Epoxy River Table With Bark? 287 Most Correct Answers

Epoxy resin is such a versatile product that it can be used on a wide variety of projects. One of the most popular uses of epoxy is to fuse it to wood. You can easily use epoxy to seal the wood and make permanent repairs to your wood. You can also create amazing design table tops by pouring the resin into the wood. Epoxy resin can also be used on countertops and floors. Even create beautiful 3D resin floors. Below are some ideas about the most popular uses and we’ll show you how to implement them.

Epoxy resin overview

The general definition of epoxy resin is that it is made from thermoset polymers. Two components, a hardener and the resin, together form a solid surface. To achieve the best finish, the two components must be mixed in the perfect ratio. This then leads to a chemical reaction and the end result is a durable surface that is resistant to chemicals, solvents, water and surface abrasion.

For the best end results, the process relies on the following:

Make sure the surface to be coated is thoroughly cleaned and prepared.

Proper mixing time and ratio, following manufacturer’s instructions is critical.

An ideal working environment.

The process begins when resin and hardener are thoroughly mixed, an exothermic reaction begins. The liquid then becomes gel-like and eventually hardens into a solid and viscous surface.

The curing process will take some time depending on what you are doing. Other factors affecting curing time are:

environment and temperature.

What kind of hardener are you using.

The amount of heat given off.

The type and temperature of the substrate to be covered. Surfaces can be wood, metal, laminate, concrete, etc.

The one factor you should consider the most is heat. The warmer the epoxy is, the faster it will cure. If the epoxy reaction gets too hot, it can cause problems, even if nearby materials are melting. The epoxy may also not cure properly.

Best epoxy for wood

Wood reacts to moisture, causing it to either swell as moisture increases or shrink slightly when dry. This is a problem that makes it difficult to get wood and resin together. You need to know what kind of application to use.

Some factors to consider in your wood and resin projects:

Will your item be exposed to the sun and elements?

A thick resin should be used for casting molds and filling cracks and holes in wood.

Use a thinner resin to coat your wood surfaces.

Epoxy resin and UV protection

Crystal clear epoxy is a popular and common choice, but will yellow over time. So if you want to use epoxy in outdoor applications, you need to get a UV resistant resin. You can also buy other additives that improve fade resistance.

epoxy resin and shrinkage

Epoxy resin shrinks less compared to polyester resin, but it can still cause problems. As the resin shrinks, you may find that areas you thought were covered are only partially covered. That means you have to apply another coat, which costs more money and time. To get around this, buy a resin with the lowest shrinkage rate. The product should of course also be of excellent quality in order to achieve the most reliable results possible.

Epoxy resin layer thickness for each casting

Especially with molds and tables you should pay attention to the maximum epoxy resin layer. Find out which products can be cast in which thickness and what quantity you can use. Your average commercial resin can be used to cast a maximum layer of 2cm and the amount you can use is around 10kg. If you exceed this amount, the reaction will generate large amounts of heat and this can cause the resin to cure instantly. The resin leaves ugly stains and is not what you are aiming for.

Resin epoxy strength and heat resistance

The hardness of the resin can vary from soft to hard. The soft resin can be damaged by scratches, while the hard resin is scratch-resistant and can withstand higher temperatures. You should consider buying the highest quality resin for the items you intend to use frequently. Items like tabletops or cutting boards, for these you will need a more resilient resin. Remember to always follow manufacturer’s directions and mix ratio for best results.

Recommendations on epoxy resin for wood products

Best epoxy for pouring with wood: FGCI Deep Pour Epoxy

This extremely viscous casting resin comes in a 2-part, three-quarter gallon kit. You can cast it up to 2 to 4 inches thick and it is the best resin for castings, flow tables, live edges and other uses. The resin cures glossy and clear with a professional look. You can also tint with mica powder for effect.

The resin contains UV blockers so you can put it in the sun but don’t leave your item outside. When applying a deep cast, remember that it will take some time to fully set. This product can take anywhere from 32 to 72 hours to start curing, but can take up to seven days to fully cure. The time depends on the temperature. If you need to add a second layer, wait until it’s just starting to set and become a little sticky. Also, preferably wait for it to fully cure before using your item.

Benefits You can cast from 2 to 4 inches deep

The finish is glossy and clear

The viscosity is low and easily covers corners and cracks.

Easy to work with

The working time is long Disadvantages There are no known disadvantages

For sealing: PRO MARINE Crystal Clear Tabletop Coating

This product performs excellently and produces a nice clear coating that is easy to apply. Once the resin has cured, it is durable and resistant to scratches and liquids. Ideal for bar tops and river tables. This product can be applied to a wide range of surfaces including wood.

The resin contains 100% solids and therefore offers the best color and has the best air release properties. You can easily use it for a deep pour that will help eliminate problems like creep, fisheye, or craters.

The product is FDA approved, so it can be used on surfaces where food will be. Ideal for river table tops, bar tops, glassware, drinking glasses, a variety of craft projects and home repair jobs.

Benefits Is non-toxic and contains no VOCs.

Easy to use.

Can be applied to numerous surfaces.

FDA approved

Hardens beautifully clear

Produces a glossy, scratch-resistant surface. Cons Takes time to fully cure, around 72 hours.

You only have a working time of approx. 35 minutes.

Let’s take a look at a few application ideas

Epoxy resin and sealing of wooden surfaces

Epoxy resin is the perfect choice when it comes to a wood sealing product. After application, the wood becomes waterproof and protected from damage such as abrasion. You can use epoxy resin for sealing in the following cases:

As a floor coating

kitchen worktops

On furniture

Used on cutting boards

tabletops

Epoxy resin guide for sealing wood

When working with epoxy, your workspace is critical to getting the best epoxy coating results. The environment should be dry and dust free, and the temperature of your environment, the wood and the epoxy should be the same. So you can easily achieve excellent results. The best epoxy resin for sealing wood are so-called laminating resins. These are available in medium to high viscosity and cure to a hard and durable finish.

Preparation of the wood surface

In order to achieve excellent adhesion to the wood, you have to consider a few things. First, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned and completely dried. Make sure you remove any oily or greasy stains as these can interfere with resin application. The surface should also be a bit rough for better adhesion, so some sanding may be needed.

To thoroughly dry your surface you can use a heat gun. You can then start sanding the surface, either with an electric sander or by hand. If you find your wood is oily, you can simply apply some acetone.

After sanding, remove any dust by vacuuming and brushing the surface. Take a soft cloth (lint-free) with some solvent and rub the surface clean. When finished, do not touch the surface with your hands, as your hands could be dirty, which could ultimately affect the quality of the adhesion.

Add a barrier along the edge to prevent resin from overflowing. You can use good quality tape that should stand up to the resin liquid. The surface you are coating should also be level, you want a nice even coat of resin.

It’s best to determine the amount of epoxy you need before you begin. You can easily calculate this with a resin calculator. This is important as you only have a certain amount of time to work with the resin.

Always mix thoroughly but gently to avoid excessive bubbles. You can now incorporate color into the epoxy mix. There are many color options, with each material having its own characteristics. So do your research before settling for the best results. You can read about this in articles on paint and epoxy.

Start pouring from the center of your surface, moving in a circular or zigzag motion, this will help distribute the resin evenly. The mixture needs to mix evenly, so you may need to water again. Once you’re done, you can continue leveling it a few minutes later.

Once the mixture begins to level, bubbles may form. These bubbles should be removed with a hand torch. Keep moving the torch back and forth to keep one spot from getting too hot. The bubbles rise to the surface and burst when heat is applied.

Depending on the type of product, the mixture will remain liquid for a while. You can work with it and get the thickness you want before it starts to harden. Once the mixture begins to harden it will appear gel-like at first, at which stage you should stop working on it.

You may be able to apply a second coat of epoxy without sanding if the first coat isn’t fully cured. This can be tried about 48 hours after the first coat, as the epoxy has not yet fully cured, the second coat can be easily bonded to it.

Epoxy resin works and spreads better when warm, you can put the resin in some warm water before pouring. The room you are working in can also be warm, as colder temperatures will affect the flow of the epoxy.

Epoxy resin and stained wood

You can use epoxy on stained wood. To ensure that everything works according to plan, you can do a small test beforehand. Most stain stains work well, but to avoid damaging your piece of wood, do a little test first. As always, everything has to be completely dry before you start.

A UV-resistant stain would be an advantage, because once the epoxy layer is finished, you can no longer change anything. If you are considering removing the epoxy you might want to reconsider as it is a big job and will take you quite a while.

In general, solvent based wood stains might not be a good idea, but water based stains should be fine as long as they are completely dry before applying the epoxy.

Fill wood with epoxy resin

When working with wood you get many different species, some with knots or cracks which adds a certain uniqueness. If the surface you are working on needs to be flat, e.g. a table, and you want to keep those blemishes, you can use epoxy to fill in the cracks. How is that done?

First remove any dust or loose pieces of wood.

Again, preparation is important as little time will change after watering. Take some good quality tape and place it around each crack or hole so the resin doesn’t get everywhere. Remember to mask off the back of the wood as well. Sometimes a hole goes straight through.

Mix resin and hardener thoroughly. In many cases, a colored resin works best, such as a dark pigment for wooden tabletops. Try mixing a color that offers a consistent effect.

Fill the cracks or holes to the surface, leave for a few minutes, then come back to see if any of the resin has sunk down. You don’t want to have to make extra resin mix later. Some epoxies can shrink, so the less it shrinks, the less it will sink as it cures.

Keep track of your time. For example, if the curing time is about 30 minutes, then you only have about 20 minutes to work with the mixture. In this case, you should make smaller batches of epoxy rather than a large batch.

When filling a hole with epoxy, it’s best to add a little too much. The overflowing resin will be stopped by the tape you put on. The hardened resin can also be sanded off. Filling cracks and holes with epoxy should be a fairly easy task for anyone.

Pouring with wood

Make amazing works of art or functional items by casting wood in epoxy. You can craft jewelry, artwork, pens, and more. For casting molds you will need:

A custom shape.

Angle cast mold constructed from resin coated plastic panels. These are screwed and then sealed with silicone. This type of mold requires experience.

Silicone molds that are readily available and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. This is the easiest method, you just place the wood in your mold and pour your epoxy over it.

Remember to figure out the thickness to which you can layer your resin. You may need to add several more layers to the shape. Adding the next layer to the previous layer that is not fully cured or cured.

Grind after full curing

In many cases when working with wood you will need to sand off excess epoxy. The more precise you work, the less you have to do. When is the perfect time to grind? Between 48 and 72 hours is the best time, but that also depends on what product you used. Once the epoxy is fully cured it will not sand well as the surface becomes quite hard.

However, it is still possible to do this, the process is as follows:

Start sanding with a coarse 80 grit sandpaper and work your way up to the fine 2000 grit sandpaper. Be sure to remove the scratches caused by the coarse sandpaper.

Hand sand smaller items and use an electric sander for larger projects.

If you are busy, use the wet sanding technique as it is more effective and generates less dust.

Always wear a respirator when sanding as you don’t want to breathe in the dust.

Completion of your work: oiling and painting

The fully cured surface is great without any further steps. However, you can improve the appearance by adding more shine. Grinding and polishing the surface will make it perfect. The exposed wood also needs to be treated to protect it from liquids.

Small objects can be easily polished with a cloth and polishing paste. Buff in a circular motion and you’ll have a shiny finish in no time.

You can also add wood polish to exposed pieces of wood.

Larger areas can be polished with an electropolisher. Polishing is done quickly and the shine is much better than by hand.

You can also use a quality polyurethane paint to get a professional finish. Otherwise some hard wood wax will do the job on the resin and wood. Carnauba wax is an excellent choice as it works perfectly on both wood and resin. Apply with an electric polisher as it is an extremely hard natural wax.

Let it dry completely, after a few days you can add more layers until you notice that the oil is no longer being absorbed. You can polish again at the end, that should really make it shine.

Using epoxy to repair wood

First find out what the problem is. If this is not possible, you may need to call in a professional. In order to apply the best solution, you must determine exactly where the problem lies. For example, you find that wood rots due to excess moisture. You then need to replace the damaged wood with something more permanent like teak or white oak. You might also want to put a metal plate between the old and new wood.

Another problem is when the paint degrades and the wood is exposed to moisture and then rots. Here you can simply apply another fresh coat of high-quality paint. In both of these cases, new materials were incorporated to solve the problem. Still, more difficult problems could arise. Epoxy resin can then save the day.

Always dry the wood properly first. This may take some time but is an essential step as you don’t want any remaining moisture to spoil anything further. Also, the wood surface won’t adhere very well to the epoxy if it’s not properly dried.

Next, let’s look at how to repair wood with epoxy.

Remove the damaged wood or try to save it

You can test the damage to the wood by simply poking a few pieces with a screwdriver and see how the wood does. Next you can either stabilize the wood with an epoxy consolidant or remove any damaged areas.

If you want to get rid of some wood, you can use a screwdriver, paint scraper, or chisel. After seeing how bad the damage is, you can remove the paint and rotten wood. Old paint can contain lead so it would be wise to learn how to safely remove this.

Can the woodcut be saved? If so, dry it out completely and drill two ¼-inch holes one inch apart. Apply your epoxy setting agent which should be absorbed by the wood. Do you find yourself working on a vertical incline? Drilling deeper holes might work better for that. This is to ensure that the consolidator spreads more efficiently.

Try not to drill through the wood, but if you do, just use some putty to fill the hole and keep the consolidant from seeping out. See below for use of epoxy consolidant.

Applying liquid epoxy consolidant

Make sure you work in a well-ventilated area and as there are some fumes it’s a good idea to wear a respirator. The amount of setting agent you use is important as it needs to be accurate for epoxy. So read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to do it right.

You have finished the product and drilled the holes in the wood, next apply the consolidant to the holes. You can also use a brush to make sure everything is covered, keep doing this until the wood is saturated.

Allow the wood to dry for about a week and cover the area with plastic sheeting to protect from dust and rain. The sheet can go outside on sunny days, which can also help in the drying process.

External epoxy filler

You can start this step even if the consolidant is not fully cured.

Follow these steps:

Using a stick, take the golf ball-sized epoxy putty or putty from Part A and Part B.

Using a mixing board, mix the two parts thoroughly.

Label lids A and B so you don’t mix up what goes where, which could result in you sticking the wrong lid on a container.

Make sure you have separate sticks for everything.

Make sure your mixing items and board are properly cleaned. If cured epoxy is left, it can mix with the new and reduce your labor time.

Next, consider the temperature, which determines the hard point of the filter. At a temperature of 21°C you have 30 minutes to work with the resin. The epoxy will start to cure much faster in warmer conditions.

Therefore, if you are working outdoors, it is recommended that you do so in the shade to keep things cooler. Once you’re done, you can put anything you’re working on back in the sun to speed up the curing time.

Applying the epoxy putty

Use your spatula to fill the epoxy filler into the wood. Apply with pressure to ensure the wood and epoxy bond properly. When it comes to deep areas and you want to make sure the putty knife gets everywhere, you can use an extra piece of wood.

Place these carved wooden blocks after applying the putty into the hole. You can then apply more filler over everything for best results. If you use additional wood, make sure the wood is similar to the wood you are repairing and the grains should also line up properly.

shape filler

You can shape the filler with your hands as you need, only wear gloves. If you find the filler is too much, that’s okay, it’ll be better and easier to shape when it’s done. You don’t have to be exact about the shape as long as it adheres to all adjacent materials. Allow to dry, leave as long as the weather requires.

Transform the shape

Test the epoxy to see how hard it is, as long as it doesn’t dent you can start sanding. Start shaping with a rasp or surform plane. Drive along the natural contours of the adjacent forest. Once that initial shaping is done you can use some sandpaper for a more detailed look.

When sanding, you can fold your sandpaper around something cylindrical to get a better result. You also don’t want to sand other areas that don’t need it, so this step requires accuracy and perseverance. If you rush the job, you will only be dissatisfied with the results.

If you find that too much epoxy has been removed, you can easily add another layer. Thoroughly clean the area and have your filler ready and mix it properly. For a thin layer, you can try applying consolidant first and then filler to the area to get the right thickness. Use a dryer to heat the added layer, after that you can sand again. Finish this step by painting over another normal layer, this should take an exceptionally long time.

When using sandpaper, start with an 80 grit paper and then choose a 120 grit paper for finer work. To protect your health, wear safety goggles and a face mask. Use an electric vacuum and some acetone to clean up.

Paint your surface for extra protection

Start by applying a primer to the area and then apply two coats of acrylic paint to protect the underlying wood and epoxy. To the last layer you can add polyurethane sealer. Every year you should review your repairs to see if anything needs redoing.

Epoxy resin for wood is a great way to make repairs to your wooden item. Just follow the instructions and make sure you know all the precautions before you start. Prepare and read through the process so that you don’t have any trouble when applying.

Wrap up

We hope that by the end of our article you have gained a new understanding of what is possible with epoxy resin for wood. This should allow you to start your wood and resin projects. Here we wish all your projects to be perfect every time.

questions and answers

Is epoxy waterproof for wood?

Wood epoxy is perfect for wood items that are exposed to certain stresses and moisture. The wood epoxy waterproofs the wood it covers.

Is wood epoxy as strong as wood itself?

When it comes to a wooden item, the goal is to create a stronger bond that the epoxy will reach. In contrast to other materials such as metal, where the effect hardly changes. In addition, you can use a variety of adhesives that will provide adequate waterproofing properties to the wood joints.

Should You Seal Wood Before Adding Your Wood Epoxy?

Yes, this is an important step. Simply coat the wood with a thin coat of wood epoxy and allow to cure. This will provide an adequate seal before adding more epoxy for wood.

Article overview

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If you have a live edge slab that you want to finish, first peel off all of the bark in 6- to 8-inch sections with a rounded chisel. Once the bark is gone, take a rotary tool with a flap wheel and sand the edges smooth. Next, sand the surface to desired smoothness and vacuum up dust, otherwise you could end up with a messy finish. Then use a sponge brush to apply a layer of polyurethane coating. After the coat is dry, sand it down with 500 grit sandpaper and repeat the process 2 more times. Then wipe down the surface with mineral spirits and wet sand with 2000 grit sandpaper. After drying the panel, apply a coat of shellac and allow to dry again before sanding with 400 grit sandpaper. To finish the record, repeat this process until you have 3 coats of shellac, then spray on with varnish. Read on for more tips such as: B. how to fill voids on the surface of your wood.

In this tutorial I will show you step by step how to make a stunning and exclusive wooden epoxy resin table yourself. With the right technique, this is not as difficult as it may seem at first. I will show you exactly and in detail how it works and give you valuable professional tips. Of course, a successful table is only possible with the right material and equipment. That’s why you’ll also find a list of what you need to make an Epoxy River Table.

What is an Epoxy River Table?

An Epoxy River Table is a hybrid piece of furniture made of wooden planks and epoxy resin in between. Often the blanks have natural edges, the resin epoxy contained between them looks like a flowing river. Resin River Tables have been very popular since 2019. Like so many others, the idea and the trend of the so-called Epoxy River Tables come from the USA. In recent years, a veritable epoxy resin table fever has broken out worldwide, including in Brazil, of course. Because these tables are very modern but at the same time extremely noble and high quality. They are also real eye-catchers and exude an exotic beauty.

The Epoxy River Tables in particular create a very exciting contrast through the combination of wood and mostly colored resin and are therefore extremely appealing to most people. The special thing about these pieces of furniture made of wood and resin, however, is that they cannot be assigned to any style and appeal to very different furnishing styles. Both lovers of wooden furniture and people who prefer the modern style will be equally appealed to by this type of Epoxy River Table.

There are no limits to creativity when manufacturing an epoxy table: from the most exotic variants with lively colors and structures and extravagant design to more conservative, clean designs with neutral or more transparent colors, almost anything is possible.

How did I learn to make epoxy tables?

I started experimenting with epoxy resin in late 2017. I saw epoxy river tables on the internet and also wanted to learn this technique to make these spectacular objects and furniture by myself. I started looking for these materials and especially suitable resin. However, I had to realize that it was extremely difficult to get suitable epoxy resin of good quality in Brazil. A few months, frustrations and realizations later, I finally discovered a manufacturer that has a good resin for this purpose. It was a very educational time and over the months and years I developed my own technique that allowed me to create large, very exclusive pieces of furniture. Large pieces should be made layer by layer due to the stability required and the long drying times.

The art is that these individual layers are not visible and the resin connects optimally with each other. I have succeeded in creating a process with which you can build high-quality tables yourself. Today my small company in Brazil is recognized as a quality manufacturer. In this blog post I want to share with you how I make these exclusive tables with epoxy resin. Because even you as a beginner can build such a table top with a little practice, some manual skills and the right equipment. And all this without large and expensive machines. You can get most of the equipment and materials in any well-stocked hardware store or, of course, on the Internet.

In the step-by-step guide below, I’ll show you step-by-step how to build your own Exopy River Table.

Supplies you need to craft tables from resin wood

Although epoxy is an extremely versatile material that is also durable once cured, it is a very delicate material during the curing process. Therefore, it is very important to choose a resin of the highest quality so that you can ensure a perfect finish once the resin has cured. You will need both a casting resin to create the river table and a laminating resin to finally coat your table top. We have selected two of the leading products in each category to help you choose the best epoxy for your river table.

Best epoxy resin for casting the epoxy table top

You will need a deep flowing, low viscosity epoxy to cast the table top. The resin must be liquid enough so that it can be easily poured into the mold. The use of casting resin ensures that all small gaps and hard-to-reach places are covered. The following resins are sold as clear liquid components, so you will need to add your own color pigment to create the river table effect.

Best Value for Money: INCREDIBLE SOLUTIONS Castable Plastic Clear Casting Resin

This brand of deep cast epoxy can be used by beginners and professionals alike. You will find detailed instructions included with your resin kit to guide you through the process. This resin cures crystal clear and when you add color you get a translucent colored finish resembling glass. Where most other resins must be applied in thin coats, this epoxy can be cast in one coat up to 2 inches thick. You can expect a slow cure time due to a low exotherm rate, meaning the resin doesn’t generate as much heat during curing.

INCREDIBLE SOLUTIONS Deep Pour Clear Casting Resin Custom formula causes minimal bubbles and avoids craters

Epoxy is safe and low odor when used and cured correctly

Mixes well with mica pigment powders and cures crystal clear

This resin shrinks less, generates very little odor and emits zero volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Most epoxies will develop a yellow tint over time, although this is less obvious on colored pieces. This product is built with special UV inhibitors that help prevent your resin from yellowing. To add color, mica pigment powders mix particularly well with this resin. You should never mix or pour your epoxy with an oil based product.

Advantages Long working hours

Minimal shrinkage

Comes with UV inhibitors

low odor

No VOCs Disadvantages Cannot be applied over oil paints or stains

Slow curing time

Best product overall: STONE COAT Super Cast Resin Kit

The Stone Coat brand produces a high quality epoxy product that can be described as “liquid glass”. Stone Coat have been manufacturing epoxy resin for over half a century which means you can be assured of a quality product when you choose this brand. This deep cast epoxy can be poured to a depth of 2 inches, making it ideal for creating a river table that requires deep pouring. The resin cures hard and durable, is heat resistant and unlikely to shrink. The thinner viscosity of this resin also means you will encounter fewer bubbles.

STONE COAT COUNTERTOPS Super Cast Designed to cast over 3/4 inch per cast

Super clear results, compatible with pigments and dyes

Ideal for epoxy tables and deep resin molds. View on Amazon

This epoxy is formulated with best-in-class UV resistance, making it far less likely to fade or yellow over time. You will likely add color to this resin when creating a river table, which you can do with ease. This resin can be mixed with color pigments such as mica powders, liquid dyes and alcohol inks. However, you should not use paints with this resin, especially acrylic and oil based paints.

Advantages Food safe

Less blisters

Crystal clear

Long working time Disadvantages Long curing time

Expensive

Best epoxy for sealing the table top

Once your epoxy flow table is poured and cured, it is in your best interest to apply a final clear coating to your table top as a protective layer. This seals the epoxy and increases its durability. We recommend choosing a UV resistant top coat to prevent this clear coat from yellowing over time.

Best Product Overall: INCREDIBLE SOLUTIONS Epoxy Resin for Tabletops

This tabletop epoxy is a premium product that cures to a glossy, crystal clear finish and is resistant to the elements and other types of damage. The application process is easy when using this resin as it has a simple 1:1 mix ratio and will automatically level after pouring. Your finish is resistant to impact, stains, water and other forms of damage once fully cured. This product has a faster curing time than most as your resin will be fully cured after a period of 48 hours.

INCREDIBLE SOLUTIONS Epoxy Tabletops Get a crystal clear, scratch-resistant finish

Very good air release and high UV resistance

Suitable for all types of coatings (tables, resin paints, etc.) View on Amazon

To add color you can use a mica powder for best results. This resin is one of the safer choices when it comes to toxic fumes. Because the resin is almost odorless and produces absolutely no VOCs. However, we still recommend wearing the appropriate protective gear when working with this resin. The thicker consistency of this resin means it’s a bit more difficult to mix and apply.

PROS Shiny, crystal clear finish

self-leveling

Resistant to UV light

food safe

Minimal odor and no VOCs

to heal quickly

Easy to use CONS Cannot be used with oil based products

Short shelf life

Requires heat to remove bubbles

Difficult to mix and apply

Best Value for Money: STONE COAT COUNTERTOPS Epoxy Kit

This brand specializes in countertop epoxy that mimics the effect of stone. You can use this resin to renovate your countertops or to provide a protective coating. It is extremely durable and even withstands heat. After curing, this product is absolutely food safe. It is easy to make this resin due to its basic 1:1 mix ratio. Make sure you mix the resin components and desired color thoroughly together, after which you have around 45 minutes to apply the resin.

When using this resin you can expect a crystal clear coating which will enhance the underlying finish. While your resin surface may feel dry to the touch in as little as 24 hours, you cannot use the surface for at least three days. During the first month you should only do light surface work, which you can achieve by not placing heavy objects on the surface and not moving panels. After a week the resin will be extremely hard. It takes 30 days for the resin to be fully heat and UV resistant, after which it is fully cured.

PROS Simple mix ratio

No VOCs

Easy to clean

Continuous

Transparent version

Heat and UV resistant DISADVANTAGES Long curing time

Prone to blisters

Step-by-step epoxy table DIY

Before you start creating your resin wood table, you need to set up a suitable work environment. A dry, dust-free workshop environment or garage that is heated in winter is strongly recommended for this work. It’s also important to work in a well-ventilated area.

It is important to maintain a stable workshop temperature, ideally 20ºC or more, during construction and during the curing time of the resin. Do not work in cold, humid or hot conditions as this will affect the performance, drying and appearance of the resin – this could ruin your epoxy wood table.

Tip: Do not store the epoxy on the floor as the floor is always colder than the room. Even if you have the perfect temperature of around 20 C degrees, the soil will not be more than 15 C to 17 C degrees. If the resin is too cold, tiny bubbles form, which you can hardly get out of the resin even with a heat gun.

Step 1: Preparing Your Wood

If you also want to prepare the wood for your tabletop yourself, you will need a hand-held circular saw and a planing machine. Before you can get started, the wood needs to be cut to the right length and angle and split down the middle. It also needs to be planed to an even thickness. If you do not dare or if the purchase of such larger machines is too expensive and time-consuming.

If your wooden panel simply has very large dimensions, you can have the wood of your choice sawn and planed to the desired size and thickness by a carpenter or, alternatively, buy it ready-made from a hardware store. When buying your wooden board, you can also opt for a board that has already been planed, then this step is not necessary and you only have to saw the wood. If you are a DIY beginner or have little experience with wood as a material, I recommend that you have these work steps carried out by a carpenter.

For a river table you need a wooden board that is as natural as possible or a board made from a tree trunk that is at least 4 cm thick.

The whole thing looks particularly beautiful if the piece of wood has a so-called “natural edge” with bark. You can get such “raw” wooden boards either from a wood dealer, on the Internet or in a good carpenter’s shop. Alternatively, you can also use two attractive wooden boards from the hardware store, which you can use a jigsaw to shape into a slightly curved shape on one side. For a really good river table, I recommend the first version. Because if you want to build such a noble wooden table yourself, it is always worthwhile to invest a lot of work in organizing a really beautiful, high-quality piece of wood.

Dry wood carefully: The most important thing is that the wood you intend to use is sufficiently seasoned or properly dried (ideally less than 12%).

The most important thing is that the wood you intend to use is sufficiently seasoned or properly dried (ideally less than 12%). Sawn: The wooden board is cut in half lengthwise with a circular saw. If you don’t have a circular saw, let the carpenter do it. Then both pieces of wood must be exactly the same length and the side edges must be cut at right angles to the straight long sides. This is also done with a circular saw. If you don’t have this equipment, have the carpenter do it for you.

The wooden board is cut in half lengthwise with a circular saw. If you don’t have a circular saw, let the carpenter do it. Then both pieces of wood must be exactly the same length and the side edges must be cut at right angles to the straight long sides. This is also done with a circular saw. If you don’t have this equipment, have the carpenter do it for you. Plane the wood: With an electric planer, make sure that the two pieces of wood have an even thickness and the flatness that is absolutely necessary. If you don’t have a planer, ask your wood supplier or carpenter to plan the wood.

Although the bark always looks very nice on the wood, it must always be thoroughly removed. You should then sand the edges thoroughly by hand. This will later bond the epoxy resin better to the wood. Use a chisel or similar to carefully remove the bark.

. You should then sand the edges thoroughly by hand. This will later bond the epoxy resin better to the wood. Use a chisel or similar to carefully remove the bark. Then you have to sand all the wood. Start with 80 to 220 grains, dusting after each grain. As previously mentioned, you can hand sand the sides with sandpaper. An eccentric sander is well suited for the surfaces.

. Start with 80 to 220 grains, dusting after each grain. As previously mentioned, you can hand sand the sides with sandpaper. An works well for the surfaces. You should then remove the sanding dust very thoroughly from the wood. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner and a microfiber cloth to wipe off any dust residue.

Step 2: Fill cracks and seal the wood

All cracks, porous and uneven areas in the wood should be filled with epoxy resin. Use crystal clear resin without pigment. If the bumps are on the edges, you can seal the edges with a sturdy adhesive tape before sealing so that the resin does not run off the edges. When the filled cracks and such are fully cured you should seal all of the wood with resin.

You also use a crystal-clear resin for this, with which you generously coat the entire wood, including the surfaces, with a brush. The seal prevents later outgassing of the wood. Remember to let it dry thoroughly after sealing (depending on the resin at 18ºC to 24ºC for at least 5 hours). As soon as the whole thing has hardened completely, the edges – where the wood later comes into contact with the casting resin (also called “river”) – should be roughened up with sandpaper.

The resin then bonds better to the edges.

Step 3: Create your mold for the resin table top

In order to be able to cast the epoxy resin, a mold is assembled from MDF boards in the length of your wood and in the size of the desired table top. It’s not difficult to prepare, but some care and measuring is required. For the shape use 15mm MDF boards on the bottom and sides. The side parts should be approx. 10 mm higher than the actual table top. The side parts are screwed to the underside or alternatively glued with hot glue. Then it is best to use clear sanitary silicone to seal the edges. You should work very carefully here and don’t forget anything, the mold must be 100% tight.

A very important step is now the introduction of a release agent in the finished form. You can either glue the mold completely with adhesive tape (Ducktape) or use liquid release wax. Alternatively, you can also spray the mold with silicone spray or Teflon spray. With silicone spray, it is recommended to apply up to three layers. The use of a release agent is very important for later removal of the table top, otherwise the resin would stick to the MDF and the moldings would be very difficult to separate from the resin table. It is also important that the ground or work surface on which the mold is placed is perfectly balanced. Otherwise the resin would become crooked and leak later. Here are some items you may need for this step if you don’t already have them:

BRIGHT CREATIONS 1/4″ MDF Panels MDF is made from wood fibers and is strong and easy to use and cut

These MDF boards are very well cut, without sharp edges, ready to use and glueable

Each board measures 11″ x 14″. View on Amazon

Step 4: Fixing the wood in the mold

After the mold is ready, you can insert the wood. Slide the wood exactly into the desired position in the finished table and fix it well with several parallel clamps. For smaller tables, you can weigh down the wood with bricks, for example. However, be aware that any equipment or parts used to attach the wood may come in contact with the resin. It is highly recommended that a hygienic silicone barrier be applied to the wood along the river bank.

However, you should not pull the barrier too close to the edge – keep a distance of 10 to 20 cm so that the resin is poured cleanly. With such a barrier, you prevent the resin from spreading all over the table. You’ll need caulk for this step, and if you don’t already have it in your toolbox, here are our top suggestions:

NEWBORN Caulking Gun, Non-Drip Caulking Gun with steel semi-tubular frame for 1/10 gallon cartridges

10:1 thrust ratio for use with low viscosity materials

The rod retracts after each trigger pull to prevent dripping

Calculate epoxy resin amount – calculator

In order to calculate the required amount of epoxy resin that you need for your resin epoxy table, acrylgiessen.com has programmed a special resin flow table calculator that calculates the total amount as well as the mixing ratio of resin and hardener.

payment options

Step 5: Mix epoxy resin

When working with the resin, first wear nitrile gloves, safety glasses and a respirator. Use a large enough bucket and paddle stirrer to mix the resin. It is best to use a bucket that is large enough for the entire amount of resin or the first layer of resin. Depending on the resin manufacturer, it may be necessary to pour the resin in layers. Because resin has the property of becoming extremely hot and boiling from a certain thickness.

When the resin boils, it is immediately unusable or becomes cloudy. Of course, how many layers are required depends not least on the thickness of your table top. In any case, you should pay attention to the maximum layer thickness (see manufacturer information). But there is also a special epoxy resin that can be cast in one step. Make sure you stick to the manufacturer’s recommended mixing ratio and mix the resin components very well. It is best to use a drill with an agitator. This is the only way to ensure optimal mixing of the components. When you’re done mixing, you can use a heat gun or butane torch to blow out the air bubbles in the resin. But please only burn off as much as necessary or wave over it briefly with the heat gun, otherwise the resin could be damaged.

Step 6: Color the resin and pour a water effect

A big advantage here is the use of a special epoxy resin that you can fill in in one pour and not in several layers. The whole thing is of course also possible with several layers. How to properly layer resin is explained in the Crystal Clear Resin River Table section below. Once the two resin components are mixed using a paddle mixer, you can optionally add pigments of your choice. For this typical water look, fill your mixed epoxy resin in two different containers, e.g. in a ratio of 1:1.5. Color the smaller portion of your mixed epoxy with a matte blue pigment and the larger portion with a turquoise metallic pigment.

Of course you can also use other colors according to your taste. Now pour both containers into your mold from one side at the same time or alternately. For a successful water effect, make light circular movements with the container when pouring, especially with metallic pigment. Once you’ve poured everything completely into the mold, you can use a wooden stick or something similar to change or reinforce the pattern in the resin as you wish. Then let everything harden well according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you don’t already have ink or pigment to color your resin, then below are a few of our top suggestions:

Step 7: Adding Embellishments to Your Resin Table Top

Quickly but carefully pour the first layer of crystal clear resin into the epoxy and then apply the epoxy briefly with a heat gun. Never heat the resin in one spot for more than 3 seconds as this may cause the resin to steam or burn and the end result may be a yellowish epoxy. The second casting takes place in the so-called “B Stage”. At this point, the first layer is not fully cured and is still sticking. When you touch it lightly with the glove, the resin should no longer be liquid and should feel like you’re touching the inside of an adhesive tape.

He is now ready for the second cast. DO NOT wait any longer, otherwise the second layer may not bond optimally to the first. If you missed this point, wait for the resin to fully cure, then lightly sand with 220 grit, clean the surface, and then pour the second coat. If you now want to embed objects such as pebbles, crystals or other things, you should also do this in the B-Stage. Please don’t do it beforehand or the stones will sink to the ground. Now pour the second layer of resin just above the edge. Allow the resin to fully cure – be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

Step 8: Demolding and Sanding Your Epoxy Tabletop

Unscrew all the screws on the mold and remove the parallel clamps. Use a plastic mallet and chisel to separate the mold from the cast table top. Carry out this step carefully so as not to damage your tabletop, pay particular attention to the edge panels.

After you’ve demolded the cured resin tabletop, it’s time to sand the tabletop. The easiest way to do this is with an eccentric sander. Of course, this can also be done by hand, it is important that no resin can be seen on the wood. Start with 80 grit to 400 grit. Here are our top suggestions for sanding your resin wood table:

MAKITA 5-inch random orbital sander kit Lightweight two-handed machine including additional handle

With electronic speed selection and high removal rate

Comes with a brake ring for a smooth start and instant stop when shut off View on Amazon

5 inch 8-hole grinding discs – grit 1000 to 3000 set Ø 5 inch sandpaper made of aluminum oxide granules

Hard-wearing, anti-static and allows for long-lasting and efficient sanding

Find 6 different grits for a total of 60 sanding discs from 1000 to 3000 grit View on Amazon

Optionally, you can smooth the edge panels of your tabletop perfectly with a router before sanding or, if necessary, mill or plane them cleanly again with a hand-held circular saw. We have created an epoxy sanding tutorial that will teach you how to get a smooth surface for polishing.

Step 9: Finishing Your River Epoxy Table

Before you can apply a finish to your resin tabletop, you should polish the epoxy. This will help get rid of the small scratches you may have in your epoxy due to the sanding process. For larger surfaces such as table tops we recommend using a polishing machine for the best result. For smaller projects, you can also use a towel and buff to buff it by hand. Here are our top suggestions for this job!

CHANTPOWER Buffer Polisher Has six variable speeds that can be easily adjusted with one knob

The ergonomic design allows easy control with 2 handles

Comes with a buffer and three foam pads perfect for buffing. View on Amazon

The simplest way of finishing is to oil the tabletop to protect the wood. By oiling you give the surface a smooth look with less shine but a natural feel. I recommend Odie’s oil. It seals the wood and gives it a natural feel. In addition, with this oil only one application is necessary and you do not have to re-oil. Here is the best oil for the job:

SUNNYSIDE Boiled Linseed Oil High-quality organic oil for your tabletop and wooden surfaces

Enhances natural wood tones and wood grain patterns

Fast drying, typically within 12-18 hours depending on conditions. View on Amazon

It is best to apply the oil evenly to the entire table top with a soft cloth. However, before you oil the table top, you should polish it – especially the Resin River – with a polishing machine and polishing paste. This is to remove sanding marks and achieve a silky finish.

Step 10: Coat Your Resin Table Top

A DIY variant for a glossy surface of your tabletop is to coat it with crystal-clear resin. Start with the underside of the tabletop. Attach heavy-duty tape that extends 0.4 to 0.8 inches on all four sides. This now acts as a barrier to prevent the resin from dripping unevenly down the pages. Pour the resin over the surface and spread it evenly over the entire surface with a plastic spatula. To avoid bubbles, briefly flame the resin with a heat gun. Allow the resin to fully cure. I recommend pouring a second layer of resin, the first is just a base.

In order for the layers to optimally bond with each other, you should sand the first layer beforehand. When everything is well cured, remove the tape. Kleben Sie nun die lackierte Unterseite mindestens 2 cm breit am Rand entlang. Drehen Sie die Tischplatte um und unterlegen Sie sie mit etwas Passendem, z. Holzreste. Achten Sie darauf, dass die Tischplatte zu 100 % im Gleichgewicht ist und die bereits lackierte Unterseite nicht beschädigt wird. Zusätzlich mit einer Vlies- oder ähnlichen Unterlage ist daher zu empfehlen. Gießen Sie nun das Harz über die Tischplatte inklusive der Tischkanten und verteilen Sie es gleichmäßig mit dem Spachtel. Alles gut aushärten lassen und dann das Klebeband entfernen. Abschließend eventuelle scharfe Kanten auf der Unterseite mit einem feinen Schleifpapier abschleifen.

Eine 100% perfekte Hochglanzlackierung ist nur mit einer Polyurethanbeschichtung möglich. Für diese Art der Beschichtung sind jedoch eine Lackierkabine, spezielles Equipment sowie die richtige Technik und Know-how erforderlich. Diese Art der Beschichtung kann nur von einem Fachmann durchgeführt werden und ist recht teuer. Aber dann ist dieses Finish absolut perfekt und sehr edel. So verleihen Sie Ihrem Tisch eine beeindruckende, spiegelglatte Oberfläche und zusätzlich ist die Tischplatte dann sehr langlebig und gut gegen äußere Einflüsse wie zum Beispiel Kratzspuren geschützt.

Eine Polyurethan-Beschichtung vom Profi ist nicht gerade günstig – aber meiner Meinung nach lohnt es sich auf jeden Fall, in eine professionelle Lackierung Ihrer Tischplatte mit solch hoher Qualität zu investieren.

Schritt 11: Fügen Sie Ihre Beine hinzu

Um Ihren Harzholztisch fertigzustellen, müssen Sie nur noch die Beine anbringen. Es gibt viele Optionen für Beine, die Sie Form wählen können. Sie können Ihre eigenen aus passendem Holz herstellen oder stilvolle Metallbeine kaufen. Hier ist ein Vorschlag, der sehr gut funktioniert und einfach anzubringen ist:

NISORPA Metalltischbeine Stilvolle Metallbeine für Ihren Harztisch

Nisorpa Trapez-Tischbeine sind aus hochwertigem Stahl gefertigt, um strapazierfähige Beine herzustellen

Starke Tragfähigkeit – das maximale Belastungsgewicht jedes Beins beträgt ca. 1000 lbs. Auf Amazon ansehen

Wenn Sie Ihre Beine haben, können Sie sie einfach einschrauben und einen Schritt zurücktreten, um Ihren schönen DIY-Tisch aus Epoxidharz zu bewundern.

Verschiedene Arten von Tischen zum Selberbauen

Es gibt so viele verschiedene Arten von Tischen, die Sie mit diesem Verfahren erstellen können. Sie können sich sogar verzweigen und diesen Prozess verwenden, um Schneidebretter zu erstellen. Folgende Tischtypen eignen sich besonders gut für die Epoxy River Table Technik:

dining table

Kaffetisch

side table

garden table

sideboard

Hoffentlich hat es Ihnen Spaß gemacht, zu lernen, wie man Tische aus Epoxidharz herstellt, und Sie sind in der Lage, Ihren eigenen DIY-Tisch effektiv herzustellen. Sie möchten weitere Artikel zum Thema Epoxidharz in Kombination mit Holz lesen? Dann könnte dich auch folgender Blogbeitrag interessieren: Epoxidharz für Holz. Wir haben auch eine Webstory erstellt, um die wichtigsten Schritte zusammenzufassen.

frequently asked Questions

Wie erstelle ich einen River Table?

Grundsätzlich braucht man Holzbohlen und Epoxidharz, um einen River Table selber zu bauen. Sie bauen eine Form, in die Sie das Holz legen und den Zwischenraum mit Harz füllen. Nach dem Härteprozess entformen Sie die Tischplatte, schleifen und polieren die Oberfläche und montieren die Tischbeine.

Wie viel kosten River Tables?

Epoxidharz-Flusstische kosten zwischen 1.000 und 10.000 US-Dollar. Der Preis hängt von der Größe des Tisches, der Holzart und vielen anderen Faktoren ab. Maßgeschneiderte Couchtische beginnen bei 1.000 $, während Esstische am Fluss teurer sind und bei 2.500 $ beginnen.

Wie viel Epoxidharz benötige ich für einen Flusstisch?

Die Berechnung der benötigten Menge Resin Epoxy ist gar nicht so einfach. Messen Sie zuerst die Tiefe, Länge und Breite des Raums, den Sie füllen möchten. Dann empfehlen wir Ihnen die Verwendung eines Epoxidharz Rechners, der Ihnen bei der Berechnung hilft.

Kann LED-Beleuchtung in die Tischplatte eingegossen werden?

Sie können LED-Streifen einfach in die Tischplatte eingießen. Achten Sie beim Gießen auf die Temperaturentwicklung, damit das Gießharz nicht zu heiß wird und die LED-Beleuchtung schmilzt. Sie sollten die Stecker gut fixieren, damit Sie sie später anschließen können. Use high-quality LED lights, because you cannot change them after casting.

Can you Use a Tree Disc to Build a Resin Table?

You can also use cross-cut tree slices as a resin table. The wood must be dried very well here as well. Glue the top and bottom of the disc well and fill the cracks 1-2 times. Then you can seal the tree disc with epoxy resin and mount the legs.

What Is the Best Epoxy Resin for River Tables? We highly recommend INCREDIBLE SOLUTIONS Deep Pour Clear Casting Resin – a product that’s been on the market for years and is perfectly suited to pour River tables. Deep Pour Clear Casting Resin is crystal clear, easy to use and won’t yellow over time. It also has a good price-performance ratio.

Below are some charts we have created if you would like to get an approximate price associated with the chart you have in mind.

Cost by table type and size

The cost depends on the type of table ordered and the size. Below are common sizes with price ranges.

10 foot table – $2000 to $6000.

8 foot table – $1800 to $5000

6 foot table – $1600 to $4000

4 foot table $1250-$2000

The biggest cost variant when buying live edge tables is whether or not the table uses epoxy, and if so, how much.

Casting epoxy is a labor intensive and expensive process. Epoxy alone costs about $80 a gallon, and that’s before the job of pouring it. Tables with a lot of epoxy will always cost more than those without.

Ready to get an offer? Find out what we need in the following video:

Factors affecting the price of your Live Edge table

Finish – As mentioned above, epoxy finishes and flow tables are the most expensive due to the cost of epoxy and the labor involved in casting.

Polyurethane is a cheaper alternative to epoxy if you’re just looking for a nice finish for the wood panel. It has a similar sheen over the wood and will last you for years to come.

The cheapest finish we offer is a hard wax LED oil. Equipment for this finish costs thousands of dollars, so many companies don’t offer it as a finish. However, after the upfront investment in equipment, the finishing is relatively inexpensive and will give your table a beautiful shine and really show off the beauty of the natural grain. This is one of our most popular finishes as it gives you a more natural look at a cost effective price.

Plate Types – Some plates cost more than others. This is something to consider when purchasing live edge panels. More expensive types include walnut, maple, cherry, and white oak. Ash, sycamore, hickory, red oak, and pine oak tend to be cheaper.

For live edge panels, you typically pay per foot of board based on rough cut panel size. We then charge a flat rate of $80 per hour for smoothing and broadband sanding. This is included in the cost of the closing table. Flattening a slab takes 1-2.5 hours depending on the slab size. Sanding the slab will then take about 1 hour as long as it is 54″ wide or less. 54″ is the maximum size we can fit through our wide belt sander. Anything larger must be sanded by hand.

Base Options – Most of our panels are sold with a metal base. There are a variety of options ranging from $400 to $1250. We offer cast iron, cast aluminum and steel table base options.

Larger three-tier sockets, like the right-hand table in the image above, cost more, and two-tier sockets, like the table on the left, cost less.

All of our bases are handcrafted by local artisans in the Lancaster area. You will only be billed for the cost of the base. These pedestals are a hair more expensive than what you can find on Amazon or other sites, but because Live Edge platters are so heavy, a sturdy pedestal is an essential investment for your table.

Taxes and Delivery Fees – Taxes vary depending on the state you are in. In Pennsylvania, we collect a 6% sales tax on all of our Live Edge tables and Epoxy River tables.

Delivery and shipping costs also vary. We can offer local deliveries for a relatively small fee per hour. Since this is hourly, the farther away the table needs to go, the price of delivery increases. The fee includes the installation of the table at your home.

Customers who are far from our location may incur additional charges such as trailer rental charges, hotel stays and more on delivery charges. This will be added to the final price of the piece. If you are purchasing a table that requires shipping, we will coordinate delivery. This includes assembly of the table unless otherwise noted. For large tables, curbside is usually the only option as our delivery team is usually just two people.

Get the cheapest Live Edge table possible

“Cheap” and “Live Edge” are words that don’t really belong in the same sentence. Even the cheapest Live Edge dining table is $1250-$1500. “Cheap” is also associated with inferior products that we don’t sell.

However, if you are looking for the best value for money, we recommend the following:

Pin Oak as a wood species. This board varies from $3 to $10 per board foot (this varies by width), making it our cheapest board.

No epoxy. If you’re looking for a cheap table, you don’t want to use epoxy as $80 a gallon quickly adds up.

Hard wax LED oil finish. This is a beautiful finish that brings out the natural grain of the wood. It’s also relatively easy to put on.

Two tier base. The base is an area we don’t recommend going cheap on. A nice table with a cheap base will be wobbly and may even break under the weight of the top.

A small table. The smaller the table, the cheaper it gets. Smaller tables are quicker to smooth, sand and finish. This leads to lower labor costs.

No loops or other finishes.

Questions about the cost of a custom table?

If you have any questions about the cost of a live edge table, just contact us online. We offer free quotes on custom live edge tables. If you see a sold table on our site that you like, we can also make you a similar piece from a different top of the same type!

Are you ready to get started at your river table? Not so fast. Let’s go through some ground rules so you don’t have to go through three or four very expensive slabs of wood before you finally get it right.

First, a river table is made by cutting a live edge slab in half, flipping the wood over so the outside corners are now on the inside, and separating the slabs enough to form a valley into which you Pour epoxy resin. The panels are placed in a form-fitting wooden mold and the corners sealed to prevent the liquid epoxy from flowing out of the box onto your floor. But that’s another blog.

This article covers the best types of wood for the table tops. Cured epoxy is very strong and unlikely to crack – but only if the wood doesn’t warp or crack and put pressure on the epoxy. It is therefore important that you choose the right wood. And this wood is generally hard, dense and stable.

How to choose a wooden top for your River Table

Watch this video as Sheldon Myeroff takes you to a wood panel barn at a local Amish lumber mill where wood for Chagrin Valley Custom Furniture’s epoxy river tables is stored.

When choosing a wood panel, you should make sure that the epoxy paint and the wood color go well together or complement each other. A dark flow with light wood is awesome. A light river with dark wood is even better. You can’t go wrong. Find a wood yard near you that stocks a wide range of wood panels. If you live in an area with few trees, you will need to search online for a lumber yard and have the panels mailed to you. Depending on the type, wood panels can be very expensive.

Our customers can use video technology to select exactly the panel they want when we bring it to our wood store or to the supplier’s wood yard. Customers can choose from thousands of different Live Edge wood panel sizes, grains and styles including Cherry, Walnut, Oak, Maple, Sassafras and Hickory. These woods are ideal for a custom epoxy table, custom river dining table, free edge desk, custom bed or bed frame, custom epoxy and wood furniture, wood and epoxy live edge countertop, handcrafted table top and bar top or kitchen island.

But of course we have our favourites, just like our customers. Our decisions are based on beauty, stability and toughness. Beauty can include factors such as color, variations in hue, sapwood, grain patterns, texture, degree of distress, and so on. Stability means the wood won’t warp, crack or rot over time, so your table will last for generations. And a hard species of wood makes it less porous to epoxy penetrating the grains. I think that eliminates the softwoods like pine and birch and spruce, but if you want to try them, good luck.

Our favorite types of wood for River Tables

So these are the woods that we like to use and that our customers prefer, in order of popularity:

Black Walnut Walnut Maple Cherry Oak Hickory Elm Mahogany Ash Butternut

When no wood is good

Watch air and kiln dried wood for river tables

Let me raise a very important point here. NO WOOD IS GOOD IF THE MOISTURE HAS NOT BEEN REMOVED FIRST!!! This means that the wood should be both air dried and oven dried for up to a year and a half until the moisture content is at or below 8%. Only then should you start working. Otherwise the wood may bend, warp or crack while you are working on it or when it is in your home.

How thick should a river table be?

Watch as wood is cut into slabs of wood to make live edge river tables

If the wood top (especially black walnut) is at least 1.6″ thick, that should be good enough to make a sturdy epoxy table. However, a 2″ thick sheet of wood is best for making epoxy and wood tables, desks and countertops. The wooden panels must be absolutely flat. Flattening and sanding the board several times will shorten the width by about 1/8 inch. So keep this in mind when choosing your plate.

In this video you can see how wooden panels are planed and smoothed to a specified thickness in the sawmill.

You can build an epoxy flow table as thin as 3/4″ for a coffee table, but CVCF designers recommend at least 1-1/2″ for dining tables, with 1-3/4″ being ideal for tables seating 10 to 12 people .

CVCF often uses 2″ thick wood panels to build sturdy farmhouse tables for customers who order locally and online across the US. After sanding, these 2″ thick plates will end up being about 1-3/4″ thick.

CVCF can also use 2 1/4″ thick top, 2 1/2″ thick top and 2 3/4″ thick top to manufacture ultra-sturdy custom conference tables and restaurant tables that withstand frequent movement and significant wear and tear.

Harvest our wood responsibly

Watch this video as Sheldon Myeroff takes you on a forest walk to see how we harvest wood sustainably

CVCF only manufactures custom epoxy furniture from solid wood panels – generally with the bark removed on the living edges. CVCF woodworkers know how to choose the best boards for epoxy river tables. We use live edge wood panels (with natural edges) made from sustainably harvested logs. Sustainable harvesting makes it possible to maintain or increase the tree population over time while avoiding damage to the ecosystem.

Chagrin Valley Custom Furniture sources its Live Edge slabs from rural Ohio’s Amish County, as well as individual specialty wood stove dryers and suppliers across the country. Each slab has been carefully treated to reduce moisture content to around 8% – a level high enough to keep the piece from cracking but low enough to prevent warping when exposed to the elements or moisture.

Once you’ve brought the wood panels back to your workshop

After you’ve selected your panel and returned it to your wood shop, you’ll need to properly prep the wood before pouring the epoxy. Remove the bark before sanding the wood, filling in the imperfections and cracks, and sealing the wood. CVCF craftsmen build molds to attach the wood panels before pouring the epoxy to create a crystal water effect.

After the CVCF resin artists allow the epoxy to dry (which takes days), they resand the wood and apply finishes and top coats before attaching the legs.

Other types of wood used in furniture making

Our list of the top 10 woods we use for river tables obviously left out many species that are suitable for general furniture making. So here is a longer list to consider when making a table, desk or cabinet.

natural wood panel

elm

barn wood

hickory

old wood

live edge

Patterned maple

Brown maple

Hard maple

logs

White or red oak

solid wood

American hardwoods

Redwoodtree

alder

birch

Monterey Cypress

fir

Blackwood Acacia

teak

rosewood

Jaw

Exotic Forests

redwood

Bigleaf maple

monkey puzzle

Hollywood juniper

Monterey pine

Cuban Mahogany

tamarind

acacia

African mahogany

cedar

avocado

grasshopper

Woman Tongue Albizia

Silky Oak

Tropical Almond

mango

About our company

Watch a video about the products and people at CVCF

Locally sourced wood panels are incorporated into the furniture, designed by our customers and handcrafted by the artisans in our workshop in Cleveland, Ohio. These beautiful one-offs are then shipped to homeowners, restaurants, offices, businesses, and hotels across the United States.

Our furnishings include custom epoxy river tables, epoxy river beds and headboards, epoxy desks, epoxy wall art, rustic to modern farmhouse tables, barn doors, benches, countertops, shelving and much more.

From Forest to Furnishings is a video series by CVCF. Each shows you a different stage in the process of making bespoke furniture. We begin the sustainable harvesting business in the rich, diverse forests of Northeast Ohio. We walk you through all the stages that lumber goes through in the sawmill to create the beautiful, smooth live edge panels that go into our river tables. We then track the wood as it is formed into the finished epoxy table and shipped to our customers.

If you are interested in learning more about Chagrin Valley Custom Furniture’s epoxy and wood furniture or would like to order a custom table, desk or other epoxy furniture, call 440-591-5511 or email customerservice@ chagrinvalleycustomfurniture. com. View all handmade products on our website: www. chagrinvalleycustomfurniture. com.

Article overview

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To apply epoxy to wood, you must first sand the wood so it is smooth and flat. Attach painter’s tape to the back edges and sides of the wood to keep the epoxy from dripping onto it. Then lay the wood on something so it’s elevated, like two inverted cups, and prepare your epoxy according to the directions. Pour some epoxy starting in the middle of the wood and use a foam brush to spread it over the entire surface. Go over the surface with a hair dryer to remove bubbles and then leave the epoxy on for 4 hours. Repeat the process with a second layer. Finally, allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before removing the tape. To learn how to mix epoxy, scroll down!

Epoxy resin offers a variety of possibilities that cannot be compared with any other material. In connection with wood, there are many design possibilities: epoxy resin-coated wood as a protective layer, wood in moulds, epoxy resin river tables and much more is possible. We will show you what is possible with the combination of epoxy resin and wood and give you specific instructions, ideas and tips.

Different properties of resin products

Epoxy resin, or resin, is a two-component material that hardens within a few hours after the components are mixed, and can then be cut, sanded, and polished. In contrast to polyester and polyurethane resins, epoxy resin shrinks significantly less when curing. All other products could detach from the wood within a few hours or days and are therefore not fit for purpose. There are products for different uses and it is important to choose the right product. You can also check out our in-depth article where we list the best epoxy for all your projects.

consistency

high-viscosity resin for paint layers

for coating layers low-viscosity resin for casting molds or for resin Art.-No

UV protection / resistance to yellowing

Resin reacts differently to UV rays. The resin is usually in a clear form and will yellow with exposure to sunlight and will no longer be fully translucent. However, there is a highly UV stable exterior and furniture epoxy that is fairly resistant to yellowing. In some cases, UV-protective additives can be added to reduce yellowing as much as possible.

surface hardness

After the resin has cured, there can be a big difference in surface hardness. Some products are rather soft, other products are scratch and temperature resistant. For everyday objects such as cutting boards, tabletops and other items that are exposed to high mechanical stress, it is worth buying a higher quality resin.

Tip: Make sure to keep to the specified mixing ratio so that the resin hardens well.

The best wood epoxy recommendations

You can’t go wrong with the following professional products and you’re guaranteed to get good results. They are characterized by low shrinkage, good flow quality and good compatibility. In our opinion, these are the best epoxies for wood:

Laminating resin for clear coats / sealers and hard surfaces

LET’S RESIN Crystal Clear Tabletop Epoxy Super clear tabletop epoxy for wood

Formulated for River Tables, Bar Tops and Hard Surface Countertops

Highest UV resistance, low VOC’s and solvent-free View on Amazon

Casting resin for filling cracks and deep castings

INCREDIBLE SOLUTIONS Castable Plastic Clear Casting Resin 2:1 mix ratio by volume (100A to 44B by weight)

Thick pouring up to 2 inches per application, low viscosity and long pot life

Super clear results, compatible with pigments and dyes. View on Amazon

STONE COAT COUNTERTOPS Super Cast Designed to cast over 3/4 inch per cast

Super clear results, compatible with pigments and dyes

Ideal for epoxy tables and deep resin molds. View on Amazon

Wood and Epoxy: The Accessories You Need

For the application of epoxy resin on wood you need the following things:

Step 1: Wood Preparation

The wood should be prepared before coating with epoxy or embedding epoxy:

ground

degreased

Not pretreated with oil

No hair/fibers or loose pieces of bark

Small pieces can be sanded by hand. For larger surfaces such as a wooden table, we recommend using an eccentric sander to avoid sanding marks.

Tip: Before pouring, use a spirit level to check whether the wood surface is absolutely flat. Due to the flow properties, the epoxy resin otherwise only flows to the lowest part and does not spread as desired.

Step 2: Mixing the Resin

The two components (resin and hardener) must be mixed together in a container. The entire mixture must be mixed well over several minutes. This is the only way to ensure that the curing process runs as planned. In the end, it should have an even flowability without streaks. Only then can the color be added.

Wear nitrile gloves to avoid direct skin contact with the liquid.

The mixing ratio can be found on the packaging. There are three different systems on the market today: a 1:1 ratio, a 2:1 ratio and a 4:1 ratio. Epoxy resin is usually sold with the resin and hardener pre-packaged in the exact quantities needed.

Plastic or wooden spatulas are best for mixing. Be sure to stir thoroughly to minimize air bubbles.

You can now pour, fill or apply the resin mixture.

Application 1: Seal wood

Epoxy resin is suitable for both sealing and impregnating wood. Examples of this application are the sealing of a table top, wooden boards in the kitchen or furniture. It can also be used to seal kitchen worktops, wooden floors or other applications. As you can see, the uses are endless.

How to use epoxy on wood

After the wood has been prepared according to step 1 and the resin mixture has been mixed, you can start. The biggest challenge lies in the flowability of the material: as long as the resin isn’t cured, it will flow pretty quickly wherever it can.

If you want to make an epoxy resin table, you will need to tape the edges to keep the resin from overflowing and dripping onto the floor.

Pour the epoxy onto the wood surface and spread it over the entire surface with a spatula or squeegee. If you have correctly calculated the required amount, a completely covered area is created, which automatically levels itself due to the flow property.

. If you have correctly calculated the required amount, a completely covered area is created, which automatically levels itself due to the flow property. Remove air bubbles with a heat gun or torch

As soon as you notice that the viscosity is thickening, you should stop working, otherwise you will no longer achieve a homogeneous surface.

Before you try your hand at large objects and areas, it is advisable to practice with a test piece first. This gives you a feeling for the process and how to handle the product. The timing should not be neglected either, because you only have a maximum of half an hour to seal the entire area.

Application 2: Epoxy Wood Filler – Wood Filling and Repairing

Old weathered pieces of wood, boards eaten by woodworms or gnarled pieces of wood with knotholes are usually of no interest to the carpenter. For artistic use, however, this wood is perfect for filling with resin.

How to fill cracks in wood with epoxy

If you have a board with holes or cracks that you want to fill, first check that they are not continuous and the resin cannot drain through the bottom. You can seal these types of holes with tape or use silicone caulk which can be easily removed later.

Now you can fill the voids with the resin mixes. It is worth coloring the resin here so that there is a contrast between the color of the resin and the color of the wood in the filled areas. Dyes or colors that glow in the dark or under blacklight are also exciting possibilities.

After the resin has cured you will need to sand the epoxy surface.

Application 3: Casting wood in resin (Resin Casting)

Beautiful pieces of wood can be completely cast in resin. Pieces of wood with a lively grain or fine grain are ideal. For example, you can make epoxy jewelry, use the piece of wood for turning, or make a decorative piece.

Instructions for casting wood in resin:

There are two options for this application:

You can use a silicone mold. There are special molds for epoxy resin in all shapes and sizes. You put the piece of wood in the desired silicone mold and then pour in the epoxy resin. Depending on the size of the mold, you may need to pour multiple layers to keep the resin from getting too hot. Once cured, gently separate the mold and casting and you can use it over and over again.

LET’S RESIN Resin Jewelry Molds High Quality Silicone Jewelry Molds Starter Set

Shapes for bracelets, necklace and earring pendants and rings

Suitable for casting and UV resins, but not for coating resin. View on Amazon

Make a mold yourself. For this process, use resinated plates that you seal with silicone and then spray with silicone oil. If you don’t use coated plates, the resin will stick to the plates and you won’t be able to detach the mold.

Coloring resin to create a contrast with wood

Resin can be used if it is transparent, but it can also be easily colored. There are countless possibilities, such as transparent colors, metallic effects or opaque liquid colors. Regular acrylic paint will not work as it contains water. The following colors can be mixed with all epoxy resins:

liquid paint

The LET’S RESIN Opaque Liquid Dye Set contains 18 opaque liquid dyes for epoxy resin

Non-toxic and odorless in 0.35 ounce clear bottles

Concentrated and easy to use to achieve solid colors in resin. View on Amazon

RESINTINT Liquid Pigment, Complete Set Bundle This is the ResinTint complete set with all base colors

Also included: Metallic & Neon set contains 8 shimmering colors

Check out Amazon’s best quality epoxy dyes

The LET’S RESIN Translucent Liquid Dye Set contains 16 vibrant and translucent liquid pigments

Odorless, vegan-safe and easy to use

Concentrated and mixes easily to create translucent colored resin. View on Amazon

JACQUARD Metallic Airbrush Exciter Pack, 8 colors Jacquard’s airbrush colors have proven to be ideal for mixing with resin

They are highly pigmented, very brilliant and lightfast

With this set you can see shimmering accents in your pourings on Amazon

Color pigments and powder

HEMWAY pigment powder in 14 colors Hemway has one of the largest ranges of pigment powder colorants

You can just slowly mix this into the resin until the desired ratio is reached

Colour-fast and light-fast, so that your works continue to shine brilliantly even after a long time View on Amazon

Grind after curing

To be on the safe side, we recommend waiting a week before sanding and polishing the resin surface. Seemingly cured resin may be soft under the surface and will not leave a nice finish.

Depending on the object size or surface, you can use fine-grain sandpaper for small objects. This sandpaper has proven itself for this and can be used for dry or wet sanding. It should always be sanded from coarse to fine so that no sanding marks are visible.

For larger surfaces such as river tables, floors, countertops, etc., you should use a random orbital sander for best results. The random orbital sander not only rotates, but allows you to sand much finer. In addition, the sanding is done in a fraction of the time and there is much less chance of uneven sanding in some places.

The final step – polishing, oiling and finishing your artwork

Epoxy resin does not necessarily require surface treatment. However, depending on the application, the wood next to it is raw and untreated. In addition, there may still be fine traces of sanding in the epoxy resin and the depth effect is suboptimal. In this case, the following procedures can be used:

Take a fine polishing paste on a rag and rub over the epoxy in a circular motion. They polish the surface and eliminate abrasion marks on the resin surface. Make sure that the paste is not applied to the wood, as this will clog the pores of the wood. For larger surfaces, an orbital buffer/polisher is recommended.

Place on a rag and rub over the epoxy in a circular motion. They polish the surface and eliminate abrasion marks on the resin surface. Make sure that the paste is not applied to the wood, as this will clog the pores of the wood. A is recommended for larger areas. Gently wipe off the polishing paste, being careful not to leave any residue. The surface should now be shiny.

The surface should now be shiny. If you are still not satisfied, repeat the first steps.

Now the wood needs a final treatment. Epoxy can also withstand a finish. Use a good quality wood oil, apply generously with a rag, leave for a few minutes and then wipe dry. You can also use a varnish. At the end, additional steps are then required for further polishing.

Application 4: Repair wood with epoxy resin

Before you start working on anything, you must first identify the underlying problem and why. If you can’t figure it out yourself, get help. The problem will always be different, and so will its solution.

For example, the wood will rot due to moisture given off by another part of the object. In that case you would need to swap out the rotten part for something more moisture resistant like redwood. Having said that, it would also be good if a metal plate could be held between them to avoid any kind of contact.

Well, this is a great way to control issues that led to the first result. Another problem that can arise is that the paint on the wood becomes old and ineffective, then the wood absorbs water and rots. This can easily be repaired by applying another coat of paint.

Now, in these situations, the repair can be easily done by introducing new materials into the environment and eliminating the cause of the specific problems. But in cases where the causes are much more complicated, this can become a difficult task. Epoxy resin can help here.

The only caution you need to take with epoxy is that you need to let the wood dry completely, which can take longer than you expect. If this is not done, the wood can continue to rot due to the trapped moisture. Therefore, epoxy resin and wood do not bond properly.

Now that you have an idea of ​​how to start, let’s learn how to repair wood with epoxy step by step.

Step 1: Take out or keep the damaged parts

Using a screwdriver, try to determine the extent of the damage by poking at the rotted or decayed parts. Now these parts should either be systematically removed or secured with an epoxy consolidator.

To remove all the necessary parts you will need a paint scraper, a screwdriver and a chisel. Once you’re sure how much damage is, start the process by removing the top layer of paint along with the rotten parts of the wood. If the paint is old, there’s a chance it also contains lead, which can be toxic. To do this, you need to learn about removal techniques to keep them safe.

If the part has any hope of salvation and has dried sufficiently, then drill ¼” holes, 1″ apart, and let the epoxy consolidant do its magic. It should penetrate the rotten piece of wood. If the surface is vertical then it would be better to have deeper holes to give the consolidant maximum space inside and also allow moisture to escape for the epoxy to soak.

If you accidentally drilled right through the wood, you can use putty or clay to secure the bottom to keep the epoxy consolidant from spilling out. To understand how to better use the consolidant in epoxy wood repair, read the instructions in the next step.

Step 2: Use a liquid epoxy consolidant

Choose a ventilated area to work or be prepared with a respirator to counteract the fumes. The application of the consolidant depends largely on the manufacturer’s instructions. Read them at least twice as the proportions can get tricky with epoxy and they need to be accurate, especially with wood epoxy.

Once the mixture is prepared, press it into the holes drilled in the wood for the repair needed. A small brush can help apply the setting agent effortlessly. Continue doing this until the entire piece is saturated and has fully absorbed the liquid.

It is important to let the wood dry for at least a week afterwards. That’s why it’s a good idea to keep it protected under a plastic wrap to protect it from dust and rain. To speed up the process, you can place the sheet outside during the sunny hours of the day.

Step 3: Prepare the filler for the outer surface

Even if the consolidant is not fully set, you can continue with this part. This can be a bit difficult to understand, so read carefully.

First, scoop the two pieces (A and B) of epoxy putty with a wooden stick the size of a golf ball. Mix them with a spatula for some time until thoroughly blended. Label the lids of the two pieces to avoid confusing the lids and permanently sticking them on the wrong containers. The same goes for the sticks to avoid annoying mishaps.

For the same reason, also make sure that the items you use for mixing are clean. When the new epoxy is mixed with the rest of the cured resin, it reacts and reduces your working time.

Temperature plays a big part after this point as it will determine when the resin filler begins to cure. At approx. 21°C you have 30 minutes to work with it. The warmer it is, the faster the epoxy will cure. If the temperature is colder, the epoxy will take longer to cure. It is therefore advisable to work in the shade so that all materials are mixed cool before application. But when finished, the piece can be held in sunlight to heat the wood epoxy for faster curing.

Step 4: Fill the voids with epoxy filler

Use the spatula to press the putty into the areas to be repaired. Be sure to use some force to bond the epoxy and wood.

To get the most out of the putty when filling in deeper places, you can carve sections out of another piece of wood and fix these blocks in place after application. You can apply additional paste on top for better results. Make sure the parts you are using are the same type of material and the grain is aligned when you attach them.

Step 5: Fill the filler into the desired shape

Wear gloves and use your fingers to get the shape you want. Overfilling the cavities can make molding easier. It should also be noted that the shape does not have to be perfect and must adapt to the surrounding materials. Depending on the weather, allow the patches to harden.

Step 6: Change the shape

Check the hardness of the epoxy and if it doesn’t dent that means it can be filed with sandpaper and other tools. First work out a rough contour with a surform plane or a rasp. The best guide is the natural shape of the surrounding wood.

Now that you’ve nailed the basics, use sandpaper to add the details. This will help you work on the surface if needed. For better results, fold the sandpaper around a stick or cylindrical body so you can sand more accurately and don’t accidentally sand areas you don’t want. This step must be performed with great patience and precision. Don’t rush things and make sure it only affects the areas you want to work on.

If more epoxy is removed you can always apply a second coat. Make sure beforehand that the first layer has been dusted off and the filler has been mixed exactly. If you want a thinner layer, you can mix up some consolidant and then add filler to get the right consistency. Heat the new layer with a dryer, and then you can start sanding again. If you then paint a decent coat over the epoxy it can last a very, very long time.

After first sanding with 80 grit sandpaper, use 120 grit sandpaper to finish your work. When grinding, your eyes need to be protected, so don’t forget to wear safety goggles and a mask for your nose and mouth. Remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner and acetone.

Step 7: Paint to protect

Start with a primer and then add two coats of acrylic paint to attach the epoxy and wood. Use a polyurethane caulk to finish the final layers. Make sure the repaired areas are inspected annually for repainting or recaulking.

Wood repair with epoxy resin can be easily done with the above process. Make sure all precautions are taken as mentioned and read about the materials you are using beforehand for clarity.

Processing Challenges – Tips and Tricks

Working with epoxy resin casting has its pitfalls. We have listed the biggest problems for you and tell you how you can avoid or fix these problems

Does epoxy resin bond to wood?

Yes, epoxy resin generally adheres to almost all surfaces. The thinner the resin, the more likely it is to penetrate and bond to the pores of the wood. Resin with a thick viscosity forms a layer on top instead.

The epoxy shrinks too much

Resin, especially cheap resin, shrinks during the curing process and can cause cracking or delamination in the surface. Here’s a tip: test how the resin reacts on a piece of wood and buy a higher quality product if you find it.

The epoxy sinks into the wood

With porous surfaces such as wood, it is particularly important to seal the surface beforehand. You don’t need a separate product for this, you can simply apply a thin layer of resin to the wood and let it harden. Then you have perfectly prepared the wood for the final surface treatment.

Multiple bubbles in cast resin

Thoroughly mixing the two resin components creates air bubbles. This cannot really be prevented, but they can usually be removed from the material without any problems: After the pouring process, you can run a flashlight or a hot air gun over the surface in quick movements and the bubbles will rise and disappear. For stubborn blisters, you can also use a toothpick to break the blisters. Hair and dust can also be removed in this way. However, the surface must still be fluid and able to level again.

Tip: Do not apply heat to one spot for too long, otherwise the resin will discolour and liquefy again. This can lead to unsightly stains.

The optimal working temperature

Ideally, you work with the material at around 20 degrees Celsius and as little humidity as possible. This will give you the best results and reduce quality loss. Ambient temperatures should remain constant until curing is complete to avoid cracking or unevenness. It is recommended to read the specifications of the respective manufacturers, as these vary from system to system.

The resin is extremely hot during casting

Depending on the resin used, the appropriate thickness of each layer is about 1cm-2cm (1/3in-3/4in). The resin can boil if you pour the layers too thick. For this reason you should try to pour thin layers and wait for them to set, then you can pour the next layer and so on. This will give you the desired thickness of the surface.

The epoxy cures too quickly

Different resins have different curing times. Also, as a general rule of thumb, the larger the mix, the faster it will cure. It may then be beneficial to split the mix to prevent premature curing.

The resin appears cloudy after curing

This can be due to three possibilities:

The epoxy is too old and past its shelf life.

You didn’t stick to the exact mix ratio.

You are using an inferior resin.

prevent yellowing

In order for transparent or crystal-clear epoxy resin to retain its brilliance and transparency, you need to buy a special resin that protects against yellowing. This is not necessary with colored resin.

Store epoxy resin

Epoxy resin that has not yet been mixed has a relatively short shelf life of approx. 12 months from production. It is therefore important to pay attention to these dates when purchasing and to use the material within this period. To avoid any loss of quality when storing the product, keep it between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius (50 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit).

Is the cured epoxy food safe?

When cured, epoxy resin is chemically neutral and generally suitable for contact with food. It is not for nothing that this material is also used for prostheses, aquarium decorations, feeding tanks, coatings for kitchen worktops and much more. However, we encourage you to read the following carefully. This can vary depending on the manufacturer and system. There is certification that allows food use, but it is expensive and very few manufacturers use it.

Calculation of the required amount of epoxy resin – the epoxy calculator from acrylgiessen

Resin is relatively expensive and mixed resin must be used up quickly, making it all the more important to mix the right amount. For this purpose, we have created an epoxy resin calculator on acrylgiessen.com to calculate the required amount of resin for the desired area.

Health Advice for Working with Resin

Even if not specifically stated by the resin manufacturer, you should use the product in a well-ventilated area. It is also recommended to wear a respirator with the appropriate filter and use nitrile gloves to avoid exposure to potential allergens.

SAFETY WORKS Multi-Purpose Respirator Multi-Purpose Respirator with Half Mask

Patented nose bridge design for optimal fit and seal

Lightweight design with durable cartridges and hygienic cover View on Amazon

O’WELL Nitrile Gloves 100% premium nitrile is medical grade and food grade

Super strong, 4 mil thick and chemical, tear and puncture resistant

Ambidextrous, latex-free, powder-free, vinyl-free, and finger-textured View on Amazon

NO CRY goggles with clear, scratch-resistant lenses Resin shouldn’t get in your eyes, of course

Therefore, when working with epoxy resin, you should wear safety goggles to protect yourself

More interesting blog posts about epoxy resin

Looking for tutorials on resin/epoxy resin techniques? Best Epoxy Resin – Find the perfect epoxy resin for all your projects

– Find the perfect epoxy for all your projects Resin Epoxy Art – Basics for your first steps in resin art

– Basics for your first steps in Resin Art Beach Art – Tutorial for resin art with textures

– Tutorial for Resin Art with Textures Resin Geode Art DIY – Pour your first geodes yourself

– Cast your first geodes yourself Resin Epoxy Calculator – Easily calculate the amount of resin you need

Main image: © chonticha – stock.adobe.com

Clamp the edges of the plywood with wood staples to hold the birch bark in place while it dries. Placing staples along the edge will hold the birch bark firmly to the plywood and prevent it from curling up while the glue dries. Laying down heavy objects like books can serve as an alternative to clamping if the project can lay flat. Leave the clamps or print on for at least four hours. Leave to dry for 24 hours before handling.