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Table of Contents
Can you grow Venus flytrap from seed?
(Unlike other US-native carnivorous plants, flytrap seeds do not require stratification.) Your seeds will germinate within four to eight weeks, depending on temperature. Look for tiny versions of the adult plant. As soon as you see signs of germination, make sure your seedlings are getting lots of bright sunlight.
How do you make a Venus flytrap seed?
To germinate your Venus flytrap seeds, sprinkle them on a medium that comprises mostly of shredded sphagnum peat moss. Your planting mix may include some vermiculite, or alternatively, perlite. A good ratio for your planting mix is 80% shredded sphagnum moss to 20% vermiculite or perlite.
Do Blue Venus flytraps exist?
There is no such thing as a “blue venus fly trap” that picture is photoshopped as you can see the blue ground matching the color of the plant.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
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Can Venus fly traps be different colors?
Venus flytrap color will be green in your home, but with bright light, plants can grow more reddish in color. Some Venus’ fly traps cultivars are selected to have more naturally red color, like Dionaea ‘Red Dragon’, D. ‘Red Piranha’, and D. ‘Colin’s Red Sunset.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
You can grow carnivorous plants in a variety of conditions, from natural bogs in your garden to a dish on a windowsill. The trick is to find out which carnivorous plants grow well in the conditions you have inside and outside your home. Carnivorous plants should never be collected in the field as most of them are relatively rare and threatened due to human population, agricultural land use and over-collection. If you are interested in growing carnivorous plants in your home, purchase the plants from a reputable breeder who will use tissue culture or vegetative means to grow the plant, or start from seed.
You can learn more about growing these common carnivorous plants
venus flytrap
American pitcher plant
sundew
Butterwort
Will 20 year old seeds grow?
There is a good chance that those old seed packets will have a high percentage of seeds that will germinate just fine. Most seeds, though not all, will keep for at least three years while maintaining a decent percentage of germination. And even a group of very old seeds may have 10 or 20 percent that still sprouts.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
The answer is yes, seeds will eventually go bad and not germinate, but it can take quite a long time. There’s a good chance these old seed packets will contain a high percentage of seeds that will germinate well. Most seeds, although not all, will last for at least three years while maintaining a decent percentage of germination. And even a cluster of very old seeds may have 10 or 20 percent still sprout.
Proper storage
Your old seeds will have the best chance of germinating if they have been stored properly. All seeds store most effectively in cool, dry conditions, so you should be wary of seeds stored in the opposite conditions – warm and humid. When examining seeds, discard the entire packet if they show signs of mold or any other fungus.
Many commercial seed packages may have an “Use By” date printed on them. Don’t take this date too seriously – seed companies use this date to ensure customers experience a high percentage of germination, and many seeds can remain viable for many years past the date printed on the package. But the date printed on it gives you an idea of how old the seed packet is. If you’re just a year or two past that date, there’s a good chance most seeds will still germinate when planted. But if the seed pack is six years or older, expect a much lower percentage of germination.
Going forward, proper storage is to date the seed packet upon purchase to ensure you know exactly how old it is when you reach for it in the future. If possible, store the seeds in a sealed plastic bag that contains a desiccant packet (those little packets often found in over-the-counter medicines) that keep the seeds dry. If you don’t have a desiccant, dry rice or powdered milk packets will also absorb moisture from the air. The sealed seeds can be stored in the refrigerator or other cool place, but do not freeze them.
The Spruce / Lacey Johnson
Average shelf life of some common seeds
Here are some estimated shelf life numbers from Oregon State Cooperative Extension, based on research. Note, however, that even in seed packets that are much older, some of the seeds may still sprout.
French and pole beans: two years
: two years turnips : two years
: two years broccoli:
Brussels sprouts: three to five years
: three to five years Cabbage : three to five years
: three to five years Cauliflower : three to five years
: three to five years carrots : three years
: three years Collard : three to five years
: three to five years Kale : three to five years
: three to five years Kohlrabi : three to five years
: three to five years Maize : one year
: one year cucumbers : three years
: three years Leeks, onions : two to three years
: two to three years lettuce : three years
: three years Melons : three years
: three years Oriental vegetables : three years
: three years Parsley : two years
: two years Parsnips : one year
: one year Peas : two years
: two years Peppers : two years
: two years radish : four years
: four years Swedes : three years
: three years spinach : one season
: one season Pumpkins : three to four years
: three to four years Chard : two years
: two years Tomatoes : three years
: three years turnips : four years
: four years Annual flowers : one to three years
Lifespan: one to three years Perennial flowers: up to four years
Is there a way to test seeds for viability?
Seeds gradually lose viability as they age, so a pack that starts out with a 90 percent viability rating on the pack may have a much lower viability rate after three or four years. A simple seed viability test, placing a small cluster of seeds on a damp paper towel to see how many sprouts sprout, can tell you approximately how many of the seeds in the packet are viable when planted.
If you have a group of seeds that you are unsure about, you can still plant them, but place them at a greater density than you would with fresh seeds. Even if only 30 or 40 percent of the seeds germinate, you can still have a successful seed.
The Spruce / Lacey Johnson
Can I salvage my own seeds from the plants I grow?
Saving and starting your own herb, vegetable, and flower seeds is a great way to garden every year for just pennies. Note, however, that seeds collected from hybrid plants may not “come true” from the seeds produced. You can still save the seeds, and those seeds will still sprout into seedlings, but it’s likely that the mature plants will have different characteristics than the plants you took the seeds from. This is because hybrid plants are created by cross-pollinating different parent strains and their seeds do not carry the complete genetic information. That’s not always bad. You may actually find that tomatoes from saved seeds, for example, are tastier than the hybrids, although they may not look as perfect. Flower seeds rescued from hybrid plants can produce some unusual and interesting offspring.
If you’re storing seeds from vegetables and fruits that you grow yourself, store them the same way you store packets of seeds – dry and cool.
Do Venus flytrap seeds need sunlight?
Growing Venus Fly Trap Seeds! # 1 | Venus Fly traps need direct sunlight for healthy growth. If you’re growing your plant indoors, choose a bright sunny windowsill. Insufficient sunlight will cause your flytrap’s leaves to become weak and floppy, and the insides of its traps will lack red coloration.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
The Venus Flytrap is the best known carnivorous plant. Charles Darwin once described Venus flytrap plants as “one of the most wonderful in the world”. Few people, having spent time with a healthy Venus flytrap and watched it consume an insect, would disagree.
Growing Venus Flytrap Seeds!
#1 | Venus flytraps require direct sunlight for healthy growth. If you’re growing your plant indoors, choose a bright, sunny windowsill. Insufficient sunlight will cause your flytrap’s leaves to become weak and limp, and the insides of their traps to lack red tint.
#2 | While Venus Flytrap plants don’t need a terrarium to grow, they tend to do better in an enclosed, higher humidity environment.
#3 | Like many other carnivorous plants, Venus flytraps require clean, pure water. Venus flytrap plants evolved to grow in moist, nutrient-poor soil, and giving them bottled, filtered, or tap water can lead to a buildup of minerals that will eventually kill your Venus flytrap plant. During the growing season, you should place your pots in about 1 cm of water (about ⅓ of an inch) and avoid watering from above. Venus flytrap plants prefer to grow in moist but not completely waterlogged soil. During the winter, Venus flytrap plants require less water and you should only keep the soil slightly moist.
#4 | To plant your Venus flytrap seeds, you should start by preparing your “soil.” Use the same soil that is the growing medium for adult Venus flytraps. We recommend peat moss mixed with quartz sand in a volume ratio of 1:1.
#5 | Next, prepare a growing container for your Venus flytrap plants. This container will keep your seeds moist and warm, but should also allow air circulation. A good simple choice is a Tupperware-like container. Drill holes in the top cover for proper airflow and also make holes on the bottom for proper drainage. Another option is to use a regular pot or planter and cover the top with a clear plastic bag.
No. 6 | Wet the growing medium with distilled water and add the growing medium to the container. Now you are ready to plant your Veuns Fly Trap seeds! Don’t bury your Venus flytrap seeds. Instead, sprinkle your Venus FLytrap seeds onto the already moist growing medium. Then sift a very fine dust of peat moss or peat moss over the seeds. The very light pollination helps keep moisture close to the seed, but also allows the seed to receive light, which is necessary for Venus flytrap seeds to germinate. Dusting with moss will also help keep the emerging root moist and prevent it from drying out and becoming calloused and stunted. Make sure your Venus flytrap seeds are only very lightly covered. Only cover the seeds where you can still see them through pollination. Cover them too much and prevent your seeds from germinating. If you can’t see the seed after pollinating, you’ve added too much.
#7 | Set up your germination chamber somewhere with bright, indirect light. Do not place the container in direct sunlight. This can cause your Venus Flytrap seeds to overheat, which can damage or kill the seeds and germinating plants. Once most of your Venus flytrap seeds have germinated, remove the container cover. Gradually give the seedlings more and more direct sunlight. Grown Venus flytraps need plenty of light, at least about 4-5 hours a day with good light. Seeds should germinate in 20-35 days but must never dry out or get excessively wet during this germination period.
#flies #trap #venus #venus flytrap #seeds
What’s the largest Venus flytrap?
The largest individual trapping leaf from a Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) is a specimen of the cultivar “Alien”, which was verified to be 6.1 cm (2.4 in) across the midrib on 7 June 2021.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
This surpassed the previous record trap of 5 cm (1.96 in), also a Harris-bred specimen of Alien measured in September 2020.
There are many varieties of Venus Flytrap and the size, shape and coloring of the trap vary widely. Typically, however, the snap traps are about 2–3 cm (0.7–1.2 in) wide across the midrib.
Harris founded the Colorado Carnivorous Plant Society in 2003 and has one of the largest private collections of carnivorous plants in the United States.
The “B-52” strain is a favorite selection among Venus flytrap breeders. Under ideal conditions, it can reportedly produce trap leaves of similar proportions to “Alien” and perhaps even larger, although none of these claims have yet to be officially measured and verified.
Can a Venus flytrap survive without bugs?
Although flytraps are carnivorous, they can go long periods (a month or two) without eating insects. If you grow them outdoors, they’ll get enough to eat naturally. If you’re growing Venus flytrap indoors, you’ll have to feed them bugs periodically.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
KariHoglund/Getty Images
Where Venus flytraps grow
Rather than originating a planet from Earth, Venus flytraps (Dionaea muscipula) are perennials native to swampy coastal areas of North and South Carolina. They grow in moist, acidic soil in full sun but only survive winter outdoors in zones 8-10. Gardeners in colder winter climates should grow Venus flytraps in a moist environment, such as a B. in a terrarium that can be placed indoors in winter.
Venus flytrap care tips
The Venus flytrap thrives in poor, acidic soil that stays moist but still has good drainage. Avoid planting it in regular potting soil: a mixture of one-third sand and two-thirds sphagnum peat moss provides the best drainage and moisture retention. Do not add lime and never fertilizer to the soil.
Venus flytraps thrive best in bright but indirect light. It’s especially important not to put them in direct sunlight in the summer, as this can get too hot and the leaves can become crispy. If grown indoors under artificial lights, keep flytraps 4 to 7 inches away from fluorescent lights. If your plant’s traps don’t show a pink interior or if the leaves look long and scrawny, provide more light.
For the best Venus Flytrap care, keep the area moist and the soil moist, but don’t leave the plants in water all the time. Never give your plants what comes out of your faucet; it is usually too alkaline or too rich in minerals. Instead, rely on rain or use distilled water. Good air circulation is also important when growing Venus flytrap plants, so turn on a fan in the room you’re keeping them.
gin hamlet
What to feed a Venus Flytrap
What Do Venus Flytrap Plants Eat? The name says it all: their main food is flies or other small insects. The trick is that the prey has to be alive when it’s caught. Dead flies don’t work in Venus flytrap feeding; The insect has to move in the trap for it to close and start digesting the food. It also needs to be small enough for the trap to close tightly around it to keep bacteria out.
If you are growing the plants in an enclosed terrarium, the easiest feeding method for the Venus flytrap is to release small flies around the room. Eventually, the bugs will be attracted to the traps and consumed. Although flytrappers are carnivores, they can go long periods (a month or two) without eating insects. If you grow them outdoors, they will naturally get enough to eat. If you grow the Venus Flytrap indoors, you will need to feed it bugs regularly. When feeding your flytrap, don’t feed it insects larger than one-third the size of the trap. Live flies might be difficult to feed, but small spiders, beetles, and caterpillars work, too.
Hibernation for Venus Flytraps
Like many other plants, Venus flytraps need a period of hibernation when they appear dead (the leaves may die back), but only dormancy. Keep the plant at 35 to 50 degrees F. Do not allow terrariums to freeze; The plants can die and the glass can break. Around the vernal equinox, as the days lengthen, warmth and light begin to increase.
Venus Flytrap Varieties
Plant breeders have worked with Venus flytraps and released a few strains, such as “Akai Ryu” ($15, Etsy), which has large burgundy red traps. These unusual strains are available at specialty garden centers or online retailers, like this Red Dragon Fly Trap ($23, Plant Delights Nursery).
Can you feed a Venus flytrap dead bugs?
To feed a dead bug to your plant, first drop it into the trap so the trap closes. Easily done. Next, ever so gently squeeze the two lobes of the traps between your thumb and forefinger, as if you were trying to pick up a delicate bit of… something delicate.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
Q: How exactly do I feed my Venus Flytrap?
I want to eat you! A: If you toss a dead bug down the maw of a Venus flytrap, even if the trap snaps shut, the plant can apparently lose interest in the bug and reopen the next day with no acceptance of the victim. Why did the plant refuse the food? The plant responded to your gift of a dead bug as if it were a false alarm. It’s rare in the wild for dead bugs to fall into carnivorous plant traps, and your plant doesn’t expect such easy prey.
You see, Venus flytraps have a clever trick up their botanical sleeve. This trick ensures they don’t waste their time and energy wasting the digestive process on traps set off by raindrops, escaped prey, undersized bugs, or by people looking for cheesy thrills. You need to understand this trick if you want to successfully feed your plant with dead bugs.
Munch munch! Look at the flat surface of the trapping leaves of an open Venus flytrap and you’ll see a few trigger hairs. If these are repeatedly touched by insectoid food, the trap snaps shut. Initially, the trap is closed very loosely. You can see the trapped beetle pacing back and forth in the trap. (This is always a good time to laugh at its fright. Ha! Ha ha!) If the bug were very small, it would escape. In this case, the trigger hairs (inside the trap) would no longer be stimulated and the trap would open again in about a day.
This way the plant avoids wasting time trying to digest sticks, raindrops or escaped prey.
But when a beetle remains trapped in its vegetable prison, its continued pacing stimulates the trap to close more fully. Digestion follows and the trap remains closed for several days. When it finally reopens, all that’s left is the sad exoskeleton. It will be a desolate sight. But you would be happy. (What kind of person are you anyway?!)
(I’ve often wondered what it would be like to be the trapped bug. I think it must be like being trapped in an elevator. If you’re ever trapped in an elevator, I recommend not wearing the trigger hair touch. Think what might happen. )
To feed your plant a dead bug, first drop it into the trap so the trap closes. Made easy. Next, very gently squeeze the two lobes of the traps between your thumb and forefinger, as if trying to pick up a delicate piece of…something delicate. Squeeze it a few more times, making sure the two lobes gently come into contact with each other. This will bend any trigger hairs in the trap. Another method is to carefully insert a toothpick or a blunt piece of wire (like a straightened paper clip) through the gaps in the loosely closed trap. Wiggle your tool a bit to stimulate the trigger hairs in the lobes.
If you have inappropriate thoughts based on my description, get your thoughts out of the gutter.
After a few minutes you will notice that the trap is moving to the next digestion phase. Your monstrous task is now complete!
Has anyone seen mine?
pet crane? Feeding your plant a live bug is a little easier. It can be a little frustrating trying to trap the bug. But your labor will be more than repaid if the plant breaks! (You ghoul, you.) Once the leaf has closed, the plant will do the job without your extra help.
I can say that you are the kind that will enjoy learning my favorite live bug trick. Place the bug in a jar (so it can’t escape) and turn the jar upside down over an extremely cold surface. These rectangular plastic containers filled with “blue ice” (the things you freeze to keep food cool in your coolers) are perfect for that. (I’m sorry if you’re not from the US and don’t understand the previous sentence – I’m sure Aussies, Brits and others have different names for these things.)
The chilled bug quickly stops moving and looks dead. Don’t overdo it or you’ll actually kill the bug. The dormant beetles are easily maneuvered into a Venus flytrap leaf. Snap! Within minutes, the beetle awakens to a terrible surprise. His scurrying back and forth movements stimulate the trap into the digestion phase. Mwa-ha-ha!
Do that horrible act in style. When using a sleepy cricket, dangle it from a single antenna and slowly lower its sad little body into a waiting maw. Watch it swing back and forth. Play music that’s appropriately Gothic or Metallic, Evanescence or White Zombie would do well. Or maybe wear a lab coat. It would be a good time to recite Edgar Allan Poe’s Pit and the Pendulum from memory:
Down – steadily down it crawled. I took tremendous pleasure in contrasting his downward speed with his lateral speed. To the right – to the left – far and wide – with the cry of a damned ghost! to my heart with the sneak step of the tiger! I alternately laughed and cried as one idea or the other became dominant.
If you’re really looking for cheap scares, consider that those legs and arms don’t add much nutritional value to the plant and really just get in the way. Snap snap, pull pull!
Now it’s time to tease your neighbor’s cat!
Page citations: Poe, E.A. 1966; Rice, B.A. 2006a; Fast, D.E. 1976; personal observation.
How long does it take to grow a Venus flytrap from seed?
Germination can take between 10 days and 30 days, depending on conditions. If kept fairly warm, the seeds should begin to germinate in 13-15 days with most of the germination finishing in 20 days, but some stranglers take over a month.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
Venus Flytrap Seeds are easy to germinate and grow provided a few conditions are met for optimal germination and initial growth. We will discuss these conditions and techniques in detail below.
In the northern hemisphere, the Venus flytrap’s flowering and seed production season is generally April through June. Fresh new seed should therefore be available by the end of June or early July. If properly stored in the refrigerator, the seeds will germinate excellently for at least a year after harvest. Many people report high germination rates even after several years of storage.
Buy Venus Flytrap Seeds from the FlytrapStore
Germination of Venus flytrap seeds
Venus flytrap seed germination container
Step-by-step instructions for growing Venus Flytraps from seed:
Start by preparing your “floor”. Use the same soil that is the growing medium for adult Venus flytraps. We recommend peat moss mixed with quartz sand in a volume ratio of 1:1. Perlite can also be added, but make sure the pieces are fairly small. Alternatively, long fiber peat moss works well. Do not use soil with other added ingredients such as B. Fertilizer. No “potting soil” and no Miracle-Gro because they contain minerals that kill Venus flytraps. Regardless of the soil you choose, it is highly recommended that you sterilize the soil before sowing the seeds. This will prevent mold and algae growth, at least until it is put back into the soil. We use a pressure cooker to sterilize our soil by placing a large bowl of soil (enough to fill any pot we will be using) in the pressure cooker and once it has reached pressure let it run for 30 minutes. For more information on sterilizing soil, see:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/sterilizing-soil.htm
Next, prepare a growing container. This container will keep the seeds moist and warm, but should allow air circulation. A good simple choice is a Tupperware-like container. Poke holes in the top cover for airflow and also in the bottom part for drainage. The holes in the lid provide ventilation and air circulation. They also allow excess heat to escape from inside the container (see photo above). Another option is to use a regular pot or planter and cover the top with a clear plastic bag.
Wet the growing medium with distilled water and add the growing medium to the container. Now you are ready to plant the seeds!
DO NOT bury the seeds. Do not plant seeds underground. Instead, scatter the seeds onto the moist growing medium. Then sift a very fine dust of sphagnum peat moss over the seeds. The very light pollination helps keep moisture close to the seed. It also helps prevent the emerging root from drying out and becoming calloused and stunted. It also gives the seed something to bump against when the root emerges and tries to dig into the ground. However, the seeds should only be slightly covered. Only cover the seeds where you can still see them through pollination. Cover them too much and they won’t germinate. If you can’t see the seed after pollinating with peat moss, pollinating is too much!
Spray distilled water on the peat moss to wet it and the seeds. Then cover the container with the vented lid. Germination can take anywhere from 10 to 30 days depending on conditions. If kept fairly warm the seeds should begin to germinate in 13-15 days with most germination being complete in 20 days but some shrikes will take over a month. Once most of the seeds have germinated within 4-6 weeks, the cover can be removed permanently.
Set up your germination chamber somewhere with bright, indirect light. Do not place the container in direct sunlight. This causes both the air and soil inside to become overheated, which can damage or kill the seeds and germinating plants. Bright indirect light is best. Once most of the seeds have germinated, remove the container lid. Gradually give the seedlings more and more direct sunlight. Grown Venus flytraps need plenty of light, at least 3-4 hours a day with good light.
Keep the growing medium moist and warm during the germination period of around 13-35 days. To water the seeds, either a) use a spray bottle to gently wet the soil surface and continue spraying to saturate the medium until some water runs out, or b) place the grow tray in a container with distilled water and the soil allow to suck water up through the drain holes in the bottom of your grow tank.
Make sure that the soil surface is always moist. This allows the newly emerging root to draw water and continue growing. Use mineral-free water ONLY: Distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or clean rainwater. Later, when the seedlings are transplanted from their temporary germination chamber, lower the water content and allow the plants more air. Venus flytraps, once past the tiny seedling stage, grow very healthily in just moist and not moist or saturated soil. Make sure, however, that the soil never dries out completely.
Keep your grow container moist. This is automatically achieved by covering the container. However, the inside of the chamber should be moist. At least once a day, lift the lid of the container and fan the air. This freshens the air and prevents mold growth. Although humidity needs to be higher for freshly germinating seeds, your later developed and transplanted Venus flytrap plants will not need higher humidity.
Keep your grow container at a warm temperature. The optimum temperature for germinating Venus flytrap seeds is above 78 degrees Fahrenheit and up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (24-32 or more degrees Celsius/Celsius. Seeds kept at much lower temperatures will take longer to germinate (3-5 weeks versus 13 -15 days) or not germinate at all if it’s too cold You can germinate seeds at temperatures slightly lower than optimal, but they will take longer to germinate.
After several weeks of growth, transplant your Venus flytrap seedlings to a more permanent uncovered container. Transplant when the “cotyledons” (the first two leaves, the seed leaves) are almost completely protruding from the seed and the first tiny true trapping leaf forms. At this stage the plant has a base and a tiny root that can be transplanted. The root helps anchor the plant in its new growing medium. The root also helps it adapt to conditions of lower humidity and more light. A simple method of transplanting is to use a damp wooden toothpick. Poke a tiny hole in the new and mineral flushed growing medium for the plant, gently lower the toothpick into the soil near the plant and lift it out of the soil with the root intact, place the plant in the tiny hole in it new seed tray and carefully align it correctly (leaves up, base and root down) and then very carefully place it in the new hole with the toothpick.
Venus Flytrap seedlings at 8 weeks old
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Should I stratify? — No, not for Venus flytrap seeds. Stratification is the process of keeping seeds cold and moist for several weeks or months, and for fall flowering plants, stratification can simulate a winter for seeds that are used to germinating the following spring. But Venus flytraps bloom in the spring, not the fall, and their seeds don’t need to be stratified. Instead, Venus flytrap seeds germinate within days (typically 13-25 days) after hitting the ground in summer, with the rate and speed of germination increasing with warm temperatures. Therefore, Venus Flytrap seeds should not be stratified, although if not sown immediately they can be kept in the cool refrigerator to keep them fresher longer and to encourage germination if sown at a later date.
— No, not for Venus flytrap seeds. Stratification is the process of keeping seeds cold and moist for several weeks or months, and for fall flowering plants, stratification can simulate a winter for seeds that are used to germinating the following spring. But Venus flytraps bloom in the spring, not the fall, and their seeds don’t need to be stratified. Instead, Venus flytrap seeds germinate within days (typically 13-25 days) after hitting the ground in summer, with the rate and speed of germination increasing with warm temperatures. Therefore, Venus Flytrap seeds should not be stratified, although if not sown immediately they can be kept in the cool refrigerator to keep them fresher longer and to encourage germination if sown at a later date. How do I store seeds? — To save excess seed for later germination, place it in a small plastic bag in the fridge. Squeeze the excess air out of the plastic bag to keep the seeds from drying out. Keeping them cold helps prevent them from trying to germinate prematurely (heat stimulates germination) and helps keep them fresh, and preventing them from drying out too much will keep them fresher longer and keep their germination rate higher. If you harvest your own seeds, allow the freshly harvested seeds to dry in a small open container for 2-3 days before storing in the refrigerator to prevent them from deforming (freshly harvested seeds are wetter).
— To save excess seed for later germination, place it in a small plastic bag in the fridge. Squeeze the excess air out of the plastic bag to keep the seeds from drying out. Keeping them cold helps prevent them from trying to germinate prematurely (heat stimulates germination) and helps keep them fresh, and preventing them from drying out too much will keep them fresher longer and keep their germination rate higher. If you harvest your own seeds, allow the freshly harvested seeds to dry in a small open container for 2-3 days before storing in the refrigerator to prevent them from deforming (freshly harvested seeds are wetter). When can I buy Venus flytrap seeds? In the northern hemisphere, the Venus flytrap’s flowering and seed production season generally lasts from around April to June. Fresh new seed should be available in late June or early July. When stored properly in the refrigerator, Venus flytrap seeds will germinate excellently for at least a year after harvest. Here is a link to buy Venus Flytrap Seeds at FlytrapStore.com: Venus Flytrap Seeds at FlytrapStore.com
In the northern hemisphere, the Venus flytrap’s flowering and seed production season generally lasts from around April to June. Fresh new seed should be available in late June or early July. When stored properly in the refrigerator, Venus flytrap seeds will germinate excellently for at least a year after harvest. Here is a link to buy Venus flytrap seeds at FlytrapStore.com: How do I pollinate and harvest my own seeds? Unless you plan to harvest seeds we never recommend growing the flower stalk on your Venus flytrap plant as this will use a lot of energy and the plant will not thrive very well that year. If you decide to let the flower stalk grow and bloom, it usually happens between February and May in the northern hemisphere. Flowers are receptive to pollen only 1 to 1.5 days after the flower opens. Pollinate receptive flowers with fresh pollen from a younger flower, preferably one that has just opened.
Seed production in Venus flytraps
You can use a small artist brush to pollinate the flowers. Brush the “anthers” (the antennae radiating around the fuzzy yellow “stigma” at the center of the flower) of a young flower to get some pollen. Then transfer this pollen to the stigma in the center of a slightly older flower (1-1.5 days older) by brushing lightly on the stigma.
You can do this a few times if you like as long as the stigma is receptive, which is still receptive when it’s still fuzzy and the bloom is open. Once the flower is pollinated, the petals begin to die off. For more information on pollination and harvesting of seeds click on the following link which will open in a new browser window (click on the photo to see full size): Venus Flytrap Seed Production
Venus flytrap seedlings at 7 weeks old
Venus flytrap seedlings after the first dormancy period
That’s all you need to know about growing Venus flytraps from seed! Do you have anymore questions? Visit the FlytrapCare forum for answers!
How long do Venus flytraps live?
Venus flytraps are perennial, carnivorous plants that can live up to 20 years in the wild. While most of their energy is obtained through photosynthesis, insects provide nutrients that aren’t readily available in the soil.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
We reached out to Steph Jeffries, Associate Teaching Professor at the Department of Forestry and Environmental Resources, to learn more about this fascinating plant.
1. They are native only to North and South Carolina.
While Venus flytraps have been planted and naturalized in other areas, they only occur naturally within a 75-mile radius of Wilmington, North Carolina. This area is primarily in North Carolina, but also includes some counties in South Carolina.
2. The Venus Flytrap is the only species in its genus.
For this reason it is called a monotypic genus. “It used to be in its own family too, Dionaeaceae,” Jeffries said. However, taxonomists have recently decided that it is closely related to the sundew, making it part of the Droseraceae family.
3. You don’t waste energy with false alarms.
The “traps” are two-lobed leaves with hair-like extensions for capturing prey. They close only when two hairs are touched within seconds of each other. In this way, the plants do not close due to false alarms. “There’s no need to expend energy on a random piece of debris or a drop of rain,” Jeffries said. When the traps close, digestive juices are released to decompose the insect inside.
Each plant has a cluster of leaves that grow from a central point near the soil surface. In favorable habitats, plants often grow close together. Photo by Maccoy Kerrigan, NC State University.
4. They rarely capture their pollinators.
Venus flytraps eat insects, but that doesn’t mean they catch their pollinators. NC State scientists Elsa Youngsteadt, assistant professor of applied ecology, and Clyde Sorenson, professor of entomology, worked with other conservation scientists to study this issue.
The researchers found that the flowers sit six to 10 inches above the trap-like leaves, which are close to the ground. The plants are pollinated by flying insects but mainly eat crawling insects.
5. Their greatest threat is habitat loss.
“Venus flytraps live in the humid, open longleaf pine savannahs, which often need fire to keep the stands open,” Jeffries said. Without frequent fire, trees and shrubs will begin to grow in these habitats, blocking smaller plants like the Venus Flytrap from the sun they need. In addition, longleaf pine forests occupy only 3% of their former extensive range throughout the coastal plain.
Poaching is also a problem, and Venus flytraps are considered a “Species of Special Concern” in North Carolina. While poaching has always been illegal, a 2014 change in state law made it a crime. However, Venus flytraps still lack protection for threatened and endangered species.
Does Venus flytrap flower?
Venus flytraps are perennial plants, which means they bloom year after year. The flowers are white with green veins running from the base of the petal toward the edges. Pollinated flowers eventually give rise to seeds. Each trap on the plant can only open and close several times before it dies and falls off.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
Description The Venus Flytrap is a flowering plant best known for its carnivorous eating habits. The “trap” consists of two hinged lobes at the end of each leaf. On the inner surfaces of the lobes are hair-like projections called trichomes that cause the lobes to snap shut when prey comes into contact with them. This type of movement is called thigmonasty – an undirected plant response to touch. To prevent the plant from wasting energy when there is no prey, the trap will only close if the trichomes are touched multiple times. The snap traps are edged with small bristles that lock when the trap is closed to ensure prey cannot wriggle out. There are other carnivorous plants in the wild, but the Venus flytrap is one of the few that exhibit movement to actively capture its prey.
Range The Venus flytrap is endemic to North and South Carolina, but has also been introduced to a few other states, including Florida and New Jersey. It is popular as a pot plant in many parts of the world, but unfortunately most of the Venus Flytraps sold have been cultivated or collected from declining wild populations. The plant grows in moist, acidic soil that can be nutrient poor. Venus flytraps need an open undergrowth (the part of the forest below the canopy) to live. Part of what keeps the undergrowth open is natural fires that sweep through portions of trees and shrubs and burn them away. These fires can be dangerous to humans, so we often stop them before they can benefit the forest. This makes for a less suitable habitat for the sun-loving Venus flytrap.
Diet The Venus Flytrap gets some of its nutrients from the soil, but to supplement its diet the plant eats insects and arachnids. Ants, bugs, grasshoppers, flying insects and spiders are all victims of the flytrap. A Venus flytrap can take three to five days to digest an organism and months can elapse between meals.
Life History Venus flytraps are perennial plants, which means they bloom year after year. The flowers are white with green veins running from the base of the petal to the edges. Pollinated flowers eventually give rise to seeds. Each trap on the plant can only open and close multiple times before it dies and falls off. Then the plant produces a new trap from its underground stems. The lifespan of the Venus flytrap is not known for certain, but it is estimated to live up to 20 years and possibly longer.
Conservation The Venus flytrap is internationally classified as vulnerable. It is also being considered for federal listing on the US Endangered Species List. This species is threatened by overcollection, habitat destruction, and firefighting.
Fun Facts Like all plants, the Venus flytrap gets its energy from the sun in a process called photosynthesis. It digests insects and arachnids to obtain nutrients not available in the environment.
Are there giant Venus flytraps?
Harris’ flytrap is probably not what immediately comes to mind if you’ve seen Little Shop of Horrors. His world-record flytrap is only about 6.1 centimeters in size. The world’s largest Venus flytrap on record, grown by Jeremiah Harris of Colorado Springs.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
He has been interested in carnivorous plants since he was about four years old. Now, 30 years later, he is said to be running the largest carnivorous greenhouse in Colorado. It’s not his only claim to fame.
He sold the world’s most expensive carnivorous plant to an anonymous buyer for $4,500 in 2019. It was a Nepenthes hybrid pitcher plant, and Harris named it “Leviathan” after his brother Levi.
He just set his next world record. In the Guinness Book of World Records 2022 you will find a large photo of Harris next to the “world’s largest Venus Flytrap” in existence.
“It wasn’t until the certificate actually came in the mail that I thought it was true,” Harris said.
Harris’ Flytrap is probably not what immediately comes to mind after watching Little Shop of Horrors. His world record flytrap is only about 6.1 centimeters tall.
The world’s largest Venus Flytrap ever, bred by Jeremiah Harris of Colorado Springs.
Despite this win, Harris isn’t done yet. He will continue to breed flytraps. He hopes to one day grow a four inch trap.
He grows about 230 different types of Venus Flytraps in his three greenhouses on his parents’ property in Colorado Springs.
“There’s really only one type of Venus flytrap, but over the years people have been pulling out all the little ones, like anomalies. So maybe this one stays green forever, it never turns red. Then this one’s like all red with weird teeth,” Harris said.
Harris has quite a large online following, amassing nearly 45,000 followers on Instagram.
For Harris, however, it’s not about the following or the world records.
“I’m still learning so much, like every year I’ll try different things. I will try different feeding methods, try different lights. I’ll adjust when it fogs up and how hot I let it get, how cold I let it get,” Harris said. “This challenge is definitely what makes me want to come back. That’s for sure.”
Each year, as his plants continue to grow, so does Harris’ love of the hobby.
He also sells plants, you can find his website here if you are interested.
Where is the seed of a Venus flytrap?
Venus flytrap seeds are small, black and shiny, and form in clumps that look rather like a blackberry. Seeds sown in moist, acidic soil in full sun after danger of frost will usually grow.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
How big is a Venus flytrap seed?
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How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
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How often do you water Venus Fly Trap seeds?
Most fly traps will only need to be watered every 10 to 14 days. The soil should become much drier (though never fully dry). The soil directly around the base and roots should be slightly damp, while the rest of the soil is dry. Water the plant like you would any other time, making sure to water thoroughly.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
Article overview
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To care for a Venus Flytrap, place it in a deep, insulated pot that will give your plant 4 to 5 inches of room for the roots to grow. Fill the pot with equal parts peat moss and perlite to mimic the plant’s natural environment. Place your plant in a spot that will get plenty of direct sunlight and keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, which runs from April to October. From November to March, water your plant only every 10-14 days. If your Venus flytrap lives indoors, you can occasionally give it a live mealworm or fly, or fertilize its soil instead. For tips from our reviewer on how to fertilize your plant, read on!
Why Your Flytrap Seeds are Fake – Venus Flytrap
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Fake Venus Flytrap Seeds – FlyTrapCare Forums
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Date Published: 2/21/2021
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Do Blue Venus Flytraps Exist? – Indoor Plant Guides
Unfortunately, every listing is of fake seeds. … As real Venus flytrap plants can be a bit finicky, it is often a good ea to buy them …
Source: www.indoorplantguides.com
Date Published: 7/28/2021
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Fake Venus Flytrap Seeds
It’s probably positive because the seeds arrived on time etc and such good feedback was given. However, germination takes several weeks or months. At this point, the question also arises as to whether the person perhaps did something wrong and didn’t get any germination. This is probably why selling seeds, such as counterfeit CP seeds, is still a going concern.
Seeds: Venus Flyltrap
Harvest your flytrap seeds when the seed pods are mature. This usually happens from August to September depending on your climate. If you buy your seeds from a nursery, ask the nursery when the seeds were harvested. Ideally, you want seeds that are no more than a few months old. Viability decreases significantly a few months after harvest. If they are more than a few months old, make sure the seeds have been refrigerated. Under refrigeration, flytrap seeds can last for years.
Scatter evenly over a pot of soil. Use a soil mix of 50% peat moss and 50% perlite. Make sure the soil is completely moist. Use a 4 inch pot when sowing a small pinch of these seeds (about 25 seeds). Scatter your seeds evenly over the soil and pat down very gently. It is much easier to sow your seeds in one pot and separate them later after they have germinated.
Fungal and mold spores grow in humid conditions, the very conditions needed for your seeds to germinate. To prevent mold and fungi, spray your seeds with neem oil or a sulfur-based fungicide. During germination, watch out for mold and fungi and treat accordingly.
Keep your pot in standing water. Use a tray or bowl to place your pot on and fill with water. Keep the waterline no more than halfway up the pot. Use little mineral water. Keep the temperature at 75° for optimal germination. (Unlike other carnivorous plants native to the US, flytrap seeds do not need to be stratified.)
Depending on the temperature, your seeds will germinate within four to eight weeks. Look for tiny versions of the adult plant. Once you see signs of germination, make sure your seedlings get plenty of bright sunlight. Place your seedlings on a brightly lit windowsill or grow them under strong fluorescent lights.
Within a few months, your plants can be up to 1/8 inch in diameter. After growing your flytraps indoors for their first winter, acclimate them to growing them outdoors where they can get full sun throughout the spring and summer. Do this in May, after the last frost of the year.
Typically, flytraps are only 1/4 to 1/2 inch in size by the end of their first year. They reach flowering maturity by the third season.
How to grow Venus flytraps from seeds
How to grow venus flytraps from seeds
When you receive your Venus flytrap seeds, be careful not to lose them as they are so small. As you prepare to plant them, place the seeds in a safe place until you are ready to plant them.
planting medium
To germinate your venus flytrap seeds, sprinkle them onto a medium consisting primarily of crushed sphagnum peat moss. Your planting mix may contain some vermiculite or alternatively perlite. A good ratio for your planting mix is 80% crushed peat moss to 20% vermiculite or perlite. Alternatively, you can use peat pellets such as “Jiffy Peat Pellets,” which are available online or at a garden center.
Sow the seeds very thinly on the medium so once germinated they can grow for a full season without either overcrowding or the need for transplanting. The reason you should thinly sow the seeds is because you want larger plants, not small plants that are the result of overcrowded conditions. In addition, overcrowding of Venus flytraps can lead to a higher incidence of fungal diseases, which is extremely common in overcrowded seedlings. After thinly sowing the seeds, a very thin layer of planting medium can be used to cover them, but this is not necessary.
light
After sowing the seeds, you should expose the planter tray or pot containing your venus flytrap seeds to as much light as possible. For geminating seeds, more light is always better than less light. Bright light in the form of natural or artificial light is essential for the successful germination of your seeds. Regarding light, it must be said that although natural sunlight leads to the germination of many seeds, artificial light in the form of fluorescent tubes has a clear advantage. The main benefit, of course, is the longer time you can expose the seeds to light. If you are using fluorescent lights to germinate your Venus flytrap seeds, make sure they are on for 12-16 hours a day. Using a timer with your fluorescent lights will make the whole process a lot easier by putting this project on autopilot. A common question we get asked is “how far above the seedling tray or pots should we place the lights?” The answer is simple, as close as possible. In fact, the closer the fluorescent lights are to the seed and ultimately the seedling, the more usable the light becomes. Therefore, our recommendation is to place the lights 2 – 3 inches above the seedling tray or pots.
moisture and water
As important as light is to germinating Venus flytrap seeds, nothing will happen if you don’t provide the right amount of water and humidity. The growing medium should feel moist, but not soggy like a waterlogged sponge. In addition, the seedlings germinate better in an environment with high humidity. Increasing the humidity can be as simple as putting plastic wrap over the seedling tray or pots “saran wrap” style, or for a more sophisticated setup by using one of those commercially available seed starter kits that usually come with a plastic dome. Many of you may already be familiar with this type of seed starter kit, which includes a thick plastic tray, peat pellets, and a clear plastic dome to keep the moisture from escaping. Another important note regarding water is using the right water. By the right kind, we mean anything but tap water. Most tap water contains far too many chemicals and minerals (salts) that will kill your Venus flytraps in the long run. Therefore, we strongly recommend using either spring water, distilled water or, if you have access to it, rainwater.
temperature
While an adult Venus flytrap can tolerate a wide range of temperatures throughout the growing season, maintaining a temperature range of 80-85°F (26.7-29.5°C) will speed seedling germination. In fact, most gardeners know that seeds thrive better in a warm environment, which is why many serious home gardeners and commercial growers use heating coils or heating pads to keep seeds warm. This may only be necessary during certain times of the year, e.g. B. if you start sowing in winter. So if you do everything right, e.g. B. Provide 12-16 hours of fluorescent light per day, have given the seeds just the right amount of water and moisture and they still won’t germinate, then it might be time to invest in a heating mat to place under the seedling tray or pots can.
Conclusion
When the seedlings have at least four leaves, they can be transplanted. If you are growing more than one seedling in a pot or tray, be sure to plant them at least 1 inch apart to avoid overcrowding. Please also remember that you need to be patient with this whole process. It can take several years for the Venus Flytrap seedling to grow into large and mature plants. For those of you beginning to grow Venus Flytrap from seed, you will no doubt find this project a satisfying endeavor.
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