Corn Snake Water Bowl Size? Top 36 Best Answers

Corn snakes are a great option for a first-time snake owner. However, being new to this amazing hobby leads to some unavoidable questions. One of the most common things beginners want to know is if their corn snake will get solitary and should they keep more than one in the same enclosure?

Corn snakes don’t get lonely because they evolved to be solitary. Keeping two or more corn snakes together is likely to cause stress. The closeness between two corn snakes can even lead to one eating the other. Corn snakes are antisocial: they want to be alone.

If you’re still not sure, let’s dive into why corn snakes never get lonely, why you might see pet stores housing more than one snake together, and, if need be, what the best options are, more the same tank as keeping a corn snake.

Can corn snakes feel lonely?

Let me put on my scientist hat for a moment and explain exactly why you shouldn’t worry about your corn snake being lonely.

The snake brain and loneliness

One of the easiest mistakes a pet owner can make is humanizing an animal. This simply means that we tend to think that animals think and feel about the world the same way we do.

You don’t! And no, snakes don’t want to cuddle with their owners either.

More specifically, the further away we are on the evolutionary line, the more likely it is that our minds work differently. A dog may have similar feelings to a human, but a bug’s experience of the world is likely to be quite different.

We humans have highly developed emotional areas known as the amygdala, insular cortex, and periaqueductal gray. Whoa! That’s one sip.

These make us feel complex emotions like love and friendship. They drive us to want to be together. Without these, the Snake has simpler emotions, and that explains why they don’t feel lonely.

Essentially, a snake cannot walk because it has no legs. It cannot feel a complex emotion like loneliness because it does not have the parts of the brain needed to create that experience.

Snakes and Simple Emotions

One theory holds that the snake brain evolved to primarily experience two emotions:

fear of aggression

Of course, they can also be in pain. But take a look at these two emotions: aggression and fear. This explains why snakes don’t respond well to other snakes. When they’re scared, they want to run away, and when they feel aggression, it’s going to end badly!

The bottom line here is that the human brain is primed to feel advanced emotions like social affection, but the snake is so effective as a predator because it only processes a small number of “pure” or simple emotions.

Snakes don’t feel loneliness because that’s just one emotion a social animal can feel.

However, it is possible that some species of snakes have specific adaptations to be social, as is the case with garter snakes. Corn snakes do not appear to have this behavior.

What happens when two corn snakes are kept together?

Okay, so we’ve found that your corn snake is unlikely to become lonely. But does that mean that keeping two snakes together is a bad idea?

Here are some of the negative results you can expect from keeping two corn snakes together:

cannibalism

As said, corn snakes can eat each other. This is more likely when one is much larger than the other.

illness

Keeping two snakes together means that if one gets sick with a contagious disease such as infectious stomatitis (mouth rot), respiratory infections, and inclusion body diseases, the other will get the same disease. It’s tragic when a disease wipes out multiple pets at once.

parasites

Snakes can be plagued by internal parasites such as coccidia and worms. They may also have ticks or mites on their skin. These can easily be transferred to another snake. Soon you’ll have to treat two snakes instead of just one!

emotional feedback

Remember those simple feelings of aggression and fear we talked about? If one snake shows fear or aggressive behavior, it can provoke a reaction from the other snake.

Aggression leads to injury or death from hitting, while fear leads to stress, which can be physically debilitating and cause eating problems.

pairing

Don’t you want to have several young snakes on your hands? Then don’t keep two snakes of the same species together as male and female. Worse, mating before full sexual maturity can be deadly.

The only real positive outcome for a snake owner of keeping two corn snakes in the same tank is that it saves space. You have to ask yourself, are the dangers worth the risk?

Can you ever keep two corn snakes together?

I am not going to say that it is impossible to house two corn snakes together without something bad happening. There are snake owners who can do it.

You may also see pet shops doing this (but this is only temporary and sometimes pet shop owners don’t have the knowledge about snake keeping that they should!).

What I’m saying is that keeping two corn snakes together is not a good idea.

Do you still want to do it? ok ok You can’t completely avoid the risks, but you can reduce the chances of something bad happening.

4 rules for keeping corn snakes together

Always remember the following when housing two corn snakes in the same tank:

Only house two snakes of the same sex, preferably females. Males can coexist, but they can become competitive during the breeding season (around March). They must be mature adults. Create twice as many hideouts so each snake can have solitude. Feed each snake separately to ensure each snake eats enough.

Vivarium setup for two corn snakes

The best arrangement for two corn snakes is what is known as a “stack”. This is a vivarium with two or more vertical compartments for your snakes to enjoy time from each other.

This saves space, but it also reduces the risk of your snakes feeling trapped with each other (although they still won’t be as happy as they would be on their own!).

Some stacks function as individual tanks that can be kept separate.

If you are sticking with a large tank you will need to leave enough room in the tank for each snake to have its own space and be able to stretch out fully.

Corn snakes are not very active, so they don’t usually need a huge enclosure. However, if you add them together, the size must double.

Here is a table with some recommended minimum sizes.

Tank Height Tank Length Tank Width Tank Capacity 1 Corn Snake 12″ (30.48 cm) 30″ (76.2 cm) 12″ (30.48 cm) 20 Gallons 2 Corn Snakes 24″ (60.96 cm) 60″ (152.4 cm) 24″ (60.96 cm) 40 gallon 3 corn snakes 36″ (91.44 cm) 90″ (228.6) 36″ (91.44 cm) 60 gallon Minimum corn snake tank size

Conclusion

I hope this answers your questions about whether or not corn snakes get lonely. Your snake is perfectly happy as long as you take care of them. If you have experience housing more than one corn snake or have any questions I’d love to read them in the comments section below.

get a corn snake. I looked up pictures and information about the snake and wanted to learn how to take care of it because I am planning to get one. If my parents think I’m responsible enough, they’ll probably let me have one. That helped a lot. Thank you for the information.”

…”

“I’m an 11-year-old girl who loves snakes, so I took a test online about which snake to get and it told me to do it

Many rainforest species require high humidity to remain stress free. If the overall humidity in a captive habitat is too low, these species may retreat to the aquatic bowl. Notable species exhibiting this behavior are rainbow boas (Epicrates spp.) and viper boas (Candoia asper). To counteract this, regularly spray the housing with water at room temperature. Reducing ventilation is another option for increasing the relative humidity of a habitat, but you must do this judiciously to ensure adequate air exchange. If you reduce ventilation, condensation may form on the glass or walls of the cage. While small patches of condensation are not a problem, too much condensation encourages the growth of fungi and bacteria. If large spots of condensation appear, ventilation must be increased.

Corn snakes are beautiful snakes with a gentle nature. Over the years, captive breeding of this species has produced an amazing variety of color morphs that are now available to novice growers. They were given the name “corn snakes” because they were commonly found in barns used to store corn. They enjoy the shelter that barns provide and the mice and rats that are attracted to the corn. Common Name: Corn Snake or Red Rat Snake

Do you think you know snakes? Take our snake quiz

When you consider how long snakes can be, finding the right snake for a 20 gallon tank has to be a calculated decision to ensure you are providing your pet with top quality care. All 8 snakes on our list are non-venomous.

A snake will almost always be kept in a 20 gallon tank to accommodate a longer snake. Almost all snakes have significant lifespans, so each snake is a long-term commitment. Only snakes up to four feet in length should be kept in a 20-gallon tank.

Most snakes use a substrate of shavings, and you must never use aromatic shavings as they cause breathing problems. All snakes also require a hot side and a cool side for their tank, which can vary by a few degrees depending on the species and the individual.

10,397 people failed this quiz. Do you think you can? Take our brand new A-Z Animals Snakes Quiz

So what are eight snakes that will comfortably fit in a 20-gallon tank for their entire lives? Now let’s go through some details of these snakes.

1. Rough Green Snakes

Rough green snakes grow to about two feet in length. iStock.com/Shoemcfly

Rough green snakes are characterized by their striking green color to blend in with their natural surroundings. They prefer forests, wetlands and highlands. Their diet consists mainly of insects. They are usually between 1.5 and 2 feet long but can grow up to 3 feet. Wild-caught specimens can be tamed and made good pets. A captive rough green snake has a lifespan of about 15 years.

2. Garter Snakes

Garter snakes make great pets when you’re not catching a wild snake. iStock.com/Shoemcfly

Garter snakes are typically 2-3 feet long, although the longest garter snake on record was 4.4 feet. Their wild habitats are forests, wetlands, fields, and forests. They live up to 5 years in the wild and up to 10 years in captivity.

While garter snakes are widespread and make great pets, capturing a wild snake is not advisable. It will not behave like a pet snake, and it will do anything to protect itself, including biting and emitting an unpleasant odor.

For an unknown reason, captive garter snakes respond to their special diet by developing a smaller head than their wild counterparts. During release campaigns, the survival rate of captive specimens is lower than desired, presumably because the snakes’ head size does not allow them adequate access to the prey they need.

3. Kenyan sand boas

Kenyan sand boas are great for a 20 gallon tank because they are small. reptiles4all/shutterstock.com

Native to arid regions of Africa, the Kenyan sand boas only grow to a maximum of about 2 feet in length. They’re easy to care for and known to be docile, so they’re great snakes for beginners.

While using sand is not recommended for most other snakes, the Kenyan sand boa requires a sand substrate. Garbage and other debris must be shoveled out of the sand once a day. All sand in the enclosure should be replaced at least every three months.

4. California Kingsnakes

While most kingsnakes are too small for a 20-gallon tank, California kingsnakes are just the right size. Creeping Things/Shutterstock.com

While most species of kingsnakes are too large for a 20-gallon enclosure, California kingsnakes are the right size. Because they are so popular, their personalities were bred to create a more docile animal, and finding a California kingsnake breeder is easy. These snakes are great at escaping. Special care must be taken to ensure that the lid is securely fastened to the enclosure and that any holes or other means of exiting the terrarium have been eliminated.

5. Rose boas

Rosy boas are unusually slow and docile. Nathan A. Shepard/Shutterstock.com

Rosy boas stay small enough to fit in a 20 gallon tank. They are unusually slow, only reaching speeds of up to 1 km/h in the wild. These snakes are great for beginners as they are docile and easy to handle. Since they are gagging, they don’t bite.

Rosy boas are considered one of the safest snakes to own, as well as one of the cutest because of their pink coloring and stripes. These snakes are long-lived, surviving up to 40 years in captivity. They’re a great choice, but they’re a lifetime commitment.

6. Western Hognose Snakes

Western hognose snakes hang around on the ground because they are burrowers. iStock.com/Iuliia Morozova

These snakes have a pig’s snout caused by a protruding scale they use to burrow into their substrate. They rarely bite and prefer to play dead rather than attack, making them easy to handle. They are suitable snakes for beginners.

Western Honose Snakes like to hang out on the ground, so the more floor space you can give them, the better. Their substrate needs to be deep and suitable for digging, as they spend most of the day digging around the bottom of their tanks.

There are many Morphs in a range of colors and patterns.

7. Red milk snakes

Red milk snakes quickly become accustomed to handling. iStock.com/Shoemcfly

Red milk snakes live up to 22 years in captivity and reach 2.5 feet in length. They do not bite as they are constrictors, crushing their prey between their coils to kill them. These snakes are adaptable and can be accustomed to handling even if caught wild. They make great beginner snakes.

8. Male Corn Snakes

Only male corn snakes can be kept in a 20 gallon enclosure. Nathan A. Shepard/Shutterstock.com

Male corn snakes are a popular choice among first-time snake owners because they are docile and inquisitive. They enjoy exploring their enclosure, making them one of the more entertaining snakes as opposed to a more sedentary choice.

You need to make sure you get one male corn snake for your 20 gallon tank as females will grow too large. However, the smaller males are fit for a 20 gallon housing.

Too much space can be detrimental to a corn snake, so while this snake is one of the largest on this list, it is still suitable for a smaller enclosure. Females can grow up to 6 feet in length while males typically grow to around 4 feet.

What size vivarium does a corn snake need? | Decorated young corn snake viv | Need a heat lamp for a corn snake? | Do corn snakes need a thermostat? | What is the best viv temperature for a corn snake? | Do corn snakes need UVB? | Bedding and substrate for snakes | Humidity for a Corn Snake | Decorate in your vivarium for corn snakes | water and corn snakes

ExoticDirect Pet Insurance believes strongly in responsible pet ownership and works with expert writers to bring you useful pet care information.

Find out more about our corn snake insurance.

My experience with corn snakes

I am now holding a corn snake still after holding and rescuing a few from her. I’ve had her for a few weeks and she’s three now. As such, I will base all information below on current setup and experience.

What size vivarium does a corn snake need?

A baby corn snake can be kept in a large plastic Exo-Terra grow box measuring approximately 415mm x 265mm x 148mm.

At around six to nine months, you can move your snake into a vivarium that measures about 4ft x 2ft x 2ft.

I would only do this if I felt the snake was eating well and doing what a snake should be doing.

When you consider that your snake will grow to between 4ft and 6ft on average, the only real conclusion is the larger the vivarium.

Many still disagree with me here, saying that a young snake gets stressed in such a large environment. And I agree. But it also depends a lot on how you arrange this enclosure for the benefit of its occupant.

Provide hiding places, substrate, climbing areas, UVB and also important for me in a large enclosure for heat from above.

So my corn has been in her forever home for a few years now. I chose the Vivexotic XL deep. I’m not sure if this exact spec is still available from Vivexotic but I can guarantee you they will have similar or exactly the same renaming.

These setups are wood, with sliding glass front doors. With wood you have a much more stable environment inside than if you opt for glass, for example. It is notoriously difficult to maintain a good temperature gradient in glass assemblies.

Also written by Pete Hawkins Bearded Dragons and Shedding

The vivarium setup for my young corn snake

When she was still in her Exo Terra plastic box I used the following setup as a young corn snake:

I used a Lucky Reptile mat on the bottom of the box for her hot basking area.

This was controlled via a Microclimate Evo Lite thermostat. But for a heating mat, any mat mat will do. But it is vital (more on that later).

She had two hiding spots in this setup, one above the basking area, the other on the opposite side.

And I also used enough substrate for it to burrow itself when needed. The substrate choice for me when I’m this young will always be Lignocel.

I find this lightweight, dust free and easy to clean. Still, it allows the snake to have some privacy if needed. It’s also important that you provide an appropriately sized water bowl for your snake to sit in if necessary. They usually only do this during the summer months when the room temperature is hot. As a result, the array is drier than normal, which aids in its cooling. They will, too, if they are to be shed (more on that later).

As I said, at around six to nine months, as long as you feel like the snake is doing well, I would try to place the snake in a large forever home.

Also written by Pete Hawkins Bearded Dragons and Brumation

Your corn snake’s vivarium should measure about 4 feet x 2 feet x 2 feet

Need a heat lamp for a corn snake?

Yes you do. I personally use the new Arcadia Deep Heat Projector (DHP) for all my Snake setups.

With a matching lamp guard as always, these have now replaced my “White Python” ceramic bulbs that I used to use.

I was fortunate enough to help test this product and the results were enough for me to justify the change after its full retail release.

I found that the snakes really loved the intense infrared A and B rays that the bulb produces. And since it doesn’t produce light like a pottery, the change in that regard wasn’t a problem for the snake.

You can of course use a ceramic bulb with appropriate protection if you wish and as always run your chosen heat source through a thermostat. This is an important piece of safety equipment, it can actually save lives.

Do corn snakes need a thermostat?

Yes, they do. The thermostat sensor should ideally be mounted on a wall close to the sun zone. This gives you maximum control over the sun zone without the snake laying over the probe and messing up the reading.

This could erroneously affect the output of the thermostat and in turn affect the temperature within the facility.

For any non-light emitting heat source such as the DHP or a ceramic bulb, a pulse or dimming thermostat is best. For me the ‘Microclimate Evo lite’ is ideal because it has these two functions.

What is the best vivarium temperature for a corn snake?

You want the temperature in the warming zone to be around 29°C to 32°C. A little below or above is not really a problem if the area is large enough.

Measure under the sun source with a digital thermometer probe for the most accurate reading.

The sun temperature of your corn snake should be between 29 and 32 °C

Do corn snakes need UVB?

Yes I have a feeling they do and I use UVB on all my snakes. Personally, it’s just something I’ve always done. There used to be no fancy LEDs to light up a setup so a UVB tube was the only real option.

Of course, science and research has progressed into keeping such species, and although they have survived in captivity without UVB in millions of facilities around the world, we now absolutely know that when provided, they will be used by the snake.

UV index studies have shown (Ferguson zones) that in the wild they willingly expose themselves to a UVI of around 0.6 to 1.4. This is classified as a twilight or shadow dweller. Where they are the latter. This can be easily achieved via the tube and methods mentioned below.

What I use – my choice for UVB is the Arcadia 6% UVB tube. With a reflector of at least half the body length, starting flush in the sun zone. But something similar to the ZooMed 5.0 would also be suitable.

Use in conjunction with plenty of shade and hiding – the snake can choose its exposure to UVB. This is the most natural way to provide such lighting.

You’ll find that someone always comes back with the argument:

“But these are NOT wild snakes. They are bred in captivity.” I always answer that. “Sure they are. But a few decades of captive breeding will NOT undo millions of years of evolution during which UVB is instinctively accessed and utilized by the snake in the wild.

In wild conditions would they have access to UVB in my opinion? Of course, we need to replicate and emulate wild conditions as best we can.

Is UVB essential for my corn snake?

As mentioned in the article, I am a strong believer in using UVB. This will of course also brighten up the setup and has advantages that they have access to in the wild.

But it has also been proven that UVB is not needed. That was the case for decades and it still is for many owners.

Therefore, LEDs like the White Python LED strips are safe and usable. In fact, I’ve used them myself in the past.

I would stick to reptile brands as they are tested in vivarium conditions.

Should I turn off my snake’s heat and UV lamps at night?

I have both heat (CHE) and UVB on a timer (you can do this via the Microclimate Evo) and they work on a 12 hour on/off cycle.

Unless you have a Microclimate Evo thermostat to drop the night temperature by a few degrees, the CHE needs to stay on 24/7.

You should turn off the UVB separately after 12 hours so your corn snake is in the dark for 12 hours. You can connect the UVB to a standard plug timer.

Wood chips are a substrate option for your corn snake

What is the best for snake bedding and substrate?

You have a few options:

newspaper

aspen

lignocel

wood chips

sand

hemp

sand/earth

Bioactive

linoleum

Substrate is always a topic that divides the crowd. What’s good for one goalkeeper may be hated by another, hence the pointless back-and-forth about it on social media.

For the past several years I have had great success using a bioactive setup on my corn snake as I do on all my snakes.

If you’re unfamiliar with that term, it’s basically a full-fledged ecosystem within the enclosure, using a variety of live bugs to help maintain the setup by removing litter, etc.

If you’re a reader of Practical Reptile Keeping, you may have seen the article I wrote about ball python organic enclosures. The setup instructions in it would be the same for a corn snake.

Unless you’re creating a bioactive setup, I recommend using something the snake can use, something more natural. Although linoleum or aspen are easy to clean, this is the best option for the snake. Or is it the best option for the goalie?

I will choose and recommend to reflect snake (or reptilian) needs. Always.

Even with the best care, your corn snake can still get sick.

Our corn snake insurance can cover your snake for up to £1,000 in veterinary fees. Two other policy options are also available, they include £1,000 vet fee, death and theft and death and theft only.

get an offer

Alternatively you can call us on 0345 982 5505

Humidity for a corn snake

My corn snake’s humidity is around 30-60% with a few sprays a week. I have a moisture meter on my thermometer, but I don’t do anything else about it. I don’t have a humidifier.

Of course, my natural setup helps with that. If you’re using something like newspaper, you may need to spray a lot more to maintain an adequate level of humidity.

Also, adding mosses to the decor will help maintain a constant humidity level. But with all humidity, a humidity spike is a good thing, this is achieved by spraying and allowing the setup to dry completely before spraying again. Additional spraying when they are due will also aid in this process.

High humidity in your snake’s terrarium is only bad if air circulation is poor. Stale air can cause health problems. So if that humidity doesn’t drop naturally, fixing the airflow by adding extra ventilation should fix the problem.

Twigs and skins can help stimulate your corn snake

Decorate your corn snake’s vivarium

Vines, branches and skins are all essential. I use a mix of items like branches and wood that I collect from the outside. However, make sure you don’t collect near roads due to carbon pollution and that you collect in a safe area free of pesticides.

Snakes like things to climb, places to hide, mental and physical stimulation. All of this contributes to the health and well-being of your snake.

A couple or three large branches stacked on top of each other will keep the snake busy and active. And adding a suitably sized hideout at each end of the setup for the snake to have a place to sleep/hide if needed is also something you will need to provide.

If you prefer not to collect items from outside, buying from a retailer is just as good and you don’t have to worry about the presence of toxins.

Water in my corn snake vivarium

Providing a source of clean water is a must.

Choose something that won’t tip over when set up, but is deep and wide enough for your snake to climb in and out of when needed.

As mentioned, snakes like a good bath on their own terms, usually when they’re too hot, or before they shed, as mentioned above.

You don’t want or need baths, so providing a good, sturdy bowl is your best option. I choose a sturdy ceramic bowl, dog or cat bowl I guess they are.

As the snake grows larger, the bowl follows suit.

Using a water conditioner is also something I personally do, although many don’t bother and have no problems with it.

When I keep frogs and chameleons where the chlorine in our water can damage their delicate skin and eyes, a conditioner like ZooMed ReptiSafe or Exo-Terra Aquitize is something I add a few drops of with every water change.

This removes all chlorine compounds in the water and adds vital electrolytes to the water.

cleaning

As previously mentioned, once a bioactive build is established, there is no need to clean it.

With any other substrate, be it aspen, lignocel, paper, etc., remove the waste as soon as it is noticed. If you use paper, just replace it as it is dirty.

For everything else, you could just clean that area and then do a full clean every few weeks.

Shed your corn snake

Provided your snake is hydrated and has logs, branches, decorations, etc. that allow for safe shed removal, all should be perfectly fine.

Occasionally, however, problems can arise. Reptiles that are poor eliminators are often B vitamin deficient, and the body’s stores of vitamins E, D3, calcium and magnesium are all important to support the body’s elimination process.

These vital components should be obtained via the rats, chicks and mice you feed, but for a boost in such essential nutrition it’s worth keeping a pack of Arcadia Shed Support if you previously had a more patchy shed.

This is loaded with a double dose of B-group vitamins, carotenoids and bee pollen. That has a lot of nutrients in it.

It comes in capsule form. And can be inserted into the mouth of the rat or mouse.

How long can a snake be outside its vivarium?

If you take your snake out of its vivarium for about 30 minutes weekly, I think it is sufficient if the setup meets the standard mentioned here.

Not only will it give the snake some new sights and smells, but it’s always a talking point for a zoo keeper.

It’s worth noting if you’re holding the snake and it starts to get restless, i.e. constantly moving and trying to get up or down, this is usually a sign that the snake is either getting stressed about being outside, or stressed when held. So you should then put it back in the terrarium.

One of the reasons corn snakes make such spectacular pets for beginners is that they’re one of the few reptile species hardy (and patient) enough to put up with regular handling. Read on to learn everything you need to know about handling corn snakes.

How to tame a corn snake

After bringing your new pet home, you will have to wait a while for them to settle in. This usually lasts about 2 weeks, but you should not start handling until it is eating regularly.

Once your corn snake is ready to be handled, take it slow at first—just like in any relationship. Start with short handling sessions (no longer than 5 minutes) and do not return the snake until it is calm. This teaches your pet how to behave during handling using rudimentary positive reinforcement. Once this is achieved you can work up to 10 minutes and gradually longer from there.

Corn snakes should be handled at least once or twice a week, but not more than once a day. Snakes don’t need social interaction for their sanity, but handling helps the snake stay tame and can also be a good opportunity for exercise. For more information on snake taming and training, I recommend checking out Lori Torrini’s YouTube channel.

How to keep your corn snake

Before picking your corn snake up, make sure she’s awake by patting her gently with a paper towel roll or petting her body with a snake hook. This will help him realize that it’s time for handling and not eating. As soon as its tongue starts to flick, you know the snake is awake. If you’re worried about being bitten, wear a pair of lightweight gloves.

Use your hand(s) to approach your snake from the side – approaching from above can trigger defensive instincts, as predators in the wild often attack from above. When lifting, hold as much of his body as possible and avoid grabbing his tail or holding his head.

Once the snake is in your hands and out of its enclosure, hold it close to your body and gently guide its movements with your hands. Corn snakes like to explore, so expect her to start climbing up your arms. Many like to drape around their owner’s neck or try to climb up their owner’s facial features (I’ve heard goggles are particularly popular for some reason). If this makes you uncomfortable, use one hand to gently guide the snake’s head away from your face.

When NOT to keep your corn snake

If your snake has eaten a meal in the last 48 hours, it’s not a good idea to start a treatment session. At worst, handling shortly after a meal can cause belching, which is very stressful and can even kill the snake. At best, it’s a very uncomfortable experience.

If your snake is in the shed, wait to handle the corn snake. A snake “in the blue” appears to have bluish, cloudy eyes, meaning they can be particularly defensive because they can’t see well. Wait for your pet to molt, then resume normal treatment.

will it bite me

Any animal with a mouth can and will bite with enough provocation – even I would bite someone if it were bothersome enough!

Cubs and young hatchlings are very nervous and defensive (actually a bit like a Napoleon complex) at this stage of life and will lash out at everything. This can be intimidating, but don’t get discouraged – you probably won’t even feel it.

Even adult bites aren’t severe or very painful, so you really don’t need to worry.

If the snake doesn’t “slam and let go,” resist the urge to pluck it off you. This puts her in danger of having her teeth ripped out, which can lead to a nasty infection from the snake. Instead, pour some cold water or a little Listerine mouthwash over your head and it should work itself out. Treat the “wound” with soap and water and you will be like a rain shower.

Body language of the corn snake

Corn snake body language is very simple, but there are a few pointers you should know in order to create the best possible relationship with your pet.

Tongue flicks in and out: Snake “smells” the air. That’s how it knows when prey or a human is nearby. Also signals that the snake is awake.

No movement or tongue flicking: Snake is probably asleep (they don’t have eyelids to close). Proceed carefully.

Head tucked in, neck coiled in an S-shape: Snake feels threatened and prepares to defend himself if necessary. Can also prepare to attack prey.

Hiss: Snake tells you to “go away”.

Tail shake/rattle: Snake feels threatened and tries to shoo away perceived predator.

Musky/Feces During Handling: Snake perceives you as a predator and uses feces or an unpleasant smelling musk to escape.

Cloudy/bluish eyes: Snake is preparing to cast off. Can be particularly defensive due to lack of sight.

At the end of the day, respect your snake’s mood. If they seem moody or uncomfortable, leave them alone.

PRO TIP: Wash your hands after handling prey or food for your other animals, as the smell could lead the snake to mistake your hands for food.

Continue reading:

Natural History Corn snakes are a very common pet snake native to the southern United States. They got their name because they were commonly found in granaries hunting for mice. They are considered harmless to humans and play a very important role in controlling rodent populations, especially around farms. Arguably the most popular pet snake in the UK, corn snakes have been kept and bred for decades. They were originally red/orange and brown, but have since been selectively bred for a range of pattern and color combinations. Although they can grow quite long, they remain slim and easy to manage. They generally have a very passive disposition, making them a great choice for first-time keepers. Corn snakes’ natural habitat consists of overgrown fields, forest edges, flat plains with burrows, or abandoned buildings (especially barns and farmhouses).

Southern United States of America Southern United States of America

Popular products Popular products

Enclosure Corn snakes come from a warm environment, so they struggle with the cold and damp conditions of the UK. To guard against both of these factors, we recommend keeping the snake in a wooden vivarium. Because of the temperature gradient required, we typically choose a chassis at least 3 x 2 x 2 feet with large vents and sliding glass doors on the front. All of this ventilation should ensure that heat and moisture are dissipated from one side of the enclosure to the other, while keeping the basking spot itself at a consistent temperature. Corn snakes can be a bit shy when young. We’re still using the full-size case to ensure the right temperature gradient is in place, but we’ll provide more decorations first.

Heating Of course, corn snakes would be exposed to temperatures of around 90°C in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the case while allowing the rest of the case to cool down to 70° on the opposite side. To achieve this, we attach a sun lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to ensure the temperature is maintained correctly throughout the day. Corn snakes can reach the top of their enclosure with no decoration to climb on, so the sunlamp must be surrounded by a keeper. The sun lamp is left on for 10-12 hours a day. At night, all lights should be off and the enclosure should be completely dark. This should ensure the snake has a clear day-night cycle. Although the sun has set by this time, there are still rocks, trails and roads that have warmed during the day and will radiate heat for much of the night. To provide this heat throughout the night without bringing light into the enclosure, we place a heat mat under the basking area. The heat mat warms objects around it and provides the corn snake with a warm floor to rest on. To ensure the heating mat stays at the correct temperature it is controlled by a simple on/off thermostat set at 80°C. The heating mat is buried under about 2.5 cm of bedding, the thermostat sensor is then placed on the bedding covering the heating mat so it can track the surface temperature of that piece of soil. During the day, your temperatures are way too warm and the ceramic lamp thermostat should turn it off automatically. The heating mat only starts to heat up when the temperatures have fallen below 80 °C at night. Although the thermostats we sell are very reliable, it is always best to monitor your temperatures with a thermometer. A 5 of variance on the sun spot isn’t a cause for concern as long as your cool side is still cool. A simple dial thermometer on each side should suffice, but digital stick thermometers are much more accurate.

Baby Corn Snake Baby Corn Snake Adult Corn Snake Adult Corn Snake

UVB Lighting Corn snakes don’t need UVB to use the calcium in their diet like other reptiles do, but it’s still a useful addition to the enclosure. The snake would naturally be exposed to UV light from sunlight in the wild and as we try to mimic nature in our enclosures we recommend providing some UVB. A 5% T8 UVB tube, 2-5% T5 UVB tube or a more powerful but smaller unit should suffice. The UV tube should be ceiling mounted at the back of the cabinet to provide a gradient of light parallel to the temperature gradient. There will be times when the snake will want less or no UVB, so partial and full covers should be placed across the full width of the enclosure.

Decoration Corn snakes thrive in a low-humidity environment with tough decorations to climb over and bask on. When choosing a bedding, we try to ensure that the pieces are not likely to increase humidity levels in the enclosure. In the store, we usually use a coarse beech wood chip because it is clean, cheap, easy to clean and dust-free. If you prefer a more natural decoration, an earth/clay mix would be perfect. If you plan on keeping the snake in a bioactive enclosure, a nutrient-rich soil and clay mix with some sand for aeration would be perfect. Corn snakes love the warmth emanating from their sunlamp, but they also appreciate the secondary abdominal warmth radiated from warm objects. Natural stones such as slate are perfect for this, as are heavy artificial ornaments. These decorations can be placed under and around the basking area and should be nice and warm. If the lamp is set too low, there is a chance that natural stones will get too hot. So it is best to check the surface temperature to avoid burns. As discussed in the lighting section, there will be times when the snake doesn’t want UV and needs some shade. To ensure the snake can escape the light if necessary, we recommend providing full and partial coverage throughout the enclosure. Examples of full-coverage decorations are caves, flat pieces of cork, or other ornaments that provide a shady place to rest. Examples of partial coverage would be tall plants, hanging plants.

Diet & Water Corn snakes are carnivores and should be fed frozen, thawed food. Although they are opportunists, we have found that mice are the best food for a corn snake. A particularly large corn snake may transition to the smaller rats once adult, but a rodent-only diet is best. As juveniles, corn snakes should be fed weekly with thawed small mice, as the snake grows the feed size should be increased until the snake takes large mice or even jumbos. Adult corn snakes can be fed every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly. More exotic alternative diets such as gerbils, hamsters, multimummy mice or chicks could be used if the corn snake doesn’t tolerate anything else, but they are not as nutritious as the mice, they can be difficult to find in the required size and they are not always as available. We always place a medium or large bowl of water in the snake’s enclosure. You may notice that the snake uses it for bathing, usually to cool off or loosen its peeling skin. Both the water dish should be kept on the cool side of the enclosure to prevent it from increasing the humidity in the enclosure.

Breeding If you keep a male and a female together, they can reproduce. You don’t have to do anything to encourage this. Of course, as long as they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen. You must consider whether this is what you want before introducing the couple. What will you do with the babies when you hatch the eggs? A pregnant female should have access to a nest box to lay her eggs. The box should be big enough for her to turn completely inside. Inside the nest box we use a soil mix that is kept moist enough to hold its shape but not so wet that it saturates all of the eggs. We have found ProRep Spider Life to be perfect for this. After laying, the eggs should be incubated in an incubator at 84oF. We incubate our eggs in sealed boxes on a moisture rich substrate (like Hatchrite) to seal in the moisture around the eggs. After about 60 days the eggs will begin to hatch, the first babies to hatch will stimulate the rest of the eggs to hatch.

Corn snakes are common and make great pets.

introduction

Corn snakes are commonly available as healthy, captive bred animals from a variety of sources. Pet stores, reptile shows, and private breeders are all great places to buy a pet corn snake.

exchange names)

corn snake. Sometimes called Red Rat Snake.

family and scientific name

colubridae; Pantherophis guttatus guttatus (formerly known as Elaphe guttata)

Reach & Origin

Southeastern and Central United States

adult size

A large adult female corn snake can be up to 6 feet long. Typically a male is a good 1-1.5 feet shorter than a female.

life span

The lifespan of corn snakes in captivity is typically around 10-15 years, although records exist of corn snakes surviving over 20 years in captivity.

enclosure

When choosing an enclosure, corn snakes are not too picky. Basically, you want an enclosure that is good at retaining heat, doesn’t hold moisture, and allows for easy viewing and access to your corn snake. Most importantly, the enclosure is secure, as snakes are excellent escape artists. Standard glass aquariums or Exo Terra glass terrariums work well for young corn snakes. If you are using a standard aquarium, be sure to use a sufficiently large strainer attachment. A standard 20 liter (30″ x 12″) glass aquarium does well for a young corn snake up to about 36 inches in size. After your corn snake is longer, a 40B (36″x18″) aquarium would work well. Josh’s Frogs carries many Corn Snake Kits that make setting up a home for your new pet easy and inexpensive.

Exo Terra glass terrariums are suitable for smaller corn snakes.

substrate

Opinions about corn snake substrates vary widely. Acceptable substrates range from reptile bark to reptile carpet. Personally, I prefer to keep corn snakes on aspen or recycled paper bedding. Some keepers even prefer newspaper. Spot clean the chosen reptile substrate every day and replace every 1-2 months or more often if needed.

Aspen bedding is a good substrate choice for corn snakes.

temperature

Maintaining temperature for corn snakes is fairly easy with a heating pad. Aim for a basking spot of around 85-90F and a cool finish in the high 70’s/low 80’s. There are several types of corn snake heating pads available – I find the Exo Terra heating pad provides the ideal temperature for your corn snakes. Heaters should always be used in conjunction with a thermostat. The thermostat not only makes sure your pet gets warm enough – it also makes sure it doesn’t get too hot in the event of a device malfunction.

At night, the temperature can easily drop into the high 60s. If the temperature is too low, a night heat lamp can be used to raise the temperature.

All temperatures should be routinely monitored to ensure your corn snake is getting the warmth it needs. There are many such products on the market for this purpose, including temperature control guns and digital thermometers.

Temperatures should be carefully monitored in your corn snake’s enclosure.

lighting

Corn snakes are not typically very active during the day and are mostly nocturnal. As such, lighting is often not necessary for your corn snake. Corn snakes need a regular day-night rhythm. If your pet corn snake isn’t getting this via room lights or light from a window, consider adding a light on a timer.

social structure

In general, corn snakes are best housed alone. Corn snakes may actually try to eat a cage mate that is smaller than them. Many keepers choose to house their corn snakes individually and only bring them together for mating.

diet

In captivity, corn snakes feed primarily on rodents. If possible, try feeding frozen/thawed mice or rats live – not only is this more convenient for you, but it also eliminates the possibility of a prey animal harming your corn snake.

Corn snakes should be provided with a bowl of water large enough for the snake to soak in. This gives the corn snake plenty of water to drink, helps increase ambient humidity, and aids in molting. All tap water used should be treated with a water dechlorinator. Change the water once a day.

cleaning

Corn snake enclosures should be cleaned frequently with a 5% bleach solution and then air dried. Corn snakes typically only go to the bathroom 1-2 times a week, so frequent spot cleaning is easy. Completely change the substrate every 1-2 months or more often if necessary.

handling

Corn snakes are generally very easy to deal with. After bringing home a new snake, let it successfully eat several times before handling it regularly. Don’t handle young snakes more than once a week or so. Wait a few days after feeding your snake before passing it on – this allows the snake to digest the prey.

Additional reading

This care sheet is by no means intended to be the only source of information about corn snakes. Josh’s Frogs strongly recommended additional research through literature and online forums. There are some great books available for reference on the Josh’s Frogs website.

It’s always a good idea to do as much research as you can before bringing your new pet home.

Conclusion

Corn snakes are great reptile pets for the beginner, intermediate, or advanced breeder. Already coveted for their easy nature and easy care, corn snakes are now available in a variety of color morphs, making them even more desirable.

ball python (Python regius)

The ball python is quite simply the most popular pet python in the world. Ball Pythons are generally somewhat shy, but they make ideal captives as they are small, generally friendly, easy to care for, and come in a remarkable range of colors and patterns.

Ball pythons are native to central and western Africa and thrive in these warm, tropical areas. They are known as ball pythons in many parts of the world and are revered in some areas of Africa.

advertisement

Ball pythons make quality pets for both the first-time owner and experienced herpetoculturist. Every year, breeders create incredible, innovative, never-before-seen variations in pattern and color that continually bring forth new ball python fans. With reptile health and welfare in mind, this species thrives in captivity.

Copyright: Kevin McCurley Granite ball python.

Ball Python availability

Ball pythons are fairly easy to acquire. They are typically available at pet stores, reptile breeders, reptile shows, and through online reptile stores and breeders. The best choices will always be captive born and bred snakes as they are usually parasite free and most likely the healthiest. Any ball python should be well started and eaten before purchase.

ball python size

Ball python hatchlings are about 10 inches long. Adult female ball pythons average 3 to 5 feet in length and adult male ball pythons average 2 to 3 feet tall. This is a species where mature females are typically much larger than males. A 5-foot ball python is considered large, although lengths of 6 feet or more have been reported.

ball python lifespan

With proper care, ball pythons can live 30 years or more. The record age for ball pythons is over 40 years, so plan for a long life for your new pet snake.

advertisement

Photo Credit: Kevin McCurley Spider Killer Bee Ball Python.

ball python cage husbandry

Ball python enclosures can be as simple or as elaborate as you desire when it comes to snake habitat products. Remember, the more you put in the cage, the more you need to clean and disinfect regularly. However, there are a variety of enclosures that work well for ball pythons, including but not limited to plastic sweater boxes (e.g. Rubbermaid), melamine racks, and any commercially available plastic reptile cage. Glass reptile terrariums and tanks are adequate for ball pythons, but the screen covers of such enclosures can make it very difficult to maintain proper humidity levels.

advertisement

Juvenile ball pythons seem to do well in small enclosures where they feel safe. A small snake in a large cage can become overwhelmed and stressed. Even adult ball pythons do not need an exceptionally large or complex enclosure. A 36 inch by 18 inch by 12 inch enclosure will more than comfortably house an adult ball python.

Spot clean your ball python’s enclosure as needed. Remove feces and urine as soon as possible. You can use a special cleaner to be extra safe, such as B. the Eco Clean Waste Remover from Flukers. Perform a complete disassembly every 30 days by removing all substrate and reptile accessories and fully disinfecting with a 5 percent bleach solution. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly with water and allow it to dry completely before changing cage accessories and your snake.

The only cage accessory needed for a happy ball python is a good hide box. . . maybe even a few of them (like the Zilla Habba Hut). Ball pythons are mysterious snakes that value and use hiding spots. Provide one at each end of your Python’s case so it doesn’t have to choose between temperature and safety. Clay flower pots, plastic flower pots, and commercially available stash boxes all work well.

Advertisement Copyright: Kevin McCurley Inferno Super Pastel (Super Pastel/Hidden-Gene Woma/Granite/Yellowbelly) ball python.

Reptile heating & lighting

Keep in mind that the enclosures must allow for an appropriate thermal gradient for the ball python to utilize, with a hot spot at one end of the enclosure and a cool spot at the other. Provide your ball python with a sun temperature of 88 to 96 degrees Fahrenheit and an ambient temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. The ambient temperature should not fall below 75 degrees. Knowing the temperatures you are keeping your snake(s) at is extremely important. Don’t guess! A good way to monitor temperatures is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe such as B. the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer. Tape the thermometer to the inside of the cage at the cold end and place the probe at the warm end and you have both sides covered at once.

There are several different types of snake heat lamps that will help warm a ball python enclosure. Undercage heating pads and bands like the Zilla heating pad, ceramic radiant heaters (Flukers), solar bulbs (both regular day and red night bulbs) are just a few. With radiant heaters and lightbulbs, it’s important to keep an eye on the humidity level inside the case, especially when paired with a screen cover, as both dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats (Flukers thermo-hygrometers) and/or reptile timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot stones with snakes, as they heat up unevenly on too small a surface and can cause severe burns.

Additional lighting is not required for ball pythons, but should be run on a 12/12 cycle when used, meaning 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Continuous bright overhead lights are stressful for snakes, especially nocturnal species like the ball python. Ball pythons seem to prefer a humidity level of 50 to 60 percent. Maintaining proper humidity will allow your ball python to shed properly.

advertisement

Copyright: Kevin McCurley Desert Spirit Lemon Pastel Ball Python.

snake substrate

Newspaper and paper towels are the cheapest and easiest bases for ball pythons to clean and disinfect – out the old, in the new. Cypress mulch and orchid bark are great substrates for moisture control, but remember that too much moisture can be just as damaging (if not more) than too little. Never use a substrate that contains cedar wood as it contains oils that can be deadly to reptiles! Avoid sand, shavings and peat litter.

advertisement

What food for a ball python

Feed your ball python an appropriately sized rodent weekly. “Appropriate size” means prey items no larger in girth than the ball python at its largest girth. Ball pythons can eat rats from an early age – beginning as rat pups, or “crawlers,” and increasing in size as they grow. Do not touch your ball python for at least a day after feeding, as this can cause burping. Ball pythons can be fed frozen/thawed or prekilled rodents. Never leave a live rodent unattended with a snake as they can injure the snake.

Ball pythons are notorious for not eating at certain times of the year, particularly during the winter months. Be prepared for the possibility of your ball python losing food and keep an eye on the snake’s overall condition and body weight. In healthy, established pythons, this isn’t usually a cause for concern, although it can be extremely frustrating for the snake keeper. If your ball python is healthy, continue with your housing routine as usual, but keep handling to a minimum. Offer food to your ball python every 10 to 14 days until it becomes interested in eating again, as the snake will eventually return to eating normally.

Feed adult ball pythons every 1 to 2 weeks and younger ball pythons weekly as they need this energy to grow. Don’t be alarmed if a well-started ball python loses food during the cooler, drier seasons, as this is common in captivity. Snakes generally do not eat while in the shedding cycle.

Copyright: Kevin McCurley Coral Glow Woma Granite ball python.

ball python water

Always have fresh, clean water available for your ball python. Check the water daily. The size of the water bowl is up to you. If it’s big enough for the ball python to crawl in and soak itself, sooner or later your snake will make the most of the opportunity – ball pythons seem to enjoy a nice bath from time to time. Make sure the water bowl for hatchling is not too deep – about 2.5 cm is enough. Snakes of many species will defecate in their water bowls from time to time, so be prepared to clean and disinfect the water bowl. The water bowl should be cleaned and disinfected weekly. For such occasions, it can be handy to have a spare water bowl so you can use one while the other is being cleaned.

Ball Python handling and temperament

Ball pythons are generally shy and spend much of their time hiding. Your ball python may initially see you as a threat and need to learn who you are. The goal is to build trust between you and your snake.

Always support your ball python’s body and avoid quick movements. Once a ball python realizes you won’t hurt them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. Some ball pythons may attempt to hide if handled, and occasionally there are those who may even bite out of excessive fear. These ball pythons may need a little more time to acclimate and build trust. A ball python bite is a superficial wound. If a snake looks like it’s about to strike, it’s best not to touch it. Relax while holding your pet – sit down and give the pet a chance to calm down.

Some snakes may not eat for several hours or more after being treated. So avoid touching them when you want to feed them. After a snake has eaten, it may be a good idea to limit handling as this can be uncomfortable for the animal. Avoid placing your snake’s cage in a high traffic area, excessive exercise and other pets should be avoided.

Kevin McCurley is the source for Ball Python maintenance and information. Visit his website at NewEnglandReptile.com.

View archived comments

Rated 5 out of 5 stars Empty star Empty star Empty star Empty star Empty star Filled star Filled star Filled star Filled star Filled star

By Snakemom on November 10, 2021

Exo Terra XL water bowl

Very satisfied! I received it today, it was well packaged. It’s very big. It could last the life of my snakes. My oldest corn snake is only two, so she still has a lot to grow, but she’s got plenty of room to soak in here. It’s very hard for those who are wondering if your pet tips them, I can’t imagine that happening unless your pet has hands and wants to do it. I was suspicious of buying a bowl online but Chewy never fails me with customer service, if something goes wrong they make it right. So I took the chance. No regret.

Many rainforest species require high humidity to remain stress free. If the overall humidity in a captive habitat is too low, these species may retreat to the aquatic bowl. Notable species exhibiting this behavior are rainbow boas (Epicrates spp.) and viper boas (Candoia asper). To counteract this, regularly spray the housing with water at room temperature. Reducing ventilation is another option for increasing the relative humidity of a habitat, but you must do this judiciously to ensure adequate air exchange. If you reduce ventilation, condensation may form on the glass or walls of the cage. While small patches of condensation are not a problem, too much condensation encourages the growth of fungi and bacteria. If large spots of condensation appear, ventilation must be increased.