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Table of Contents
What causes no spark on an outboard motor?
Engines with no spark or intermittent spark on one bank can be caused by a faulty stator. Nestled in with the stator under the flywheel is the trigger (or timer base).
Will the stator cause no spark?
The stator also performs the extremely important role of generating the power for the spark plugs in the engine. Without a stator, your motorcycle will not get any spark at all as your battery is not capable of supplying the appropriate power levels to generate a spark.
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What are the symptoms of a bad motorcycle stator? The most obvious symptoms of a bad motorcycle stator are no spark, weak spark, or intermittent spark (aka misfire). Difficult starting and a poorly running engine can also be indications that your stator needs to be overhauled or replaced.
In this article, we will look at these symptoms and their causes. We also show you how to repair your own stator and what you have to pay when buying a new stator. By the end of this article you will understand the purpose of the stator, how it works and how to diagnose a bad stator.
Bad Motorcycle Stator Symptoms
Your motorcycle’s stator is very similar to a car alternator, except the stator is just one part of an alternator. The task of the stator is to generate electricity to operate various electronics on the bike.
The stator also fulfills the extremely important role of generating electricity for the spark plugs in the engine. Without a stator, your motorcycle will not get any spark at all as your battery is unable to deliver the appropriate levels of power to produce a spark.
As a result, if your stator goes bad, your motorcycle will run very poorly. At some point your stator can prevent your motorcycle from starting at all.
The stator can be an extremely difficult component to diagnose as there are a few potential symptoms, all of which are also symptoms of other component failures. It can be very easy to get on with other things when you start to have problems and completely overlook the stator.
There are so many different signs that point to a defective stator. In general, you will find that your engine is not running as it should. This could be noticeable as soon as the motorcycle is started. If you notice that your motorcycle is very difficult to start and that the starting difficulty seems to vary with the temperature of the motorcycle, you can be fairly certain that there is a problem with the stator.
A defective stator behaves differently when it is cold than when it is hot. This is a great way to determine if your stator is failing.
If your motorcycle is running poorly, it can indicate many possible problems, a bad stator being one of those possibilities. Since the stator provides the spark for the spark plug, you could get a very weak spark if it’s not working properly. This can be constant or completely irregular and sporadic.
Driving around can occasionally misfire. This will continue to worsen until eventually you will have no spark and will not even be able to start the bike. This can make the bike very difficult to diagnose, as many of these symptoms appear when things like the battery, spark plug, or ignition are having problems.
Generally, our first thought is to assume these other components have failed and we don’t consider the stator. This makes it very difficult to find the actual problem.
There may also be other issues that arise under other circumstances. For example, you may find that your motorcycle runs fine at lower RPMs, but when you get to the higher RPMs it starts to run very rough. This is due to the high speed coil going bad in the stator. The opposite can also happen with the low speed spool. These are signs that your stator is failing.
You may also find that your bike backfires. This could be due to a bad stator. These are the things that can tell you to either repair or replace your stator.
What causes a stator to fail?
Stators can fail for a number of reasons. The first and most commonly overlooked cause is time. Everything wears out over time. The longer you have a motorcycle, the longer it is exposed to vibration, heat, cold, wind, water, etc. All of these things wear out on all components of your motorcycle.
Your stator wears out over time. Given proper care it should last a very long time, but ultimately time is no friend to any component on your bike.
The other major cause of your stator failure is current overload. This can happen if you run too many accessories at the same time. For example, when you use your headlights, heated grips, GPS, stereo, and other accessories, you need a lot more energy to keep everything going.
Your stator needs to keep up with all of these accessories, but also still need to power your spark plugs. The stator starts to work much harder and therefore produces much more power. Over time this can wear out your stator. You can actually burn the stator and rectifier by overloading it. In this case, you have no choice but to either repair or replace the device.
Can you fix a stator?
Let’s say your stator just burned itself. Can you repair the stator yourself? Or is it best to drive to a workshop? You can actually fix the stator. It requires some attention to detail, but you can do the whole thing yourself.
Complete replacement of stators can be very expensive. A new stator can cost around $300-$400, some for vintage or hard-to-find bikes can go as high as $1,500. That’s just for the part itself. Repairing the stator can save you quite a bit of money.
The first thing you need to do is remove the stator from your motorcycle, this is usually located under the left engine cover. After removing the stator you can do a visual inspection which will usually show very quickly what the problem is. If you burn the stator you will generally short out your three separate phase windings.
Once you have the stator out you can start removing the epoxy from the windings. This allows you to actually get to the windings and remove them. This part can be very tricky as the epoxy is quite difficult to remove. Once you’ve removed the epoxy you can remove all of the windings from the stator.
Now you can prepare the stator for rewinding. You should file down any sharp edges on the stator. Now you can have the stator rewound. You need to buy a new AWG wire. Locate the appropriate size of enameled copper wire in your particular motorcycle. Winding can be very difficult as you have to wind three separate phases. You’ll probably want to consult a chart to make sure you’re wrapping everything correctly.
Once you have all three pins wired correctly you can cover the whole thing with insulating paint. As a result, the stator lasts longer. After you have coated the stator you should cure it in an oven at 300 degrees for about 30 minutes. Lastly, all you have to do is solder the connecting wires to the three phases and put them back on the bike. It should run like new again.
This is how you keep your stator as long as possible
Your stator will last you quite a long time if you take care of it properly. Many people have stators that last over 200,000 miles, your stator can last just as long. The main reason why stators get burned is because of the high amperage. If you need higher amps it will shorten the life of your stator.
There are certain functions on your motorcycle that your stator needs to perform such as: B. Your spark plugs. This current is absolute and cannot be reduced. Your accessories are the optional components that increase the amperage required. By running a lot of accessories you force the stator to work a lot harder to power everything. Keeping the amperage low is the best way to make a stator last as long as possible.
Vibrations also do a lot of damage to your stator. Vibrations can start to abrade the varnish that acts as an insulator on your stator windings. When this comes loose you can start shorting from the winding to the stator case.
Shorts also ruin your stator pretty quickly. However, this is much more difficult to prevent. You can do your best to avoid big bumps, but your engine will still experience vibration.
Why am I not getting any spark?
Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. This includes worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad plug wires or a cracked distributor cap.
Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
When idling, the engine can shake so severely that vibrations can be felt throughout the vehicle. The engine may run poorly and one or more cylinders may be misfiring. The check engine light may come on or keep flashing.
The most common cause of a misfire is a problem related to the ignition system. Misfires can be caused by loss of spark; unbalanced air/fuel mixture; or loss of compression.
This article focuses on finding the root cause of misfires caused by lost spark. Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents the coil voltage from jumping across the gap at the end of the spark plug. These include worn, fouled, or damaged spark plugs, bad spark plug wires, or a cracked distributor cap.
Sometimes misfires are not caused by a total loss of spark but by improper sparking or high voltage electrical leaks.
Part 1 of 4: Locate the misfiring cylinders
Materials needed
Step 1: Scan the car to find the misfiring cylinders. Use a scan tool to find the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) for the problem.
If you don’t have access to a scan tool, your local parts store can scan your car for free.
Step 2: Get a printout with all the code numbers. The DTC numbers indicate specific circumstances where the collected data reaches unacceptable levels.
Misfire codes are universal and range from P0300 to p03xx. “P” refers to the powertrain, while 030x refers to a detected misfire. “X” refers to the cylinder that misfired. Example: P0300 refers to a random misfire, P0304 refers to a misfire in cylinder 4, while P0301 refers to cylinder 1, and so on.
Look for all ignition coil primary circuit codes. There may be other DTCs such as coil codes or fuel pressure codes related to fuel, spark, or compression that can help you diagnose the problem.
Step 3: Identify your engine’s cylinders. Based on your vehicle’s engine type, you can identify the cylinder or cylinders that are not firing.
A cylinder is the central part of a reciprocating engine or piston pump and is the space in which a piston moves. A number of cylinders are usually arranged side by side in an engine block. In different types of engines, the cylinders are arranged in different positions.
If you have an in-line engine, cylinder number 1 would be closest to the belts. If you have a “V” engine, do some research to find a diagram of the engine cylinders. All manufacturers use their own method of numbering cylinders, so visit the manufacturer’s website for more information.
Part 2 of 4: Test the coil pack
The coil pack creates the high voltage that the spark plug needs to create a spark that starts the combustion process. Test the coil pack to see if it is causing the misfire problem.
Materials needed
dielectric fat
ohmmeter
key
Step 1: Locate the spark plugs. Access the coil pack to test it out. Turn off the car’s engine and open the hood.
Locate the spark plugs and follow the spark plug wires until you find the coil pack. Remove the spark plug leads and label them to aid in reinstallation.
Tip: Depending on your car make and model, the coil pack may be on the side or rear of the engine.
Warning: Always use caution when working with cables and spark plugs.
Loosen the coil packs and remove the connector. Visually inspect the coil pack and boot. If high voltage leakage occurs, it will burn the surrounding area. The usual indicator of this is discoloration.
Tip: The boot, if available, can be exchanged separately. To correctly remove the boot from the spark plug, grasp it, twist it and pull it off. If the boot is old, you may need to use some force to twist it off. Don’t try to pry it off with a screwdriver.
Step 2: Check your spark plugs. Look for carbon traces in the form of a black line running up and down the porcelain portion of the connector. This is evidence that the spark travels down the plug to earth and is the most common cause of an intermittent misfire.
Step 3: Replace the plug. If the spark plug is misfiring, you may want to replace it. Be sure to use dielectric grease when installing the new spark plug.
Dielectric grease or silicone grease is a waterproof, electrically insulating grease made by combining a silicone oil with a thickening agent. Dielectric grease is applied to electrical connectors to lubricate and seal rubber parts of the connector without arcing.
Step 4: Remove the coil pack. Remove the bumper fascias and crash bar for easier access. Remove the three Torx head screws from the coil pack you wish to remove. Unplug the bottom HT wire from the coil pack that you want to remove.
Disconnect the coil pack electrical connections and use a wrench to remove the coil pack from the motor.
Step 5: Test the coils. Leave the coils unscrewed and only just resting on the connector. Start the engine.
Warning: Make sure no part of your body touches the car.
Using an insulated tool, lift the coil up about ¼ inch. Look for arcing and a popping sound, which may indicate a high-voltage electrical leak. Adjust the amount you raise the coil to get the loudest sounding arc, but don’t raise it more than ½ inch.
If you see a good spark from the coil but not the spark plug, then the problem can be caused by either a bad distributor cap, bad rotor, or bad carbon tip and/or spring or plug wire.
Look into the spark plug tube. If you see the spark going to the pipe, the boot is bad. If the arc deceleration diminishes or disappears, the coil pack is defective.
Compare all the coils and determine which, if any, is defective.
Tip: If half your coils are under the intake manifold and that’s where the misfires are, remove the intake, replace the plugs, take the known-good coils from the accessible bank and place them under the intake. Now you can stress test the questionable coils.
Part 3 of 4: Test the spark plug leads
The spark plug leads can be tested in the same way as the coils.
Step 1: Remove the spark plug wire. First, remove the wires from the connectors and look for any obvious signs of a high voltage leak.
Look for cuts or burn marks on the wire or insulation. Check the connector for traces of carbon. Check the area for corrosion.
Tip: Use a flashlight to visually inspect the spark plug leads.
Step 2: Test the wire. Put the wire back on the connector to prepare for the stress test. Start the engine.
Use an insulated tool to pry the wires off the connector one at a time. Now all the wire and the coil that feeds it is loaded. Use a jumper wire to ground an insulated screwdriver. Gently pull the screwdriver along each spark plug wire, around the coil and boots.
Look for arcing and a popping sound, which may indicate a high-voltage electrical leak. If you see an arc from the cable to the screwdriver, the cable is defective.
Part 4 of 4: Distributors
The job of a distributor, as the name suggests, is to distribute electrical power to individual cylinders at a specified time. The distributor is internally connected to the camshaft, which causes the cylinder head valves to open and close. As the camshaft lobes rotate, the distributor is energized and spins a centralized rotor with a magnetic end that triggers individual electric cams as it rotates clockwise.
Each electrical lobe is attached to a corresponding spark plug wire that distributes electrical current to each spark plug. The placement of each spark plug wire on the distributor cap directly correlates to the engine’s firing order. For example; A standard General Motors V-8 engine has eight individual cylinders. However, for optimal engine efficiency, each cylinder will fire (or reach top dead center) at a specific time. The standard firing order of this type of engine is 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7 and 2.
Most of today’s modern cars have replaced the distributor and points system with an ECM, or Electronic Control Module, which performs a similar job of sending electrical currents to each spark plug.
What Causes Loss of Spark Problems in a Distributor?
There are three specific components inside the distributor that can cause a lack of spark at the end of the spark plug.
Cracked distributor cap Moisture or condensation in distributor cap Cracked distributor rotor
To diagnose the exact cause of the distributor failure, follow the steps outlined below.
Step 1: Locate your distributor cap. If you have a vehicle built before 2005, you likely have a distributor and therefore a distributor cap. Cars, trucks and SUVs built after 2006 are more likely to have an ECM system.
Step 2: Check the outside of the distributor cap: Once you’ve found your distributor cap, the first thing you should do is visually inspect it to look for a few specific warning signs, including:
Loose spark plug wires on top of distributor cap Broken spark plug wires on distributor cap Cracks on sides of distributor cap Verify distributor cap clips are secure to distributor cap Verify water surrounds distributor cap
Step 3: Mark the location of the distributor cap: After inspecting the outer portion of the distributor cap, the next step is to remove the distributor cap. However, this is where examination and diagnosis can become difficult and, if not handled properly, can cause further problems. Before you even think about removing the distributor cap, make a precise mark on the cap’s position. The best way to complete this step is to take a silver or red marker and draw a line right on the rim of the distributor cap and the distributor itself. This ensures that the cap is not put on upside down when you put it on.
Step 4: Remove the distributor cap: After marking the cap, you should remove it to inspect the inside of the distributor cap. To remove the cap, simply remove the clips or screws currently securing the cap to the manifold
Step 5: Check the Rotor: The rotor is the long piece in the middle of the manifold. Remove the rotor by simply sliding it off the contact post. If you notice black powder on the underside of the rotor, this is a good indicator that the electrode is burned and needs to be replaced. This could be the cause of the spark problem.
Step 6: Check the inside of the distributor cap for condensation: If you have checked the distributor rotor and found no problems with this part, it is possible that condensation or water in the distributor is causing the spark problem. If you notice condensation in the distributor cap, you will need to purchase a new cap and rotor.
Step 7: Check the Distributor for Proper Alignment: There are some instances where the distributor will work itself loose which will affect ignition timing. This does not affect the distributor’s ability to frequently produce a spark, but there are a few instances where it might.
An engine misfire is usually accompanied by a critical loss of performance that must be rectified promptly. It can be difficult to identify the cause of the misfire, especially if the misfire only occurs under certain conditions.
If you cannot perform this diagnostic yourself, have your engine checked by a Vermin-Club certified technician. Our mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the cause of the engine misfire and provide a detailed inspection report.
Why do I have power to my coil but no spark?
There are a few reasons for no spark, new coil pack could be defective, crank sensor, ignition module or bad wire in primary circuit, faulty ECM/PCM. You may have to have a good technician have a look, diagnose and estimate repair. Second link gives detailed instructions for testing and diagnosing coil pack.
Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
You may need to call in a good technician to diagnose and estimate the repair.
The second link has detailed instructions on testing and diagnosing coil packs.
I hope this was helpful to you, if so please let me know by clicking the ‘helpful’ button.
Check the attached links, instructions and guides. Much luck
http://www.aa1car.com/library/no_spark.h…
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler/…
How do you tell if a coil is bad on an outboard?
- Cracked Body. The coil on your outboard is a sealed unit. …
- Hard Starting. If the coil is weak or damaged it will produce less spark energy than it is designed to. …
- Engine Misfires. …
- No Spark at Spark Plug Gap.
Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
What causes outboard motor not to fire on all cylinders?
What To Do If Your Outboards Not Running On All Cylinders? This is commonly due to the lack of one of three things. Either the cylinder isn’t getting the proper amount of air, it’s not getting fuel, or the spark plug is not firing in that cylinder.
Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
What to do if your outboards are not running on all cylinders? This is often because one of three things is missing. Either the cylinder isn’t getting the right amount of air, it’s not getting fuel, or the spark plug isn’t firing in that cylinder.
If your engine isn’t working properly, here are the steps you need to take to diagnose the cylinders!
Symptoms of an outboard not running on all cylinders
Whenever your outboard is running on all cylinders, whether it is a 2, 3, 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. It will run smoothly.
No hiccups, misfires or problems. This is what you want to do with your engine.
But as with all things, for whatever reason, sometimes not. In this case, you need to find out what’s going on.
If the engine is not running on all cylinders, it will shake visually.
If the revs don’t progress as it should, it will be sluggish, sometimes backfire.
This is sometimes referred to as a misfire, and you may also notice that it’s rough at idle.
These are the main symptoms you will notice when the outboard has lost a cylinder or two.
What causes a cylinder not to fire?
There are three main causes that cause a cylinder to stop firing.
Understand that an engine needs air, fuel and spark to run. Whenever it doesn’t get all or some of one or more of them.
Then the engine no longer runs on all cylinders.
This means that if the cylinder does not get the right amount of air in, combustion cannot take place in the cylinder.
The same goes for the right amount of fuel with that air. Without fuel you don’t have an ignition cylinder.
Likewise if the spark plug or ignition coil is not sending the correct current to that plug to create a spark.
Which is also needed for combustion.
How to find out which cylinder is not firing
Now when it comes to finding out which cylinder is not firing, it can be easier than you might think.
Depends on what type of engine you’re working on, of course, but in general.
You can simply unplug one of the injectors or the ignition coils on each cylinder.
One after the other, with the engine running. Now you can hear and watch the engine.
If the engine is not running on all cylinders, it will shake and make a funny sound.
So if you pull off a cylinder it’s running on, the engine might shut down, but it usually starts shaking a lot more than it was.
And you will be able to see it visually. If the engine now cuts out, reconnect the injector or coil and restart the engine.
Now go to the next cylinder and unplug it, one at a time, until you’ve worked through all the cylinders.
Eventually you will pull off one of the cylinders. And the engine will not change either in sound or in operation.
This will tell you which cylinder is not firing!
Resolving your outboard cylinder misfire
Now that you’ve narrowed down which cylinder isn’t firing, we need to figure out which of the three elements we talked about earlier. Don’t come in this cylinder.
An easy way to diagnose ignition is to pull out the spark plug and swap it out with another plug depending on your appearance.
Then repeat your test to see if the problem followed the connector or not. Now you can also swap the ignition coil to test the coil.
But the easiest way is to use a spark board or use spark plug wire pliers and leave the connector on the spool and hold it against the engine block. And start the engine to see if the spark plug fires.
This is a dangerous test and we recommend using the spark tester but it is an unsafe option if you have no other options just know there is a risk of causing damage.
If you have spark now, you need to take care of the fuel issue.
You can do this by checking the fuel pressure.
If you have fuel pressure you should pull the injector to test it.
And when it lets fuel through, you’re left with the air side of things.
Now there may be more complicated things and tests that may need to be considered.
But this will guide and steer you in the direction of finding out!
If you’re interested in more in-depth troubleshooting techniques, you can join our Born Again Boating Academy, which will teach you all about the systems on your boat!
You can also visit our YouTube channel where we have tons more test videos to help you there as well as some of these other articles here that can help you get your boat running!
And if you’d like to help us keep bringing you great content, please click the link below to go to Amazon, where we’ll get a commission on everything you’ll already buy! Click here to Amazon!
What causes outboard motor not to fire on all cylinders?
What To Do If Your Outboards Not Running On All Cylinders? This is commonly due to the lack of one of three things. Either the cylinder isn’t getting the proper amount of air, it’s not getting fuel, or the spark plug is not firing in that cylinder.
Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
What to do if your outboards are not running on all cylinders? This is often because one of three things is missing. Either the cylinder isn’t getting the right amount of air, it’s not getting fuel, or the spark plug isn’t firing in that cylinder.
If your engine isn’t working properly, here are the steps you need to take to diagnose the cylinders!
Symptoms of an outboard not running on all cylinders
Whenever your outboard is running on all cylinders, whether it is a 2, 3, 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. It will run smoothly.
No hiccups, misfires or problems. This is what you want to do with your engine.
But as with all things, for whatever reason, sometimes not. In this case, you need to find out what’s going on.
If the engine is not running on all cylinders, it will shake visually.
If the revs don’t progress as it should, it will be sluggish, sometimes backfire.
This is sometimes referred to as a misfire, and you may also notice that it’s rough at idle.
These are the main symptoms you will notice when the outboard has lost a cylinder or two.
What causes a cylinder not to fire?
There are three main causes that cause a cylinder to stop firing.
Understand that an engine needs air, fuel and spark to run. Whenever it doesn’t get all or some of one or more of them.
Then the engine no longer runs on all cylinders.
This means that if the cylinder does not get the right amount of air in, combustion cannot take place in the cylinder.
The same goes for the right amount of fuel with that air. Without fuel you don’t have an ignition cylinder.
Likewise if the spark plug or ignition coil is not sending the correct current to that plug to create a spark.
Which is also needed for combustion.
How to find out which cylinder is not firing
Now when it comes to finding out which cylinder is not firing, it can be easier than you might think.
Depends on what type of engine you’re working on, of course, but in general.
You can simply unplug one of the injectors or the ignition coils on each cylinder.
One after the other, with the engine running. Now you can hear and watch the engine.
If the engine is not running on all cylinders, it will shake and make a funny sound.
So if you pull off a cylinder it’s running on, the engine might shut down, but it usually starts shaking a lot more than it was.
And you will be able to see it visually. If the engine now cuts out, reconnect the injector or coil and restart the engine.
Now go to the next cylinder and unplug it, one at a time, until you’ve worked through all the cylinders.
Eventually you will pull off one of the cylinders. And the engine will not change either in sound or in operation.
This will tell you which cylinder is not firing!
Resolving your outboard cylinder misfire
Now that you’ve narrowed down which cylinder isn’t firing, we need to figure out which of the three elements we talked about earlier. Don’t come in this cylinder.
An easy way to diagnose ignition is to pull out the spark plug and swap it out with another plug depending on your appearance.
Then repeat your test to see if the problem followed the connector or not. Now you can also swap the ignition coil to test the coil.
But the easiest way is to use a spark board or use spark plug wire pliers and leave the connector on the spool and hold it against the engine block. And start the engine to see if the spark plug fires.
This is a dangerous test and we recommend using the spark tester but it is an unsafe option if you have no other options just know there is a risk of causing damage.
If you have spark now, you need to take care of the fuel issue.
You can do this by checking the fuel pressure.
If you have fuel pressure you should pull the injector to test it.
And when it lets fuel through, you’re left with the air side of things.
Now there may be more complicated things and tests that may need to be considered.
But this will guide and steer you in the direction of finding out!
If you’re interested in more in-depth troubleshooting techniques, you can join our Born Again Boating Academy, which will teach you all about the systems on your boat!
You can also visit our YouTube channel where we have tons more test videos to help you there as well as some of these other articles here that can help you get your boat running!
And if you’d like to help us keep bringing you great content, please click the link below to go to Amazon, where we’ll get a commission on everything you’ll already buy! Click here to Amazon!
Help!!!! 1975 75hp chrysler outboard no spark???
See some more details on the topic chrysler outboard no spark here:
Chrysler outboard 100HP no spark – Boating Forum
I cleaned it out and put it back together and now it will not start, it has not spark and after investigating and researching every thing I came …
Source: forums.iboats.com
Date Published: 4/29/2021
View: 8766
1973 chrysler 85hp outboard no spark to any cylinder! [Archive]
NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER: Disconnect all kill wires AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. Measure DVA …
Source: www.marineengine.com
Date Published: 4/11/2022
View: 8725
No Spark | Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
It is a 1982 Chrysler 15 hp. This is a twin cylinder with magneto ignition. It has no spark. I cleaned and set the points.
Source: aomci.org
Date Published: 8/10/2022
View: 3184
Page 2 – Chrysler outboard ignition troubleshooter
If the coils will not fire with the spark plugs in, check compression with the spark plugs removed from all cylinders. A blown head gasket on these engines can …
Source: www.outboardignition.com
Date Published: 9/4/2021
View: 4476
Chrysler outboard 100HP no spark
Re: Chrysler outboard 100 hp no spark
Yes, Nordin, but the 79 was the last year Chrysler used the Motorola ignition. It’s almost certainly the electronic distributor. The good news is that Chrysler never changed the distributor housing. The electrical eyebolts on the exact same holes as points. SO: Points can be exchanged in the distributor. However, you will need a rotor with a four-lobe cam. Then simply remove the blue wire and leave the white wire connected from the CD unit. It will work normally.
NOW: If Fatty (sorry, couldn’t resist) wants to convert to an automotive coil/dot system, these simple steps are required:
1. Purchase a 12 volt automotive coil
2. Buy the correct points for the Chrysler engine and find a rotor / shaft with a four-lobe cam.
3 Remove the electronic CD box and the electric eye
4. Mount the coil where the CD box was mounted.
5 Install the points and rotor.
6. Make sure the ignition switch has the blue wire connected to the “I” terminal.
7. On the motor, route the blue wire from the terminal block to the POS coil connector.
8. Run a white wire from the NEG terminal on the coil to the binding post on the distributor.
That’s it! Retime and sync the motor.
The operation is as follows: the coil is constantly powered by the blue wire, but it cannot be used because there is no way. When the points close, current flows and builds a magnetic field in the primary windings of the coil. When the points open, current flow stops, the field collapses, a high voltage pulse is generated in the secondary windings and sent to the correct connector. The length of time the points are closed is called the “dwell time” and directly determines the strength of the magnetic field. The points should be set to 0.010 for correct dwell time.
Oh, I forgot: you also need a capacitor across the points to suppress arcing when closing or opening and to extend the life of the points. The condenser does not have to be inside the manifold.
I also forgot: this system doesn’t fire the surface gap plugs. Use the spark plugs listed for a 20-25 or 50-55 hp battery ignition or magneto engine. Can’t remember exactly – Champion L4J or J6J – something like that
Troubleshooting 2 Stroke Ignition Problems
Troubleshooting 2-stroke ignition problems
Author: Stuart Buckingham Date of publication: March 30, 2017
The most common thing I get asked for help on the phone with is diagnosing outboard ignition problems. While I’m always happy to try to help with a diagnosis, it can be very difficult to do so over the phone. Aside from having the right tools to aid in diagnosis, a basic understanding of how a two-stroke ignition system works is essential. The following is a list of what constitutes an ignition system from start to finish.
1. Battery
It all starts with your boat battery. Outboard engines require higher cold cranking amps than many other engines, so a dedicated boat battery with the correct cranking capacity for your outboard engine is a must. Without the correct voltage, your outboard motor’s starter motor may not be able to crank the flywheel fast enough to activate your ignition system.
2. Ignition switch
In order to activate and crank your engine, you need a switch. Every electric start outboard has an ignition switch that opens and closes the starter solenoid. It also shuts down the engine by shorting the CDI unit (power pack or switch box) to ground. A faulty ignition switch can cause all sorts of problems with your ignition system and is mostly overlooked.
3. Starter magnet
This is effectively a goal. The ignition switch sends a signal to the solenoid when you turn your key, allowing it to open. This allows voltage to be routed from your battery to the starter. If you turn your key and the starter doesn’t crank, you may have a faulty solenoid.
4. Flywheel
When your starter turns, it spins your flywheel to generate voltage for your ignition system and battery charging system. Inside the flywheel are magnets that spin around a stator at high speed to generate alternating current. The flywheel also spins around the trigger (or timer base) to determine the firing order or timing of your engine. Cracked or loose magnets on your flywheel will cause ignition problems, so they’re definitely worth checking.
5. stand
Your stator generates voltage for two reasons. To send voltage to your CDI unit (power pack or control box) to run your motor, and to send voltage to your rectifier/regulator which charges your battery. Engines with no spark or intermittent sparking on a bank can be caused by a faulty stator.
6. Trigger
Embedded in the stator under the flywheel is the trigger (or timer base). Probably the most overlooked part of the ignition system, the trigger sends a signal to the CDI unit (power pack or control box) telling it when to deliver voltage to the coil. A faulty trigger results in no or intermittent spark and is often misdiagnosed as a power supply fault. Also, a faulty trigger short to ground will damage a power supply. So be careful when you put in a new power supply.
7. CDI unit
Depending on your outboard brand, these units have different names, but they all perform the same function of storing voltage from the stator and delivering it to your ignition coil when the trigger commands it to. Often a faulty CDI unit will see intermittent or no spark on the cylinders and may only fail when your engine is warming up.
8. Ignition coil
When the coil receives voltage from the CDI unit, it amplifies the voltage and shoots it through to the spark plug. Faulty or damaged coils have poor or no performance. We see many coil failures where customers use a spark plug that is not recommended by the manufacturer.
9. Spark plug
This is the final component in your ignition system. The spark plug receives voltage from your ignition coil and creates a small electrical spark in your engine’s combustion chamber, which ignites your engine’s fuel and creates the explosion that drives the piston to rotate the crankshaft and flywheel, where the ignition process begins over and over again . Spark plugs can become fouled with oil and carbon on two-stroke engines, resulting in poor spark. They are by far the easiest to check first.
10. Rectifier/Regulator
Somewhere in between will fit your motor’s rectifier/regulator. It always works and its job is to replace the voltage in your battery that you have lost due to starting the engine, using electric tilt and trim, operating fish finders, lights or any other accessory on your boat. It converts the AC voltage to DC voltage and regulates how much voltage it puts into your battery. In many cases, a rectifier/regulator will also send the signal to your tachometer (tachometer) which will tell you what RPM your engine is making. Sometimes the first sign of a bad rectifier/regulator is when your tachometer stops working and this is very common on older Evinrude/Johnson outboards.
There are variances here and there, but I’ve taken this opportunity to go with the most common and basic approach. I hope the above has given you some insight into how your outboard ignition system works. Keep these points in mind if you ever have a potential ignition problem and hopefully this will make the diagnosis a little easier. However, remember that to properly diagnose ignition problems, a digital multimeter with a DC Voltage Adapter (DVA) is an essential tool for accurate diagnostics. Another very helpful material is the CDI Electronics Troubleshooting Guide. Click here for pages of helpful information on almost every two-stroke engine.
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Comments (143)
1989 Force 50hp By: Adam on July 25, 2022 Just picked up a 1989 Force 50hp. Starts when the engine choke is on. The engine stops when the choke is pulled. Checked for spark and only sparks when plugged. When I turn the key without the choke there is no spark. Any thoughts?
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, thanks for the question. I’m not sure how you check the spark, but it sounds to me like you may have a fuel problem, not a spark. The choke has nothing to do with spark (and I’m not sure how you can wire an outboard to only have spark when the choke is on). If it were me, I would clean the carburetor and make sure there’s no dirt in there. Also check your engine control settings to ensure your idle speed is set correctly and not too low. This is a simple 2 cylinder engine with a carburetor and I would look at the basics first for example: spark (with spark tester, fuel (carburetor and fuel pump), engine compression. Cheers
No Spark By: Tony E on July 17, 2022 I have a 1981 Evinrude 90hp. I can’t get any spark on any cylinder. I changed the stator and still nothing. ..,,Help
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, Disconnect the black wire with the yellow trace from the powerpacks and do a spark test. If you have a spark now, then you have a short to ground somewhere in the stop circuit. This can be in the wire harness, wiring harness, or ignition switch. If there is still no spark I would say you have a timer base problem OR two faulty power packs which would be weird to be honest. There’s also a chance that the stator you bought is faulty… but I would check the other possibilities first. cheers
1984 Johnson VRO 140 By: Andrew Dyer on 6 Jul 2022 Runs great out of the water on muffs but put it in the lake and get out of the trailer almost to the end of the no wake zone and then starts dying and sounds like JTS keep running 2 of 4 cylinders came home hooked it back up to sleeves and sounded fine ran fine but the next day they stalled and wouldn’t start so I did a spark test, to find out that 3 and 4 have sparks but not 1 and 2 then like 30 minutes later when i tried again 1 and 2 sparked again so i think its the power supplies thanks!!!!!!
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, I would think of Timerbase and/or Powerpack. You must be careful when replacing just the power pack as a faulty timer base will destroy a new power pack and vice versa. cheers
No Spark From: Richard Le on Jul 4, 2022 I have no spark on cylinders 2 and 5, swap coil from other cylinders and have spark. Wire harness that plugs into the coil, both sides of the wires on the harness are grounded. How do I check the power supply for the middle wire? Can it also be the trigger or stator?
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, if you swapped the coils that fired on another cylinder for the ones that don’t fire and you now have spark, then the coils are bad. Replace them and you should be right. cheers
2016 Mercury 3.3hp 2-stroke. By: Lewis Vella on Jul 2, 2022 It takes a lot of effort to start many pulls on the cable and once turned off the same won’t start again. Carburetor cleaned, spark plug checked, seems good with strong sparks, however new still replaces the same. Combustion is good and sometimes tries to start and fails. Can it be due to a defective charge excitation coil or the CDI. Thanks in advance.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, this is just a single cylinder engine and pretty simple. If you have good spark I would check the compression. I’ve had these little engines do the same thing over the years to find the cylinder wall becoming worn or damaged, making it difficult to start and pushing the exhaust back where it shouldn’t. Much luck,
94 power 40 hp From: Joe on July 2, 2022 Was out fishing and it was going well then we stopped for about 30 minutes and it wouldn’t start. Check it and no spark what could it be? I just replaced the switch and stator and voltage regulator rectifier and still no spark any suggestions
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, CDI (switch box) unit could be defective or the timer base. I’m not sure if you changed the ignition switch or the switch box, but either could certainly be the problem. I would disconnect the black wire with the yellow trace from the switch box and test again. If the engine has sparks, then the stop circuit is defective. This can be an ignition switch, wire harness or wiring harness. cheers
1989 Evinrude 90hp V4 will not start after warming up. By: Clint C on June 18, 2022 Always starts perfectly in the cold. Runs great throughout the rev range, never stalls. Turn it off and fish for 30-60 minutes and it won’t start, when it does it just seems to be firing on 2 or 3 cylinders. Seems to be a spark issue but I didn’t have my tools on the water when this happens. Cannot replicate the problem in the driveway. Could a bad controller be causing this problem. How can I fix the regulator in this case? I think the regulator is bad because my tachometer started jumping around before it just decided to do nothing and my voltage gauge is showing less than 12 volts when running but has also gone up to 14-16 volts. Any other suggestions if a regulator fails to cause or fix this issue. Coils, plugs, and cords were replaced after this issue started occurring.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, I would disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the ESC and retest the motor on the water to see if the problem goes away. If the problem goes away, the controller is defective and needs to be replaced. Otherwise I would test the stator. There should be a resistance of 450-550 between the brown and brown/yellow wires. If out of specification, replace the stator. cheers
2005 Mercury 115 hp 2nd, 3 cyl. EFI, oil injection. By: Vincent on 16 Jun 2022 Runs great in the cold but after warming up (30 – 40 mins run) runs rough at times with variable rpm below 1500 and tends to stall. When I get it over 2000rpm it runs ok but can’t get it to max RPM. The situation corrects itself when allowed to cool. Changed the plugs, which seemed to help for a while, but the problem reappeared (the bottom plug seemed dirty). Think about the coils/power supply. Described to 2 ship mechanics who said it would be difficult to diagnose the problem when it occurs intermittently.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, I would bet on the CDM coils. These are common to cause problems. cheers
1996 Johnson Ocean Runner. No VRO, Pre-Mixed Fuel By: Colt Woolwine on June 14, 2022 Runs at 3/4 throttle and hears a low, rapid ‘clap’ under the hood. As I slowed down to listen, the noise grew louder until the engine cut out. I waited a second and then tried to restart the engine but it sounded terrible and died. I was towed back to the ramp and once back on the trailer I popped the hood and found a loose spark plug. The engine turns but does not fire at all.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, I would suggest doing a compression check on all 4 cylinders on your engine OR pulling the cylinder head off and inspecting the bore/piston where the spark plug was loose. It could be that you did some internal damage and the sound was the piston slapping. This is just based on what you said. Hopefully that’s not the problem and there’s something much easier to fix. cheers
Too much water is leaking from the water outlet By: Craig Eiland on March 7, 2022 I have a 1990 Evinrude 60hp outboard that is draining a lot of water from the above water outlet. Is that normal? And when I say plenty of water, I mean both ports full.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, if this occurs at idle with a cold engine it probably means that the thermostat assembly is stuck open or missing altogether. These are known as exhaust relief holes/ports and allow hot water to escape once the engine has reached temperature. If it happens after the outboard has warmed up, don’t worry. cheers
Tohatsu 50 hp 2 stroke February 7, 2021 Hi everyone. I have a 2-stroke Tohatsu that ran fine on 98 high octane, then I made the mistake of using 91. It idles well and reverses well, but forwards and under load it only runs at a quarter rev and slow at full throttle. I only ran it on 91 for about 20 minutes and then dumped it on clean 98 etc. Any ideas? thanks in advance
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, it may be purely coincidental with the running problem and the change in petrol octane. I would check the carburetors for contamination. It may be that the fuel you ingested was contaminated and the carburetors may now need cleaning. I would look at that. cheers
1988 30hp Johnson From: John Woodward on January 27, 2021 Hello Outboard Spares Team, I am having the problem that the engine only stops and starts for a second when driving at low rpm. It will do this a few times in one session and has done so since owning it for the last few years. Otherwise it’s going well. Greetings John
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hi John, it could be the spark plugs that are fouled as the 50:1 fuel/oil mixture doesn’t really like it at those bunch of low idles. Otherwise the carburetor might need to be cleaned. cheers
1990 Mariner 75hp 3 Cylinder 2 Stroke By: Matt on 26th January 2021 Hello, I recently bought my first Tinny and it has a 1990 Mariner 75hp 2 stroke engine. The motor runs perfectly with the muffs and water at home but put it in the water and it’s a different story, it idles but goes on the gas and only shuts off forward and reverse. I recently changed all the fuel lines, hoses etc, rebuilt a new fuel filter, the fuel pump was leaking. I was told it might be stator? Would love to hear your opinion and thanks in advance.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, most outboard motors need to be tuned with the exhaust (gear) submerged to compensate for the RPM loss you get when there is back pressure at the exhaust. It could be that your engine is idling too low and the idle simply needs to be adjusted to raise the RPM by just a few hundred. Otherwise I would do a spark test to see if any of the cylinders have no or intermittent spark. It could be the stator, but it could also be the switch box or CDM coils or triggers. Very difficult to say. Check the idle speed and then the spark and see how you ride. cheers
1984 Johnson 50hp By: Ted Humphrey on January 22, 2021 When I am on the water and open the throttle to a speed of 10 knots it suddenly spins up and takes off without moving the throttle what could cause this, can you help please
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, it sounds like an ignition problem to me, although I’m not sure which component would be causing it. If I had to guess, I would say: control cabinet. but it would only be a guess. Also check all connections from the throttle lever (carburetor side) to the timer base under the flywheel. Ensure all linkages are connected and there are no cracked fittings/connections. Much luck.
25 mercenaries outbd ’99’ help please! By: Gary Boone on October 29, 2020 One coil is energized and the second is de-energized. Read if I have power to either coil, my stator is good. Do you think so? If so, could the symptom I’m experiencing be caused by a faulty trigger or CDI? I cleaned a contacts including a ground.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, defective power supply units are very common on these models. However, it could still be a defective trigger. I would check the DVA on the green wires on the power supply AND on the coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V on both ends. If not, then the coil or power supply is defective. Hope that helps. cheers
1998 115 Johnson Smoking By: John Duckworth “Duck” on September 3, 2020 My 115 Johnson seems to be using about twice the oil it should. It smokes excessively on startup but runs great at most speeds. I sometimes color at no-wake speed for long periods of time.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, my thoughts are that you have a problem with the VRO oil injection unit. Maybe a split diaphragm that lets excess oil through. This could be why it sometimes dies at idle because it fouls the plugs. Much luck.
1988 Evinrude 120 starts but dies. By: James Frazier on September 2, 2020 The incident… Engine runs great. Got back in the water on Saturday and it started but ran poorly…Started 20 times but failed. Came home…the carburetor hood was FULL of fuel…The float was stuck in the top left of the carburetor and was leaking fuel. Carburettor disassembled and cleaned. The engine now starts but runs for about 2s to 5s and then stalls. Spark plugs were covered with fuel. Went back and disassembled and cleaned all the carbs…new plugs. Same… Engine starts and runs 2 seconds to 5 seconds and stalls. I use timing light… No fire on flip… but randomly it would ignite… Start… and shut off again via timing light with no fire. If I flicked the kill switch just right it would start and run for almost a minute…then died…no spark across the timing light. Did this 20 times. Switch to a new battery since I shut it down. Open the switch box…cut the wire to the emergency stop button…(btw I’m not a ship mechanic and I got lost)…Still no start. I think I did something wrong and used an alligator jumper and reconnected the wires…still no start/spark. I disconnect the jumper cable. The kill switch may be an open circuit…still no start/spark. I wiggle all the wires to the ignition switch, every wire on the engine…Engine starts/stalls but runs for 20 seconds…no fire…wiggling the wires to the ignition switch and banging on the control box…boat spins high and runs for 2 minutes this time…then dies…no spark. Ok…I’m thinking about the ignition switch…the kill switch…I’m going to my parts pile…grab a shifter for a ’74 Johnson 115 that I had. OMC so I think it should work. I pull the shifter and wires to the motor…disconnect the red connector…plug in the “other” switch box. Key in…I click from the choke here…(guess that’s choke)…so I go ahead and crank the engine with “other shifter”. Spins over…no start…no spark. Now the original shifter has two plugs that go into the motor…the big red one…and a smaller one…which I thought might be pitch and trim? My “other older shifter” has no trim…so just a wire and big red connector. anyone…try again…no start/no spark. It’s midnight, so it’s done. I think faulty ignition switch…and I want to replace the kil/lanyard switch…But I’m confused Plug in older switch box and it won’t start…since I just knew it would start…I did I was wrong. I’m planning to buy an ignition switch and a kill switch tomorrow…but I don’t expect it to start since not with the old shifter…advice please
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hi, wow, that’s a long evening! Ok so make sure everything is connected the way it was before you had the problem. Now disconnect the kill wire (black with yellow trace) from the power supply. This means you will be removing the shutdown wire from the harness connector that connects to the power supply connector. If the engine runs fine now, you either have a problem with the ignition switch, EMO switch OR the engine wiring harness. If there is still a problem I would check the ignition again. If you could get your hands on a spark tester that would allow you to connect all 4 spark plug leads at once it would be beneficial. You can then determine which cylinder or cylinders are not sparking. Then all you have to do is find out if you have a problem with a specific ignition component. Let us know how you are doing. cheers
1972 Evinrude Lark 50 2-Stroke By: Neil Cote on Aug 27, 2020 The post about “running out of the water like a champ and in the water half throttled” is exactly the problem I was having. Also, it got stuck with the cover on, but when I took it off, it revved up and ran mint until I turned it off. After cleaning my carburetors there was no spark and I noticed that most of the gaskets in that area were bad so I ordered new carburetor repair kits, magneto/coils and plugs. When it ran with the muffs mint the only problem was that it wore off and I had to squeeze the primer bulb to keep it going. But she ran mint. Now I get a small spark TO the plug but almost nothing THROUGH the plug. What do you think about it ? Also, is there a way to test my parts before ordering new ones?
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, it sounds like an exhaust problem to me. You may have a leaking base gasket and that is why the engine will not run when standing in water and the transmission/exhaust has back pressure. It also explains why it runs better without a cover as the engine cover fills with exhaust. When the covers are removed, it gets fresh, clean air. Much luck
1984 evinrude V-6 150 35 amp ignition problems May 21, 2020 So I just got this boat about a month ago and honestly it’s the first outboard I’ve ever owned (always inboard). Runs well on muffs in the driveway and even in the water while neutral I can rev it up as high as I want. I put it in gear and can idle around all day. The moment I step on the gas it goes out and dies. He took it to a certified mechanic and he ran through the ignition system, swapped out the power supplies and checked it with a DVA. His diagnosis only fires in cylinders 1,3 and 5 of a bank, not on 2,4 and 6, caused by a defective stator. So I got it home, ordered a new 35A OEM stator, installed it and went back to the lake and no change. So I replaced the $350 stator and still no solution. What are the possible options here and how do I fix it? 2 little boys are dying to fish from the boat so I’m willing to pay for someone’s time if needed. I just want it fixed.
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, It’s frustrating when replacing something doesn’t fix the problem, especially when you now have $350 out of pocket. There are a few other things it could be. I would say it’s most likely a problem with the power supply or the timer base. Swap packs from one bank to another. If the spark jumps to the other bank, one of the power supplies is bad. If the problem persists, disconnect the stop wire from each of the power supplies (black with yellow trace) and retest. If the problem persists then I would lean towards a faulty timer basis. If the problem is resolved (after disconnecting the black/yellow wires), there may be a problem with the stop circuit/harness. Watch as you go. Much luck.
no power to starter motor By: Steve Brown on April 19, 2020 I have an old V6, 2-stroke Mercury which I believe has 200hp which I believe is 1979 Black max. Recently the ignition key broke off and I replaced it with a new key and the ignition switch turns fine but now I get no response from the starter. The yellow and red wires to the solenoid have no voltage when I turn the key, but the carbi-choke solenoid still activates. I took the boat to my Mercury Service Expert to have it checked out and he told me to get a new starter motor. I got a new one and installed it myself. There was nothing wrong with the old starter. Can you guys give me some pointers on what to check? I do not want to return to the Mercury Service Center if I can diagnose myself first. The engine usually runs very well and I regularly service it myself as it is a very old engine. The serial number is A8061737
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hello, I would check if you connected the ignition wire correctly when installing the new switch. Also check that the throttle arm is in neutral as it could be “in gear” and removing any voltage to the solenoid. There is a neutral switch in the control box or on the engine, I can’t remember exactly but it will be where the control cables slide on the engine if it is there. I’m pretty confident that this will be the problem. cheers
Runs fine out of water but poor in water By: Steven Elliott on April 6, 2020 I have a 1993 Mercury 25hp that I am having a problem with. On muffs and water hoses it runs like a champ, but when stressed on the river it runs rough at idle, is slow to respond on the throttle, and when the throttle is fully open I’m only cruising at half speed. I’ve cleaned and overhauled the carburetor, checked for clogs in the exhaust, checked the plugs and performed a successful compression test but still no results. any help??
Outboard Spare Parts Response
Hi Steve, it could be a few things but I would look for the simplest solution first. I would check the engine height first. Do you have a 20″ leg mounted on a short manhole transom? The cavitation plate above the propeller should be level (or within about 20mm) with the bottom of the boat. Ich denke, wenn Ihr Motorbein wirklich tief im Wasser ist, haben Sie zu viel Abgasdruck auf dem Motor, was zu einem rauen Leerlauf führt, und Sie können Ihren Motor nicht so laufen lassen, wie er sollte. Wenn das alles in Ordnung ist, könnte es auch eine defekte Zündspule sein, die unter Last kaputt geht, oder auch ein Statorproblem. Es ist ein bisschen schwer, das genau zu sagen. Überprüfen Sie zuerst die Motorhöhe und überprüfen Sie dann möglicherweise Ihre Spulen auf schlechte Masse oder Risse in ihnen, die zu Erdschluss führen können. Much luck.
1982 35 PS Johnson Außenborder Modell J35ELCND Von: Jim Tott am 5. April 2020 Ich habe einen 1982 35 PS Johnson Außenborder (Modell J35ELCND). Kurbelt nur an (kurbelt schnell neue Batterie und Anlasser an) und versucht nicht einmal zu starten. Ausgebauter Vergaser sah sowieso gut gereinigt aus wieder zusammengebaut….nix. Auf Zündfunken geprüft, indem die Zündkerzen entfernt und überwacht wurden, während der Motor angelassen wurde … null Zündfunke. Einen Spritzer von beiden in den Vergaser geschossen, um zu bestätigen, und nichts, so dass es so aussieht, als ob an beiden Zylindern absolut kein Funke vorhanden ist. Ging durch den Kabelbaum, um zu sehen, ob offensichtliche Unterbrechungen oder ähnliches vorhanden sind … nur eine fehlende Isolierung an einigen der Drähte …. klebte sie an den Stellen fest, an denen sich die Isolierung von den Drähten löste. Ich stellte sicher, dass die Zündspulen gut zum Motor geerdet waren … immer noch nichts. Ich bin mir nicht sicher, wohin ich als nächstes gehen soll, und wäre für Ratschläge sehr dankbar. Danke Jim
Reaktion der Außenborder-Ersatzteile
Hallo Jim, ich würde damit beginnen, das Stoppkabel, das in das Powerpack geht, vom Stoppknopf zu trennen. Es könnte sein, dass Sie zwischen dem Stoppknopf / -schalter und dem Netzteil einen Kurzschluss an Masse haben. cheers
85 Force Von: Garvie am 2. April 2020 Hallo … ich habe einen 86 Bayliner Capri, mein erstes Boot 17 Fuß 2-Takt-Außenbordmotor, es ist ein 85 Force … jetzt schalte ich den großen roten Schalter meiner Batterie auf 1 ..2 … und alles … und mein Anlasser springt einfach so an, ohne dass ich den Zündschalter betätige … was kann dazu führen, dass das passiert?
Reaktion der Außenborder-Ersatzteile
Hallo, ich würde denken, dass es meiner Meinung nach eines von 3 Dingen sein könnte. 1) Die Verkabelung zum Anlassermagneten ist falsch (möglicherweise direkt mit dem Anlasser verdrahtet? oder ein Überbrückungskabel, das die Magnetpole überbrückt) 2) Ihr Anlassermagnet ist defekt 3) Ihr Zündschalter ist defekt. Gehen Sie diese Dinge einzeln durch, und ich bin sicher, Sie werden das Problem finden.
Mercury 2015 60 PS Von: Rodney Jackson am 1. April 2020 Ich habe den Kraftstofffilter ausgetauscht, die Zündkerzen gereinigt und die Batterie hat etwa 12,90 Volt. Es kurbelt aber dreht nicht. Alles im Motor tut was es soll.
Reaktion der Außenborder-Ersatzteile
Hallo, überprüfen Sie Ihren “Kill” -Schalter am Steuerkasten oder am Motor (wenn es sich um eine Pinnensteuerung handelt). Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Reißleine befestigt ist und sich der Schalter in der Position RUN befindet. Aufgrund des Baujahres gehe ich davon aus, dass es sich bei diesem Motor um einen 4-Takter handelt. Normalerweise sind das tolle Motoren. Wenn es nicht so einfach ist wie der “Kill” -Schalter, müssen Sie ihn möglicherweise zu einem Händler bringen und ihn das Diagnosewerkzeug anschließen lassen. cheers
Startprobleme 1999 35 PS Johnston Von: Clive Blakely am 29. März 2020 Ich habe diesen Motor kürzlich gekauft und er springt einfach nicht an. Ich habe die Kompression überprüft, die 150 psi pro Zylinder beträgt, und der Funkentest zeigt Funken für jeden Zylinder. Ich habe jetzt das Choke-Ventil getestet und festgestellt, dass es nicht aktiviert wird (überprüfte Solenoid als OK). Ich habe den Kraftstofffilter und die Vergaser überprüft, die Kraftstoff enthalten. Ich vermute einen Controller-Fehler, können Sie mir bitte einen Rat geben (Motor dreht gut mit guter Batterie)
Reaktion der Außenborder-Ersatzteile
Hallo, es kann Funken haben, aber wenn das Timing “out” ist, könnte dies das Problem verursachen, das Sie haben. Diese Motoren hatten zahlreiche Probleme mit den Power-Packs, daher würde ich ein Zündproblem nicht ausschließen. Ansonsten ist es schwer zu sagen. Wenn Sie Funken, Kompression und Kraftstoff haben, bleibt meiner Meinung nach wirklich das Timing übrig. Das könnte ein Packungsproblem oder ein Schwungrad sein, das sich auf dem Schlüssel gedreht hat. Es ist immer schwierig, über das Telefon oder das Internet eine “begründete Vermutung” anzustellen. Überprüfen Sie einfach alles, was Sie bereits getan haben, falls Sie auch etwas übersehen haben. Much luck.
1999 Mariner 9,9 PS 2-Takt Von: Bruce Taft am 26. März 2020 Ich hatte an keinem der Zylinder einen Funken. Der Stator hatte keinen Widerstand. Ersetzte den Stator und stellte fest, dass die Plastikbirne am Abzug abgebrochen war. Es ist für das Stück, das mit dem Schaltgestänge verbunden ist. Diese und den Schaltkasten getauscht. Jetzt bekomme ich einen Funken, aber der Motor springt nicht an. Es gab auch einen etwas mäßigen Lautstärkeknall, aber der Motor würde nicht fangen. Irgendwelche Ideen?
Reaktion der Außenborder-Ersatzteile
Hallo, klingt wie es möglicherweise ein Timing-Problem ist. Ich würde prüfen, ob sich das Schwungrad nicht von der Passfeder auf der Kurbelwelle gedreht hat. Überprüfen Sie einfach, ob die Teile, die Sie für die Zündung erhalten haben (Stator, Paket, Timer-Basis), alle zu 100 % für Ihr Motormodell geeignet sind. Stellen Sie außerdem sicher, dass die Primärkabel Ihrer Spule aus der Packung mit den richtigen Spulen verbunden sind. Senden Sie uns eine E-Mail, wenn Sie immer noch nicht weiterkommen. cheers
Bootsleistung im Wasser Von: Rae Dsylva am 25. März 2020 Hallo. Ich habe einen Evinrude-Außenborder von 1985 mit 90 PS, der einige Jahre herumstand, bevor er installiert wurde. Es startet jedes Mal beim ersten Mal. Außerhalb des Wassers dreht und beschleunigt der Motor gut, aber im Wasser ist es ein Viertel der Geschwindigkeit, wenn der Gashebel ganz unten ist. Äußerlich könnte das Problem sein. Many Thanks.
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HI, If the engine has been sitting around for a couple of years then I would be looking at pulling the carburetors off, disassembling them and giving them a good clean. As the engine is under load trying to push the boat through the water it requires more fuel than it would revving up out of the water. If there is gunk in the carburetors then it won’t be getting sufficient fuel. Give them a clean and then see how you go. cheers
1995 mercury Force 40hp By: Ron Shelton on 24 March 2020 My boat wont go over 10mph. Motor runs fine at idle. When I try to throttle up all the way it acts like it’s not supplying enough fuel to go fast. Replaced plugs,new carb,and fuel filter. Both cylinders are firing. Compression test 120 both cylinders. My rpm gauge has not been working. And noticed my amp gauge at idle is 13 but when I’m going my top speed it goes down to 11. Thanku for any info.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, If your engine is a 1995 model then it will be running CDM type coils. These are prone to breaking down under-load when they are faulty or due to be replaced. It could also be a rectifier/regulator issue. Try disconnecting the yellow wires from the stator that go to the rectifier and re-test. If the engine now improves then the rectifier/regulator has an issue. This is where I would start. First test the rectifier/regulator, second look at the CDM’s. I hope it helps. cheers
1992 mercury 40 4 cylinder By: Chris on 20 March 2020 Hey I have a 40 4 cylinder that I have replaced the stator and trigger on twice. About to be the third. What would make it keep doing this? Thanks chris
Outboard Spares Response
HI, A switch-box with a shorted SCR can ruin a perfectly good trigger and vice-versa. I would replace the trigger and switchbox together. I can’t think of why the stator would be compromised in all of this. Are you sure the stator is faulty?? If not, replace the trigger and switch-box together. NOT one at a time, TOGETHER. Then run the engine. Hopefully a faulty switch-box and trigger have been the cause of your issues all along and this should sort you out. cheers
1992 Mercury 135 v6 By: Perry murphy on 15 March 2020 Mercury 135hp v6 will not rev past 5000rpm. I have checked all spark plugs and number 5 was black with carbon/oil I then changed the coil, HT lead and spark plug and the same thing happened. I thought an ignition pack would cause 1,3 and 5 to go bad I am lost. Many Thanks.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Your problem could be a faulty ignition pack (switch box) but if this has not resolved the issue and either has changing over the coil, then I’d look at the timer base (trigger). A faulty trigger shorting to ground can cause the switch box to fail so hopefully this is not the case and you won’t have to replace another switch box. Test the trigger. Between the following wires you should have 800-1400 resistance. Brown (black sleeve) to White (yellow sleeve), White (black sleeve) to Purple (yellow sleeve), Purple (black sleeve) to Brown (yellow sleeve). Check these 3 different readings of the trigger wires with a digital multimeter and see how you go. cheers
How to diagnose stator,timer,pwr pak fault no spar By: .paul Miharout on 4 March 2020 always the way. You never have an issue with the thing until you go to sell it. yes thats wright its the dreaded no spark on my 1977 85 hp v4 Johno.The question i have is can you fault find whether its a pwr pak/ timer/stator issue [no spark on all 4 cyl or at 1,2,3,4 on pk] while timer, stator still on motor or will these parts need to be removed?i had another pak and changed it [no telling if it was good] but still no joy surley theres a test for a pwr pak b4 its fitted?.Cleaned every elect connection on motor like new and tested coils [ok].Cannot get in to see anyone until late march and i have a buyer waiting now.Any assistance would be appreciated.Cheers. Oh and can you please explain what a DVA adaptor is ?
Outboard Spares Response
Hi Paul, Thank-you for your patience on this one. No Spark would most likely be stator, ignition switch or pack. Start by disconnecting the stop wire ( Black/Yellow wire) on the powerpack and re-test. If ok, the ignition switch, shift switch or harness has a problem. If this does not fix your issue then I’d suggest disconnecting the yellow wires to the rectifier from the stator. If this resolves your issue then replace the rectifier. 3rd, if you still have a problem check your battery leads and battery voltage as poor voltage to the starter motor may not be allowing the engine to crank over fast enough to generate the desired voltage for the ignition system to function. Last, check your stator output. (brown wire to the brown/yellow wire) you should be getting around 150 to 400V with the DVA meter connected. If you are still having issues, give me a call and I’ll help if I can. cheers
yahama 1992 misfiring and shaking wount go over 18 By: pravin on 3 March 2020 hii have 1992 yahama v4 fouling plugs 2and 4 change fuel pump rebuild carbs need help
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, sounds like either a oil sensor or over heat sensor issue. Do you have any alarms sounding? Pretty sure these models restrict RPM if the oil level is low and also if the engine is over-heating. I’d be checking to ensure that you don’t have an overheating issue (check thermostat assembly, relief valve (poppet valve) assembly and possibly your water-pump. If the engine has good water pressure from the tell tail then I’d suggest your problem is (if overheating) thermostat or poppet valve related. If all these check out ok, then you could have a faulty temp sender. It’s found on the cylinder head and connects to the CDI Unit. Disconnect it from the CDI unit and see if this fixes the issue. NOTE: This will tell you if you have a faulty sensor OR an overheating issue. You may still have an overheating issue, even if the thermostat assembly and poppet valve seem ok. A build up of salt in the Cylinder head and water jacket cover plate will cause overheating issues too. These would be worth inspecting, even just for preventative maintenance. If none of the above resolves your issue then it could likely be a faulty oil sender in the oil reservoir. See how you go with the above and get back to us if you’re still stuck. cheers
04 mercury 125hp rpm speed issue By: JUSTIN TANK on 4 February 2020 I have 2004 mercury 125 hp outboard 2+2 motor I’ve replaced the accelerator pump,check values rebuilt the fuel pump,all new fuel filters,fuel bulb and line,new plugs,rebuilt the carbs did a compression test,marked the prop to see for a spun prop,no clogged exhaust ports still having issues trying to get up to speed at 1800 rpms you can feel the motor shake and run rough but only at 1800 rpms wont get up to speed and plane out max rpms I get out of it is 3800 rpms she fires up right away and idles like a dream the power pack wires were fried i replaced that and still have issues now the rpm gauge has been hit and miss sticking and jumping any ideas thank you for your time!!!
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Try disconnecting the voltage regulator from the system and re-test. If the problem goes away, replace the voltage regulator. These engines also have a rev limiter (small black or small blue box with about 4 or 5 wires coming out of it) This could also be the issue. I can’t recall if there is a test for this part, but if your voltage regulator isn’t faulty then the rev limiter would be my next guess. Much luck
2 stroke 55hp yamaha 2012 /2cyl By: Donald on 19 January 2020 Started engine up went to my fishing spot switched engine off at the key, when it was time to move on I turned the key at ignition and absolutely nothing starter motor not turning over or nothing, nothing happening completely dead I checked power to alternator checked fuses broken wires found OK, tried to buy pass the ignition and try to start from the starter motor starter motor turns engine over OK but won’t crank, there’s spark but it won’t start,checked neutral switch and cut out switch battery and ignition found OK. Any ideas
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Sounds to me like the starter relay/solenoid has failed. I would look at testing this and/or replacing it. cheers
Mercury 2002 40hp 2st 2cyl By: Manus on 29 October 2019 Only firing on one cylinder. New plugs new coil( not genuine. After market) with 4 pin plug. If I switch coils the other cylinder starts running and the one with new coil stops firing. Could it be faulty new coil, or something else? Many Thanks
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, If the problem is following the new coil, then I’d guess the new coil is faulty. cheers
1994 Mercury Tracker 90HP 2-stroke 3 cyl By: Geoff Squires on 28 October 2019 Great site Outboard Spares. Replaced the fuel filter & spark plugs on our ‘new to us’ Mercury 90hp 3 cyl a few months ago. After at least a dozen hours of operation we removed the plugs to fog the cylinders for winter and noticed that the top two plugs are somewhat blackened and clearly generating some sort of ignition in the cylinder, but the bottom plug is clean as a whistle – looks like the day I put it in. The motor seems to run reasonably well at low RPMs but does not put out as much power as I think it should at higher RPMs and sometimes seems to bog down like it is starved for fuel at higher RPMs. Any suggestion where I should start to diagnose this motor’s issues?
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Around that ERA they moved to a CDM Module assembly on each cylinder instead of a traditional coil. These were/are prone to failing as they age. If it is this type, you could swap the CDM Modules around (move the middle to the bottom and bottom to the middle) and see if you start getting spark on the bottom plug that you were not previously. If the spark does follow the middle CDM then you’ll know you have a faulty CDM. The same can be done if you just have standard coils fitted. To me it sounds like this is the issue (coil breaking down under load) given the upper two plugs look like they are firing and the bottom appears like it’s not. Good Luck.
2001 Tohatsu 25 By: Daniel Mcwilliams on 26 October 2019 Hi. I have a starting issue, I’ve replaced solenoid put a new battery in, the starter motor engages but does not turn over. I’ve checked all lines and terminals for corrosion but they are clean. Pull start is fine thankfully but electric start won’t happen. Is it possible faulty ignition switch?
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Thanks for your inquiry. I’d suggest carefully bypassing the solenoid with a set of jumper leads to the starter motor and see if the starter motor then turns over. If it does, you can assume the battery leads or the solenoid are no good. It could be the ignition switch, but unlikely. The ignition switch just sends 12 volts to the solenoid to open it. If the solenoid is opening for power to go through the solenoid and then the starter is actually trying to crank over, I’d say you have a problem with your leads or the starter motor itself. Much luck. cheers
97 mercury 175 efi By: Cody on 24 October 2019 Motor starts no problem and has good spark and compression. Turn it on and it idles pretty good with a small miss but its had it for about a year. Recently though once I take it down the lake say 2 or 3 miles and shut it off it runs fine at high rpms. But once I fire it back up it has a harder time starting usually have to give it gas to start it and to keep it running it will sometimes take off fine but it loses 3 cylinders and just Boggs. But after a minute or so it will take back off firing on all the cylinders then it drops them again. I’ve went through and check and replaced alot of fuel related parts except got into the fuel injection. Could this be the switch boxes? I read in my manual that the fuel regulator could cause something like that to happen but even with the new regulator it’s only running 35 psi when it should be up to 90psi. I’m lost
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, If the fuel pressure should be at 90 PSI then it’s possible that the high pressure fuel pump in the VST (vapor separator) needs checking. Otherwise as far as ignition is concerned, yes it does sound awfully like a faulty switchbox or stator coil. I’d be leaning to faulty switch box though as in my experience these type are prone to failing as they get older. Good Luck! cheers.
90 Hp mercury 2 stroke 3 cylinder By: Neil Taylor on 17 October 2019 Motor overfuels and has this coffing sound in the water with no power and when motor idles only 2 of the 3 plugs make a difference but all three have spark but only 2 firing, could this be carburetor issues?? thanks in advance
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, possibly a carburetor issue. I probably need a bit more information regarding the “no power” and “overfuelling”, as in when is the engine overfuelling (RPM range) and when does the engine lack power (RPM Range or throttling onto the plane)? If your carburetors haven’t been serviced for a while I’d start with them and then go from there. cheers
Mercury 2004 50HP 2 stroke outboard By: Alf on 15 October 2019 had a couple of months of perfect running then last Saturday whilst heading back at the end of days fishing travelling at around 16 knots engine just died stopped dead. checked fuel ok tried re starting and it started but very weak and only ran for 5-10 seconds then cut out this kept going on for an hour or so – on some starts i was able to put it into gear but it would shut down immediately – finally gave up and had to get towed at home have tried and same deal its starts strong but will only idle for seconds and then dies any thought? many thanks in advance alf
Outboard Spares Response
Hi Alf, Hmmm, could be one of 2 things. 1) water/debris in fuel. It could be that you’ve got to the bottom of your tank (end of the days fishing) and sucked up some water/contaminants in the fuel. Water will always sink to the bottom of the tank as will contaminants. Your engine may just need the filters cleaned or replaced and the carburetors cleaned. 2) Ignition issue. Likely stator. From what you have described it sounds like a faulty stator (if it is not a fuel issue). You’ll need a digital multimeter with a DVA adapter to check the stator output. Read between the white wire with green trace and green wire with white trace. With these wires disconnected from the rest of the ignition system you should have between 180 and 400 volts. If you then connect the wires to the rest of the ignition and the reading is lower, then you may have a bad CDM Coil module. Good Luck. cheers
1994 Johnson 50hp oil injected By: Jake on 8 October 2019 Hi there, I just picked up a 94’ Lowe pontoon boat and I’m having some issues. When I bought it the owner took me out on the lake and everything was working fine. I took it out on the lake a month later and it started up with the help of a little throttle. After a few minutes at no wake speed it would die but would start back up and die at idle again. Finally got it running decent and it seemed as if it was running degraded on one cylinder. And then finally died and wouldn’t start at all. Took it home and checked it out. Both cylinders #1/#2 have 120 compression and were getting spark. I noticed the plugs were fouled which looked like it was running rich so I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the carbs. Tried cranking again and nothing. I noticed that when I pulled the plugs and cranked it to clean it out it was blowing a lot of oil out of the bottom cylinder. I’ve read that the oil pump plug can come loose with the vro pumps if I’m not mistaken and leak oil into the bottom cylinder possibly causing this? Any help?
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, I’d say that while the engine has been sitting without use for over that month period the VRO has leeched oil into the bores. You may have to use a fair bit of cold start (neutral throttle lever) and fuel priming through your ignition switch to get it started if the engine is really oiled up. I’d say this is all it is. If it were me, i’d disconnect the oil injection side of the pump and just pre-mix the fuel and oil at 50:1. VRO pumps were typically unreliable and the best insurance was to just mix your own oil and fuel and be done with it. Much luck
1990 Yamaha 90 2 stroke By: Michael Labbe on 7 October 2019 Hard starting. Breaks down around 1900 rpms. Runs fine on higher rpms. Seems to be bottom cylinder not firing properly. Changed coil and cleaned carbs. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. I pulled the plug wire on top and middle cylinder at 1900 rpms and each stalled the motor. When I pulled bottom cylinder wire motor still run.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, I would try a spark test with a spark tester and see if the bottom cylinder is definitely not firing. I would then swap the coil primary wires to the CDI Unit (change their positions, number 3 to number 1, number 2 to number 3 etc) and see if the problem stays on the bottom cylinder or follows the CDI Unit Output position on the CDI Unit. If it does follow the CDI Unit Output position, then you may have a faulty CDI unit, or a faulty Timer Base. To confirm if it is a faulty timer base, you will want to test the timer base wires connecting to the CDI unit. Ensure voltage is even across the 3 input wires. Good Luck. cheers
1991 Evinrude 200hp By: Jordan childress on 30 September 2019 I was driving it running about 45mph and the motor just shut off. It would start up then die now it has no spark. I disconnected the black and yellow wire from the power pack (the plug) then I turn the key and it fires right up and runs but under load it only goes 6mph like it’s limiting the amount of power. I replaced the ignition switch and still did the same thing when the black and yellow wire is disconnected from power pack the engine runs just can’t shut it off but when it plugged in there is no spark?? I just noticed the rectifier is burnt but I was told that would not keep it from running and the kill switch has continuity I also check the shift switch and it has continuity please HELP!!! I’m so fustrated…
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, I would disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and re-test the sytem. I’m confident from what you have said that this will be your problem. cheers
92 johnson 115 with vro By: Tony Martine on 27 September 2019 Motor starts fine and idles good. I take it to full throttle and it runs smooth for about 5 seconds and then it bogs down or lurches. I take throttle back to slow idle for 10 seconds go back to full throttle runs smooth for 5 seconds bogs down again.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Thanks for getting in touch. It is hard to say exactly what the problem may be. From what you’ve said about it bogging down after full throttle I’d be thinking it’s not getting enough fuel at WOT. This could be because of the VRO system or perhaps a restriction in the fuel system somewhere. Alternatively it could be an ignition issue, possibly stator or pack but very hard to determine with the limited information at hand. Try the fuel system first and see how you go, in particular check there are no blockages in the tank breather lines. Good Luck.
1985 Johnson 50hp VRO By: Ryan West on 16 September 2019 Hi, Just got a second hand boat. The engine jumps beautifully and goes great. The only problem is it seems when I stop the engine gets flooded. Could this be due to the location of the red choke switch internally? I believe it was open entirely. I just don’t want to take out again until rectified as it would take about ten minutes of clearance time to get going again.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, To my knowledge the red valve on the primer solenoid can cause flooding if left in the open position as it is effectively a choke. cheers
1977 70hp No Spark When Cool By: Skip on 14 September 2019 With Fall arriving and cooler weather in northern Maine my 1977 3 cylinder Evinrude quite often does not get a spark on any cylinder sparkplug in the morning. I have tightened all the wires on the power pack. I have discovered on a sunny day if I take the hood off the engine and expose the powerpack to sunlight for an hour or so I do get spark to all cylinders and the engine runs fine at all speeds around the lake. I have also determined on a cool cloudy day when I don’t get any spark that if I use a heat gun and focus the hot air on the power pack for about 15 seconds that all the plugs get spark and the engine runs normally out on the lake for extended periods. Thus far I have not been able to find any mention or resolution of this problem and am reluctant to purchase a new powerpack until I am reasonably certain it will resolve the problem.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, I think you have figured out your problem. Faulty Power-pack. Everything you’ve done points to that being the problem. You could test the stator with a digital multimeter and DVA adaptor to see if the output of the stator is at least 150 to 400 Volts, but I honestly think what you have done is quite ingenious and I’d be certain a new power-pack will fix your issue. cheers
30 hp 2 stroke yamaha outboard By: James Kelly on 12 September 2019 At initial start-up, everything runs fine. I can run the outboard for 2-3 hours with no loss of speed or power, but if I shut the motor down or if it runs out of gas, I will have to wait for 20-30 minutes before it will restart. Runs good on all cylinders. Any thoughts on what to check for?
Outboard Spares Response
Hmmm, interesting! Initially, I was thinking your engine was simply flooding but if it does the same thing when it runs out of gas then it may not be….however, is it an oil injected model?? If it is it could be that your engine is over oiling and this basically means your spark plugs may be fouled due to all the extra oil. Check the plastic “joint link” fitting that is on the end of the rod that runs between the oil pump and the carburetor (on the oil pump end). If this connector is cracked or damaged, it could be causing your oil pump to “default” to full advance which means your engine will constantly be running at it’s maximum oil delivery. If that’s the problem it’s an $11 part and all fixed in 5 mins. Hoping this is the problem. Let us know how you go. cheers
1989 90hp Johnson 2st V4. Missing when warms up By: Richard on 9 September 2019 Only when it warms up, either 45 min normal running or 20 min towing tubes. Engine starts missing. Replaced plugs and was a little better for a short time. Replaced coil packs (with a loan pack) and no change. Checked HT leads with meter and all good. Checked fuel breather not blocked. It is not limp mode (I don’t think) as no alarm goes off. Runs ok at low revs then misses when cranked up
Outboard Spares Response
HI, When you say coil packs I assume you mean coils? I’d be checking the power-pack/s. Power-packs tend to start failing as the engine heats up when they are nearing the end of their life. Power-packs will also cause a miss. The other thing that will cause a miss is simply an engine that needs the mixture screws tuned on the carbs. However, if you suspect that it’s more than a simple carburetor adjustment then I’d be looking at the aforementioned scenario of a faulty power-pack. cheers
bass tracker won’t start. By: rick on 1 September 2019 Hi I installed a new switch on 97 force outboard. when I tried to start it turned over 4 or 5 times it was firing;then turned the switch nothing , I checked the starter it was engaged with the flywheel will not drop below the flywheel but both will turn by hand.
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, I’m assuming you are referring to an ignition switch. I’d be checking your battery voltage as it could be that you just have low battery voltage and this is causing the starter motor to not turn over fast enough. It could also be old battery leads. IF, the engine is now not cranking at all (even with a fully charged battery and good battery leads) then I’d check the way you’ve wired in the new switch. NOTE: It could also be a faulty starter solenoid OR tired starter motor, but I’d check the previously mentioned suggestions first. cheers
1990 8 hp Johnson, no spark to top cylinder By: Peter on 31 August 2019 Hello, I have an 8 hp Johnson,circa 1990. Its only running on the bottom cylinder. I put an inline spark tester in place, and the top cylinder is not getting any spark. I have replaced the coil with another one from a parts engine and that didnt make a difference. I have swapped plug wires and that also didnt make a difference. I did order a new CDI that I put in place, but with the new CDI, i didnt get spark in either cylinder so im sending the CDI back, but just wondering if this could be anything other than a bad CDI?
Outboard Spares Response
Hi, Thanks for getting in touch. First I’d be disconnecting the stop switch (black wire with yellow trace) from the circuit and re-testing. It could be you have a faulty stop switch causing you grief. If this doesn’t fix the problem then I’d consider the stator is potentially faulty. I’d be testing it’s output using a digital multimeter with a DVA adaptor. I think you should be getting between 150 to 400 Volts between the brown and brown and yellow wires. Hopefully this helps. cheers
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Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc
I don’t see any obvious fault with the wiring, but would suggest tracking down and checking the kill switch wiring.
There should be continuity from the spark plug boot to ground. Typically in the range of 5,000-10,000 ohms (coil secondary resistance). If the circuit is open, first check the coil ground wire. Is it possible that the coil’s primary lead (goes to the dots) and the ground leads are swapped? I don’t know the color codes by heart. do you have a manual
If needed, you can probably use OMC “Universal Magneto” coils in this motor.
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