Concrete Anchors For Squat Rack? The 80 Detailed Answer

The design of concrete wedge anchors allows them to anchor fasteners into concrete. Concrete wedge anchors work by being inserted into a hole drilled in concrete. The concrete wedge anchor is then spread and wedged securely in the concrete.

There are many DIY projects that require you to screw or nail into concrete such as: For example, attaching shelf brackets to a concrete basement wall, bolting a 2×4 pad to a concrete floor, or attaching metal tubing

to concrete surfaces or for attaching steel post anchors to a concrete patio. Unfortunately for many DIYers, using concrete screws or fasteners can be a frustratingly difficult and almost impossible task. But with the right tools and a few specialized fasteners, anyone can learn to fasten almost anything to concrete.

Get more exclusive, in-depth projects by signing up for Pop Mech Pro!

Here we explain four different techniques and types of concrete screws and fasteners specifically designed for fastening to concrete, and most can also be used to fasten into brick, stone and cinder block. Note that before installing most concrete fasteners, you must first drill a hole with a carbide-tipped masonry bit. The quickest and easiest way to drill in concrete is with a hammer drill, which uses both bit rotation and percussive blows to drill the holes. If you don’t have a hammer drill, you can use a traditional corded electric drill or cordless drill, but it takes at least twice as long to drill each hole. It is also important to always blow or vacuum the concrete dust out of the hole before inserting the fastener. Because concrete fasteners hold much more securely in clean, dust-free holes.

[Best Cordless Drills For Home Projects]

By Lisa Hobby

The 5 Best Squat Rack Mat Options

1. 2 3/4” Sterling Athletic Rubber Tiles for squat rack mats

2. 3/4 inch rubber mats for lower squats

3. 8mm interlocking rubber tiles

4. 1/4 inch rubber floor casters

5. 1/2 inch rubber floor casters

For anyone serious about adding weightlifting to their gym, a squat rack is a must-have. They are used in strength training and powerlifting and are essential to a successful solo weightlifting program. Serving as the mechanical spotter for a free weight training program, squat racks, which resemble a guillotine, provide safety and risk reduction for athletes who might otherwise be buried under heavy weights a great addition to the lifting range. Not only does it increase stability and safety for the lifter, but it also provides protection and soundproofing from heavy weights that may fall or fall. From horse box mats to puzzle mats and many varieties in between, Greatmats solutions offer the best value and protection for your floor and your athlete. You may be interested in a comfortable squat rack mat that is also the best at absorbing sound when weights are being used. In this case, the Sterling Athletic Rubber Tile flooring option should be considered. These rubber tiles are hard wearing, extremely durable, easy to clean and offer excellent sound deadening and shock insulation. They can withstand even the heaviest weights, high-impact workout moves, exercise equipment, and more—and keep unwanted noise from weight drops at bay. Here you will find the best floor mats for squat racks that absorb sound, protect the floor and provide a cushion for your body. Rubber gymnastics mats offer an economical squat rack mat option that maintains a high level of toughness. This ¾ inch, 4×6 inch mat is an extremely popular and durable option. Although very affordable, the quality is still high. Even with heavy use, this mat does not slide around easily. At 91 pounds, this mat holds up without glue, especially when laying multiple mats side-by-side. At 24 square feet per mat, this product works really well under a squat rack. Interlocking rubber tiles are also a popular mat option under a squat rack. This product is made in the USA from durable and durable rubber flooring. These interlocking tiles require no glue for easy DIY installation. The 8mm thickness provides a durable protective surface and is specifically designed to withstand the weight of exercise equipment – such as a squat rack. This product is very easy to clean and maintain and will serve you well for years to come. Rubber floor casters also offer a great solution for squat rack mats, with the ¼-inch confetti option being a quality and affordable choice. This rolled rubber mat is made in the USA from recycled rubber. It’s 4 feet wide and can be cut to any length from 25 to 100 feet in length, making it ideal for large strength training rooms. Rubber floor rollers are easy to attach to concrete with glue or double-sided tape. In some cases they can even be laid dry. They can also be installed on hardwood provided there is a backing paper to prevent reaction between the rubber and the wood floor surface. Rubber floor casters are available in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Once in place and secured, the rubber flooring roll requires little maintenance, such as sweeping, vacuuming or damp mopping as needed. Geneva rubber with 10 percent color is another popular choice for rubber rollers. This option can be purchased per square foot in any roll length from 25 to 100 feet in length. A linear foot of material equals 4 square feet. The rolls are 4 feet wide. This kind of elastic rubber flooring is very durable and long-lasting. Made from recycled rubber material, this flooring option is considered an environmentally friendly product and can contribute to LEED points in green buildings. It acts as a silencer and as floor and squat rack protection. The wide range of squat rack mat options at Greatmats is quite extensive. The different strains have been installed in hundreds of professional and home studios and offer the very best in quality, service and reliability. Most mats come with a warranty and are specifically designed to withstand the use and abuse of heavy weights and gym equipment. When you choose Greatmats, you can rest assured that your investment will last. Just ask the friendly and knowledgeable staff who will help you find the best option for your space.

TVs are cheap these days. I went on Amazon and found a HUGE flat screen TV for $200.

But it wasn’t always like that.

15 years ago large flat screen TVs were expensive. Think thousands of dollars.

And they were NEW and BRIGHT. Only the cool kids had them.

And the coolest thing was installing one in the wall.

I know we do this all the time these days, but it was a novel idea back then.

There was only one problem.

People weren’t used to hanging a £30 item on the wall.

This can be a BIG problem.

You see, most of the walls are made of drywall floated on studs.

Your walls look solid, don’t they?

Well, the wooden posts behind it are solid wood and structurally sound.

But the drywall above is mostly gypsum…aka chalk.

Would you trust it to hold up a TV?

Well some people did.

And then this happened.

It’s kinda funny…

If it happens to someone else.

But what’s not funny is when a pull-up bar or squat rack fails…because they weren’t properly installed in cleats.

It’s not that hard to get the installation right, but you need two things:

A stringer (read more here) lag screws

What are lag screws?

Lag Screws are heavy duty fasteners used to join wood in applications that need to carry heavy loads.

In other words, you should use lag screws to install a pull-up rig, retractable squat rack, or pull-up bar in wood.

They use a stringer to add structural strength. We typically recommend a 2″ x 4″, 2″ x 6″, 2″ x 8″ or 2″ x 10″ stringer depending on the application

Use 3/8″ x 5″ lag bolts + washers to install the stringer into your cleats

How to Install the Stringer into Your Cleats Use 1/2″ x 2″ lag bolts + washers to install your pull up rig, retractable squat rack, or pull up bar into the stringer

They use shorter lag bolts to install them into the stringer since the stringer is thinner than the lugs you go into.

Also note that “lag bolts” are also called “lag bolts” or just “lag bolts” by some people.

Lag bolts, lag bolts or lags are all the same – just different names.

How do I use lag screws?

To use lag bolts, drill a pilot hole that is slightly smaller in diameter than the bolt width. Then use a ratchet to fully tighten the screw. Don’t forget your washing machine!

Where can I get lag screws?

Any hardware store has them or Amazon (3/8″ x 5″ lag bolts | 1/2″ x 2″ lag)

Okay, how do I install a pull up rig, retractable squat rack, or pull up bar?

From pull-up rigs to retractable squat racks to pull-up bars and more, Fringe Sport has the pull-up rigs (sometimes referred to as “CrossFit rigs”) and squat racks you need – come check us out!

That’s it folks!

Any questions? Or just want to share a picture of your installed rig? Hit us in the comments below, email us at [email protected] or call us at 512.201.4404.

Posted by Walter Rush on April 9, 2019

Power Racks are one of the most versatile pieces of exercise equipment available for both commercial and home gyms.

If you are serious about your workout routine and want to get the most out of your workout, then you should be using a power rack.

If you’re considering putting one in your home gym, you might be wondering if you need to bolt it to the floor?

The short answer is that most power racks SHOULD be permanently attached to the floor. The reason for this is that the device does not move during use. Although power racks are very heavy and usually quite tall, the movement of the heavy weights shifts the rack inch by inch from its original position.

The second reason it should be bolted to the ground is that it reduces the chance of the gear falling on someone so much.

How much do power racks weigh?

Of course, the total weight depends on how many kilos of weight plates are on the rack. But to give you an idea, a power rack like the Body-Solid Series 7 Smith Gym System weighs 793 lbs. You can add up to 400 pounds of Olympic plates, bringing the total to 1,193 pounds. This seems like a huge amount of weight, and you’d think it wouldn’t move at all – but it does. It is therefore best and safest to bolt the device to the floor.

Power Rack that doesn’t need to be bolted

While I personally do not recommend leaving a power rack unsecured – we have had several customers who have purchased the Body-Solid Pro Power Rack GPR378 and installed it without bolting. They report no problems with the unit moving inches from its original location.

security issues

As for the safety issues, bolting the rack is the best and safest way to ensure it doesn’t tip over. Especially if you use the rack for pull-ups and other similar exercises.

If your workout includes (or will include) an exercise like Scrape The Rack, then you can be fairly certain that the machine will shift and move from its intended location on the floor.

As you get stronger and add more accessories to your power rack, you can also shift the unit’s center of gravity by storing them on the rack. If it’s not screwed down, it’s easy to fall over and hopefully not on you.

Overall, my professional recommendation is to always bolt down your power rack.

If you buy from a link on my site, I may receive an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. Learn more

Home > Reviews > Titan T-3 Power Rack Review: Is This the Best Power Rack Under $500?

Did you know you can pay under $500 for a high-performance modular power rack that could reasonably be sold for hundreds more?

The power rack of the Titan T-3 series is this rack. I’ll tell you all about it in this Titan T-3 Power Rack review. Before I go into detail, here is a summary:

Model Pros and Cons Rating Titan T-3 Power Rack

Pros: Sturdy 2″ x 3″ frame with 1100lb rack weight capacity

Huge range of accessories available

Hole spacing west side

Sumo Base for extra wide standing exercises

Compatible with most Rogue Monster Lite attachments. Cons: Must be bolted down for stability

Powder coating is below average; gets scratches/dents easily

May come with some aesthetic flaws

There have been instances where J-hooks and webbing locks have broken; although new versions have been improved. Rated 4.5 out of 5 in Power Racks

In my in-depth review, I’m going to cover all the important things you need to know about the Titan T-3 power rack here: features, options, pros and cons, usage, alternatives – everything you need to consider when choosing the best power rack for your needs.

To clarify, my focus is on Titan’s original rack: the T-3 series power rack, which is 24 inches deep and 91⅛ inches high.

I’m going to talk about the 2nd generation of this rack. Many other online reviews actually speak of the 1st generation. I point this out because the 1st generation had several flaws. I will devote a section to comparing Gen 1 and Gen 2 to clear up any confusion.

It’s also important to note that there are a few variations of the Titan T-3 Power Rack:

Some are deeper.

Some are shorter.

Some attach to a wall and fold out.

Some are in a completely different class of devices. But they still go by the Titan T-3 name and serve a similar function (e.g. squat rack/half rack, squat stands).

I will go into all these variations and alternatives later in my Titan T-3 Power Rack review. However, unless I specify otherwise, you can assume I am talking about the original Titan T-3 Power Rack.

Why buy a power rack at all?

How often have you experienced this situation?

You finally pack up the other commitments you have to take care of for the day and head to the gym for some much-needed physical and emotional decompression.

After wading through traffic and searching the parking lot for 15 minutes, you find a parking lot that requires enough walking to get to the actual gym that you can justify that you’re warming up.

You walk across the gym abyss to see every squat rack taken by backbiters who use the J-hooks to pause sets of bicep curls. You see people quarter squatting. You see weight loaded and people gathered around it and going on like it’s break time at the water cooler.

So wait. And wait. And wait.

You wasted gas getting to the gym. You waste time waiting for the equipment you need. You waste your energy getting mad at the other gym goers who treat your precious squat rack like it’s the centerpiece of a coffee table in a dirty college dorm.

It’s a pity that there is no tax-wise solution to this problem, isn’t it? NOT CORRECT! The answer is a home gym with a power rack at its heart.

Why consider the Titan T-3 versus other power racks?

It’s true, we have tons of options when it comes to home fitness equipment.

We’re inundated by the minute with infomercials about the next big high-intensity home workout or thigh champion. But if you’re reading this Titan T-3 Power Rack review, you probably take your training a little more seriously and really want to work hard.

The problem is that college and commercial grade fitness equipment can be very expensive.

What if I told you there was a power rack that was comparable to equipment used in serious gyms or college power plants AND cost around $500?

The power rack of the Titan T-3 series is this rack.

It’s my top recommendation for strength athletes looking to ditch their crowded and overpriced gym for a home gym—without breaking the bank.

Things to consider before buying the Titan T-3 Power Rack

​Is the T-3 Power Rack ideal for you? If you agree with the following points, the answer is yes:

I want to train at home.

. I want to do barbell training exercises that require lifting and lifting the weight.

. I want to lift heavy weights while being as safe as possible.

included. I don’t want to get crushed under the bar on exercises like bench press and squats. Safety spotter bars prevent this.

under the bar for exercises like bench press and squats. Safety spotter bars prevent this. I don’t want to accidentally trip and fall backwards onto the floor when I have the bar on me. A cage that completely surrounds me prevents this (unlike a squat rack/half rack, which is completely open at the back).

on the floor with the pole on me. A cage that completely surrounds me prevents this (unlike a squat rack/half rack, which is completely open at the back). I want a rack that I can grow with over the years in terms of durability and expandability (i.e. lots of accessories/add-ons available).

for years to come in terms of both (i.e. lots of accessories/add-ons available). I’m NOT just looking for the cheapest rack on the market. But at the same time I have to consider a budget.

If you’re brand new to lifting and not sure if you’re going to stick with it, then you might be better off going for a super cheap boned option.

Otherwise, you’ll end up with a large hanger that’s worth $400-$500! If you fall in love with lifting, you can always upgrade as you outgrow the cheap rack.

Here are a few more questions to ask yourself before you pull the trigger to buy the Titan T-3 Power Rack:

Do I have room for the shelf? I know this seems like a no-brainer, but if you don’t have the space for the rack AND you can’t safely run the elevators, then you might want to explore other options.

Can you anchor this shelf to a floor? This means it screws into either a cement floor or a wooden platform (homemade or purchased). If not, consider a shelf with a stabilizing cross brace at the bottom/back of the shelf. Better yet, consider a power rack like the Titan X-3 with a double-reinforced “flatfoot” design. This allows you to have a non-bolted “pass-through” design (i.e. no need for the lower/rear cross brace). For more information on this rack, see my Titan X-3 Power Rack review.

Again, this rack is for the dedicated barbell training enthusiast who wants to get the most bang for their buck. You may want to consider different options if 1) you’re a complete novice who isn’t sure if you’ll still be lifting weights in a few months, or 2) you’re a very intermediate or elite-level powerlifter are…

…But for anyone who is committed to training and is not overly strong, this power rack is absolutely perfect

Titan T-3 Series Power Rack Pros and Cons

I summarized the pros and cons at the start of this Titan T-3 power rack review, but I’ll expand the list a bit here:

advantages

Payable

Robust modular 2″x3″ power rack

Hole spacing west side

Compatible with attachments from other companies that have 2″x3″ racks with Westside spacing

Countless attachments are available and more are being created all the time

Super versatile when using attachments

Secure

Shorter versions of T-3 available for low ceilings

Deeper versions of T-3 available for more space between posts

Folding wall rack and more compact half-rack versions of the T-3 for home gyms with limited floor space

Disadvantages

Titan has documented cases of J-hooks and seat belts failing, although they have made improvements to address these issues.

Not the best powder coating

It may arrive with some cosmetic damage

May require anchoring to the ground to maximize security

Intermediate and elite powerlifters may prefer a beefier 3×3 power rack.

Compatible with many Rogue Fitness accessories

One final point to note: it looks like most Rogue Monster Light rack accessories (e.g. Rogue R-3) will fit in this rack. The Titan T-3 Power Rack is basically a clone design of the Rogue R3 Rack.

This is great news for anyone looking to buy the T-3, as Rogue makes tons of great rack accessories at very reasonable prices.

Some people do not trust some of Titan’s safety accessories like their seat belts and J-Hooks due to documented failures of these in the past. So they buy Rogue-J hooks and safety devices to attach to the T-3 frame. Titan has improved this accessory, but it’s still reasonable to be concerned, especially if you’re a very strong lifter.

Buying the T-3 frame and Rogue security accessories is a good strategy to save money on the rack while maintaining the security of certain accessories.

minor problems

In my personal research I found some other minor issues worth mentioning:

powder coating. Most frames have a slightly uneven structure due to the powder coating. This just means that lightly scratching it can lose some of its aesthetic qualities. This does not affect the integrity or usefulness of the rack itself. In general, the powder coating is of poor quality compared to more expensive brands. This explains the common complaint about all generations and models of this particular rack – There are often some “dents” and scratch marks right out of the box.

Most frames have a slightly uneven structure due to the powder coating. This just means that lightly scratching it can lose some of its aesthetic qualities. This does not affect the integrity or usefulness of the rack itself. In general, the powder coating is of poor quality compared to more expensive brands. This explains the common complaint about all generations and models of this particular rack – There are often some “dents” and scratch marks right out of the box. pull-up bars. The cross braces are welded. It might have been wiser and more efficient to make this a screw mount. While this would be a more powerful method, it would undoubtedly increase the cost of the rack.

The cross braces are welded. It might have been wiser and more efficient to make this a screw mount. While this would be a more powerful method, it would undoubtedly increase the cost of the rack. J hook. This definitely triggers my obsessive-compulsive disorder. Both J-Hooks point to the right. That means if you use a wider grip, you’re much more likely to get your hands caught between the hooks and the bar. This also means that moving the bar into the J-hook for repositioning will result in one side detaching slightly from the rack. This design probably saved some money, but having opposing J hooks is a lot more convenient. Another issue seems to be that some of the J-hooks may not fit snugly on the rack and have a bit of “slack”. That only sounds slightly frustrating as a security issue because they still seem to be working just fine.

This definitely triggers my obsessive-compulsive disorder. Both J-Hooks point to the right. That means if you use a wider grip, you’re much more likely to get your hands caught between the hooks and the bar. This also means that moving the bar into the J-hook for repositioning will result in one side detaching slightly from the rack. This design probably saved some money, but having opposing J hooks is a lot more convenient. Another issue seems to be that some of the J-hooks may not fit snugly on the rack and have a bit of “slack”. That only sounds slightly frustrating as a security issue because they still seem to be working just fine. Weight storage pegs. Because of their 50mm (2 inch) diameter, pinpoint accuracy is basically required to get the weights onto the pins. A slimmer stylus would make storing and moving records much less frustrating.

Important Specifications and Features of the Titan T-3 Power Rack

Overview of the specifications and features of the T-3 series 24-inch power rack

​42⅛” internal width

53¼” outside width

24″ internal depth

32¾” external depth

1100 lbs weight capacity

Solid 11 gauge steel frame

2″ x 3″ steel tubing

1¼” pull up bar with thin grip

2″ Fat Grip pull-up bar

84″ pull up bar height

Overall rack height 91⅛” (82″ version available)

2 J-Hooks (Reel J-Hook and Sandwich J-Hook also sold separately)

2 “Pin & Pipe” safety catches (originally included as standard; now sold separately; flip-down safeties, strap locks and spotter arms are also sold separately)

4 weight storage pegs (originally included as standard; now an optional add-on)

4 ribbon pins (originally included as standard; now sold separately)

230 lbs total rack weight

Ground carrying capacity for added security (optional for light lifting)

J-hooks and spotter arms coated with UHMW plastic to prevent bar and pin damage.

Westside hole pattern: 1″ hole spacing in the bench area. 2″ hole spacing top and bottom.

5/8″ (16mm) hole diameter

Total floor space of 12.11 square feet (excluding platen support pins and barbell length)

Great value at a low price

Solid construction and overall quality rack

1-Year Limited Warranty: Repair, replace or refund.

FREE same day shipping (must be ordered before noon CST Mon-Fri)

Many optional attachments are sold separately, which I will discuss later.

Very low price for very high quality

You get all of the above specs and features for less than $500. This is unheard of.

Essentially the same as the Titan T-3, the Rogue R-3 is almost twice the price!

Construction & overall quality

With the Titan T-3 Power Rack you’re basically getting college strength and conditioning quality hardware at Craigslist yard sale prices. When you receive your T-3 rack, you get all the home workout safety features you need for an intense workout.

Easy deconstruction for transport

The rack is held together with 5/8″ screws and can be disassembled into multiple pieces for easy portability.

If you want a better idea of ​​how easy it is to assemble/disassemble, you can find the instruction manual here

Strong 11 gauge steel frame

Don’t let the easy deconstruction of the rack fool you. Each piece is made from high quality 11 gauge steel. This is a gold standard to ensure your rack will stand up to heavy use and abuse.

Yes, there are power racks on the market made from heavier gauge steel. Namely 7 gauge steel. However, for the vast majority of strength athletes, that’s overkill. 7-gauge racks are typically only required in busy commercial gyms, serious strength-oriented gyms, or high-level athletic training facilities.

In all other scenarios, anything thicker than 11-gauge is overkill in almost all other scenarios. Especially for home gyms. The exceptions are for highly intermediate to elite lifters who do lifts close to 1100lbs or more (e.g., heavy squats, rack pulls, or power shrugs).

2″ x 3″ steel tubing

The 11-gauge steel tubing that makes up the Power Rack frame is 2″ x 3″. Many other power racks in the budget price range are 2″x2″.

The extra inch in tube dimension—combined with the 11-gauge strength—makes the T-3 Power Rack tough enough for commercial use.

1100 pounds. weight capacity

I already told you that the Titan T-3 Power Rack is strong and durable.

But how robust is it? Very. Specifically, it has a rated capacity of 1100 lb. (Total capacity for the entire frame is 4400 lbs).

Do you plan to even come close to increasing this capacity in the near future? Ye? Probably not. With this rack you are well prepared.

J hooks & fuses

In addition to the quality construction of the frame, the Titan T-3 comes with a pair of J-hooks like the ones pictured below:

The T-3 used to come standard with pin and barrel fuses. However, now they are an optional add-on. If you prefer you can get the flip down safeties or the strap safeties. Of course, safety spotter arms are also available for the front of the luggage rack.

disk storage

In the past, this rack came standard with 4 bolt-on weight plate mounts for the back of the rack. However, these are now an optional add-on.

You can also purchase optional adjustable plate holders that can easily be moved to different holes by hand

tape pins

This rack used to come standard with 4 ribbon pins. However, these are now an optional offering.

Remember: The T-3 rack has holes all around the rack, on each tube of the frame. This allows you to attach the tie pegs anywhere on the top or bottom of the rack. Even the side if you wanted.

With it you can do any kind of band work. Some examples are:

Band bench press and reverse band bench press

Band squats and reverse band squats

Reverse band deadlifts and squats

This greatly expands the number of exercises and exercise variations you can do with this rack.

However, there is one caveat: you must screw down the rack to actually use the ribbon pins.

Screw on bottom for better security (Must for heavy lifting)

The feet of the shelf have holes for fixing in the floor. Some people choose not to screw the rack down. This is fine until you start using really heavy weights.

Especially if you plan on using heavy weights, securing the rack with some concrete anchors for the rack’s safety features will pay dividends later.

If you decide to bolt it down, you’ll need the right hardware. If you’re bolting it to a concrete floor, you should have 3″ x 3/8″ concrete anchors like the one shown below:

Large diameter 3″ x 3/8″ Tapcon (LDT) concrete anchor for attaching rack to concrete floor

Then you need to drill an initial 3/8 inch hole in the concrete using a masonry bit or impact drill. Then screw the anchor into the concrete with the appropriate socket (will likely be a 9/16″ socket but may depend on the actual anchor you receive).

Power tools can be hired from Home Depot, Lowes etc if required.

You can also screw the frame to a wooden platform. Titan recommends using 2″ x 3/8″ lag screws for this. If your platform is deeper, you can use longer draw bolts for more security.

2″ x 3/8″ tie bolts to attach the rack to the wooden platform

UHMW plastic coated J hooks and spotter arms

UHMW plastic coated J-hooks and spotter arms to prevent damage to both the barbell and the metal part of the J-hooks/spotter arms

Westside lace pattern

Another nice feature of the rack is its “Westside” hole pattern.

This means the area of ​​the rack that would be used for the bench press has a much tighter hole spacing (1″) to safely and effectively accommodate any lifter. The areas above and below this region have a larger distance between the holes (2″).​

The narrower hole spacing allows for more precise placement of spotting bars and J-hooks and thus an individual set-up.

How many times have you used a 4″ to 6″ spaced rack and your only options were basically either a half bench press to get it off the rack or yanking your shoulder blades out hard to release the J-hooks .

These problems are a thing of the past with the hole spacing of the Titan T-3 Power Rack Westside Style.

1 slim pull-up bar and 1 fat pull-up bar

The T-3 Power Rack comes standard with two different pull-up bars. That’s twice as many as most other power racks! Especially when compared to racks in the same price range.

Both bars are straight (as opposed to curved, parallel, or “monkey bar” shaped bars).​

The picture above shows that:

One of these is a 1.25″ thick “skinny” standard width pull-up bar. This is roughly the same width as an Olympic barbell.

The other is a 2″ thick “fat” pull-up bar. This is called a “Fat Grip” bar because it’s thicker than normal. This makes it harder to hold on. As such, it’s an excellent tool for grip strength training and building your forearms.

Optional multi-grip pull-up bar

The Multi-Grip Pull Up Bar Attachment for the T-3 is a brand new optional accessory that I am releasing about two months after the publication of this article

As the name suggests, this is a versatile pull-up bar that gives you the ability to use just about any grip width or wrist position you want.

Just look at it and you can imagine the possibilities:​

Wide-grip pull-ups (hands on straight part of bar)

Extra wide grip pull ups (hands on the angled part of the bar)

Neutral grip pull-ups

Wide pull-ups with a neutral grip

Half-pronated pull-ups (with diagonal bars – many find this more comfortable on the wrists)

Corner pull-ups (hands on bars that intersect at right angles)

Optional spotter arms

Titan Fitness offers these optional spotter arms that expand the capabilities of your T-3 rack. They allow you to do a variety of off-rack barbell exercises that:

Should be performed with one point (e.g. any variation of bench press, overhead squat)

Requiring starting and/or ending barbell lifts at a specific height (e.g., any variation of rack pulls, shrugs, pin press)

Made easier or more convenient by having a specific start and/or end point (e.g. Push Press, Hang Clean, Hang Snatch, Hang Pulls, Rows, RDL)

These spotter arms are strong and durable. Just like the T-3 Power Rack itself. Here are their key specs:

24″ length. This gives you plenty of room for just about any exercise you want to use spotter arms for. It’s the same amount of space you have in the T-3 rack.

This gives you plenty of room for just about any exercise you want to use spotter arms for. It’s the same amount of space you have in the T-3 rack. 14 pounds per arm. These are pretty heavy. But that’s because they’re made of thick steel (see below).

These are pretty heavy. But that’s because they’re made of thick steel (see below). 7 gauge steel construction. This is thicker than the 11 gauge steel that makes up the rack frame. The increased thickness allows the spotter arms to still carry heavy weights despite being attached to one side of the rack.

This is thicker than the 11 gauge steel that makes up the rack frame. The increased thickness allows the spotter arms to still carry heavy weights despite being attached to one side of the rack. 800 lbs weight capacity. This is slightly less than the 1100 lbs capacity you get with rack mounted pin & pipe security devices. This is to be expected, however, as these safety bars only attach to one side of the luggage rack. Weight capacity would be less without the thicker 7-gauge steel.

This is slightly less than the 1100 lbs capacity you get with rack mounted pin & pipe security devices. This is to be expected, however, as these safety bars only attach to one side of the luggage rack. Weight capacity would be less without the thicker 7-gauge steel. UHMW plastic coating. The UHMW plastic on the top prevents damage to the barbell (e.g. bar knurling wear, dents, scratches) and to the spotter arms themselves.

Optional dip bar attachments

A dip bar attachment does not come standard with the T-3 Power Rack. That’s common. Dip attachments are also not standard on most other racks.

However, you can purchase a dip attachment as an optional accessory. In fact, 3 dip bar attachment options are available.

Dip Option #1 – Separate Dip Grips:

The first option I will discuss is the separate dip bar grips shown below:

Here is the full list of features and specifications:

This dip option consists of two separate dip handles

1″ thick steel handles

Durable finish on steel part

Plastic handles to prevent slipping

1.6″ tubular steel frame

16″ length x 11″ width (the dimensions for the frame of each piece – not the actual handle piece)

Tapered grips that allow you to use a narrower grip towards the front of the grip or a wider grip towards the end of the grip. Its widest point – at the end of the handles – is 20″ apart.

Rated weight of 500 lbs

You can get these dip grips for as little as $30, but only if you select them as an “add-on” when purchasing the T-3 power rack. If you buy them without the stand, the price is $49.

This is the most popular of the two dip mounting options. This is because it’s been around longer than the second option, and it’s a bit cheaper.

Dip Option #2 – “Y” Dip Bar:

The other option is the “Y” dip bar attachment. It’s a relatively new addition to the arsenal of attachments available for the T-3.

Here are the key features and specifications of the Y dip bar attachment:

This dip option is a single Y-shaped piece of steel, as opposed to the separate dip handles discussed above. The main advantages of the Y construction over the separate handles are faster adjustment and greater stability.

Quick release pin attachment system for easy setup and tear down.

Tapered grips allow you to use any grip width from as narrow as 17″ to as wide as 24″.

The heavy duty solid steel construction with laser cut gusset plate (i.e. the triangular support section with the “T” in it) makes it even sturdier than the single dip bar grips shown previously.

27″ overall length

15.5″ handle length

1 7/8″ (47mm) thick handle diameter

This ‘Y’ dip attachment retails for $69. That’s a cheap price for what you get. Still, it’s more expensive than the separate $49 dip bar handles (or $30 if you buy them with the rack)…

…But you should expect to pay more. Yes, the separate dip grips are more than adequate for doing heavy weight dips.

However, the Y-bar is a superior piece of hardware. For one, it’s more stable. The greater advantages come from its more elegant design, which makes it:

Easier to Adjust: The Y-bar is obviously one-piece instead of the two separate handles. This basically makes it twice as easy to put on, take off or adjust.

The Y-bar is obviously one piece instead of the two separate handles. This basically makes it twice as easy to put on, take off or adjust. More Ergonomic: It has thicker 1 7/8″ (47mm) grips that are easier to grip than the 1″ (25.5mm) thick grips on the separate dip grips option

It has thicker 1 7/8″ (47mm) grips that are easier to grip than the 1″ (25.5mm) thick grips on the separate dip grip option More Versatile: It has a wider range of reach sizes (17″ – 24″) thanks to the combination of tapered/angled handles and long handles (15.5″).

Dip Option #3 – “X” Dip Bar:

The third dip option is the Cross Rack ‘X’ dip bar attachment. It’s the newest of all dip attachments. Es wurde tatsächlich veröffentlicht, nachdem ich den ersten Entwurf dieser Titan T-3 Power Rack-Rezension fertiggestellt hatte, also musste ich zurückgehen und diesen Abschnitt hinzufügen!

Zum Zeitpunkt des Schreibens dieses Titan T-3 Power Rack-Reviews gibt es noch keine Bewertungen für diesen Dip-Aufsatz, da er so neu ist. Außerdem waren auf der Produktseite keine Spezifikationen aufgeführt – nur eine grundlegende Beschreibung der Verwendung …

…Also habe ich mich an den Kundensupport gewandt, um weitere Informationen zu erhalten. Sie gab mir einen grundlegenden Überblick über die Spezifikationen und Funktionen, die ich mit meiner eigenen Analyse unten erweitert habe:

Die „X“-Dip-Stange bietet viel Unterstützung, da sie an vier verschiedenen Punkten im Gepäckträger befestigt ist. Vergleichen Sie dies mit den zuvor besprochenen separaten Dip-Griffen (d. h. Dip-Option Nr. 1). Jeder Griff wird nur an einer Seite außerhalb des Racks befestigt. Wenn ich raten müsste, würde ich sagen, dass der Dip-Balken „X“ wahrscheinlich etwas stärker ist.

Das Ändern der Höhe der Dip-Stange ist nicht so schnell oder bequem wie die beiden anderen Optionen. Sie müssen die Höhe jedes Stifts und jeder Rohrsicherheitsstange anpassen, dann müssen Sie die Stange im Rack an ihren Platz bringen. Dieser negative Punkt ist natürlich nicht das Ende der Welt, aber es lohnt sich, darauf hinzuweisen.

Das Coolste an dieser Dip-Stange ist, dass sie auch als Multi-Grip-Klimmzugstange verwendet werden kann! Dazu stellen Sie einfach die Stift- und Rohrsicherungen ganz oben am Rack ein. Setzen Sie dann die Dip-Stange „X“ darauf. Jetzt haben Sie die Möglichkeit, verschiedene Arten von Klimmzugvarianten zu machen, die Sie mit nur den beiden mitgelieferten geraden Klimmzugstangen nicht machen könnten. Dazu gehören Klimmzüge mit einem neutralen Griff, einem halb pronierten Griff und einem halb supinierten Griff – einschließlich engerer und breiterer Griffweitenvariationen davon.

Sie können kreativ werden und neben Klimmzügen auch andere Übungen machen. Einige Beispiele sind umgekehrtes Rudern, Liegestütze mit Neigung oder Neigung, Trizepsstrecken mit dem eigenen Körpergewicht und Neigungsplanken.

Die „Clips“ (d. h. die becherartigen Befestigungspunkte) sind dazu bestimmt, auf die Stift- und Rohrsicherungsstangen zu passen. Die Titan T-3-Rohre haben einen Außendurchmesser von 1,8″ (46 mm) – was ich erwähne, falls Sie erwägen, diesen Aufsatz für ein anderes Power Rack zu kaufen.

18 kg Gesamtgewicht

46″ Gesamtbreite

23,5″ Gesamttiefe

1,25″ (32 mm) Griffdurchmesser

Optionale Monolift-Rack-Montage-Befestigung

Der verstellbare Monolift-Aufsatz ist ein neues optionales Zubehör für den T-3, das ein oder zwei Monate nach der Veröffentlichung dieses Titan T-3 Power Rack-Reviews herauskam. Mit diesem Monolift-Aufsatz können Sie die Höhe je nach Bedarf entfernen oder anpassen.

Ich war sehr überrascht (auf positive Weise!), als ich sah, dass Titan sich entschieden hat, diese Art von Aufsatz herauszubringen, da es zeigt, dass sie auf Powerlifter ausgerichtet sind, von denen einige einen Monolift im Training und/oder bei Wettkämpfen verwenden …

…Falls Sie mit Monoliften nicht vertraut sind, es ist ein Gerät, an dem Sie das Gewicht für Kniebeugen auspacken, ohne das Gewicht herauslaufen zu müssen.

Wenn Sie die Stange von den Haken des Monolifts lösen, bewirkt das Gegengewicht, dass die Haken nach hinten und aus dem Weg schwingen. Wenn es Zeit ist, das Gewicht zu erhöhen, lehnen Sie sich einfach leicht nach vorne und bringen die Stange wieder in Position.

Sie müssen kein konkurrenzfähiger Powerlifter sein, der in Verbänden antritt, die Monolifte verwenden, um von diesem Aufsatz zu profitieren. Vielmehr können Sie einfach ein ernsthafter Kraftsportler sein, der alleine schweres maximales/nahezu maximales Gewicht beugt – und der die zusätzliche Sicherheit haben möchte, die diese Befestigung bietet (d.h. kein Stolperrisiko während des Walkout oder Rerack).

Natürlich nutzt man bei so schweren Lasten neben dem Monolift auch noch die Fanghaken.

Optionaler Landminenaufsatz

Der Landmine-Rack-Aufsatz ist eines der T-3-Power-Rack-Zubehörteile, das direkt nach der Veröffentlichung dieses Titan-T-3-Power-Rack-Reviews kam. Aufgrund ihrer Vielseitigkeit sind sie eine hervorragende Ergänzung der wachsenden T-3-Zubehörlinie. Eine Landmine verschafft dir Zugang zu dutzenden neuen Übungsvarianten.

Was genau ist eine Landmine? Es ist ein Gerät, das ein Ende einer Langhantel an einem festen Punkt in Bodennähe hält und verankert. Aber es hat zwei Gelenke, mit denen Sie das gegenüberliegende Ende in jede Richtung bewegen können: links, rechts, oben, unten und rundherum!

Hier sind einige der Übungen, auf die Sie mit einem Landminenaufsatz zugreifen können:

T-Bar-Reihen

Landminenpressen

Kniebeugen mit Landminen

Landmine hack squats

Landmine RDLs

Landmine single leg RDLs

Landmine lunges

Landmine floor press

Landmine unilateral rear delt rows

Landmine clean and press

Landmine rotations

And many more…

Optional Parallel Handle (for Use with Optional Landmine Attachment)

Just like the two attachments mentioned above, this is yet another new Titan T-3 power rack attachment–hot off the manufacturing line!

The parallel handle attachment is meant to be used with the landmine attachment (discussed above). This slides on the end of the barbell that’s being used in the landmine. Then you put the barbell plates on after it.

​This handle design gives a convenient, comfortable and secure way to grip bar. This handle is really only for doing one exercise: T-bar rows. But if you’re like me, and T-bar rows are one of your favorite back exercises, then this handle and the landmine are must-haves.

You could get away with only the landmine attachment and just do T-bar rows with your hands clasped together, but once you get strong enough, your grip will give out way before back muscles do…

…A step up to that would be using a makeshift handle (e.g. using a loose v-bar pulley attachment). That can work pretty well, but it’s still not ideal because the grip is usually too close, and you have to work at keeping makeshift handle stable.

With a proper handle attachment, you can lift more weight with better technique. And you can focus 100% on using the target back muscles, as opposed to being distracted any grip/handle issues.

The only downside to the Titan parallel landmine handle is that it only allows for a fixed width neutral grip. It doesn’t allow you to use a pronated (overhand) grip. Though, if you really wanted, it looks like there’s a simple workaround to this: Just stick another bar through the gap; then pull it upward against the undersides of the parallel handles, and toward you against the metal with “TITAN” engraved in it. This should keep the bar fixed in place pretty well. And now you can do T-bar rows with a pronated grip at varying grip widths.

Optional Power Rack Extension Kit

Don’t feel like like the T-3 power rack has enough space? No problem!

Just get a one of the T-3 power rack extensions. These are the benefits of getting an extension:

4 additional weight plate holders

​2 additional j-hooks

1 additional 1.25″ (32mm) diameter pull up bar

Eliminates the problem of weight plates getting in the way of some exercises due to being stored on rear uprights of the rack itself (i.e. half of the plates would encroach into rack space). The extensions give plenty of clearance.

More space for doing (some) exercises. You shouldn’t do any exercises that require a spot in the area created by the extension. However, anything that requires just j-hooks or pull up bar — and can be done within that space — is fair game. This is especially useful if you have 2 barbells and are supersetting certain exercises, or if you’re training with a partner who’s doing different exercises (though, it may make sense for them to use the front of the rack depending on the exercise).

There are 2 types of extensions​ available:

24-Inch Rack Extensions: There is a 24 inch power rack extension for the normal height (91⅛”) T-3 power rack (both the 24″ depth and 36″ depth versions) as well as one for the short (82¼”) T-3 power rack (both the 24″ depth and 36″ depth versions).

There is a 24 inch power rack extension for the normal height (91⅛”) T-3 power rack (both the 24″ depth and 36″ depth versions) as well as one for the short (82¼”) T-3 power rack (both the 24″ depth and 36″ depth versions). 36-Inch Rack Extensions: There is a 36 inch extension for the normal height (91⅛”) T-3 power rack (both the 24″ depth and 36″ depth versions) as well as one for the short (82¼”) T-3 power rack (both the 24″ depth and 36″ depth versions). If one of your primary goals of getting an extension is to maximize the amount of exercises you can comfortably do in this area, then you should go with this 36″ extension. On certain lifts, the extra foot of depth will make the difference between having plenty of room to move vs. sometimes knocking into to uprights or the plates on the storage pegs.

Titan T-3 Power Rack Variations & Alternatives

Another good point about Titan is that they try to accommodate space limitations. Because of this, there are several available variations of the T-3 rack to fit any space situation.

T-3 Series Short Power Rack (24″ Deep & 36″ Deep)

Got low ceiling clearance? Titan thought of that and designed a short rack for basements and low clearance spaces.

Obviously, a shorter space is going to limit some of your standing overhead movements and make pull-ups trickier. But, the short full cage variation will allow you to train at home with all the safety features of the full size T-3 Rack.​

Titan makes makes these 2 short power racks:​

T-3 Series Squat Rack (aka Open Rack)

This is a great option for someone that doesn’t have the floor space for a whole closed cage. The T-3 Squat Rack variation is basically a set of Squat Stands with cross beam and a wider base to help with stability and safety.

Even though it is only half a rack, there is still plenty of space for bench pressing, pull-ups, and basically every other exercise you can perform in the full cage rack.

The only downside here is that you are missing out on the exceptional safety option of having the “pin and pipe” spotting system. Spotter arms are still available, but are nowhere near the same level of safety as a full cage.

T-3 Series Independent Upright Squat Stand (With Pull Up Bar & Without Pull Up Bar)

If you have the space for a rack, but need it to be movable/storable to still have usable space, the Titan T-3 squat stands are an excellent option.

You can buy them with or without a connecting pull up bar.

Although you are sacrificing all of the safety features of a closed cage or a half squat rack, you can still use these stands for squatting, bench pressing and overhead pressing.

You really can’t beat the mobility here, as it’s simple to move them out of the way when you’re done.

I would strongly suggest making sure you have a spotter or a training partner with you when you use this because, as I mentioned before, all of the safety features of the other racks are not compatible with this rack option.​

T-3 Series Fold Back Power Rack Wall Mount (21.5″ Deep & 41″ Deep)

Do you want a garage gym? Do you have limited space because you park your car in the garage? If you answered yes to both of these questions, then a T-3 fold back wall mount power rack is the perfect solution for you.

It folds flat against the wall so you have plenty of space to park your car when not in use.

When it’s training time, just pull your car out of the garage before you start your workout. Then fold the rack open, hit the weights, fold it back against the wall and pull back into the garage. Easy as pie.

The wall mounted rack comes in 2 heights (82″ and 91″) and 2 depths (21″ and 41″).

The foldable rack can be closed firmly against the wall so that it only sticks out about 3 inches. Although the convenience and functionality of these are phenomenal, you sacrifice the total weight capacity of the rack.

You are going to be limited by the structural integrity of where ever the rack is attached. And although you can use the spotter arms with these racks, you obviously can’t use the pin and pipe safety catches, flip down safeties or strap safeties…

…These things might not be a problem for most fitness enthusiasts and crossfitters, but if your goal is maximum strength and really pushing weights, this variation may not be ideal. Though, if you need the folding feature due to space limitations, then this is your only option.

Titan X-2 Power Rack

The Titan X-2 is very similar to the T-3 in it’s basic structure. It’s key differences are smaller uprights (2″ x 2″), stronger steel (9 gauge, which is thicker than the T-3’s 11 gauge) and overall greater weight capacity (3000 lbs vs 1100 lbs). Not to mention, it’s cheaper than the T-3 by about $35 to $80 depending on the height.

There are downsides, though. For example, there are very few accessories available for the Titan X-2 currently–because it is so new (it was launched in October 2017). Plus, it’s only available in 24″ depth.

If you’re interested, be sure to read my full Titan X-2 Power Rack review for all the juicy details!

Improvements Made in 2nd Generation

The 1st generation of the Titan T-3 power rack was okay, but it left a lot of room for improvement. The 2nd generation improved on a lot of the first gen deficiencies. I’ll discuss the improvements below:

Welds

Even with the 2nd gen T-3 racks, the welds are still not the prettiest things on earth. However, numerous reviews (including some from actual welders) claim these are more than adequate in sustaining the heavy abuse associated with lifting heavy barbells.

One of the big improvements of the 2nd gen T-3 over the 1st gen was the quality of the welds.

The first generation of T-3 Power Racks utilized spot welding. This reduced the structural integrity of the entire rack and even led to several failures. However, Titan learned from their mistake and now utilizes a much stronger circumferential weld technique.

Pin & Pipe Safeties

Another first generation issue seems to be the common complaint of the “pin and pipe” safety catches design having washers welded inside of them. So, if you do ditch or drop a bar, the weight would be unevenly dispersed on the pins themselves. This could lead to all kinds of structural issues.

But, again, Titan listened to it’s customers and took the washers out of the T-3 Power Rack. Here is a customer review addressing this exact resolution:

Here is another video showing the correction of all the first generation issues:

Reviews from Others

The Titan Fitness website has 70 Titan T-3 power rack reviews with an average rating of 4.9 our of 5 stars.

As far as positive reviews, I had TONS to pick from. I’ll start with these two from the Titan site:

As you can see, the users and owners of the T-3 rack have a wide array of health, fitness, and strength goals. One commonality among all the reviews is that no matter what the aim of your physical exercise program, the Titan T-3 Power Rack is versatile enough to help you in the comfort of your own home gym.

Are You Ready to Buy?

I hope you’ve enjoyed my Titan T-3 power rack review!

Have you decided to take the plunge on this budget-friendly rack? I don’t think you’ll be disappointed, especially if this is your first power rack.

The rack frame itself is plenty strong itself. And remember that if you’re weary of Titan’s safety accessories (e.g. j-hooks, spotter arms, strap safeties), you can can always buy the Rogue version.

The best place to buy the rack is on the Titan Fitness website. You’ll always get the best price plus free shipping (in the US). Here’s the links to the two main racks:

​Lastly, here are links to t​he listing of power rack accessories and extensions on the Titan Fitness website:

Putting something under your power rack protects your weights and floor and makes lifting safer. Here’s a look at what type of flooring you should use for your power rack.

Investing in a power rack is one of the highlights on your journey to building an epic home gym.

But when it comes to protecting your floor, things get a lot trickier.

In this article I will tell you everything you need to know about choosing the right flooring for your power rack.

Let’s get in right away.

Do I need to put anything under my power rack?

Well, no, you don’t have to. There are no power rack police to come by and sternly speak to you if you don’t.

But there are some very good reasons why you should put something under the stand.

Protect the floor.

For starters, some type of flooring will protect your floor and foundation.

Accidents happen, weights are dropped, and while an exercise mat or horse boxing mat won’t completely eliminate the risk of damage (especially if you’re lifting a lot of weight), the right flooring can go a long way in protecting the floor. regardless of concrete, hardwood, concrete, etc.

I installed the EVA foam mats on my first power rack.

noise reduction.

Gym floors of any type are great for reducing the rattling and thumping that comes with lifting heavy weights.

For example, when you put down a barbell, it vibrates through the pillars of the stand and into the floor below.

There are many benefits to being able to do heavy lifting in your garage at home, but if you have kids sleeping in the next room it’s nice to mitigate some noise.

A strong and level floor holds the rack and gear in place when vertical (e.g. squats) and lateral (exercises with bands, using a TRX strap from the top bar of the cage) pressure is applied to the rack . Lateral pressure in particular will cause the rack to move unless it is placed on solid ground.

Stabilizes the rack (when bolted).

Many squat rack manufacturers recommend bolting the rack to the floor.

For heavy six-post racks, this isn’t really a problem, but for the rest of us, and especially owners of the cheaper $300-500 racks Amazon proliferate, it’s worth bolting down.

The inexpensive racks I am referring to are very light, some are made from 14 gauge steel (which is flimsy) making them more prone to seesaw and slide.

See also: How much space does a power rack need?

If you put something under your mat, e.g. B. Rubber mats for horse boxes, and then bolting the rack to the floor, you get the best of both worlds: protect and stabilize the rack while increasing safety during use.

Of course, another solution to stabilizing the rack is to load the floor with bumpers or weight plates on a peg to load the rack from below.

Safety first.

Finally, fitting a proper floor under your power rack makes lifting safer.

As?

Well, for starters, the rack sways and wobbles less when you exercise, whether you’re re-lifting a bumper plate-loaded barbell or doing pull-ups from the multi-grip bar on top.

Second, the floor underneath a rack helps level things out so the rack is level when you’re working out.

What should you use under a power rack?

There are many options for things to put under a power rack.

Here are the main ones, including pros and cons for each.

Rubber or High Density EVA Foam Mats – 💲

There are two types of interlocking mats that you can place under your power rack:

High density EVA foam. Cheap, usually about 1/2″ thick.

rubber (like stable mats). Slightly more expensive but more durable and available in thicker sizes including 3/4″.

I used interlocking EVA foam mats under my first power rack, a $500 four-post ARMSTAFF beast.

The foam mats were inexpensive (I bought about $90 and had more than enough mat for a rack, an exercise bench, and my wife’s peloton), easy to assemble like a puzzle, and had an antimicrobial coating to reduce smell and mildew.

EVA foam, while inexpensive, bursts apart easily.

High density foam is great because you can train on it without sinking too deep into the mat. A firm floor is crucial for heavy lifting (hence heavy deadlifts in running shoes isn’t the wisest move) and reduces the excessive range of motion in your lifts.

Rubber mats are slightly more expensive but offer more options in terms of thickness, with rubber horse box mats (these are commonly used on horse lifts) being up to ¾ inch thick.

The thicker the mat gets, the more bounce it develops, making it less than optimal for standing while lifting.

Rubber mats placed under a power rack are typically 1/2″ to 3/4″ thick, while EVA foam mats are 1/2″ thick.

Both have advantages and disadvantages.

EVA foam mats, while inexpensive, can break apart fairly quickly, with the edges fraying after a few months.

Rubber mats cost a little more but give you more thickness flexibility and are more durable. Rubber mats are also heavier, which prevents slipping and weighs down the platform.

Speaking of…

Lifting platform – 💲💲💲

This is the premium option for serious lifters who want the best for their power rack.

Lift platforms are a combination of a steel frame and rubber mats (with options for placing plywood in the middle).

Within this category there are two types of lifts: Olympic or dead lifts.

The main difference is the shape.

Deadlift platforms are shaped like 8ft by 4ft rectangles that are primarily made for, you guessed it, deadlifts.

Olympia platforms are square (2.4m x 2.4m) and provide plenty of space for you to safely set down overhead lifts.

Power Racks simply bolt into the lift, widening the base of the rack and increasing stability.

Drilling the rack into the platform is a great option for people who are tired of bolting their power rack to the ground or concrete.

Lift frames vary, as do the finishes each brand offers.

For example, Rogue’s Olympic platform has either a crumb finish (crumb rubber is the same material as the “bouncing” bumper plates) or a smooth rubber finish.

Rogue’s Oly platform is huge. At 8′ by 8′ it has more than enough room for a power rack.

This platform also has a 2 x 2 inch steel frame that is bolted to the floor for serious stability.

As you can imagine, all this stuff comes with a price increase. Aerial platforms can get pretty expensive, even the cheap frames are around $250 (mats not included).

Rogue’s Olympic platform, the largest they have, starts at $395 for the frame, and then add the cost of the mats ($300 to $600 depending on whether you’re using plywood in the middle want to have).

Also see: The Ultimate Guide to Power Racks

If you want to go the DIY route, there are some great plans floating around the interwebs.

The Art of Manliness put together this awesome DIY platform for around $170.

Later I will tell you about my current car lift which is super easy to assemble and inexpensive to assemble.

Power Rack Flooring Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put a power rack on carpet?

While carpet can be effective at reducing noise and protecting the floor underneath, carpet is not a great floor material for a power rack.

First of all, the stand is more likely to slip and slide on carpet, especially deep pile carpet, which is very soft and will cause the stand to wobble as it is not very flat.

Also, a stand without rubber tips on the feet will damage carpet, leaving indentations that are difficult to remove over time.

Finally, sweating on a carpet will result in a smelly workout area pretty quickly as it’s harder to clean.

However, carpet is a decent “temporary” solution if you don’t have the budget for proper gym flooring or don’t want to wait for it to arrive.

Can I put a power rack on hardwood?

It is not advisable to place a power rack directly on hardwood floors. While hardwood floors, whether they are parquet, cork or solid wood, are inherently very strong, they are not indestructible.

All it takes is dropping a 45-pound weight plate or loaded barbell on it and you’ll chip the finish (easy fix if you’re moderately handy) or worse, buckle the planks.

Use stable mats at the bare minimum to prevent damage to your hardwood floor. They are significantly less expensive than the potential damage and expense of deadlifting onto hardwood or permanent marks left by the base of the power rack.

But even rubber mats have their limitations, and more serious lifters will want to invest in something sturdier (which we’ll look at next).

I would not recommend EVA foam mats for hardwood floors. They are not thick enough and over time the rack and weights will sink into the ground leaving marks and damage.

Finally, adding a protective layer between the hardwood and your rack reduces vibration and rattling throughout the house when you’re lifting weights.

You are doing both the structural integrity of your home a favor and the sanity and eardrums of the people who share the home with you.

What should I put under my Hardwood Floor Power Rack?

A lot of this depends on the type of flooring, when the house was built, and how much weight you will be using on the power rack.

If you really want to protect your hardwood floors, here’s a setup I’ve tried in the past that provides excellent protection for hardwood floors and your weight training equipment.

⭐ Carpet padding for a base layer. This is to protect the hardwood from scratches and chips from the plywood sheets.

⭐ Plywood for strength and rigidity. Plywood is an excellent type of wood (which is also inexpensive) that distributes the weight from the bar and drops.

⭐ Pit mats for noise and shock absorption. Rubber mats to cushion the impact of the weights, reduce noise and also for the comfort of not getting splinters from the plywood in your feet.

This combination of three layers may sound like an exaggeration, but each layer has its own function, making the others more effective in protecting the floor and gym equipment.

Also, the materials required to do this would cost around $150-$200, which is an inexpensive way to protect the hardwood floor and give you peace of mind while exercising.

The final result

Investing in a power rack is one of the best things you can do for your health and your wallet.

With no commutes to the gym, no queues for the rack, and no gym membership to pay month-to-month, your power rack of choice brings big lifts to the comfort of your home.

By placing the right material under the Power Rack, you ensure that the rack will keep doing its job, your floor will be unharmed and your profits will continue unhindered.

More stuff like this:

The 6 best power racks for your home gym. This list of the best power racks offers the best value for money and will take your home workout to the next level. Let us do this.

What is a flat foot power rack? Flat foot power racks are perfect for people who want a rack that doesn’t need to be bolted to the floor. Learn about flat bases, the pros and cons, and more.

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Family handyman Solve your concrete fixing problems with our favorite concrete anchors. We show you how to assemble light, medium and heavy fasteners. From this group you can choose the one that best solves your fastening problem. You may also like: TBD Time A full day of Complexity Beginners costs less than $20

Overview: types of fasteners and how to hang things on concrete walls

Photo A: Light Duty Good for wall hangings up to approx. 50 lb. Photo B: Medium Duty Good for wall hangings up to approximately 200 lbs. Photo C: Heavy Duty Good for structural purposes and high strength.

At the turn of the century, the homeowner (or even the carpenter) didn’t have many choices of fasteners to join wood or metal to concrete. The usual solution was a hardened nail or wooden dowel with a screw in the middle. Now, at the turn of the century, we find ourselves with more solutions than the typical homeowner needs. In this article, we show you our favorite concrete fasteners that will solve most of the concrete fastener problems you are likely to encounter. We’ve categorized fasteners as light, medium, and heavy materials, but remember there are no hard limits here. Some concrete fasteners classified as light may be considered moderate, and so on. Also, some of the heavy duty fasteners come in thinner and shorter shapes for lighter applications.

Obtain a Impact Drill All fasteners shown here require a pilot hole for the fastener or anchor to slide into. The best way to drill holes in concrete, concrete block, mortar and brick is with a hammer drill. A standard drill bit will do in soft brick and mortar, but will only frustrate you and burn out bits in harder materials. DON’T BURN OUT YOUR FAVORITE 3/8 IN DEVICE. DRILL. If you don’t have a hammer drill, borrow, rent, or buy one. Most hammer drills have a switch or collar so you can switch from percussion drilling to regular drilling. You will find many other uses for it.

Light: plastic anchor

Photo 1: Drill and insert plastic dowels First mark and drill all the holes, insert plastic dowels, then mount the bracket with screws. Photo 1A: Close-up of plastic anchors Purchase the correct size screw for the anchor size.

These are the fasteners that you will buy and use the most. They’re great for attaching shelf brackets, towel racks, rake and shovel brackets, shower doors, pipe and pipe brackets, and almost anything else lighter than 50 lbs. They require a pilot hole at least as deep as the screw will penetrate (think of the thickness of the material you are fastening). Each pack specifies the hole size and screw size (#4 through #12) that work best.

Best use:

Concrete, cinder block, mortar, brick, tile and stone.

How to use:

In the right place, use a hammer drill and a masonry bit to drill a pilot hole to the depth your screw can go. Tap the plastic dowel into the hole. It should fit snugly but be easily driven in with a hammer. If the hole gets a little bigger, use a larger screw to push the plastic against the walls of the hole.

Disadvantages:

If the concrete is soft or friable, the plastic anchor may come loose and rotate as you turn the screw. To correct this problem, use a utility knife to cut an additional anchor into lengthwise strips and drive the strips (with the screw removed) alongside the existing anchor.

Light Duty: Soft Metal Shield Anchor

Photo 2: Drilling and Inserting the Metal Shield Insert the metal shield anchor into the hole, then thread the screw through the strap and into the shield. Photo 2A: Close-up of metal shielding anchors Soft metal shielding anchors are larger than plastic anchors.

These anchors were the mainstay for many years, especially before plastic anchors were developed. They still work well today and are particularly good for softer materials like brick and mortar that cannot withstand the stress of heavy-duty anchors.

Best use:

Concrete, cinder block, mortar, brick, tile and stone.

How to use:

Use the same method as a plastic anchor. Drill the correct pilot hole (see package instructions), tap the sign into the hole and screw the piece of wood or metal to the wall.

Disadvantages:

Sometimes soft metal shielding anchors can snap, especially on larger diameters and if you apply too much torque with a wrench. Fastener failure is difficult to repair. If the fastener loosens in the hole, remove it. Cut strips of solder wire and slide them alongside the anchor while tapping it back into the hole. The extra thickness of the wire will help the shield hold the hole as you tighten the screw.

Light-duty anchor: Drop-in anchor

Photo 3: Driving in the anchor and pin Hit the pin with strong blows of the hammer on the impact fastener. The fastener slides into the hole and expands at the back to wedge the fastener against the concrete. Photo 3A: Close-up of the hammerblow anchor. The correct size pin is supplied with the anchor.

The best thing about knock-in anchors is that they are quick to install. No need to fiddle with nuts and washers; Just drill the hole to the right depth and hammer it home. These are great for hanging 3/4-in. Support strips and metal clips and straps.

Best use:

Concrete, concrete block, mortar and brick.

How to use:

Hold your wood or other material in place and drill into the concrete to the correct depth. Slip into the anchor (Photo 3). To finish the job, hit the exposed pin with a hammer and drive it in.

Disadvantages:

Once you have anchored high-impact fasteners, there is no easy way to remove them without destroying the material or the fastener. If the fastener comes loose, leave it in place and drill another hole. Do not use high impact fasteners in brittle concrete or mortar. Use a plastic anchor instead.

Medium stress: socket anchor

Photo 4: Slide sleeve into pre-drilled hole Install grab rails and railing brackets with sleeve anchors to soft masonry such as brick and concrete block. Slide the sleeve into the pre-drilled holes and tighten. Photo 4A: Close-up of concrete socket anchors Socket anchors have either a bolt head (Photo 4) or a bolt head.

These concrete anchors or bolt anchors for wood come in a variety of sizes and will hold up to 200 lbs. The sleeves clamp the sides of the pre-drilled hole and become tighter as you tighten the screw or bolt.

Best use:

Concrete, concrete block, mortar and brick.

How to use:

First, drill a pilot hole of the correct size (3/8″, 1/2″, etc.) through the wood or metal and into the concrete. Slide the concrete socket anchor into the hole. Hold the object to be fastened firmly against the wall, as the anchor only pulls it slightly tighter as you tighten the screw or nut. Tighten the fastener until it is secure.

Disadvantages:

Overtightening the nut will crack the fastener or crack the concrete around the hole. If that fastener fails, you’ll need to drill another hole a few inches away and try again.

Medium duty: concrete screws

Photo 5: Screwdriver/Concrete Drill Combination Tool A special drill and sleeve assembly lets you drill holes and drive screws quickly. Buy them from well-stocked hardware and hardware stores. Photo 6: Insert the hardened screw Pre-drill the correct size screw hole at the correct depth and screw in the special hardened screw with a cordless screwdriver or drill. Photo 6A: Close-up of a concrete screw Use a hex wrench (Photo 6) to install these special hardened screws.

Using concrete screws is the quickest method for attaching top rails, windows and doors, pipe clamps and electrical boxes. Drill the custom-sized pilot hole (see package for exact bit size) and drive the super-tough, high-profile threads of the concrete screw into the concrete with a cordless screwdriver. Buy 3/16-in. diam. Lighter Duty and 1/4-Inch Screws. diam. Screws for heavier work. The beauty of this fastener is that you can easily unscrew the screw if the part needs to be removed. They are available with hex or Phillips drive heads.

Best use:

concrete and concrete block.

How to use:

Use a special drill bit in your hammer drill to drill a pilot hole through the workpiece (if it’s wood) and directly into the concrete. Tighten the screw with a cordless screwdriver. Hex heads are easier to drive, but the heads protrude slightly above the surface after tightening.

Disadvantages:

Not good for brittle concrete or mortar. Have some extra screwdriver tips handy; The screws are so hard that the screw tips often break.

Heavy-duty: sleeve anchor

Photo 7: Insert the anchor into the pre-drilled hole Drill a 1/2 inch hole. Holes, insert the anchors and tighten the nuts to attach a 2×6 ledger board to a concrete block. Photo 7A: Close-up of the Big Cousin sleeve anchor of the smaller version shown above. Don’t overtighten.

These anchors in large 3/8-in. to 1/2 in. diam. Versions are perfect for anchoring heavy, load-bearing frame members such as e.g. B. Deck Pads.

Best use:

concrete and concrete block.

How to use:

Drill straight through the wood and into the concrete with a masonry drill bit and a hammer drill. Use a depth gauge to get the correct depth, then blow the dust out of the hole with a turkey syringe (don’t use your breath as the dust will be blown back into your face). Slide the anchor into the hole and tighten the nut and washer to wedge the back of the fastener against the concrete. Don’t overtighten. Try getting the anchor into the solid part of the concrete block for extra security and strength.

Disadvantages:

Over tightening can cause them to loosen. Use a hand wrench like a socket and crank it tight. Don’t tighten them like you would a lug nut on a car wheel. If the fastener fails, drill another hole a few inches away.

Heavy duty: wedge anchor

Photo 8: Drill a hole and tap in the anchor Drill a 1/2-in. Hole through wood and into concrete to attach wooden panels to concrete floors. If you have more than a few holes of this size to drill, take it out with a loaner drill and save yours for medium and lighter pilot drilling. Photo 8A: Close-up of wedge anchor Wedge anchors are powerful and durable.

These are extremely strong anchors for attaching framing members to solid concrete. They are available in a variety of lengths and diameters ranging from 1/4″ to 1″.

Best use:

concrete and stone.

How to use:

Drill a hole the size of the dowel through the wood and into the concrete. Unscrew the nut a few turns and tap it with a hammer. Make sure the washer is in place and use a wrench to tighten the nut.

Disadvantages:

Continuous. Once they’re in, you can’t get them out.

Required tools for this project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project ready before you begin – you’ll save time and frustration.

4 in 1 screwdriver

Drill/screwdriver – cordless

hammer

percussion drill

ear protection

safety goggles

wrench set

Materials required for this project

Hex screwdriver, impact drill, drill/screwdriver combination tool

Avoid last minute purchases by having all your materials ready in advance. Here is a list.

Posted by Walter Rush on April 9, 2019

Power Racks are one of the most versatile pieces of exercise equipment available for both commercial and home gyms.

If you are serious about your workout routine and want to get the most out of your workout, then you should be using a power rack.

If you’re considering putting one in your home gym, you might be wondering if you need to bolt it to the floor?

The short answer is that most power racks SHOULD be permanently attached to the floor. The reason for this is that the device does not move during use. Although power racks are very heavy and usually quite tall, the movement of the heavy weights shifts the rack inch by inch from its original position.

The second reason it should be bolted to the ground is that it reduces the chance of the gear falling on someone so much.

How much do power racks weigh?

Of course, the total weight depends on how many kilos of weight plates are on the rack. But to give you an idea, a power rack like the Body-Solid Series 7 Smith Gym System weighs 793 lbs. You can add up to 400 pounds of Olympic plates, bringing the total to 1,193 pounds. This seems like a huge amount of weight, and you’d think it wouldn’t move at all – but it does. It is therefore best and safest to bolt the device to the floor.

Power Rack that doesn’t need to be bolted

While I personally do not recommend leaving a power rack unsecured – we have had several customers who have purchased the Body-Solid Pro Power Rack GPR378 and installed it without bolting. They report no problems with the unit moving inches from its original location.

security issues

As for the safety issues, bolting the rack is the best and safest way to ensure it doesn’t tip over. Especially if you use the rack for pull-ups and other similar exercises.

If your workout includes (or will include) an exercise like Scrape The Rack, then you can be fairly certain that the machine will shift and move from its intended location on the floor.

As you get stronger and add more accessories to your power rack, you can also shift the unit’s center of gravity by storing them on the rack. If it’s not screwed down, it’s easy to fall over and hopefully not on you.

Overall, my professional recommendation is to always bolt down your power rack.

Having a squat rack that wants to tip off the floor when you’re lifting weights or doing pull-ups can be extremely annoying and frustrating (not to mention dangerous). However, bolting the rack to the floor is not an option for many of us.

So how do you anchor a squat rack without bolting it to the floor?

To anchor a squat rack, you must balance the weight and force you are applying to one side of the rack. There are several ways to do this using weight plates, kettlebells and even bungee hooks.

In this article, I’ll give you 5 different ways (and some bonus tips) on how to anchor your squat rack without having to drill holes in a concrete floor.

How to anchor a squat rack

1. Load a barbell onto the rack

The easiest solution to anchoring your rack is to place a barbell on it and download it. This works best when you have an extra bar so you can use one bar to anchor the rack and still have the second bar available if you want to overlay an exercise with your pull-ups.

How much weight you need on the bar to secure the rack is up to you. I’m 240 with a pretty healthy tilt on my pull ups and about 275 holds my rack down pretty well.

2. Get a weight plate holder

This is by far the easiest and most effective way to anchor a squat rack. In fact, I’ve worked in many college weight rooms where this is essentially the means by which we anchored our squat racks.

Weight plate holders are essentially pegs that attach to your rack and allow for weight plate storage. A pair of 45s on a low pin of a squat rack will keep almost any rack from moving much. Obviously, the more weight you can add, the more effective this option becomes.

The only downside, and it really isn’t much of a one, is that weight plate holders are going to cost you a few bucks. For my rack I could have gotten 4 weight plate holders for a total of $60. I chose not to get them, not so much for the money, they just didn’t make sense for my space.

If you already have your rack (and don’t have plate holders), you can most likely purchase an additional set through the same manufacturer you bought your rack from. If this is not possible, make sure the diameter of the brackets matches the diameter of the holes in your rack. Most likely it will be either 2″ or 3″ but if they are the wrong size they will not work.

3. Stack panels on the base

Stacking plates on the base or “feet” of the rack, or simply leaning a stack of plates against the rack can also help anchor a rack. This won’t be as effective as real weight plate holders in any way, but it will help.

If you’re a lighter person doing pull-ups or just want a little extra stability when lifting your bar, stacking plates on the rack itself may suffice.

However, if you’re a heavier person (like me) trying to do pull-ups, just leaning a few plates against the rack will most likely not be enough to get the job done. You must try one of these other options. (Or a combination of 2)

4. Hang weight from behind

This option can work great if you have pull up bars at the front and back of your rack. You can use jump-stretch bands to hang a plate or kettlebell from the back pull-up bar while you do pull-ups on the front bar.

I usually like to hang my weight vest on the back bar. It works great for drying my vest after a workout and helps anchor my rack. It’s also a cool look that never hurts, in my opinion.

When hanging a weight from the back of the weight, just make sure momentum doesn’t start it swinging. Otherwise you could end up getting hit or punching a hole in the wall.

5. Get creative

All of the above options can be effective in anchoring your rack without having to bolt the rack to the floor.

I’ve tried them all with varying degrees of success, but here’s the solution I’m using now.

I drilled another 2×12 into my wall, which I used to attach my DIY Squat Rack to the wall. So I drilled a hook into the board and set up two posts with my back.

Then I used some bungee hooks I had lying around to attach to the hook and then into a hole in the top of the rack.

That worked surprisingly well. I don’t get any tipping or wobbling even when doing 245-pound pull-ups on my tall and narrow frame. It also doesn’t seem to put any stress on the board or wall.

Bonus tip

If you’re already thinking about this before you buy your shelf, then kudos to you, you’re a planner!

If you’re concerned about how much your rack might tip or wobble, consider purchasing a rack that is deeper (distance from the front posts to the back posts) and maybe even shorter. This is just simple technique. The taller and narrower your luggage rack is, the more prone it is to tip over.

Of course, buying a wider one is more stable, but you may have to give up more space in your gym.

The heavier your rack is, the better it is, at least in terms of stability. Look for a 3 x 3 rack of 11 gauge steel.

Finally, if you’re ok with drilling holes in your wall, then take a look at some wall shelves. These shelves dispense with the two rear posts and instead anchor directly into your wall. These are huge space savers and can be very stable. You just have to decide if you’re okay with anchoring a squat rack to your wall.

If you are, I covered some good wall shelves when searching for the best squat racks under $500.

Final thoughts on anchoring a rack

No need to drill into your garage floor to keep your squat rack from tipping or wobbling during your workout.

Try some of the above solutions, use a combination of two or three of them if needed, or try to get creative and build your own solution.

If you’re still concerned about the stability of your pull-up rack, you might want to consider installing a wall-mounted pull-up bar. They are fairly cheap and easy to install and would eliminate the biggest problem for your rack’s stability.

Whatever you choose, always be careful and safe while exercising in your garage! An unstable frame can be extremely dangerous.

Stay safe and stay strong!