Double Fold Bias Tape Canada? The 117 New Answer

Bias binding has numerous uses, from button loops to contrasting decorative elements and more.

Bias binding, which consists of strips of fabric cut at an angle, is most commonly used to finish the edges of garments, particularly along necklines and armholes.

One reason is that the inherent flexibility of bias binding allows it to be sewn neatly around curves for a smooth, pucker-free look. However, there are more advantages.

I will describe the different strains and explain how to take full advantage of this inexpensive concept.

The basics

The type of bias binding you choose depends on the project. There are two main types of tape: single fold and double fold.

Single fold bias tape has two folds while double fold bias tape has three. Double fold bias tape is generally used to bind an edge and is visible from the outside of a garment, while single fold bias tape is used as a narrow trim that is turned to the wrong side of the garment.

Bias binding is typically between 1/4 inch and 1 inch wide when folded, and is available online and in stores in a variety of colors. Alternatively, you can make your own using diagonally cut strips of fabric and an iron as detailed below.

To speed up the process, consider using a bias binding maker, as shown in this video.

To make a single fold bias binding, multiply the desired binding width by four. Use this width gauge to cut an initial bias strip of fabric. It helps to do a small test sample first. Note: If you are working with a lightweight fabric with a lot of give along the bias thread, increase the width measurement slightly.

If the strip is too short for the edge you want to attach it to, cut and sew additional strips to achieve the desired length. Next, fold the strip with the wrong sides together and fold it in half lengthwise and press. Unfold the pressed strip and fold the outside edges in to meet the center fold line. Press again. You now have simply folded bias tape.

Double-Fold takes this process one step further. Simply fold the single fold tape in half along the initial fold line and press.

A term with many uses

1. Bindings

Finish raw edges by simply removing the garment’s seam allowance and sealing the edge with double-folded tape for a polished look. Edgestitch along the inside fold, making sure to catch the binding tape on the right and left sides with this stitch. We used contrasting tape to accentuate a garment edge.

Many commercial pattern shops and garment manufacturers use bias tape to eliminate the need for lining and facings. This is particularly common around necklines and armhole edges, as bindings are easier to sew and generally less expensive.

2. Seam finishes

Similar to bindings, Hong Kong seam finishes use bias tape to wrap raw seam allowances (see “When Hong Kong Finishes Wave”, Threads #155, June/July 2011). This finish works best with single-fold tape and is most commonly found on unlined garments such as jackets and skirts. Hong Kong finishes instantly increase the quality of a garment and are best suited to medium to heavy weight fabrics. You can certainly choose a color to match your fabric, but consider using a contrasting color for a more striking effect.

3. Button loops

Before I had a sewing machine that could make buttonholes, button loops were my number one choice. In just two easy steps you can make bias tape button loops from your own fabric. Starting with double-folded tape, sew along the open side and cut into strips depending on the size of the buttons. The other option is to hide the edge seams by folding a flat bias strip right sides together in the middle, sewing along the open edge, and turning the strip right side out. It’s your decision.

4. Drawstrings

Whether you’re making a new set of pajama bottoms or sewing some custom drawstring bags, bias binding is sure to make your life easier. There are two common ways to make drawstrings. The first option is to use double-folded tape and sew along the open edge. Make sure you tuck in the short ends before sewing over them to avoid raw edges. Alternatively, you can fold a flat bias strip in half, right sides together. Sew along both short ends and along most of the long open edge, making sure to leave an opening for turning the strip right side out. Finally, turn the strip over and sew up the opening.

5. Decorations

Bias binding is a great choice for decorating fabrics. Better yet, of all the apps, this is probably the easiest to use. To get the result shown on the pillow above, pin single or double fold panels onto a piece of fabric in a design of your choice. Then sew the band together on both sides before sewing the piece together. Straight lines are easy to sew, but slashes work well for curved designs, too.

Bias binding can also be used to decorate garments with bold accents. Bias lines can represent an edge, fall into the body of a garment, and follow a seam to make it stand out.

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Bevel binding and binding are some of my favorite finishing techniques for necklines, armholes and other hems. They are clean, pretty and fun. You can add a pop of color or print that no one sees, or blend seamlessly into the same fashion fabric. You can make them invisible by hand sewing the final seam or adding a touch of contrast stitching.

Bias binding and trimmings are used in two Blueprints patterns: Cabin & Saltbox.

This photo tutorial will walk you through the bevel blending and binding methods used in Blueprints patterns, giving you a clean bevel finish inside and out without the need to measure.

First off, what is the difference between bias binding, bias tape, and bias tape?

Bias binding is a strip of fabric (or several strips sewn together) that is cut at an angle. It has two edges that are rotated and pressed to meet in the middle. Bias tape is inherently stretchy and flows gracefully around curves, unlike fabrics that are cut to have the grain straight. This makes it perfect for finishing curved hems. There are two types of bias binding: single fold, which is most commonly used for bias binding, and double fold, which is mainly used for bias binding.

How to make bias binding: 3 easy ways to do it yourself

Let’s talk about how to make bias binding!

Bias binding is one of those useful little sewing essentials that has so many uses. It’s absolutely not just for quilters! While you can buy prejudices in those nice little neat packages, there are many advantages to making your own. So why make bias tape yourself?

The boxed binding is available in a limited range of solid colors. While this can be great, why not add some interest by making your own bias binding in a floral, stripe, animal print or polka dot pattern?

Boxed ties can be heavy and cardboard-like on lighter fabrics.

You can tailor your bias binding to a fashion fabric by making bias binding from that fabric.

You can make a lot of bias binding with very little fabric, so it’s a great way to use up leftovers.

So these are some of the reasons handmade bias binding is great. Let me show you 3 different ways to make it yourself and whether you need any fancy gadgets to make your own tape.

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What you need to make bias binding

The best fabrics for making bias binding

Before we start dicing and julienne fries out of our fabric, what kind of fabrics make the best bias binding?

Any type of lightweight fabric works well for bias binding. But when it’s a natural fiber, it’s even better because it can withstand all the pressure we have to put on it.

Light silks, cotton batiste, cotton voile, cotton quilts, shirts, cotton chambrays all make excellent biases. But you can be a little adventurous as long as the fabric is light.

You will learn over time that the best bias binding is often the fabric your garment is made of. This is how a pattern like an Ogden Cami made out of a smooth bias woven viscose challis becomes really beautiful.

It’s a bit more difficult to work with than a plain cotton fabric, but it gives the most natural finish to the fabric. Having reviewed and participated in many ready-to-wear garments, I have to say that it’s pretty rare to come across bias binding or contrast fabric trimmings.

The easiest way to make bias binding

This method of making your own bias binding is great when you just need a little bit. Maybe you just need enough tape to finish off a neckline that can be used as an armhole tie. Do this if you need less than a meter of pre-tension.

Lay your fabric out flat. Match the selvage to the 45 degree mark on your ruler.

Draw lines against the length of the ruler edge. Make them as wide as your pattern requires or whatever you like. I tend towards 1″ or 1 1/2″ widths.

Match the 45 degree angle line to the selvedge

Draw and cut lines

seam strips if necessary

Cut along the lines with your scissors.

Boom, that’s it. You just picked up some prejudices.

If you need a slightly longer length, place the strips right sides together and sew a small seam. Cut the seam and press open.

In a slightly smoother way to create your own bias…

A self-slanting panel is the perfect finishing touch for this sleeveless silk burlap dress.

Three edge finishes

I’ve become a proponent of the less is more school of graduation. Today’s fabrics are so beautiful in and of themselves that a simple edge is all they need. These techniques allow you to eliminate the traditional facings at the armhole edges of sleeveless garments and still achieve beautiful end results. I show you three edge finishes that are wonderful for summer wear: folded bias edges, a baby hem, and scalloped edges. I also give you a great tip for reinforcing buttonholes and buttons.

Pleated bias trim

First, cut a bias strip of fabric slightly shorter than the length of the armhole perimeter plus a seam allowance at each end. It should be 1 to 1½ inches wide plus twice the width of your seam allowance. Sew the ends of the strips right sides together. Fold in half with wrong sides and press. Sew right sides together to armhole. Cut and smooth the seam. Iron inside out and baste at the shoulder and side seams by hand or by backstitching along the seam.

baby hem

This is a foolproof way to make a narrow machine hem. I bless the day I learned it because it’s useful for so many things.

To complete an armhole, pinch the edge along the seam line and sew close to the crease.

Cut off the excess fabric near the seam line. Application scissors are good for trimming.

Fold the edge back in and sew. When you are finished you may see the two rows of stitches on the wrong side but only one on the right side of your garment.

wave edge

This is also a great way to finish the opening and bottom hems of a garment. I used the decorative shell stitch on my Bernina sewing machine. Most machines have a similar stitch. First I sewed and neatened the shoulder and side seams.

Pin the batting strips to the wrong side of the garment. I used a water soluble stabilizer to keep my top as light as possible. You could also use a lightweight tear-off product, but some of it will always remain under your seams.

Sew along the armhole seam line with your programmed stitch. Trim the excess fabric along the outside of the shells.

I cut away much of the water soluble stabilizer before placing it in a water bath to soak up the remaining streaks (read the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct process for the product you are using).

Tip for reinforcing buttonholes and buttons

It is always important to reinforce buttons and buttonholes. Here’s how to do it if you don’t have a traditional disguise.

Glue some lightweight stabilizer to a strip of fabric and pin to the wrong side of the garment behind the buttonhole markings.

Sew the buttonholes and cut the connected fabric near the seam. Also reinforce the button side before sewing on the buttons.

A slanted trim is the perfect finishing touch for this sleeveless silk burlap dress. A slim “baby” hem is almost weightless with this 4-layer silk top. Dainty, machine-sewn scalloped edges add a featherweight finish to a dropped-shoulder blouse in a textured silk-linen blend. The trim does not have to be completely sewn up, but simply pinned down at the shoulder and side seams. To complete an armhole, pinch the edge along the seam line and sew close to the crease. Cut off the excess fabric near the seam line. Application scissors are good for trimming. Fold the edge back in and sew. When you are finished you may see the two rows of stitches on the wrong side but only one on the right side of your garment. Pin the batting strips to the wrong side of the garment. I used a water soluble stabilizer to keep my top as light as possible. You can also use a lightweight tear-off product that will always leave some under your seams. Sew along the armhole seam line with your programmed stitch. Trim the excess fabric along the outside of the shells. I trimmed away much of the water soluble stabilizer before placing it in a water bath to wick away the remaining streaks (read the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct process for the product you are using). Glue some lightweight stabilizer to a strip of fabric and pin to the wrong side of the garment behind the buttonhole markings. Sew the buttonholes and cut the connected fabric near the seam. Also reinforce the button side before sewing on the buttons.

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Here are the types of bias binding that are most useful for sewing. Bias tape is one of the most useful sewing tools and can be used for overcasting and trimming almost anything. It can be decorative or just a simple way to finish a vulnerable edge, seam, armhole, neckline or anywhere a serge is needed. The bias-cut fabric’s slight stretch provides a clean and attractive finish, especially in curved areas.

Pin types of bias binding

Single tape, double tape, fusible tape, and even ceiling tape are part of the comprehensive list of bias tape types. Don’t forget to add the DIY enthusiast who just can’t resist making their own take on an original patterned bias binding.

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Types of Bias Tape

1. Single-Fold Bias Tape Single-fold bias tape is made from strips of fabric that are cut diagonally (diagonally) and folded on each edge to meet in the middle. Store-bought single-fold bias tape conveniently wraps around a piece of cardboard for neat storage. The most commonly used width is 12 mm (½ inch), which is used for finishing necklines and armholes. You can choose to sew the bias binding so that it is hidden on the inside of the garment, or on the outside for an attractive contrasting look. Further Reading: How to Sew a Bias Fold

2. Double Fold Bias Tape Double fold bias tape is folded at the edges like a single fold and then folded back in half, making it easier to wrap the edges of your item. Double-sided tapes are slightly wider on one side so you can grab both sides when sewing. Again, the most commonly used size is ½ inch (12mm). The narrower ¼ inch (6mm) double fold bias tape is commonly used for bias binding. Further reading: How to sew double fold bias tape Check out the differences between single and double fold bias tape. Types of bias binding with pins – single or double fold

If you are sewing to an edge, note that the single-fold types of bias tape are on one side only, while the double-fold bias tapes are both outside and inside.

Types of bias binding with pins – single or double fold

3. Fusible bias tape

This is a very useful type of bias tape with an adhesive on one side. Wrap the ribbon over the edge to be bound and iron the ribbon on. A presser cloth is a good idea to prevent an edge of the tape from sticking to your iron. The edge is enclosed with no pinning or sewing. When the edging needs more durable equipment, a single or double fold bias tape is a better choice than the fixation.

4. Types of ceilings of bias tape

Look for beautiful satin finishes with this type of bias binding and use it on the edges of fluffy blankets or other cozy fabrics for a really soft finish. Turning the corners can be a bit tricky, so watch out for puckering at the corners as you go around the quilt. Reducing the stitch tension can help reduce puckering.

5. Continuous Bias Tape

Continuous bias binding – a challenge? Yes, but with practice, this type of tape is the most rewarding to work with and provides a nice continuity. Continuous bias tape is less sewn together and is made by sewing your fabric into a tube and then cutting it in a spiral to create a continuous strip of fabric. You can then press it into single or double fold bias tape depending on your project.

Further reading: How to make continuous bias binding

Pin Types of Bias Tape – Continuous bias

6. Do-it-yourself bias tape types Commercially available bias tapes are usually only available in solid colors. Create interesting and dramatic effects in your projects by making your own masking tape from patterned and colorful fabrics. Types of Bias Binding – DIY Bias Binding There are wonderful fabrics that you can play around with and make your own ribbon. It’s important to keep the width regular, and with the help of a bias tape machine, the whole turning of the pages becomes a lot easier. Further reading: How to make bias binding

Types of bias bindings – conclusion

The subject of bias tape styles is certainly broader than a single bias-cut piece of fabric. Experiment with different fabrics and colors and attach a few rows of ribbon to a skirt or tablecloth. Always learn new things and never be totally predictable in the styles, finishes and fashions you create.

More articles about bias binding

Bias tape comes in single fold bias tape and double fold bias tape. Simple means the sides are folded towards the center and pressed. Double oblique means that it is folded and pressed again at an angle.

Bias binding can be used for tying quilts, around bibs and oven mitts, for many craft projects and is especially handy for the edges of purses and wallets. It can also be used in tailoring in place of facings and for edging. Some covers are also available with picot (lace) binding and can be used for decoration.

Thank you for your kind reception of our newest free pattern, the Sam apron! We are very pleased that you are as enthusiastic about this pattern as we are. Sam is easy to attach, easy to sew and offers tons of customization options! If you haven’t already, you can snag Sam by signing up for our newsletter here.

Today we want to cover the alternative bias binding method used in this pattern, which may be different than what you are used to. The bias tape is wider and has only one fold. We find this method to be a little easier for beginners, and the added weight of the multiple layers of fabric helps add structure to the curved sides of the apron bib.

If you’re using store-bought bias binding, or just prefer the standard single or double fold tape, you can use these methods instead! We have a photographed guide on how to make a traditional bias binding which you can refer to here.

What is bias tape?

Bias binding is a folded strip of fabric that has been cut at an angle (a 45-degree angle to the selvage). Bias tape is flexible and stretchy and can be used to finish edges or seams on garments.

The Sam apron includes bias binding pattern pieces (6) to cut out along with the rest of your pattern. If you’d like, you can cut these pieces out of a contrasting fabric, or use ready-made bias binding instead.

Halve the bias strips lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Pin the folded bias strips to the right side of the curved apron bib and match the three raw edges of the fabric.

Sew the bias strips to the curved sides of the apron bib, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowance. Stop and start 1” (2.5 cm) from the side and 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) from the top of the apron bib.

Trim the excess bias tape and smooth out the seam allowances by trimming one bias tape seam allowance to 1/8″ (0.3 cm) and the other to 1/4″ (0.6 cm). Leave the seam allowance of the apron as is. This helps reduce bulky seams.

Trim the seam allowance along the curved edge, close to but not past the stitch line. This is very important so the seam will lay flat when we turn the bias tape inside out.

Press the bias tape and seam allowances away from the apron. Sew the bias strip to the seam allowance and backstitch 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the seam. This will help secure the seam allowances to the bias binding and prevent edges from showing on the right side of the garment.

Press the bias tape to the wrong side of the apron. Top stitch 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the inside edge of the bias strip. Sew here with the wrong side of the apron facing up so you can see what you’re doing.

And voila! You have now neatly finished the bib edges of the Sam apron. You can continue with the rest of the pattern instructions. Happy sewing!

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Learning how to make bias binding (bias binding) can save you a lot of money and the possibilities for using beautiful fabrics are limitless. Bias binding is simply a long strip of fabric that has been cut diagonally and is therefore stretchy. It is used to cover raw edges and can be used decoratively for projects such as quilts or clutches, or for edging armholes or necklines.

Pin How to make bias binding

How to Make Bias Tape | deliveries

What will you need:

FABRIC – Your fabric should be light and tightly woven. I usually find that fabrics with small prints work best. A larger piece of fabric will result in fewer seams in your fabric. I recommend you start with a piece that is at least 1.5 feet long.

– Your fabric should be light and tightly woven. I usually find that fabrics with small prints work best. A larger piece of fabric will result in fewer seams in your fabric. I recommend you start with a piece that is at least 1.5 feet long. CUTTING TOOLS – Scissors or rotary cutter

– Scissors or rotary cutter SEWING TOOLS – Ruler, iron and general sewing supplies

– Ruler, Iron and General Sewing Supplies OPTIONAL – Bias Tape Maker – They are available in a variety of sizes such as ¼, ½, ¾, 1 inch and 2 inch widths. Here I used a ½ inch (12mm) bias tape maker. Common brands are Clover, Birch and Dritz. Don’t worry if you can’t get one because I’m going to show you how to make bias binding without any special tools.

Manufacturer of pin bias tapes

About Bias Tape

There are 2 types of bias binding: single fold or double fold. (Read Types of Bias Binding). This tutorial will show you how to make bias binding to create these 2 types.

Plain folds are used on the edges of garments, such as necklines and armpits. It is flat with the raw edges facing each other in the center. (Read how to sew a bias fold)

used on the edges of garments such as décolletés and armpits. It is flat with the raw edges facing each other in the center. (Read How to Sew Single Fold Bias Tape) Double fold bias tape is a simple single fold bias tape that has been folded again so that all edges are enclosed. It can be used for quilts and decorative purposes or to tie armholes and necklines. It is probably the most commonly used tape. (Read how to sew double pleats)

Pin single fold vs. double fold bias binding

How to Make Bias Tape (Binding) – The Video

Watch my YouTube video showing you how to quickly make bias binding with and without bias binding. I post weekly sewing and craft videos so subscribe.

How to Make Bias Tape VIDEO

How to make a bias binding

Are you ready to learn how to make bias binding?

Step 1 – Find the bias

First find the slope of the fabric. This is only the stretchiest part of your fabric and is at a 45 degree angle from the selvedge. Easily find the angle by folding the edge of the fabric into a triangle. If you cut along at that angle, it’s 45 degrees – no math involved!

Pen

Step 2 – Cut strips

Cut strips along the 45 degree bias twice as wide as your bias tape maker. For a ½ inch (12 mm) bias tape cutter, I cut strips 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. You can use a rotary cutter or scissors to do this.

Pen

Step 3 – Connect the strips

Take 2 strips with the ends pointing in the same direction.

Put the right sides together and sew your pieces together like this.

Use a little stitch and make sure you caulk the ends. Your seam will be about 6mm long.

Notice how each end overhangs a bit and the seam line runs from edge to edge. The 2 pieces of tape form a 90 degree angle. Repeat until all strips are joined together to form one continuous bias tape strip.

Pen

Step 4 – Press open and cut seams

Pinch the seams and trim off the pieces that are sticking out over the edges.

Pen

Now we have beautiful bias strips and are ready to turn them into tape with or without our bias strip maker.

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How to make bias binding with a bias binding maker

Once you’ve got all your pieces together, you can tape them up using your bias maker. These are available either individually or in kits at fabric stores, quilt stores, and on Amazon.

Insert the long angled end into the bias maker and push it through to the other end. A seam ripper or needle can help you with this.

Iron the folded fabric as it comes out the other end of the bias binding. Use the handle to pull the bias binding straight. Make sure the iron is set to the correct settings for your fabric. A bit of steam may help with a hard-to-iron fabric, but watch your fingers and do a test first.

Keep ironing the whole strip and you’re done!

Pin How to make bias binding with a bias binding

A bias maker is a great tool, but don’t worry if you can’t get one. It’s just as easy to use this traditional method. Just watch your fingers as the steam from the iron can be a bit hot.

Method 1 – your fingers

Pinch the bias strips in half with the wrong sides to form a crease.

Open the bias and then push the edges in to meet in the center crease. You now have a single fold!

Pin How to make bias binding without tools

Method 2 – Using needles

Take a long needle and poke it in and then out of your ironing board cover.

Now measure a gap the width of the tape you need to make and tape it back in and out of the ironing board.

SIMPLE FOLD – For a ½ inch (12mm) single fold, the spacing should be ½ inch (12mm). If you are making a 1 inch (2.5 cm) single fold, the distance should be 1 inch

– For ½ inch (12mm) single fold bias tape, the gap should be ½ inch (12mm). If you are making a 1 inch (2.5 cm) single fold, the spacing should be 1 inch. For example, to make a ½ inch (12 mm) double fold bias, this distance should be 1 inch (2.5 cm).

Pen

Repeat for the second needle 1 inch directly below the first.

Pen

Fold your fabric edges so they meet in the middle, then tuck the end under the pins. You can use your ruler to make sure the edges meet in the middle.

Pen

Pull the fabric through the needles and start ironing. Check from time to time whether the edges still meet in the middle and whether the width is still correct.

Keep ironing the whole strip and you’re done!

How to Make Bias Tape – Folded Double

Make bias strips the same way as the single fold tape instructions, with one important difference.

Cut the strips 4 times the width of the bias tape maker. For a 12mm bias maker, cut the strips 2 inches wide.

Once you have a single fold bias tape, fold the tape in half so one side is slightly wider than the other. There should be about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) difference.

Pin How to make bias binding – double fold

How to make bias binding – conclusion

And there you have it – gorgeous, colorful bias binding. You can wrap it around a cardboard rectangle for neat storage.

Pin How to make bias binding

PIN THIS PICTURE FOR LATER 🙂

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More articles about bias binding

It’s time for a confession – I used to find making bias binding terrifying. I found it intimidating and difficult to master. However, once you break it down into steps, it’s actually pretty easy! Learning how to make bias binding frees you from the shackles of the stiff, store-bought stuff and opens the door to so many wonderful bias binding possibilities.

In this tutorial, we show how to make three different styles of 1/2″ wide bias binding: 1/2″ wide double fold tape, 1/2″ wide single fold tape, and our favorite, 1/2″ wide “thirds tape”.

You’ll need scissors or a rotary cutter, a quilting ruler, an iron, and optionally these little bias tape makers.

The very first step is to cut the strips that will eventually become your tape. Bias tape needs to be cut at a 45 degree angle (the bias) so your tape will have the flexibility and stretch to go well around curved edges. The easiest way to ensure you’re cutting at a 45 degree angle is to use a quilting ruler with a 45 degree line. Align the 45 degree line with the edge of your fabric and cut along the edge of the ruler to get a perfect 45 degree cut.

For 1/2″ wide bifold tape, cut strips that are 1 7/8″ wide. Locate the 1 7/8″ mark on your ruler and make sure it aligns top to bottom with the new diagonal edge of your fabric before cutting your strips.

For 1/2″ wide single fold strips, follow the same process, only use the 1″ mark on your ruler to cut 1″ strips.

For “third” tape, follow the same process, using the 1.25″ mark to cut 1.25″ strips.

Here’s a handy chart to help you know what size strip to cut:

We want our tape to be continuous so we sew all the strips together to create one long strip.

Cut the diagonal edges of the strips first.

Then, align the two strips perpendicularly to each other, right sides together, with the flat, short edge of one strip aligned with the long edge of the second strip, as shown below.

Place two of the strips at 90 degrees, right sides together and align the edges. Sew diagonally across the corners. Repeat to connect all strips. Trim the seams to 1/4″ and press open.

Now let’s make the tape! The 1/2″ wide double fold and single fold tape we make in this tutorial use bias binding makers – the “third” bias binding does not require this tool.

You can also make single and double fold tape without a bias tape maker by simply folding and hand pressing. Be extra careful not to get your fingers too close to your iron!

For the double fold bias binding, we use a 25mm bias binding machine. Insert the short edge of your fabric into the wide end of the bias binding maker. Cutting the end into a point can help you thread it through.

A handy way to anchor the end of your piece of tape is to pin it to your ironing board. This way you can press the band with both hands.

Gently pull the tape maker down the length of the tape strip, flattening the creases as you go. The tip of the iron is really useful here.

If you’re making duct tape without one of those doo-hickies, you can fold each edge of the strip toward the center. I like to fold one side and then the other as it can be difficult to do both at the same time.

After using the bias tape maker to make the first folds, fold the tape in half (with the raw edges included) and press. Voila! double folding band!

Single fold tape

The process of making the 1/2″ wide single fold strap is very similar. For the single fold tape, we used a 12mm bias tape maker.

As with the double fold tape, pin the end of your tape to the ironing board and run the bias binding maker down the strip of tape, pressing down the folds with your iron as you go.

If you’re doing this without tape, fold the edges toward the center. Be careful not to burn your fingers – this can be finicky with such a narrow strip of fabric.

Since this is single fold tape, once you have completed these steps your tape is ready.

“Thirds” tape

Well, the last type of tape we make is specifically for sloping fairings. It is a variant of simply folded tape. We really like this “thirds” option. It doesn’t take much time to make and makes a great slanted trim for a bodice or York apron.

To make “thirds” tape, we fold our strip in thirds. Take a third of your tape strip and fold it over the middle third.

Press with your iron.

Next, fold the remaining third of your strip over the first third and press.

That’s it! This ribbon is great for finishing off the neckline of a woven tank top or t-shirt, the edges of the York apron or apron, or any other pattern where you use bias trimming.

Now you have a cute 1/2 inch bias tape that works just as well as the kind you would buy at a store. You can use these techniques to make any size bias binding so you’ll always have a one-of-a-kind ribbon for your next project – AND it’s a great scrap breaker!

In our next post you will learn how to finish edges with a bevel trim. Let us know in the comments section if you have any questions or if you have any specific bias binding tips or tricks!

Happy sewing!

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This week I’m showing you how to sew single fold bias tape. In the last tutorial, we learned how to sew double fold bias tape. The techniques used are very similar. Single fold bevel edging is commonly used around garment necklines and armholes for a clean and simple edge finish. You can sew it on the inside of the garment if you don’t want to see it, or on the outside for a decorative contrasting effect.

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape

How to sew bias tape for necklines and curves

Necklines, armholes, and curves often use single-fold bias binding to achieve a clean edge finish without the use of facings. The most commonly used width is ½ inch (12mm) single crease as it is easy to work with and narrow enough to curve easily without wrinkling.

You can use store-bought single fold bias binding or make your own. The benefit of making your own is that you have an endless selection of patterned fabrics to use. Read how to make bias binding. You can make it with or without a bias binding maker, so don’t worry if you don’t have fancy equipment.

Sewing Bias Tape – The Video

Check out this short video I made to show you how to sew bias binding.

Instructions for sewing bias tape VIDEO

HOW TO SEW Bias Tape

Step 1: Push in a curve

Since a simple fold is often used in heavily curved areas, you should start by pressing it in a curve. This contributes to a better fit and fewer wrinkles in your finished product. Simply set your iron to steam and gently manipulate the preload as shown below.

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape on Curves – Preparation

Step 2: Pin to edge

First, open one side of the bias binding and pin it wrong side up around the raw edge of the fabric.

DECORATIVE BEARING ON THE OUTSIDE OF AN ARMHOLE OR NECKLINE – If you want the bias to show on the outside of the garment like the Bella dress (red dress) then pin the inside.

If you want the bias to show on the outside of the garment, like the Bella dress (red dress), then pin the inside. INVISIBLE CUTTING FOR ARMHOLES AND NECKLINE – If you want the bias to end on the inside for an invisible finish (like my denim pattern) then pin the bias to the outside.

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape on Curves – Pin Edge

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape on Curves – Pin Edge

Step 3: Overlap

If you need to overlap the bevel for a circular opening like a neck or armhole, start somewhere where it won’t be noticed, like the shoulder seam or back. Fold the end of the bias tape over 12mm.

Pin how to sew bias binding at the ends

When you’re back where you started, simply overlap the ends by 12mm. Just leave the end flat – no need to fold the top.

Pin how to sew bias binding at the ends

Step 4: Sew along the fold

Sew along the bias in the crease closest to the edge. If you are using ½ inch (12mm) single fold bias tape, this is ¼ inch (6mm) from the raw edge.

Pin How to sew bias binding – sewing

Step 5: Fold down

Now push the bias to the other side and push and pin.

Pin How to sew bias binding – presses

See how the seam is now on the edge in the image below. The edges should be tucked in.

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape – Folds

Step 6: Stitch Edge

Sew the bias tape close to the bottom edge. Give your finished bias some really good press. You’ll be surprised at how much flatter it sits.

Pin How to sew bias binding – stitch

How to sew bias binding at the ends

If you have an edge to finish with single fold bias tape, just fold the end over when you sew it in the first step.

Pin how to sew bias binding at the ends

With the edge tucked in, press the bias binding to the other side.

Pin how to sew bias binding at the ends

How to sew bias binding – conclusion

Here is a photo of how to sew bias binding where it is used on the inside of the neckline and armholes. The process is identical except that the first step was to attach the preload to the outside and then turn it inwards. You can see this well in the video on how to sew bias binding.

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape

PIN THIS PICTURE FOR LATER 🙂

Pin How to Sew Bias Tape

More articles about bias binding

Have you ever read a sewing tutorial and been confused about the type of bias tape you need? I have! Really, there are different types of bias binding; What they have in common is that they are cut at an angle, i.e. they are slightly stretchy and are therefore ideal for trimming raw edges. Some might be fusible, and they all come in a variety of sizes and colors (which also makes them great for decorative finishes). However, the most common are single and double fold bias tapes. Read on for a simple description of each, and you’ll never be confused again!

Here’s a gorgeous pink polka dot bias binding that I recently used to embellish my flamingo embroidery hoop (full instructions here if you’re interested!). This is simply folded….

…if you turn it over, you’ll see why. Each edge has only been folded once…

…and when I open it up it looks like this – the band basically has three segments created by the creases.

Now let’s look at an equally pretty double fold bias binding (haven’t developed a project for it yet!). As you can see, this ribbon has been folded in on itself…

…and when I open it up it looks like the dotted tie above. In other words, this one has been folded one more time (folded twice!)

And if I open it again, you can see that each of those folds actually created 4 segments.

So if in doubt:

Single fold binding has the edges folded towards the center

Double fold binding has the edges folded over AND has been folded again in the middle

Why the difference?

Well, double fold tape can be used to bind raw edges. Because it folds over the edge of a sewing project and sews in place so the tape is visible from both sides. Look closely and you’ll see that one side is slightly larger than the other, causing them to overlap by a tiny amount. That means when you sew the shorter side, it automatically catches the longer side, and the whole thing is secured with a neat and tidy row of stitches.

On the other hand, a plain fold tends to be sewn along just one of its edges and then folded under and sewn back in place to finish a raw edge. That way it’s only visible from the bottom of a project or garment.

But hey, these aren’t hard rules (and rules were made to be broken anyway, right?) As with all things sewing, the creative possibilities are endless. And when your tie is as pretty as the examples above, it will simply inspire you to use it in many and different ways depending on the project (like tying an embroidery hoop or assembling handmade bunting). So take this little bit of sewing knowledge and run with it however inspired you are!

And if you’re looking for some sewing inspiration, you might be interested in participating in my Creative Sewing Challenge. Sign up for free to receive monthly challenges and challenge yourself to find new and interesting ways to sew on this topic. Members create all sorts of wonderful projects, from botanically-inspired textile art to winter tree-inspired wreaths. All kinds of sewing and sewing skills are welcome; It’s free, fun and open to everyone. Learn more here or sign up below:

And here’s a handy pin for one of your Pinterest sewing boards – thanks for sharing 🙂

Double fold binding is a time-tested traditional quilt finishing technique. Because the double fold binding wraps two layers of fabric around the edges of your quilt, it’s wonderfully durable and protects the hard-working edges of your quilt for generations to come! Here we show you how to cut and assemble the strips for the double fold binding…

Cut

Cut the fabric into 2 1/4 inch strips.

You can cut the fabric across the selvage (perpendicular to the selvage) for a straight cut weave, as shown above left, or diagonally (at a 45 degree angle to the selvage) for a bias cut weave, as shown above right. The straight cut binding uses slightly less fabric and is perfect for projects with straight edges and square corners. Bias-cut bindings can stretch and are a good choice for projects with rounded edges. (In this tutorial we use a straight cut binding.)

If you are using binding to finish a quilt, make sure you cut enough strips so that when joined together they are at least 12 inches longer than the overall circumference of your quilt, and remember that each seam is about 2 ½ inch needed from fabric.

piece

Lay a binding strip vertically, right side up. Place a second strip, wrong side up, perpendicular to the first strip, corner to corner.

At the aligned corner, using your favorite fabric marking tool, draw a diagonal line from the top right corner of the bottom strip to the bottom left corner of the top strip as shown above.

Pin the two strips together on either side of this marked line.

Sew the strips together along the line. Snip the corner, leaving a ¼ inch seam allowance.

When you open the strip you will see that this joining seam runs across the long edge of the strip.

Now repeat these steps to attach the third strip to the end of the second and so on until you have connected all the cut strips.

Open the strips and push the seam allowances to the side.

Once you have a long strip of fabric, fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and match the two long raw edges. Press the crease. This is a double fold tie!

To learn how to finish your quilt with your newly made double fold binding, check out our How to sew a double fold binding tutorial!