Concrete Cloth Pond Liner? Top 40 Best Answers

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How much does a concrete canvas shelter cost?

How much do they cost? At the moment, the Concrete Canvas Ltd costs around $23-60 per square meter, which means an entire shelter is anywhere from $23,000-32,000.

Can you line a pond with cement?

The most common way to construct a concrete pond is to use concrete walling blocks for the sides. These are skimmed with cement mixed with sharp sand and a fibrous reinforcing material. Alternatively, a pond can be constructed from shuttering and poured concrete but shuttered ponds are prone to cracking.

Can I use concrete instead of pond liner?

A concrete pond is more permanent than a liner pond. This can be a real advantage if the pond is designed and built properly but a real nightmare if it is not. The inside contour can be built so the pond has smooth flowing walls leading from the top to the bottom drain. This can make the bottom easier to keep clean.

Is concrete cloth waterproof?

WHAT IS CC? CC consists of a 3-dimensional fibre matrix containing a specially formulated dry cementitious mix. A PVC backing ensures the CC is completely waterproof. CC can be hydrated by spraying or full immersion in fresh or salt water.

Pond construction and repair

CC consists of a three-dimensional fibrous matrix containing a specially formulated dry cement mix. A PVC backing ensures the CC is fully waterproof. CC can be hydrated by spraying or by full immersion in fresh or salt water. After setting, the fibers reinforce the cementitious mix, preventing crack propagation and providing a safe plastic failure mode. As a result, CC offers a thin, durable, waterproof and lower carbon alternative to traditional concrete.

CC is available in 3 thicknesses: CC5™, CC8™ and CC13™, which are 5, 8 and 13mm thick respectively.

What is concrete canvas used for?

Concrete Canvas | Concrete Canvas® Concrete Canvas® is used for a wide range of erosion control and weed suppression applications. It allows concrete construction with minimal plant and specialist training.

Pond construction and repair

Erosion protection by concrete canvas

Concrete Canvas is a fast, convenient, and environmentally friendly erosion control application that manages and prevents erosion in construction and land developments.

The specially formulated cement mix offers a thin, durable, waterproof, and low-carbon alternative to traditional concrete that minimizes damage to communities, plants, and wildlife.

Find out about permanent erosion control applications

Concrete Canvas is recognized as a durable, cost effective and sustainable erosion control application. The flexible tarpaulin protects soil and infrastructure from weather, pollution and chemical damage on construction sites in agricultural, natural and urban environments.

Contact us to discuss how we can provide erosion control applications to support your project.

Find out about Concrete Canvas

Durable and sustainable solution

Concrete Canvas is designed with durability in mind and guaranteed for over 120 years as an erosion control application. Its strength makes it five times more abrasion resistant than traditional concrete, it withstands all weather conditions and increases soil stability.

Flexible for your project

Concrete Canvas can be adjusted to the size of the soil profile with simple hand tools.

Prevents cracking

With a three-dimensional fiber matrix, Concrete Canvas’s strong fiber reinforcement absorbs any impact affecting infrastructure, preventing cracks and making it completely safe.

Absolutely waterproof

Concrete Canvas has a PVC backing which provides a waterproof alternative to traditional concrete and also makes your infrastructure weather resistant.

Environmental benefits of using Concrete Canvas

Erosion planning is essential to many construction activities. Concrete Canvas not only prevents and manages erosion, but also:

Save the environment

Prevents soil erosion

Maintains water quality

Reduces pollution

Minimizes the effects of water and weather damage

Which Sectors Will Benefit from Concrete Canvas Erosion Control Applications?

There’s a reason Concrete Canvas is used in a variety of industries for its high quality and durable erosion applications. Our unique properties and environmental benefits have established Concrete Canvas as the erosion control solution of choice in many construction projects including rail, road, public works and more.

Concrete Canvas is BBA certified with a durability of over 120 years when used in erosion control applications.

Learn more about the industries benefiting from Concrete Canvas

Why Choose Concrete Canvas for Erosion Control?

Quick to install

Concrete Canvas can be installed up to 10 times faster than most concrete solutions, making it ideal for projects where an erosion control application needs to be installed quickly.

Easy to use

Concrete Canvas Erosion Application is easy to use and does not require heavy machinery to install, just water. Concrete Canvas is also available in portable rolls for easy portability.

cost efficient

The quick and easy installation process makes Concrete Canvas a more cost-effective and logistical erosion control solution than traditional concrete.

Environmentally friendly

Concrete Canvas uses up to 95% less material than other erosion control applications. A single pallet of concrete canvas can cover the same area as two 17t truck mixers, making it an environmentally friendly alternative that produces minimal waste.

What our customers say

Concrete Canvas is one of the most reliable erosion control measures in the world, used in multiple industries to control erosion and improve landscape quality.

Read our case studies

Contact us

Contact us to talk to us about your project or for more information about our erosion control applications. Our experienced and knowledgeable team will be happy to advise you on the most suitable erosion control solution for your project.

Get in touch

How thick does concrete need to be for a pond?

The basic construction of a concrete pond follows that of the liner ponds. The concrete should be 4 to 6 inches thick. Once the dimensions are established and an outline laid out, dig out the soil for the entire pond. Forms must be built in place to hold the concrete while it dries and cures.

Pond construction and repair

Concrete ponds, if built properly, can last a lifetime. In addition, they can be constructed with vertical walls to increase the gallonage to surface area ratio. However, this material is generally expensive and requires great skill to install. If you hire the work done, ask for and check references. Rent Experience! Whether you or someone else is building a concrete pond, a poorly constructed pond will cost more to maintain, repair, or replace than the installation. This is the main reason behind the popularity of the new synthetic building materials.

The basic structure of a concrete pond follows that of a liner pond. The concrete should be 4 to 6 inches thick. Once the dimensions are determined and an outline created, dig up the soil for the entire pond. Forms must be built in place to hold the concrete while it dries and hardens. Reinforcing bars must be cut and fitted into the structure. The pond usually needs to be watered in one day and in one piece or in sections for large sections. Start with the bottom, then the sides, shelves, and finally the top and any covers around the edge. Any junctions of ponds that are poured in sections are critical as the site of future leaks and vulnerabilities to the changing aspects of the soil. An alternative is to pour the pond without molds and just slope towards the walls and pour the concrete thicker to keep the concrete in place. However, this method can lead to weakening of the concrete itself due to low density and air pockets, and can pose problems in placement and maintenance.

Once the pond is constructed it must be treated to correct the alkaline nature of the concrete which would affect the pH of the water. The pH of the water may need regular adjustments for some time after construction. Finally, the color of the concrete needs to be changed to make the pond look right. Apply a pool paint or masonry sealer that contains a dark pigment. This hides the soil and moderates the pH of the pond.

Is a concrete pond safe for fish?

Concrete ponds can be “cured” and made safe for fish without any special coatings. Keep the newly constructed pond filled for a week, then drain and refill. After two weeks, drain and refill again. After three weeks, drain and refill again.

Pond construction and repair

Q

I’ve been in the aquarium hobby for a number of years now and have had more than enough luck and a few setbacks. Having kept aquariums ranging in volume from 35 to 150 gallons, I now feel ready to get outside with my aquarium hobby. Over the past year I have designed a pond that will be 12 feet long, 8 feet wide and 4 feet deep. The pond is filtered through a trickle filter (2 feet square by 4 feet deep). The pond will be constructed of poured concrete and brick (I know most ponds use liners but that’s not for me). The only thing holding back progress is the difficulty of finding something inert and safe for fish to coat the inside of the pond walls. I live in Canada and know that product names can vary, but suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

A

Concrete ponds can be “hardened” and made fish safe without special coatings. Leave the newly created pond filled for a week, then drain and refill. Drain and refill after two weeks. Drain and refill after three weeks. Wait another week and drain and fill a fourth time.

The process is most effective when your water is more acidic: a pH below 6.5 or so. You can also aid the process by using standard pool chemicals (like sodium bisulfate) to lower the pH below 6. In both cases, the water changes are still necessary.

After this break-in period, you can carry out a test. Wait a week after the last pond fill and then test the pH. Then put some fresh tap water in a bowl and let it sit overnight to allow the oxygen and carbon dioxide levels to stabilize. Check the pH the next morning. If the reading is the same or within 0.2 units of the pond water, you can try a live fish test.

Place four to six feeder goldfish in the pond, taking care to even out the water temperature and pH differences between the pond water and their original water. Watch them carefully for several weeks. If they remain robust, active, eating vigorously, and not exhibiting odd behaviors like darting, thrashing, or hovering, the pond is ready for other fish.

However, there are two fundamental problems with this approach. First, it takes a long time. The total test period is 10 weeks – practically all summer in the northern half of the US and Canada. The second issue is that depending on numerous variables, it can take much longer and require many additional water changes. You never know what’s going to happen until it happens.

Much of the waiting and uncertainty can be eliminated by using commercially available, fish-safe pond sealers. These products may seem expensive — and it takes a lot of sealing to cover a large pond — but they’re worth it.

A gallon of HERCO Liquid Neoprene, for example, costs about $80 and covers about 80 square feet in three layers. In general, a good seal usually requires at least three coats, so don’t skimp. Your pond needs 3 to 4 gallons. I suggest buying extra because nothing is more frustrating than running out of a seal by the weekend you’re planning to fill the pond.

There is also a wide variety of rubber and enamel based products. Again, in gallon sizes, they cover about 70 to 80 square feet in three coats. These are sold by water garden suppliers under local brand names. If you can’t find one in your area, call Waterford Gardens, New Jersey at (201) 327-0337 or Sherer Water Gardens, New York at (516) 261-7432.

I wouldn’t risk poisoning the pond (the fish) by using ordinary pool sealer paints. There is no information on toxicity to fish, and some of them contain toxic chemicals to inhibit algae and mildew.

Posted by: Chewy Editorial

Featured Image: Via Aaron Vowels/Flickr

Does a concrete pond need to be sealed?

However, concrete is a porous material and can eventually leach lime and other chemicals into your pond unless you seal the pond with a waterproofing compound. The market provides different products that provide a flexible, rubber-like, waterproof coating for your concrete pond.

Pond construction and repair

A concrete koi pond adds interest to the landscape by providing habitat for these colorful fish. However, concrete is a porous material and can eventually leach scale and other chemicals into your pond unless you seal the pond with a waterproofing compound. The market offers various products that provide a flexible, rubbery, waterproof coating for your concrete pond. Choose a non-toxic product recommended for koi ponds. Ensure proper application by starting with clean concrete free of dust, debris, or living plant matter clinging to the surface.

How long does concrete pond last?

Concrete works well for koi ponds because you can make the pond any shape you want. This durable material will last for decades — an important factor considering most koi live for 25 to 35 years. Concrete also works well for installing large ponds that can accommodate these large fish.

Pond construction and repair

Test the pH of the water with a pH test kit one week after filling the pond for the fourth time. The best pH for koi fish is around 7.5, but they can live in water with a pH between 6.8 and 8.2. If the pH is still above 8.2, drain the pond, refill and wait another week and retest the pH. If the initial pH is in a good range, instead of draining the pond, cover and wait another week to do a second pH test. Koi do not tolerate pH fluctuations well, so you want a consistent reading for two weeks.

Does a brick pond need a liner?

Sealants exist to plug and support a brick pond’s walls, but water pressure is greatest at the point where the walls meet the pond floor, making it helpful to relieve the pressure by installing a pond liner before the pond is filled.

Pond construction and repair

Turn on your hose and slowly begin to fill the well with water. As the pond liner fills up, it begins to sink to the bottom of the pond. When this happens, walk around the perimeter of the pond and gently insert the liner evenly. This will ensure that the liner will not snag or tear from the brick walls. Once the pond is full, the water pressure pushes the liner against the adhesive and bonds it to the bricks, completely sealing the pond.

How long does concrete canvas last?

What is the lifespan of properly installed CC? CC is BBA certified with durability in excess of 120 years when used for erosion control applications. For advice on specific climates please contact Concrete Canvas Ltd.

Pond construction and repair

The level of waterproofing that materials provide is typically referred to in geotechnical engineering with a measure of permeability, the k-value. CC has been tested to BS1377 and has an average k value of between 10-8 and 10-9 m/s, similar to clay; an area commonly referred to as impermeable.

The permeability of a CC-lined structure can be tuned by choosing an appropriate method of bonding the material. For more information, see the document CC User Guide: Connect and Attach.

If overall impermeability is critical to your application, we recommend using our CC Hydro™ material, which incorporates a high-performance containment geomembrane thermally welded with testable bonds for quality-assured containment applications. For more information see the CC Hydro brochure.

How strong is cement cloth?

An early high strength is required for concrete cloth. Compressive strength test on concrete cloth is based on ASTM C473 part 07. Compressive strength of 38 MPa was obtained on 7th day. The 10th day compressive strength was recorded at 40MPa and then 10 day compressive Young’s modulus was 500 MPa.

Pond construction and repair

🕑 Reading time: 1 minute

Concrete mesh is a flexible fabric impregnated with cement. Processes for the production of concrete fabric, properties, materials and applications in construction are discussed. Concrete has evolved enormously and drastically for a long time. New technologies, methods and materials were found and invented to meet the demands. Innovations such as bacterial concrete, green concrete and others have emerged in recent days, one of the concrete technologies that has evolved in the form of concrete fabric. It is a cement impregnated flexible fabric. It hardens when hydrated to form a thin, durable, fireproof and waterproof concrete layer. Concrete mesh’s popularity is mainly due to its flexibility due to its physical properties. Like a soft cloth, concrete cloth can be used to cover the surface of an irregular structure. Concrete cloth takes the form of the external profile of a structure. This concrete requires no plant or mixing equipment. They come in roll form, simply spread the roll where you want it and water. Concrete fabric consists of a three-dimensional fibrous matrix composed of a specially formulated concrete mix. There is a PVC layer on the bottom to make it waterproof. On the other side of the concrete fabric, fibers made of polyethylene and polypropylene yarns are added.

Fig.: Concrete mesh section and details

History of Concrete Fabric

Material properties of concrete mesh

strength of concrete fabric

compressive strength

Bending test on concrete fabric

abrasion resistance test

Physical properties of concrete fabric

thickness

Set time

density

Process for the production of concrete mesh

Preparing the substructure

Placement of concrete mesh

Cut

Fastening or anchoring

hydration of concrete fabric

immersion

spray

Spray or cure

Application of concrete mesh in construction work

Concrete mesh for slope protection

Concrete fabric mining applications

Dust suspension through the use of concrete cloths

Applications of concrete mesh in trench

Concrete mesh applications in pipe protection

Benefits of Concrete Mesh

Restriction of concrete mesh

Concrete mesh cannot be over-wetted and excess water is always recommended.

Do not spray high pressure water directly onto the concrete sheet as this may wash out a channel in the material.

Concrete mesh has a working time of 1-2 hours after hydration. Therefore, do not move CC once it has started to harden.

Working time is reduced in hot climates.

If the concrete mesh is not fully saturated, setting may be delayed and strength reduced.

Market availability of concrete mesh

The installation of concrete mesh is 10 times faster compared to traditional concrete. It can be easily installed, nailed or attached to any host with nails or adhesives. They are easily man-portable, eliminating the need for on-site machinery. Concrete mesh technology was found for emergency shelter use. This technology has not been commercialized for other work. Later, research on concrete mesh was conducted and an incredible product was introduced to the construction field. The concrete fabric concept was first proposed by Brewen and Crawford in 2005. Later research was conducted and the British Engineering Company found the revolutionary material called concrete fabric or concrete canvas. It is a product of the new era in the field of construction. The material property of concrete is its strength and physical properties: The typical strength is explained below: Early high strength is required for concrete fabric. The concrete fabric compressive strength test is based on ASTM C473 Part 07. A compressive strength of 38 MPa was obtained on day 7. The 10 day compressive strength was recorded at 40 MPa and then the 10 day compressive Young’s modulus was 500 MPa. It is the material’s ability to withstand bending forces. The minimum 7-day flexural stress is 3.3 MPa and the flexural modulus is 180 MPa. The resistance that the body exerts when subjected to abrasive action is abrasion resistance. According to ASTM C1353 Part 8, the standard method for calculating the abrasion resistance of materials, concrete fabric lost 60% less weight than marble over 2000 repeated cycles. Concrete mesh is usually available in 3 thicknesses, 5mm, 8mm and 13mm thick. Theoretically there is no limit to the thickness of concrete mesh. A typical thickness can be between 2 and 15 mm. The factors that limit the thickness of the concrete fabric is its ability to penetrate liquid or water into the lower and inner base of the material for hydration. The time required for the concrete fabric from the end of mixing to the initial setting of the concrete fabric is known as the setting time. For concrete fabric, the initial setting time should be greater than or equal to 120 minutes and the final setting time should be greater than or equal to 240 minutes. Concrete fabric can reach 70 to 80% of its strength in 24 hours of hydration. Before hydration of the concrete fabric, the density is 1500 kg/m, and after hydration, the dry density increases by 30-35% in the range of 1952-2050 kg/m3. Placing, hydrating and achieving the strength of the concrete fabric will be in the following steps explained. The substrate on which the concrete mesh will be placed must be properly prepared to allow the concrete mesh to take the shape of its support. Therefore, any type of stones, uneven shape regions or vegetation must be properly cared for. Before applying the concrete mesh, prepare a compact and smooth surface. Now the concrete fabric is placed on the prepared subsurface. One cloth is placed over the other to create a strong bond. The PVC-coated layer is placed at the bottom so that the water supplied for hydration of the concrete fabric does not seep through it and water is lost. The fiber layer is laid on top or up. After laying the concrete mesh, the excess concrete mesh that exceeds the required installation area is cut off. This cutting must be done with the usual cutting tools. Now the concrete fabric must be anchored or fixed to the carrier material so that it does not shift. Nails or anchors or screws are used for soil. Adhesives are also used for hard surfaces. Concrete mesh hydration can be done in two ways: In this method, the concrete mesh is immersed in water for at least 90 seconds and placed. The concrete mesh is placed and the water is sprayed on it. Care must be taken not to use a direct jet of pressurized water as this will wash away the cementitious material from the fibre. Saline or non-saline water can be used to hydrate concrete fabric. The water to cement ratio is 1:2 by weight. The required amount of water is supplied to concrete clothing only the first time, but some water is lost due to the warm temperature or when placed on steep or vertical surfaces. To refill, spray after an hour or two. Concrete mesh has been used in many areas of civil engineering, some of the most common uses are: the slopes of dams, roads and embankments are usually covered with truffles to protect them from soil erosion, reducing shear strength caused by many factors but the maintenance costs of truffles are higher. Concrete mesh is used on slopes for slope stabilization, erosion control for permanent and temporary slope protection. The inner surface of the mine should be protected from hacking and breakage. Shotcrete is usually used in these places. The use of concrete mesh in mines can reduce costs by 20% compared to shotcrete. One of the uses of concrete mesh is in the defense sector as it can be used as a dust suspension. In places like the helipad, the loose soil particles are swept into the air due to the turbulent airflow created by the helicopter rotor. This could adversely affect people, animals and machines. This concrete sheet can be used around a helipad controlling the washing up of loose soil. Ditches are used for water channels or sewage can be lined with concrete sheeting that protects water seeping from ditches. Installation is quick and less expensive compared to the traditional trench method. Overland and subsea pipelines are typically subject to corrosion or direct impact. To overcome these, concrete mesh can be used as a coating for pipes, providing protection from corrosion and impact. It offers a superior, robust shield. They are easy to carry, transport and deploy without special equipment. Concrete mesh can be hydrated either by spraying or by complete immersion in water. Once hydrated, it remains workable for four hours and cures to 80% within 24 hours. This time can be shortened by adding accelerators to the dry mix at the time of manufacture. Dry concrete mesh can be cut or trimmed using simple hand tools. It can be easily repaired or upgraded with existing cement products. This can easily be nailed or anchored before setting. The fiber reinforcement prevents cracks, absorbs energy from impacts and provides a stable failure mode. The PVC backing on one surface ensures this concrete cloth is totally waterproof. Hydration is achieved by filling the sack with water. Hydration is aided by the fibrous matrix which helps water penetrate the cement. The concrete mesh sets into the shape of the underlying structure it is placed on and 24 hours later the structure is ready for use. The concrete mesh is currently supplied in 1.2m wide rolls but can be manufactured in roll widths up to 5m. The cloth can be made in various thicknesses from 5-20mm. The concrete cloth is chemically resistant and does not decompose under UV radiation. The concrete cloth is a ceramic-based material and will not burn. The concrete cloth is available in different sizes and different thickness according to the usage. They come in bulk rolls or batch rolls. The market available specifications for concrete mesh are:

What is the best way to line a pond?

Bentonite clay is an alternative way to line earthen ponds, and it’s completely effective if installed correctly. The powdered material swells to more than 10 times its size when wet, sealing off tiny pore spaces to prevent water from percolating through the soil.

Pond construction and repair

Fill the pond with water. That’s all it takes for the bentonite to do its job of swelling and sealing the pond.

Tip

You can add plants to the bottom or sides of the soil pond, but don’t dig more than 3 or 4 inches when planting to avoid piercing the clay sheet.

Spread bentonite when the weather is calm – the fine powder blows away when there is more than a light breeze.

Time the project to coincide with dry weather. Do not wet the bentonite until it is buried under the pond soil.

How do you seal a pond without a liner?

The third alternative is to use a soil additive, such as bentonite, to create an impermeable layer. Bentonite is a clay colloid that expands to 10 times or more its volume when wet. This expansion seals pores in the soil.

Pond construction and repair

Q

We are considering building a large pond – about half an acre in size. We want a natural pond that is heavily planted with water lilies, lotus and the like. While we plan to stock the pond with just a few koi, we are genuinely interested in attracting native wildlife, particularly the waterfowl that roam our area.

We’re not sure if there are pond liners that big, but we would prefer a natural pond bottom. In previous columns you talked about natural (garden) ponds, but always talked about using liners to hold the water. How can we build a natural pond with earth materials?

A

A 3 acre pond would equate to a circular pond about 170 feet in diameter or, in a more natural form, about 220 feet long and 100 feet wide. There are several ways to build a new pond without a liner or concrete shell. The easiest way is to dig the pond into the local water table and use the ground water. However, for this to work well, you need to live in an area with a fairly stable flood level.

If the groundwater is only a few feet from the bottom surface, the slope from the edge into the pond can be shallow. But when the groundwater is 10 feet below the surface, the pond looks more like a quarry, with dangerously steep sides.

Even if the groundwater is close to the surface, this approach can still be inappropriate. The groundwater levels fluctuate greatly over the course of the year. These fluctuations can range from several feet to several tens of feet, with high water levels in the spring, fall, and winter, but very low in the summer. The result is that the dug pond would dry up for several weeks (or months) of the year. Fish would not enjoy that.

There are natural wetland features that provide just this type of habitat: prairie pots and spring pools. Throughout the Midwest, these ephemeral ponds provide invaluable habitat for migratory waterfowl and native wildlife. These ecologically important wetlands are disappearing fast, so a project that would create an artificial pothole on the prairie would be of great service. Keep in mind, however, that these temporary ponds do not support fish, so your plans for koi would be as keen as floating-leaf aquatic plants. Instead, your planting plan would need to be built around local emerging vegetation.

If you want a permanent pond there are actually three basic options: 1) excavation in local impervious soil – with compaction, 2) clay liners, or 3) bentonite or chemical additives. Soil conditions vary greatly across the country. Partly the soil has a heavy clay content. Clay should make up at least 10 percent of the soil mix—much higher percentages are desirable. I strongly recommend getting a professional soil analysis done.

If the soil proves satisfactory, the next step is to remove all vegetation from the area and dig the pond. I recommend keeping the pond depth to less than 10 feet to minimize the chance of seepage. More than 10 feet of static pressure can force water through the pond floor and walls. When planning the excavation, add about 30 inches to the depth to even out the potting soil added later. This material also protects the pond from cracks that can occur due to freezing and thawing.

The soil that will become the bottom and walls of the pond should be dug up at least 30 cm and all rocks, stones, roots, etc. should be removed. Then this soil is compacted to a depth of about 8 inches.

The impermeability of the compacted soil is destroyed when you plant it. Aquatic plant roots, which can reach 2 feet into the ground, create channels for water to exit. Therefore, after the pond design is complete, you should add at least 30 inches of loam and clay potting soil.

If your local soils don’t have a good clay base, you can follow the ancient Chinese pond building technique and add a layer of clay. A 30 cm thick layer of clay (rough soil with at least 20 percent clay) is spread over the pond floor and the pond walls. Remember that the excavation depth should be the sum of the desired pond depth plus 12 inches for the clay plus 30 inches for the potting soil.

The soil should be prepared for compaction as above and the clay should be applied in 6 inch layers, compacting the first before applying the second. Finally add the 30 inch layer of planting soil.

The third alternative is to use a soil additive such as bentonite to create an impermeable layer. Bentonite is a clay colloid that expands to 10 times or more its volume when wet. This expansion seals pores in the soil. Whether your floors can be sealed in this way depends on a number of properties that can only be determined by a professional floor analysis.

In suitable soils, 10 to 30 pounds of bentonite are applied per square foot of surface. The additive is mixed with the soil (after it has been prepared by removing all debris, stones, etc.) and then compacted. Adding the potting soil is the final step in filling the pond.

Pond liners are available for ponds of the desired size. For example, Permalon (Reef Industries, Houston, TX) can be placed and sealed to cover your half-acre area. A 6-inch gravel base and then potting soil can be placed on top. The company claims heavy equipment can be used on their liners to move gravel and soil without damage.

Posted by: Chewy Editorial

Featured image: via Lisa Ewing/Shutterstock

Can I use mortar for a pond?

You can add mortar over a pond liner to add strength and you can add rocks and decorative elements to it. Adding the mortar is a simple process, but it is important to keep the mortar wet during the curing process to prevent cracking.

Pond construction and repair

Mix the mortar in a ration of three parts sand and one part artificial cement. Add 1 ½ parts concrete rebar to give stability to the mix. Mix the ingredients in a large container. Add enough water to form a muddy paste.

Spread the mortar over the liner with a flat trowel. Spread the cement to a thickness of about 1 inch.

Press large rocks into the mortar to create borders and shelves for plants or fish. Squeeze the stones around the edges of the mortar to hold them in place. Spread a thin layer of grout between the bricks to create an extra bond and create a watertight seal between the bricks.

Mix the mortar in a ration of three parts sand and one part artificial cement.

Press large rocks into the mortar to create borders and shelves for plants or fish.

Pour the surface of the mortar every hour. The cement must remain wet throughout the curing process or it will crack.

Seal the mortar with a cement sealer. Apply the sealant with a brush. Let the seal dry for 24 hours.

Fill the pond with water once the concrete sealer has dried. This is the best way to maintain the strength of the cement in the pond.

Is concrete safe for koi pond?

Concrete works well for koi ponds because you can make the pond any shape you want. This durable material will last for decades — an important factor considering most koi live for 25 to 35 years. Concrete also works well for installing large ponds that can accommodate these large fish.

Pond construction and repair

Test the pH of the water with a pH test kit one week after filling the pond for the fourth time. The best pH for koi fish is around 7.5, but they can live in water with a pH between 6.8 and 8.2. If the pH is still above 8.2, drain the pond, refill and wait another week and retest the pH. If the initial pH is in a good range, instead of draining the pond, cover and wait another week to do a second pH test. Koi do not tolerate pH fluctuations well, so you want a consistent reading for two weeks.

What is Concrete Cloth?

What is Concrete Cloth?
What is Concrete Cloth?


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Concrete Cloth™ Roll

Aquascape Concrete Cloth™ is an innovative material designed to effectively protect liners in ponds and other water features by combining the flexibility of fabric with the durability of concrete. Concrete mesh is a flexible fabric impregnated with concrete that hardens when hydrated to form a durable concrete layer that protects the liner from burrowing animals, human traffic, or damage from the setting of large rocks or boulders. To avoid frustrating liner repairs, use concrete cloth on or under liners to prevent burrowing animals from chewing or scratching the liner. If large rocks are placed on the liner, the material can be used as a protective barrier as these larger rocks are often difficult to move in the event of a leak after installation. Water features in public or high traffic locations can also benefit from concrete mesh by protecting the liner from vandalism and children or animals walking over the feature. Concrete mesh is extremely easy to install. Simply place the mat where you want it and soak the top of the material with a garden hose or other source. The upper surface fabric allows water to penetrate during hydration and the lower surface consists of a PVC membrane that acts as an impermeable barrier. The material can be cut with commercially available cutting tools, e.g. B. a utility knife, easily adapt to any installation. Each 3,375ft wide by 30ft long roll weighs 141lbs and is designed to be lifted by two people, making installation quick and easy without machines.

Concrete Canvas LTD: Thinking Outside The Box With Inflatable Concrete

An inflatable concrete building sounds like something out of an animated series, but a remarkable new building material known as Concrete Canvas Ltd is making it a reality. This flexible, cement-filled fabric can be carried in a collapsed bag for easy shipping, then inflated and filled with water to create lasting protection wherever it’s needed. The building hardens into concrete in less than 24 hours and is then fully operational.

Concrete Canvas Ltd’s robust qualities and the level of security it offers not only for people but also for medical and military equipment make it an outstanding potential in providing emergency shelter for disaster relief. It’s relatively easy to set up by just two people, and while it might not be the prettiest shelter, it’s definitely a practical solution. But the widespread distribution of Concrete Canvas Ltd shelters by aid organizations is not without its challenges, with cost and durability being two of the most important. Here we take a look at exactly what Concrete Canvas Ltd shelters are, their unique benefits and what stands in the way of their use in disaster relief.

What is Concrete Canvas Ltd accommodation?

The Concrete Canvas Ltd Shelter (CCS) is a rapidly deployable hardened shelter that can be ‘built’ to provide shelter from the natural environment. The shelters come in a collapsible form that is basically rolled out, inflated with a fan and sprayed with water. The Concrete Canvas Ltd is bonded to the outer surface of a gypsum inner layer and when inflated forms a tunnel-like shape known as a Nissen hut. Concrete Canvas Ltd Shelters will harden in approximately 12-24 hours (depending on size) before being earth covered or buried to provide additional insulation and protection from the elements.

The Concrete Canvas material itself is lightweight and durable enough to withstand harsh environmental conditions. It offers increased security compared to other disaster shelter solutions and has the potential to be used for both medical and military purposes in disaster-stricken regions.

What are the benefits of the CCS?

While civil protection tents often have a short lifespan, wearing out within a few months in some regions, the CCS has a lifespan of more than 10 years. In disaster relief situations, where temporary shelters are often used for much longer than originally hoped by the community, Concrete Canvas Ltd shelters can provide a more cost-effective and practical long-term solution.

Concrete Canvas Ltd’s shelters are also quick to set up, taking just two people less than an hour to erect and be up and running within 24 hours. In areas where disaster strikes, having emergency shelters that can be “built” so quickly is a great advantage. The base of the structure can also be covered with sand or earth fill, which provides additional thermal insulation properties.

The hard shell and lockable doors also provide a level of security that simply isn’t possible with the regular soft tents used for disaster relief shelters, making them ideal for storing gear, protecting materials and protecting people.

How sustainable is the design?

While concrete isn’t the most environmentally friendly building material (as it requires a significant amount of energy to produce and carbon dioxide is released when it sets), Concrete Canvas’s downside is that it requires far less mass than alternative methods of similarly robust construction. Overall, therefore, less carbon dioxide is emitted and less is consumed during material transport. It also has a fairly low alkaline capacity, so it’s a good option for constructions near water sources as it reduces damage to the ecosystem.

Who is behind this?

UK-based Concrete Canvas Ltd is the innovator behind this revolutionary structure, the material of which is known in the US as Concrete Cloth. The founders, Peter Brewin and Will Crawford, met while studying industrial engineering at Imperial College London and entered a British Cement Association design competition. The task was to produce a material that “can be dried in a thin layer, wetted in an uncontrolled manner, and then molded into a reliably solid form without cracking.”

The material they have developed has been used for a range of civil works, including lining water channels and stabilizing embankments, as well as protecting sandbags by the British military in Afghanistan.

How are Concrete Canvas Ltd shelters used?

Currently most of the shelters sold by Concrete Canvas Ltd are used for military operations as their quick deployment and safety features make them ideal for remote areas. The US, Swedish, Dutch and UAE militaries have all tested the shelters, with the Swedes actually testing them against mortars! However, the material itself has also been used in other unique ways, such as in a high-altitude gold mine in Chile that uses it to intercept glacial meltwater. The material’s light weight made it much easier to work with in the low-oxygen ambient conditions, with workers only being allowed to work about five hours a day.

While there is potential for their use in the NGO sector as shelters for disaster relief (and the humanitarian sector was Brewin and Crawford’s initial focus), the semi-permanent nature of CCS is a turnoff for some organizations. There is always hope that disaster relief or refugee camps are only a temporary necessity (although many end up being long-lasting) and shelters that can be completely dismantled and repurposed are preferable. However, interest in their use as shelters in hurricane-prone regions has increased and they are currently being tested in the UK to see what wind speeds they can withstand.

How much do they cost?

Right now, the Concrete Canvas Ltd is priced at around $23-$60 per square foot, which means an entire shelter costs between $23,000-$32,000. Price is part of the problem with deploying CCS for civil protection shelters, when in most cases large volumes need to be imported in a short period of time and government or private funding would be required for NGOs to cover the costs.

Brewin explains that there are still some reservations about using this innovative material as it is a completely new way of using concrete. He says, “It can be difficult to convince engineers to use it the first time, but once they try it, we usually get a lot of repeat orders.”

Despite the challenges and concerns of implementing concrete canvas shelters as a housing solution for disaster relief workers around the world, the potential of this material is still in its infancy and the possibilities for the future are exciting.

Pond construction and repair

Check the site for the presence of buried utilities. If necessary, consult a specialist water center for advice on power supply and wiring to power pond pumps.

The easiest way to mark a suggested location is to run a rope or hose to form the outline. Cut around the mark with a spade. Avoid extreme shapes and precise geometric shapes unless the setting is formal.

Position marker pegs evenly spaced around the proposed pond. Set the first peg at the ideal height for the edge of the pond. Align the remaining pins with a spirit level.

Dig a hole about 30 cm (1 ft), tilt the sides out 20 degrees, and level the bottom. Mark a plant shelf about 30cm wide around the edge, then dig out the center section to the desired depth.

If you are adding curbs or bricks to the finished pond, remove enough soil within a 30 cm (1 ft) width around the pond to allow the stones to be firmly embedded.

Flexible liners

To calculate the required foil size, measure the maximum length and width of the marked area. Add twice the depth to each measurement, then allow a minimum of 15 cm (6 in) overlap all the way around to allow the liner to be held firmly through pavement or tucked under turf.

Commercially available bottom felts should be used under the liners. A fiberglass roll like that used for attic insulation can also be used. On particularly stony soils, a 2.5 cm thick layer of damp sand can be applied first

Pull the foil over the hole and use stones to hold it in place. Let water from a hose gradually push the liner into the hole, smoothly and with a minimum of wrinkles or creases. To prevent stretching, occasionally lift the bricks to allow the liner to move under the weight of the water and conform to the contours of the pond. Fold in evenly. Cut off excess backing leaving a 15 cm (6 inch) wide flap all around.

Vertical pool walls can be constructed of brick or cinder block, with butyl then being used as the overall covering for the walls and earthen pool floor. To construct the walls, lay 15 cm (6 in.) deep, smooth-surfaced concrete foundations in the required shape. Then lay bricks or blocks in the usual way until the required height is reached.

Pools can be entered with reasonable care and finished with stones or pebbles to create a beach or similar feature. They also take wind and concrete blocks wrapped in polyethylene or laying them on scraps of butyl to hold plant containers at a higher level, rather than building concrete ledges in the pool.

Preformed rigid liners

Level the site and place the mold on bricks the right way up.

Mark the contours with long sticks inserted vertically into the ground and threaded around their base.

To dig a hole that fits the shape, first remove soil to the level of the edge shelf.

Place the pond liner in the prepared hole and press firmly onto the soil to leave a clear imprint of the subsoil.

Lift out the mold, then dig out the central, deeper area, leaving about 5 cm (2 in) of additional depth for padding material.

Remove any rocks, roots, or debris from the hole. Tamp down the soil and line the excavation with a pond pad or a 5 cm layer of damp sand.

Insert the mold and use a spirit level to check that it is level all the way around. Make sure the pond is firmly seated on the bedding layer. Insert batons to hold it in place. Add about 10 cm (4 inches) of water. Back up with sand on the sides to the same depth as the water to ensure there are no gaps and the pond remains perfectly level.

Continue this process by adding water, topping up and checking the level. Make sure the sand is rammed well under the shelf.

Concrete ponds

The most common way to build a concrete pond is to use concrete wall blocks for the sides. These are skimmed with cement mixed with sharp sand and a fibrous reinforcing material.

Alternatively, a pond can be constructed using formwork and poured concrete, but enclosed ponds are prone to cracking.

Excavate the pool area, allowing 15 cm (6 in) on the sides and 15 cm (6 in) on the bottom all around to accommodate the thickness of the concrete.

Larger pools may need reinforcement of the concrete and expert help is advisable. Plan the construction so that the actual laying of the concrete floor and pouring the concrete into the wall formwork can be done in one day so that the finished pool is watertight.

Cover all concrete surfaces against frost for four days in winter. Water the concrete and formwork in summer. Setting of concrete is a chemical reaction and the slower the concrete sets, the harder it becomes and the more resistant it is to cracking.

The supports can be removed two days after concreting, the formwork four days later.

Soften and round off the sharp edges of the concrete with a concrete trowel.

Whatever construction is used, sweep the pool to remove all concrete and cement dust particles and coat the interior surfaces with a proprietary neutralizing and waterproof sealant to prevent scale from leaching into the water.

pond border

Informal ponds may be bordered with lawn, stone, or pebbles, but paving may be better suited to the clean lines of a formal pond. Make sure the slabs are securely grouted to solid foundations and overhang the pond by 5 cm (2 in).

references

RHS Encyclopedia of Gardening Chapter 10 Water Gardening, Christopher Brickell (ed.), Dorling Kindersley, ISBN 9781409383949 (2012)

Visit the RHS Shop for more books on water gardening and swimming ponds.

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