Dog Ate Dead Bird With Maggots? Trust The Answer

Barkley snuggles up on the couch with you, he’s so happy to see you! But when he bends over to you, his breath almost knocks you out!

If your dog has bad breath or has caked up on something disgusting — poop seems to be a favorite thing for dogs to put in their mouth — you might want to clean their mouth. Not only does your dog need regular dental care and cleaning, but sometimes their gums, cheeks and tongue can harbor dirt and bacteria and smell pretty awful!

There are several methods of cleaning your dog’s mouth, including regular brushing of teeth, wiping your dog’s mouth by hand, and giving your dog mouthwashes or dental procedures that disinfect, clean, and remove unsightly or smelly residue. Remember that a dog’s saliva naturally neutralizes and carries away bacteria. Therefore, it is often sufficient to work with this natural defense by providing chews that increase saliva production. But there are other measures you can take to clean your pup’s mouth when it’s particularly smelly or dirty, or just for your peace of mind.

If you see what looks like maggots in your dog’s poop, it’s usually worms.

If your dog’s poop really does contain maggots, it’s likely that the flies laid eggs on the stool after it was passed.

If your dog has maggots in a wound or on its butt, you should seek veterinary advice immediately.

The most common intestinal worms in dogs are roundworms and tapeworms.

The most visible sign of myiasis is unmistakable. The small, white larva of a fly will be present on the dog’s broken skin and will mostly squirm and move. Sometimes the dog’s coat will cover the wound, especially with long, matted coats. Tiny sticky white eggs are often found on the fur of the affected animal. A dog with untreated myiasis will develop a foul, putrid odor because the maggots secrete an enzyme that necrotics healthy skin tissue. In severe cases, they may lose their appetite and become lethargic and depressed.

foul smell

Visible larvae on the skin

lethargy

types

myiasis

This type of infestation is caused by a maggot infestation, which is the larval stage of growth for many flies. Pre-existing wounds and skin damage are susceptible to this type of infestation and many maggots will be present with this type of infestation and it can lead to necrosis and additional infections.

Cuterebriasis

Cuterebriasis is actually infested by the larva of a fly from the Cuterebra family. The female Cuterebra fly, also known as the botfly, lays her eggs on the ground near the homes of rodents such as rats or rabbits. They burrow into their host and grow until they emerge a month later. These grubs can be found either singly or in small groups, but are not generally found in the large numbers that are the grubs of blowflies.

“My dog ​​ate a dead bird. Should I be worried?” While this might sound like an odd question, veterinarians hear it more often than you might think, and chances are you had the same question while reading this article. What you find gross and sad — a dead bird lying on the sidewalk — looks and smells like a surprise to your pooch, and before you know what’s happening, they’ll have it gobbled up. But could that be dangerous? Here’s what you need to know.

My dog ​​ate a dead bird. Should I be concerned?

Although dogs are known to eat anything and everything and seem to have stomachs of steel, eating dead animals of any kind can pose a health risk. Dead animals can contain bacteria, parasites, or toxins that could make your dog seriously ill.

Here are the main dangers of eating a dead bird:

Botulism: Waterfowl like gulls and ducks can contract a disease called botulism if they eat infected fish, says BeautyOfBirds. Your dog could contract this disease if he eats a bird that has had the disease.

Waterfowl like gulls and ducks can contract a disease called botulism if they eat infected fish, says BeautyOfBirds. Your dog could contract this disease if he eats a bird that has had the disease. Exposure to Toxins: If your dog has eaten a dead bird that has ingested poison, pesticides, environmental toxins, or a poisoned animal or insect, the bird could still have active toxins in its digestive system that could be passed on to your dog. The effect of these substances on your dog will depend on how much venom was left in the bird’s system, the type of venom, and the size of your dog.

What to do if your dog ate a dead bird?

If you see your dog eating a dead bird, if possible, write down the species of bird, how long you think it was dead – did it look fresh or had it started to decompose? – and how much your dog has ingested. Call your vet and let them know what happened. They may have specific advice for your dog based on what they know about your dog’s age, size, etc.

If you haven’t seen your dog eat the bird, watch them closely for signs such as diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal pain, loss of appetite, dehydration, and lethargy or weakness. Let your vet know if you notice any of these signs; They may tell you to bring your pup in right away, or they might ask you to monitor the situation for the next day or so. Your veterinarian may also advise you to stop feeding your dog his regular food and switch to a therapeutic dog food that is gentle on his digestive system. If your dog doesn’t show any signs of improvement within 24 to 48 hours, you should take him to the vet.

Fetching game with dogs

While your dog is likely trained not to eat the bird, you should keep an eye on your dog if you take them hunting and have them bring back game birds such as pheasants, geese or ducks. While it’s more likely to contract bacteria through digestion, simply tending a wild bird in its mouth comes with some small risks. If you notice your dog behaving differently after a hunt, be sure to contact your veterinarian to get them checked out.

While eating a dead bird rarely causes serious health problems in dogs, it’s always best not to risk your beloved pup’s health. If your dog has eaten a bird, keep an eye on it and keep in touch with your veterinarian.

Common bird diseases and parasites

Diseases in birds are easily transmitted at feeding sites where overcrowding can occur. There are some measures you can take to keep foraging birds healthy.

salmonella

Birds infected with Salmonella may show ruffled feathers, swollen eyelids, or lethargy. It is spread primarily through fecal contamination of food and water, but can also be transmitted by birds touching at a crowded feeding station. Birds showing symptoms usually die within 1 to 3 days.

Salmonella can be transmitted to people handling sick or dead birds. Always wear disposable gloves when handling infected birds and wash your hands after touching a birdhouse or birdbath.

avian conjunctivitis

It is also known as “house finch disease” because the majority of its victims are house finches. Infected birds show crusted, swollen or runny eyes, in some cases so severe that the eyes are swollen shut. Some sick birds recover, but many die from exposure, starvation, or predation. Other finch species can also become infected with this disease.

fowl mites

Some species of mites and lice feed on bird feathers and skin, while others feed on blood. A large number of blood-sucking mites can cause anemia and death in young birds, while a heavily infested nest with feather mites can result in the parents abandoning the eggs or young.

Fowl mites can invade indoor environments, and while they cannot survive long without a bird host, they can be a nuisance to people and pets. Vacuuming, using masking tape, or wiping up mites with a damp, soapy cloth can help get rid of them.

“Bald” birds

Occasionally, birds—particularly northern cardinals and blue jays—appear without feathers on their heads. This gives the birds a pinhead appearance, which is particularly alarming in black-skinned cardinals. The most likely reason for this is abnormal shedding, although feather mites or lice cannot be ruled out. The feathers will eventually grow back normally.

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Botulism is motor paralysis caused by eating foods that contain the toxin (a poisonous substance) produced by Clostridium botulinum bacteria. This bacterium grows rapidly in decomposing animal tissues and sometimes plant matter. It leads to rapid death due to paralysis of vital organs. Botulism is a poisoning, not an infection.

There are 7 species of Clostridium botulinum; the C1 type is most common in animals. The usual source of the toxin is decaying carcasses or decayed vegetation. Botulism is most common in wild waterfowl (e.g. ducks) and only occurs sporadically in dogs.

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Jolanta Benal, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA

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My mission is to help you have a wonderful relationship with your dog. Learn how to teach good manners, decode dog behaviors and have a really great time.

Last updated on November 29, 2021.

KEY FINDINGS Dogs are often fascinated by the smell of dead animals.

Handling a dead animal (paws, nose, sniffing, carrying, etc.) can pose a risk to dogs, especially if the animal has been poisoned or is carrying a harmful bacteria.

Keeping a close eye on pets outdoors and teaching them the “leave it” command can reduce a dog’s chances of handling a dead animal.

If your dog tends to pick up random objects on walks, chances are he’ll come across a dead animal and want to pick it up. When it comes to gross and potentially dangerous behavior, eating dead things has to be high on the list. Here’s what to do when your dog eats a dead animal and what you need to know why he’s doing it.

Why are dogs attracted to dead animals?

Like so many things with dogs, smell is what counts here. Dogs have a strong innate sense of smell that has played an important evolutionary role in hunting and mating. It should come as no surprise that dogs are fascinated by the smell of dead animals. Given that this smell gets worse over time, dead animals usually become more interesting to your dog. If your dog enjoys exploring the great outdoors, chances are he or she will come across a dead animal and eventually want to pick it up.

There are a few reasons dogs are obsessed with smells that make people gag. One popular theory traces things back to the wolf ancestors of dogs, which would have very important survival reasons for hanging out gross things like dead animals and poop — the strong smells of these things can help mask the dog’s (or wolf’s) smell of what you’re eating helps hide from would-be predators.

In humans it is exactly the opposite. “Humans perceive ‘bad’ smells either through a built-in evolutionarily acquired mechanism to prevent harm, e.g. Rejection through faeces to prevent disease or through learning,” Peter Hepper, head of the School of Psychology at Queen’s University in Belfast, told Gizmodo.

Why do dogs want to pick up dead animals in their mouths?

Dog breeds known for hunting, such as beagles, pointers, hounds or terriers, have a natural predatory instinct. Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers also have a natural instinct to pick up dead birds in their mouths and bring them back to you.

While this behavior may seem “disgusting” to humans, your dog will be immensely proud of himself for completing his naturally driven task. Consider this before you think about disciplining your pet.

Why do dogs use their nose and mouth to explore dead animals?

Because a dog’s sense of smell is so much sharper and more sensitive than a human’s, it is arguably the most critical of the five senses in a dog’s life. Dogs use their sense of smell to explore the world around them. They are also curious animals and tend to use their mouths to explore objects, including dead animals, that they find in the wild.

“So-called ‘bad’ and ‘good’ smells are products of our culture. As young children, we’re ambivalent about smells like poop and smelly feet: we need to be taught that they’re “bad,” says Alexandra Horowitz, author of Inside of a Dog and Being a Dog. “Dogs, on the other hand, are in but not in our culture. They do not inherit our value system (unless we explicitly train them in its rules) and are therefore left with their own canine tendencies… For dogs (with rare exceptions) there seems to be no such thing as good smells or bad smells; Smells are just how the world looks. Smells are just information.”

Is handling dead animals dangerous for dogs?

It’s best to keep your dog away from dead animals he may encounter outside. Dead animals could have ingested a toxin, such as rat or mouse poison, which in turn would be dangerous to a dog. Dead animals can also contain dangerous bacteria that your dog could be exposed to.

One of the most dangerous is Clostridium botulinum, a preformed neurotoxin found in dead animal carcasses. Dogs can contract botulism if they ingest contaminated carcasses. Although rare, the effects of this disease can be serious. After the neurotoxin is ingested, it can cause weakness throughout the body that can lead to paralysis of all four limbs. In some cases, the toxin can attack the diaphragm and impair the dog’s ability to breathe, resulting in death.

Dogs can also get a parasitic infection after ingesting a dead animal, especially a rodent, that harbors the immature form of the parasite. These parasites include coccidia and roundworms. After ingestion, roundworm eggs mature into larvae and migrate through the dog’s body.

Signs of roundworm infection include vomiting, abdominal swelling, loose stools, loss of appetite, and coughing. Coccidia oocysts can enter the intestines after ingestion and cause diarrhea (which may contain blood or mucus), loss of appetite, dehydration, and vomiting. Some dogs infected with coccidia have no clinical signs. Treatment for both parasitic infections can be performed by your veterinarian.

What should you do if your dog eats part of a dead animal?

If your dog ate part of a dead animal, call your vet and provide as much detail as possible about the incident. For example, what kind of animal was that? How long had it been dead? How much has your dog eaten? Your veterinarian will then inform you about how to proceed. Some clinical signs that may appear are vomiting, loss of appetite, lethargy or diarrhea.

How to prevent your dog from eating dead animals

The best way to discourage your dog from eating dead animals is to command them to stop. You can teach “let it go” at home with treats (something you know your dog will want to put in his mouth).

One way to “let it go” training (but you can find plenty of tutorials online if this method doesn’t work for you or your dog) is to:

Place a treat on the floor and when your dog approaches to sniff or eat, cover the treat with your foot. The dog will likely still be sniffing and may even try to get to the treat, but stay strong and wait for them to give up. When he does (for this purpose, “giving up” means losing interest in the hidden treat and running away), click or say “yes” and reward him with another treat.

Repeat this process until your dog associates foot on the treat with leaving him alone and being rewarded for it. At this point, say “don’t” as you cover the treat with your foot, and continue rewarding if the dog loses interest. Once he’s mastered this, you can proceed to drop the treat on the floor and say drop it to signal the desired disinterest. Once he has it home, practice walks (and have treats on hand to reward him if he leaves something you don’t want him to sniff on his own).

By teaching your dog to “leave it,” you (hopefully) never have to deal with your dog eagerly bringing you a dead animal and wondering why you don’t seem excited about it.

Watch your dog closely when outdoors to prevent ingestion of dead animals. Avoid off-leash walks where your dog might find an animal and want to pick it up. Training the “leave it” command can also help reduce the likelihood that your dog will pick up an animal if he or she encounters one. As you can see, it’s best to keep your dog away from dead animals he might find outside to avoid any ill effects!

The content is not intended as a substitute for professional veterinary advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified healthcare provider if you have questions about a medical diagnosis, condition, or treatment options.

“My dog ​​ate a bird.” It might be unexpected for dog owners to say this, but it happens.

Unfortunately, like cats, dogs can also hunt, catch, and eat our feathered friends.

All dogs are carnivores descended from the gray wolf.

They have a natural instinct to hunt prey, and that includes birds.

Some breeds were actually bred specifically for hunting and capturing birds.

Gun dogs and certain terriers have a strong hunting instinct that can be difficult to overcome.

In this article we take a look at what you should do if your dog has eaten a bird and how you can get him to stop.

Is It Safe For My Dog To Eat A Bird?

Knowing your dog has eaten a bird can be disconcerting, especially if you’re a bird lover.

And now you’re wondering if the bird will make your dog sick.

While there’s a good chance your dog will be fine, there are some serious health concerns that can arise from eating a bird.

Some birds carry salmonella in their intestinal tract.

It is possible for your dog to become infected by eating one of these birds.

Garbage toxosis, or gastroenteritis, more commonly known as “garbage colon,” is usually caused when dogs eat spoiled food that is contaminated with bacteria and other toxic organisms.

It is similar to food poisoning in humans.

This bacterium enters the dog’s digestive tract, where it can form toxins that enter the bloodstream.

Dogs can also get garbage poisoning from eating dead animals like birds.

Another potential threat is West Nile Virus, which causes encephalitis.

It is typically transmitted through an infected mosquito bite.

However, your dog can become infected through eating or contact with an infected bird.

Thankfully, West Nile Virus is fairly uncommon in dogs.

Is It Safe For My Dog To Eat Bird Poop?

If your dog eats bird droppings, he is at risk of contracting bird flu.

Histoplasmosis is a non-contagious fungal infection.

This fungus is often found in soil contaminated with bird droppings.

If your dog scratches or digs in spoiled dirt, he could inhale or ingest the fungus, which then enters his intestinal tract and allows the disease to develop.

My dog ​​ate a bird: what should I do?

If your dog isn’t showing any ill effects from eating a bird, there may be nothing to worry about.

If he has diarrhea or starts vomiting, take him to the vet immediately.

There is a possibility of salmonella infection when eating raw bird meat.

Bones or feathers are not very digestible.

They can cause an obstruction in his gastrointestinal tract, which could also be an emergency situation.

There’s no harm in contacting the vet to see if they think you should bring your dog.

This will give you peace of mind and your vet will have background information should the situation deteriorate.

What are the symptoms of my dog ​​after eating a bird?

If your dog has eaten a bird and is exhibiting any of the following symptoms, you should take him to the vet immediately.

Symptoms of salmonella poisoning

Salmonella is very serious.

It can lead to gastroenteritis, an inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract.

Septicemia, also known as blood poisoning and septic fever, means that toxins can be carried throughout the body through the bloodstream.

In addition to diarrhea and vomiting, other signs of salmonella include:

Fever

shock

lethargy

dehydration

mucus in the stool

Unusually rapid heart rate

Swollen lymph nodes

Symptoms of garbage intoxication

Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors are most at risk of garbage intoxication.

Symptoms include:

Diarrhea

Vomit

abdominal pain and swelling

loss of appetite

sleepiness

Fever

dehydration

lethargy

panting

flatulence

Weakness

shock

Avian flu symptoms

Although avian influenza is relatively uncommon in dogs, this study found that they are highly susceptible to the H5N1 avian influenza virus.

Anorexia, fever, conjunctivitis, shortness of breath and cough are the symptoms of bird flu, according to this study.

Symptoms of West Nile Virus

Fortunately, most cases of West Nile virus in dogs have been mild.

Signs of this neurological condition to look out for include:

Fever

depression

lack of coordination

muscle weakness

confusion

cramps

seizures

paralysis

Symptoms of histoplasmosis

loss of appetite

weight loss

depression

Diarrhea

Cough

difficulty breathing

Enlarged lymph nodes

lameness

Fever

Pale or discolored gums

Why would my dog ​​want to eat a bird?

Many dogs were bred to hunt and have been doing so for hundreds of years.

Some breeds were bred specifically to track birds.

These include the Labrador Retriever, which was brought to England in the 19th century and bred for hunting waterfowl.

The golden retriever’s attraction to water made him ideal for duck hunting.

The Boykin Spaniel was originally bred by South Carolina hunters in the early 1900’s to hunt wild turkeys.

Whether dead or alive, birds are considered prey.

Even breeds not bred for hunting can take great pleasure in chasing and eating birds.

This is normal dog behavior.

They are inquisitive creatures and have excellent eyesight and an even better sense of smell.

Something that flutters around them fascinates them.

All dogs are carnivores and their natural instincts are to hunt, catch, kill and eat.

How to stop my dog ​​from eating a bird

Although your dog’s desire to chase and eat birds is instinctual, it probably isn’t something you expect of them.

Not to mention how the birds think about it.

It may be almost impossible to fully curb your dog’s natural urges, but it is possible to redirect his interest, at least to some extent.

As with any training, the earlier you start, the easier it will be for your dog and for you.

Keep your dog on a leash

When your dog is on a leash, you are in control of the situation.

This is especially important when you are out and about where there are waterfowl that cannot fly fast.

Ground birds, particularly when they are nesting, would be severely endangered.

Baby birds would be very easy prey for a dog.

Attaching a bell to your dog’s collar is another option.

It will warn the birds and give them a chance to escape.

redirection training

Remember that your dog’s prey drive is quite strong.

This technique may require some trial and error.

However, using their exceptional sense of smell to distract them and control their attention can work quite well.

It’s best to start divert training in an area where there are few distractions and gradually move to areas where there are more birds.

When you walk your dog, bring along his favorite treats.

If you notice your dog is very alert to birds, use the treat to get his attention.

Hold out that tempting bite as you walk past the birds.

Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise

Ensuring your dog gets enough daily activity will not only help prevent chasing and killing birds, but numerous other bad behaviors as well.

A dog that has too much pent-up energy or is bored and lonely is more likely to form destructive and unwanted habits.

It stands to reason that if he gets enough exercise, he’ll be too tired to hunt birds.

Teach your dog the recall command

This obedience training is probably the most important command you will teach your pup.

Keep this as a special word, used consistently and for reminder purposes only.

It doesn’t matter what the word is.

It can be “Come” or “Here,” but you’re only allowed to use it in training when he’s running towards you.

This establishes the connection between the act of coming to you and the word you want him to respond to.

It is best to start training where there are few distractions.

If he responds correctly, reward him with praise or treats.

Finally, you can take him where there are birds or other distractions.

Dog whistles are sometimes helpful with this training.

Their distinctive sound is easy for the dog to recognize and locate.

If you would like more information on teaching your dog the all-important recall command, click here.

My dog ​​ate a bird

If your dog eats a bird, there’s a good chance he’s fine.

After all, dogs searched for food for a very long time before they became spoiled pets.

Although we don’t like to think about it, chasing and eating animals like birds is something your dog enjoys doing.

However, there are some real concerns related to dogs eating birds and their droppings.

If your dog has symptoms such as vomiting or diarrhea, you should take him to the vet immediately.

It could just be an upset stomach, but considering the serious medical conditions it could potentially be, it’s better to be safe than sorry.

References and further reading:

Carter, M.E. and Quinn, P.J., 2000, “Salmonella Infections in Dogs and Cats”, University College Dublin, pgs. 231-244

Causey, D. and Edwards, S.V., 2008, “Ecology of Avian Influenza Virus in Birds”, The Journal of Infectious Diseases, Vol. 197, Issue S1, pp. S29-S33

Chen, Y., et al., 2010, “Dogs are Highly Susceptible to H5N1 Avian Influenza Virus,” Virology, Vol. 405, Issue 1, pp. 15-19

Ĉíẑek, A., et al., 1994, “Salmonella Contamination of the Environment and its Incidence in Wild Birds”, Zoonoses and Public Health

Panda, D., et al., 2009, “Indices of oxidative stress in gastroenteritis in dogs with canine parvoviral infection”, Research in Veterinary Science, Vol. 86, issue 1, pp. 36-42

Read, R.W., et al., 2005, “West Nile Virus Encephalitis in a Dog”, Veterinary Pathology

Schumacher, L.L., et al., 2013, “Canine Intestinal Histoplasmosis Containing Hyphal Forms”, Journal of Veterinary Diagnostic Investigation

Songserm, T., et al., 2006, “Deadly A H5N1 Avian Influenza in a Dog,” Emerging Infectious Diseases, Vol. 3, no. 12, issue 11, pp. 1744-1747

Verginelli, F., et al., 2005, “Mitochondrial DNA from prehistoric canids highlights relationships between dogs and Southeast European wolves”, Molecular Biology and Evolution, Vol. 3, no. 22, issue 12, pp. 2541–2551

Walter S.L., 2002, “Acute Penitrem A and Roquefortine Poisoning in a Dog”, The Canadian Veterinary Journal, Vol. 43, No. 5, pp. 372-374

Which pet food was recalled?

Several brands of dry pet food manufactured by Diamond Pet Foods at a single manufacturing facility in Gaston, South Carolina have been linked to human diseases. Diamond Pet Foods has extended its recall to some brands of dry dog ​​and cat food made at the facility.

For more information on the recalled products, including production codes and distribution information, visit:

How do I know if my dog ​​or cat has a salmonella infection?

Dogs and cats that contract salmonella infection generally have diarrhea that may contain blood or mucus. Affected animals appear more tired than usual and may have a fever or vomit.

Some cats do not have diarrhea, but they do have a decreased appetite, fever, and excessive salivation.

Some dogs or cats may have a salmonella infection but don’t appear to be sick.

If your dog or cat is showing these signs of illness, or you are concerned your pet may have a salmonella infection, please contact your pet’s veterinarian. Let your vet know if your pet has recently consumed a recalled product. Stop feeding your pet the recalled products. Dispose of the products immediately.

How is salmonella infection in dogs, cats and other animals diagnosed and treated?

Visit your veterinarian. A veterinary exam and laboratory tests can be used to diagnose salmonella infection in animals. Salmonella infections may require immediate treatment with supportive care and fluids. In severe cases, treatment for Salmonella infections with antibiotics may be necessary, and hospitalization at a veterinary clinic may be required. Your pet’s veterinarian is the best source of advice on your pet’s health.

What can I do to prevent my pets from spreading Salmonella?

Salmonella infections are a zoonosis, meaning the infection can spread between animals and humans. Salmonella germs are transmitted from animals to humans and humans to humans by the faecal-oral route. Salmonella germs can be shed in pet stools 4 to 6 weeks after infection. If your pet is diagnosed with Salmonella infection, please speak to your veterinarian about precautions to minimize the spread of this germ. A mild bleach solution can be used to clean areas that may be contaminated with salmonella germs.

Follow these simple guidelines to prevent your pet from getting a salmonella infection:

After contact with animal feces (stool), wash hands thoroughly with soap and running water. Wash your hands as directed in the hand washing instructions.

Be sure to wash your hands with soap and running water after handling or feeding your pet. Wash your hands as directed in the hand washing instructions.

Clean up after your pet. If you have a dog, pick up the stool with a plastic bag, clean the stool while walking or in the garden, and dispose of the stool in a tightly sealed plastic bag. If you have a cat, scoop out the litter box daily and dispose of the feces in a tightly sealed plastic bag.

Do not share food with your pets.

My pet ate a recalled product and the pet or my household member became ill. What should I do?

If someone in your household has diarrhea and has bloody stools, fever or diarrhea for more than 3 days, he or she should see a doctor. If you think you or someone you know has become ill through contact with a contaminated food, including dry pet food, please contact your county or city health department. Visit your state health department’s website for more information on contacting your local health department. Reporting illnesses to your local health department will help them identify potential foodborne outbreaks. By investigating foodborne disease outbreaks, public health officials learn about potential problems in food production, distribution, and preparation that can cause disease.

If your pet develops diarrhea or appears ill, contact your veterinarian. Stop feeding your pet the recalled products. Dispose of the products immediately.

You can report pet food-related diseases in two ways: (1) call the FDA Consumer Complaint CoordinatorExternal in your state, or (2) report them electronically through the Safety Reporting PortalExternal. Reports should include product details such as brand name, production code (example: BDR0105E2XJW), expiry date (example: Best before April 3, 2013), manufacturer or retailer, and place of purchase. Reports should also include medical information.

For more information on reporting an animal feed complaint, visit the FDA External website.

I have already filed a complaint with the FDA, when will I receive a response?

In each case, the information provided by the veterinarian or consumer will be evaluated by FDA staff to determine what follow-up action is required.

For more information about what happens when a problem is reported, visit the FDA’s External website.

How should I dispose of a recalled product, including pet food or treats?

Any product that is on the recall list should be disposed of in a safe manner. If you have a recalled pet product in your household, do not feed it to your pet or other animals. Any recalled product should be discarded to prevent salmonella infection in humans, pets or other animals. This product should be disposed of in a closed plastic bag and placed in a sealed trash can to prevent people or animals, including wild animals, from eating it. If you touch the product, wash your hands as directed in the hand washing instructions.

We’ve all been through that. Our dogs eat something they shouldn’t — human medication, your other dog’s medication, or a treat like chocolate or raisins — and our first thought is, “How do I get my dog ​​to throw up?” Vomiting is a quick way to remove a harmful substance like chocolate from your dog’s body. However, it is important to know how to get a dog to vomit safely. Here’s what you need to know before you make your dog vomit.

When to Make a Dog Puke (or Not).

If a dog eats something harmful that it shouldn’t have, it’s possible that it will vomit it up on its own. If that doesn’t happen, it might be a good idea to get your dog to throw up something he ate. But the reality is that you should only attempt vomiting under the guidance of a veterinarian. There are very good reasons for this. Note that if your vet isn’t open, some services offer live chat and video options to connect you with a vet.

Some substances, such as batteries or other corrosive materials or sharp objects, can cause dangerous and even fatal damage if vomited. Swallowed objects can cause blockages or perforations, and inducing vomiting itself carries risks such as: B. aspiration pneumonia, which is caused by breathing toxic substances, usually stomach contents, into the lungs. You may consider soothing your dog’s throat with a pet-safe liquid respiratory supplement after inducing vomiting.

It can be dangerous to induce vomiting in brachycephalic breeds like Pugs or Pekingese due to concerns of causing aspiration pneumonia. So consult a veterinarian first. Do not induce vomiting if your dog is lethargic, comatose, or if he is having seizures. If your dog ingested something more than two to six hours ago, it may be too late to make him vomit, depending on what was ingested.

It is safest to get your dog to the vet’s office right away. However, if you can’t get there, you may have to induce vomiting at home. Talk to a vet, or if your dog swallows something dangerous when your vet’s office is closed, call a poison control hotline for expert advice before proceeding. When you call, be prepared to give important information such as B. what he ate, how much and when; your dog’s weight and any health problems he may have.

Why hydrogen peroxide?

Hydrogen peroxide 3 percent solution is the recommended medication to induce vomiting in a dog. Luckily, many of us have it in our medicine cabinet. It’s also a good idea to include a bottle in your dog’s first-aid kit.

According to PetMD, hydrogen peroxide is a “topical antiseptic used orally as a home-administered emetic in dogs when customers cannot get the patient to a veterinary clinic in time.” Hydrogen peroxide is an irritant to the dog’s intestinal tract and usually works within 10 to 15 minutes, restoring about 50 percent of your dog’s ingested stomach contents. Vomiting can last up to 45 minutes, so make sure you dose your dog in a place where he will be as comfortable as possible while vomiting.

Hydrogen peroxide is generally considered safe when administered by a veterinarian. However, you don’t have the luxury of veterinary expertise at home. Don’t make your dog throw up if he’s exhibiting any of the following symptoms or conditions:

vomiting already.

Severely lethargic.

Comatose.

Decreased ability to swallow.

difficulty breathing.

Seizures or overactive activity.

Recent abdominal surgery or megaesophagus (a generalized enlargement of the esophagus).

Spent caustic agents, sharp objects or drugs.

Steps you need to take to make a dog vomit

Always call your vet first. Even if you plan to get your dog to vomit at home, your veterinarian is a valuable resource and can give you the most accurate information about your dog’s condition.

If your dog hasn’t eaten in the past two hours, he may be more likely to vomit if you give him a small meal. Make sure you have a 3 percent hydrogen peroxide solution. Higher concentrations are toxic and can cause serious damage. Administer the Proper Amount: The recommended dosage is 1 teaspoon for every 5 pounds of the dog’s body weight by mouth, with a maximum dose of 3 tablespoons for dogs over 45 pounds. But consult your veterinarian for the best dosage for your dog, and only induce vomiting if your dog has eaten the substance within 2 hours. Administer the dose with a feeding syringe or turkey syringe and squirt from the side by pulling back the lips and squirting between the molars. You can also inject from the front of your dog’s tongue or mouth. Be careful not to let your dog inhale the substance as this can lead to aspiration. If your dog doesn’t vomit within 15 minutes, you can give him a second dose. Stay with your dog while he throws up. Collect the vomit for your vet to analyze, and don’t let your dog ingest the material again. Watch for complications and side effects such as vomiting for more than 45 minutes, diarrhea, lethargy, bloating, or gastric dilatation volvulus (GDV), or peptic ulcer disease. Contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Timing is critical, and the safest step is to take your dog to the vet or emergency room to induce vomiting. In some cases, other treatments may also be necessary, e.g. B. IV fluids. And if you haven’t been able to get your dog to vomit, your vet can give him a stronger medication to get rid of the ingested substance, as well as the hydrogen peroxide.

A maggot is a larva of the common fly. Maggots have soft bodies and no legs, so they look a bit like worms. They usually have a reduced head that can retract into the body. Maggot generally refers to larvae that live on the decaying flesh or tissue debris of animals and plants. Some species eat healthy animal tissue and live plant matter.

It’s also possible to accidentally eat maggots, as they’re often found near food, although they’re usually found near contaminated food, which you would avoid. However, eating maggots comes with some risks that you need to be aware of.

Some people eat maggots on purpose. Maggots can be fried and eaten in places where eating bugs is commonplace. They can also be used for a Sardinian delicacy. “ Casu marzu ” means maggot cheese or rotten cheese. It is an Italian cheese specially prepared to turn into breeding grounds for maggots. While casu marzu can be described as fermented pecorino cheese, it actually decomposes. It is said that the cheese is safe to eat as long as the maggots are still alive.

It can be safe to consume maggots themselves, but you can be susceptible to anything they’ve eaten or been exposed to, like feces or rotting flesh. Fruit infested with maggots is likely to rot and be infested with bacteria. Other risks include the following:

myiasis

Myiasis is an infection that occurs when maggots invade and feed on the living tissues of animals or humans. It is most common in tropical and subtropical countries. People who have difficulty maintaining good oral hygiene are particularly at risk. Larvae can settle in areas of the mouth where hygiene is poor.

It is also believed that eating maggots makes the internal organs and tissues vulnerable to the larvae, although more commonly myiasis is something that occurs under the skin. The maggots that cause myiasis can live in the stomach and intestines as well as in the mouth. This can cause serious tissue damage and requires medical attention.

Myiasis is not contagious. Symptoms of myiasis in your gastrointestinal tract include upset stomach, vomiting, and diarrhea. In the mouth, the larvae are typically visible.

Bacterial poisoning

Eating maggots or maggot-infested food can lead to bacterial poisoning. Most foods containing maggots are unsafe to eat, especially if the larvae have come into contact with feces. Some house flies use animal and human feces as breeding grounds. They also breed on garbage or decaying organic material.

It is possible for maggots to become contaminated with Salmonella enteritidis and Escherichia coli bacteria. Symptoms of E. coli infection include fever, diarrhea, nausea or vomiting, and convulsions. Salmonella symptoms are similar. Both conditions can also cause bloody stools and fatigue.

Allergic reaction

Some people can be allergic to maggots. Certain types of larvae have been shown to cause respiratory and asthmatic symptoms in people who have used the larvae as live fishing bait or who are occupationally exposed. Contact dermatitis has also been reported.

It has been suggested that if you eat larvae that have been exposed to or are allergic to foods, you could have an allergic reaction. Scientific research is needed to clarify this view.

Myiasis, or dog maggot infestation, is a parasitic disease that affects thousands of dogs each year.

What is myiasis?

Infestation occurs when flies lay their eggs in an open wound or lesion. These eggs hatch and become maggots, which then eat the dog’s dead or dying skin tissue and sometimes progress to healthy tissue as well. The maggots remain in the wound, preventing it from healing, and can spread through the skin. If left untreated, the maggots can burrow deeper into a dog’s skin and progress systemically, eating vital organs.

There are different types of myiasis, but the most common types in dogs are cutaneous myiasis and cavitary myiasis. Cutaneous myiasis is the infestation of maggots on a dog’s skin or in a wound. Cavitation myiasis is less common and is characterized by infestation of maggots in natural body cavities (mouth, nostrils, ears, etc.).

Dogs that are only outdoors, have chronic canine skin conditions, suppurating or open wounds, or have restricted mobility are more prone to developing the condition.

Causes of Myiasis

Pre-existing wounds, ulcers, and skin damage make dogs susceptible to maggot infestations. These sores can start out very small and can be caused by excessive scratching or licking, an altercation with another animal, or being scratched by an object. Persistent skin rashes, infections, dog allergies, or persistent poor hygiene can also increase the risk of myiasis.

Myiasis almost always occurs in areas of a dog’s body that they cannot reach with their tongue. If dogs can lick their wounds, they’re likely to heal faster because their saliva contains tissue that promotes blood clotting. Additionally, by licking a wound where a fly has laid eggs, the tongue would remove any eggs in the infected area.

Myiasis is more common in hot and humid environments and during the warm summer months when flies are laying their eggs. Dogs that spend time in grassy areas where rabbits or rodents are plentiful are also more likely to have maggots, as that is where botflies – the most common source of the disease – thrive. However, domestic dogs can also develop myiasis because the larvae can be transmitted from the coat of an infected dog.

Signs of maggots in dogs

The most obvious sign of canine maggots, or myiasis, is the presence of maggots on your dog’s skin, coat, or in a wound. Maggots are rarely found singly; A female fly can lay 75 to 150 eggs at a time. You will actually be able to see the maggots squirm and move. They can range in size from 1/4 inch to about 1 inch. You can also find eggs or fly sacs on your dog’s skin and coat; These are usually identified as white, sticky, and about the size of a grain of rice. Normally, eggs can only be removed by shaving your dog’s hair.

If you notice your dog seems restless, constantly getting up, fidgeting, or scratching, biting, clawing, or preening, look for signs of myiasis. Start with areas your dog can’t lick – down the middle of his back, behind his ears, and on his head. Also, be mindful of moist areas of skin, as maggots thrive in warm, humid places. For example, look under his tail where urine or feces come into contact with the skin; and between his toe joints, which can get wet from puddles or dewy grass.

A dog with untreated myiasis will develop a foul, putrid odor because the maggots secrete an enzyme that necrotizes, or kills, its healthy skin tissue.

In rare cases, your dog may contract Cuterebra infection, also known as Warbles. Cuterebra or botflies lay their eggs near or in the opening of rodent and rabbit burrows. After hatching, these larvae enter an animal’s body through an opening such as a nose, mouth, or wound. Dogs can inadvertently become hosts to Cuterebra larvae while hunting rodents or rabbits or examining their holes. In most cases, trills appear around the head or neck of dogs, but the early stages are seldom apparent on external inspection; only when the larvae grow and the skin swells can they be seen or felt.

Myiasis and Cuterebra are both serious conditions and maggot removal should be done by a veterinarian. If you suspect your dog has maggots, make an appointment as soon as possible to avoid them further damaging your dog’s skin tissue.

Prevention of maggot infestation

Although myiasis is more common in rural areas where dogs are more likely to encounter rabbits, rodents and botflies, you should still be careful not to develop an infestation if you also live in a big city. Start by strictly following your dog’s deworming and vaccination schedule provided by your veterinarian.

Also, take the time to inspect your dog’s skin and coat each day to make sure he doesn’t have any open cuts or wounds on his body. If you find sores, wash them and apply topical antiseptics.

Maintaining good hygiene also helps prevent myiasis. Brush and bathe your dog regularly, and thoroughly wash urine and feces from your dog’s coat. This will help you spot potentially threatening skin problems in areas that are more prone to myiasis.

Because older and less mobile dogs are at greater risk of developing maggot infestations, it’s important to limit their time outdoors. Keep them indoors as often as possible and check their coats regularly.

It is also very important to go to the vet immediately if you notice any skin infections or any of the above signs of myiasis.

Symptoms of Maggots in Dogs

Because there are different types of myiasis, the symptoms can vary. The longer myiasis goes undiagnosed, the more severe the symptoms become.

Dogs can react differently to maggots, but in general, symptoms of myiasis include:

In severe cases, myiasis can progress systemically and infect various organs, causing a broader spectrum of more severe symptoms. If maggots penetrate deeper into the dermis layer, dangerous infections and in some cases even shock can occur.

treatment of myiasis

Myiasis is a serious condition and treatment should be undertaken by a veterinarian.

The primary treatment for myiasis is the physical removal of the maggots and their eggs, one at a time. This process is usually done carefully by hand and is a delicate operation. The enzymes and toxins that maggots use to necrotize and eat an animal’s flesh can be released in greater quantities when the body is crushed or pulled apart. When released into your dog’s bloodstream in large enough quantities, these enzymes can cause additional tissue death and possibly shock.

Due to the delicacy of the procedure and to avoid discomfort to your dog, myiasis treatment is usually performed under general anesthesia. Some types of myiasis, such as B. a Cuterebra infestation, require surgical removal of the maggots.

The first step in treating maggots in dogs is usually to clean and disinfect the area with an antiseptic. However, some veterinarians choose to perform the extraction first and clean the wound after the procedure.

Removing the maggots is a tedious and time-consuming process. If the infestation is severe, you may need to make multiple visits to the vet to repeat the process and ensure all maggots, larvae, and eggs are removed.

The skin tissue damaged and necrotized by the maggots must also be removed to promote healing.

Once the procedure is complete, your veterinarian will shave the affected area to prevent bacteria or eggs from remaining on your dog’s skin and coat. They will also apply a topical, antiseptic solution. They will then bandage the affected area to keep it clean and allow it to heal freely.

In some cases, your veterinarian may prescribe oral antibiotics, antifungals, fluid therapy, or other measures for several weeks to help your dog heal completely.

After treating the myiasis, the underlying infection or skin problem that led to the maggot infestation should also be identified and treated.

Recovery from maggot removal treatment

Wounds associated with myiasis can take a long time and a lot of attention to heal properly, especially when the maggots have penetrated deeper layers of the skin.

More than one appointment may be needed to ensure all maggots have been removed. Your vet will also check that the skin is regenerating properly and that no other infection is developing. It’s important to fully take all medications prescribed by your veterinarian and to consistently clean and bandage the wound until it has fully healed.

While your dog is recovering, your veterinarian may also prescribe medications to reduce the pain and discomfort, depending on your dog’s symptoms.

Foods that promote healing and recovery

What your dog eats after their myiasis treatment can have a big impact on how well they recover. A poor diet can slow its healing. While it’s important to follow all of your vet’s recommendations, a proper recovery plan should include healthy foods that promote healing.

It is likely that your dog will not have a great appetite after anesthesia, especially if they lacked appetite prior to treatment. Start by offering him small, nutritious meals. If you’re not sure what food is right for your pup, ask your veterinarian for a dog nutrition checklist or recommendations.

You may want to ask your veterinarian for recommendations for a recovery diet, but typically a post-surgery or post-traumatic dog recovery diet is higher in calories, protein, and fats. That way, even if your dog eats a smaller portion, he’s still getting all the nutrients he needs to heal.

When deciding what to feed your dog, look for high-protein foods that will help him maintain body mass. Avoid foods or treats high in carbohydrates as dogs in recovery are usually insulin resistant to some degree. You’ll also want to offer your dog a high-energy food, since lethargy is a common occurrence in dogs after medical treatment.

After all, you want your dog’s recovery diet to include foods that are both easily digested and tasty! If you make it easier and more enjoyable for him to eat, your dog will consume more of the ingredients he needs to recover.

Here are some examples of all-natural foods to give your dogs while they are recovering from treatment:

Carrots – these are rich in restorative vitamins A and C

Serving: Cook and puree them to make them easier for your dog to chew and digest.

Sweet potatoes – like carrots, this vegetable contains vitamins A and C

Serve: Cut into cubes and cook until tender, then puree, sprinkle with a little cinnamon and serve to your dog.

Bell peppers – these are rich in vitamins A, C and E and also contain helpful antioxidants that protect cells from free radicals and other toxins

To serve: Remove the seeds, then puree or boil the peppers to make them easier to digest. Once your dog gets better you can even give him raw slices, he may like the crunchy texture.

Blueberries – Blueberries are considered a superfood for a reason, they are packed with antioxidants and minerals that allow the body to focus on healing

Serve: Your dog can eat these as is, but if you find he’s a little apprehensive, you can turn them into an ice cream treat by pureeing them together with a frozen banana

As a pet owner, it is your job to give your dog the best possible life. While maggots are fairly uncommon in dogs, their symptoms can be devastating; Make sure you take care of your dog and take him to the vet at the first sign of myiasis.

Sources:

Home / Blog / Edible moths in dog food and other pet food – what to do

Food moths in dog food and other pet food – what to do

By: Lisa Dingemann

How to get there

The moths you find in pet food and other dry goods and foods are typically Indian flour moths. These moths and other insects found in dog food usually get into the home through the food packages themselves. The bag or box of food was most likely contaminated while in the factory or warehouse. Spoilage can also occur when food packages are in an infested environment such as a warehouse or on a shelf during transit.

Why they are attracted

Food moths are attracted to dog food and other dry pet food because their eggs are easy to hide. Once the moth eggs hatch into larvae, their feeding stage, the scavengers are exactly where they need to be – near a food source.

It can be difficult to spot an infested bag of pet food. The moths are likely still in their early egg stages, which means they’re harder to spot. During the egg stage, they only measure about 1-2 hundredths of an inch. After hatching from the eggs, the larvae measure up to ½ inch and have a worm-like appearance. Unless you inspect the food, which most of us don’t, you won’t spot a moth problem until you spot an adult flying around.

By the time you see an adult moth, it has already completed a large part of its life cycle. It has developed from egg to larva and pupa to adult – with an adult female having the ability to lay up to 400 eggs in 2 weeks. Recognizing or preventing a problem is of course important as these storage bugs can multiply so quickly!

What to do against moths in dog food?

If there are clear signs that moths have inhabited your dog or cat (or other pet) food, the food should be sealed, discarded, and a new bag purchased. Sealing the packaging prior to disposal ensures that other foods are not also contaminated.

If there are other dry pet foods in the vicinity of the moth infestation, or food that has come into contact with the infested food, inspect them thoroughly. Because the adult female moths are constantly sniffing out the perfect place to lay their more than 400 eggs. Unfortunately, if you see similar signs, it’s best to throw those items away as well. If they show no signs of life, we recommend freezing the food for a week to kill any remaining eggs, just to be safe.

Don’t panic if your dog eats food with moths on it at any stage of its development. The good news is that food moths are not known to transmit diseases that could harm you or your pet.

While they don’t pose a significant health risk, these flying bugs are still unsightly. If the thought of serving infested food to your furry friend sends shivers down your spine, take the time to check for moths when purchasing new food:

Sieve the first 4 inches of the food and examine it carefully. They rarely go deeper than 4 inches from the surface.

Look for tiny white eggs, worm-like insects, shells and white webs – like that of a spider web. The tissue is formed when the cocoon is spun. After hatching, you will notice the empty moth shells.

Prevent and eliminate moths in pet food with these natural solutions:

Do your own first aid

A. Treatment of a maggot-infested wound

Sorry, there are no nice pictures in this section. The truth is that maggot infested wounds are by no means pretty, but they are an unfortunate reality for our dogs to face. An alarming number of dogs and cats die from neglected maggot wounds. This is all the more tragic because they are surprisingly easy to cure once you learn how. Except in very severe cases, the dog does not even need to be hospitalized. WSD First Aid Volunteers have treated thousands of maggot-infested wounds on the streets over the past decade without a vet being called in. With dedication, consistency, and a complete lack of squeamishness, you can do the same. Just remember that whenever you bandage the dog, it must be muzzled as the pain may cause it to bite.

How does maggot infestation come about?

Thanks to the exposed garbage, most Indian cities are literally teeming with different types of flies. They lay eggs on rotting food, carcasses, excrement, and open wounds of all sizes. The screwworm fly is attracted to fresh wounds and these are so dangerous for dogs, cats and other animals. From itchy skin, fights, and injuries (however small), animals often have small cuts on their bodies. Even a pinhead-sized wound is enough to attract a fly. Eggs are laid within minutes. A cluster of fly eggs looks like a tiny white scrap of paper or flattened rice. Places that the animal can reach with its tongue are usually licked off. Dangerous areas are the ears, anywhere on the head and neck, and the anus. Old or weak dogs may not clean themselves regularly, or if a wound is too painful they may avoid licking it. They then become prime targets for screwworm flies.

In hot, humid weather, fly eggs can hatch within a few hours. The larvae, or maggots, feed on the animal’s flesh, deepening and enlarging the wound. Maggots are tiny at first, but can grow to a half inch or a little more in length in a few days. Even a tiny, barely visible cut can turn into a huge, life-threatening wound in a very short time. The hardest to spot are the species in which the opening in the skin remains the size of a pinhole and the maggots tunnel down, forming a giant invisible pocket.

How do maggots cause death?

Maggot-infested wounds are arguably the leading cause of death in stray dogs in Mumbai. This can be done in different ways:

• Maggots tunnel very deep into the body and eventually eat into vital organs. With deep head wounds, they can severely damage the brain.

• Maggots cause a lot of infections in the body. (Blood samples taken from such cases usually show extremely high white blood cell counts).

• Blood loss leads to severe anemia that eventually kills the animal.

• Mouth sores cause the dog to drool excessively and behave in an irritable manner, leading people to assume he has rabies. Such dogs can be killed by the public.

How to treat a wound

1. A typical maggot wound. From the size of the maggots and the depth of the wound, we can see that the infestation started a few days ago. This dog has become so weak that he can’t even stand up or lift his head. Most of the cases you treat will probably not have reached this stage and will fight back or try to bite, even if they are usually friendly and docile. Be sure to muzzle the dog before beginning treatment. The muzzle is not easily conveyed by pictures and requires a lot of practice. The best way to learn is from a veterinarian or an animal welfare organization.

2. These are all the medicines you need to treat a wound. Himax and Acrilin are veterinary medicines. Chloroform, tincture of iodine, Nebasulf are available in general pharmacies.

3. You need tweezers like these or regular tweezers that you can buy at any good pharmacy. Also have clean cotton wool ready.

4. For wounds other than head, place about 10-15 drops of chloroform directly into the hole. Leave it for a while. This will kill the maggots. If you like, stuff the wound with cotton to suffocate the maggots.

5. NEVER USE CHLOROFORM ON HEAD WOUNDS WITHOUT VET ASSISTANCE. Good and safe substitutes for chloroform are neem oil or eucalyptus oil. Many people use turpentine instead of chloroform. Pour directly into the wounds. However, make sure you visit a veterinarian to examine the wound.

6. Chloroform causes a burning sensation, and this part of the treatment will cause pain to the dog, but it is necessary to use it for its own well-being. Please remember, the burning sensation will pass, but if the maggots are left unattended they will kill him.

7. Check the wound to see if the maggots are showing signs of life. If this is the case, you can infuse a few more drops of chloroform and again tamp with cotton for a few minutes. Once you think they’re dead, wipe your tongs with alcohol and start removing them.

8. Even if you think you’ve removed all the maggots, examine the inside of the wound thoroughly with a flashlight. Maggots often create tiny tunnels that lead from the main wound deeper into the dog’s body. You may not see the maggots in these tunnels. A giveaway is that the bloody liquid in the hole(s) appears to be moving, literally “breathing” if you look closely for a few minutes. A common mistake is not waiting long enough to observe this movement. Even if you think you’ve removed all the maggots, spray the inside of the wound with Topicure veterinary spray as a precaution. The pungent smell of eucalyptus oil will irritate the maggots and they will start coming out of the tunnel.

9. Now the wound is finally de-maggoted, proceed to the next step. Pour tincture of iodine directly into the wound to disinfect it. You can use Betadine or Wokadine solution instead of the product shown here, whichever is readily available.

10. Drain the iodine. Then apply a lot of Nebasulf powder to the wound. This helps with drying.

11. Next, apply Acrilin or Lorexane cream. Fill in the hole with it.

12. The final and perhaps most important layer is Himax Ayurvedic Fly Repellent Cream. This is a godsend to wildlife and thousands of dogs owe their lives to this ointment. Smear it liberally on the surface: the strong smell prevents other flies from laying eggs on the wound and infesting it again. However, remember that the repellent effect lasts only half a day or 24 hours at most.

13. This dog has a second deep wound that is also infested with maggots. Stuff it with clean cotton.

14. Pour some chloroform on the cotton and leave it on for a few minutes. This method suffocates and even kills maggots deep inside. Then repeat steps 7,8,9,10,11,12.

15. Check the wounds daily to make sure they are not re-infested. Then repeat steps 9,10,11,12. Sometimes there can be pus in the wound. You should rinse it thoroughly with Iodine/Betadin/Wokadin before proceeding with the Nebasulf powder.

16. This dog is so weak that she remained inactive throughout the treatment. She is one of the seriously wounded who have to be admitted to the WSD center.

17. If you are not sure whether you can handle or treat a dog properly, please admit it to a veterinary clinic immediately.

18. In the case of very large wounds and if the animal is weakened, it is preferable to admit the dog to a hospital to avoid increased infection. The dog benefits from antibiotics, vitamins, iron fortifiers and a clean environment.

Prevention of maggot infestation

You might be lucky enough to spot a wound before a fly does. Maintain daily with Iodine, Nebasulf, Acrilin and Himax as shown. If the dog has a groomer, try leaving Himax with him (it comes in tubes) and tell him to use it a second time a day.

B. Treatment of skin diseases

At WSD we make two blends to treat skin conditions. They are both for external use only. We don’t usually give the dog oral medication. Dogs with diseased skin are rarely admitted to the kennels, but treated on site.

Do not use these mixtures on cats.

Treatment 1. Mix Scabnil Oleo with an equal part of neem oil. Apply to the dog with a brush. Repeat every 4 days.

The main ingredient in Scabnil Oleo is Karanjöl or… this is a powerful antifungal. Neem oil is also powerful antifungal.

(Scabnil Oleo is made by Goka…)

Treatment 2. Mix equal parts sulfur powder and camphor powder. Add a sufficient amount of good quality coconut oil and mix properly until there are no lumps. The finished mixture should have the consistency shown in the picture. If it’s too thick and lumpy, it will fall off. If it’s too thin and runny, it won’t stay on the dog’s body.

Apply the paste backwards to the dog’s skin so that it reaches the roots of the hair. Do not rub in, just apply a sufficient layer. Repeat every 4 days until the dog is healed.

Some general points:

• In general, we found Treatment 2 to be more effective for heat-related skin problems. This is due to the cooling properties of camphor. At the time of application, this treatment may irritate the skin and make the dog restless, but this will pass in an hour or two.

• Dogs do not usually try to lick off these ointments because of the strong odor. To be on the safe side, however, it may make sense to wear a muzzle on the dog during the application.

• If the skin oozes pus or has symptoms other than itching and hair loss, please seek professional help. These treatments will not suffice for serious problems, although they work for almost all cases that are usually encountered on the street.

• If one of these ointments does not show any results even after two or three weeks, switch to the other.