and run a sprinkler slowly or water the furrow through the night.

Contact us for more tips and information. We are here to help you and answer your questions.

At what temperature should you cover fruit trees?

Plan to cover your tree when the temperature is expected to fall below 32 degrees F.

Which fruit trees survive cold weather?

Although no fruit trees are made for the cold, your plant hardiness zone can help you determine which are best suited to surviving the elements in your area.

For example, lemon trees are very sensitive to cold weather, so they need to be planted in zones 9-11, which equates to warm areas like Florida, California, or Texas. On the other hand, many pear trees actually need a cooler winter to get strong in spring, so they do best in cooler planting zones 4-8.

Find out your planting zone to see which fruit trees grow best in your area.

Factors affecting frost damage to fruit trees

Unfortunately, some fruit trees that are caught out by a late frost may lose their fresh blossoms and only sprout again the following spring. But that depends on many things, including:

The age of the tree. Frost can damage young trees much more than mature ones.

Frost can damage young trees much more than mature ones. The stage of growth. Unopened tree buds are often equipped to withstand the cold, but once a tree begins to flower, a late frost becomes more dangerous.

Unopened tree buds are often equipped to withstand the cold, but once a tree begins to flower, a late frost becomes more dangerous. The duration of the freeze. Some trees will recover if there is just a threat of frost in the spring, but as the frigid weather drags on, it becomes more difficult for the tree to survive.

If you’re concerned about the health of your fruit tree after a late frost, have your local arborist check it out.

The process of planting requires a lot of attention, hard work and patience. Getting the final crop, or end product, from your plant is a rewarding process. No one wants that reward disturbed, most commonly by birds. Fortunately, there are many methods to keep birds away. While the most popular might be bird netting, we’re here to show you the downsides of the netting and various alternatives that you can try instead.

Disadvantages of bird nets

Bird netting is known to be an effective bird deterrent, but there are many factors to consider before investing. Bird nets can prevent crop damage, but birds can manage to reach their beaks through the holes. It can also get expensive, especially to cover a large area. Other disadvantages are:

Bird netting can be expensive. When covering a large area, the costs continue to add up. This cost continues when the mesh needs to be replaced as it does not last forever and is not a permanent solution.

Netting doesn’t last forever. As the web ages, it can do more harm than good to your plants. Bird netting needs to be replaced every 3-10 years, which can be a hassle.

Requires proper installation. If not properly applied, the mesh will not be effective. This can result in birds and animals getting into your crops or potentially harming the animals. Installing and removing bird netting can be labor intensive.

risk of injuring birds. Bird nets pose a risk of birds getting caught in the wires. There have been cases of birds dying because they were caught in the net and couldn’t escape. In addition to birds, there is also a risk of other small animals or living beings becoming entangled on your property.

Possible damage to plants. Some netting provides some shading that can prevent sunlight from reaching the plants. Nets can also become attached to certain aspects of the crop and break off parts that can cause farmers to lose fruit.

See also: Do’s and Don’ts for Bird Netting

Alternatives to bird netting

Apply long-lasting bird repellent

Bird repellent spray is a lesser-known method of bird repellent, but highly effective. Bird repellent sprays stimulate the bird’s sense of taste and smell to keep them away from the surrounding area. The bird repellent spray application can be misted, aerial sprayed or ground sprayed. Bird repellent spray benefits include:

Avoidance of crop damage

Elimination of nesting

Bird attack prevention

Bird repellent spray is effective, but choosing the right one is important. One of the qualities to look for in a bird repellent spray is a non-lethal formula that is safe to use around other plants, pets, and people. It should also not alter the taste, growth, or color of the plants.

Related: Bird Control Vs. Web

scaremongering

To protect your plants from birds and other wildlife, try to deter them. There are a variety of scare tactics you can use without actually harming the birds. Some include:

Visual Deterrent: Get birds to fear your property with visual deterrents. These include windsocks, raptor decoys, and reflective surfaces. This approach sometimes works, but visual deterrents can become less effective over time. Birds can become desensitized to the visual elements and may no longer perceive these fear tactics as a threat.

Sound Machines: Different machines can produce different sounds. Some examples include sounds from a predator. This can easily scare away the birds or give the impression that the space is already taken. Sounds of desperate bird calls can be another way to scare the birds away. This tactic can be effective in protecting your plants, but the constant noise can frustrate people and wildlife in the area.

RELATED: 5 ways to protect cherries from birds

Offer alternative food sources

Instead of covering your plants with netting, try giving them something else to nibble on. Try placing seed or grain-filled bird feeders at the edge of your property. This option can prevent feathered thieves from stealing your fruit or damaging crops. Note that providing alternative food sources can sometimes attract more birds to your property and risk direct access to your plants.

The difference of a liquid bird repellent

Avian Control Liquid Bird Repellent is the most effective and efficient way to solve your bird control problems. Instead of building a net wall around your plants, Avian Control offers a more efficient bird control strategy. The liquid bird repellent comes in a variety of sizes to make it easy for you to choose the option that works best for protecting your blueberry bushes.

Protect your plants with Avian Control

Prevent birds from damaging your crops without using a single net with the help of our liquid bird repellent Avian Control. Buy an effective, safe, non-lethal solution now or contact us at 888.868.1982 for more information.

Alternatives to netting

feeding and mulching

Feed cherry trees in late winter with a high-potassium compound fertilizer such as Vitax Q4. Sprinkle two handfuls per square meter/yard around trees growing on bare ground or two and a half handfuls per square meter/yard around trees growing on grass. Then apply a liberal mulch of well-rotted manure or garden compost around the base of the tree to keep water in the soil and suppress weeds. Check out our guide to feeding and mulching fruit trees.

irrigation

Once established, cherry trees should generally not be watered except during long dry periods or in the early stages of fruit development. Newly planted trees should be watered regularly for at least the first year.

Plants in containers dry out much faster than those grown in the ground. They need careful watering throughout the summer to prevent the fruit from dropping before maturity or the leaves turning brown around the edges.

Protect flower from frost

Cherries bloom early in the year, so if frost is forecast, protect the bloom with garden fabric and remove during the day to allow pollinating insects access to the blooms.

propagation

Cherry trees are generally propagated by grafting or budding. Named varieties do not come true from seed. Trees grown from seed or cuttings are much larger trees than those grafted onto a chosen rootstock and begin fruiting more slowly.

clipping

Pruning of cherries is usually done in late July or August when silver leaf and bacterial cankers are less common, although light topiary pruning can be done in spring when the leaves begin to develop.

Cherries are usually grown as small trees (in the form of an “open bush” or “pyramid”) or as fans, facing flat against a wall or fence. Both need regular pruning to keep them in good shape and fruit well. Cherries are too vigorous to be grown as espaliers or cordons.

Keeping cherry trees compact by pruning annually makes fruit picking easier, provides protection from birds, and means the trees take up less space. Pruning also ensures there is a good balance between older fruiting wood and younger spare branches. For example, tart cherries almost all bear fruit from the previous year’s growth and therefore need to be pruned regularly to ensure a good harvest.

Fan trees grown flat against a wall take up very little floor space and are attractive and productive features. But they need careful pruning annually to keep them productive and in good shape.

Defining pruning of a bush tree with an open center

In early spring on a feathered maiden tree, select three or four well-spaced, wider side shoots (side shoots) about 75 cm (2½ feet) from the ground for the main branches and trim them by two-thirds. Cut back the central leader to just above the top side line. Remove shoots below the selected side shoots.

By the second spring the main side shoots should have produced their own side shoots, the strongest of which will need to be cut in half and pruned into an outward-facing bud to develop an open crown. Remove any weak or poorly placed shoots.

In the third spring, continue to develop a well-spaced framework.

Switch to early to mid-summer pruning in the fourth year, as with old trees. Rub out the buds that appear on the lower trunk and carefully pull off the runners that protrude from the rootstock. The cut is usually limited to removing crossings, weak, diseased material and strong growth. If the branches are still crowded, further thinning can be done.

Pruning established sour cherry bush trees

In August, remove about one in four of the older fruiting shoots to leave a younger side shoot that will replace the removed growth.

Shorten overly strong, upright shoots that crowd the center to a suitably placed side shoot.

Pruning established fans of tart cherries

In late July, thin new shoots form along the main branches 5–10 cm (2–4 in) apart, tying the retained shoots to their supports. Also prune shoots growing outward from the wall to two leaves to keep the tree flat. In late August, tie in the current season’s growth that will bloom and bear fruit next year. Then prune back fruiting shoots to a suitable side branch that can replace the removed growth. For step-by-step fan cherry pruning instructions, check out our expert guides:

Fan-trained Trees: Initial Training

Trees trained by fans: Pruning established fans

Does your flowering cherry tree look like it woke up with a bad case of bed headaches? Well, maybe it’s time to get out the pruning shears. What are the best ways to prune your flowering cherry tree?

Proper pruning of flowering cherry trees promotes flowering and fresh growth. It also removes dead branches and anomalies. You should prune your flowering cherry tree in late winter, early spring, or immediately after flowering with pruning shears while removing damaged branches.

Read on to learn the best way to prune your flowering cherry trees and when to complete the task. Even if you don’t have any tree pruning experience, you have the confidence and know-how to prune your flowering cherry tree and keep it healthy for many years to come.

Just to add – if you buy through Tree Journey’s links, we may earn affiliate commissions if you make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

Why do flowering cherry trees need pruning?

Ornamental trees like the flowering cherry need regular care to stay healthy, encourage new growth and allow the beautiful blooms to greet you each spring with radiant vitality. Without proper pruning, the tree can overgrow, branches can rub against each other and leave open wounds. This can make it look quite unattractive in your garden.

The flowers are very beautiful and can bring a pleasant scent to your garden.

Some trees, like the flowering cherry tree, also have dense growth patterns and if left alone will become too dense to be properly healthy. Pruning once a year will thin them out and help reduce the possibility of fungal growth due to increased sunlight and airflow between branches and leaves.

If you’re looking for different types of ornamental or mock cherries, check out our article here for information on the types of mock cherries and where they grow!

Pruning keeps the tree healthy

Regular pruning of your flowering cherry tree extends the life of your tree by keeping it healthy. Removing dead and infested branches allows the tree to grow more because it spends less energy on problem areas. Pruning also makes it easier to trap branches and remove branches that rub against each other, which could cause problems later.

When you prune and trim your tree properly, it keeps the canopy — the top, the leaf-covered part of the tree — open and able to receive plenty of air and sunlight. This will help the foliage and flowers resist fungal growth as the airflow removes more of the problematic spores.

Regular pruning also removes weaker branches that could break off and open the tree up to pests and infection.

Overgrown and improperly maintained trees can become weak and unhealthy. If the tree’s branches and foliage are too dense, it can weaken the tree. Dead branches can accumulate and cause further problems.

Not to mention that a tree that is not pruned properly will only look bad and unattractive.

Pruning is preventative maintenance

Pruning your trees also allows you to identify and eliminate potential problems before they manifest themselves into bigger problems. When you prune your trees, you can see if there’s anything wrong with them, much like your annual check-up at the doctor’s.

Sometimes rubbing branches can open the bark and expose the inside of the tree, leaving the area weak and susceptible to infection. With pruning, you’ll notice small signs like weakness, pests that can harm the tree, or infections that you need to remove before the tree needs professional care.

Proper pruning will not harm the tree

Pruning regularly and correctly will help strengthen the tree. Pruning removes infested and infected branches and leaves, giving the tree energy to focus on regular growth, making the tree stronger and healthier.

Trees can heal themselves faster after a proper pruning. If pruning is not continued, branches can break off, leaving hard-to-heal wounds that open the tree to infection and pests. It’s like if we get a cut and don’t treat it properly, it takes longer to heal and can cause bigger problems later.

Pruning makes the tree more attractive

Trees in the forest, growing wild, with branches everywhere, moss creeping up the trunk and dripping from the branches, have a certain rugged appeal. However, most people don’t want a wild, unruly mess in their front yards or gardens.

You bought a flowering cherry tree to show off the beautiful flowers, the attractive bark on the trunk, and the pleasing shape of the canopy. By following this guide, you can keep your tree appealing and attractive.

If you don’t prune your flowering cherry tree, it can quickly look unkempt and a major eyesore compared to the neatly trimmed hedges and lush carpet of manicured grass. Pruning your tree maintains the attractive shape, encourages more blooms and healthy, full foliage, increasing the overall appeal of your garden.

When should you prune a flowering cherry tree?

Now you know why a flowering cherry tree needs pruning, so let’s get to the proper times when you should prune your tree. Yes, there are certain times when it is beneficial to prune your tree and others when it is not advisable.

If you prune your trees at inappropriate times, you could do more harm than good. It can send your tree into shock, effectively showing growth for a season and making it look sickly. Trees have growth stages. During the winter they are dormant and grow little, if at all, while in the fall they try to store up energy for the long, cold winter.

Not all trees are created equal, and you can prune some during dormancy without harm, but in this article we’ll only focus on flowering cherry trees. If you have questions about when or how much to prune other trees on your property, please consult a professional arborist or tree specialist to answer your questions.

Below we look at the best times to prune your flowering cherry trees.

Prune cherry trees in late winter or early spring

Don’t start pruning your flowering cherry tree in late fall or early winter as the tree tries to store energy for the long dormant period. It will not have the proper time or energy to seal the open cuts created by pruning.

Wait until late winter or early spring for your area to do most of your cherry tree pruning, as the tree is about to emerge from the dormant stage and is better able to heal itself where the branches were cut. The tree will have plenty of energy at this point in the growing season to cope with pruning. This is also the time for your heavier cut.

In late winter or early spring, pruning is easier as all foliage is gone and you can see the branches better. There will be no thick canopy of leaves that will block the view. You can better see if branches are rubbing against each other, where dead wood is and if unhealthy spots need to be removed.

Cut immediately after flowering

You can also start pruning after the cherry tree has finished flowering to encourage new growth and the production of more flowers next year. However, don’t wait long after the blooms have fallen. Prune immediately after flowering or wait until next season.

Keep cutting light during this time. Simply cut off smaller branches to encourage better growth and accentuate the shape of the tree you are looking for. Leave larger branches and heavier pruning for late winter or early spring.

How to properly prune your flowering cherry tree

First, you want to step back to get a good feel for your tree and notice the natural growth patterns. Does it hang down like an umbrella, does it grow toward the sun, or does it clump out in an oval or circular shape? Outline your tree in the natural shape it will take.

This will also help you formulate a plan for pruning your tree.

Make sure you have time to step back and see the progress after each cut. It pays to be methodical, or you could end up with a crooked tree that has lost all of its beautiful appeal.

1. Remove unhealthy branches

When you prune branches or remove unhealthy branches, prune them back to a healthy part of the tree. Don’t leave a long stub sticking out as this could cause the branch to rot further. Prune back to a healthy side shoot as this will encourage the section to grow more vigorously.

If you need to remove an entire branch, you should cut it just above the collar of the branch. The branch collar is where the bark appears crumpled around the underside of the branch. You want to cut as straight as possible just above the collar of the branch so the tree will heal itself faster.

Cuts must be straight, clean and cut with the right size tool. If the cut frays, bruises, or the branch snaps when you cut it, take a larger tool and cut again.

Hand shears are only good for branches about the width of a pencil and up to half an inch. Loppers cut branches up to 1½ inches thick, while the saw cuts larger branches.

If a branch breaks during the cut, clean it up and make the cut as clean as possible to help the tree heal itself.

2. Don’t “top” your tree

“Topping” a tree refers to cutting off almost all of a tree’s growth to shorten its height or restrict its growth. This practice will severely shorten a tree’s lifespan and expose it to a multitude of problems from which it may never recover.

Trimming a tree is really never a good idea. It removes the main conductor and branches, leaving the tree wounded and unable to heal properly. This practice can also greatly shorten the lifespan of the tree.

3. Remove all dead branches

Now that you are ready to prune, look for dead or damaged shoots on your flowering cherry tree and remove those first. Once all the unwanted branches are gone from the tree, step back from the tree again to see how it looks now.

It’s easy to start trimming, get in the “zone” and then realize that maybe you’ve gotten a little overzealous. Now it looks like Charlie Brown’s Christmas tree.

4. Clean the tree canopy

Next you want to clear out the clutter and open up the canopy. You don’t want to cut off the top completely, but you do want the tree to open up. This allows the air to circulate easily through the fully leafed branches.

A good rule of thumb here is that you can see patches of sky through the canopy of your flowering cherry tree. Opening it this way also allows sunlight to penetrate the inner and lower branches and leaves. This helps the tree grow stronger, healthier, and produce more food for itself.

After each cut, stand back and look at the tree and plan your next section to cut. No rush! You wouldn’t rush a nice painting, so don’t rush pruning your tree either.

5. Remove unwanted branches

Watch out for branches crossing or rubbing against each other. Rubbing branches can open wounds and cause the tree to suffer. Cut off one of these branches to avoid further problems.

The same applies to crossing branches. They might not cause a problem now, but during a growing season the branches might start rubbing or even start growing into each other.

Other twigs to watch out for are branches that shoot straight up or water sprouts. The problem with water sprouts is that they usually grow faster than other branches on the tree and can easily break off in gusts of wind. Remove any water sprouts you see.

Any inward growing branches of the flowering cherry tree or other branches must be removed next. These types of branches only cause trouble, and it’s best to cut them off before they can.

You want branches that grow outward in uniform patterns. They need to be fairly evenly spaced, clean, and open enough to allow adequate airflow.

6. Trim any suction cups

Suckers are small branches at the base of the tree along with its root system. These suckers do exactly what they’re called – they suck energy from the rest of the tree. They are an attempt to grow more branches.

However, the problem, aside from usually looking unattractive, is that they use a lot of energy and slow down the growth of the rest of the tree.

Remove these shoots from the base of the tree and any other branches along the trunk to preserve the attractive appearance of your flowering cherry.

7. Step back and take another look

Now that you’ve trimmed the canopy, removed any dead, broken, or unusual-looking branches, and removed any shoots at the base of your tree, how does it look? Does it look slim and healthy?

Cut off any small growth that grows outside of the tree’s natural habit. You want to shape it now to make it look more attractive and unified. This part of the pruning should be light and only emphasize the tree since you did all the heavy pruning before this step.

If your tree looks appealing and you are happy with how it looks, congratulations, you have successfully prune your flowering cherry tree! Now all you have to do is tidy up the cut branches and clean and disinfect your tools for later use.

Which tools do you need for the cherry tree pruning?

Before you start chopping at your cherry tree, make sure you have the right equipment. You will need:

Hand shears or anvil shears

A pruner for branches over an inch and a half in diameter

Pruning saw for larger branches

garden gloves

Stepladder for higher branches

The THANOS A1101 Extendable Anvil Lopper is a great option when you are looking for tools to prune your larger trees. You can easily cut through branches up to 2 inches in diameter. It can also be adjusted to lengths between 27 and 40 inches to suit your needs.

If you already have these tools in your shed or garage and have used them, be sure to clean and disinfect them before cutting your ornamental cherry. You can use 70% rubbing alcohol to clean the cutting surfaces of these tools.

Disinfecting your blades before use prevents cross-contamination between trees and other plants. Once the tools are clean and sanitized, don’t forget to oil them to prevent rusting.

If you’re still uncomfortable trimming your tree, or if it’s very tall and you’re not entirely comfortable climbing a ladder, consult a professional in your area. Make sure they are experienced with ornamental trees and don’t just cut off all the branches.

Wound colors are not required

There are no doubt many tree stump sealers or wound paints in the gardening department of your local hardware store that claim to help promote the health and vitality of trees after trimming. You may have seen the black or white tell-tale marks on trees after they’ve been pruned, but you don’t need them.

They come in handy spray cans and say you need the product, but a tree is better off tending to its own wounds. Trees have their own arsenal for dealing with lacerations. If the pruning is done at the right time, it will not harm the tree and it can easily heal itself.

The article “Caring for Cherry Trees in Washington DC by the National Park Service” says they are no longer using wound paints on cherry trees! Wound paints are no longer considered an effective way to prevent or reduce rot or insect infestation on flowering cherry trees.

There you have it!

Flowering cherry trees make a beautiful addition to your yard or garden, and with a little care, they will continue to grace your space with years of beauty.

As you have read, proper pruning at the right time is beneficial to a tree’s overall longevity. Pruning keeps the tree strong, grows better, encourages more flowers and leaves, and is necessary for a tree’s longer lifespan.

Here are the 7 easy steps to prune your flowering cherry tree:

Remove unhealthy branches. Don’t “crown” your tree. Remove dead branches. Clean the treetop. Remove unwanted branches

Pruning your flowering cherry trees doesn’t have to be a daunting or monumental task. With the right tools, a little know-how and a little muscle, you can trim them yourself and keep your outdoor investment growing beautifully for years to come.

References:

Guimond, C.M., Lang, G.A., & Andrews, P.K. (1998). Timing and severity of summer pruning affect flowering initiation and shoot regrowth in sweet cherry. Hort Science, 33(4), 647-649.

Douglas, S. (2001, August). Pruning: An Introduction to Why, How and When. CT.gov – Connecticut’s official state website. https://portal.ct.gov/CAES/Plant-Science-Day/2001/Pruning

How to grow your own cherry tree

Attractive and versatile, cherry trees provide gorgeous spring color when in bloom and, in many cases, excellent fall color as well. Native to most of Europe, western Asia, and parts of northern Africa, they can be positioned in a sprawling part of the border, used as a centerpiece, grown as a feature tree, or even grown as a container. For many, cherry blossoms are characteristic of the change of season from winter to spring because of their beautiful density and lovely hue. Showy pink or white flowers are borne in clusters or racemes in April and will add a fabulous splash of color to your garden that will be the envy of your neighbors.

Cherry trees have beautiful, distinctive pink or white flowers

There are 2 main types of cherry trees – sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) and sweet cherries (Prunus avium), the latter also known as sweet cherries. Sweet cherries are sold fresh in most markets; they bloom a little earlier than sour cherries and can be eaten fresh from the tree. Tart cherries (also called sour cherries) are tangy, juicy and slightly tart, making them best for cooking and baking, but can also be eaten fresh if allowed to overripe on the tree. Sour cherries are the variety used to make delicious pies and jams. Sweet cherries need full sun for good harvests, while tart cherries can also be grown in shady locations. Self-fruiting varieties are available from both types, so that there is a suitable cherry variety for every garden and personal taste.

Recommended cherry varieties

The best types of cherries are:

Cherry avium Stella – Sweet Cherry reliably produces an abundance of dark red fruit with a deliciously juicy taste, ready to harvest in late July. Self-fertile and easy to grow, she produces an attractive display of white flowers in mid spring and is the perfect choice for those new to growing fruit trees. Stella pollinates other cherry trees that are not self-fertile.

Cherry cerasus Morello – fertile sour cherry with large, dark red fruits with a sour taste. They are ready to harvest in August and are perfect for incorporating into a variety of culinary recipes including pies, crumbles and jams. Self-fertile and reliable crop with a compact, sprawling growth habit that is very attractive during the flowering period.

fruit

Tart cherries are all self-fertile, while some sweet cherries require a pollination partner (although our recommended sweet cherry, Cherry avium Stella, is also self-fertile). Sweet cherries fruit at the base of one-year-old wood and on older wood, while tart cherries fruit along the length of one-year-old wood. Fruiting is prolific – particularly on established trees – with cherries ripening early and quickly. After your cherries swell and change color, their skin stops growing, so excess moisture absorbed through the skin can cause the fruit to crack. To prevent this, protect your fruit from the rain as it begins to develop by placing a piece of clear plastic over the top of the tree, making sure it doesn’t restrict airflow around the trunk and lower branches.

Good bloom depends on the conditions of the previous year, and good blooms, in turn, result in a heavy crop of fruit. When fruits develop, protect them from prey birds with a net or fleece. The sugar content of cherries increases dramatically in the last few days of ripening, so wait until they’re fully red before harvesting. When the fruits start to fall, they can be picked. The fruits of the Stella cherry trees should be deep red before picking. Before you pick a large number of your sweet cherries, taste if they are full of flavor and sweetness. Harvest cherries in dry weather as they ripen over the course of about a week. Cut the stalks with scissors and carefully place them in a bowl or basket to avoid bruising the fruit. Pulling off fruit with your hands is more likely to injure the fruit or the tree, resulting in infection of your tree or a lower-quality harvest. Leave the stalks on the cherries but be careful not to pluck the fruit spur from your tree as this will produce fruit year after year.

Cherries are usually ready to harvest between June and August

Cherries are an excellent fruit to grow as they are expensive to purchase and are often bruised or damaged in transit to and from the supermarket. Sweet cherries are best eaten right after picking (or with a sprinkle of sprinkles or sugar if you have a sweet tooth!). They’re a great addition to al fresco dining when the weather permits. Tart cherries, on the other hand, are too tart for most people’s tastes when eaten fresh (unless left on the tree a day or two longer to sweeten), but make excellent pies, puddings, cakes, and preserves. Both varieties are rich in fiber and vitamin C, so not only do they taste delicious, they are also good for you! If you have too much fruit due to the short harvest time, cherries can be frozen if you remove the pits beforehand. We recommend freezing on a tray before placing in plastic bags to avoid ending up with a mass of cherries sticking together that need to be eaten all at once.

Freeze cherries on a tray before placing them in plastic bags to keep them from sticking together

Tips for planting cherry trees

Cherry trees in containers can be planted any time of year when the ground is not frozen, wet or very dry after a prolonged dry spell, but planting in late winter through spring is always the best option. Bare root fruit trees should ideally be planted as soon as possible after receipt; If this is not possible, store your tree in a cool, frost-free shed or outhouse and place the roots in a bucket of water until ready to plant. Sweet cherries need full sun for good yields, while sour cherries can also be grown in partially shaded locations. All types of cherry trees have very shallow roots and therefore need well-drained soil to avoid waterlogging. They do not like shallow, sandy, or poorly drained soil. Good air circulation through the branches is also important, so make sure the location you choose will give the cherry tree enough room to grow for years to come.

If bare-root fruit trees cannot be planted immediately, keep the roots in water in a frost-free location

Start by digging up the planting site and removing any weeds. Cherry trees do not like competition from other plants, so keep the area around the tree a meter away from grass and weeds, especially when the plant is just establishing itself. Dig plenty of organic material such as leaf soil, well-rotted garden compost or manure into the planting hole. You can also sprinkle some mycorrhizal fungi at the bottom of the hole to stimulate rapid root growth. Try planting the tree in your garden at the same depth it has been growing at (this can be easily determined by noting the color change from dark to light as you move down the trunk to the roots) . For container grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and cutting the roots with scissors. Once the tree is grafted, position the inside curve of the grafting compound out of the afternoon sun. Support the tree with a stake and a tree truss. If you decide to grow your cherry tree in a container (often preferred in smaller gardens), use a soil-based potting mix such as John Innes #3.

garden maintenance

The same cherry tree garden care instructions apply whether you choose a sweet or tart variety. Apply an organic mulch every spring to keep soil moisture at a consistent level, suppress weeds, keep roots cool, and prevent damage from lawn mowers or string trimmers. Pruning and fertilizing is not recommended for the first year after planting as young trees are naturally fast growers and growing too fast has been linked to bacterial cancer. Instead, spread the branches when young to control height and encourage earlier bearing.

Mulch your cherry tree every spring to promote moisture retention and suppress weeds

Make sure to water regularly if it is dry for a long time. If a disease develops on your plant, be diligent in cleaning flowers, fruits, and leaves that may have been affected. Blossoms should be protected from late frosts and when the cherries are developing we recommend draping netting over your tree to prevent birds from stealing your precious crop. Cherries are particularly sensitive to the availability of moisture in the last 2 weeks of ripening. If the soil is too dry, the spring cherries shrivel; if it’s too wet they will crack and splinter.

clipping

Prune in the summer (never during the dormant season) when the tree is in leaf and after flowering to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease and encourage new fruiting by painting large cuts with wound paint. The goal of pruning is to create an open, well-formed, cup-shaped tree with well-spaced branches that are not crowded. In particular, branches larger than half the diameter of the trunk should be removed. Effective pruning allows light to enter the center of the tree and improves air circulation, encouraging new growth and reducing the risk of diseases like brown rot. Always prune back to an outward facing bud to encourage growth away from the center of the tree. Also, immediately after fruit picking, remove dead, diseased, damaged, drooping or weak branches, as well as crossing branches. Be careful when pruning during the dormant season as this is likely to result in infection of the tree.