Double Loop Bow Stringer? Quick Answer

Stringing a bow is a fundamental skill of recurve and longbow shooting, and removing the bowstring prolongs the life of the bow and string alike. If you have a bow that can be disassembled for storage, you must first remove its string. Don’t worry – your local archery shop can teach you how to properly remove and reattach your bowstring without damaging any parts. If you are more of a do-it-yourselfer, let the following steps guide you.

Bow drawing and tensioning are basic skills but require a specialized tool called a bow tensioner. This device helps archers to string and decock their bows safely and easily. You can use other methods for these tasks, but a bow stretcher is the safest method for you and your bow. It’s also the only method bow manufacturers recommend. Your local archery shop can help you choose the right string for your bow and teach you how to use it.

Bow tensioners are available at archery stores and come in different varieties, but they all work the same. That means they help archers bend their bow, making it easier to slide the string in place. Before stringing your bow, speak to your local archery shop. They can answer any questions and address your concerns.

Here is the step-by-step process of tensioning a bow with a bow tensioner.

Step 1: Prepare the bow.

If you have a three-piece bow, install the limbs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Your local archery shop can help you with this step. Next, locate the top string loop. You can tell the difference between the top and bottom loops because the top loop is larger. Slide the top loop down the top link. Then place the bottom loop into the string grooves on the bottom link. You’ll see the string grooves near the top of each limb. They are prominent grooves that hold the bowstring.

Step 2: Put the string on the bow.

As with the bowstring, attach the bowstring starting with the top link. Place the “saddle” end of the bowstring over the throwing arm just behind the string loop. The saddle end is open and flat so it sits flat on the limb.

Next, place the end of the pouch securely over the top of the bottom link. The end of the pouch is enclosed so that it can securely hold the bow tip. Your bow is now ready to be strung.

Step 3: Tensioning the bow.

Stand on the bowstring with both feet about shoulder-width apart. Hold the bow by its hilt and pull it straight up to flex its limbs. The bowstring supports the draw weight of the bow when you slide the upper string loop into the string grooves at the tip of the limb.

This step may seem daunting for new archers. How do you know if you’re drawing the bow far enough? Are you sure it’s okay to step on the bowstring? Talk to your local archery shop. They show you exactly how to string your bow safely and correctly.

Step 4: Checking the arch.

Once the upper string loop is secured, remove the bowstring. Rotate the bow so its limbs face away from you. This is the same position you would use to shoot the bow and it’s a precaution. If the cord slips off a link, the links will detach from your body. If this step makes you nervous, visit a local archery shop for help. You can demonstrate the process and make sure the threads are attached correctly.

Finally, check that the string is secured in both string grooves. Your bow is now strung and ready to use.

Now that you know how to string and unstring your recurve or longbow, you’re well on your way to a full day of shooting. To purchase a bow and bowstring, visit your local archery store. The professional staff will help you choose the right bow and show you how to use a stringer.

Every day we are asked about bowstring material and what is the best or what should be used for a specific bow brand/model? It seems that there is a plethora of misinformation from “string gurus” on various internet forums, so we decided to write a small article based on our first-hand knowledge, gathered over years of building bowstrings to have. With all the bowstring materials out there, it can be confusing deciding what material to make your new bowstring and cable set out of.

Bowstring Material Breakdown

Each bowstring material is made up of different raw materials, each giving it its own characteristics. I’m not a scientist and really could care less about blended/non blended or what quality Dyneema, Vectran, Gore and so on goes into each material. However, I will reference some of this information later for comparison.

I will start with custom compound bowstring materials. This seems to be one of the most debated topics. There are a handful of bowstring materials on the market today that work extremely well when it comes to creating a custom bowstring that is durable and strong while still providing good arrow speed. These materials include D97, 8125G, Trophy, 8190, 452X, and X.

BCY452X

BCY 452X has been around forever. It has proven itself over and over again. 452X is the material that all others are compared to. It is EXTREMELY stable and offers good arrow speed. It is available in solid and speckled colors which is nice for offering virtually unlimited color options for your custom bowstring. The only downside to 452X is that it’s prone to fuzzing. This was addressed when BCY introduced the trophy material.

BCY 8125

BCY 8125 is another material that has been around for a while. This is the fastest bowstring material we’ve tested. Because of its composition, it has a greater tendency to stretch when exposed to heat. While some string makers have had success with this material, we don’t use it for that reason. 8125 is a great material for modern recurve bow strings, both traditional and Olympic, due to its added speed with minimal vibration.

BCY D97

BCY D97 is a good all round string material, generally used as a ‘economy’ material in today’s industry due to its lower price. D97 was once a major advance over the fast flight string, but has since been superseded by several other better materials. While D97 is no longer the first choice for a compound bowstring, it is still very popular for crossbows and recurve bowstrings. Its “spongyness” helps absorb the shock of these bows without damaging their limbs.

Other bowstring materials

Other bowstring materials include 652 (Fast Flight) and B55 (Dacron). These are still commonly used on older compound bows, crossbows, and traditional bows. Dacron strings work well on older compound bows and tear drop style crossbows. It is also the best string material for traditional wooden bows with unreinforced limb tips. Fast Flight is mainly used on traditional bows with reinforced limb tips and older compound bows.

Find your ideal string material

I hope this little article has helped answer some of the questions about bowstring materials. If anyone has any questions or issues related to bowstrings that you would like to discuss or even let us write to you, please feel free to contact us through our website.

If your bow were a car, the bowstring would be the hoops because it transfers the energy from the bow and unleashes it onto the arrow. Therefore, it is an important part of your archery equipment and requires maintenance and replacement to ensure prolonged use.

Bowstrings used to be made from sinew, plant fibers and animal skins, but today they are made from high-tech synthetic materials. These advanced fibers make bows shoot faster, more reliably and more accurately.

Modern materials also allow archers to personalize bowstrings much like they do custom fletching to personalize their gear. They can be neon pink or muted gray tendon, or any color in between. It’s up to you to make your setup unique. If you have a favorite color combination, you can show it off and do archery in style.

Before you order a new string, make sure it becomes a long-term investment by learning a few things about your options and some tips for reducing wear.

Recurve and longbow strings

When purchasing a bowstring, you need to know your bow length. Measure the length from string groove to string groove. Once you know the length of the bow, you can determine the length of your bowstring. When shooting a recurve, your bowstring is typically 4 inches shorter than the length of the bow. When shooting a longbow, the bowstring is 3 inches shorter. If you’re still unsure, measure your current bowstring or visit an archery store to find out the length of the bowstring.

Next, decide how many strands of bowstring material you need. This number depends on the material and draw weight of the bow. Bows with a heavy draw weight will need more strands to handle that weight, and lighter bows will need fewer strands. Consult your owner’s manual or your archery shop to learn how many strands your bowstring needs.

There are two types of bowstrings available for recurves and longbows: the Flemish Twist and the Endless Loop. A Flemish twist has braided loops at each end giving it a beautiful, traditional look. An endless loop bowstring has loops formed by wrapping serving material, which is a braided string, around the bowstring.

Traditional archers like to shoot Flemish twisted bowstrings for their traditional aesthetic, while target archers prefer the precision construction of endless loop bowstrings.

Compound bowstrings

Compound bowstrings come in several parts. The main string and one or more cables connect the nocks. Your bowstring and cord lengths will be listed on your bow or in your owner’s manual. If you can’t find the lengths, take your bow to the bow shop and they can look them up in their database.

Now that you know your string and cable lengths, all you have to do is choose your colors. You can choose a single color or a multicolored cord. This will probably be the hardest part of your purchase as there are so many great colors available.

bowstring care

You can extend the life of the tendon by taking care of it and storing it properly. Also, regularly apply bowstring wax, which is available at archery stores. Each day before shooting, examine your bowstring for anything that looks fuzzy and run your fingers up and down to see if it feels dry. If your bowstring feels dry or fuzzy, apply wax to it and rub it into the fibers with your fingers until it completely fuses with the string.

Storing your bow in a climate-controlled environment will extend its life by preventing string stretching. If you have a recurve or longbow, remove the string between shooting sessions to prolong the life of the bow.

If you need or want a new bowstring, visit an archery store where experienced archery technicians can help you through the buying process.

Important aspect of archery

A simple left-handed recurve bow held in the right hand. It’s a one-piece design with flat, laminated fiberglass limbs and a molded handle

In archery, the shape of the bow is usually understood to be the side view. It is the product of the complex relationship of material stresses designed by a bowmaker. This shape when considering the limbs is designed to take into account the materials of construction, the power required and the intended use of the bow.

There are many different types of arch shapes. However, most fall into three main categories: straight, recurve, and compound. Straight and recurve are considered traditional bows. When a throwing arm is “straight,” its effective length remains the same as the bow is drawn. That is, the string goes directly to the nock in the strung (tightened) position. The materials have to withstand these loads, store the energy and release it again quickly and efficiently. Many arches, particularly traditional self-supporting arches, are made approximately straight in side view profile. Longbows, as used by English archers in battles such as Crecy and Agincourt in the Middle Ages, were straight-limbed bows. A recurve bow has tips that curve away from the archer when the bow is drawn. By definition, the difference between recurve bows and other bows is that the string touches a section of the throwing arm when the bow is strung. Composite recurve bows were used by the Persians, Parthians, Scythians, Hyksos, Magyars, Bulgarians, Huns, Turks, Mongols, and Chinese, among others.

Design factors[edit]

When a throwing arm is “straight,” its effective length remains the same as the bow is drawn. That is, the string goes directly to the nock in the strung (tightened) position. When the limb is backcurved (tip of the limb away from the archer), the string touches the limb before it reaches the nock. The effective length of the shank is therefore shorter at the beginning of the pull. However, as the bow is drawn, the recurve “unwraps”, the limb effectively lengthens and the archer’s mechanical advantage increases. On the other hand, tension builds up in the materials of the limbs. The belly of the bow (closest to the archer) is in compression, the back (farthest from the archer) is in tension, and the line in between is in shear.

The materials have to withstand these loads, store the energy and release it again quickly and efficiently. The amount of stored energy is determined by the loads sustained and the shape of the limb, from the unstrung position to the stringing (consider pre-tensioned), then further deformed to full tension as the recurve unwinds. These basic principles of changing the mechanical advantage to store more energy efficiently and release it to accelerate the arrow were clearly understood in ancient times, as the following examples show.

Straight arcs[edit]

A bow made of straight but knotty and inferior yew

Many arches, particularly traditional self-supporting arches, are made approximately straight in side view profile. They are generally referred to as straight, despite the slight curvatures of natural wood and the “settle” or curvature that a wooden bow takes on after use. When the archer begins to draw, the mechanical advantage is greatest and the bow limbs are only biased into the strung position; hence the draw weight is minimal. However, the draw weight increases rapidly as the mechanical advantage decreases (note that the string pulls more and more directly on the limbs) and tension builds up in the limbs. As a result, the draw weight “stacks” (increases very quickly). On release, the reverse happens, the arrow accelerates with maximum force, and that force quickly decreases. Therefore, the arrow must be robust enough to withstand such an acceleration, and since the string can slow down, it is possible for the arrow to leave the string prematurely, which is inefficient.

Longbows, as used in medieval times by English archers in battles such as Crecy and Agincourt, were straight-limbed bows, usually made of yew and with heavy draw weights, and used en masse. The arrows were also long and heavy.

Recurve bows[ edit ]

A recurve bow has tips that curve away from the archer when the bow is unstrung. By definition, the difference between recurve and other bows is that the string touches a section of the limb when the bow is strung. A recurve bow stores more energy and releases energy more efficiently than an equivalent straight link bow, giving the arrow more energy and speed. A recurve allows for a shorter bow than the simple straight-limbed bow for a given arrow energy, and this shape was often favored by archers in environments where long guns might be cumbersome, such as archery. B. in bush and forest areas or on horseback.

Backcurved limbs also put more stress on the materials used to make the bow and can cause more noise when shot. Extreme recurves make the bow unstable when stringing. An unstrung recurve bow can have a confusing shape, and many Native American weapons, when separated from their original owners and cultures, were incorrectly strung backwards and destroyed when attempted to shoot them.[1]

The unqualified term “recurve bow” or just “a recurve” in modern archery circles usually refers to a typical modern recurve bow as used by archers in the Olympic Games and many other competitive events.

Reflex arcs[ edit ]

An asymmetric reflex recurve bow, a fiberglass reconstruction of bows used by steppe nomads

Gakgung, Korean traditional recurve reflex bow as used by soldiers and officers. This bow is referred to as “C” shaped because of the extreme reflex when unstrung.

A reflex bow is a bow with curved or curled arms that face away from the archer for their entire length. When unstrung, the entire length of the bow curves forward (away from the archer) from the belly, resembling a “C”. This distinguishes a reflex bow from a recurve bow, where only the outer parts of the limbs turn away from the shooter. The curves put more strain on the materials of the bow, which means that a rather short bow can have a high draw weight and a long draw length. This allows a bow that is significantly shorter than a recurve or longbow to shoot with equal or greater speed and power. They became the classic weapon of the horse archers who have repeatedly conquered large parts of Asia and Europe; Their short profile compared to longer bows made them ideal for use on horseback. However, the material and workmanship must be of high quality.

Bows made of traditional materials with a clear reflection are almost all compound bows, consisting of the classic three layers of horn, wood and string; They are usually made in the recurve form. High reflectance compound bows are still used in Korea and were common in traditional Turkish and Indian archery. In some cases, strongly reflected bows may require special stringing and stringing methods or aids such as e.g. B. require a stringing board.

Decurve bows[ edit ]

A decurve bow is a bow whose arms are bent or curled at the ends to face the archer. This bow shape relieves the bow in use and the bow may be completely tension-free when strung, so that it can be kept ready for use at any time. It also reduces the energy stored in the bow and the speed of the arrow. The shape is rarely used in modern or historical bows, but was used occasionally by groups like the Mohave who did not have easy access to good quality bowwood. It allowed them to create effective hunting weapons from the poor quality material available. A curved arch is shown in a rock painting from the Tassili Plateau in the Sahara.[2]

Deflex arcs[ edit ]

A flex bow is a bow whose arms are bent or curled at the base to face the archer when not strung. This bow shape reduces stress on the limbs and also the energy stored by the weapon. Most modern recurve bows are built with some degree of deflex. It has occasionally been used in traditional bows, for example to make a bow that looks like a traditional horn bow without using a real horn.

Compound bows[ edit ]

A modern compound bow

The compound bow, not to be confused with a composite bow, is a modern bow that uses a lever system, usually of cables and pulleys, to flex the limbs. The limbs of a compound bow are much stiffer than those of a recurve bow or longbow. This limb stiffness makes the compound bow, in conjunction with the deflection pulley/cam, more energy-efficient than other bows. In a typical compound bow, the string is attached to pulleys (cams), and one or both pulleys have one or more cables attached to the opposite limb. When the cord is pulled back, the cord causes the pulleys to rotate. When the move begins the archer has a reduced mechanical advantage, but during the move as the roller cams rotate and the archer gains a mechanical advantage over the bent limbs, more energy is stored compared to other bows.

Shaping and taper[edit]

A “pyramid” arch from the front

Bows usually taper from the hilt to the tips. The taper reduces bulk in the outer limb and disperses limb stresses; This increases the speed at which the tips move, propelling the arrows faster. Shapes can be tweaked for various purposes, most notably maximum arrow speed; the details are the subject of active research.

Narrow arches usually taper evenly. However, the taper of flat arches varies. The working limbs of “paddle” bows maintain width for almost the entire length of the links, “pyramidal” bows taper evenly from the grip to a narrow tip, and “Holmegaard-style” bows remain to about two-thirds of the length in full width the limb, then sharply narrow. “Eiffel Tower” arches taper sharply but gently to a very narrow outer tip.

The optimal cross-section of the bending section of a bow limb is rectangular, and almost all modern bows have such limbs. However, many, perhaps most, traditional bows were of a more circular cross-section, with every possible variation being used at some point. Current definitions of the traditional longbow require approximations of a D-shaped cross-section.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Further Reading[edit]

Steve Hostetler bought his first bow and arrow set as a teenager at a flea market. He shot occasionally for a couple of years, then pretty much forgot about the sport.

However, he kept the slur as he moved from house to house, even after growing up and getting married. One day he pulled it out of the garage, dusted it off and shot a few arrows into the hillside in his backyard.

It was the beginning of a beautiful obsession.

“It’s a passion for me,” admits Hostetler, 40. The Placentia resident recently became a national champion in his category at a field archery tournament in Wisconsin and has multiple state championships under his belt.

Hostetler is at the purist end of the sport. Although his bows are made from space-age materials, they retain the classic single-string design made famous by every Robin Hood film. Dubbed the Bare Bow, the style dispenses with the use of a visor on the bow or any of the other extras.

“I shoot barebows because I like doing things the hard way,” says Hostetler.

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The type of bow used by Hostetler is called a recurve. The bow more common among serious archers today is called a compound bow. These intricate looking instruments use wheels and cams to make bow cocking easier, allowing a shooter to get 80 pounds of thrust out of 40 pounds of draw.

Because of their speed and power, compound bows are favored by bowhunters, who make up the majority of archers. Hostetler estimates that 90% of serious archers are hunters. (Though he’s strictly a marksman, Hostetler says he’s not against hunting.)

Compound bows are commonly fitted with sights (ranging from simple pins to telescopic sights) and stabilizing rods. Although sport shooters go for all sorts of wild colors, hunting bows are camouflage.

Archery is bigger in the east, says Hostetler, but the sport’s popularity is rising in the west. He is a member of Orange County’s largest club, Oranco Bowmen, which owns a 56-acre property in Chino. The club, which also sponsors tournaments, has around 125 member families.

Other clubs in the county include El Toro Archers, which maintain an area at El Toro Marine Corps Air Station, and a newly formed group in Coto de Caza. Public archery ranges are located at Mile Square Park in Fountain Valley and Santiago Park in Santa Ana. Another popular spot for local archers is El Dorado Park in Long Beach, site of the 1984 Olympic archery competitions.

There are different types of target competitions. In Olympic shooting, archers shoot from a line at targets spaced at different distances.

Field archery is a bit like golf: archers work their way through a twisting course of 28 targets, firing four shots at each target and keeping a running score.

According to several archers, a new type of target tournament is gaining popularity. Referred to as 3-D tournaments, they are similar to field archery tournaments, except instead of shooting hay bale targets, the archers shoot at life-size models of real animals, ranging in size from fox to moose. (A club in Northern California has a model elephant, according to Hostetler.)

According to Cameron McNee of Accuracy Archery in Orange, a professional hunter’s archery shop, interest in 3-D tournaments is rooted in the growing popularity of bowhunting.

Many rifle hunters come to bowhunting because they enjoy a bigger challenge, says McNee.

Rifle hunters can hit a target from a distance of 200 yards, while bow hunters typically need to close in at 60-70 yards. Also contributing to its popularity is that the bow hunting season is usually longer than the rifle hunting season.

A bow can cost anywhere from $150 to $800, says McNee. Arrows are a big investment: Aluminum arrows, still the most popular, cost around $40-$50 per dozen, while new carbon arrows, which are lighter and faster, cost around $200 per dozen.

McNee recommends that anyone interested in archery take a lesson before investing any money.

Accuracy Archery and a new Anaheim store, Hi-Tech Archery, have indoor facilities and offer group and private classes. Arrow Manufacturing Co. in Costa Mesa, another pro shop, does not have a range but instead works with a private instructor.

Archery classes have all but disappeared from public schools, but youth classes are offered by clubs and at some public shooting ranges.

Although there are a few professional archers, Hostetler said tournament prizes are so low that it’s unlikely a winner can earn enough to even cover travel expenses. “It’s not like golf or tennis where you can make a living,” he says.

Archery, even at the competitive level, remains a friendly pursuit, with experts more than willing to share advice with novices, says Hostetler. Tournaments are typically “just a social gathering with people who happen to be into archery,” he says.

Southern California used to have tournaments most weekends, but that has diminished as public and club ranges in surrounding counties have closed due to development and high land costs.

The Oranco Bowmen Range is open to non-members on Sundays, and some loan bows are available for youth. Public tournaments are offered on alternate Sundays, giving beginners the opportunity to watch competitive archers.

The range is located on Euclid Avenue, east of the Corona Expressway (Highway 71). For information about the club, call (714) 524-3228.

Public areas are at:

* Mile Square Regional Park, 16801 Euclid Ave., Fountain Valley. Area open daily. Information: (714) 962-5549.

* Santiago Park, 2535 N. Main St., Santa Ana. Area open daily. Information: (714) 571-4200.

* El Dorado Regional Park, 7550 E. Spring St., Long Beach. Open every day except Tuesday morning. Information: (310) 421-9431.

Specialist shops for archers are:

* Accuracy Archery, 610 W. Katella Ave., Orange. Information: (714) 771-2660.

* Arrow Manufacturing Inc., 1365 Logan Avenue, Costa Mesa. Information: (714) 545-6102.

* Hi-Tech Archer, 9872 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim. Information: (714) 636-7476.

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Bowhunting season is approaching where I live and in other places the season is already in full swing. There are probably many of you who go out and shoot your bows every day. It would be really convenient to be able to just pick up the bow and go.

You may be wondering like me, “Can I keep my bow drawn?” I used to do it all the time, when I was just starting out as a kid. At the time my bow was a red fiberglass recurve that my dad got me from Walmart for about $50 with 3 curved blade arrows. It didn’t seem like a problem at the time, but I was starting to think maybe I didn’t want to do this with a bow that cost more than $50, so I looked around to see what information I could find on the subject .

So can you keep your bowstring tight? It’s best to uncock your wooden recurve bow or longbow after you’ve finished shooting. Modern recurve and longbows made of synthetic materials can remain strung for up to 3 weeks, but should remain unstrung if stored for a longer period. Compound bows can remain stringed indefinitely.

All bows are durable, but only if properly cared for. Let’s take a closer look at some of them.

Why your sheet material matters

Most people want their stuff to last. Let’s face it, no one goes out and buys a brand new bow and says, “Gosh, I can’t wait for this thing to break so I can spend another $$$$ on a new one.” Everyone wants, that his bow holds. So how can I get the most out of my bow?

It depends on the material.

When you string your bow (and I’m not talking about compound bows here), the limbs are subjected to constant bending stress from the string. More specifically, the back of the limb is in tension and the abdomen of the limb is in compression.

Every time you pull the tendon back, the load on the limbs increases. When you fire a shot, the load is quickly reduced, but not completely. This constant and repeated cycle of loading and unloading gradually weakens the limb over time.

This gradual weakening process is called fatigue.

With some materials, it takes a long time and many, many repetitions to fully fatigue the limbs; not much time for other materials. Ultimately, you can extend the life of your bow, regardless of material, by increasing the time that the limbs are not stressed at all. the limbs should be given time to rest.

Wooden Bows: When finished, untie the string

By far the most common material used for bows is wood. Every culture throughout history that had archery had wooden bows. There are several reasons for this: wood is fairly readily available and withstands bending forces very well.

Wooden bows are generally made in a number of ways: carved from a single piece of wood, like many traditional longbows, or thin layers of wood glued and pressed together (a process called lamination), like many recurve bows. Both types of bows take advantage of wood’s natural ability to bend without breaking.

But there are limits.

If you’ve ever tried starting a campfire, you know that dry wood is best. This is because there is less moisture. If you’ve ever found yourself without dry wood, you’ve probably been looking for something. Imagine finding some sticks to light up and trying to break them into smaller pieces.

How did you know which ones were good? How easily they broke. The drier sticks break much more easily than those with more moisture and the green wood is the hardest to break. You have to bend it back and forth for it to break at all.

Wooden bow limbs are the same.

The wood has an optimal moisture content that allows it to flex and spring back without breaking like a dry stick. Wood bows are not only stained to make them look beautiful, but also to keep moisture levels optimal and to slow down the wood’s natural decomposition. Dyeing and sealing only lasts so long, although it does last a very long time. It helps the wood withstand the repeated charge-discharge cycle of shooting.

Above all, the natural decomposition of the wood shortens the lifespan of a wooden bow. At a microscopic level, wood is a bundle of fibers. Over time, these fibers become dry and brittle. With every shot you take, these fibers gradually get weaker and weaker. By tensioning the bow after shooting, the limbs are completely relieved and the wood is given its maximum lifespan.

If you choose to leave your wooden bow strung, you run the risk of warping the limbs. This happens because the wood grain is not uniform through a given piece of wood. As it naturally decomposes and dries out, it also expands and contracts along and across the grain. The constant stress on the string, which bends the limbs, speeds up the degradation process and can lead to warping. Luckily, if the warping isn’t severe, it can be fixed.

With a wooden bow with laminate limbs, the layers can come loose due to the constant stress on the limbs. When that happens, it’s game over and you’ll need a new set of limbs or a whole new bow.

Recommendation: Unclamp your wooden bow after each shooting.

Composite bows: When you’re done, unstuck them

Composite bows are those made from at least 2 different materials (even 2 different types of wood). The main goal is to choose materials with good tension for the base and materials with good compression for the abdomen.

A good example of this are the old string bows with horn bellies. Tendon has very good tension (and is also used for strings), while horn handles compressive forces very well. When they work together as a composite, the result is a bow that performs very well over a very long period of time.

In our day and age, a common type of composite bow is a wood-fiberglass laminate. Here the bow or the limbs are alternately layered from wood and fiberglass, glued and pressed together. The main reason fiberglass is used with wood is that it is a very flexible material and is not as prone to fatigue from repeated flexing as wood.

When you keep a wood composite bow strung, the same degradation mechanism is at work as with a solid wood bow. The only difference is that it takes much longer because of the help of the other material. For this reason, it is recommended to destress the bow after each session to maximize its life.

Synthetic bows: Can be stretched indefinitely…almost

Modern materials technology is absolutely amazing. In archery, the materials used for limbs and risers vary widely, but they all share a common goal: endurance. I was talking about the load-unload cycle of drawing and firing a bow.

All modern synthetic materials used to make bows are specifically designed to withstand these forces over thousands of repetitions. Of course it depends on the manufacturer, but basically this means that a modern bow can stay drawn indefinitely.

I still recommend decocking your bow simply because it’s a good habit to get into in the event you have multiple bows that may be wood, or if you plan on buying a wood bow someday in the future.

Sam – If you browse through the old “Archery” (NFAA) magazines, you’ll find the Pre-Pope and Young Club Days annual NFAA Big Game Awards list, which lists a lot of great information, such as the bow weights, the were used to pick up the animals… All of Fred’s listings that caught my eye had 70# for the bow weight. Fred used the best bow available for him at the time of each hunt from the 1930’s through the 1980’s. … these are some bows he used to kill big game in the 1960s… This information is from the poster shown. On some of the bows in the poster the handwritten dates and animals on the ribbon are visible on the bow… Top to bottom… 1959 Kodiak Purple Heart View Window… In 1960 Fred took the world record Alaskan Brown Bear with this bow and In 1961 Fred took a grizzly with him in British Columbia. 1965/66 Kodiak White Glass… In 1966 Fred took his polar bear with this bow. 1965 Exp T/D… In 1965 Fred took his Cape Buffalo and African Lion with this bow. 1964 Kodiak… In 1964 Fred took his elephant bull out of print with this bow. Probably a typo or someone not remembering a year before or after…

Actionwood – A popular limb core material made from laminated rock maple. While not fancy, Actionwood is strong and reliable, making it a great choice for heartwood.

Aiming – The concentrated effort of aiming an arrow at its target.

Anchor – Also known as an “anchor point”. Can be any specific point on the body used as a position to anchor the archer’s hand at full draw, most commonly a spot on the face such as B. the corner of the mouth. The arc is dragged to the same place each time for consistency. Once called “Anchorage”. Related Article: The Follow Through Anchor Related Forum Posts: Where’s Your Anchor, Anchor Point

Archer – Someone who shoots or is skilled with a bow and arrow.

Archer’s Paradox – The horizontal bend of an arrow as it circumnavigates the centerline of the bow, whereupon it straightens and flies its normal trajectory. Related forum post: Archer’s Paradox

Armguard – A scabbard on the bow arm that prevents the bowstring from banging against the arm or catching sleeves. Also known as a “bracer”.

Arrow – A straight, slender staff, usually fletched and sharpened, this is the projectile shot from a bow.

Arrowhead – The prominent end of the arrow, usually a separate piece attached to the arrow shaft.

Arrow Nock – A notch at the end of the arrow to accommodate the bowstring. Can be made from a variety of materials such as plastic, bone, metal, or wood, or can be cut directly into the stock, known as a self-nock.

Arrow Plate – A piece of leather or other material attached to the side of the sight window just above the arrow rest to absorb the chafing of the arrow upon release. See diagram above.

Arrow Shaft – A staff used to craft an arrow. Also called “stela”.

Arrow Rest – The flat or rounded part of the sight window where the arrow rests, just above the handle, and is usually covered with leather or felt. See diagram above.

Arrowsmith – A generic term used today to describe anyone who makes arrows. Originally, an arrowsmith was the maker of metal arrowheads; a fletcher was one who fletched and finished an arrow.

Ascham – A tall, slender wooden chest used to store bows and arrows. It’s pronounced “ask-am” and is named after Roger Ascham, author of Toxophilus, the first English book on archery.

Atlatl – A primitive handheld device used to throw a spear.

Back — The face of the bow facing away from the archer when the bow is drawn. See diagram above.

Reinforcement – Material placed on the back of the bow to reinforce the limbs, such as fiberglass, hickory, rawhide, baleen, sinew, or a variety of other materials.

Backset – A longbow design in which the unbraced limbs are angled back in a knee-jerk position, away from the archer. This construction preloads the limbs of the bow when they are braced. See diagram above.

Bamboo – A tropical grass used as bow heartwood. When heat treated, it creates a limb with exceptional elasticity and shape.

Banana Fletching – A fletching pattern with the highest part of the arch at or near the center of the fletching, tapering equally at both ends.

Barb – A tip of an arrowhead that flows back behind the ferrule, preventing the head from being easily pulled out. Illegal for bow hunting today.

Striped Feathers – Feathers with a striped appearance naturally found on wild turkeys or dusky domesticated birds (as opposed to white turkeys). Artificial feathers are less expensive and widely available.

Barrel Tapered Arrow – An arrow that is thickest in the middle and tapers down at both ends.

Belly – The side of the bow that faces the archer when he draws the bow, the side with the bowstring. See diagram above.

Billet – A piece of wood used to craft Selfbows. Billets are split from a side-by-side position in the same trunk to obtain similar limb performance characteristics, and spliced ​​into the grip section of a bow.

Blunt – A flat-tipped arrowhead used for small game hunting or roving.

Bodkin – A conical arrowhead with three or four sides. Formerly used to penetrate chain mail.

Bois d’Arc – Pronounced “bow-dark”. A French term for Osage Orange, meaning “wood of the bow”.

Bow – A weapon made from a long piece of material with a string connecting the two ends. When bent, it is the means by which an arrow is propelled. See diagram above.

Bowhunter – One who hunts with a bow and arrow, a name widely believed to have been coined by Roy Case around 1950.

Arc Length – The length of an arc, usually measured from cam to cam along the back of the arc.

Bowman – An archer. One who uses a bow and arrow.

Bow Nock – The tip of the bow limb which is grooved to accommodate the bowstring. Can also be made of horn or other material. See diagram above.

Archery Performance – The sum of all the different aspects of archery that satisfy the individual. Common aspects are accuracy, smoothness, grip comfort, degree of hand shock, quality, appearance, durability, travel comfort and arrow speed. Note that arrow speed is last in the list. Most bows are used for hunting deer. All hunting weight bows, regardless of arrow speed, will bring down deer with instinctive accuracy and a sharp broadhead.

Bowstring – The string used to draw a bow.

Bow Stringer – A device with leather cups on each end for stringing and unstringing traditional bows.

Bow Point – The outer end of a bow limb, often reinforced with either bone, micarta, wood, or horn.

Bow Weight – The pulling force, measured in pounds, required to draw a bowstring a specified span, typically 28 inches.

Bowyer – A person who crafts, builds, or manufactures traditional bows.

Strut – To string a bow to the recommended strut height.

Strut Height – The measured vertical distance from the braced bowstring to the lowest point of the belly of the handle. This measurement can be adjusted by twisting or untwisting the bowstring while tuning a bow. See Strut Height Consistency

Bracer – See Bracer.

Broadhead – An arrowhead with cutting edges (blades) used for bowhunting.

Brush Knob – A rubber knob on the bowstring where the string touches the belly of the recurve to prevent brush from getting caught between the bowstring and the tips of the limbs. See Brush Buttons

Cant – To tilt the bow off center when firing to remove the bow’s viewing window from view.

Throw – The farthest distance a bow will shoot an arrow.

Centerline – A straight line that runs through the center of the bow handle and extends through the center of the limbs to the limb tips.

Centershot – A design where the viewing window is cut at or above the centerline of the bow. This design reduces the effects of the archer’s paradox. Chrysal – A compression-caused hairline fracture on the belly of an autobow.

Clarified Calfskin – A processed calfskin, also known as rawhide, that is most commonly used to underlay auto bows.

Clicker – A device, usually attached to the bowstring on the belly of a bow, that makes a sound when the archer reaches full draw. Useful for solving target panics and learning when full turn is reached.

Rooster Feather – On a three-feather arrow, the feather is at right angles to the nock or string, perpendicular to the arrow plate.

Composite Bow – A bow made from strips of wood, fiberglass, horn, or other materials that are laminated together.

Compressed Shaft – An arrow shaft that has been compressed for strength and straightness. See Forgewood.

Cordovan – Leather that comes from the hind end of a horse and has a smooth texture. Used on shooting gloves and straps to allow smooth bowstring release.

Core — The material at the center of a laminated sheet.

Crester – A device used to easily rotate an arrow when applying colored ribbons or cresting.

Cresting – A distinctive mark, usually bands of different colors, on the fletched end of an arrow. See cresting and pictures

Crown – The pointed or rounded profile of an arrow rack designed to improve arrow clearance from the rack when shot.

Cross Dominance – An adverse effect on bow shooting, this is a condition where the dominant eye is reversed from the dominant side of the body. One such condition would be when a right-handed archer has a left dominant eye. The best solution is to switch to a left-handed shooting form. Related article: Help for Cross Dominance

Crown Dip – A colored varnish applied to the nock end of an arrow for decoration and identification. Typically, the crown dip is applied to the last ten inches of the arrow.

Dacron – The brand name for a synthetic polyester textile fiber used to make bowstrings.

Deflex – A bow design in which the limbs are angled toward the belly of the bow. See diagram above.

Deflex-Reflex – A bow design in which the limbs reflex from the riser back to the archer and then back to the limb tips. A very stable and efficient design and one of the most used today. See diagram above.

Delamination – The separation of limbs in a laminated bow due to either high heat, humidity, or a failed adhesive bond.

Domed Grip – A concave bow grip designed for repeatable hand placement on the bow.

Dominant Eye – Everyone has a dominant hand, arm, and eye. In archery, a right-handed archer should have a dominant right eye if he or she is ever going to shoot a traditional bow consistently. Related article: Dominant Eye

Draw Length – The length for a given archer from the front of the sight window to the bowstring in his fingers at full draw.

Draw Weight – The amount of pulling force, in pounds, exerted on the bowstring when it is drawn a specified distance; usually measured at 28 inch draw length.

Dry Fire – The release of a bowstring at full draw with no arrow attached. This event can cause the bow to break or splinter in the limbs. A faux pas to be avoided.

Dutchman – A small, cylindrical piece of wood firmly fixed in a knot hole in an arch.

Endless Line – A common line made from an endless piece of material that is threaded around the nock loops.

Face – See belly.

Fadeout – The tapered piece of wood that transitions from the riser to the knot.

Fast Flight – Brand name of a bowstring material used to make bowstrings. It’s a low stretch material, unlike Dacron, and can add up to seven fps, but also adds more stress to the bow limbs on shot. May only be used on bows designed for Fast Flight.

Feather – A whole feather or a section thereof used on an arrow for guidance.

Feet Per Second (fps) – The measurement of the speed of an arrow shot from a bow.

Ferrule – The cone-shaped part of a broadhead that fits over the conical end of an arrow.

Finger Pinch – A condition where the fingers of the string hand become pinched as the bow approaches full draw. This is caused by a bow length that is too short: the shorter the bow, the more likely the archer will feel pinched fingers.

Fishtail Joint – A “V”-shaped joint the length of the bowhand used to attach two sticks together to construct an autobow.

Fishtailing – The wobbling of an arrow left and right during its flight.

Fiberglass – A composite material of spun unidirectional glass fibers bonded in a high strength, flexible epoxy matrix containing approximately 68% glass fibers by weight.

Fistmele – This term comes from a medieval word meaning “fist” and was used as a method of measuring suspender height. Fistmele is the width of the fist with the thumb extended, used to set the distance from the bow handle to the bowstring.

Flat Bow – A straight-limbed bow modeled after the Plains Indian bows, with a relatively flat, wide bow.

Flemish Twist Bowstring – A popular style of bowstring that is easily hand-made and attributed to the people of the medieval region of Flanders.

Fletch – A term for gluing or tying feathers to an arrow shaft.

Fletcher – A person who actually makes arrows, as opposed to an arrowsmith, the person who makes metal arrowheads and tips.

Fletching – The feathers used to guide an arrow in flight.

Flu-Flu – Also spelled flea-fluh. Fletching that causes enough drag to intentionally slow an arrow so it doesn’t fly as far as it normally does. Feathers can be wrapped completely around the stock, or very large feathers can be used to create drag typically used for small game and aerial photography. The original name was “FLOO-HOO”, so called by Tommy, the Seminole Indian, in Maurice Thompson’s book The Witchery of Archery.

Follow the String – A term applied to bows that require a set of stringing and whose limbs do not return to their original position when unstrung. A disease most common in self-archers.

Footed Arrow – An arrow that has its butt or butt spliced ​​with hardwood to give the arrow greater durability and better balance.

Forgewood – A high density, small diameter, heavy weight compressed wood arrow shaft designed by the late Bill Sweetland of Oregon.

Glove – Also called shooting glove. Usually a three-fingered leather skeletonized glove to protect the fingers of the shooting hand when the string is drawn and the arrow released.

Grain – A small unit of weight commonly associated with arrows and broadheads, equal to 0.002285 ounces. There are 480 grains per ounce.

Hilt — The middle part of the bow hilt that the archer grips. Usually covered in leather on longbows and autobows. See diagram above.

Grip – The riser, or riser, of a bow to which the limbs are attached. The non-working section of an arc. See diagram above.

Hand Shock – The vibration felt in the bow hand upon release when shooting a bow.

Hen Feathers – On a three feather arrow, the two feathers that protrude inward towards the riser when the arrow is nocked on the string.

Heartwood – The heartwood of a tree.

Helical Twist – A method of applying fletching in a gentle spiral around the arrow shaft. The spiral fletching allows the arrow to spiral in flight, stabilizing the flight much sooner than with straight fletching. Very effective in hunting conditions where strong winds or crosswinds can occur.

Hinged Bow – A bow that has a hinge attached to the back for ease of travel.

Instinctive Shooting – The most popular method of shooting traditional bows. Instinctive shooting is the ability to use hand-eye coordination to send an arrow where the archer is looking.

Ishi – The last surviving Yana Indian of the Yahi Tribe of Northern California. Ishi lived and worked at the University of California, Berkeley, where he received his PhD. Saxton met Pope, who became friends with him. Ishi got Pope interested in archery, which promoted the sport in the United States.

Laminated Bow – Same as compound bow, except this term is most commonly used when describing a fiberglass and wood bow.

Lamination – One of the layers of a laminated arch member; thin layers of material bonded together to form a bow arm or riser. Generates strength in the risers and high power in the limbs.

Limb – The two parts of the bow that extend from the riser to the tips. The working part of a bow. See diagram above.

Limb Twist – A situation where the limbs of a recurve have taken an offset centerline of the bow. Usually a problem related to using the push-pull method of stringing the bow or from abusing the bow while in storage. Can be corrected.

Longbow – Generally any straight or nearly straight bow of 5 feet or longer where the bowstring does not touch the limb when taut.

Slack – Release an arrow on a fully drawn bow. Same as release.

Micarta – A dense, fiber-impregnated resin often used to reinforce the tips of the limbs when using a Fast Flight string on a bow.

Nock – The notch in the arrow behind the fletching that accepts the bowstring. Can be either a self-nock, which is a notch in the arrow shaft itself, or an open-necked plastic line retention device that does not pinch the string, or a snap-lock that does pinch the string.

Nocking Point – The spot on the bowstring where you consistently nock your arrows.

Nock Piece – A thin piece of horn, wood, or other material glued sideways into a self-nock to strengthen it. Related article: Self nocks for arrows made of laminated wood.

Nock Set – A metal clamp used on a bowstring to make it easier to nock the arrow in the same place every time. Can also be made of thread, dental floss, plastic or heat shrink material.

Osage Orange – A native North American wood that was historically popular for making homegrown bows. Also used for risers and heartwoods in laminated bows. Known for its resilience and toughness. Originally found at the confluences of the Illinois and Missouri rivers and later transplanted across the country. Also known as a hedge apple.

Overbow – A situation where the archer uses a bow that is too powerful; can lead to poor shooting habits, inaccuracy and physical harm to the shooter.

Overspine – Denotes an arrow that is too stiff for the bow from which it is fired, as opposed to underspine where the arrow is too weak for the bow.

Parabolic fletching – Feather fletching with a higher, rounded profile at the back end of the feather towards the nock of the arrow.

Pile – An old term still used today to refer to the front part of an arrow.

Point – The sleeve-like end of an arrow that attaches to the point to protect and balance the arrow’s striking end. Pile was the medieval name.

Aiming Point – A method of aiming in which the archer uses the arrowhead by aiming it at a specific object to achieve accuracy when shooting.

Point-On – The measure of the distance a particular bow and arrow will shoot when an archer points the tip of his arrow at the target point and hits that target.

Porpoise – The unwanted up and down movement of an arrow in flight.

Push-Pull Stringing – The act of stringing the bow by placing the lower limb against the instep of the shoe, pulling the grip portion inward (towards the archer), and then sliding the upper string loop into the cam groove of the upper limb. This is not a recommended method for stringing a bow as it can result in twisted limbs.

Quill – The shaft of a quill that is ground flat to fit the arrow.

Quiver – A container that conveniently stores arrows while hunting and/or shooting. There are different types for different purposes and preferences: back quiver, bow quiver, hip quiver, pocket quiver, shoulder quiver and solo quiver are the most common.

Recurve – A bow design in which the limbs form a constant arc of curvature from the riser to the limb tips, and when the bow is tight the string touches the belly of the limbs. See diagram above.

Reed – The grain of a wooden arrow against which the spine is measured, as opposed to the rift side of the wood.

Reflex – A bow design in which the bow arms, when not strung, curve slightly toward the back of the bow, away from the shooter. See diagram above.

Release – The act of releasing the bowstring at full draw, throwing the arrow away from the bow and archer. See lots.

Inverted Grip – A grip design in which the bow grip is flush with the bow belly and extends across the back of the bow. Reduces the brace height for a given arc.

Crack – The section of an arrow contained within the grain of the wood. Rift can be seen in a shaft as feathers in the wood. Related article: Direction of wood grain

Riser – The non-functional middle section of a bow that separates the limbs. See diagram above.

Roving – A form of practice in which the archer selects a target in the field or forest. The archers select small targets, such as piles of dirt, rotting stumps, or leaves at an unknown distance, shoot an arrow, and repeat the exercise on a new target. This is one of the most effective ways to learn how to shoot a traditional bow.

Sapwood – The outer, lighter, newer growth of a tree, just under the bark.

Self Arrow – An arrow made from a piece of wood with the nock cut into the shaft.

Selfbow – A bow made entirely from a wooden stick or dovetail sticks with no laminations. May be lined with sinew, rawhide, or other material to strengthen the back and prevent splinters of wood from lifting off and causing limb failure.

Serving – The thread or monofilament wrapped area in the middle of the string that receives the nockset. Used to protect the actual bowstring from constant stress when the arrow is nocked. Related Articles: Accuracy and Nock Fit, come unraveled.

Shaft – The dowel part or body of the arrow, sometimes used loosely to refer to the arrow itself.

Regal – The usually rounded protrusion at the base of the sighting window on which the arrow rests. Also called an arrow shelf, it is the portion of the riser on a bow that provides a platform for the arrow rest. See diagram above.

Shield Cut – Feather fletching with a concave profile on the back.

Viewport – The cut-out portion of a recurve or longbow riser that allows the arrow to get closer to the bow’s centerline. Helps reduce the effects of Archer’s Paradox. See diagram above.

Mufflers – Strands of material, either rubber, plastic, yarn, or natural material, attached to the string to prevent it from vibrating after the shot, eliminating string noise. Related article: Overlay, wool string muffler

Tendon – The tough, fibrous sinew material of an animal’s leg or loin, used as the backing material for many autobows.

Snapshot – A shooting method that has proven to be very effective for many archers. Also a condition associated with target panic.

Spine – There are two types of spine: static and dynamic. Static Spine is the stiffness, strength, and resilience of an arrow shaft as measured over a 26 inch span using a Spine Tester. In archery, it’s the stiffness of an arrow: more stiffness means more backbone. Usually measured in 5 pound increments for wooden darts e.g. 55/60 or 60/65. Dynamic backbone is the flexing characteristic of the stock when shot from a bow.

Spine Tester – A device used to measure the spine of arrow shafts. Related Article: Make Your Own Spine Tester

Stacking – Widely misunderstood slang for a bow that draws an increasing number of pounds or fractions of pounds per inch with each inch of pull.

Stables – Leather fingertip covers designed to look like a shooting glove without the strap. These only cover the corresponding fingertips of the shooter’s hand and slip in place.

Static Recurve – An older recurve bow design in which the limb tips bend backwards abruptly.

Stave – A full-length, unspliced ​​piece of wood used to make an auto bow.

Straight Fletch – The placement of feathers parallel to the shaft with no helical twist.

String Groove – A shallow groove in the belly of a recurve limb where the string lies.

String Holder – A piece of leather, cord, or ribbon attached to the bowstring loop on one side and to the bow limb tip on the other side. Used to keep the string taut when the bow is unstrung. Also called “bow band”.

Stump Shooting — See Roving.

Swage – The conical shape of an aluminum arrowhead to accommodate any number of glue dots or broadheads.

Latch – A flat piece of leather worn on the string hand to protect the three drawing fingers from loosening the bowstring. Related article: Make your own leather tab

Takedown Bow – The most common name for a bow that falls apart at the handle to make the bow shorter and easier. Can be a 2 or 3 piece bow, recurve, longbow or autobow.

Tapered Arrow – An arrow that tapers from 23/64″ to 5/16″ at the nock, usually starting about 9 inches from the nock. A tapered arrow exits the bow, especially a longbow, much more quietly because the arrow rubs less against the arrow plate.

Target Panic – The inability to lose the arrow, but more often to let the arrow fly before full draw is reached. Once referred to as “archer’s catalepsy”. Related article: Target Panic

Tassel – A tassel of yarn that was once worn on an archer’s belt to clean arrows.

Taxus Brevifolia – The genus and species of yew wood used to make auto bows.

Throat – The narrowest part of the grip where the thumb and forefinger grip the grip. See diagram above.

Thumb Ring – A simple ring for the thumb used to pull and release the cord.

Tiller – The difference between the measurements of the upper and lower limbs from the bowstring to the abdomen at fadeout. Most bows are usually stocked to allow for a stiffer lower limb as the drawing hand is placed over the middle of the string.

Wooden Hook – A knot that when used on a bowstring forms an adjustable loop to quickly change the length of the bowstring.

Tip Overlays – Material laminated to the back of the tip of the limb, usually to reinforce it and to provide additional material for shaping the tendon nocks.

Torque – The inadvertent twisting of the bow in the hand during firing, causing undesirable arrow flight.

Toxonana – The Literature of the Bow and Ancient Bow Equipment.

Toxophile – A very old word for archery; a “toxophile” is a person who loves or is proficient in a bow and arrow.

Traditional – knowledge, customs, teachings, lore and practices passed down from generation to generation.

Tune – The process of getting a bow to shoot an arrow straight and quiet, eliminating fishtailing and porpoises. Related article: Tuning 101, paper tuning

Underspine – Said of an arrow that is too flexible for the bow from which it is fired as opposed to an overspined arrow where the arrow is too stiff for the bow.

Sharpening – For sharpening or honing, e.g. B. a knife or a broadhead.

Yew – Extremely popular self-bow wood, used by archers in many parts of the world over the centuries. Found in the coastal regions of the western United States. Macht auch hervorragende Wurfarmlaminate für Bögen.

String connecting the two ends of an arch stave

Japanese string (tsuru) and woven string holder (tsurumaki).

A bowstring connects the two ends of the bow staff and shoots the arrow. Desirable properties include light weight, strength, abrasion resistance, and water resistance. The mass has the greatest effect in the middle of the string; An additional gram (0.035 ounces) of mass mid-string slows the arrow up to 3.5 grams (0.12 ounces) at the ends.[1]

String forms [ edit ]

Most bowstrings can be described as either single, reverse twisted, or looped.[2]

Simple strings can be made of any fiber twisted into a single cord. Such strings have been used in many parts of the world and are still effective and fairly quick to manufacture. However, they tend to be weaker for their weight and can also fall apart if not kept under constant tension. They are usually attached to the bow by a knot/round twist and two half hitches at each end.

Back-twisted strings are traditional in Europe and North America for most natural materials. Linen and hemp fibers are widely used. The shape is also used for modern materials. A reverse twisted string consists of separate bundles, each bundle individually twisted in one direction; the entire group of bundles is then twisted in the other direction. The result tends to be stronger for its weight than plain or looped cord and holds together better than plain cord. Unlike some looped strings, the entire thickness of the string wraps around the nocks at the ends of the bow, where wear is usually greatest. Additional threads can also be inserted at the nocking points for the bowstaff and for the arrow, which are likely to be wear points. The string may be attached to the bow at each end by a knot, usually a wooden hitch, also known as a bowmaker’s knot.

The traditional “Flemish” string has an inlaid loop at one end, which is easier than most knots to place over the nock of the bow when stringing and relaxing. It’s more trouble; The short length toward one end that will form the loop is twisted backwards first. The ends of each bundle are then placed into the main length of bundles, which in turn are twisted backwards. The Japanese bowstring is made by twisting backwards in different directions in the core and outer layers of the string. See kyūdō.

Loop cords consist of one or more continuous loops of material. Modern strings are often made as a single endless loop: this is then used to give the final shape. Disadvantages include less fiber at the ends where wear is most likely; This can be overcome by operating the string.

A Turkish bowstring knot

In many parts of Asia, traditional cords have a single loop down the middle, with the ends made up of separate lengths tied together with a special knot.[3] This design allows for the use of additional fibers at the ends where weight is less important and wear is more likely.

String materials [ edit ]

Traditional materials include linen, hemp, other plant fibers, hair, sinew, silk, and rawhide. Almost any fiber can be used in an emergency. Natural fibers would be very unusual on a modern recurve or compound bow, but are nonetheless effective and are still used on traditional wood or compound bows. Tendon and skin cords can be seriously attacked by water.[4] The author of Arab Archery suggests the skin of a young, emaciated camel.[5] Njál’s saga describes a woman, Hallgerður, refusing to cut her hair to make an emergency bowstring for her husband, Gunnar Hámundarson, who is then killed.

Common modern materials are stronger for their weight than any natural material, and most are impervious to water. They include:

Dacron (strength per strand = 22.5 kg (50 lb), elongation = 2.6%), a commonly used polyester material. Because of its durability and stretch, Dacron is commonly used for beginner gear, wooden bows, and older bows. The relatively high stretch causes less impact on the bow, which is an important aspect for recurves with a wooden handle. Dacron strings are easy to care for and can last for several years.

Liquid crystal polymers such as Kevlar and Vectran (strength per strand = 31.8 kg (70 lb), elongation = 0.8%) are polymer materials with a higher density and smaller diameter than Dacron, resulting in a higher arrow speed (about 2 meters per arrow). second (6.6 ft/s) faster). There are two problems with this material. [citation needed] First, its limited stretch causes increased stress in the limbs of the arch. Second, a Kevlar bowstring may only last 1000 shots before breaking due to its tendency to fatigue due to flexing at the nocking point. Failure occurs suddenly rather than gradually.

Ultra high molecular weight polyethylenes such as Spectra and Dyneema (strength per strand = 45.5 kg (100 lb), elongation = 1.0%) have been used since the 1990’s. They are lighter and therefore faster than Kevlar – and have a much longer lifespan.

Modern strings are often made from composite fibers – like a blend of Vectran and Dyneema – to take advantage of both.

Serve [ edit ]

Serving a bowstring refers to the use of an additional thread, commonly wrapped around the main string at the nocking points where abrasion is most likely, and also used on looped strings to hold the two sides of the loop together.

See also[edit]

Entire description

Fast Flight bowstring material

Fast Flight bowstring material is a high performance bowstring material.

An improved version of the old Fast Flight. Less stretch and more power.

A high-performance string material for fast, high-quality bows, Traditional Speed ​​Flight transfers much more energy to the bow and arrow than a Dacron bowstring. Please check with your bow manufacturer before using Fast Flight string material on your bow.

SPECIFICATIONS:

The following is an attempt to describe how to make a bowstring, a relatively simple task but complex to explain in written words and diagrams. However, attempts have been made to use information and diagrams from various sources. We hope to continue to add to the information, particularly about compound bowstrings and cables.

Comments are welcome!

introduction

Bowstrings are probably the simplest thing to craft or customize for a bow. The most common string used is the endless loop, which most people use for recurve and compound bows. There are other types, one of which is called the “Flemish Twist” (usually used on traditional longbows, and we’ll leave it at that for now). We will only focus on the former. Below are a few things you’ll need to get started.

Materials needed

1. String Material

The type of bowstring material you use is entirely up to you. However, make sure your bow is rated for the bowstring you intend to use.

Most older bows with wood or wood/glass limbs are not designed for high performance strings like Fast Flight, BCY 450 etc. and Dacron is the preferred choice for these older or lightly constructed recurve bows.

Dacron is also used for compound bows where the cables are still steel. Although Kevlar is well known as a bowstring material, it is generally no longer used and is now not recommended.

Fast Flight and its equivalents are a must for today’s high-performance recurve bows and for the string and cable systems of almost all compound bows.

As well as getting your favorite bowstring material, it is highly recommended that you get some Dacron string material for practice purposes. Relatively inexpensive compared to other string materials, Dacron strings can be used to make your first practice strings.

DACRON B-50 FASTFLIGHT KEVLAR BCY 450

2. String gauge

You need a string gauge. Commercial jigs such as the Arten String Jig (see below) are available from pro shops and retailers. This is an easily portable telescopic gauge that allows you to change the length of the cord.

You can also build your own string jig (and probably make a sturdier one), but we won’t go into details here.

A stable tensioning device is important to ensure even tension on the bowstring you are making.

BOWSTRING JIG

3. Serving material

Serving materials are available in many colors and styles. The most commonly used types are braided nylon, monofilament, and fast flight. Other materials such as Dyneema are also available.

These materials are used to finish your string loops and make center serve while protecting your string from pinching.

For recurve bowstrings, Fast Flight is a good choice for the center wrap and braided nylon for the end loops.

For compound bowstrings and cables, Fast Flight is recommended to wrap end loops and center serve. Monofilament and braided nylon can also be considered for the middle wrap.

#4 BRAIDED NYLON #18 MONOFILAMENT FLASTFIGHT SERVING

4. String serving jig

Line serving devices ensure constant tension when laying your serving material. It’s a handy tool and any archer seriously considering making bowstrings should invest in one.

STRING SERVER JIG WITH YELLOW DYNEEMA SERVING

Making the bowstring

Now that you have all the materials ready, we can start making the bowstring.

Step 1: Determine the length of the bowstring

If you already have a string for your bow, unwind the string and measure its length. Otherwise, determine the length of your bow.

On a recurve bow, your string length should be about 3.5 inches shorter than your bow length. So if you’re using a 68″ bow your string length should be around 64.5″ replace or want to check the manufacturer’s specs, these are usually listed on the front of the lower limb near the riser.

It is advisable to add about 1/4 inch to the determined string or cable length to allow for some twist.

Step 2: Determine the bow string strand

A bowstring is made up of several strands of bowstring material. The number of strands to use depends on the material you choose and also your bow weight. To find your recommended number of strands you can use the following formula:

40 pounds x 4/10 pounds = 16 strands

If your maximum bow weight is 40lbs and your string has an ultimate elongation of 10lbs (i.e. your string will break when you apply 10lbs of force to it), your recommended number of strands is 16.

The above is one way you can determine your string size. But often people don’t really go that far to determine their bowstring size. The number of recommended strands to use is likely to be available at the professional archery shop where you purchase your string material, or perhaps from people at your club and of course on the internet. From the recommended strand size, you can add or subtract 1 to 2 strands to suit your shooting style, and when it comes to club training equipment, durability is also an important factor.

Below is an example of the string size you could use for some of the string materials on the market (recurve bows only).

For composite strings and cables, it’s best to stick to the manufacturer’s original strand count + or – 1 or 2.

Note: Adding more strands to your string will make it stronger, but decrease arrow speed.

Bow weight Number of strands (recurve bows) Dacron Fast Flight S4 BCY450 20-25 lbs 8 14 7 10 25-35 lbs 10 16 8 12 35-40 lbs 12 18 9 14 45-55 lbs 14 20 10 16

* The number of strands shown is for guidance only.

Step 3: Setting Up the Bow String Jig

Before proceeding with the construction of your bowstring jig, let’s look at the basic anatomy of a string jig.

Figure 3.1

A telescopic string tensioner is shown above. The central column of this device consists of at least two parts which are connected by a locking bolt.

The length of the device can be adjusted by sliding the two columns up and down and securing with the locking pin.

The 4 changing posts, labeled A, B, C and D above, can be rotated at the pivot points shown. This allows the 4 posts to be aligned in a straight line (Figure 3.2).

Figure 3.2

Adjust the jig for the length of string you want to build and secure the locking bolt. Note: String length is measured from the far left of post A to the far right of post D.

Step 4: Laying the Cord

Now that your template is all set up, you can start routing your string material.

Figure 4.1

Locate the running end of your thread material (thread) and tie it to winding pin A. Wrap the thread around winding pins A and D until you have the required number of strands. Remember that a complete loop (A to D to A) consists of 2 strands. Keep the thread as evenly taut as you can as you wrap it around the posts. When you have wound the desired number of strands, carefully untie the end of the thread on post A and tie it to the other end of the thread.

Maintain tension in the string while tying the two ends together.

Step 5: Measure the loop

By now you have placed your bowstring in the string jig. The next step is to operate the loop (the groves at the end of your limbs). Different bow limbs can have different loop sizes. To measure yours, take a piece of string and wrap it around the limb groove between points X and Y (Figure 5.1). Mark the string for points X and Y and measure the distance. This is your loop size.

Figure 5.1

Most limbs have a loop size between 2.5″ (60 mm) and 3.5″ (85 mm). You can also consider making one loop larger than the other.

This makes it easier to tell which end goes with which link. Have you ever strung your string backwards? This is just one of the practical reasons for different loop sizes. The other is that when you string your bow, you typically put one loop over the limb and slide the other into the limb.

One of the loops needs to be larger to fit the wider section of your limb. While the other end, if made too big, will cause it to “wander” out of the grove easily.

Step 6: Operate the loop

Carefully turn the winding columns A/B and C/D back into their original position.

Try to balance the tension as you rotate the uprights.

Figure 6.1

Mark the midpoint between posts A and B (Figure 6.2). When you find the center, mark the loop position. So if your loop size is 3 inches, mark 1.5 inches left and right of the center point (labeled 1 and 2 below).

Make sure the knot you made serves within 0.5 inch of the end of the loop.

Figure 6.2

You can now start operating the loop. Start serving approximately 6mm to the left of point 1 and end 3mm to the right of point 2.

This extra portion serves as an overlap when finishing the ending (explained later).

Figure 6.3

Pull a length of serving twine from the spool and drape it about 25mm across your bowstring.

Figure 6.4

Serve about 10 to 15 turns of serving cord by going over and under the bowstring and the 1″ (25mm) of serving cord. Slowly pull on the “first end” to tighten the serving.

Make sure to start serving at a point half an inch from your mark (Figure 6.3).

Figure 6.5

Keep using your string server to the end.

Cut the serving thread and attach it to the serving (on the cord) with a drop of superglue; or Do not cut the serving thread. Take a small piece of tape and secure the end of the portion (stop the portion from unwinding).

Figure 6.6

Slowly rotate Uprights A and B so they are parallel to the Center Column. Pull your cord so that the portion has an 20 cm overlap. Please refer to the chart below. Note that the end with the serving spool is 1″ shorter. Next, cut the thread of the first end protruding from the portion.

Figure 6.7

You can now start tying the bow. Pull your portion string off the spool and start winding it about 3.5 cm from the end of the shorter portion (Figure 6.8). For this reason we serve the extra quarter inch at the beginning and one eighth of an inch at the end.

Figure 6.8

The type of serve is the same as before (Figure 6.5). Continue the cuff about 3.5 inches (see Figure 6.9). At this point, you need to prepare the serve to end with a “blind end.”

Figure 6.9

Take a piece of bowstring or serving twine about 4 to 6 inches long. Lay the scrap line across the area where you will hit as shown in Figure 6.10 below. Serve as usual for about 10 to 15 turns, or for about an additional quarter of an inch.

Figure 6.10

When you’re done serving, peel and cut an additional 2 to 3 inches from the coil. Take the running end of this portion and place it in the loop of the rest of the cord. Gently but firmly pull the scrap line. Your serving end is pulled together with the scrap cord.

Once the serving end is pulled through, gently pull to tighten your portion. Cut the excess serving string that is sticking out and you’re done.

Figure 6.11

Now do the same for the other loop end, ie. between posts C and D.

Step 7: Center Serving (Nocking Point)

To serve the middle of the string, or middle portion, it is usually best to remove the bowstring from the jig and string it to the bow. Twist your string about 10 to 15 turns before stringing. This will shorten your string close enough to your normal string height. Use a bow square to mark your nocking point on the string. Then mark two more points. One 5 cm above the nock point and the other at least 8 cm below the nock point. Serve between these two points. You can serve longer or shorter than this recommended length if you wish.

Figure 7.1

See “Step 6: Serving The Loop” for serving instructions.

Step 8: Completing the Cord

Rub the string with some wax before using it for the first time. Rub the string vigorously (not roughly!) with a rag or leatherette. The heat generated by rubbing softens the wax and protects the string. Don’t grow the portion. If you accidentally get some on the middle portion, sprinkle some talcum powder on top. The last thing you want is a finger tab or release assist ropes or jaws stuck to the string!

Making bowstrings only takes a little practice to master. Archers who are serious about their shooting should learn how to make their own bowstrings. You have more control over the quality of your string compared to the ones you buy. Here I have tried to explain the process of a bowstring in eight steps. I just hope I didn’t make it seem so complicated and scared you were string makers out there. It’s really easy!

things to consider

If you have to turn your string more than 20 turns to reach your string height, your string is too long. On average, 15 turns equals about half an inch. So if you have to twist your string 30 turns, shorten your string length by half an inch. (15 turns in the string is normal) If your string is too short, do not attempt to shoot with it. A short cord puts stress on your limbs and may even cause them to break. Always check your string for fraying or defects before stringing. If in doubt, DO NOT use the string. Slight fraying can usually be fixed by waxing the string. A clean, waxed and cared for string will give you a lot of pleasure. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for recommended string life. If you think you can only make one bowstring a year, then please don’t choose short life strings like Kevlar and Vectran.

If you have any questions, please log on to the forum and ask your questions there or use the form on our contact page.