Crown Green Bowls Tips? Best 268 Answer

When choosing a new set of shells, it can be difficult to learn all the different terminology and the difference between different specifications. This is especially true for anything to do with the weight and size of the bowl.

Sizes are pretty obvious, especially once you know what size you usually want to use. However, choosing different weights can be tricky – usually in the form of heavy vs medium.

What do these terms mean? And how does that affect your game? Let’s take a closer look.

What is the difference between heavy and medium?

The only difference between a “heavy” and “medium” bowl is the weight of the bowl itself.

The weight difference between the two options is in the range of 40-60 grams – the value differs depending on the size of the bowl (the difference is smaller for smaller bowls) and the manufacturer.

Different manufacturers have different ideas about what “heavy” and “medium” mean, as there is no standard phrase.

Are medium shells smaller than heavy shells?

No, a medium bowl and a heavy bowl always have the same dimensions. For example, a size 4 “medium” has the same width and diameter as a “heavy” size 4.

The purpose of the different weight options is to allow bowlers more choice in bowl selection.

Pros and cons of hard vs medium

Much of the decision-making between hard and medium will just come down to personal preference – however, there are some basic pros and cons you should know before making your choice.

Let’s take a look at the arguments for each.

For medium

Buying a set of “medium” shells is a little trivial, but there are good reasons for doing so. Here are some reasons you might consider a set:

Medium shells offer better control – medium shells are easier to hold and grip. This is great if you’re having trouble holding onto your bowl. Medium bowls are cheaper – while this isn’t always true, on average, medium bowls can be bought second-hand for less than heavy bowls. The demand for them is so much less that you can get a bargain

For heavy

I’ve mentioned in several articles that “heavier is usually better. There are a few reasons for this:

Heavier bowls move further – the heavier the bowl, the further it moves with the same force. This is great for heavy and wet greens as you don’t have to push as hard. Heavier bowls are harder to move – there’s nothing worse than getting your shot on the target just to knock them over. The heavier your bowl, the more weight your opponent has to use to move it. This makes a much riskier shot for them. They are easier to buy – medium weight bowls are very much out of style. Most manufacturers don’t make intermediate sizes, so if you want a new set of shells you’ll have to go for a heavy weight

Should I use heavy or medium-weight bowls?

I would always recommend a set of heavy shells. Overall, heavy shells offer better weight control and make it easier to keep your shells in mind.

I would only recommend a set of medium bowls if:

You’re on a tight budget – medium bowls are cheaper than heavy ones, on average. You’re using a size 5 or larger and want a little more control – if you’re using a large bowl you won’t miss much of the weight as they are already quite heavy. The Medium option can give you a little extra control. They’re just starting out and they’re all you’ve got – you won’t be at a massive disadvantage, and a range of media will be more than enough to enjoy the game

Conclusion

In summary, the difference between medium and heavy shells is weight.

The general advice is to use a set of heavy shells whenever possible, as they make it easier to play with weighted shots and harder to move once in play.

A set of medium bowls is fine if you must use a set, so don’t despair if you don’t have a choice.

As fast bowlers, we should always ask ourselves how we can improve our ability to bowl a consistent line and distance. Being able to throw controlled and accurate deliveries is arguably the most important skill a fast bowler can possess and if you can teach yourself to be accurate then you will definitely be a dangerous bowler to beat to beat! Some of the most successful fast bowlers of all time were actually not that fast. Instead, it was their pinpoint accuracy that made them deadly! Guys like Glenn McGrath from Australia and Shaun Pollock from South Africa are two that immediately come to mind. Almost every ball they rolled was in a dangerous area, testing the batsman’s judgment and always threatening the outside edge and outside stump. Being able to throw a perfect line and distance allowed these two bowlers to combine for 1778 international wickets which is insane!! In this post, I’ll give you a few tips that I hope will help you follow their lead…

So how can you improve your line and length? If I were you, I would try to do the following things:

target practice

Make sure you practice regularly

Develop a smooth and repeatable run-up

Focus on one area of ​​the field as you run into the bowl

Use your front arm to assist your aim

Learn to control your wrist position

Focus on your fitness

I’m going to go into each of these tips in more detail now! But first, if you’re not 100% sure what “line and length” actually means, check out one of my other posts by clicking here! It should tell you everything you need to know!

target practice

One of the best ways to improve your ability to throw a consistent line and distance is to do some target practice. These are so easy to set up and you can do them at home or during your club training sessions! There’s really no excuse not to do these types of drills if you’re a fast bowler looking to improve your accuracy.

The things you will need for this exercise are as follows:

A cricket ball (you can also use a tennis ball or another cricket ball substitute like a windball) bowling spot! – You need enough space to accommodate your entire bowling run plus the length of a cricket field (22 metres). The type of surface you’re bowling on (e.g. grass or concrete) doesn’t matter as long as you have the right amount of space available! A target to aim for – I usually use a coin for this. The coin should be placed on an area of ​​the board that you are trying to hit when bowling. You can also use a bit of fabric like a handkerchief or other small item! A set of stumps – These aren’t strictly necessary, but I like to use them during my target practice sessions! It’s always useful to see where you’re bowling in relation to the batsman’s stumps! I bought a set of spring loaded stumps so I can use them on a variety of different surfaces! They are durable, easy to move, can be used on any flat surface and don’t need to be stuck into the ground! If you are interested, you can check the price here on Amazon!

Once you have the equipment mentioned above, the exercise is really easy. Normally I would start by placing the coin at a length outside the stumps, about 20-25 feet from the stumps. This is an area that all fast bowlers should be able to hit regularly! I would then toss 30 balls and try to hit the coin with each one. If I could get close to the coin (within 10 centimeters of it) I would mark that as a successful delivery! If I was further away I would mark it as unsuccessful. This is great practice as you really need to focus on what you are trying to achieve and where you are trying to place the ball. The moment you stop focusing on hitting that spot on the pitch and start going out of the zone, you’re going to have a harder time maintaining your accuracy!

Plus, of course, you don’t have to put the coin in the same spot every time! Sometimes you could push it a little fuller and further, trying to swing the ball a bit to get it moving toward the coin. You can also place it where the batter’s feet would be and try to perfect your York delivery! (Click here if you want to read my post on how to roll the perfect Yorker!).

If you can repeat these types of exercises once or twice a week, or incorporate them into all of your practice sessions, you should see your percentage of successful deliveries increase. This will make you a much more accurate bowler!

Make sure you practice regularly

This is the simplest but most important tip for improving your line and distance as a fast bowler. You have to make sure you get enough practice. Nobody has ever improved their fast bowling skills by sitting still!

In my opinion you want to make sure you practice your bowling more than once a week. If you train weekly with your cricket club, don’t let this be the only time you pick up a cricket ball each week! Find a way to practice at home too!

Fast bowling is all about rhythm. The longer you go between your bowling sessions, the harder it gets to get back into rhythm! The more we expose our bodies to the process of fast bowling, the more natural it will feel to us. This results in improvements in your ability to roll an accurate line and length. The more times you can land the ball at that good distance in practice, the easier it will be for you to repeat it during a game. With practice you will know exactly when to let go of the ball so that it lands where you want it to go. Practicing more can almost never be a bad thing!

That one time practice a lot more can be dangerous if you bowl so much it leads to an injury! Due to the stress we put on our bodies, fast bowlers are very prone to injury and bowling too much in a given period of time can increase the risk even further! Luckily, the ECB came up with a little rule that tells how much bowlers should bowl. It’s called the 7/4/2 rule and is as follows:

“In a 7-day period, a fast bowler should not bowl more than 4 total days during that period. You should also only bowl a maximum of 2 days in a row.

If you stick to this guideline, you should make sure you don’t bowl too much and put unnecessary strain on your body!

Develop a smooth and repeatable run-up

Getting the bowlers up to speed is one of the most important parts of bowling action. When the bowler has problems with his run-up, it inevitably affects his ability to bowl accurately and at high speed. One of your main goals as a fast bowler should be to make your run-up as consistent as possible. If we can make sure our approach to the crease doesn’t change from one ball to the next, then that’s a good base from which to build our accuracy. We know we’re going to put our bodies in the same position every time!

There are a few simple principles I like to focus on when it comes to run-ups and I’ll outline them here:

Make sure your inrun is measured effectively – In practice, you should have found what exactly is the right length for you. This is usually measured in increments from the popping crease, and the bowler then puts down or scratches a mark in the field to remind himself where to start the run-up. This measurement is important to ensure we start our run-up from the same spot every time we bowl! Starting at the same point means we’ll end up at the same point if our speed and stride stay the same, which is a good place to start if you’re looking to improve your accuracy.

– In practice, you should have found out exactly what the right inrun length is for you. This is usually measured in increments from the popping crease, and the bowler then puts down or scratches a mark in the field to remind himself where to start the run-up. This measurement is important to ensure we start our run-up from the same spot every time we bowl! Starting at the same point means we’ll end up at the same point if our speed and stride stay the same, which is a good place to start if you’re looking to improve your accuracy. Approach the crease at a nice, steady pace – The run-up is all about building the momentum we need to get to the ball, so you’ll want to build up a decent pace on the run-in. It’s not necessary to sprint towards the crease as it will burn up too much energy, but you certainly don’t want to move too slowly. My run-up stays at a fairly constant speed the entire time, but some bowlers like to start slower and build up a faster pace as they get closer to delivering the ball. Find a speed that works for you!

– The run-up is all about building the momentum we need to get on the ball, so you should build up a decent pace on the run-in. It’s not necessary to sprint towards the circle line as it will use up too much energy, but you definitely don’t want to be moving too slowly. My run-up stays at a fairly constant speed the entire time, but some bowlers like to start slower and build up a faster pace as they get closer to delivering the ball. Find a speed that works for you! Keep your stride lengths consistent – ​​I mentioned this before, but once you have an inrun length that works for you, you need to keep your stride lengths consistent as you approach the crease. Don’t take random short or long steps as they can throw off the rhythm of your approach and make you worry about throwing a no ball, etc. Worrying about such things can distract you from focusing on yourself to focus on where you are wanting to bowl!

– I mentioned this before, but once you have an inrun length that works for you, you need to keep the lengths of your stride consistent as you approach the crease. Don’t take random short or long steps as they can throw off the rhythm of your approach and make you worry about throwing a no ball, etc. Worrying about such things can distract you from focusing on yourself to focus on where you are wanting to bowl! Build momentum toward your goal – For fast bowlers, it’s important that we focus all of our energies on our goal. You don’t want to swerve to one side or wave your arms from left to right as you ramp up. Approach the wicket in a straight line, pumping your arms and legs up and down linearly.

– It is important for fast bowlers that we focus all our energy on our goal. You don’t want to swerve to one side or wave your arms from left to right as you ramp up. Approach the wicket in a straight line, pumping your arms and legs up and down linearly. Don’t overstretch during your throwing stride – Stretching too much while throwing the ball can cause your throwing motions to lose a lot of their accuracy. It will often mean playing a completely different length than you intended! To avoid overstretching, make sure your run-up is properly measured. Work on your stamina too! Getting tired can cause you to overexert yourself and is one of the main reasons some bowlers lose accuracy when going through an inning

You should practice your approach a lot! This will help ensure that it is ingrained in your muscle memory through repetition. During a game you don’t want to think about where your front foot lands when you deliver the ball or anything like that. Instead, you want to be sure that the run-up you mark will get you exactly where you need to be and not put you in danger of bowling a no ball! Thinking about where our foot will land as we approach the crease can take our focus off the ball we’re trying to throw, which is never a good thing for a fast bowler.

If you want more of my recommendations for run ups for fast bowlers I would recommend reading the post I wrote about it by clicking here! In this post, I’ll walk you through most of the common questions bowlers have when contemplating their start-up and try to give you some practical solutions.

Focus on one area of ​​the field as you run into the bowl

Some bowlers stare at the area of ​​the court they want to hit as they walk in to bowl. This technique has always worked for me and helped me be much more accurate. It makes sense to look at the target you are aiming at! I stared at that spot on the pitch from the start of my run to the point I let go of the ball. This helped me focus a lot more on the ball I wanted to bowl.

Different bowlers have different habits. Some like to focus on the shot they want the batsman to play. For example, if the bowler walks in and imagines the batsman playing a cover drive, that will help him pitch the ball into the area that would force the batsman to play that shot.

Personally, I would always recommend focusing on the part of the pitch where you want the ball to bounce. It really helped me and if you’re looking to improve your accuracy, I think it might help you too!

Use your front arm to assist your aim

Another great technique one of my coaches taught me was to use my forearm as a guide to where I wanted the ball to go. This technique doesn’t really help you get the right length in your throw, but it will definitely help you roll the right line!

Basically, this technique relies on making sure that when you pass the ball, you’re pointing your front elbow in the direction you want the ball to go. All fast bowlers should have a point in their action where they raise their forearm towards their head. The front arm is then pulled down forcefully just before the front foot lands on the crease and the bowling arm comes over to release the ball. When our front arm is pointing at the line we want to bowl, the thought is that the bowling arm will also follow the same path and bring the ball to the line we want!

Try it out in practice and see if it affects your ability to cast a consistent line! The first few times you try it you really have to think about it because it might not feel natural. But if you stick to this technique and use it in your exercise sessions at least a few times a week, it will start to feel more normal!

Learn to control your wrist position

Your wrist position also has an impact on your ability to cast consistent lines and lengths. Learning how to control and be aware of our wrist is one of the key aspects of becoming a more accurate bowler.

When I first started bowling, my goal was to keep my wrist in a central position. Allowing my wrist to relax would often cause me to lose that central position, causing me to bowl less accurately. When the wrist is in the center position, it is directly behind the ball. This causes the ball to come out nice and straight, often with a good seam position. When the wrist is off-center, it is no longer fully behind the ball as we move it toward the batsman, which can cause us to lose our line. The difference between a central (left) and an off-center (right) wrist position can be seen in the diagram below!

The middle wrist position on the left, the off-center position on the right

To make sure I locked my wrist in the middle, I really focused on keeping it in that position as I ran into the bowl. As I stood at the end of my run, there was always a point where I would get my wrist into that locked position, and I would make sure not to let go of it throughout my run until the ball left my hand.

It also helped me to visualize that there is a metal rod attached to both my elbow and the tip of my middle finger. Imagining this has really helped me keep my wrist and forearm well aligned.

Some bowlers find this locked wrist position very easy to adjust. It was a bit more difficult for me and I had to make sure I was holding it in place throughout my run-up to make sure I would remember to hold it in that position when releasing the ball.

If you think this might be a problem for you, have a coach or family member/friend tape you from behind bowling. Then you can check what position you put your wrist in regularly and see if you want to make changes!

Focus on your fitness

This is a general cricket tip, but it definitely applies to your ability to consistently throw line and distance! As I briefly mentioned, tiring very quickly can cause you to lose form during your run-up and bowling. This could cause you to overstretch during delivery, fall off easily, or not approach the crease as quickly as normal. All of these things can affect the line and distance we bowl!

To maintain your bowling fitness, I recommend two workouts per week bowling like you’re playing a game. There’s no better way to build bowling fitness than to actually bowl! Personally, I’ve always liked bowling at least 30 deliveries at least 2 days a week. However, my ideal training session would be me bowling a full 10-over spell (60 deliveries) with a short pause in the middle. In my opinion you should always try to make your workouts harder than the games you play in! Bowling 10 overs straight with a brief pause in the middle is probably a more intense spell than you’re likely to get in most limited overs matches. In these matches, fast bowlers often bowl 5 overs, then take a long rest before returning to bowl a 3 over spell, followed by another break and their final 2 overs!

Aside from actual bowling, to improve your fitness, you can do some standard cardio workouts. I’ve always found running and cycling great for maintaining fitness during the cricket off-season!

Conclusion

So, here are my tips that will help you improve your line and length! Let me know if any of these work for you, or if you feel like I’ve missed some!

It really comes down to practice at the end of the day. You have to bowl regularly to get better. Those bowlers who only wait until game time to bowl are unlikely to make it to the pinnacle of cricket! Dedicate yourself to improvement, make an effort and you will improve quickly!

One thing to remember is to practice both left and right handed bowling! Since there are more right-handed batsmen in cricket, we can get used to bowling them during practice sessions. Then, when we face a left-handed batsman, we may have trouble being that accurate because of the change in angle! Make sure you include left-handed bowling in your exercise routine! You don’t want to be caught off guard when you come to a game and a skilled left-hander strikes! The same applies to bowling for the wicket. There may be times when in a game you want to go around the wicket to gain an advantage and this can result in a dramatic change in the angles at which we must bowl! Be sure to practice this too!

Also, practice getting the line and length of your variations just right! Modern fast bowlers need to be able to bowl accurate yorkers, slower balls and bouncers to keep batsmen at bay. I linked earlier to my post on bowling the perfect Yorker, but in addition to that I also wrote a post on all the different types of slower balls in the game of cricket! This post has all the information you need about slower balls along with details on how to throw each of them! Click here if you want to take a look!

Lawn trays can last for several decades as long as they are properly cared for. In this guide, we cover the most common bowl care questions that we get asked on a regular basis.

Lawn trays can last for several decades as long as they are properly cared for. In this guide, we cover the most common bowl care questions that we get asked on a regular basis. If you follow the instructions and steps here, you can enjoy your lawn trays for many years to come.

How to clean lawn bowls

Regularly cleaning lawn trays will help keep them working well. Over time, dirt, grime, and high-grip applications can cause your lawn trays to become difficult to grip. We recommend washing your lawn trays every 3 months.

For cleaning your lawn bowls

Soak the shells in hot, soapy water

Use a toothpick to clean the grooves and handles

Wash again in clean water to remove excess residue

Dry with a microfiber cloth

Give your bowls the finishing touch with a special bowl polish or with a polishing sleeve

How to remove scratches

Scuffs and scratches can be frustrating, but they don’t affect the bowl’s performance. They can occur in many ways during normal play – such as banging bowls together or hitting wooden planks in the ditches.

If scuffs are annoying, try the following:

First, try buffing the bowl with a special lawn bowl polish. This can sometimes be enough to remove minor marks

If it’s still there, try a ball of fine steel wool. Gently rub the wool across the mark. Don’t worry about further damaging the bowl, the fine steel wool shouldn’t cause any further scratches. After a short while, wash the shells and give them a finishing touch

There are specialist companies that can remove scuffs, but it probably won’t be worth it as bowls always get stained!

Why polish lawn shells?

There are many reasons why you should polish your lawn bowls regularly. The main reason is that it protects the surface of the bowl itself. Similar to a protective layer, bowl polish can protect against future scratches and scuffs while removing minor scrapes and stains.

Shell polish is often used as a grip enhancer. Bowl polishes leave a sticky feel on the bowl which is ideal for most bowlers and allows them to control the bowl during their throwing technique.

The only reason not to polish your bowls is if you play indoor bowls and a club in your area specifically prohibits its use. Many indoor bowling clubs dislike bowls polish as it can leave marks on the carpet that can be detrimental to its longevity.

Can you use furniture polish on lawn bowls?

While using furniture polish will not damage your lawn bowls, it will not achieve the same results as using a specialty lawn bowl polish.

What color can I use for lawn shells?

A quality enamel paint can be used on lawn trays. The color is only used during the production process on the grips, rings and the emblems. The rest of the shell is colored by the compound used to create the body of the shell itself. Therefore, it is not recommended to paint the surface of a lawn bowl.

Can I repaint my lawn shells?

It is possible to repaint lawn bowls, however we would not recommend doing this yourself. Bowl change laws are ambiguous and you may be turned away by stricter clubs.

The question remains whether the painting is done to a standard where the shells remain an “identical set” and whether the color alters the bias in any way. This can apply to any livery change – be it a complete repaint of the entire shell or just the handles or rings

There are lawn bowl renovation companies that are authorized to make these changes if you wish to spruce up your old set of bowls and we would recommend finding one in your area if you wish to do so.

Have your lawn shells stamped

It may not always be necessary to have your lawn bowls stamped, especially if you play at club level. However, the stamping process ensures your bowls are in good condition and ensures the entire set is standard.

The stamping process checks for marks or wear that affect the performance of each shell. After the process, you can be sure that all four shells are behaving correctly.

Learn more about the stamping process and its benefits below.

How to store lawn trays

Lawn bowls are best stored in a bowl bag. This is a small stretcher with four pockets – one for each bowl. This will prevent the shells from getting damaged which would cause them to bang together

When not playing or during the off-season, it is best to store your lawn bowls in a cool, dry place. Avoid humid or fluctuating environments.

A cupboard under the stairs or a garage is ideal. Avoid places like the attic or garden shed.

FAQ – Select shells

The advice on this page is designed to help people whether they buy from our store or not – we just want to help people in a friendly way. However, the advice on this page is not necessarily the best guide for all people in all situations and we cannot be held responsible for any actions you take as a result of following the advice on this page.

Regardless of whether you choose lawn bowls or indoor bowls, most people these days prefer “grippy” bowls, and medium weight is the default for lawn bowls. Black is by far the most popular color.

What size lawn tray should I buy?

The size is the hardest to guess if you don’t know as it is a personal matter relating to the size of the bowler’s hands. However, we can give you some rules of thumb, namely:

Ladies tend to buy size 00 – 3.

Men tend to buy size 3 – 6.

The most popular sizes are 1 2 3 & 4.

An average gentleman will probably find a size 3 or 4 to fit. An average lady usually chooses size 1 or 2.

Size 00 is for the smallest of women’s hands.

Sizes and Weights of Drake’s Pride Professional Bowls – Metric

Size 00 0 1 2 3 4 5 Diameter (mm) 116 118 121 122.5 124 125.5 127 Medium Weight (grams) 1190 1220 1300 1350 1400 1460 1520 Heavy Weight (grams) 1215 1280 1350 1401 50.50

Sizes and Weights of Drake’s Pride Professional Bowls – Imperial

Size 00 0 1 2 3 4 5 Diameter (inches) 4 9/16 4 11/16 4 3/4 4 13/16 4 7/8 4 15/16 5 Average Weight (lbs-ozs) 2-09 2-11 2-13 1/4 2-15 3/4 3-1 1/2 3-3 3/4 3-5 3/4 Heavyweight (lbs-ozs) 2-10 1/2 2-13 3/4 2 – 15 3/4 3-1 1/2 3-3 1/2 3-5 1/4 3-7 1/4

What weight of Crown Green Bowls should I buy?

A typical size for a lady is 2lb 4oz; maybe 2lb 6oz.

A typical size for a gentleman is 2lb 8oz; maybe 2lb 10oz.

Of course, this is only an average value and is also influenced by personal preferences and the size of the hands. In general, smaller individuals prefer a lighter shell; taller people prefer a heavier bowl.

What type of lawn trays should I buy?

The Professional is the standard range bowl from Drake’s Pride. It has a moderate tilt that is suitable for outdoor, indoor, and even short-mat bowls.

The Advantage is a special indoor bowl with a reduced camber that was specially developed for narrow lanes.

The Jazz bowl is the Drakes Pride bowl for dedicated British outdoor lawns. With its added tilt, it’s also popular with many short mat bowlers.

Playing boules is difficult enough at the best of times, but throw in a strong wind and you’ll find it gets much, much more difficult! Here are some great hints and tips to help you play better in windy conditions.

Playing bocce ball is a great excuse to get outside and enjoy some sun. Nothing beats going outside in good company and enjoying a game in peaceful conditions.

However, not many of us enjoy playing in the cold and windy weather we often face. Not only can it be miserable to play in, but the wind will ravage your game. In this article, I’ll help guide you through the key issues of playing in high winds and how best to combat the conditions.

Problems playing in the wind

Playing in windy conditions is a concern as this is another factor that affects the line and weight of your bowl, as well as your body as you progress through your throwing action. Let’s take a closer look at these

#1 It affects the path of the bowl

Much like varying grass conditions will affect the path of your bowl, so will the wind.

If it’s headwind, you’ll find your bowl pulls up briefly and the opposite is true in the other direction.

A cross wind affects the line of the bowl as it is much more difficult for the bowl to turn into the wind. Conversely, it rotates more when “pushed” by the wind when the bias is downwind.

#2 It affects the body when you hand the bowl down

The best delivery techniques are those that are repeatable. The problem many bowlers face is that high winds throw them off balance – making that elusive repeatability much harder to find.

This is especially true for those adopting a more upright stance early in their delivery, as this results in a much higher center of gravity.

#3 It affects your shooting judgment

The key to consistent line and distance is using each shot to increase your knowledge of how to play the green.

This becomes more difficult when the wind blows in gusts. If you deliver the bowl between gusts, it will move much more naturally than if delivered directly during a gust.

This makes it harder to make adjustments and read the green and causes bowlers to question themselves.

Tips for playing lawn bowls in windy conditions

It helps to just be aware of the issues you’ll face in windy conditions, but here are a handful of other tips to help you along.

#1 Wait for gaps in the wind

If you find that the wind blows intermittently, you should wait in your delivery stance on the mat until the wind dies down. This will help you as you will find that the conditions you are bowling in remain constant.

This is probably not the best solution as you might find that the wind picks up again the moment the bowl leaves your hand. Also, you may be thinking more about the wind than the shot you are about to play.

This is best when the wind is less frequent and the intervals between gusts are longer. Probably one to avoid when playing with those who are impatient!

#2 Don’t chase a line or weight

It’s important to just be aware that the wind plays a role in the shots you play. It’s important to get a rough idea of ​​the line and weight, and then not obsess over discrepancies in your shots.

Keep an eye on other players, especially those you know have excellent line and weight control. When you see they’re struggling, it’s easier to relax about similar issues.

#3 Keep bushings short

The key to keeping the effects of the wind to a minimum is to reduce the time the bowl is moving. So there’s a good argument for keeping jacks short.

If you keep the ends short, you’ll find that the wind has less of an impact on the shots you play, as they complete their journey sooner (less time to affect the bowl) and generally have a narrower line (causing line deviation are less obvious). ).

#4 Play aggressively

Another way to reduce the effects of strong winds is to play more aggressively.

More aggressive shots – like weighted shots and drives – flex less and are therefore less affected by the wind

This is great for backend players but hardly an option for leads as the tie is always the right shot to play.

Conclusion

Playing in the wind is difficult. It affects your line and length, but if I could give one top tip, it would be “don’t let it get to your head.”

Thinking too much about the effects of wind doing more harm than good

As with most things in bowls, it’s important to stay calm and relaxed.

Which activities you want to participate in depends on your personal preferences. So if you decide to join the Crown Green Game, you might as well try to make the most of it. This is a sport played outdoors on a site known as a bowling green.

The best brands from Crown Green Bowl

The Best Crown Green Bowl Brands of 2022 are:

Thomas Taylor Crown Green bowls

Drake’s pride

Henselite Crown Green shells

game goal

The point of the game is to roll a set of two cups towards a smaller cup called the jack. Your own bowls should end closer to the jack than your opponent’s bowls.

How best to play modern Crown Green Bowls

Not so long ago, Kronengrün players only played with wooden bowls. Today, the modern crown green bowls are made from a special plastic composite material. Although the material is the same as the flat green bowls, crown bowls are smaller and not as heavy.

Unlike lawn green bowls, which are played on flat rinks, crown greens are played with a crown/mound portion that affects the way bowls roll.

height and weight

The best way to play is to choose the appropriate crown green cup sizes, as no two cups are the same physical size. The shells are not the same weight, so put more effort into choosing the most comfortable crown green shell weight. You should not choose the heaviest bowl, as heavier bowls tend to be larger and you may not be comfortable holding the bowl in your hand.

The best way to hold bowls

The typical size of a crown green shell starts at 2 lbs, up to 2 lbs 12 oz. The best way to hold the bowl is to rock it in your hand so the bowl rolls out of your hand properly. Hold it so that it is pointing in the direction you want it to move.

shell density

Crown Green bowlers can choose from standard density bowls, high density bowls and low density bowls. Which high density crown green trays you choose will depend on the flat green. Whether you’re using used shells or new shells, make sure you choose the right density.

Standard density trays

Standard density bowls tend to work well on both fast and slow greens and are easily adjustable. The standard density bowl has no maintenance costs and is best for beginners.

High Density Shells

The higher density shells have a denser plastic, which reduces the shell’s hand size for a given weight. It’s easier to control and hold a high-density bowl because it’s smaller. These bowls will pull up quicker on a fast green instead of simply flying past the target, but will come close to the target when used on slower greens.

Low density shell

Lower density shells are made of either wood or plastic. The naturally produced wood shells are not as delicate as standard density shells. The physical size of the bowl is larger for a given weight, making it ideal for slow or heavy greens.

However, the bowl feels bigger in the hand and can run continuously on a fast green. Consequently, beginners have trouble controlling these shells due to their endurance properties.

Pot selection – best crown green pots

If you are ready to make the most of this game, you can join some of your local clubs like: B. the Bredon Bowling Club, with some suitable raised surfaces. When it comes to choosing a bowl brand, the range of brands is wide, ranging from Thomas Taylor to Drake’s Pride.

You’ll likely use the same bowls for years, so choose wisely.

Thomas Taylor Crown Green bowls

If you’re buying crown green bowls from Thomas Taylor, you should know that they use the same standards for crown green bowls as they do for their flat green bowls. Therefore, their crown shells are equally accurate and consistent. Crown green shells from Thomas Taylor offer models like the Deluxe, Elite and Grippa. The Deluxe model is their classic model that comes in black or brown color options.

Drake’s Pride Bowls

The second best option out there is buying a Drakes Pride Bowl. Drake’s Pride Bowls have shorter and wider soles than Taylor’s, and they snag less despite having the same incline. You can choose from grippy shells, non-grip shells, Hi-Density Deluxe, Lo-Density Deluxe, or any other model that suits your needs.

Henselite Crown Green shells

These bowls share similar characteristics to Drake’s Pride bowls, but differ in price. The Henselite Super Grip is significantly cheaper than the Drake’s Deluxe.

Conclusion

In summary, to be good at Crown Green Bowling you need to follow certain principles and tactics and choose the right brand. Make sure you choose shells that fit your hands best, with the appropriate density, size, and weight. Last but not least, buy bowls from the best manufacturers out there because bowl quality and suitability are key to your success in the game.

Crown green bowling and flat green bowls are not the same. Although crown and flat green bowls are a sport whose aim is to roll small balls as close as possible to a smaller ball called a jack, they have some differences.

The two terms are a variation on a sport called lawn bowls, which looks a bit like bowling green or bowling on grass. The surface is the primary and most obvious difference between the two sports. Crown green bowls require a convex or uneven surface, while flat green bowls are played on flat and level surfaces.

Let’s get into the details of both sports and explain all the differences between them.

Crown green shells

As previously mentioned, a Crown Green game is played on a convex, uneven surface. Crown Greens are strictly outdoor games and cannot be played as indoor bowls. It takes place on greens between 40 and 45 square meters. Crown greens use the entire green, and the rules state that a player can roll the crown green jack anywhere on the green. These green spaces should be rough and with well-manicured grass.

The balls used in the game are called Pride Crown Green Bowls. They weigh anywhere from 2lb 4oz to 3lb. Junior Crown Green Bowlers and Ladies typically play smaller and lighter bowls. Most bowls are made of wood and are typically biased. A biased bowl is a bowl that is slightly off-center, holds a heavier weight on one side, and follows a more curved path. Crown bowls are played with two bowls for each player plus a main bowl; The main bowl is smaller and is called a jack, and the two larger wooden bowls are called jacks. The bowls played at crown greens are typically low density bowls.

At the start of the game, opponents flip a coin to decide which of the crown green players should start the game by placing a mat and rolling the jack. The jack serves as a target; The goal is to roll all the other woods as close to the jack as possible. Once the jack is moved, it can no longer be distributed on the field.

There are also differences in the points. Each wood scores a point if both bowls thrown by a crown green bowler are close to the jack. If only one bowl is closest, that counts as one point. If a moving ball hits the jack, it must be withdrawn and replayed. The winner is the one who scores 21 points first.

The Jack in a Crown Bowl is the most valuable wood. It is a 32 ounce bowl that sets the pattern of the game.

Flat green bowls

Flat green is played on a level surface where the bowls are just rolled up and down with no variation. Flat green cups are much larger than crown green cups, starting at around 3 pounds and going up to 4 pounds. Aside from the size, these lawn pots are more biased than the crown pots. They are much stronger, high density shells with a more pronounced camber. Unlike the Crown Green Bowl, flat green players can use four bowls at a time, resulting in more game variation.

In this sport, the strategic placement of the balls is used much more towards the end of the game. This happens because strategic placement can open up more chances of winning in bowls matches. In this game, as in Kronengrün, the jack is the most critical bowl, as the whole game revolves around which bowl is closest to it.

However, the two games acknowledge a massive difference in how the jack is used. Flat green bowlers use a composition ball, and the mark is set simply by rolling it across the field. At the request of the bowl players, the jack may be removed from its original place by the officials.

A flat game can be more interesting as the balls are rolled much closer to the jack.

Conclusion

Because both crown bowls and flat bowls are variations of lawn bowling, it becomes confusing to distinguish them. Nevertheless, they have many differences.

Lawn bowls, better known as flat green bowls, are played on flat fields, while crown bowls are played on an uneven green filled with mounds (crowns). Aside from this essential and distinct difference, they have different shell sizes and slightly different rules.

But in one thing they are alike; Both are fun to play and watch!

Is your sporting knowledge up to date? Imagine yourself being a super sports statistician? Then BBC Sport Online wants YOU.

If you’re stumped by a trivia question that’s keeping you up at night, post it to Ask Everyone and we’ll challenge the masses on your behalf.

Ask Anybody gives you the opportunity to ask the toughest questions about any sport. We will pick a selection of the best and put the rest of our readers to the test.

You may be perplexed or perplexed about baseball on a cricket inquiry. But see if you can fool those brains out there.

Whatever the sport, fear not. Ask Anybody’s experts can solve your brain teaser.

Let’s put you to the test, see if you can answer any of the following questions. Keep scrolling for a full list of questions.

Q: Who has the most 147 in ranking events in snooker history?

Lee, UK

Q: In golf, is there a minimum distance from the edge of the green to the pin in the hole?

Mike McLaughlin, Canada

The location of the hole is not covered by the Rules but it is recommended that the hole should be positioned at least four paces from any edge of the green. Also, a two or three foot radius area around the hole should be as level as possible. In no event should holes be positioned within three strides of a very steep drop or ridge, or of a recently used hole.

Jason Dean, UK

Q: When was the first cricket match broadcast live and what year did regular UK test matches start broadcasting?

Eric Taylor, UK

Q: Why do Australian teams play in green and gold when their national flag is blue?

Christopher Bailey, England

Australian teams play green and gold because of the native acacia trees – yellow flowers and green leaves.

Greg Moran, Australia

Q: Can someone explain to me why on indoor bowls the referee sprays the bowls after contact with another bowl?

Ben Calveley, England

The reason the shells are sprayed is to mark them as touches. These are balls which, because they touched the jack, cannot be knocked out of play by hitting them in the ditch. The spray is more accurate than what is used in most indoor bowling clubs, which is chalk.

Iain Ballard, UK

Q: How do speedguns measure the speed of the serve or ball in tennis and cricket?

Anand, India

Usually a radar gun is used, which uses Doppler signal processing to clock velocities. An antenna emits a radio frequency (RF) signal at a specific frequency (10.525 GHz). The signal protrudes from the pistol like a torch beam. When a moving object, such as a thrown ball, enters the device’s transmitted signal, the frequency of the signal reflected from the ball is changed or “shifted”. This change in frequency, or “Doppler shift,” is proportional to the speed of the ball, and the radar gun can instantly process the return signal to indicate the projectile’s speed. Radar is only capable of measuring unidirectional speed from a target to a source, such as server to receiver or bowler to batsman. Of course, this is not the same as police radar guns, which require the gun to be “pointed” at the projectile (car).

Jason Dean, UK

If you know the answer to any of the above questions or have a question, submit it using the form below.

When bowling on grass was invented, bowls were made from lignum vitae many years ago. Lignum vitae is a hardwood species that only grows in the southern hemisphere. In the countries where the lignum grew, people used to collect it at the docks and use long timbers for the stability of their ships. Local bowl makers were lucky enough to find this hardwood and use it to build their bowls.

However, over time, the governments of these countries became concerned that the timber was being cut down in large quantities. Because of this, they instituted many restrictions and controls that restricted the use of lignum vitae in small blocks.

A short time later, people began making bowls from materials other than wood. Hence the composite plastic shells were introduced.

Shell material is very crucial when playing crown green shells. But the question is how to choose the right one?

What size lawn bowl should I buy?

It’s crucial to pick better lawn bowls than your opponents’ bowls. The crown green shells are sized according to their weight. It can vary from 2 lb 0 oz to 3 lb and increase in 2 oz increments.

If you are unsure of what size lawn bowl to buy, always choose the heaviest bowl that you can comfortably handle. Of course, heavier bowls travel great distances, but they’re also harder to grasp and hold.

The main factor when choosing a new shell set is comfort. We recommend finding the heaviest bowl you can handle, but don’t compromise on your ability to grab and hold the bowl with ease.

For more experienced players, high density shells are a great option. However, we recommend getting a standard-density bowl first if you’re a beginner.

In contrast to indoor bowls, the bowl selection almost always depends on the surface.

bias

Another thing that defines shells is bias. Bias is the natural arc that allows the bowl to curve left or right as it rolls. The slope is created as the bowl is formed and adds a bit of weight to the sides of the bowl.

A standard among manufacturers is a 2 full bias dish, which applies to both jack and regular dishes.

Crown Green Bowl weights

Crown green pots can be high, low, or standard density. The density of the bowl affects its size but not its weight. A higher density bowl can weigh the same as a lower density one. The difference would be that the higher density bowl is smaller.

Standard density trays

Standard density bowls are recommended for new bowlers just learning how to play. It is generally accepted that these bowls are good and perform equally well on both fast and slow greens. The standard bowl is the perfect density and works for fast or slow greens.

High Density Shells

High-density bowls are bowls made from heavy materials and are often referred to as wooden bowls. However, being heavier does not mean being bigger. A high-density bowl that weighs 2 pounds 8 ounces is the same size as a standard-density bowl that weighs 2 pounds 6 ounces.

This type of bowl is great for fast greens as they tend to pull up quicker than a standard bowl. Also, high density shells are ideal for people with hand and grip issues.

Low-density shells

Unlike high-density, these shells are made from lighter materials than the standard shell. A 2lb 8oz low density bowl is the same physical size as a standard 2lb 10oz high density bowl.

Low-density plastic bowls are great for heavier, slower greens. Due to their lightness, low density bowls are easier to control as they move faster and tend to run longer on heavier surfaces. Despite this, they tend to overrun fast greens.

FAQ – Select shells

What is the difference between Lawn Bowls and Crown Green Bowls?

The answer is simple: Lawn bowls are played on the flat green where the bowl can run smoothly through the surface. In contrast, crown green bowls are played on non-flat greens with a mound (or crown).

What size lawn trays should I buy?

The perfect size is different for everyone. However, here are some general tips:

Women often buy bowls from 00 to 3, while men are more likely to buy bowls from size 3 to 6. The most popular size is either 3 or 4 pounds.

What weight of Crown Green Bowls should I buy?

The weight of a bowl is influenced by personal preference. Still, 2lb 4oz bowls are the perfect crown green bowl for a woman, while 2lb 8oz is the most common choice of crown green bowl for a man.

Lawn bowls, or simply bowls, is a sport of precision, keen tactical awareness and great sportsmanship. Looking to brush up on your lawn bowls game in 2021? There are many useful tips and tricks that beginner lawn bowlers can incorporate into their training to take their game to the next level.

Here at Taylor Bowls, we’re proud lawn bowl enthusiasts and we’ve collected many useful lawn bowl tips over the years to improve the way we play. Our experienced team is now ready to share that knowledge with you – read our top lawn bowl tips below.

Training, exercises & regular practice

As with any other sport, you need regular training and practice to play well. You can’t expect to get to your lawn bowling match once a week and do your best – exercise is essential! Try to set aside at least a couple of afternoons a week to practice and apply drills that fit the area of ​​your game you’re trying to improve on. and “the yard-on shot”. There are many online resources these days, including YouTube videos, that can demonstrate the best way to complete your desired lawn bowl drill.

Invest in the right lawn trays and accessories

As the saying goes, a painter is only as good as the brush he uses. The same concept can be applied to lawn bowls. A lawn bowler is only as good at the bowls he uses! Because of this, it is important that you use quality lawn trays that best suit your needs. If you are new to lawn trays, it is recommended that you try a few different options to determine which size is most comfortable for you. Shoes, clothing and a good lawn mat should also be considered.

Consider your form and technique

When bowling in the middle of a heated turf, it can be easy to forget your form and technique. This is a big problem for many bowlers, but proper form and technique should never be forgotten. A few elements to remember when playing and practicing lawn bowls are to always aim your feet, tighten your shoulders, maintain a consistent mat position, and don’t let your arm go limp.

Not sure which lawn trays to buy? Browse our extensive range online or contact the helpful Taylor Bowls team today with any questions. In the meantime, we hope these lawn bowl tips help improve your game!

Crown Green Bowls Buying Guide Part 2

What size crown green trays do I need?

Crown green bowl sizes are based on the weight of the bowl and range from 2 pounds 0 ounces up to 3 pounds depending on the brand, usually in 2 ounce increments (but 9 ounce bowls are fairly common).

When choosing which bowl size to buy, the general consensus is that you should choose the heaviest bowl that you can comfortably handle and roll with. A heavier bowl will generally move farther, but heavier bowls are naturally a larger bowl for comfortable gripping and holding (here the density of the bowl can be considered). The ability to grip the bowl securely and handle it comfortably should be the primary factor when choosing a new set of bowls. We recommend going for the heaviest bowl you can, but don’t compromise on your ability to grab the ball well because of the 2 ounce weight.

High density shells help a lot in bridging the gap between shell grip and shell weight and are a great option for more experienced shell players. However, if you are new to the game, we always recommend that you familiarize yourself with playing with a default density first.

What does 2 full bias mean?

All modern crown green shells are now made with a 2 full preload – the same preload as the preload as the bushing. In earlier years, crown green bowls were made with a different pitch of 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. This is still a common thing to find when looking for used bowls and something to keep in mind if you do.

Bias is simply the natural arc or line that the bowl travels as it rolls along the green. A 2-full bias is now standard for the crown green game and standard with the current crown green bowl manufacturers.

density

Crown Green Bowls come in three densities; Standard, high and low.

Personally, I’ve only ever bowled with high-density skittles. I bought my first pair of shells when I was young so a high density shell ensured I could use a heavier weight and still hold them comfortably.

A higher density shell can weigh the same as a lower density shell but be smaller. The upside is this tends to make it easier to hold and control, giving good accuracy. On a fast green, higher density bowls will pull up faster than fly past the jack, but on slower greens they tend to miss the jack – so require more effort to send these instances. The reverse is true for lower density shells.

Standard density bowls tend to be good all-rounders and work reasonably well on fast or slow greens, requiring less adjustability than higher or lower density bowls. Some bowlers may find that two pairs of bowls – with different densities – is an easier compromise, changing the bowls used depending on the run of the green. This is something I personally wouldn’t recommend as I’ve always felt consistency is key and prefer to make my adjustments based on the conditions of the day.

As with the different weights, it would be wise to try different density bowls before actually considering buying your own bowls – or seeing what other bowlers at your club are using or recommending.

What are standard density bowls?

We typically recommend that new bowlers choose a standard-density bowl when learning to play (unless physical limitations are an issue). As a general rule, standard density bowls are good all-purpose bowls. This means they perform just as well on fast greens as they do on slow ones. Where a bowl can outperform high density on a fast green and low density on a slow green. Some bowlers find it optimal to use a combination of densities during the bowling season.

However, for a beginner, familiarity with the bowl is paramount and we would recommend that they master the feel of a standard bowl on all types of greens rather than juggling the intricacies of working with varying densities from match to match

What are high density shells?

A higher density shell is manufactured to produce a shell that is heavier for its physical size than a standard composition. To give you an example, a high-density bowl that weighs 2 pounds 8 ounces is the same physical size as a standard-density bowl that weighs 2 pounds 6 ounces.

This size/weight variation can be beneficial for a crown green bowler playing on a fast green, as a higher density bowl tends to pull up quicker than a standard bowl – however, the downside is, that they can tend to pull up short on slower greens and therefore require more effort when sending.

A higher density can also be extremely useful for bowlers who may be struggling with hand problems and grip becomes an issue. In this case, using a high density bowl would allow the bowler to maintain bowl weight while increasing their ability to hold and control the bowl due to its smaller physical size.

What are low-density shells?

A low density is basically the opposite of a high density shell. Unlike the high-density bowl, a low-density bowl is made from slightly lighter material than that used to make the standard bowl. The result of this manufacturing process leaves us with a bowl that is roughly the same physical size as a standard 2lb 10oz bowl, but weighs only 2lb 8oz.

Because of this weight/size shift, lower density bowls are better suited to heavier, slower greens that are most common early in the season or on surfaces affected by rain etc. Due to the bowl’s lightness, they tend to ride over the surface more easily and tend to run longer on these types of surfaces compared to standard and extra high density bowls. Obviously on fast greens they tend to overflow a bit. This is the trade-off when choosing a low or high density bowl. For beginners or those new to the crown green game, we recommend that they start with a standard density ball and really get a good feel for the ball.

Next – Part 3 Watch them make the note ?

Crown green bowling and flat green bowls are not the same. Although crown and flat green bowls are a sport whose aim is to roll small balls as close as possible to a smaller ball called a jack, they have some differences.

The two terms are a variation on a sport called lawn bowls, which looks a bit like bowling green or bowling on grass. The surface is the primary and most obvious difference between the two sports. Crown green bowls require a convex or uneven surface, while flat green bowls are played on flat and level surfaces.

Let’s get into the details of both sports and explain all the differences between them.

Crown green shells

As previously mentioned, a Crown Green game is played on a convex, uneven surface. Crown Greens are strictly outdoor games and cannot be played as indoor bowls. It takes place on greens between 40 and 45 square meters. Crown greens use the entire green, and the rules state that a player can roll the crown green jack anywhere on the green. These green spaces should be rough and with well-manicured grass.

The balls used in the game are called Pride Crown Green Bowls. They weigh anywhere from 2lb 4oz to 3lb. Junior Crown Green Bowlers and Ladies typically play smaller and lighter bowls. Most bowls are made of wood and are typically biased. A biased bowl is a bowl that is slightly off-center, holds a heavier weight on one side, and follows a more curved path. Crown bowls are played with two bowls for each player plus a main bowl; The main bowl is smaller and is called a jack, and the two larger wooden bowls are called jacks. The bowls played at crown greens are typically low density bowls.

At the start of the game, opponents flip a coin to decide which of the crown green players should start the game by placing a mat and rolling the jack. The jack serves as a target; The goal is to roll all the other woods as close to the jack as possible. Once the jack is moved, it can no longer be distributed on the field.

There are also differences in the points. Each wood scores a point if both bowls thrown by a crown green bowler are close to the jack. If only one bowl is closest, that counts as one point. If a moving ball hits the jack, it must be withdrawn and replayed. The winner is the one who scores 21 points first.

The Jack in a Crown Bowl is the most valuable wood. It is a 32 ounce bowl that sets the pattern of the game.

Flat green bowls

Flat green is played on a level surface where the bowls are just rolled up and down with no variation. Flat green cups are much larger than crown green cups, starting at around 3 pounds and going up to 4 pounds. Aside from the size, these lawn pots are more biased than the crown pots. They are much stronger, high density shells with a more pronounced camber. Unlike the Crown Green Bowl, flat green players can use four bowls at a time, resulting in more game variation.

In this sport, the strategic placement of the balls is used much more towards the end of the game. This happens because strategic placement can open up more chances of winning in bowls matches. In this game, as in Kronengrün, the jack is the most critical bowl, as the whole game revolves around which bowl is closest to it.

However, the two games acknowledge a massive difference in how the jack is used. Flat green bowlers use a composition ball, and the mark is set simply by rolling it across the field. At the request of the bowl players, the jack may be removed from its original place by the officials.

A flat game can be more interesting as the balls are rolled much closer to the jack.

Conclusion

Because both crown bowls and flat bowls are variations of lawn bowling, it becomes confusing to distinguish them. Nevertheless, they have many differences.

Lawn bowls, better known as flat green bowls, are played on flat fields, while crown bowls are played on an uneven green filled with mounds (crowns). Aside from this essential and distinct difference, they have different shell sizes and slightly different rules.

But in one thing they are alike; Both are fun to play and watch!