Crystal With Star Pattern? Best 268 Answer

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How do I identify a crystal pattern?

A magnifying glass and holding the stemware up to light can help you spot the mark and read it.
  1. You could find the mark on the rim or center of the foot, on the stem, or on the bottom of the bowl.
  2. The mark could be an initial, a logo, a word, or coded numbers and letters.

What glassware has a star on the bottom?

The “Horseshoe & Star” motif is seen on the base of jelly glasses, packer jars & tumblers, the majority of which were probably made from around 1900 into the 1930s. (Sometimes the star is not present). These were likely made by a number of pressed glass tableware manufacturers of the period.

How can you tell if a crystal is vintage?

Most antique crystal has an etching, symbol or sticker made by the company that manufactured it. Hold the stem up to a light to look for a manufacturer’s logo or emblem. For instance, Heisey stemware is marked with the Heisey diamond H, the letter H inside a diamond; some have an embossed H and and a diamond.

Is Waterford crystal still valuable?

They estimate that Waterford-manufactured pieces and other highly decorated crystal are valued between $1,000 to $4,000. If the piece is in especially great condition, it could be worth even more! Luckily, there’s a few simple ways to determine the value of your antique glassware pieces.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

Anyone who owns vintage crystal glassware probably doesn’t use those fancy bowls, goblets, and other ornaments to set the dining table very often (or at all). If you have parts that collect dust, you might be better off making some money off them instead. Here are some tips on how to determine the value of antique crystal glassware, which could be worth thousands!

Crystal stands out from traditional glassware because it is made of lead, giving it a smoother and heavier feel. According to experts at Invaluable, pieces of crystal made between 1876 and around 1920 (also known as the “American Brilliant” period) are a gold mine. “The most famous crystal glassware came out of Waterford during the ‘American Brilliant’ period, known for ‘bright glass’, rhythmic patterns, prismatic stems and intricate cuts,” explains the website.

They estimate Waterford-made pieces and other highly decorated crystals are worth between $1,000 and $4,000. If the piece is in particularly good condition, it could be worth even more! Luckily, there are a few easy ways to determine the value of your antique glassware.

We’ve all heard the old adage, “All that glitters is not gold.” It turns out the same applies to materials like crystal. According to Hunker’s Laurie Brenner, you can tell how authentic the crystal is by holding it up to sunlight. If the light penetrates and emits a rainbow, it is real crystal material. She also suggests doing a quick sound test. “In another test, tap a spoon lightly under the rim of the glass. If you hear a musical note, it’s crystal, but if you don’t, it’s just glass.” She says.

Detail is another design feature buyers look for in crystal glassware. City Farmhouse Antiques Mention reviewers note that on larger pieces, details such as an intricate diamond pattern and maker’s signature on the base can add value. Talking to an appraiser is the best option to get an accurate quote on how much these details can go into the selling price.

This video offers more advice on valuing your pieces:

As with other collectibles, browsing eBay can give you a good idea of ​​antique crystal glassware prices. A rare find such as a set of vintage Baccarat Marennes crystal water goblets is currently listed for $3,500. And a standalone piece like a Val Saint Lambert-cut crystal green bowl can cost $2,250. So check your closets and see what gems you might find!

Don’t worry if you don’t find antique crystal glassware hanging around there. Maybe you can still score big with vintage Pyrex dishes or old mason jars while eliminating your clutter!

Is lead crystal valuable?

Lead crystal is usually very expensive, and quite fragile….and not given to clouding in the dishwasher.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

There seems to be an abundance of leaded glass out there. I have glasses and I don’t know what to do with them.

Can anyone help me decide what to do with the box of crystal glasses that is by my front door?

I can’t bring myself to use them anymore because of the lead content (although we still seem to have our skills).

Giving them away seems unethical in case someone else is using them. Throwing them away seems crazy. Storage is a bit of a hassle even for a keeper like me as crystal isn’t really our taste and I’m not space swimmers and unlikely to sell them as they’re a bit cloudy as SOMEBODY put them in the dishwasher , plus the ethics thing. Does anyone do anything with lead crystal other than use it to collect dust? I can’t even imagine how to make garden ornaments out of it!

I have some crystal bowls and vases and can use them reasonably, but the glasses have me at a loss. Can lead glass be recycled at all? If so, I suppose I could just put them in the blue box.

KarinL

What is the highest quality crystal?

Here are some of the most popular crystal makers:
  • Baccarat. If time were the litmus test of excellence in crafting crystals, Baccarat would simply be at the top. …
  • Daum. …
  • Lalique. …
  • Steuben. …
  • Tiffany. …
  • Waterford. …
  • Swarovski.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

If you want a luxury collection, you simply can’t go wrong with crystals. Like tableware made of porcelain, also known as china, crystals are known for being delicate but elegant, fragile but exquisite. They are practically timeless in terms of appearance and value. Crystals have been treasured by many for decades, but only select manufacturers have successfully produced pieces so fine that they have won the favor of no fewer than the world’s richest and most powerful.

Here are some of the most popular crystal manufacturers:

1. Baccarat

If time were the litmus test of excellence in crystal making, Baccarat would simply be at the top. It was founded by the Bishop of Metz in the second half of the 18th century and is today the oldest existing crystal factory. Like many of his creations, it has survived wars and revolutions over the centuries and continues to impress and impress even today’s connoisseurs.

Baccarat pieces are hand blown and include chandeliers as well as figurines, crockery and decorations. These creations not only impress with their intricate form, but also with their masterful use of gold accents and red, green and amethyst color blocks. Crafted from black crystal, Baccarat’s infamous Zenith Midnight Chandelier has been illuminating some of the world’s most luxurious rooms for generations.

With a long history, it’s no wonder the House of Baccarat’s admirers stretch far back. Jayajirao Scindia, Maharajah of Gwalior, Tsar Nicolas II and Portugal’s Queen Maria Pia of Savoy are among Baccarat’s famous clients.

2nd thumb

Founded in 1878 in Nancy, France by Jean Daum, this crystal workshop rose to prominence during the Art Nouveau period at the turn of the 20th century. It is notable for being the only commercial crystal manufacturer to use the glass paste process instead of the more common glassblowing process. Their work consists of crystal art and sculpture, although they also make elaborate decorations and tableware.

Daum is also famous for his interesting use of color, resulting in crystal pieces that look like jewels carved into shape. In the past it has collaborated with famous artists including Salvador Dali and Hilton McConnico.

3. Lalique

Founded by renowned glassmaker Rene Lalique, the company achieved fame by creating exotic crystal art inspired by nature. One of the company’s greatest claims to iconic status is its Bacchantes collection, with its stylized and sensual depiction of the female form. The subject matter, execution and skillful play with subtlety and detail in his pieces contributed to the status Lalique enjoys to this day.

Those wishing to experience the beauty of Lalique pieces will be pleased to know that the manufacturer offers an extensive range of crystal lighting, tableware, jewellery, desk accessories and highly acclaimed perfume bottles. Lalique is now a mainstay in many luxury venues around the world, promoting some of the most replicated crystal designs, which, if anything, is just further testament to the kind of reputation the brand holds.

4. Steuben

Perhaps nothing exemplifies the qualities of Steuben’s crystal work better than the “Arctic Fisherman,” a sculpture depicting an Eskimo piercing a frozen body of water represented by a piece of clear glass. Everything from the details of Eskimo’s cloak to his spear (made from a delicate strand of glass) is a hallmark of precision, the very same quality that has earned Steuben recognition as one of the leading names in crystal sculpture.

Founded in 1903 in Corning, New York, the manufacturer pioneered the development of glass products with cut, engraved and free-blown designs. Steuben is credited with two glass specialties that have become a trademark: Aurene, with its translucent, almost flowing surface, and Intarsia with overlapping color inlays.

Steuben has worked with many famous artists over the years to create masterpieces including Kiki Smith’s Tattoo Vase, James Carpenter’s Pair of Hearts, Beth Lipman’s various collections, among others. Steuben plays were not only popular gifts for world leaders like Queen Elizabeth II, but also featured prominently in many Hollywood productions. Steuben also made the glass slipper at Disney World.

5. Tiffany

The name might be synonymous with luxury jewelry, but Tiffany & Co. is actually more than that. Serving a mostly affluent clientele with high-end products, the retailer offers everything from bottled water and accessories to stationery and diamonds. They also sell crystals.

Founded in Brooklyn, Connecticut in 1837, Tiffany began as a trading center for luxury goods. The shop has earned its reputation for selling extremely stylish items, a standard it tries to uphold to this day through its crystal collection. Tiffany’s crystal pieces range from the simple to the elaborate and exist in the form of glasses, bowls, paperweights and other decor. They even have crystal boxes.

6.Waterford

If there’s one word this brand has become famous for, it’s “quality”. Founded in 1783 in Waterford, Ireland, this crystal manufacturer forged its name through a distinct cutting pattern that is a classic staple among its products, whether it’s tableware, home decor, lighting, pens or accessories. Among the most notable creations was the ballet ribbon collection, which used slender ribbons to transform all-too-familiar stemmed glasses into elegant works of art.

Today, Waterford is also known as a manufacturer of glass trophies for many prestigious sporting events such as the French, German and Belgian Grands Prix in Formula 1 and the People’s Choice Award trophy.

7.Swarovski

This name is big in the fashion world, but it definitely didn’t start there. In 1892, Daniel Swarovski invented a revolutionary crystal cutting machine. This helped in the creation of many things from crystal, from crystal-encrusted bands that could be sewn into clothing to high-precision optical instruments. Only later did the Swarovski brand and its iconic swan logo become fashionable. Today, Swarovski offers jewelry, fashion accessories, watches, figurines and even perfumes.

The brand’s appeal stems from its emphasis on simplicity while celebrating quirkiness that many of its customers find attractive yet relatable. Swarovski crystals often come in small sizes as beads that can be attached to clothing and accessories. They’re also affordable, so they’re considered an excellent start for novice crystal collectors.

Crystals are real luxury items in more ways than one. They are extraordinarily beautiful, dainty – fragile even – and they attract enough attraction and inspiration that their wealthy admirers are willing to pay a fortune for them. However, not all crystals are created equal as some are actually better than others and they have the history and acclaim of their patrons to prove it.

What kind of glass is worth money?

Look for pink, blue and green glassware

Pink, green and blue are the most valuable colors of depression glass. Pink tends to be the most valuable because it is more rare. Yellow and amber colored depression glass is more common and therefore less valuable.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

I love the thrill of finding something valuable at the thrift store. It’s an addictive feeling, especially when you know you can potentially resell a piece for a profit. One area of ​​the thrift store that might have some hidden gems is the glass aisle. It can be overwhelming to know what types of glassware are valuable, so I’ve put together this quick little guide to help you find something that might be worth more than what you paid for.

How do you know if thrift store glassware is valuable? There are a few key factors to look out for when buying valuable glassware from the thrift store. Feel the weight of the item as higher quality glass is usually heavier. Look for markings embossed into the glass that could indicate a brand or manufacturer. Look at the glass through the light to see if it is cloudy or making a rainbow prism. Finally, get acquainted with some of the most popular types of valuable glassware.

What to look out for when you’re at the thrift store

When browsing the glassware aisle at a thrift store or real estate sale, there are a few important tips to keep in mind when trying to uncover something of value.

Feel the weight of the item

Pay attention to the quality of the glass

Look for seams, bubbles, and flaws

Search for markers or numbers

Types of precious glass and how to identify them

There are many different types of precious and antique glassware. I’ll address some of the most popular ones you can spot at the thrift store. While this might not be a foolproof guide, hopefully it gives you a little knowledge on what to look out for as you embark on your next savings journey.

crystal glass

Crystal is one of the more common forms of glassware that can be valuable as it is made of lead oxide and is more labor intensive to produce than regular glass. It’s helpful to know a few facts about crystal so you can identify it quickly while you’re at the thrift store.

How to distinguish crystal from regular glass:

Look for a rainbow prism

When light passes through a fine piece of crystal, it should form a rainbow prism. Hold the piece of glass up to the light to look for these rainbows.

Do the knock test

Touch the glassware. If it makes a ringing ringtone, then it’s probably crystal. On the other hand, if you hear a dull noise, it may be normal glass.

Compare his weight

Crystal has a higher lead content than regular glass and therefore tends to be heavier. Try comparing the suspect piece of crystal to a similarly sized piece of glass to see if it is heavier.

Crystal is thinner than glass

Another factor to consider when trying to determine if the glassware in question is crystal is observing how thin it is. Crystal glass can be processed thinner in the production process, but is still stable due to the lead content. Normal glass tends to be thicker at the edge.

how clear is it

Typically, crystal is extremely clear. Due to the lead content, there should be no bubbles or cloudiness.

depression glass

Depression glass is clear glass that often has one color or tint. It got its name because it was cheap glass that was popular during the Great Depression. While not the highest quality glass, it can be valuable as it has become a popular collector’s item. Here are a few ways to identify depression glass at the thrift store.

Look for pink, blue, and green glassware

Pink, green and blue are the most valuable colors of depression glass. Pink tends to be the most valuable because it’s rarer. Yellow and amber depression glass are more common and therefore less valuable.

Look for small bubbles or seams

True depression glass often has tiny bubbles throughout the glass. You may also find seams in the glass as it is mass produced. Replicas usually don’t have these bubbles.

how thin is it

Depression glass is quite thin because it is of lower quality than other types of glass.

Intricate patterns

Many types of indentation glass have intricate patterns pressed into the surface of the glass.

frosted glass

Frosted glass is one of my favorite types of glass at the thrift store. Because of its popularity, it’s fairly easy to find frosted glass at the thrift store. However, not every milk glass is not as valuable as others.

Frosted glass refers to white glassware and can sometimes be translucent. Typically you will find pieces such as vases, candle holders, drinkware, serving bowls and plates.

How clear is it?

Newer frosted glass is almost opaque and lighter white. This type of frosted glass was made after 1960. It’s not as valuable as older frosted glass, but it’s still a collector’s item and may have some value.

Older frosted glass is more translucent and can even create a rainbow prism when held up to the light. This kind of frosted glass can hold more value.

Look for larger pieces of frosted glass

Larger pieces like serving platters, footed bowls, and large vases are more valuable than smaller pieces. Once you start looking for frosted glass at the thrift store, you’ll become familiar with the most commonly found pieces.

jadeite

Jadeite glassware is similar to frosted glass but has a mint green hue. Jadeite is a popular collectible, so if you happen to find something while saving up, it could be valuable!

Check the density

Red jadeite is heavy and dense. A reproduction can be lighter or even made of plastic

Check for markings

Jadeite was most commonly made by 2 different companies: “McKee” or “Fire-King”. Look for embossed marks that say “Fire-King” or “McK” to see if it’s the real thing. Not all genuine pieces have these markings.

It could glow in the dark!

Yes, you read it right! Some older pieces of jadeite actually glow in the dark when placed under a black light. Of course you can’t test this at the thrift store unless you’re really hardcore and bring a black light with you!

glass bottles

Vintage glass bottles have the potential to hold their value, but there are a few things to look out for when you spot a glass bottle on the thrift store shelf.

Pontil brands

Pontil marks are small circular marks or scars often found on the bottom of a glass bottle. These markings are an indication that the bottle was hand blown. If the pieces don’t have a pontil mark, it was most likely made with a mold.

How sharp are the images?

Earlier pieces have sharper mold lines, images and designs. If the designs are smoother and more rounded, it may be a recent piece or a reproduction.

Look for numbers or labels embossed into the bottle

Vintage glass bottles often have numbers, labels, or words embossed into the side or bottom.

Look at the seams

If the glass bottle has seams on the sides that run the full length of the bottle, this is a good indication that it was mass-produced using a mold and was made after 1900.

Where to find valuable glassware

Most thrift stores have a glassware section. This is the best place to go if you are looking for something of value. That being said, it’s always good to browse all the home decor sections of the thrift store. Frosted glass is often found with vases and candlesticks. Sometimes glassware is placed with the decorative figures or even in the seasonal department.

You can also look for glassware at estate sales and antique stores. However, most of these stores have been priced reasonably by someone knowledgeable about vintage items, so you will be paying a premium price.

Good luck on your Thrifting journey! Check out this post for more money-saving tips:

Saving tips during Covid

How much is my crystal rock worth?

The prices per carat do vary widely throughout time, and there are many things to look out for – including imitations and fractures – when appraising a quartz gem.

Value of Quartz: Different Varieties & Units.
Weight Unit Price
per gram $10
per ounce $285
per pound $4571
per carat $2

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

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The value of no gemstone is as elusive and variable as quartz, but by the end of this article we’ve learned a smattering of the cuts, colors, intricacies, and most importantly, the things you can take for granted when looking for the value of one quartz sample.

Quartz’s clarity earns it a raw price of around $0.01/carat and a gem price of between $1 and $7/carat. Amethyst or purple quartz is the most valuable variety (can reach up to $15/carat), but pink, pink, and smoky quartz are also valuable. Clearer, more vibrant, and unbroken specimens are the most valuable quartzes.

Prices per carat vary widely over time, and there are many things to look out for – including imitations and breakages – when evaluating a quartz gemstone.

If you are interested in looking at the finest quartz crystals, you can find them by clicking here (Amazon links) or here (fossilicious.com).

Is Quartz Crystal Worth Anything?

The True Value of Quartz Crystal

Of course, since quartz is a seemingly common material used for things beyond gemstones and beauty, this is the first question that arises for anyone delving into the world of quartz gemstones. Luckily, there’s a clear and concise answer that won’t disappoint.

Yes, quartz is indeed common, but it is also a very special mineral and has value. Of course, there will be no prices to compete with diamonds or other popular colored gems, but because it is beautiful and useful it will always have a price.

If you don’t already know, quartz is well known and widely used outside of the gemstone industry. It has electromagnetic properties that use it in the most luxurious Swiss watches and has become a buzzword analogous to timekeeping quality in the watchmaking and micromechanical industries.

In fact, quartz (silicon oxide or SiO as a chemical composition) is used in almost every high-end consumer electronics as a stable semiconductor.

Within the gemstone industry, it has an odd relationship with cost that other gemstones don’t have. For other gemstones, the labor required to cut, polish, and create the gemstone is a fraction of the cost of the final product because the mineral being processed is rare.

With quartz, however, the labor accounts for a large fraction of the final price. This is discussed in more detail below as it is one of the most important aspects of selling, handling and trading quartz.

Value of Quartz: Various grades and units

To start off by diving into the value of all types of quartz, what can make them different, let’s take a look at the average value for these different types.

The values ​​in this table (with the exception of the raw category) all refer to cut and polished quartz gemstones.

Of course, gemstones go through a long life cycle, depending on whether you just found the stone, whether you bought it from a reputable raw gemstone supplier, or have a specimen in a display case, the price changes a lot.

It can also change depending on where it was found and how it was cut. However, these variations and more are discussed below.

Here are the average prices per carat of different types of quartz.

Quartz Grade $/carat Rose 2-4 Smoky 3-5 Milky 1-4 White 2 Violet 7-15 Green 1.5 Raw 0.01 Clear 2 Pink 6-12 Lemon 1.5 Values ​​for different quartz grades

Since conversions are sometimes confusing, here is how much average clear quartz gemstones cost for various units of weight.

Weight Unit price per gram $10 per ounce $285 per pound $4571 per carat $2 Quartz prices for different weight units

Purple Quartz is the most valuable variety and is discussed in more detail in the following section.

pink

The second most valuable type of quartz is pink or strawberry quartz. This variety takes on a light clear pink color with darker freckles and is usually cut into round cabochons.

The price for this type can vary greatly and is usually characterized by its clarity. Clearer specimens rank higher in the price range, especially if the stains are clearly visible.

rose

Although rose quartz is similar in color, it has a few distinguishing features that set it apart from pink quartz. This variety is typically cloudy and therefore not cut into sharp gem shapes.

On the other hand, it is most popular when tumbled and completely round. Such cloudy minerals are most valuable when they are uniform. So try to look for imperfections in color variation that can push the price down into the $2/carat range.

Smoky

Smoky quartz (also spelled smoky) is a very valuable variety that is of equal value in all shades of brown. You can find light brown smoky quartz or an almost completely black variant.

Color variation is also responsible for price fluctuations in gem quality smoky quartz – you should find an uncracked specimen that is the same shade of brown throughout.

Smoky Quartz is also popularly displayed in its raw crystal form. In this case, color variation is desirable and even typical – usually near the base of the crystal there is a clearer hue, while the apex can have an infinitely dark hue.

The highest quality smoky quartz gemstones are also popular cut into gemstone shapes such as the emerald or ash cut and used as a backdrop for more colorful and expensive colored stones.

Any imperfections in color or a lighter cut will detract from the value, while a pure emerald-cut smoky quartz is at the top of the price range for this stone.

green yellow

Green and yellow quartz come from the same mineral relationship and usually fall into similar categories. They are more common than many other colors and are much cheaper for this reason, but are also sometimes faceted and sold as gemstones in jewelry due to their clarity and reflective properties.

Clear

Clear quartz is actually rarer than yellow quartz, but not as popular as a gem because of its apparent simplicity. If you’re looking to sell raw clear quartz, you might even want to look into the industrial sector.

TIP: Do you know that quartz crystals are formed? And how long does it take? Different varieties of quartz are formed slightly differently. Learn more in the following article:

The 1000 year process that forms quartz crystal and its varieties

What is the most valuable quartz?

Purple quartz or amethyst is the most valuable variety of quartz

Purple Quartz or Amethyst is widely recognized as the most popular and valuable type of quartz. Amethyst is treated as a real gem most of the time – meaning it can be found in the same places as other colored gems where you might not find clear or another type of quartz.

While not the rarest, Amethyst is the most famous variety, driving demand much higher. Since you may be just as curious as I am about the different aspects of amethyst as a gemstone, I’m going to take you through the 4C’s of this wonderful variety of quartz.

Its cut distinguishes it from other types of quartz and brings it closer to the realm of colored gemstones. While other varieties can be cut cabochon style (round with few edges), clear amethyst is most valuable when faceted.

It takes many of the forms that other colored gemstones take, notably: Asscher, Emerald (pictured below) and Baguette for textured or stepped cuts. It also looks great with round, oval and pillow cuts.

The color of amethyst ranges from a very light lavender to a deep royal violet. Different colors have different values, but usually the deeper and darker colored stones have greater intrinsic value.

They also look more natural – purple is not a color that is commonly found in nature, so it can sometimes appear artificial. It may also vary in color throughout the material.

Because amethyst is just a type of quartz that takes on its color due to the presence of other minerals, it can sometimes have clearer parts, especially closer to the source of crystal growth.

Quartz is usually characterized by a very high level of clarity, but it is prone to breakage. Amethyst is no exception, and most specimens you might find are already broken, with cracks everywhere and only very small elements that exist without cracks.

Because of this, any specialist will carefully look for imperfections when buying amethysts, so you should too.

Amethyst exists in all carat weights, it can be found in geodes as hundreds of tiny specimens, and it can be found in large, unbroken pieces. Therefore, a rarity by size will not significantly affect the price per carat.

However, there is one consideration that may actually present a barrier to larger quartz samples. Quartz has a glassy luster that appears waxy most of the time, but slowly becomes duller and duller as it grows in size.

This trait will not affect the average specimen, but should be considered when searching for massive gems.

TIP: Rock crystals are not only valuable, but also very common crystals in the USA. You can find them in nature, so it’s always good to know the legal part about rockhounding. Learn more in the following article:

Is it illegal to take rocks from nature? You should know that

What Makes Quartz Valuable?

Quartz’s value as a gemstone derives from the work that went into transforming it from a raw mineral into a gemstone. The value of raw quartz is highly dependent on its integrity, purity and color.

Meaning of gem cutters

Labor is an important part of the quartz industry as the raw material is not that rare but the end product is still a beautiful clear colored gemstone.

But it is also important because the mineral itself is not easy to work with. It has a shell fracture and brittle toughness not common to gems, making it a gem cutter’s specialty.

Fracture is a property that speaks about how a stone looks after it is broken. Shell Fracture creates wavy, smooth curves along a fractured surface.

When you think of the most attractive gemstones you’ve seen, you probably don’t think of curved surfaces – you usually think of clean, flat discs that reflect light in different directions.

Therefore, this property can represent a major barrier on the way from raw quartz to finished gemstone. It also makes it very difficult for DIYers who usually prefer a rounded, tumbled look as a result.

imitations

Also because of this property, quartz imitations are very popular. Glass has a similar fracture and also a similar clarity, making it very easy for the untrained eye to produce an almost indistinguishable imitation of quartz.

You will recognize large companies like Swarovski that produce glass crystals that can look very similar to quartz crystals.

Although quartz is still more valuable than these crystals, it’s interesting to look at all the similarities between the two materials. Glass is made from molten sand, which is itself almost 100% silicon and oxygen.

Thus, quartz and glass are both essentially the same material, and both are almost entirely devoid of any crystalline structure to be noticed.

The similarities don’t end there – when comparing the price structures of imitation glass crystals and quartz crystals, the working price of both dominates the final gemstone price due to the cheap cost of raw materials.

The higher price of quartz can be attributed to the lower supply – since glass is easier to acquire than raw quartz, it is relatively easy to find glass crystals for sale but more difficult to find quartz crystals for jewelry.

By the way: Would you like to learn more about the identification of rocks and minerals? The books listed below are the best you can find on the web (Amazon links):

Where can I sell rock crystals?

So when the imitations are so popular, you need to find a place where your natural material is valued for what it is. There is a different market for raw and crystal quartz, so you have to go to different places to sell it.

Etsy and other niche online marketplaces are fantastic options if you are just starting your career as a gemstone dealer. There are also established shops on these platforms that are very successful.

Another way is to join rock and crystal clubs and attend their events. These are mostly friendly, personal affairs where you can share your passion for minerals and exchange interesting specimens.

TIP: Do you know where to find quartz for sale? Beaches can be great places to find quartz crystals. Check out how to find quartz on the beach in the following article:

Can you find quartz on the beach? It depends how you look

Where can I buy rock crystals?

If you’re in the market for quartz, you’ll need to decide whether you want to buy from a reputable company where there are ways to reliably trace the origin of each gemstone, or you want a more personalized experience and creative piece.

raw quartz

Online marketplaces Etsy, Amazon, and Joom are great places to find raw quartz. There are many mineral wholesalers that sell quartz.

I recommend looking for raw quartz in these online marketplaces as it is relatively common, making scams and other attempts to lie to you about what you are buying less common.

rock crystals and jewellery

The best place to buy natural jewelry is undoubtedly local gem fairs and fairs. These are usually weekend seasonal events where stone traders set up stalls in a town square.

These are really exciting events and provide a friendly atmosphere for mineral exchange. If you are looking for a more valuable gemstone, reputable jewelry stores usually have a small selection of quartz.

Otherwise every rock shop or soul shop has creative quartz crystals.

TIP: Looking for tips on what to buy for your beloved passionate rock seekers? For the best and less common tips on gifting for Rockhounds, check out the article below:

13 Best Gifts For Rockhounds You Should Buy

How can you tell vintage glass patterns?

How to Know Whether Glass Is Antique
  1. Pontil marks – Blown glass, as opposed to molded glass, usually has a pontil mark on the bottom. …
  2. Bubbles and irregularities – Many antique glass pieces have tiny bubbles or other imperfections in the glass. …
  3. Patina – Older glass usually has a patina of time and use.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

Determination of the age of glassware

Being able to recognize the pattern and color of your glassware can also give you a sense of its age. Manufacturers usually only created a pattern for a certain number of years. For example, if you know a pattern was made in the 1920s to 1940s, then you know your glass item is from that period. Vintage patterned Pyrex bowls are fairly easy to identify and date.

If you don’t know the pattern, you can also use stylistic details to get a sense of age. For example, a piece of Art Deco glass with geometric patterns probably dates from the 1930s or 1940s.

What is the mark for Anchor Hocking?

Anchor Hocking basically used only three markings over its history. The original “HG over Co” was used from 1905 until 1937, the “anchor over H” used from 1937 until 1968, and the “anchor in the square” mark used from 1968 until recently. The company has started using a stylizied “anchor over H” in the last few years.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

The Anchor Hocking Story Anchor Hocking first arose when Isaac J. Collins and six friends raised $8,000 to buy the Lancaster Carbon Company of Lancaster, Ohio when it was going bankrupt in 1905. The establishment of the company was known by all as the Black Cat of the Coal Dust. Mr. Collins, a native of Salisbury, Maryland, had been working in the decoration department of the Ohio Flint Glass Company when this opportunity arose. Unfortunately, the $8,000 raised was not enough to purchase and operate the new company, so Mr. Collins enlisted the help of Mr. E.B. Good. With a $17,000 check provided by Mr. Good, a building, two day tanks, and 50 employees, Mr. Collins was able to start the Hocking Glass Company’s operations at the Hocking Glass Company. The company, named for the Hocking River near which the plant was located, produced and sold about $20,000 worth of glassware in its first year. Production was expanded with the purchase of another day tank. This project was funded by the sale of $5,000 worth of stock to Thomas Fulton, who would become secretary and treasurer. Just when everything seemed to be going well, tragedy struck the company in 1924 when the Black Cat was reduced to rubble by a massive fire. Mr. Collins and his staff were not discouraged. They managed to raise funding to build what they called Plant 1 on the ashes of the Black Cat. This system was specially designed for the production of glassware. Later that same year, the company also acquired controlling interests in the Lancaster Glass Company (later called Plant 2) and the Standard Glass Manufacturing Company with plants in Bremen and Canal Winchester, Ohio. Developing a revolutionary machine that automatically pressed glass would save the company when the Great Depression hit. The new machine increased the production rate from 1 piece per minute to over 30 pieces per minute. When the stock market crash of 1929 hit, the company responded by developing a 15-mold machine that could produce 90 pieces of blown glass per minute. This allowed the company to sell mugs “two for a nickel” and survive the depression when so many other businesses disappeared. The Hocking Glass Company entered the glass container business in 1931 with the purchase of 50% of the General Glass Company, which in turn purchased the Turner Glass Company of Winchester, Indiana. In 1934, Hocking and its subsidiary developed the first disposable beer bottle. Anchor Hocking Glass Corporation was formed on December 31, 1937 when Anchor Cap and Closure Corporation and its subsidiaries merged with The Hocking Glass Company. Anchor Cap and Closure Corporation had closure plants in Long Island City, New York and Toronto, Canada, and glass container plants in Salem, New Jersey and Connellsville, Pennsylvania. Anchor Hocking Glass Corporation continued to expand into other manufacturing areas such as tableware, capping and sealing machinery, and toiletries and cosmetic containers through the expansion of existing facilities and the purchase of Baltimore, Maryland-based Carr-Lowry Glass Company and West Coast Maywood Glass. In the 1950s, the company established the research and development center in Lancaster, Ohio, purchased the Tropical Glass and Container Company in Jacksonville, Florida, and in 1959 built a new facility in San Leandro, California. In 1962, the company built a new glass container factory in Houston, Texas and added a second unit to the research and development center known as the General Development Laboratory. In 1963, Zanesville Mold Company of Ohio became a subsidiary of Anchor Hocking Corporation. The company designed and manufactured molding equipment for Anchor Hocking. The word “Glass” was dropped from the company name in 1969 as the company had grown into an international company with a never-ending product list. They had entered the plastics market in 1968 with the acquisition of Plastics Incorporated of St. Paul, Minnesota. They continued to expand their presence in the plastic container market with the construction of a facility in Springdale, Ohio. This line was designed for the production of blow-moulded plastic containers. Anchor Hocking Corporation entered the lighting space in September 1970 with the purchase of the Phoenix Glass Company of Monaca, Pennsylvania. They also purchased the Taylor, Smith & Taylor Company, based in Chester, West Virginia, to manufacture earthenware, porcelain stoneware, institutional china tableware, and commemorative plaques for collectors. There have been some changes in the company over the years. Phoenix Glass Company was destroyed by fire on July 15, 1978, Shenango China (New Castle, Pennsylvania) was purchased on March 28, 1979, Taylor, Smith & Taylor was sold on September 30, 1981 and incorporated on April 1, 1983 the company to divest its interest in the Glass Container Division to a subsidiary of Wesray Corporation. The Glass Container Division would be known as Anchor Glass Container Corporation with seven manufacturing facilities and an office in Lancaster, Ohio. Newell Corporation acquired Anchor Hocking Corporation on July 2, 1987. With this renewed inflow of capital, several facilities were modernized and some less profitable facilities were either closed or sold. The Clarksburg, West Virginia facility closed in November 1987, Shenango China was sold on January 22, 1988, and Carr-Lowry Glass was sold on October 12, 1989. Today, Anchor Hocking enjoys the financial backing and resources as one of 18 Newell decentralized companies that manufacture and market products in four primary markets: housewares, hardware, home furnishings and office products. You may recognize well-known Newell companies such as Intercraft, Levolor Home Fashions, Anchor Hocking Glass, Goody Products, Anchor Hocking Specialty Glass, Sanford, Stuart Hall, Newell Home Furnishings, Amerock, BerzOmatic or Lee/Rowan. In early 2001, Newell Corporation entered into negotiations with Libbey Glass to purchase and transfer Anchor Hocking Glass Corporation. After months of negotiations, Libbey Glass withdrew his offer despite strong objections from the federal government. Newell Corporation eventually sold several of its businesses, including Anchor Hocking Glass Corporation, to Global Home Products (GHP). GHP is owned by Cerberus Capital Management, which specializes in restructuring underperforming brands. Despite cost-cutting efforts in this struggling economy, Global Home Products and Anchor Hocking filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in April 2006, and Anchor Hocking’s assets were sold to a unit of Monomoy Capital Partners, a New York-based private equity firm. The future of Anchor Hocking is uncertain at this point. Anchor Hocking and Other Confusing Marks Anchor Hocking used essentially only three marks throughout its history. The original “HG over Co” marking was used from 1905 to 1937, the “Anchor over H” marking from 1937 to 1968, and the “Anchor in the Square” marking from 1968 until recently. The company has started using a stylized “anchor over H” in recent years. The marks are shown below. Federal Glass Company The “F in Shield” is often identified as the Fire King of Anchor Hocking; however, it is the trademark of the Federal Glass Company. Hazel Atlas The “capital H over small A” character is one of the most common misidentifications. The emblem was used by the Hazel Atlas Glass Company and not Anchor Hocking. Anchor Glass Container Company This company has both a confusing name and emblem. To compound the problem, the Anchor Glass Container Company now occupies many former Anchor Hocking Glass Company plants. The sign below was photographed at the former Anchor Hocking Glass Company facility in Salem, NJ.

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What is a hob star?

The hobstar is a motif that is found in countless cut-glass patterns. To some people its presence unfailingly identifies a pattern that was made during the American brilliant period of cut glass, but this is not true. In spite of its popularity we have yet to determine the time and place of its origin.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

hobstars

The cooking star is a motif that can be found in countless cut glass patterns. For some people, its presence unfailingly identifies a pattern made during America’s brilliant period of cut glass, but this is not true. Despite its popularity, we have yet to determine the time and place of its creation. The British glass scientist R. J. Charleston may have come closest to this goal when he wrote that “the elaborate star patterns were apparently [originally] written in Bohemian Biedermeier glasses…” (Charleston 1984, p. 201). Bohemia = Czechoslovakia; Biedermeier style = c1820-c1840.

The diagram on the left describes a typical Hobstar. It has twelve points, but one can find examples ranging from five points (diagram at right) to sixty, an example of which is given in Wiener and Lipkowitz (1975, p. 177). Two miter cuts are made at each point on the 12pt Hobstar, one in each direction (clockwise and counterclockwise). In this example, each miter cut connects the fifth point from the origin point, but this interval can be any size. The resulting hobstar has an area at its center, a hobnail. The miter cuts surrounding this plane nail give it a “raised” appearance. The hobnail can be – and usually is – cut with a different motif: for example a single star, strawberry colored (fine) diamonds, a Brunswick star (see discussion below) or even another hobstar. The hobstar’s hobnail can also be subjected to the rose-cut style, formerly used to cut precious stones, particularly diamonds, but now considered obsolete in this application. As this lapidary cut glass technique was also used more generally on hobnails which are not part of hobstars, it is discussed elsewhere (rose cut).

The hobnail of the hobstar is rarely found uncut (smooth) on American cut glass. This trait is more commonly associated with the United Kingdom, where the hobstar is known as the jewel star, with the uncut hobnail being the ‘jewel’ (Wilkinson 1968, p. 38). Occasionally, however, the British decorated the nail of the jewel star. In Hajdamach (1991, p. 368) a 20-point jeweled star is depicted with a single star on its nail, cut by Stevens and Williams around 1895. The motif is identical in all respects to an American Hobstar. Regrettably, Hajdamach calls this Stevens and Williams example a “pinwheel”. One hopes British glass collectors will not agree with him. (Hajdamach also shows an American cut glass bowl on p. 361, “with the characteristic pinwheel motif of American cut glass of the time.” The bowl has seventeen Hobstars, but there is no “pinwheel” in sight!)

When and where the term “Hobstar” was first used is not known, nor is the motif itself. The earliest use in American glass that the author has found to date is in the design granted to Edward J. Koch on May 20, 1902 (Patent #35,918). It is unusual to find a “technical” term like Hobstar in a patent specification. As a rule, these texts were written by lawyers who avoided this term by sometimes using very complex paraphrases. No law firm is mentioned in Koch’s patent application, so he may have written the description himself. The word ‘Hobstar’ is split between two printed lines, so it is not known whether it was spelled ‘Hobstar’ or ‘Hob-Star’. Dorothy Daniel preferred the latter spelling in her book published in 1950. The spelling of the word is interesting because it gives insight into the development of the motif. Originally, the motif was probably referred to as a plane nail cut star, or at least thought of it. This probably became Hobnail Star and then Hob Star (two words) because Hob is a short form of Hobnail. This would have been followed over time by hob-star and finally by hobstar. The single word emphasizes the uniqueness of the motif and can be easily modified: 16pt Hobstar, Multi-Pointed Hobstar, Middlesex Hobstar, etc.

Two points are worth noting regarding the use – or rather non-use – of the term ‘hobstar’. In 1889, Louis Dorflinger specifically referred to the hobstar cut at the base of a wine glass, a drawing of which accompanies Hawke’s patent application for his Brazilian pattern. Dorflinger called it a “patent star” (Spillman 1996, p. 93). Also, the multi-pointed Hobstar, which features prominently in Hawkes’ chrysanthemum pattern, became so popular that it was sometimes referred to as “chrysanthemum stars” when cut by other manufacturers. During those years, despite the ambiguity, the term “star” was usually applied to what we now call a hobstar.

The reader will probably notice that certain Hobstars are sometimes referred to as “Middlesex Hobstars”. This Hobstar – shown at right – consists of eight dots and is oriented in a way that the design resembles a Greek cross. (This type of star was a popular motif; it also appears on 19th-century quilts.) The original Middlesex hobstar – as in William C. Anderson’s Design No. 17.072 – has a second 8pt hobstar on its hobnail , as shown here. The Middlesex name comes from the name first given to this pattern, which was cut by the Libbey Glass Company at the time that company was based in East Cambridge, MA and was known as the New England Glass Company. This may have been the first use of the “Middlesex Hobstar” on American cut glass. When Dorothy Daniel published her book in 1950, she featured the pattern, but at the time the pattern’s catalog name was unknown. It was probably Daniel who first assigned the name ‘Middlesex’ to the pattern, probably because that name appears in the patent specification as the designer’s home county (and Middlesex County was also home to the glass company itself).

Due to the popularity of Daniel’s book with collectors of American cut glass, the Middlesex name was widely used. It was applied to other patterns by other companies when the patterns contained Hobstars similar to those in the Libbey pattern. And over time, the name has also come to be associated with the 8pt Hobstar itself. However, this Hobstar was not limited to patterns cut in this country, judging by a pair of 19th-century British decanters featured in The Magazine Antiques, September 1997, p. 261. These decanters may predate Anderson’s patent.

It is now known that Libbey’s catalog name for the “Middlesex” pattern is Victoria. This is not surprising as the pattern was patented in the year of Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee, 1887, and both the designer and the head of the glass company had connections to England. Before the pattern’s true name was discovered, patterns cut by other companies using this 8pt Hobstar motif were also often referred to as “Middlesex” or “Middlesex variant”. Their correct names are now also known, so there is no Middlesex pattern today. However, it is not likely that the term “Middlesex Hobstar” will disappear to be replaced by the more logical term “Victoria Hobstar”. Middlesex Hobstar is too established and cut glass collectors are traditionalists by nature.

Before leaving Daniel’s work it should be mentioned that she claims that the tailors at the Libbey factory called the Hobstar a ‘rosette’ (Daniel 1950, p. 163). Today, this term means different things to different people, and so should only be used informally, if at all, and where its meaning is not ambiguous.

The Victoria (formerly “Middlesex”) pattern is cut on a rose bowl which has an unusually thick blank. Likely cut at the New England Glass Company in Cambridge, MA before moving to Toledo, OH where it became the Libbey Glass Company. An unusual 7-point Hobstar in the base corresponds to seven pattern segments on the shell. D = 8″ (20.3cm), H = 6.5″ (16.5cm), Weight = 7lb (3.2kg). Sold for $385 in 1985 (Photo: Bill Jarvis).

Regarding multi-pronged hobstars

One of the earliest examples in this country of the multi-pointed Hobstar (having a number of points greater than the eight of the “Middlesex Hobstar”) is shown in the illustration accompanying the patented Parisian pattern designed by John S. O’. Connor, who has ceded the patent rights to his employer, C. Dorflinger & Sons. The patent, #16,676, was granted on May 4, 1886 for a fourteen-year term. Unlike other patents of the time, in his description the designer gave full attention to the multi-pronged hobstar in the base (middle) of the design, but without using the word “hobstar”. The patent’s illustration shows a 24 pt hobstar with a multi-rayed single star on its hobnail. In some versions of the pattern, this single star is replaced with a Brunswick star.

Another early example of a multi-pointed hobstar is seen on a “round flat diaper” cut in the Persian pattern by T.G. Hawkes & Co. The diaper has an impressive 32pt Hobstar at its center; his nail is irradiated. Since this illustration is “from vendors’ sample cards used in the early 1880s…”, cards which are “impossible to date precisely,” it is uncertain whether or not this example predates O’Connor’s design (Spillman 1996 , pp. 104, 176, figs. 8-27). Additional evidence is required. Another early Hawkes pattern, Cobweb, which was in production in 1885, is also an example of an early use of the multi-pronged hobstar, which is at the center of the pattern, that is, at the bottom of a bowl, bowl, or plate.

Although used in the pattern itself – and not just in the bottom of a bowl – by the late 1880s, the multi-pointed Hobstar was small and not particularly emphasized. It took T.G. Hawkes’ patented chrysanthemum pattern (1890) to change this. An abstraction of the familiar multi-petaled flower, the pattern truly celebrated the multi-pronged Hobstar, freeing it forever from a mere floor decoration use.

Contrary to popular belief, the multi-pronged Hobstar is not native to this country. It was in common use in England, where it was referred to as a “jewel star” in the 1880s and 1890s, according to Wilkinson, who comments that it “is not often seen on English glass, as that is a typically German cut.” (Wilkinson 1968, p. 38). The English hobstar’s nail is usually left uncut; it is the jewel of the star.

The earliest reference to a Hobstar in an American catalog to date is in the appendix to the 1884 catalog of the New England Glass Works, in the files of the Rakow Research Library. The supplement with its price list was probably printed in 1886. In this source are two examples of hobstars with radiating hobnails placed centrally in the bottom of two diapers. Each is surrounded by the Russian pattern (points 34 and 36 on page 13 of the supplement). The resulting patterns are both described as “Cut Russian & Glory Star”. Collectors looking for the earliest American reference to a Hobstar would therefore do well to look for “Glory Stars” rather than “Hobstars”. It is not known when the latter term was first printed, but it was probably many years after 1886.

Finally, it should be mentioned that several further developments of the Hobstar were developed. For example, a fan can be placed between its tips to create a flashed Hobstar (e.g. several Wilcox/Meriden patterns); the pair of miter cuts from each point may be double mitered resulting in a double mitered Hobstar (e.g. Libbey’s Toledo pattern); Instead of one set, two sets of miter pairs can be cut from each point, resulting in a double Hobstar (e.g. Dorflinger’s Windsor pattern); etc.

Braunschweig stars

Riddle: When is a Hobstar not a Hobstar? Answer: When it has lost its rolling head (nail). This may seem obvious, but many authors (including this one!) have ignored this fact and consequently incorrectly referred to stars without hobnails as “hobstars”. How this misunderstanding came about will be explained in detail after a few comments on the cut of this well-known motif, for which the historical name Braunschweiger Stern has been suggested.

The Brunswick star is developed from the single star, as shown in the 12pt example shown above left. Pairs of miter cuts are made in both directions (clockwise and counterclockwise) from each star point. This procedure is identical to that described in the Hobstars section; however, in practice the cutting of both the single star and the connecting miter cuts is fairly shallow. The resulting star on the top right looks like a hobstar, but since it’s based on the single star, it can’t have a hobnail. A Brunswick Star always has split points, but this is not an isolated case. It is possible to ‘split’ the tips on a Hobstar to create a decorative effect. However, the plane nail remains intact.

The single star gets its name from the apparent fact that there is only a single miter cut at each vertex of the star. A Hobstar has two miter cuts at each point and could therefore be called a “double star”. and because there are three miter cuts at each vertex of the Brunswick Star, it could again be called a “Triple Star”. All of these are possibilities, but only the term single star is ever used.

When the Pearsons listed the various cut glass motifs found in American cut glass in their several books, they called the Brunswick star a hobstar and ignored the fact that it lacks a hobnail. Therefore, many collectors and dealers today also combine the Hobstar and the nail-free “Hobstar” (i.e. the Braunschweig star) under the name Hobstar. But not everyone does this. Some writers have recognized that a hobstar without a hobnail must be something other than a hobstar. Accordingly, terms such as “flat star” and “zigzag star” have become established. The author believes that these new terms are not necessary as one already exists – the Brunswick Star, and he has history on his side.

The motif of the Braunschweig star is old. Hughes (1956, p. 195) shows a fine example, a 16-point Brunswick star on a Scottish Roman with an estimated date of ca. 1820. However, the motif does not appear to have been in common use in Britain during the 19th century, looking at the few examples found today, although British authors often mention it (Note 1). When and where the motif was first used is not known; its name indicates a German origin.

The Brunswick star is often dismissed as an insignificant, undesirable motif. This is unfortunate as the star is a unique motif and can play an important role in cut glass designs. Collectors are usually surprised to see that a large pattern like Hawke’s panel uses Brunswick stars instead of Hobstars.

Sultana pattern salad bowl cut by the J. D. Bergen Company, circa 1893, on mold no. 102. The pattern includes a chain of 16 pt Brunswick stars surrounding a 24 pt basal hobstar that has a 32 pt single star on its major hobnail. Single stars, strawberry (fine) diamonds, inner fans and fan shells complete the pattern. D = 8″ (20.3cm), H = 3.25″ (8.2cm), Weight = 3.25lb (1.5kg). Sold for $150 in 1985.

As with the Hobstar, the Braunschweiger Stern can also be cut into a double shape. It is constructed in the same way as the double Hobstar – that is, with two pairs of miter cuts radiating from each of the star’s points. A Braunschweig double star is shown on the right. (This motif could also be referred to as a “fivefold star”, but it never is!). The elaborate Brunswick double star is not a common sight, but the Libbey Glass Company sometimes used it on a hobstar’s hobnail in the early 1900s. A Libbey pattern that often, but not always, uses the Brunswick binary is the Somerset pattern. Libbey had a tradition of cutting the Brunswick star, both single and double versions, onto hobstars’ hobnails with great precision using a finely straightened wheel. In fact, this property can be used to identify unsigned Libbey cut glass from this period.

A NOTICE:

1. British writers have traditionally tended to take a cavalier attitude to the subject of cut glass, including cut glass motifs. When they write about motives, sometimes their inattention leads to confusion. (This is illustrated by the example of “hob nail cutting” described in note 1 of the diamond motif file.

In his book on English and Irish cut glass (Elville 1953, p. 28) and in his lexicon cited here, Elville erroneously equated the Brunswick and Jewel star motifs: “A favorite pattern (sic), for example, was the Braunschweiger Star, often called Jewel in technical jargon.” He then illustrates a Jewel Star (i.e. Hobstar), refers to it as the “Brunswick Star Emblem or ‘Jewel’” and describes it as “based on the Radiant Star (i.e. single star)”, which is the Jewel Star uniquely is not (Elville 1967, p. 70).

Newman (1977) attempts to define both the Brunswick Star and the Jewel Star, but he provides incomplete definitions that appear to be based on Elville’s work, relying on the number of points encompassed by the miter cuts that the form the tops of the stars. This number is of course arbitrary and not a determining factor. Newman correctly illustrates and designates a “jeweled star” – just as he correctly illustrates and designates “hob-nail-cutting” – but, as in this case, the illustration is separate from the definition and refers to a different entry in his dictionary. Although it is clear that both Wilkinson (1968) and Charleston (1984), British authors, understood the fundamental difference between the Brunswick Star and the Jewel Star, only Wilkinson provides an illustration, and that applies to only one of the motifs – that jewel star. See Hughes (1956, p. 195) for an example of the Brunswick star on British glass.

Updated May 1, 2007

Hobstars and Brunswick Stars (& “Flat Stars” too)

Associated Files: Hobstars and Brunswick Stars, Stars and Catalogues.

In our discussion of Hobstars and Brunswick Stars (the latter are sometimes erroneously referred to as “flat stars”), we realized that the two motifs are sometimes confused and that the term Brunswick Star has a different meaning when applied to, for example, coats of arms and Badge.

Wikipedia (the “free online encyclopedia”) was helpful in outlining the early history of the Brunswick Star. The definition given there is as follows:

The Brunswick Star is an emblem that is an eight- or sixteen-pointed star in outline but composed of many narrow rays. It is used in Britain to encircle the Royal Cypher on various badges such as: B. on the caps and helmets of almost all police forces. The name “Brunswick” is the English name for the German feudal country “Braunschweig” which was once ruled by the Hanoverian kings of Great Britain (George I to William IV). Therefore, the [name] of the emblem does not predate George I [reigned 1714 – 1727].

The points mentioned in this definition do not refer to the number of individual “narrow rays” but to the overall outline of the star. An example of this particular Brunswick Star, which we may call the Old Brunswick Star, is given in the motives9.htm file, where the overall outline consists of eight points; there are fifty-six narrow rays. One can easily imagine this representation as the source of the motif which we now call the radiant or radiant star. It’s not the Brunswick star that was used for cut glass in both Britain and the United States (as well as continental Europe) in the 19th century. Details about the birth of this Braunschweig star are currently unknown; most likely it is a question of very active Czech grinding works, which were in operation at the beginning of the 19th century.

The earliest example of the 19th century Brunswick star found so far by the author is shown below on a Roman found at Hughes, 1956 (Fig. 148, p. 197). Here is his full description, as quoted by Hughes on p. 200:

Teddy rummer with hemispherical bowl and reinforced handle connection. The short handle and pommel are faceted and rise from a circular star-cut base below. The elaborately cut bowl is surrounded by six circular fields, which are crowned with fire cut and below with oval facets. The fields alternately contain the Brunswick star (left) and a field of cross-cut diamonds (right), surrounded by rings of finely cut diamonds set with ring-cuts on both sides. Romans of this design were made by the Edinburgh and Leith Glass Company, Leith [Scotland] c.1820. Courtesy of Mr. John Bell

Note that while one sometimes finds the cross cut diamond cut on the diagonals of the larger diamond, in the present case these cross cuts are actually mitred through. In other words, the motif on the panels alternating with those containing Brunswick stars is the quarter-diamond motif found on American cut glass, but at a considerably later date than around 1820.

On the left side of the Roman the author has sketched a twelve-point Brunswick star, while the Hughes rummer has fourteen; otherwise the two motifs are identical. For comparison purposes, he added a regular 12pt hobstar with a plain hobnail to the right of the Roman. This was and is usually referred to in Britain as a jewel star, a term recognizing the hobnail of the hobstar (which is the ‘jewel’). Unfortunately, some authors call the Jewel Star a Brunswick Star, causing apparent confusion. This error underlines that motifs are not yet fully standardized internationally. Nonetheless, the Gem Star, along with the Brunswick Star, is usually considered to have originated in Central Europe, probably in the mid-19th century. In addition to British companies, the Baccarat company in France also used this type of Hobstar frequently during its own brilliant period (which coincided with the brilliant period in the United States).

It makes little sense to call a Brunswick star a “flat star”, but it has become fashionable. In fact, the flat star – illustrated in the motifs9.htm file in – is a distinct motif, cut in England in the 18th century. Let’s leave it at that!

Initially, the hobstar usually had a single star cut on its hobnail (informally referred to as a rayed), but the motif was soon styled with hobstars large enough to comfortably accommodate Brunswick stars, bringing these two motifs together. Otherwise, the hobnail of the hobstar is usually found intersected with the single star.

The example below shows a 20pt Brunswick star on the nail of a 36pt Hobstar as part of the design of the Montrose pattern (circa 1895) by C. Dorflinger & Sons (Image: Internet). Although the United States cannot claim to have “invented” the Hobstar, it can – with considerable justification – claim to have worked it out. American cutters sometimes flashed the hobstar with fans and added strawberry-colored (fine) diamonds to the hobstar’s tips or parted them with individual miters. And one can find other ornaments.

How can you tell real Waterford crystal?

To identify Waterford crystal, hold the item up the light and use a magnifying glass to locate an acid stamp that says “Waterford.” Alternatively, if the item was made after 2000, look for an acid stamp in the shape of a seahorse. You can also look for a gold sticker featuring Waterford’s green seahorse emblem.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

Civil war. William was captured and held in the Andersonville Stockade for 10 months. He returned to England and married Eliza in Lancashire. The crystal vase was a wedding gift. William and Eliza went to the US, took the vase with them and then returned to the UK. The vase was passed on to her daughter, then to my mother and finally to me. I would like to know if Waterford.”

…”

“My great-grandfather of two, William Malcolm, moved to the United States from Manchester, England while enlisting in the Army

Does all Waterford crystal have a mark?

Since 1950, each piece of Waterford crystal has been stamped with the company logo. Resembling a stencil pattern, the Waterford name is slightly opaque. On a wine glass, it’s found on the underside of the base. If the piece is older, a magnifying glass may be necessary to find the stamp due to wear.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

The Waterford hallmark is located under the base of authentic glasses. Credit: Ingram Publishing/Ingram Publishing/Getty Images See more photos

The sound of the elegant, expensive Waterford crystal hitting cement is bone-hard. Beauty gets destroyed, but for the right reason. Waterford Crystal’s factories must craft nothing less than perfection for sale – and parts that don’t make it onto the deck. The perfection of every Waterford item has been the hallmark of this century-old company since its beginnings in the late 18th century. As manufacturers around the world reproduce copies of the original, buyers need to be aware of the qualities that distinguish original Waterford crystal from the many imitators.

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The right stuff

Crystal is glass, but not all glass is crystal. In 17th-century London, glassmaker George Ravenscroft introduced lead to the glass-melting process. His tinkering with the metal-glass mixture resulted in lead crystal – a “crystal” clear, strong, durable compound that rings out to the touch of your fingers and feels warm in your hand. Glass cutters, noticing the strength of lead glass, began to embellish heavy pieces of it with intricate patterns and shapes. Waterford crystal is an example of such a pattern in fine, hand-cut lead crystal.

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Into the light

Unlike light glass, lead crystal is heavy. If you hold a piece up to the light it should be perfectly clear – a silvery white. Normal glass produces a yellow or green tint. The bases of most Waterford crystals have the word “Waterford” etched on the underside. Older Waterford crystals carried a green and gold sticker with the logo. However, this may have been removed after years of wear.

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The Waterford Stamp

Since 1950 each piece of Waterford crystal has been stamped with the company logo. The Waterford name resembles a stencil pattern and is slightly opaque. On a wine glass, it is on the underside of the base. If the piece is older, wear and tear may require a magnifying glass to locate the stamp. In 1987, a cursive stamp was developed that made it easier to apply to parts with limited space for stamping. At the end of the 20th century, to commemorate the millennium, Waterford incorporated its seahorse logo into the stamp. This seahorse’s tail curls outward and counterclockwise, and a shamrock forms at its center.

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The cut

The hallmark of Waterford crystal is the intricacy of the cut and the soft, rounded edges of every element in the design. No sharpness is found within the pattern; fingers glide smoothly from one shape to the next. Because light reflects off every facet, Waterford pieces sparkle. While several patterns unique to Waterford crystal are produced, replicas and fakes still exist – but the quality of the cut separates the real Waterford from the fakes. Verify a Waterford pattern at a reputable retailer before purchasing a piece.

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The Waterford box

Once manufactured exclusively in the city of Waterford, Ireland, the American-owned company also includes factories in Slovenia, the Czech Republic and Germany. If the piece was made in one of these four countries, it is more likely to be an original. The country of origin is printed on the carton label. At this time, no other country has a factory licensed to manufacture Waterford pieces. The gray and white Waterford Crystal box also features the seahorse logo above the registered Waterford name.

Are there markings on Waterford crystal?

The first way to tell an authentic piece of Waterford is to look for the Waterford acid mark. Using a magnifying glass, or holding the crystal up to the light, search for the stamp. It will most likely appear on the stem’s base, but can also be found in the grooves as well.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

The Waterford name stands for quality. Handcrafted more than 200 years ago in the city of Waterford, Ireland, this well-crafted glassware appeared in the homes of wealthy families across Europe and even attracted the admiration of the British Royal Family.

Waterford Crystal pieces are valuable because they contain very intricate design elements and the process to create them is both complex and labor intensive. The larger the piece, the more detail it contains and the more expensive it is to purchase. The cost of these works of art varies, with prices ranging from €35 for an ornate seahorse memorabilia to €11,350 for a 12-light crystal chandelier. Today, Waterford crystal is still hand cut and made with incredible love for the craft, and the stemware continues to be a highly sought after and collectible brand. Being able to distinguish authentic Waterford pieces from duplicates is a valuable skill and a must for anyone in the market for this beautiful crystalware.

Buy your own Waterford crystal in Ireland

One way to be sure your Waterford crystal is genuine is to buy it from a reputable, verified seller – and nowhere is more reputable than the Irish factory itself. It has a huge sales area with a stunning selection of Crystal pieces that you can buy and take home with pride.

Waterford glassware is the company’s most famous product, but they make beautiful cutlery, bowls and many other elegant pieces.

Identification by Waterford acid stamp

The first way to spot an authentic piece of Waterford is to look for the Waterford acid sign.

Look with a magnifying glass or hold the crystal up to the light to look for the stamp. It most likely appears at the base of the stem, but can also be found in the grooves. Pieces made before 2000 bear the company’s name in Gothic script, while newer pieces feature the company’s seahorse hallmark.

Identify Waterford Crystal with stickers

You can also identify Waterford crystal by the paper or foil sticker attached to the piece. Older pieces have a gold sticker with Waterford’s green seahorse logo. You can search online for authentic images to contrast and compare.

Because stickers can be removed from real pieces and placed on fakes, and may have long since been removed from older stemware, this alone is not the best way to guarantee a piece’s authenticity.

Check the quality of the crystal

If you can’t find an identification sticker, or if the acid stamp has worn away over time, you can also check if the piece is real crystal or ordinary glass.

First, hold it up to the light and see if the piece acts like a prism. If you rotate it slowly, it should reflect rainbows of color as the light diffuses. A typical piece of glassware produces no color. Next, put it to your ear and pat the edge; You should hear a high pitched chime as opposed to a hollow hit. Finally, hold the piece in your hand to feel the weight. A piece of crystal is significantly heavier than glass due to its high lead content.

Check the design

By consulting a professional expert or researching online, you should be sure that your piece will match an authentic Waterford design.

Master craftsmen are an amazing resource when it comes to verifying any piece, but especially one that is fairly old, unusually intricate, or very large, as these are the pieces that inevitably are worth more when in fact they are genuine.

Visit Waterford

A factory tour in Ireland lets you learn about Waterford’s history and see how the pieces are blown, cut and hand lettered. This optional excursion is available on YMT Vacations’ Best of Ireland tour. The 12-day escorted journey also offers a range of other unforgettable experiences – from Blarney Castle and the Ring of Kerry to Belfast and Giant’s Causeway.

Call 1-888-756-9072 to make your plans for this vacation of a lifetime.

What are crystal patterns?

The crystal pattern is thus the generalization of a crystal structure to any pattern, concrete or abstract, in any dimension, which obeys the conditions of periodicity and discreteness expressed above.

How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

Motif Crystalline (Fr). Infinite ideal crystal (Ge). Motivo cristallino (It).結晶模様 (Yes). Cristal ideal infinito (Sp).

Synonym: infinitely ideal crystal

An object in the n-dimensional point space En is called an n-dimensional crystallographic pattern, or crystal pattern for short, if one of its symmetry operations is involved:

there are n translations whose translation vectors t 1 , … , t n are linearly independent; all translation vectors, except the zero vector 0, have a length of at least d > 0.

When the crystal pattern is composed of atoms, it takes the name of crystal structure. The crystal pattern is thus the generalization of a crystal structure to any pattern, concrete or abstract, in any dimension, obeying the conditions of periodicity and discretion expressed above.

See also

How to create crystal pattern in illustrator cs6

How to create crystal pattern in illustrator cs6
How to create crystal pattern in illustrator cs6


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Pattern Identification Tips

A fascinating cutting technique used by the Tuthill firm causes the single stars in the bottom of their tumblers, sugars and creamers, vases, etc. to act as …

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Antique Crystal Stemware and Manufacturer Identification

An important step in identifying and appraising your antique crystal glass is learning how to identify the crystal maker. Antique crystal has been treasured and adorned by owners for more than 400 years, and its history is just as sparkling today. Learn all about crystal stemware identification to find out where your piece came from.

Identifying Crystal Manufacturers It is difficult to identify stemmed glass manufacturers who made glass between the 17th and 19th centuries. But by the 1820s, companies began to mass-produce crystal stemware with maker’s marks. There are several methods of identifying crystal stemware, but they vary in accuracy. The best way is to identify the pattern and manufacturer first. Related Articles Identify antique silverware samples and popular designs

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Crystal Stemware Manufacturer’s Marking You may not notice it at first glance, but most crystal stemware has some type of marking. A magnifying glass and holding the stemmed glass up to the light can help you spot and read the mark. You can find the mark on the rim or in the middle of the foot, on the stem or on the bottom of the bowl.

The character can be an initial, a logo, a word, or coded numbers and letters.

Some markings are molded or embossed, others are stamped or etched onto the glass (e.g. Waterford).

You can rub the mark by rubbing a pencil across a piece of thin paper placed on top of the mark to help you read it.

The Great Glass website has US and European stemware markers that you can search to identify yours.

Inkspot Antiques has a list of online resources where you can identify the marks of different manufacturers.

Stemware Pattern Helps Identify Manufacturer Manufacturers often used unique patterns or identified their specific products with pattern names and numbers. If you can identify the pattern of your stemware, it can direct you to the manufacturer’s information. Pattern names or numbers could be etched on the stemware.

If you can’t find a pattern name or number, write down details in the design pattern, such as: B. a faceted stem.

You can search online databases and collections to find features or patterns similar to yours to narrow down the manufacturer.

Replacements is the forefather of china and glassware stores, listing thousands of vintage and antique crystal stemmed glasses for sale. You can also use the free identification service.

Most Popular Crystal Stemware Manufacturers Knowing what names to look for can help you select pieces that are high quality and collectible. Some of the most famous crystal companies of the 17th and 18th centuries are: Baccarat have been making luxury crystal since 1822. His trademarks include etchings, cast marks and labels, so do your research before buying or selling your glass. Fostoria, in business from 1887 to 1986, was one of the leading crystal and glass companies and was known for depression glass and crystal. You can see many of their brands in the Glass Lovers Glass Database.

Gorham was founded in Rhode Island in 1831 and although it established itself as a silverware company, it also produces china and stemware and is highly sought after by collectors. Parts can be marked with labels or stamps.

Heisey was not in business for very long (1890s to 1950s), but the company was a major crystal manufacturer. They used a diamond H mark, but it can be difficult to find on stemmed glasses.

Founded in 1889, Lenox has a tradition of producing colorful crystal stemware for the table. They used printed marks and labels.

Waterford has been manufacturing crystal and stemware since 1783. Look out for the famous etched marks and labels.

The Basics of Antique Crystal Glass Antique glass does not have the same chemical composition as crystal. Fine crystal is glass to which lead has been added for brilliance and strength. Although people sometimes think of lead crystal as heavy (which it can be), lead also makes the glass strong enough to be spun or formed into thin shapes and remain resilient.

Identifying Crystal Stemware Versus Glass If the maker and pattern are unknown, try the following to determine if it’s crystal and not glass: tap the glass (and try to be careful). Crystal has a pleasant pinging sound while glass booms.

Hold the glass up to the light. Crystal can refract light and create a prismatic effect of rainbows while glass does not.

Crystal often feels heavier than glass, but stemmed glasses can still have thinner rims.

Bohemian crystal (often colored and enamelled) has been reproduced in large quantities, and a recent guide notes that glass cutters can leave an untreated cut in the piece (which appears cloudy) to let a buyer know it’s genuine.

Goblets are not fizzy glasses, water and wine do not always get along. By identifying the shape, you may be able to determine the use of the jar, which will help with identification.

Distinguishing Characteristics of Crystal Stemware Stemware comes in many shapes, and glasses are described by the shape of the bowl (which holds the liquid), the stem (which supports the bowl), and the base or foot. Some examples of crystal stemware shapes are: Baluster: This has a stem that thickens near the base

Bucket Bowl: A wide-mouthed container.

Air-twist stems: These were designed to make the piece lighter and therefore taxed less (glass was taxed by weight).

Facet Cut: The flat sections are cut away at the stems.

Buttoned (or knobbed) stems: These have bulbs or protuberances on the stems (and which made the goggles easier to hold).

Examples and Values ​​of Antique Crystal Stemware Antique examples (over 100 years old) of crystal stemware were made by many glass companies in the US and Europe. The older, highly decorated specimens can range in value from $1,000 to $4,000 or more per jar. Perhaps the most famous crystal stemware is from Waterford, with its sparkling crystals and rhythmic patterns

The American heyday (1880s to World War I) was known for the “bright” crystal glass and the elaborate cuts and decorations.

Glass made after the First World War is considered vintage, and in the 20th century antique crystal stemmed glasses were made by many companies including Cambridge.

1stdibs carries high-end pieces at moderate prices, including stemware. You’ll find complete sets here, like a 23-piece Val St Lambert Pampre D’Or wine crystal stemware set that was originally listed for $3,800.

Antiques Atlas is the UK online antiques and collectibles mall where this pair of Romans was offered for sale.

Caring for antique crystal Antique crystal is beautiful but requires special care. Preserve it for the future by taking proper care of it. Crystal is more porous than glass. Don’t leave it on the bottom of the glass with wine overnight, rinse it out immediately.

Hand wash with mild soap and never in the dishwasher.

When washing, place a folded tea towel on the bottom of the sink. This protects the fragile crystal from chips, nicks and breakage.

Rinse in water to which a little white vinegar has been added to give the crystal even more shine.

Dry with a soft towel and put away immediately.

Never place your crystal in a window or anywhere else subject to extreme temperatures: crystal is strong, but constant expansion and contraction from heat and cold can shatter the glass.

Horseshoe and Star design on bases of antique jelly glasses and tumblers

The “horseshoe & star” motif can be seen on the bases of jelly jars, mason jars and tumblers, most of which were probably made from around the 1900s to the 1930s. (Sometimes the asterisk is not present). These were probably made by a number of pressed glass tableware makers of the period.

Typically, these containers might be referred to as “jelly jars,” but in many cases they were most likely sold with prepared mustard, jelly, cream cheese, horseradish, peanut butter, or other food products.

Some examples feature cast letters or numbers, such as one of the jars pictured here with the letter ‘P’ embossed. They sometimes have a “knurl” encircling the diameter of the glass, with up to four separate bands or rings.

These pieces were often salvaged and reused as juice glasses or small drinking glasses. They are sometimes found in old garbage dumps from the early to mid 20th century. Sometimes they are sold as small drinking glasses at thrift stores or flea markets.

Because of their size, profile, and close resemblance to the clear glass “catch cups” used on old “Arcade” brands and other coffee grinders, they were sometimes referred to as “grinder cups” or “grinder jars” based on published information this website (link follows) they were probably not originally used for this purpose:

http://www.oldcoffeegrinders.com/replacement-parts.htm

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Glass makers who are said to have made these items with a horseshoe design on the base include: Indiana Tumbler & Goblet Company, Greentown, IN (1894-1903); Indiana Glass Company, Dunkirk, IN; Ball Bros. Glass Manufacturing Company, Muncie, IN (1888-1992); Fostoria Glass Company, Fostoria, OH (1887-1891) & Moundsville, WV (1891-1986); Monongah Glass Company, Fairmont, WV (1903-ca. 1929); and Hazel-Atlas Glass Company, Washington, PA, Wheeling, WV and other plant locations (1902-1964).

The Cambridge Glass Company, Cambridge, Ohio (1902-1959) is confirmed to have manufactured these glasses in the quantities illustrated in several of their early catalogues, including those published in 1906 and 1911. However, there is no sure way to be certain any particular example is a product of that particular lens manufacturer. Many of the molds used in Cambridge in the early years were actually older molds first used by other companies in the National Glass Company’s “Combine”. (Thanks to Mark A. Nye for permission to include patterns from Cambridge catalogs on this site, and also to Carol Roop for her help with researching these glasses).

Other small glasses of a somewhat similar shape (but not with a horseshoe on the bottom) can be found with brands such as those from Hazel-Atlas Glass Company and Capstan Glass Company, among others.

For an extensive list of glass maker brands featured on bottles, fruit jars, insulators, tableware and other items, please click here to go to the GLASS BOTTLE BRANDS alphabetical list (page 1).

Here is my website HOME PAGE.

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How to Identify Antique Crystal Stemware

Crystal is not only beautiful, it also sounds good. Tapping or clinking a crystal glass will produce a “ping” sound, while an ordinary glass will produce a dull sound. Another useful test is to wet your finger and run it over the edge of the crystal, which creates a tonal effect similar to a musical note. In addition, when light passes through real crystal, it creates a prism effect or a soft rainbow. When evaluating crystal glasses, note the cut and stems, which will help your appraiser identify your stemware and its maker. For example, Edinburgh crystal has oval cuts separated by criss-cross cut lines, while Waterford features faceted, prismatic stems with decorative cuts along the base of some glasses.

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