Do Chinchillas Drink Water? Best 268 Answer

If for any reason your chinchilla pet gets a little wet, don’t panic. Act instead. Dry her body yourself with a towel or with a hair dryer. Just make sure the dryer setting is on “low” as you don’t want to risk overheating your pet. Also, keep the dryer about 2 feet away from your chinchilla’s body. In the event that you have reason to believe your chinchilla is having water contact issues, contact your veterinarian immediately and without hesitation.

Q

Why do chinchillas bite?

A

In the wild, chinchillas are prey. They are hunted and killed by predators. The chinchilla’s first reaction to danger is to run or flee. Chinchillas generally live in rocky areas, so they retreat to a safe burrow in the rocks whenever possible.

This behavior changes when a chinchilla is in a cage. The confines of a cage can trick the chinchilla into believing there is no escape route. If no escape route is available, the chinchilla may bite the threat (often the owner’s fingers). This type of biting is most common when the pet owner tries to suddenly reach in to grab the chinchilla.

Chinchillas have long and extremely sharp front teeth. A bite can be severe, deep, and painful. If you are using some type of “chinchilla house” in the cage, make sure it has a front entrance and also a rear or side “escape entrance”. With no way to escape, the chinchilla may feel trapped and more likely to bite if an owner reaches into the “house.” If the owner provides an environment where the chinchilla does not feel threatened, chinchillas very rarely bite.

Gain your chinchilla’s trust

To avoid being bitten, take some time to gain the chinchilla’s trust. Put your hand and fingers right inside the cage door and leave them there for a few minutes. Get a chair so you can sit down. Most chinchillas are naturally curious and in time will stop by, sniff your hand and probably nibble some of it on your hand. Chinchillas will also nibble on jewelry, fingernails, and anything else that protrudes above the skin, such as scars or scabs.

Once the chinchilla comes to your hand willingly, try gently rubbing or scratching the chinchilla under the chin or on the side of the neck. At first the chinchilla can run further back into the cage, but in a short time the chinchilla will come forward again. Gaining that trust can take a few weeks. Over time, most chinchillas get used to being touched and are able to enjoy the scratching sessions.

Once the chinchilla is more relaxed around you, you can try lifting the chinchilla up by reaching under it. Some chinchillas don’t mind being picked up, but many never want to be picked up. If picking up the chinchilla is absolutely necessary, for example to examine an injury or to give the chinchilla a supplementary food, it can be a bit difficult to reach in and grab. However, if you have established a good level of trust beforehand, the chinchilla is not usually resentful and will come to scratch and pet after a while.

Other reasons for nips or bites

taste test

When a chinchilla smells a particularly delicious scent on your fingers, they may nibble gently on a “taste” or bite down harder, believing your finger is a delicious treat. This type of bite is not performed out of fear or anger. To prevent this, always wash your hands before handling your chinchillas.

personal hygiene

Sometimes chinchillas will gently nibble your hand, arm, or fingers. This is a type of grooming behavior that chinchillas usually do to each other. Usually one chinchilla will groom the other for a few minutes and then they’ll swap back and forth. Your chinchilla may nibble a bit and then stop. He’s waiting for you to return the favor. Often you can make some gentle scratches under the chin, between the front paws, around the neck, down the back or even around the face.

communication

Occasionally, when a chinchilla doesn’t want to be held anymore or needs to urinate, it might nibble your hand gently a few times and might even emit a squeak or two. To make the point, if you ignore these nips, your chinchilla may nibble harder, or there may be an “accident” on your lap.

By: Marty Hull

Featured image: Courtesy of Marty Hull

What Do Pet Chinchillas Eat?

Chinchillas require a high-fiber diet and should be offered their choice of grass hay (such as timothy hay or other low-calcium hay such as orchard grass, oat hay or meadow hay) (available 24 hours a day). Hay should be the main part of their diet. Although alfalfa can be offered occasionally, it should not be used as the sole source of hay as it is too high in calcium and could lead to the formation of calcium-containing bladder stones. Additionally, chinchillas can be fed a small amount (1-2 tablespoons per day) of a commercially available pelleted chinchilla diet.

“Alfalfa hay is too high in calcium and could lead to the formation of calcium-containing bladder stones.”

Because chinchillas have relatively delicate digestive tracts, any necessary dietary changes should be made slowly over several days to reduce the risk of gastrointestinal problems.

Do I need to give my chinchilla vitamins?

With proper feeding, chinchillas do not need additional vitamins.

Can I offer treats to my chinchilla?

Usually, chinchillas do not require treats, but they do occasionally require a variety of fresh, low-calcium green vegetables or the occasional piece of high-fiber fruit (such as a slice or apple). Do not offer food to anyone without first consulting your veterinarian.

How much water do chinchillas need?

Fresh, clean water must be available at all times. Depending on the quality of your tap water, you may want to consider using bottled water. Water tanks must be cleaned thoroughly with soap and water daily. Most owners choose to offer water through a drinking bottle suspended in the cage, since water bowls are easily soiled and often spill. Wash and rinse the bottle when you change the water (at least daily) and check that the sipper tube isn’t clogged with food. Fresh water should be offered daily, even if water is left in the water bottle, as bacteria and yeast can build up in bottles if the water is not changed.

Chinchillas are native to the Andes of Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina, most are actually found in areas cold enough to be above the snow line. That’s why they’ve developed such a lush, thick coat. In the wild, chinchillas live in crevices, between rocks and in burrows. They are very social animals and live in colonies of up to 100 chinchillas. This gives them added protection from natural predators and helps to have a community in which to raise their young and keep the population diverse enough to continue on their own.

Chinchillas are amazing climbers/jumpers. Their powerful legs allow them to jump from rock to rock, while their stiff, solid tail helps them balance. In the wild, chinchillas are not the colors you will see in captivity. They are light gray in color, which helps them blend in with their natural habitat so they can be more easily concealed. Their dense fur not only keeps them warm from the harsh cold temperatures, but is also thick enough to help them avoid common parasites like fleas. Their fur also serves another purpose – chinchillas can “slip” their fur when they are frightened and need to escape. This fur gets in the eyes and mouths of predators to give chinchillas time to escape their enemies.

Because chinchillas come from very dry, arid habitats, they don’t drink a lot of water. In the wild, their water consumption is primarily from drinking morning dew condensed on rocks. They also keep their fur clean by rolling in sand and dust (much like in captivity). Due to their nocturnal nature, their eyesight is not wonderful. They rely primarily on their long whiskers and their own innate sense of their surroundings to get around.

Chinchillas are now listed as vulnerable and legally protected from hunting; However, their habitat continues to be destroyed. Grazing animals, logging and mining are damaging the last known habitat of this endangered species. The chinchilla (Chinchilla laniger) was first described in 1782 by Moline, the pioneering naturalist of Chile, and was widespread in the Andes of northern Chile and Argentina, and southern Peru and Bolivia until twenty or twenty-five years ago. Here, then, was their home—many miles from the people and their works. They held their ground, as God intended, against the predations of their natural enemies, the quiques or weasels, foxes, wildcats, and birds of prey. Having no means of defense against these enemies, their safety lay in flight and in holes and crevices between the rocks. God equipped them to propel themselves over uneven ground, giving them long hind feet and legs so they could leap from rock to rock and a long, feathered tail to act as a balance and rudder as they flew through the air sailed.

In some hole or crevice under a pile of boulders, each pair gave birth to one to three young to a litter, and is said to have had two litters a year. God also provided them with a thick, warm, gray cloak, for the mountain winds are cold and piercing, and the same cloak was the cause of their downfall. When M’Lady expressed her desire for the chinchillas’ fur, Mann and his dogs invaded their rocky homes. Wild dogs’ faces peered into their burrows and Man brought their worst enemy, the Quiqui, whom he had defeated and trained to work for him, to drive them off. Where the chinchilla had found safety under overhanging boulders, they now found death in the form of a trap four. This pursuit lasted only a few months of the year when their cloaks were heaviest and thickest, but once begun it never stopped until only a few shriveled corpses remained to speak silently of what had been.

Chinchillas are herbivorous animals (i.e. they only eat plant food) and like most other rodents, have a complicated and delicate digestive system. You will find that they tend to feed early in the morning or late at night. Although individual needs will depend on your pet’s age, lifestyle, and health status, here are the most important factors to consider when caring for chinchillas:

Chinchillas have a very delicate digestive system and in the wild they will eat grasses, leaves, twigs, roots and stems. As pets, chinchillas need a high-fiber diet based on grasses and hay to keep their digestive systems functioning properly.

Also, extra hay should be available to your chinchilla at all times to aid in digestion.

Chinchillas’ teeth grow throughout their lives and need to be worn down and kept in the correct length and shape by eating grass and hay. If they are not fed the right diet, it can lead to serious dental disease.

It is not advisable to make sudden changes to your chinchilla’s diet as this can make them very ill. Always introduce new diets gradually.

Fresh, clean water must always be available. There are water bottles for chinchillas on the market and you just need to make sure you check the water level regularly. The bottle should be clean and the water should be changed daily. You should also make sure that your chinchilla can easily reach and drink from the bottle.

A sign of a healthy chinchilla is if it eats every day and sheds a lot of dry poo. Always keep an eye on how much your chinchilla is eating and drinking. If you notice a change in your pet’s eating/drinking habits, or reduced or no faecal production, contact your veterinarian immediately as your pet could be seriously ill.

Like rabbits and guinea pigs, chinchillas use a digestive process called caecotrophy to extract as much goodness as possible from their food. Put simply – they eat their feces (caecotrophs), which allows food to be eaten again!

Chinchillas can suffer from obesity if they are not fed the right food, which can lead to many other health problems. The common cuprits are too many treats or too much kibble with too much sugar.

There are a number of foods that are toxic to chinchillas, so always check before you feed them. DO NOT FEED your chinchilla the following: asparagus, avocado, peas, cabbage, corn, lettuce, broccoli, spinach, rhubarb, and rhubarb leaves. Other dangerous foods are bananas, sunflower seeds and peanuts. This list is not exhaustive, and when in doubt as to whether something is safe to feed, it is best to avoid it.

Your chinchilla with: asparagus, avocado, peas, cabbage, corn, lettuce, broccoli, spinach, rhubarb and rhubarb leaves. Other dangerous foods are bananas, sunflower seeds and peanuts. This list is not exhaustive, and when in doubt as to whether something is safe to feed, it is best to avoid it. There are a number of nutritionally balanced diets for chinchillas on the market. Manufacturers have experts available to advise you on what to buy for your chinchilla and how much and how many times a day to feed it. So, reach out to them directly for more advice on specific products. A list of PFMA members who manufacture pet food for small furries can be found here.

Chinchillas were prized for their beautiful fur long before they became pets. Water doesn’t really penetrate the extremely dense fur, so getting a chinchilla wet to clean it isn’t a good idea.

These naturally clean animals need dust baths to keep their coats in good condition and to avoid tangles or odors. Only use dust specifically marketed for chinchillas and available at pet stores. Place a few inches of the dust in a large pan, then let your chinchilla get to work. Let your pet use their dust bath about three times a week for 15 to 20 minutes each time.

Too much dust bathing can irritate their eyes and dry out their fur. Also, you would have even more dust in your house. There is no getting around the dust when keeping chinchillas.

August 20, 2019

Dust Til Dawn: Chinchillas and Their Dust Baths

Written by Dianne Cook, LVT

Chinchillas are one of the most fascinating (not to mention adorable) exotic companion mammals we’ve ever brought into our homes. With thick, ultra-plush fur, a squirrel-like tail, and big, soulful eyes, it’s almost impossible not to fall completely in love with these docile little creatures. Adding a chinchilla (or better yet, two) to your furry family will surely provide years of entertaining company, but there are some unique facets to their care that are necessary to keep them healthy. One of the most misunderstood aspects of pet chinchilla parenting is a chinchilla’s need for regular access to dust baths.

Chinchillas retain their enviable, luscious locks thanks to sheer density. They have an average of 60-70 hairs sprouting from each follicle, giving them the title of having the densest coat of any land mammal. In comparison, most mammals, including humans, only produce one hair per follicle! As you can imagine, this thick, luxurious coat performs several key functions, but doesn’t dry easily. Therefore, it is best to avoid letting chinchillas get wet, as moisture can become trapped near the skin, which can lead to several types of skin diseases, including pyoderma (skin infection) and dermatitis (skin inflammation). Instead of soap and water, chinchillas “bathe” in fine dust that helps evenly distribute natural oils, removes dirt and debris, and keeps their fur silky soft.

In their native, arid habitats in the mountainous regions of South America, chinchillas use volcanic ash to keep themselves clean. Although most chinchilla parents don’t live in an area that offers natural access to this particular type of ash, prepackaged products are available. However, just like with diet, it is important to choose a product that not only meets your chinchilla’s needs but is also of high quality. It is important to find a product that is made from 100% volcanic ash and has been sourced and manufactured without the use of chemicals. There are many different quality chinchilla dust products on the market. Some have a coarser consistency, similar to sand, but it’s important to choose a quality product with finer, silky particles. Sand isn’t nearly as effective at absorbing the natural oils that chinchillas produce, and the grains can become lodged at the hairline, potentially causing skin irritation and/or infection. Because of this, it’s important to only use high-quality chinchilla volcanic dust and never use sand or dust-like products that are packaged for other exotic pets, no matter how similar they look.

Chinchillas are naturally active and agile creatures, and when given a dust bath, they instinctively twist, roll and flutter, kicking up generous feathers as they work the dust from hair tip to root. In fact, they are so efficient at their dusty dance that an inch of dust in the bottom of a proper dust bath enclosure is enough to ensure complete coverage. Many pet parents use bowls or litter boxes for their little ones’ dust baths, while others opt for enclosed plastic or wooden bathhouses to contain some of the dust. When choosing a dust bath container, the most important thing is that it’s both strong and slightly larger than the chinchilla itself, leaving enough room for its dust-wielding acrobatics.

Excessive bathing can cause chinchillas’ skin, feet, and ears to dry out, so it’s important to limit bathing time to 2-4 times a week, depending on the needs of each individual chinchilla. In very hot, humid weather or climates, chinchillas often need access to their dust baths about four times a week. In cold weather or otherwise dry environments, they may only need to bathe twice a week. It’s also important to control the amount of time your chinchilla has access to their bathroom. Usually 3-5 minutes at a time is sufficient. If left in a chinchilla’s enclosure for too long, a dust bath will often be mistaken for a litter box, so it’s best to remove the dust container as soon as your fur baby is done bathing. It’s perfectly acceptable to reuse dust for multiple baths, but it should be discarded once it starts to clump or becomes dirty.

Aside from the hygienic reasons above, dust baths also provide a great source of mental and physical enrichment for our fun little friends, and offer pet owners a great way to strengthen that all-important animal-human bond. It’s also important to remember that every pet is unique, and should your chinchilla ever develop any skin or coat problems, it’s always best to consult a trusted veterinarian. Have fun bathing and let the dust fly!

Health and Welfare of Chinchillas

To ensure your pet chinchillas a happy, healthy life, here’s how to give them the care and attention they need.

Buy chinchillas

Before you buy a chinchilla, find out more about its rearing, care and diet. Make sure you know if they’ve had any health or behavioral problems before you buy them, and ask a veterinarian if you’re unsure.

Caring for your chinchillas

Make sure you feed your chinchillas the right diet – this should consist mostly of hay and grass which will help prevent many common problems such as dental and intestinal diseases.

Check that your chinchillas are eating every day and that they are passing lots of dry droppings. Keep track of the amount and type of food they eat and how much they drink. If their eating or drinking habits change, or their poop volume decreases or stops, contact your veterinarian immediately as they could be seriously ill.

Provide your chinchillas with a flat tray of clean, fine sand or chinchilla dust to bathe in and keep their fur in good condition. Remove after use or clean through a sieve to avoid contamination.

Chinchilla Health Checks

Chinchillas have pain thresholds similar to humans, but are not good at showing outward signs of pain and can suffer a lot before you realize it. Changes in their normal behavior can be early signs that they are sick or in pain, but because chinchillas sleep during the day, you may not be as quick to notice when they are unwell. If your chinchillas aren’t eating or are quieter than usual, they are most likely ill or in pain.

Check your chinchillas every day for signs of illness or injury, and ask someone else to check them when you’re not around. Watch their behavior in the evenings or at night when they are most active.

Signs of illness or injury include:

sore feet

moisture around the eyes or mouth

Loss of fur around the eyes or mouth

See a veterinarian immediately if you suspect your chinchilla is in pain, sick, or injured. Take them for routine vet check-ups at least once a year, and consider getting pet insurance to cover unexpected vet bills.

Only treat your chinchillas with medicines recommended by a veterinarian, as medicines intended for other animals are dangerous to chinchillas.

Signs your chinchilla is stressed

Chinchillas that are scared or in pain may change their behavior or develop undesirable habits, such as aggression or hiding. Stressed chinchillas are more likely to get sick.

Here are some signs to look out for that may show your chinchilla is stressed:

Fur stains come off during handling

loosen during handling. Make noises like barking or whistling

, such as barking or whistling, hiding

Chew your own fur or the fur of other chinchillas

or the fur of other chinchillas, changes in their feeding or toilet habits

or toilet habits Excessive drinking or playing with bottled water

or playing with water bottles Reluctance to move

Repetitive movements such as B. running back and forth on the cage floor

If your chinchilla’s behavior changes or regularly shows signs of stress or anxiety, seek advice from a veterinarian or clinical animal behaviorist.

Most people who know anything about chinchillas know that they take dust baths instead of regular baths. Even if you don’t know anything else about these adorable rodents, you probably already know that. But why is it so important not to bathe chinchillas normally, or to wet them at all? Do chinchillas die if they get wet? That may sound extreme, but it shouldn’t be completely outlandish either. Here are the things you need to know about getting chinchillas wet.

What happens when chinchillas get wet?

It can be extremely dangerous for a chinchilla to get wet, even just a little bit. A single drop of water is not a cause for great alarm, but any excess is dangerous. There are two main reasons why it can be so dangerous for a chinchilla to get wet, and both reasons are related to the chinchilla’s famous coat.

Chinchis have a deceptively soft fur. The softness of the coat makes the coat feel like it should be light, but their coats are extremely dense and densely filled with hair. The density of the coat can result in a lot of moisture being trapped deep in the coat and drying very slowly.

The perfect environment for bacteria and fungi

What happens when you have a coat that dries slowly is that it creates the perfect environment for fungus and some bacteria to grow. If you run a load of laundry and forget about it until the next wash day a week later, you’ll immediately notice the foul smell of the damp clothes. A similar thing happens with a chinchilla that gets wet because the fur doesn’t dry properly. Fungal and bacterial skin infections can be deadly for an animal as sensitive as a chinchilla.

Lower body temperatures are dangerous

The other problem that arises when a chinchilla gets wet is that the moisture that collects near the skin lowers its body temperature. This can make it almost impossible for the chinchilla to maintain a safe body temperature. These animals are very sensitive to temperature changes and don’t do well in extreme temperatures, so staying wet and cool can quickly kill them. The stress of staying moist and cool can also weaken the immune system, leading to an increased risk of infections like developing pneumonia.

Why do chinchillas take dust baths?

Because chinchillas really shouldn’t get wet, they need a way to maintain a clean, healthy coat. They achieve this via dust baths. “Dust” is a bit of a misnomer because the dust that wild chinchillas bathe in tends to be fine sand made up of small particles of things like clay, volcanic glass, and rock. Commercial chinchilla dust often consists of volcanic ash. Chinchillas wallow in this dust to distribute natural oils to their skin and coat, removing dirt and keeping the coat lush and healthy. Dust baths do not pose the same risks that a regular water bath would pose for a chinchilla.

What to do if your chinchilla gets wet

Finally

There are challenges that come with keeping a chinchilla due to the fragile nature of these cute animals. One of the most important aspects of caring for a chinchilla is making sure it stays dry and healthy. Getting your chinchilla wet can be deadly, so it is imperative that you maintain a secure enclosure where your chinchilla will not accidentally get wet. Stick to dust baths for your chinchilla and enjoy the show they put on at dust bath time.

Selected image source: Natalis.ph, Shutterstock

Your chinchilla will happily groom itself on a regular basis, but you need to provide the right materials for a proper bath. Dust baths are chinchillas’ way of cleaning their fur. Two or three times a week, place about an inch of chinchilla dust in a box or other open container large enough for your chin to roll around in, then let it get to you. Of course he knows what to do and spends about 10 to 15 minutes in his dust bath. Remove the shell after your chinchilla is done grooming in it. Bathing in dust more than a few times a week can dry out the skin on your little chin.

Your chinchilla will happily groom itself on a regular basis, but you need to provide the right materials for a proper bath. Dust baths are chinchillas’ way of cleaning their fur. Two or three times a week, place about an inch of chinchilla dust in a box or other open container large enough for your chin to roll around in, then let it get to you. Of course he knows what to do and spends about 10 to 15 minutes in his dust bath. Remove the shell after your chinchilla is done grooming in it. Bathing in dust more than a few times a week can dry out the skin on your little chin.

Chinchillas are native to the Andes of Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina, most are actually found in areas cold enough to be above the snow line. That’s why they’ve developed such a lush, thick coat. In the wild, chinchillas live in crevices, between rocks and in burrows. They are very social animals and live in colonies of up to 100 chinchillas. This gives them added protection from natural predators and helps to have a community in which to raise their young and keep the population diverse enough to continue on their own.

Chinchillas are amazing climbers/jumpers. Their powerful legs allow them to jump from rock to rock, while their stiff, solid tail helps them balance. In the wild, chinchillas are not the colors you will see in captivity. They are light gray in color, which helps them blend in with their natural habitat so they can be more easily concealed. Their dense fur not only keeps them warm from the harsh cold temperatures, but is also thick enough to help them avoid common parasites like fleas. Their fur also serves another purpose – chinchillas can “slip” their fur when they are frightened and need to escape. This fur gets in the eyes and mouths of predators to give chinchillas time to escape their enemies.

Because chinchillas come from very dry, arid habitats, they don’t drink a lot of water. In the wild, their water consumption is primarily from drinking morning dew condensed on rocks. They also keep their fur clean by rolling in sand and dust (much like in captivity). Due to their nocturnal nature, their eyesight is not wonderful. They rely primarily on their long whiskers and their own innate sense of their surroundings to get around.

Chinchillas are now listed as vulnerable and legally protected from hunting; However, their habitat continues to be destroyed. Grazing animals, logging and mining are damaging the last known habitat of this endangered species. The chinchilla (Chinchilla laniger) was first described in 1782 by Moline, the pioneering naturalist of Chile, and was widespread in the Andes of northern Chile and Argentina, and southern Peru and Bolivia until twenty or twenty-five years ago. Here, then, was their home—many miles from the people and their works. They held their ground, as God intended, against the predations of their natural enemies, the quiques or weasels, foxes, wildcats, and birds of prey. Having no means of defense against these enemies, their safety lay in flight and in holes and crevices between the rocks. God equipped them to propel themselves over uneven ground, giving them long hind feet and legs so they could leap from rock to rock and a long, feathered tail to act as a balance and rudder as they flew through the air sailed.

In some hole or crevice under a pile of boulders, each pair gave birth to one to three young to a litter, and is said to have had two litters a year. God also provided them with a thick, warm, gray cloak, for the mountain winds are cold and piercing, and the same cloak was the cause of their downfall. When M’Lady expressed her desire for the chinchillas’ fur, Mann and his dogs invaded their rocky homes. Wild dogs’ faces peered into their burrows and Man brought their worst enemy, the Quiqui, whom he had defeated and trained to work for him, to drive them off. Where the chinchilla had found safety under overhanging boulders, they now found death in the form of a trap four. This pursuit lasted only a few months of the year when their cloaks were heaviest and thickest, but once begun it never stopped until only a few shriveled corpses remained to speak silently of what had been.

If you are a new owner you may be wondering, do chinchillas need bedding? This question is easy to answer. Yes! Bedding or bedding for chinchillas is an essential supply for your chinchilla’s cage. It is used to absorb urine and helps reduce mess and odor. You’ll need some sort of bedding or litter for your chinchilla pet, whether you use a cage with a pull-out tray or litter bowl, or your chin is trained to use a litter box.

As with all things your chinchilla comes into contact with, you should make sure you choose a chinchilla bedding that is safe for your pet. You should keep an eye on the materials of the linens and avoid anything with artificial colors or fragrances. In this article, we cover the types of bedding that are safe, what to avoid, and recommendations on brands to buy.

Some chinchilla owners are forgoing traditional disposable bedding in favor of a more eco-friendly option. Fleece chinchilla cage and shelf liners are a washable and reusable alternative that can make cage cleaning easier.

Bedding and bedding for chinchillas

Safe bedding and bedding options for chinchillas

The following materials are safe to use as bedding for chinchillas:

Oven Dried Pine Shavings

aspen

Fleece cage liners

Unsafe chinchilla bedding

You should never use bedding made from any of these materials:

Carefresh or other paper-based bedding

cedar

Mixed wood chips

Pine litter that does not specifically say “oven dried”.

Synthetic bedding

corn cob litter

cat litter

You should also avoid bedding that has added fragrances or scents, or anything that has been dyed or bleached. Scents and colors are added for owners to make the litter “prettier,” but they are actually bad for your chinchilla pet. Always avoid “clumping” litter made for cats.

If your chinchilla has ready access to bedding or bedding, it will likely chew or eat some of it. This is fine as long as you use safe bedding and they don’t eat large amounts.

Why are paper litter and Carefresh dangerous for chinchillas?

Many pet stores sell and market paper-based bedding for chinchillas, and many new owners buy them without realizing there is a hazard. Paper litter is not poisonous but becomes dangerous when chinchillas eat it. If they eat enough of it, the litter can cause an intestinal obstruction. Paper sheets usually swell when they get wet, so even a small amount can be fatal. When their digestive system stops moving, they can develop GI stasis, which needs to be treated quickly to prevent death.

The only scenario where it would be okay to use paper based bedding for chinchillas would be in a tray that the chinchilla does not have access to. But when you consider how expensive Carefresh is compared to aspen litter or fleece liners, why spend the extra money?

Recommendations for chinchilla bedding and bedding

The exact type of bedding you choose for your chinchilla depends on many factors. Cost is often a big factor when choosing a bedding for chinchillas. Odor and dust can also influence your choice. You may also find that your chinchilla prefers one type of bedding over the others, or is sensitive to aspen.

You may have to try a few different types until you find the one that works best for you. Here are our recommended best bedding for chinchillas by type.

Aspen chinchilla bedding

So Phresh Natural Aspen Linens

This is a great option for chinchilla litter. This aspen bedding is low-dust to help you keep your home clean and won’t irritate your chin’s airways. It is also 100% eco-friendly and biodegradable. Works well for chinchillas and other small pets.

Quantity: 8.1L, 56.6L

Kaytee Aspen bedding for chinchillas

Kaytee also sells a natural, biodegradable aspen litter for small pets like chinchillas. They promise excellent odor control and 99% dust-free bedding. Unlike the previous litter, this one is made of sheared aspen. The largest size (8 cubic feet) is usually the best price you’ll find for aspen bedding.

Quantity: 1200 Cubic Inches, 1250 Cubic Inches, 4 Cubic Feet, 8 Cubic Feet

Oven dried pine chinchilla bed linen

FM Brown’s Pine bedding for chinchillas

FM Brown is an affordable pine bedding that works well for chinchillas. It is made from kiln dried pine wood and is 100% biodegradable. It is highly absorbent and virtually dust free. Some reviewers have said that it’s rougher than other pine litter, so you might only want to use it if your chinchilla cage has a wire floor so it doesn’t touch the litter. Made from American wood.

Quantity: 4 cubic feet

Kaytee Pine bedding for animal cages

Kaytee’s pine litter is a great option when shopping for chinchilla bedding. Their pine shavings are all natural and made in the USA. Kaytee uses a special process to remove dust and wood debris, leaving a soft base. Because they are made with no artificial colors or additives and the pine is kiln dried, this bedding is safe for your chinchilla.

Quantity: 600 Cubic Inches, 1200 Cubic Inches, 2500 Cubic Inches, 4 Cubic Feet

Cat litter boxes and pans for chinchillas

While many chin owners fill the entire bottom of their cage with litter to hold urine, some people choose to litter train their chinchillas. This helps reduce bedding costs and means there is less floor space to clean in the cage. One of the essential parts of litter training your pet is choosing a good chinchilla litter box.

Most litter boxes manufactured and marketed for small pets are made of plastic. Because chinchillas are such voracious chewers, it’s not a good idea to have a plastic litter box. Instead, you may need to think outside the box a little and consider metal and ceramic items. Here are some options to consider:

Metal and stainless steel litter boxes

Quality Cage Crafters Chinchilla Metal Litter Box

If it fits your budget, I recommend this all-metal litter box from Quality Cage Crafters. This square litter box is designed to minimize clutter and reduce cage cleaning time. It comes with mounting hardware so you can place it anywhere in your jawline. The built in urine guard ensures no accidental splashing occurs outside the cage and the grid keeps the litter inside reducing clutter. The trellis is a must if your chin is eating its litter or it’s constantly kicking through the cage.

Dimensions: 1.5″ deep, 8″ wide, 8″ long, 5″ high Stray Guard

Colors: Silver Vein, Black, Stardust, Quality Blue, Teal, Pink, Purple

While it can be difficult to find metal litter boxes at pet stores, you can easily find something that works in the cooking section of many online stores. Steam table pans, which are made of stainless steel and come in a variety of sizes, work well for chinchilla toilets. They are affordable and easy to clean.

Suggested sizes would be 4″ half size (7 quart capacity) for single chinchillas and 4″ full size (14.5 quart capacity) for cages with more than one chin.

One downside to using a stainless steel pan is that it’s easy for your chinchilla to accidentally tip over if you don’t secure it to the side of the cage.

Ceramic litter boxes for chinchillas

Another fantastic option for a chinchilla litter box is to reuse a ceramic (or even glass) baking dish or casserole dish. Ceramic dishes are easy to clean and generally heavier, making it harder for your chinchilla to kick or knock them over and make a mess. You might even have something in your kitchen cupboards that’s already gathering dust that’s perfect for that. If not, you can easily buy something online or in most stores.

The types of items to consider would be a ceramic ramekin (if you can find one big enough) or a casserole dish. Another good option is a ceramic or glass cake pan, but since the sides are lower, your chin could knock out used litter and mess up the cage.

Make sure your chinchilla’s cage is stocked with all the accessories he needs. Check out the best water bottles and food bowls for chinchillas.