Crown Green Bowls Stickers? Top Answer Update

Lawn trays can last for several decades as long as they are properly cared for. In this guide, we cover the most common bowl care questions that we get asked on a regular basis.

Lawn trays can last for several decades as long as they are properly cared for. In this guide, we cover the most common bowl care questions that we get asked on a regular basis. If you follow the instructions and steps here, you can enjoy your lawn trays for many years to come.

How to clean lawn bowls

Regularly cleaning lawn trays will help keep them working well. Over time, dirt, grime, and high-grip applications can cause your lawn trays to become difficult to grip. We recommend washing your lawn trays every 3 months.

For cleaning your lawn bowls

Soak the shells in hot, soapy water

Use a toothpick to clean the grooves and handles

Wash again in clean water to remove excess residue

Dry with a microfiber cloth

Give your bowls the finishing touch with a special bowl polish or with a polishing sleeve

How to remove scratches

Scuffs and scratches can be frustrating, but they don’t affect the bowl’s performance. They can occur in many ways during normal play – such as banging bowls together or hitting wooden planks in the ditches.

If scuffs are annoying, try the following:

First, try buffing the bowl with a special lawn bowl polish. This can sometimes be enough to remove minor marks

If it’s still there, try a ball of fine steel wool. Gently rub the wool across the mark. Don’t worry about further damaging the bowl, the fine steel wool shouldn’t cause any further scratches. After a short while, wash the shells and give them a finishing touch

There are specialist companies that can remove scuffs, but it probably won’t be worth it as bowls always get stained!

Why polish lawn shells?

There are many reasons why you should polish your lawn bowls regularly. The main reason is that it protects the surface of the bowl itself. Similar to a protective layer, bowl polish can protect against future scratches and scuffs while removing minor scrapes and stains.

Shell polish is often used as a grip enhancer. Bowl polishes leave a sticky feel on the bowl which is ideal for most bowlers and allows them to control the bowl during their throwing technique.

The only reason not to polish your bowls is if you play indoor bowls and a club in your area specifically prohibits its use. Many indoor bowling clubs dislike bowls polish as it can leave marks on the carpet that can be detrimental to its longevity.

Can you use furniture polish on lawn bowls?

While using furniture polish will not damage your lawn bowls, it will not achieve the same results as using a specialty lawn bowl polish.

What color can I use for lawn shells?

A quality enamel paint can be used on lawn trays. The color is only used during the production process on the grips, rings and the emblems. The rest of the shell is colored by the compound used to create the body of the shell itself. Therefore, it is not recommended to paint the surface of a lawn bowl.

Can I repaint my lawn shells?

It is possible to repaint lawn bowls, however we would not recommend doing this yourself. Bowl change laws are ambiguous and you may be turned away by stricter clubs.

The question remains whether the painting is done to a standard where the shells remain an “identical set” and whether the color alters the bias in any way. This can apply to any livery change – be it a complete repaint of the entire shell or just the handles or rings

There are lawn bowl renovation companies that are authorized to make these changes if you wish to spruce up your old set of bowls and we would recommend finding one in your area if you wish to do so.

Have your lawn shells stamped

It may not always be necessary to have your lawn bowls stamped, especially if you play at club level. However, the stamping process ensures your bowls are in good condition and ensures the entire set is standard.

The stamping process checks for marks or wear that affect the performance of each shell. After the process, you can be sure that all four shells are behaving correctly.

Learn more about the stamping process and its benefits below.

How to store lawn trays

Lawn bowls are best stored in a bowl bag. This is a small stretcher with four pockets – one for each bowl. This will prevent the shells from getting damaged which would cause them to bang together

When not playing or during the off-season, it is best to store your lawn bowls in a cool, dry place. Avoid humid or fluctuating environments.

A cupboard under the stairs or a garage is ideal. Avoid places like the attic or garden shed.

Answers to the most common questions from beginners.

What are the balls in lawn bowls called?

In the case of lawn bowls, the balls are called “bowls” or “woods”. “Woods” refers to the fact that they used to be made of wood, but the more common term today is “bowls”.

What are bowls made of?

Lawn trays were originally made from wood but are now made from composite plastic.

Not only does this extend the life of the shells, but it also allows manufacturers to make the shells to the same specifications every time.

Why do lawn shells curve?

Lawn bowls aren’t perfectly round—at least not to the naked eye. One side will be slightly larger than the other, this is called “bias”.

It’s the extra weight on one side of the bowl that creates the curve.

Different models have different preloads, the greater the preload, the more the shell will curve. This allows a bowler to select a bowl that creates the desired curve.

Do bowls expire?

No, bowls do not have an expiration date. As long as there is no visible damage, they should be usable regardless of age.

Shells need to be “stamped” every few years if you want to compete at a high level. The stamp shows that the shells have been tested to high standards and can be used in competitive play.

What is the best brand of lawn bowls?

The best lawn bowl brands are Aero, Drakes Pride, Thomas Taylor and Henselite. These 4 brands produce almost all lawn trays sold worldwide. Aero and Henselite are top brands in Australia, while Drakes Pride and Thmas Taylor are top UK brands.

If you want to learn more about which brands and models are right for you, check out our lawn pan reviews, otherwise you can check out our top lawn pan brands of 2021.

How long do lawn trays last?

Lawn trays can last 20-30 years with proper care – if not longer. Turf trays can undergo a process called “stamping,” which is a series of tests and repairs. You can tell when a bowl was last “stamped” by the markings on the bowl.

What is Jack High in Lawn Bowls?

“Jack High” refers to a bowl that ends directly parallel to the jack. Both the jack and the bowl came with the exact same force (or “weight”). This is the ideal result for a delivery in a lawn tray.

Are all lawn shells the same weight?

No, not all lawn shells have the same weight. Depending on the size of the bowl, they can weigh anywhere from 1.1kg to 1.5kg

Can you bowl in the rain?

Yes, you can play lawn bowls in light rain. However, in the event of heavier rain, you will have to stop to protect the green. According to Bowls Australia, play may continue: “If it begins to rain, play will continue until the contest director deems it unsafe or the greens become unplayable.” (Bowls Australia Weather Policy)

Here’s a video showing that lawn bowls can, and often do, be played in fairly heavy rain.

What shells do the pros use?

The most popular bowls for pros who play indoor bowls are Taylor Ace, Drake’s Pride Professional, Henselite Tiger II and Aero GroOVe. You can see which bowls each of the top players are using by checking out coverage from the World Bowls Indoor Championships World Bowls Tour.

How much does a set of lawn shells cost?

A brand new set of 4 shells can range from £219 to £350. The price can be higher if you want extras like unique grips or custom logos. Bowls are available second hand and a set in decent condition can be found for under £50.

Which activities you want to participate in depends on your personal preferences. So if you decide to join the Crown Green Game, you might as well try to make the most of it. This is a sport played outdoors on a site known as a bowling green.

The best brands from Crown Green Bowl

The Best Crown Green Bowl Brands of 2022 are:

Thomas Taylor Crown Green bowls

Drake’s pride

Henselite Crown Green shells

game goal

The point of the game is to roll a set of two cups towards a smaller cup called the jack. Your own bowls should end closer to the jack than your opponent’s bowls.

How best to play modern Crown Green Bowls

Not so long ago, Kronengrün players only played with wooden bowls. Today, the modern crown green bowls are made from a special plastic composite material. Although the material is the same as the flat green bowls, crown bowls are smaller and not as heavy.

Unlike lawn green bowls, which are played on flat rinks, crown greens are played with a crown/mound portion that affects the way bowls roll.

height and weight

The best way to play is to choose the appropriate crown green cup sizes, as no two cups are the same physical size. The shells are not the same weight, so put more effort into choosing the most comfortable crown green shell weight. You should not choose the heaviest bowl, as heavier bowls tend to be larger and you may not be comfortable holding the bowl in your hand.

The best way to hold bowls

The typical size of a crown green shell starts at 2 lbs, up to 2 lbs 12 oz. The best way to hold the bowl is to rock it in your hand so the bowl rolls out of your hand properly. Hold it so that it is pointing in the direction you want it to move.

shell density

Crown Green bowlers can choose from standard density bowls, high density bowls and low density bowls. Which high density crown green trays you choose will depend on the flat green. Whether you’re using used shells or new shells, make sure you choose the right density.

Standard density trays

Standard density bowls tend to work well on both fast and slow greens and are easily adjustable. The standard density bowl has no maintenance costs and is best for beginners.

High Density Shells

The higher density shells have a denser plastic, which reduces the shell’s hand size for a given weight. It’s easier to control and hold a high-density bowl because it’s smaller. These bowls will pull up quicker on a fast green instead of simply flying past the target, but will come close to the target when used on slower greens.

Low density shell

Lower density shells are made of either wood or plastic. The naturally produced wood shells are not as delicate as standard density shells. The physical size of the bowl is larger for a given weight, making it ideal for slow or heavy greens.

However, the bowl feels bigger in the hand and can run continuously on a fast green. Consequently, beginners have trouble controlling these shells due to their endurance properties.

Pot selection – best crown green pots

If you are ready to make the most of this game, you can join some of your local clubs like: B. the Bredon Bowling Club, with some suitable raised surfaces. When it comes to choosing a bowl brand, the range of brands is wide, ranging from Thomas Taylor to Drake’s Pride.

You’ll likely use the same bowls for years, so choose wisely.

Thomas Taylor Crown Green bowls

If you’re buying crown green bowls from Thomas Taylor, you should know that they use the same standards for crown green bowls as they do for their flat green bowls. Therefore, their crown shells are equally accurate and consistent. Crown green shells from Thomas Taylor offer models like the Deluxe, Elite and Grippa. The Deluxe model is their classic model that comes in black or brown color options.

Drake’s Pride Bowls

The second best option out there is buying a Drakes Pride Bowl. Drake’s Pride Bowls have shorter and wider soles than Taylor’s, and they snag less despite having the same incline. You can choose from grippy shells, non-grip shells, Hi-Density Deluxe, Lo-Density Deluxe, or any other model that suits your needs.

Henselite Crown Green shells

These bowls share similar characteristics to Drake’s Pride bowls, but differ in price. The Henselite Super Grip is significantly cheaper than the Drake’s Deluxe.

Conclusion

In summary, to be good at Crown Green Bowling you need to follow certain principles and tactics and choose the right brand. Make sure you choose shells that fit your hands best, with the appropriate density, size, and weight. Last but not least, buy bowls from the best manufacturers out there because bowl quality and suitability are key to your success in the game.

Lawn bowls is a popular game in which balls, called bowls, roll towards a target on the green. Since this game is usually played outdoors, your shells may wear out or accumulate dirt and grime during the game. If your bowls get dirty, you can clean them with mild soap and warm water. Polish your bowls regularly to maintain the right hold and a beautiful shine.

Removing dirt and grime

1. Use a wooden toothpick to clean the handles. Many lawn bowls have handles to make it easier for you to hold the bowls during play. Dirt and grime can quickly build up in the handles, especially if your bowls have ring or grooved handles. Before washing your bowl, use a large wooden toothpick or skewer to remove stubborn dirt from the handles.

Do not use a metal toothpick or skewer to clean the handles. This could scratch your shells.

2. Wash the bowls in hot water with a mild detergent. Once you’ve scraped excess dirt from the handles, soak your bowls in hot water and soap, or a gentle detergent like laundry detergent or dish soap. Rub the shells with your hands or a microfiber washcloth to remove stubborn dirt.

As an alternative to washing with soap and water, you can use a steam cleaner like those used to clean bowling balls.

3. Use mineral spirits to remove heavier dirt. You can remove stubborn grease, dirt, and stains by wiping down your bowls with a cloth soaked in mineral spirits. You may want to do a spot test first to make sure the mineral spirits isn’t damaging the paint on your shells.

White spirit is also known as white spirit, mineral turpentine or turpentine substitute. You can buy mineral spirits at a hardware store or hardware store.

4. Dry the shells with a microfiber cloth. Once your bowls are clean, you can either air dry them or wipe dry with a soft towel or polishing cloth. If you use a towel, choose one that’s made of soft microfiber so you don’t scratch your bowls.

The bias

In crown green shells, both the jack and the shells have a bias. The bias causes the jack or bowl to curve left or right as it rolls across the green. The bias is caused solely by the shape of the bowl or jack, not by the use of weights as is often assumed.

On a shell, the preload side is identified by a small concave “dimple” in the side that can be felt with fingers. In a jack, the non-bias side is marked with three dots or circles.

The effect of bias increases as the bowl/jack slows down. This means that the bowl/jack spins the most in the final few yards before stopping.

thumb and finger stick

Whether a jack or bowl curves to the left or right depends on the orientation in which it is held in the hand upon delivery. The way it is held is known as a peg.

There are two types of rolls when bowing a jack or bowl: thumb rolls and finger rolls. This simply refers to whether the bias side is closest to your thumb or pinky when held in your delivery hand. It’s common to tell your opponent which pin you’re bowling at when sending out the jack*.

For a right-handed person, a bowl/jack that curves to the right is held with the bias near the thumb and is therefore sent with thumb peg.

However, for a left-hander, a bowl/jack that curves in the same direction (to the right) is held with the bias closest to the pinky of the left hand, so the left-hander sent finger peg. It is customary to tell your opponent at the beginning of the game if you are left-handed*.

* While it’s polite to tell your opponent if you’re left-handed and what peg you’re sending the jacks to, the rules don’t oblige you to do so either. Some players use this to gain the upper hand. I plan to cover these tactical devices in future articles.

bias strength

Newly manufactured bowls and jacks must both have a bias “strength” known as “2-full” to comply with official league rules. This is a nominal “standard” adopted in the game’s development in the past.

A 2-full bias bowl should follow the same line as a 2-full bias jack sent the same distance. It should end right in front of the jack.

It is possible to set your bowls to have a “heavier” slope, known as either a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 slope. A 2 1/4 bowl should end 4 inches on a side, and a 2 1/2 bowl should end 8 inches on a side. It is the bowler’s personal taste as to what strength to use. Be careful when using old or used shells as they can reach any of these alternate bias strengths.

summary

You can see that when you combine the slope of a bowl, the choice of peg, the crown of the green and the uneven nature of the grass surface, the ability to send a bowl exactly where you want it takes great skill.

Bias strengths and naming convention for crown green bowls are very different from those used in lawn bowls. The Jack (Kitty) used in Lawn Green bowls has no bias at all.

Each set of diamond-turned Henselite scales is the result of highly tuned, precision engineering developed over 80 years of manufacturing innovation.

All of the shells in a set are individually weight tested and balanced to give you the ultimate in consistent performance on any green…every time.

We are so convinced of the quality of our workmanship that we give a ten-year guarantee on every bowl set. However, we encourage you to continue caring for your bowls as we have, to allow them to perform at their best.

Q. What is the best way to store and transport my bowls?

A. Henselite Bowls Bags are specially designed to protect your bowls when in storage or transport. Place the shells in the bag so that they run on the tread, not the engraving. This protects the engraving from wear and tear.

Q. What do I do if my bowls come into contact with sand or grit?

A. To avoid the abrasive effects of sand or grit, wipe down your bowls with a Henselite polishing cloth or sleeve before placing them in your suitcase or bag. Make sure the bottom of your shell container or bag is free of sand or grit.

Q. How do I keep the shine on my bowls?

A. Polish your bowls regularly with Grippo and use a Henselite polishing cloth or sleeve to maintain a ‘new bowl’ shine. If too much polish has built up on your bowls, wash the bowls in hot water with soap or a mild detergent (e.g. dish soap), then dry and polish as usual.

Q. Light scratch marks have appeared on the tread of my shells. Is that normal?

A. New, highly polished shells will always show slight scratch marks on the running surface after use. These marks do not in any way affect the performance of the bowl or indicate a problem with the bowl. They can usually be buffed out with Grippo and a Henselite polishing cloth or sleeve, or lightly rubbed with fine steel wool and then buffed as usual.

Q. I can’t polish out some scratches. Will this affect the performance of my shells?

A. Some greens may be “top-dressed” with a sharp, abrasive, granite-like sand. This can cause bowls to scratch or wear out more quickly. If the tread wears evenly, the performance of the drum will not be affected.

Q. Will my shells tilt with normal use?

A. The pitch of a lawn pan can be affected by wear and tear from normal use. If you regularly use two or three shells, rotate the four shells in your set so wear is evenly distributed. This will ensure your shells stay tuned for preload. We also recommend that you have your bowls re-tested every three years to ensure the deviation is still within World Bowls Ltd regulations.

Q. My colored trays are dirty, how do I clean them?

A. Colored bowls can be marked by contact with other bowls and with the ditch. Gently clean your bowls by washing them with a mild detergent to remove these stains, then polish as usual.

Code for bowls played outdoors on a grass or artificial turf surface

Crown green bowls (or crown green) is code for bowls played outdoors on a grass or artificial turf surface known as a bowling green. The sport’s name derives from the intentionally convex or uneven nature of the bowling green, which is traditionally shaped with a raised center known as the crown.

Crown Green Bowls are played in the Midlands and Northern half of England and North Wales.

game [edit]

The goal of crown green cups is to roll a set of two cups from your hand to a smaller target cup known as a jack.[6] Rolling the bowl or jack is known as delivery. When delivering a bowl or jack, the player must place one foot on a mat to ensure all bowls and jacks are sent from the same place.

A complete game consists of several ends. An ending is where the jack is rolled first. The player who sends the jack can choose to drop it anywhere on the bowling green. This ability to throw an end in any direction is a unique trait of crown green shells. Players then take turns rolling each of their shells toward the jack. An ending ends when all shells have been delivered. In the amateur field it is common to play several ends at the same time on one green. If two moving forests meet, both are taken back and the shots are repeated. If a moving wood hits a stationary wood or jack from another end, it is taken back and played again, but the struck bowl is replaced where the contact occurred.

The goal of an end is for a player to end up with their own bowls closer to the jack than their opponent’s. For each bowl that is closer than the opponent’s, a player gets one point. Each player usually has two shells, allowing a maximum of two points at each end. A score of one or two is indicated to the two markers (one from each team in a team game) by raising one or two hands. The winner of the end delivers the jack in the next end.

Competitive matches are usually played between two people, with the winner being the first person to accumulate 21 points. An unlimited number of endings will be played until someone wins. There are variations where players can have more than two bowls, games are played to 31 points or more, or players form teams of two or more players.

Bowling Green[ edit ]

Crown Green Bowls are played on a specially prepared, short-cut, smooth turf known as the bowling green, or simply the green (usually 45 yards by 45 yards). The green usually has a raised center known as the crown, which can often be up to 30 centimeters above the edge of the green. The green has a ditch around the edge and slopes down from crown to ditch on all sides. Greens are usually rectangular or square, but L-shaped and circular greens also exist. The surfaces also often have ridges, troughs, and slopes to make play more difficult. Because of this multitude of historical differences, no rules are established by the British Crown Green Bowls Association on the shape, size or height of the crown.

Bowls gear [ edit ]

bowls [ edit ]

In Crown Green shells, players use two shells each. Bowls are also commonly referred to as wood. No official markings are required on the shells, although manufacturer’s branding and the weight of the shells are common. Players often have their initials marked on one side or use stickers to identify their bowls. One side of the shell has an indentation or indentation that allows the player to tell by touch which side of the shell has the bias.

Crown green shells come in a variety of thicknesses, weights, densities, sizes, materials, and colors. The minimum weight is 0.91 kg (2 lb), but there is no maximum weight.[8]

Shells are labeled and sold by weight and are available from 2lb 0oz to 2lb 14oz in 1oz increments. They were traditionally made from Lignum Vitae wood but are now made from a composite plastic. Wood shells have variable density throughout the core due to the nature of wood. Plastic trays have a consistent and regular density throughout, and manufacturers can produce trays of different densities, commonly known as standard, low density, and high density. This means that a smaller bowl with a higher density can weigh the same as a larger bowl with a lower density.

There are two ways to deliver a shell: with or against the bias. Sending a bowl with your thumb on the biased side is called a thumb rest, and sending a bowl with your thumb on the unbiased side is called a finger rest. The different pins determine which direction the bowl goes. A player delivering the jack is expected to indicate which pin is being used, but a player delivering a subsequent wood does not.

Jack[edit]

The jack, also commonly known as the block, is a smaller version of the cups used by each player in a crown green cup game and also includes a bias. There are written specifications that determine the size, weight, and preload strength of jacks.[8] To be used in an official league game or competition recognized by the British Crown Green Bowls Association, the jacks must be black, white or yellow. Other colors are available for practical use.

Bushings have different markings on each side. On one side is a single circle with the manufacturer’s name and other official inscriptions. This side of the bushing is the preload side. The other side has a single circle surrounded by three filled dots or smaller circles indicating the unbiased side. Official jacks must also be date stamped with an approved date every seven years to comply with the rules. Jacks are 9.5 cm (3 & 3/4 in) in diameter and weigh approximately 660 grams (1 lb 7 oz).

mat [edit]

The mat is also called footer. It is usually black and has a textured finish to improve grip. It is a simple circular rubber mat, 14 cm (4.5 inches) in diameter and about 0.5 cm (1/8 inch) thick. When delivering a jack or bowl, the player must place his non-leading foot on the mat.

What are the best lawn bowl grip enhancers? Our product list ensures you have the most reliable grip.

Bowlers spend many hours practicing and honing their technique. However, all this work can be undone if you can’t get a good grip on your bowl. Playing during a UK summer often means playing in the rain, which is the worst nightmare for anyone who has problems with slippery bowls.

To counteract this, a bowler has many tools at his disposal. Each one is designed to improve your overall grip and help you deliver your bowl consistently. Here we look at the most popular products available so you can find one that works for you.

So grab it! And let’s begin.

What are grip enhancers?

Grip enhancers are a product that is applied to the bowl or a product that is applied to the fingertips to help you hold the bowl in place. They are often used sparingly and make the bowl feel slightly sticky.

They can come in many forms, from creams and waxes applied to the bowl. Or can be a material or block that you press your fingers into.

Why Use Grip Enhancers?

Good head control starts with a reliable grip. This keeps your hand and fingers relaxed. Relaxed hands are important for a smooth release. Tense fingers are also a cause of bowls wobbling after being released.

Playing in wet conditions can also be difficult. While some moisture is good for making your bowls sticky, excess water makes them slippery and impossible to control consistently.

A good grip enhancer will help with both of these problems. They provide a solid, dependable grip on a dry bowl and remove the slipperiness from a wet one.

The best products to improve grip

Grip-it cloth

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Grip-It is a “sticky cloth” that you carry in your pocket while playing. If you have trouble with your grip, just rub it between your fingers.

Its main advantage is that it is clean. Many other products require you to rub wax onto your shells, which can get anywhere. Unkind!

A bag of Grip-It wipes can be cut into smaller pieces so you only use what you need in a game. The bag as a whole can hold a regular bowler for up to 3 months.

Grip-It is also great for indoor bowls. Many clubs prohibit the use of bowl polishers (some of which are listed below) as they can damage carpet, so this is a great alternative.

Useful in the dry too, gives me confidence that I’m not letting any wood slip so I can focus on direction and power. Amazon verified customer

Grippo

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Grippo is made by Henselite and is currently the most popular bowl polish in the world. With regular use, it can help keep your bowls in good shape and add some stickiness to improve your grip.

We recommend buying Grippo in tubes and not in pots. This allows you to place the product directly onto your bowls. Simply apply a small amount directly to the bowl and then buff into the surface with a cloth.

It is not advisable to use Grippo when playing indoors as it is a polishing product which is banned in many indoor arenas.

Grippo makes a huge difference to my shot delivery when I play as I used to tend to lose control of my shot delivery. Amazon verified customer

Crack-A-Jack Wax

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Crack-A-Jack is another popular bowl polish. Manufactured by Drake’s Pride, it comes in a small yellow tube and can be applied to the bowl with a clean cloth.

Unlike Grippo, Crack-A-Jack only comes in cups, which can cause a bit of a mess when trying to get some onto a cloth. That being said, Crack-A-Jack is ideal for any outdoor bowler. Again, we must note that this is a bowl polish, limited to outdoor use only.

Only a small amount is needed to apply a great protective polish to your bowls and it really helps with the hold. My dad has used other popular bowl polishes but after having this one he says he will only use this one from now on! Amazon verified customer

Grip wax for Bulldog bowls

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These are small blocks that you keep in your pocket while playing. Just soften one in your hands and then roll it between your fingers. This leaves a thin layer over your fingers to grip the bowl.

This product is designed for use in wet weather conditions and will therefore not wash away when you grab the bowl.

I personally use this as a backup to use alongside one of the other options listed above if things get a bit damp. However, it can be used alone when dry if you find it works for you.

Very effective way to support bowls. I find it much better than using a damp cloth. It works in all situations – when your hand gets too dry or too sweaty. Amazon verified customer

alternatives

There are alternatives to the dedicated products. With a little ingenuity, you can get the same benefit but without the price.

saliva

This is an old-school option. Why buy a tube of Grippo when you can just lick your fingers?

However, this should come with a word of warning. Many vegetables are now chemically treated, and licking your fingers after touching a bowl could mean you choke on them. We wouldn’t recommend starting with this method as it can make you quite ill if you’re not careful. Have you been doing this for 20 years? Who are we to stop you now!

Rubber earplugs

I’ve seen this one a few times. If you or a relative work in a noisy environment, you may be familiar with the soft, squishy earplugs employees are given. If you squeeze them and roll them around enough, they turn into a gooey blob that can then be applied to your fingers.

Just keep it in your bag and roll it around before you start delivery.

I hope we have helped clarify the various options available. Try a few and find the one that suits you best.

Do you have a favorite that isn’t listed? Then let us know by sending an email via our contact page.

I know this topic has been beaten to death many times, but I’ve looked at the polish I use on my pickup and it looks like it’s fine to use on bowling balls. It’s Turtle Wax Premium Grade Polishing Compound. It says it has no silicone but nothing about wax.

The back reads: “It is a finely cut blend formulated to remove light swirl marks, minor scratches and light oxidation while restoring color and shine to your car’s finish. It’s formulated with professional grade nanotechnology polishes and lubricating oils to deliver flawless clarity and shine to your car’s finish. Turtle Wax Polishing Compound is silicone free and is safe to use on all clear coats and conventional paints.

This sounds like it’s fine as it won’t damage anything, but I wanted input from more experienced bowlers before trying it out. Please let me know what you can think of. Many Thanks

STAMP BOWLS

A Simple Guide to Current Season 20 22 /202 3 Requirements Since the introduction of the new World Bowls Stamp, there has been a lot of confusion. Below is a simple guide to the current requirements.

First, all composition bowls (i.e. not lignum vitae) must bear a legible stamp of 1985 or later. If you are playing with Lignum Vitae bowls the 1985 relaxation does not apply, they must be stamped every 10 years so you will need to have them stamped once the expiration date is reached. All stamps must be legible.

If you have one of the following stamps, you can compete in club, district, and national competitions until you qualify for the national championship finals. The expiry date of these stamps must be 1985 or later.

All players progressing to the National Championship Finals must have a World Bowls stamp with an expiration date of 2023 until the expiration date, after which you must have your bowls retested

Subsequent semifinals will also be played at National Championships Finals venues, therefore players competing in the Top Club, Mason Trophy, Under 30 Double Rink Triples and Over 60 Double Rink semifinals must have a World Bowls stamp with an expiration date of 202 3 until the expiry of the date.

The new World Bowl stamp is shown below and having this on your bowls will allow you to play in all games including internationals

LICENSED SHELL MANUFACTURERS & TESTERS

A – Thomas Taylor (Bowls) Ltd, 217 Bernard Street, Glasgow G40 3NB

Tel: 0141-554 5255; Fax: 0141-551 0594

Email: www.taylorbowls.com

C – George Mackay, 65 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh, EHI 1NB

Tel: 0131 556 1779 & Mobile 07950 543567

P – Pershore Bowls Centre, Unit 5B&C, Pershore Trading Est, Pershore, WR10 2DD.

Tel/Fax: 01386 552411 Email:

X – Drake’s Pride, 128 Richmond Row, Liverpool L3 3BL

Tel: 0151-2981 355; Fax: 0151-2982 988

Email: www.drakespride.co.uk A – Thomas Taylor (Bowls) Ltd, 217 Bernard Street, Glasgow G40 3NBTel: 0141-554 5255; Fax: 0141-551 0594 Email: [email protected] C – George Mackay, 65 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh, EHI 1NBT Tel: 0131 556 1779 & Mobile 07950 543567P – Pershore Bowls Centre, Unit 5B&C, Pershore Trading Est, Pershore , WR10 2DD. Tel/Fax: 01386 552411 Email: [email protected] X – Drakes Pride, 128 Richmond Row, Liverpool L3 3BLTel: 0151-2981 355; Fax: 0151-2982 988 Email: [email protected]

Crown Green Bowls Buying Guide Part 2

What size crown green trays do I need?

Crown green bowl sizes are based on the weight of the bowl and range from 2 pounds 0 ounces up to 3 pounds depending on the brand, usually in 2 ounce increments (but 9 ounce bowls are fairly common).

When choosing which bowl size to buy, the general consensus is that you should choose the heaviest bowl that you can comfortably handle and roll with. A heavier bowl will generally move farther, but heavier bowls are naturally a larger bowl for comfortable gripping and holding (here the density of the bowl can be considered). The ability to grip the bowl securely and handle it comfortably should be the primary factor when choosing a new set of bowls. We recommend going for the heaviest bowl you can, but don’t compromise on your ability to grab the ball well because of the 2 ounce weight.

High density shells help a lot in bridging the gap between shell grip and shell weight and are a great option for more experienced shell players. However, if you are new to the game, we always recommend that you familiarize yourself with playing with a default density first.

What does 2 full bias mean?

All modern crown green shells are now made with a 2 full preload – the same preload as the preload as the bushing. In earlier years, crown green bowls were made with a different pitch of 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. This is still a common thing to find when looking for used bowls and something to keep in mind if you do.

Bias is simply the natural arc or line that the bowl travels as it rolls along the green. A 2-full bias is now standard for the crown green game and standard with the current crown green bowl manufacturers.

density

Crown Green Bowls come in three densities; Standard, high and low.

Personally, I’ve only ever bowled with high-density skittles. I bought my first pair of shells when I was young so a high density shell ensured I could use a heavier weight and still hold them comfortably.

A higher density shell can weigh the same as a lower density shell but be smaller. The upside is this tends to make it easier to hold and control, giving good accuracy. On a fast green, higher density bowls will pull up faster than fly past the jack, but on slower greens they tend to miss the jack – so require more effort to send these instances. The reverse is true for lower density shells.

Standard density bowls tend to be good all-rounders and work reasonably well on fast or slow greens, requiring less adjustability than higher or lower density bowls. Some bowlers may find that two pairs of bowls – with different densities – is an easier compromise, changing the bowls used depending on the run of the green. This is something I personally wouldn’t recommend as I’ve always felt consistency is key and prefer to make my adjustments based on the conditions of the day.

As with the different weights, it would be wise to try different density bowls before actually considering buying your own bowls – or seeing what other bowlers at your club are using or recommending.

What are standard density bowls?

We typically recommend that new bowlers choose a standard-density bowl when learning to play (unless physical limitations are an issue). As a general rule, standard density bowls are good all-purpose bowls. This means they perform just as well on fast greens as they do on slow ones. Where a bowl can outperform high density on a fast green and low density on a slow green. Some bowlers find it optimal to use a combination of densities during the bowling season.

However, for a beginner, familiarity with the bowl is paramount and we would recommend that they master the feel of a standard bowl on all types of greens rather than juggling the intricacies of working with varying densities from match to match

What are high density shells?

A higher density shell is manufactured to produce a shell that is heavier for its physical size than a standard composition. To give you an example, a high-density bowl that weighs 2 pounds 8 ounces is the same physical size as a standard-density bowl that weighs 2 pounds 6 ounces.

This size/weight variation can be beneficial for a crown green bowler playing on a fast green, as a higher density bowl tends to pull up quicker than a standard bowl – however, the downside is, that they can tend to pull up short on slower greens and therefore require more effort when sending.

A higher density can also be extremely useful for bowlers who may be struggling with hand problems and grip becomes an issue. In this case, using a high density bowl would allow the bowler to maintain bowl weight while increasing their ability to hold and control the bowl due to its smaller physical size.

What are low-density shells?

A low density is basically the opposite of a high density shell. Unlike the high-density bowl, a low-density bowl is made from slightly lighter material than that used to make the standard bowl. The result of this manufacturing process leaves us with a bowl that is roughly the same physical size as a standard 2lb 10oz bowl, but weighs only 2lb 8oz.

Because of this weight/size shift, lower density bowls are better suited to heavier, slower greens that are most common early in the season or on surfaces affected by rain etc. Due to the bowl’s lightness, they tend to ride over the surface more easily and tend to run longer on these types of surfaces compared to standard and extra high density bowls. Obviously on fast greens they tend to overflow a bit. This is the trade-off when choosing a low or high density bowl. For beginners or those new to the crown green game, we recommend that they start with a standard density ball and really get a good feel for the ball.

Next – Part 3 Watch them make the note ?

LAW OF THE GAME OF CROWN GREEN BOWLS

(adopted March 5, 2022)

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DEFINITIONS

D1a The LEADER is the player who has the first attempt at making a mark and who must concede the first ball after each attempt at making a mark.

D1b In pairs, the order of play may not be changed until the end.

D2 A PRECEDING BOWL or JACK is a bowl or jack placed immediately before the bowl in question.

D3 A FORFITED BOWL is a bowl taken from the putting green as a penalty for an infraction under the Rules.

D4 A DEAD BOWL is a bowl that cannot be counted and, if on the green, must be removed from the green or else play will be disrupted.

D5 A END:

begins when the leader delivers the jack,

is completed when the last bowl runs out and

is completed when the score is agreed.

D6 AN INVALID ENDING is an ending intended to be repeated, leaving the footer as close as possible to where it was originally during the invalid ending.

D7 A DEAD END is a pass that is deemed to have ended without a score. The new end should be started from where the jack lay.

D8 LAND: is the term used for the route taken by a jack and then expanded to cover the route that can be taken by either of the shells at that end. It is also the expression used to indicate to other players that they are causing a physical or visual blockage.

D9 JACK-UP: Called by one of the players when a jack other than their own stops running on or adjacent to the land they will or can use to send their bowl/s.

D10 MEASUREMENTS: are measured between the nearest points of the jack and a dish without a liner. On the jack, the adjustable end of an approved measure must be taken. For the footer, the adjustable end of the certified tape is placed in the center of the footer.

D11 A STRIKE is a bowl delivered at such a rate as to attempt to negate the bias.

D12 A mark is made by the leader sending the jack to stay on the green at least 19 yards away.

D13 A MEDICAL DISSPENSATION can only be issued by the referee’s association on a medical certificate. The dispensation letter should be available to the referee upon request prior to the start of a game.

D14 (a) A GAME is a single battle between two/four players.

D14 (b) A GAME is a combination of individual games.

01 EQUIPMENT

1.1 The GREEN must be a grass playing surface or an artificial surface as approved by the BCGBA

1.2 The ENTRANCE, which must be near the center of one side of the playing area, must be clearly marked.

1.3 The circular FOOT PART has a minimum diameter of 125 mm and a maximum of 155 mm.

1.4 STANDARD CARS as defined in Appendix A must be used in all competitions. A jack may only be used to place a mark.

1.5 A BOWL must not weigh less than 907g. (2lb), except that a player with medical evidence of a bone or muscle wasting disease may be granted an exemption. If age is a factor, a player may use a bowl under the 907g limit if the bowl has a minimum profile of 100mm. A bowl must not have a device for changing or adjusting the preload.

1.6 BCGBA approved gauges, mechanical devices and artificial surfaces are listed in the appendices.

02 THE GAME

2.1 The game is played on a putting green by two players, each with two balls, usually taking turns until everyone has played both balls, the aim being to play the balls as close to the jack as possible.

2.2 If more than two players participate in a game, these rules will apply, where applicable.

2.3 Before the game starts, the number of points that must be scored to win the game is determined.

2.4 The first end leader is determined by the organizer of the match.

2.5 At the start of a game, the leader’s foot must be placed within three meters of the entrance to the putting green on either the left or right side and one meter from the edge but no more than two meters from the edge.

2.6 If, in the course of play, it is discovered that a player has substituted a standard jack for a non-standard jack, or has altered the inclination of the jack or ball(s) in any way, or is playing with a ball which has a device for adjusting the bias requires that player to give up the game. The perpetrator(s) receive the minimum number of points and the opponent(s) the maximum number of points.

2.7 If during the course of a game it is found that Jacks do not comply with Appendix A, the games concerned will be voided and restarted with Standard Jacks.

2.8 No player may change jacks or balls during play, except with the approval of the Referee and then only if, in the opinion of the Referee, the jack or balls are so damaged that they are unplayable.

03 THROW

3.1 A bowl must be played at least ten feet from the footer and remain on the putting green to count unless all of the opponent(s) bowl(s) are out of play.

3.2 The winner of an end is the player whose bowl is closest to the jack or, if all of the opponent(s)’ bowls are out of play, has at least one bowl left in play. The winner is the leader and has the first attempt to place a mark on the following end. In pairs, one of the winning pairs at the nearest end may be the leader.

3.3 The winner of each round shall score one point for each ball that is closer to the jack than the opponent’s nearest ball or, if all of the opponent’s bowls are out of play, one point for each bowl still in play.

3.4 The final score must be clearly displayed by the winner to the two judges, except in competitions where an official adjudicator has been appointed for each game and official scoreboards are used. Where there are two markers, they must sit together and match the score cards of every third end and at the end of the game. If the score cannot be agreed upon by the counters or players, a return is made to the end where both scorecards show the agreed score.

04 MAKE A SIGN

4.1 When attempting to make a mark, a player throwing the jack must give the opponent(s) an opportunity to see with what bias he is being delivered and start his run from a point near the watch footer.

4.2 A mark is set when, after bowling, the jack does not leave the green, is not prevented from contacting anything on the rim or in the gutter, or is shown by a certificate upon justifiable objection by surveying measuring at least 19 yards from the footer spaced, with the footer at least 1 meter from the edge.

4.3 If the jack is in any way obstructed in its course or stops on other players’ land, it must be returned under all circumstances. If two jacks are thrown near the same location, the last one stationary must be brought back. The same player must make another attempt to place a mark.

4.4a An appeal to a mark made by the leader can only be made by the leader’s opponent after the first ball has come to rest. If the opponent objects before the leader’s first bowl has come to rest, the leader may return the jack and bowl, if played, to make another attempt at making a mark. Only the opponent can oppose the mark. An opponent who objects to a mark must clearly state that an objection has been raised.

4.4b If, following a complaint about a brand, it is proven by measurement that it is a brand, the jack and bowl remain.

4.5 If the leader fails to place a mark, the leader’s opponent is entitled to place a mark. In pairs, this is the player waiting to follow the leader.

4.6 If the leader does not place a mark, the leader must appeal an opponent’s attempt before delivering the first ball.

4.7 If the opponent then fails to place a mark, the leader alternately has another try and so on until one of them has placed a mark. The original leader who plays the first bowl.

4.8 If, after an attempt to make a mark, the leader is prevented from delivering the first bowl by a ribbon on the putting green while a mark is being measured from another end, or if the first bowl is obstructed, the jack may returned to allow the leader to make another attempt to set a mark.

4.9 The first attempt to place a new mark after a dead end must be made by the same player who placed the mark at the dead end. All dead shells are reinserted for the new ending. Any lost bowls are not reinstated for the replayed end.

4.10 The first attempt to place a new mark after an invalid end must be made by the same player who placed the mark in the invalid end. All dead shells are reinserted for the new ending. Any lost bowls are not reinstated for the replayed end.

05 GAME METHOD

5.1 The foot must not be used at any time if the center is less than one meter from the edge of the putting green.

5.2 An objection to the placement of the foot may be made by the leader’s opponent only after the first bowl has come to rest or if the jack leaves the putting green on the leader’s first attempt to place a mark. If the footer is then found to be incorrectly placed by measurement, the end must be restarted with the correctly placed footer, with the opponent attempting to place the mark, otherwise play continues.

5.3 A player’s foot must be placed on the foot when throwing either the jack or a bowl. A player who puts his right foot on the footboard must play jack and skittles with his right hand, and a player who puts his left foot on the footboard must play jack and skittles with his left hand. Nothing in this law applies to players who suffer a permanent disability of a limb. The player must have a medical clearance.

5.4 A player must bowl with the same hand throughout the game. When a disability or infirmity prevents a player from playing jacks or bowls directly from the hand, a mechanical aid of an association-approved type may be used for assistance.

5.5 Any bowl not played in accordance with Rules 5.3 and 5.4 may be stopped by the umpire and returned for play again. If a player infringes again during the game, the misplayed bowl is forfeited.

5.6 Players must verbally warn their opponent and take every precaution before batting to eliminate the possibility of other players, umpires, measurers or spectators being injured by being hit with a jack or balls. A player receives a warning for the first violation of this rule. For a second offence, the game is awarded to the opponent(s). The perpetrator(s) receive no additional points and the opponent(s) receive the maximum number of points.

5.7 A player may keep the footer until that player’s bowl has stopped rolling. If a player picks up the foot after playing a bowl that must be replayed for any reason, or if the foot is accidentally dislodged during an end, it must be returned to its former position as far as possible.

5.8 When the leader’s first bowl is forfeited, the leader’s remaining bowl is played, followed by the opponent playing two bowls in a row.

5.9 If the leader’s opponent’s first bowl is forfeited, the leader’s remaining bowl is played, followed by the opponent’s last bowl.

5.10 A player may play a bowl to block an opponent’s course, but a bowl may not be placed or played less than ten feet from the footer, otherwise it is a lost bowl.

5.11 If a player is in a prone position and a bowl falls from that player’s hand, even accidentally, and moves forward more than 3 meters from the center of the foot, it is deemed to have been played.

5.12 If a player plays a bowl out of turn, it must be returned in order for it to be played on its proper turn.

5.13 If a player, in turn, delivers another player’s bowl, it is returned to the original owner to play with, with the offender losing a bowl.

5.14 A player must not stand directly behind the target or obstruct the view of an opponent at the end where the target is located.

5.15 After each end is completed, the footer must be placed at the butt by the last player. The footer may only come from the leader of the next pass and before the first attempt to make a mark, anywhere within 1 meter of where the jack lay at the end of the last pass, but at least 1 meter from that spot , to be repositioned edge of the green. The footer may not be moved by either the leader or the opponent after the first attempt to place a mark until the end is complete.

06 RUNNING JACK OR BOWL

6.1 A bowl played while the jack or previous bowl is in motion is forfeited.

6.2 If a running jack or bowl appears in danger of hitting a stationary bowl or jack belonging to another end, that running jack or bowl should be stopped and brought back for a replay.

6.3 If a bowl in progress is obstructed in any way other than by one of the players, it must be played again. If a bowl in progress is obstructed by one of the players, all bowls of the attacker(s) at that end are forfeited.

6.4 A player must not attempt to influence the course of a bowl or pursue it in such a way as to obstruct an opponent’s view. A first offense involving the player’s own bowl will forfeit that bowl. If there is a further violation, the game is awarded to the opponent(s). The perpetrator(s) receive no additional points and the opponent(s) receive the maximum number of points.

6.5 Should a player attempt to interfere with the course of an opponent’s bowl, all bowls of the attacker(s) at that end will be forfeited.

6.6 A bowl played or batted off the putting green or prevented from being bowled by leaning on anything on the rim or in the gutter is a dead bowl.

07 STILL JACK OR BOWL

7.1.a If, as a result of a lawfully played bowl, the jack is disturbed and goes off the green or is prevented from going off by leaning on anything on the rim or in the gutter, that end is dead. If, after a valid mark has been made, the jack leaves the green, the footer should be placed one meter from where the jack left the green, with the same player setting the mark. All dead shells are reinserted for the new ending. Any lost bowls are not reinstated for the replayed end.

7.1.b If the disturbed target contacts a cup or target not belonging to that end, or if it contacts a person on the putting green, the target line will be void.

7.2 If, as a result of a lawfully played bowl, the jack or other bowls are disturbed and come into contact with other bowls belonging to that end, the jack and any bowls so disturbed must remain where they left off.

7.3 If, as a result of a ball being played incorrectly, the jack or a lawful ball already played is disturbed, that jack or those balls must be returned as close as possible to their original positions.

7.4 If the jack or any bowl is moved by another player’s jack or bowl or by any external cause and the players agree on the place of substitution, the final must be continued, otherwise the final is void.

7.5a When a pass is completed, neither the jack nor an allegedly scoring bowl may be moved without the consent of the opponent until the points are tallied and all players are satisfied, otherwise all bowls of the offending player(s) end affected are forfeited.

7.5b When an end is completed, i. H. When all bowls have come to rest, a player may remove his own non-scoring bowl without incurring a penalty.

7.6 Should a player of either end touch or move a stationary jack or bowl before the end is completed, all bowls of the offending player(s) at that end will be forfeited.

08 MEASUREMENTS

8.1 No measurement of an end is allowed until the end is completed.

8.2 When an end is being measured, all players must stand offside and not interfere with the actions of the referee or measurer(s).

8.3 The Referee or Measurers are not permitted to place their thumb or finger on the target board or cup when measuring an end.

8.4 If the displacement of the jack or a bowl is measured, points already awarded will remain. If no points have been awarded after completing all measurements, the end is over. If either the jack or a ball being measured is moved by a player, that player loses that point.

8.5 If a ball touches either the target board or another ball and must be removed so that nothing comes between the target board and the ball being measured, it must be removed by the Referee and the measurement made at that distance.

09 REFEREES, KNIVES AND PLAYERS

9.1 Referees are instructed to insist that games are played in strict accordance with the Laws of the Game.

9.2 No person other than the players and the umpire are allowed on the putting green (except the measurers when their services are required). Nothing in this statute applies to a severely disabled person who requires assistance on the green.

9.3 If a player refuses or is unable to continue after a game has started, the referee will decide the disputed point.

9.4 Should a player continue to refuse to continue the game, that player loses the game. The perpetrator(s) receive no additional points and the opponent(s) receive the maximum number of points.

9.5 If a player leaves the putting green without informing the opponent and without obtaining the referee’s permission, that player loses the game. The perpetrator(s) receive no additional points and the opponent(s) receive the maximum number of points.

9.6 If an incident requires a player to stop play or leave the putting green and is unable to resume play before the end of the game (or that round in a competition), the game will be awarded to the opponent(s). . The score of the player who left the green remains unchanged and the opponent gets the maximum score.

9.7 In the event of a willful violation of the Laws of the Game or unfair play or unsportsmanlike conduct, the referee may caution or order the offending player(s) or spectator(s) to withdraw from play or the area around the putting green. No substitutes are allowed for players and the game is awarded to the opponent(s). The perpetrator or perpetrators receive the minimum number of points and the opponents receive the maximum number of points.

9.8 A player receiving a second verbal warning loses the game. The perpetrator(s) receive no additional points and the opponent(s) receive the maximum number of points.

9.9 If, during the course of a match, it becomes so dark that the target can no longer be seen clearly from the footer, the player may request that the target be illuminated or appeal to the referee, whose decision is final, to end the match is interrupted.

9.10 In the event of a suspension under Rule 9.9 or other unforeseen circumstances, the points scored by each player shall stand and the Jack’s position shall be marked. Ends should be closed whenever possible. Play must be resumed at an agreed point as close as possible to where the jack lay at the last end played.

10 ELECTRONIC DEVICES, SMOKING AND SHOES

10.1 Electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers, smart watches, etc. in active mode are not allowed on the putting green. If a player fails to do so, that player loses the game. The perpetrator(s) receive no additional points and the opponent(s) receive the maximum number of points.

10.2 Smoking: Smoking, vaping and the use of electronic cigarettes is not permitted while attending the Crown Green Bowls Game. The offending player(s) receive no further score and the opponent(s) receive the maximum score.

10.3 Footwear: Sturdy, block-heeled or open-toe footwear shall not be worn on the putting green in matches played under the jurisdiction of the Association. The offending player(s) receive no further score and the opponent(s) receive the maximum score.

11 DISPUTES NOT PROVIDED BY LAW

11.1 Any disputes arising that are not provided for in the foregoing rules will be decided by the Arbitrator, whose decision will be final.

12 LAW CHANGES

12.1 The Rules of the Game and their interpretation are the copywrite of the British Crown Green Bowling Association and their decisions are not subject to appeal in court or otherwise.

12.2 None of these Acts may be changed except as provided in Articles 16 and 17 of the Association for Changing Rules and Regulations.

12.3 Changes to the Laws of the Game can only be proposed every three years, except at an Extraordinary General Meeting.

APPENDIX A – A STANDARD JACK

1. The game is played with standard jacks of 2 full bias as approved by the British Crown Green Bowling Association.

Jacks manufactured after March 1, 2004 must be black or yellow. They are said to weigh 666 grams plus or minus 10 grams. The width is 90.5mm plus or minus 0.5mm. The height must be 98mm plus or minus 0.5mm.

A circle must be engraved on both sides, the outer edge of which must have a diameter of 20 mm plus or minus 1 mm. On the unbiased side are three solidly inserted dots, white for black jacks and black for yellow jacks. These dots must be 6mm in diameter and equidistant within a 19mm radius plus or minus 1mm from the center of the engraved circle to the center of the dots inserted. The engraved circles shall be colored in accordance with the inserted points.

All new standard jacks bear the name of the manufacturer on the sloping side. They are BCGBA branded and the official examiner’s identification letter is inserted into the recognized kidney-shaped stamp. Standard sockets must not be numbered or labeled. Proof of ownership must be provided on the impartial side. Manufacturers are permitted to use their own distinctive configuration of handle markings, the patterns of which must be registered with the BCGBA.

2 All jacks submitted for testing must comply with the March 1, 2004 requirements. If black in color, white mounts and spots, if white or yellow color, black mounts and spots. Instead of mounts, compound bushings may have engraved circles roughly the diameter of the mounts or dots, filled in the appropriate color.

3 New and renewed jacks must be stamped consecutively with the year of expiry, with the year being calculated from January 1st to December 31st. All jacks must be re-tested at intervals not exceeding seven years. Jacks manufactured before 2004 must meet the 2004 requirements.

4 Jacks may not be stamped more than four times. The first three, in date order, must be done on the biased side, while the fourth and last is done on the unbiased side. The expiration date on this stamp indicates the year after which the jack is no longer legal.

ADDENDUM

All jacks submitted for refurbishment must be re-inspected and re-stamped upon completion of the work.

MANUFACTURERS & TESTERS

The following companies are the officially appointed and only recognized Standard Jack Makers and Bias Testers of the British Crown Bowling Association.

Letter A Thomas Taylor (Bowls) Ltd, Glasgow

Letter X E.A. Clare & Son Ltd., Liverpool

Letter F 2 Up Crown Green Bowls

Letter H Metrolux by Warrington (Bowls)

Letter C Premier Bowls, Stockport

TESTERS ONLY

Letter D Pershore Bowls Center

Letter S Stevens Bowls, Stafford

APPENDIX B – APPROVED ACTIONS

The following devices are approved by the BCGBA as measuring devices for use under the Rules of the Game.

1 A tape measure or other certified metric measure is at least 19 meters long

2 Crown Green metal tape measure

3 Any kind of measuring tape.

4 Any telescopic dimension

5 calipers

6 feeler gauges

7 BOWLSLINE string gauge

8 BOWLSLINE laser measurement

APPENDIX C – PERMITTED MECHANICAL EQUIPMENT

The following devices are approved by the BCGBA as mechanical devices for use under the Rules of the Game.

1 696 DHB hacksaw bowling arm

2 The bowling arm

3 UBI Bowls Launchers

4 Bradshaw’s Bowls Buggy (with greenkeeper/home official approval)

5 Ordinary Wheelchair (If used on an artificial surface and with greenkeeper/home official approval)

6 Bowls Royce Bowls Wheelchair (with greenkeeper/home official approval)

7 Para Handy wheelchair (with greenkeeper/home official approval)

8 Chariot Bowls wheelchair (with greenkeeper/home official approval)

APPENDIX D – AUTHORIZED ARTIFICIAL SURFACES