Finger Lime Tree Canada? The 191 Correct Answer

8521 shares

The finger lime (sometimes referred to as the caviar lime) is native to Australia and true to its common name, the small oblong fruit is the size and shape of a fat finger.

If it’s not as popular as it should be, it’s not because there’s a lack of demand. The production of this gourmet item just can’t keep up with the demand in the culinary circles. This is a good reason to grow your own plant.

This small citrus species is prized for its tiny, juice-filled, pearl-like sacs, giving it the nickname “lime caviar.”

Depending on the variety, they can be green, white, pink or red. Served as a topping on seafood, salads or soups, they add a surprising twist to the dish as they pop on the tongue, releasing their zesty citrus notes.

The Fingerlinde in its natural habitat

Australian finger lime (Citrus australasica) is native to the lowlands of New South Wales and Queensland and typically grows wild in warm and humid subtropical rainforests.

It is a large shrub rather than a tree and forms the undergrowth in coastal forests. It therefore prefers slightly acidic soil and partially shaded to sunny locations.

The Fingerlinden doesn’t exactly look like a typical lemon or linden tree, although it has many sharp thorns. The leaves are rather small and the branching irregular. The small fruits, measuring 1 to 4 inches, resemble legumes in that they cling to the branches. They can be different shades of green, red, brown or black.

Fingerlinden tolerate cold to a certain extent, but not frost. Established plants can survive drought, but moisture in the soil is also preferred. It is especially important for young plants.

Cultivation of the Australian Fingerlinden

Australian finger limes were originally a bush food that early settlers sought from the wild. As it began to draw the attention of the culinary world, commercial cultivation began in the 1990s. The fruits were not seen outside of the continent until the early 2000s.

Grafted rootstock is usually used as planting material. Fingerlinden can be grown from seeds and semi-hard cuttings, but it has some disadvantages.

Seedlings grow very slowly and usually take up to 15 years to bear fruit. They are also more accurate in terms of growing conditions. Plants grown from cuttings often fail to thrive and are more susceptible to disease.

Grafted rootstocks will give you mature plants much faster. They could bear fruit in as little as 2-3 years, although it may take another 3-4 years to have a good yield.

Another advantage of grafting is that rootstocks that can withstand adverse climatic conditions can be used, making the trees more tolerant of the vagaries of nature.

Given their natural growing conditions, the coasts of Florida and California can be ideal for growing finger limes in the garden.

However, they can be successfully grown in pots wherever you live, as long as you provide natural growing conditions. In fact, growing finger linden in pots has several advantages.

6 reasons to grow finger limes in pots

1. Maintaining correct soil pH

The Australian pineapple thrives well in a pH range of 5 to 6.5. This condition is easier to maintain in containers than in the ground.

2. Providing good drainage

The finger linden naturally grows in areas with high humidity and frequent rainfall, especially in summer. While it tolerates short periods of drought, it prefers an evenly moist soil with good drainage to avoid waterlogging.

3. Protection from the elements

These shrub-like trees need protection from the wind and cold, and not just when they are young. Older trees and their fruits are also susceptible to wind and cold damage.

Too much hot sun can also burn the fruit. As the fruit ripens, a shower can cause them to crack and rot. Those growing in containers can be moved to a sheltered location if necessary.

4. Harvest ripe fruit

Finger limes taste best when ripe on the tree. Not only do you get the best taste, but the fruit keeps for a long time without damage. Timely harvesting is easy when this tree is grown in a container.

5. Size control

Fingerlindens are naturally small, which makes them ideal for growing in containers. However, their thorny branches occasionally need pruning. This, as well as fruit picking, is much easier with potted plants.

6. Check for pests and diseases

Fingerlinden are not very susceptible to disease, but fungal rust, scale, and aphid infestations are common. Citrus gall wasp infestations can be a problem in areas with many citrus trees.

It’s easier to look for and identify problems if you have the tree in a container. It is also protected from common soil pathogens, especially nematodes.

Growing the Australian Fingerlinden in containers

Choose the right container

Choose the largest pot that is convenient for you. You don’t want to shock your finger linden with frequent repotting.

Start with at least a 5 gallon pot to allow the roots to spread. A larger container, 15 gallons or larger, is even better, but it can also be tricky if you have to move it frequently. It might help to store the container on a sturdy plant caddy – you can buy it on Amazon here.

A terracotta or plastic container will do. Terracotta is better if you tend to overwater, and plastic pot if you are likely to forget the schedule.

Whatever the material, the most important consideration is drainage. The pineapple likes to be watered regularly, preferably every 3-4 days, so the container should have holes to allow excess water to drain. Growbags are also a good option because they allow water to evaporate faster.

Read Next: 40 Unique and Fun Container Garden Ideas

Use good quality potting soil

Fill the pot two-thirds full with good quality potting soil and mix in some additional sand and bone meal. Sand provides drainage and bone meal serves as a slow-release source of the calcium and phosphorus that citrus plants need.

Fingerlinden themselves are not overly picky about soil fertility; They don’t mind poor soil in their natural habitat. However, the rootstocks they are grafted onto are like fertile soil in which to thrive.

Find a good location

This undergrowth tree grows in dappled light in its subtropical home, but does well in a sunny spot, especially in cooler areas. Some shade in the afternoon can be appreciated in summer however. You can grow this tree indoors as long as it receives six hours of sunlight.

Choosing the varieties to breed

Australian finger lime selection may be limited by local availability of grafted trees. Several new hybrids have been developed in recent years, but not all nurseries stock them and shipping restrictions may apply.

The color of the lime caviar is usually the main selection criterion, although it can be just as appealing in any color.

The ‘Blood Lime’ hybrid has bright red flesh, while ‘Rainforest Pearl’ is a pink fleshed variety. ‘Durham’s Emerald’ bears black fruits with light green flesh. ‘Judy’s Everbearing’ has clear flesh and bears some fruit all year round. ‘Alstonville’ is a heavy producer with pale green flesh.

Some of the strains mentioned are protected by PBR registrations, so be sure to buy your plants from reputable nurseries.

irrigation

The finger linden likes an evenly moist, but not too wet soil for a long time. It comes from an area that receives summer rains, so don’t let the soil dry out completely. Water twice a week or when the top layer of soil is dry. A layer of mulch can help keep the soil cool and moist.

Avoid overwatering or waterlogging as this can kill the plant. A gravel tray can be placed under the pot to increase humidity, but the pot itself should not be submerged in water.

feeding

The Australian pineapple is not a heavy feeder, but does require a small dose of nutrients every 3 months.

Top dressing with compost, seaweed extract, or fish emulsion will help keep the soil rich and healthy as the growing tree depletes the soil nutrients. Diluted compost tea or worm tea can be used as a foliar spray for an extra boost.

Flower and fruit set

After your finger linden is well established, you may have to wait a while before you get the fruit. Grafted trees begin flowering in their second or third year, as their rootstock comes from mature linden trees.

Flowers usually appear in winter (that’s June to August in Australia in the southern hemisphere) and flowering continues into spring. The fruits take 5 months to ripen and are ready to be picked by the end of summer.

Once the tree begins to bloom, feeding should be stopped until the fruit is 1 inch long. The fruit will fill out and change color as they ripen, indicating they are ready to be harvested.

Have your gardening gloves ready to hand pick among the thorny branches and enjoy.

Where can you buy a finger linden tree

You may be able to find a pineapple at your local nursery or garden center, or they may be able to order one for you.

You can also order finger limes online. Nature Hills Nursery is one such nursery that has plants and trees for sale including this beautiful Fingerlinden.

Pin this to save for later

Lemon image by dinostock from Fotolia.com

In Canada, the only way to grow lemons is to plant trees in containers so they can overwinter indoors. No lemon tree will survive the Canadian winter. Some cultivars, like the Meyer lemon, are smaller trees. However, by growing your lemon tree in a pot and cutting back the roots, you can limit the size of larger varieties.

Ponderosa Lemons Ponderosa lemons are the largest of the lemon family. Ponderosa lemons can weigh up to 5 pounds. everyone. These lemons have more seeds than other varieties. When grown outdoors, the ponderosa lemon tree can reach 25 feet tall. But keeping it in a pot helps control its size. This lemon has a thick, bumpy skin and was introduced commercially around 1900. It resembles a lemon and is probably a cross between a citron and a citron. Although often grown as an ornamental, the fruit can be used as a lemon or lemon substitute. In Canada, the only way to grow lemons is to plant trees in containers so they can overwinter indoors.

However, by growing your lemon tree in a pot and cutting back the roots, you can limit the size of larger varieties.

Meyer Lemons Meyer lemons are also a pot lemon tree that can grow well in Canada as an indoor lemon tree or both indoor and outdoor lemon trees. A dwarf lemon, the pulp of a Meyer lemon is orange. The Meyer lemon is a cross between an orange and a lemon. They have a thinner skin than most supermarket lemons. The peel of the Meyer lemon is yellow and the fruit is practically seedless. Of all lemons, the Meyer lemon is the coldest. However, it’s a good idea to bring it indoors when freezing temperatures are forecast. Meyer lemons are also a pot lemon tree that can grow well in Canada as an indoor lemon tree or both indoor and outdoor lemon trees.

Of all lemons, the Meyer lemon is the coldest.

If you have recently planted linden trees in your garden, you may not see fruit on the branches yet. In this case, you may be wondering when linden trees bear fruit and if there is anything you can do to help them.

So when does a linden tree bear fruit? A linden tree bears most fruit in the summer, although some linden trees can bear fruit all year round. A lime tree bears fruit 1 to 3 years after planting. A lime takes 6 to 9 months to fully ripen.

Of course, depending on the variety you choose, it may take longer for your linden tree to start bearing fruit. There are other factors such as improper pruning, over-fertilization, and environmental conditions that can retard the growth of fruit on your basswood.

Let’s take a closer look at linden trees, when they bear fruit, and what factors can affect your harvest.

When does a linden tree bear fruit?

It takes a linden tree 2 to 3 years to grow out of the juvenile stage and start bearing fruit. Trees grown from seed may take an extra year or two to start bearing fruit.

Lime trees do not bear fruit until they are 2 to 3 years old. Limes take 6 to 9 months to fully ripen.

Many linden trees bear most of their fruit in the summer, but some can bear fruit all year round. Keep in mind that limes can take 6 to 9 months to fully mature.

For more information, see this article on limes from the Texas A&M Extension.

You might also see some limes falling from the tree in spring. This is simply the way a tree only holds as much fruit as it can reasonably bear to maturity.

Fruit drop is severe in dry, hot, and windy weather, or when trees are not adequately watered.

For more information, see this article on citrus from the Arizona Cooperative Extension.

Do linden trees bear fruit every year?

No, linden trees do not bear fruit every year. In the first few years of life, a linden tree focuses its energy on growing and storing energy and nutrients.

Linden trees do not bear much fruit in the first years of life. They can also sometimes alternate between years of heavy fruiting and almost no fruiting, known as biennial bearing or alternate bearing.

Keep in mind that problems like frost damage, over-pruning and over-feeding can delay fruiting on a linden tree by a year or more.

Also remember that if you plant a seed harvested from a hybrid lime tree, you may be growing a tree that will never bear fruit. To ensure fruit production on a linden tree, purchase an established plant from a nursery online or in person.

In some cases you will see a so-called “two-year storage” for your Linden trees. This means that they only bloom and bear fruit every two years.

Often this happens after a year of very heavy fruit production. In essence, using so many nutrients for a large harvest has depleted the tree’s resources. The tree then takes a year to regain strength and prepare for production the following year.

You can possibly avoid biennial bearing by thinning out the flowers and fruit in heavy years.

How much fruit does a linden tree bear?

The amount of fruit your linden tree produces will vary depending on its age, variety, location, and quality of care.

A mature linden tree can bear 30 to 50 pounds of fruit in a year.

According to the University of Florida, a mature lime tree can produce 30 to 50 pounds (13 to 23 kilograms) of fruit per year.

Key limes are 1.5 to 2 inches (3.8 to 5.1 cm) in diameter and are often green (although some varieties ripen to a yellow color).

What kind of linden should I buy?

When choosing a linden tree, be sure to choose one that can grow in your climate! For more information, see the USDA Zone Hardness Map to see which zone you are in.

Here are some different lime tree species you might want to try.

Key Lime – This tree grows in zones 9 through 10 and produces small green fruits that ripen in summer. The mature tree is 6 to 8 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide. The tree will bear fruit in 1 to 2 years. For more information, see Key Lime Trees on the Stark Brothers website.

Bear Lime – This tree grows in zones 9 through 11 and produces small green fruits that ripen at different times of the year. The mature tree is 7 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. The tree will bear fruit in 1 to 2 years. For more information, see Bearss Lime on the Nature Hills website.

Kaffir Lime – This tree grows in zones 8 through 10 and produces small green fruits. The peel (skin rubbed off) or leaves of the tree are often used to flavor food. The mature tree is 10 to 12 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide. The tree will bear fruit in 1 to 3 years. See Kaffir Linden Trees on the Nature Hills website for more information.

Thornless Mexican Lime – This tree grows in zones 9 through 11 and produces small green fruits. The mature tree is 6 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. The tree will bear fruit in 1 to 3 years. For more information, see Thornless Mexican Lime Trees on the Stark Brothers website.

Do you need two linden trees to get fruit?

No, you don’t need two linden trees to get fruit as most linden trees are self-pollinating. This means that the flowers contain both a male and a female part.

However, self-pollination does not mean guaranteed pollination. The flowers have yet to be pollinated by insects or by you (with an electric toothbrush or otherwise).

Use an electric toothbrush to stimulate blooms and increase the likelihood of trees selfing.

This is especially important if you are growing linden trees indoors. Be sure to use an electric toothbrush, paintbrush, or other tool to stimulate pollination of your lime tree’s flowers.

For more information, see this Clemson University article on citrus trees.

What other factors affect fruits on Linden?

The quality of care you give your linden trees will determine how much fruit you get each year. Some of the most important factors are temperature, watering, fertilization and pruning.

temperature for linden trees

Most linden trees grow outside in zones 9 and 10. If you grow linden trees elsewhere, you’ll need to keep them indoors for part of the year to protect them from the cold.

Cold temperatures in the high 20s Fahrenheit (-3 to -2 degrees Celsius) will kill or severely damage linden trees. For more information, see this article on citrus trees from Texas A&M University.

It is best to prepare to bring your Linden indoors when there is a risk of frost.

For more information, see this University of Arizona article on protecting a citrus tree from the cold.

Irrigation for linden trees

Avoid letting the soil get too dry for too long, especially if you have young linden trees. If you have a problem with dry soil, read my article on avoiding dry soil.

Be careful not to over- or under-water your linden trees!

Although lime trees prefer moist soil, soil that is too wet can cause problems. Overwatering can kill your lime tree from root rot or fungal diseases.

If necessary, you can plant your linden trees on a hillside to aid drainage. See my article on overwatering for more information.

Fertilization for Linden

In general, according to Texas A&M University, compost and mulch are not necessary for a basswood tree.

It may be necessary to use fertilizer as a supplement to provide additional nutrients if your soil is lacking. The best way to determine if fertilizer is needed is to do a soil test.

See my article on soil testing for more information.

Keep in mind that it is possible to harm or kill your linden trees by overfeeding them. For example, too much nitrogen can prevent your lime tree from bearing fruit.

See my article on over-fertilization and my article on low-nitrogen fertilizers for more information.

Pruning for lime trees

Linden pruning is not usually necessary, except for damage from winter cold and storms.

Lime trees usually do not need to be pruned unless there is frost damage to deal with.

For more information, see this article on limes from Texas A&M University.

Distance for Linden

Lime trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart (for dwarf citrus trees, leave 6 to 10 feet between trees).

Of course, you can adjust the spacing between trees based on width, as indicated in a nursery catalogue.

It is crucial to leave enough space between the trees to prevent competition for water and resources. This extra space also gives you room to tend your trees as needed.

For more information, see this article on citrus trees from The Old Farmer’s Almanac.

Conclusion

By now you have a good idea of ​​when linden trees are mature enough to bear fruit and what time of year to expect fruit. You’ll also know a little more about how to care for linden trees and how to avoid problems that can affect your harvest.

I hope you found this article helpful – if so, please share it with someone who can use the information.

If you are interested in growing citrus, then you should also check out my article on growing lemon trees.

You can learn more about dwarf fruit trees that are easier to care for and harvest from my article here.

If you want to read some of my most popular posts, check out the Best of GreenUpSide page here. Enjoy!

~ Jonathon

Finger limes (Citrus australasica) are a native citrus fruit that produces elongated fruits that look like squat pinky fingers. The pulp inside is made up of tiny translucent balls that are just bursting with flavor and what people love. To use the fruit, simply cut it in half, squeeze out the flesh and add to fish dishes, salads, desserts and even cocktails for a bit of citrus.

Finger limes grow as a large dense shrub or small tree, but if you have the space they also make a fabulous informal hedge that beneficial insects and birds will appreciate as much as you do. It’s a win-win situation!

Finger Lime Varieties

There has been an explosion of finger lime varieties released in recent years that you may be wondering which one to choose. Essentially, they are all the same when it comes to flavor, with differences in the size and color of the fruit. The skin of the ripe fruit can be green, burgundy, or dull orange, while the flesh can be green, pale peachy, or red. Just choose what suits you.

How to grow finger limes

Finger limes grow naturally as an undergrowth tree in the subtropical rain forests of southeast Queensland and northeast New South Wales. In the wild they can grow up to 6 m tall, but in culture they usually stop at 3 m, allowing easy access to the fruit.

You can often find grafted varieties at nurseries that are suitable for growing in a variety of soils and climates. They are usually fertile fruit bearers and should bear fruit within a year of planting. Grafted varieties are more expensive, but it’s worth it considering that non-grafted forms can take up to 15 years to start bearing fruit.

Help! My finger lime has no fruit! Posted by Comments Off on Help! My finger lime has no fruit! Posted by Boutique Citrus on January 8, 2019 in Blog

So your Finger Lime was looking promising with its little flower buds and suddenly they are gone and no fruit is forming either. Not again!

We get this question about finger limes from many avid gardeners, and while it’s difficult to pinpoint the problem, we can narrow it down to a few key things.

Six Reasons Your Fingerlinden Might Not Have Fruit

1. Not enough water during fruit set

It’s important to water your pineapple during fruiting – especially if you have them in a pot. Be sure to water it twice a week to ensure the soil is moist. To test, poke a few fingers in the soil near the stem of your finger lime. When it’s wet it’s great, when it’s dry it’s time for water! Too little water will result in the tiny fruit falling off leaving you with no finger limes for the summer.

2. Not enough sunshine

While the finger lime is a rainforest plant, we know from the 6000 trees we have that they LOVE full sun. As long as you water your finger lime regularly, you should find that it responds well to a very sunny spot.

3. climate

Finger limes grow naturally in South East Queensland and North NSW. Western Australia has had some success with finger limes, but it is the humidity of NSW and Queensland that is allowing finger limes to thrive and reach their full potential. Dry, arid or frosty and colder climates will challenge the hardiest of these strains and usually result in losing your fruit to frost. If possible, keep your finger lime in a greenhouse for the colder months to replicate the tropical vibe of their natural environment.

4. Pollination

There is a lot of talk about the significant decline in bee numbers around the world. For avid gardeners and farmers alike, it is important to have plenty of flowers and plants that will attract the bees to your garden and orchard to do their job. As with any fruit, finger lime flowers are pollinated by native bees and honey bees – if the flowers are not pollinated, your finger lime tree will not produce fruit. Alternatively, you can try dusting yourself with a small, clean and sterilized brush.

5. Numbers

One-toed linden trees seem to be particularly prone to not producing fruit. Having two or more in your garden or pot seems to get our friends the success they are looking for – no doubt the bees doing their pollination work also contribute to this point.

6. Fertilizer

Regular feeding with a nitrogen-phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should give you great results. Just make sure you do the right dilution and don’t fertilize while your plant is flowering. Before or after is ok.

Let us know how your facility is doing, or if you have a question, contact us here.

Pruning a Fingerlinden contributes to healthy, tasty fruit year after year. It also protects this delicious but vulnerable citrus from diseases and pests. How to prune your Australian finger lime.

Important facts about lime cutting

Season – After Harvest (Autumn)

How often – annually

Main concerns – suction cups, clearance from the floor

Watch out – gall wasp swells

Make it a regular chore to visit your finger limes with secateurs, monthly is best. A small cut at a time is gentler on the tree than a single heavy cut every year.

Ideal shape for a finger linden

Three important facts determine the pruning shape your tree should have:

Finger lime fruits are hand picked from the tree.

From the tree. Sun helps fruit to ripen.

helps fruit to ripen. Air circulation reduces disease and pests.

Although the finger lime grows less vigorously than most other citrus varieties, it still needs regular pruning. The ideal shape you should aim for has the following characteristics:

Free trunk to knee height (18 inches or 45 cm). When grafting, make sure nothing sprout from under the graft site.

up to (18 inches or 45 cm). When grafting, make sure nothing sprout from under the graft site. Four to six main branches, about hip height, evenly distributed in all directions. Typically, the main stem is snapped off at about 2-3 feet or 60-90 cm in height.

, distribute evenly in all directions . Typically, the main stem is snapped off at about 2-3 feet or 60-90 cm in height. Side branches form a canopy in the shape of a flat dome.

. Over time, a mature 15-year-old tree would remain 8 to 10 feet (2.5 to 3 meters) wide and 6 to 8 feet tall (2 to 2.5 meters). It might take a decade to get that big.

and . It might take a decade to get that big. Finger lime is very thorny, with fragile fruits. Branches should be thinned out so that the tree is somewhat “see-through”.

It’s best to circle the tree each month to trim any shoots or branches that don’t fit this shape. Bring thick gloves as the thorns are sharp.

When to start pruning finger lime

Start clipping your finger limes early.

A pruning as early as the 2nd or 3rd year forms the tree without much effort. Citrus wood is hard, so it’s easier to cut into small pieces.

forms the tree without much effort. Citrus wood is hard, so it’s easier to cut into small pieces. Finger lime, if not pruned, will grow into a random thicket of thorns. It will be difficult to correct and impossible to reap.

Once the top has grown to a height of 60-90 cm (2-3 feet), you can start selecting and favoring the structural branches.

Steps for pruning finger lime

Pruning is not just about giving the tree the ideal shape. It also helps control pests, fruit quantity and quality, and diseases. Follow these steps to verify what to remove.

Australian finger lime doesn’t like an extreme cut. Never remove more than a third of the tree at a time. Always keep some live branches at the top of structural branches to ensure sap is circulating.

What should be considered when cutting finger lime?

Structural branches – as horizontal as possible, fanning out evenly from the trunk in all directions. For the first few years, mark them with twine or a loose tag.

Secondary Branches – Keep one or two that are furthest horizontally at the top of each structural branch.

These will expand the structural branch in the years to come.

If two branches cross or touch, remove the uprightest one.

or touching, remove farthest branches Remove any branches that grow inward into the tree or toward the trunk or middle.

Remove these: Inward – Crossing – Up. As in “I see you, ICU!”

Suckers – Remove any shoots that are just sticking out of the trunk. You can keep one if you need to create a new structural branch, but make sure it sprout over the graft connection.

Socket – The “skirt” of the tree is how deep the branches reach. Cut off any branches lower than knee height (2 feet or 60 cm).

Thinning – This aims to reduce the density of the tree canopy. In particularly dense spots that block light and air, remove one in four or one in three side branches. A breeze should filter through the tree and not go around it. Sunlight should land on branches in the middle of the tree.

Deadwood – Cut deadwood back to the nearest joint. Also trim small branches and shaggy growth from the main branches.

Pests – If you ever notice swelling along a branch, look for gall wasps. Cut out contaminated branches and burn or smother them in a black sack placed in the hot sun for days. Skirting boards reduce insects and fungal diseases. Thinning spreads pests and makes predatory insects more effective (especially against thrips, for example).

Structural cut after harvest

Wait until after harvest to do most of the pruning, especially if you’re “catching up.”

This is simply because no new buds have formed yet: they won’t jeopardize the harvest.

Year-round cut

The rest of the year you can do the trimming as often as you like. Check and adjust the shape every month to avoid severe pruning.

Finger Limes From the Australian Bushfood and Native Medicine Forum This forum offers the most fun you can have without getting fat. It’s worth a visit. Below is an example of some of the conversations that took place on the forum. Regarding finger limes: there are a number of nurseries producing grafted finger limes in north NSW – Judy Viola, near Banaglow; Daley’s Fruit Tree Nursery, near Kyogle; and Forbidden Fruit Tree Nursery near Mullumbimby.

Seedlings are slow. In sensible situations with good soil fertility and water, they can start bearing fruit within 6 years (some people say 12-15 years, but these must be very slow trees!).

From my experience, felling mature trees is slower than budding trees.

Pocirus trifoliata rootstock is slower to mature but appears to produce a better plant than citrus rootstock.

As far as I know, the finger lime produces the widest range of colors of any citrus species: red, purple, black, brown, yellow, green, orange with a diverse range of color combinations with the vesicles (segments). Haven’t seen a striped one yet (look forward to it! – a Rainbow Lime).

Thorny is a problem. It’s a hazard to harvest (wear eye protection if you’re seriously between them). However, I have observed thornless varieties, but don’t know if any are in the current repoitre of available varieties (as far as I know – not).

But on the lighter side, the thorny is great for nesting small bird habitats!

If you’re planting finger lime commercially, use caution. It may be advisable to plant a range of cultivars. It’s still early days and it’s hard to predict which strains will ultimately turn out to be the best. Most varieties are selected from wild genetic stock. but variation in wild stock is excellent, and there is every possibility that budded selections will be suitable if they meet the right criteria.

Seedless to low-seeded wild finger lime varieties have been known since the mid-1990s. This feature is desirable when preparing the fresh vesicles for eating.

The biggest problem with plant diseases seems to be limb death, which is possibly a fungus considering what concerns Sunrise Lime, which has fingerlime genes.

A finger lime from near Mullumbimby was identified in the 1970s as the most resilient citrus plant to Citrophora (citrus dieback). And it seems that seedling finger limes handle heavy soil very well!

Cheers for now, Peter Hardwick. And in response to a request from a grower who had been defoliating fingerlimes during the flowering period: First of all, there is hope because fingerlimes can defoliate and survive, but defoliation can also indicate serious problems.

The finger can flap almost completely and then back up in some situations, especially in tougher conditions when dry. As you’ve seen, finger limes are often green far down the stem. So, finger limes do photosynthesis through the stems and thorns.

I think shedding leaves is a first line of defense in a stressful situation. First of all, leaf drop reduces evaporation loss in dry periods. And they can recover from those leafless periods.

But you say you just moved the plant to a new location and it shed its leaves. I wonder if the change of location shocked the plant. Relocation to a more exposed location in the west. Keep in mind that finger limes are an undergrowth in the wild, although they will tolerate full sun and exposed locations if introduced gradually from shady locations.

If it does, I would tend to move it back to its original position to allow it to recover and then gradually reintroduce it to the new site.

The next possibility, overfeeding over winter (when plants cannot use high nutrients because they are not actively growing) can occur, and leaf fall can be a symptom of overfeeding. So perhaps it’s a good idea to back off from carp applications until the plant starts to show active growth and then use the carp more sparingly, perhaps light applications every month or two during the growing season rather than in the winter

The main concern is that fingerlimes can sometimes have branch dieback, and this can sometimes affect the whole plant over time. Most of the time it’s just a twig here and there. It’s just a particular quirk of finger lime that we have to live with, but I think healthier plants aren’t as susceptible.

Just an afterthought, make sure your potting soil is kept moist. They’re a rainforest plant, and because of the small leaves, observing the wilting in the finger lime isn’t as easy. Peter

finger limes

Finger limes (Citrus australasica) look exactly like they sound: fat little fingers. But as soon as you open the soft shell, the fruit tumbles out like a cascade of tiny pink or creamy pearls.

Typically growing on the edges of Queensland and NSW rainforests, the Fingerlinden thrives as an undergrowth plant in the shade, where it grows to about five feet tall. While rainforest soils tend to be nutrient-rich, finger limes don’t mind if the soil is nutrient-poor and also thrives well in pots.

Getty

As a citrus plant, it is subject to the same pests as the exotic lemons, limes, and oranges, such as aphids, caterpillars, beetles, scales, and locusts.

The tree is not that conspicuous to look at. Its dark green leaves are tiny and, like the lemon tree, have shielding spines up to 25mm long. But like all members of the Rutaceae family, the leaves have many aromatic oil glands that produce a fresh, sweet smell. The small citrus blossoms are mainly white but sometimes pink, and the fruit’s skin comes in a variety of colors including black, green, brown, and purple.

It’s the inside of the shell that creates this excitement. These delicious little juice pearls are like lime caviar. Use them in foods like any lime, e.g. B. in seafood, sauces, jams, desserts or unusual drinks.

Warrigal Greens

A collector’s delight, Warrigal Greens (Tetragonis tetragonioides) spread along the sand dunes of the east coast. Incredibly drought hardy and tolerant of heat and salt spray (unlike English spinach), it makes an ideal leafy groundcover for sandy or degraded soils, but is also adventurous enough to climb a short trellis.

Getty

The leaves are lush, soft, and fleshy, but the seeds are odd, little, hard, horny nuts, so it’s best to soak them for about 24 hours or score them with an emery board before planting at a depth of about 15° cm can be planted. This is best done in spring and summer, or in fall in frost-free areas. Plant them about 60cm apart as they will quickly grow into lush little bushes about 50cm tall and up to two meters wide.

Although an annual in cooler parts of the country, she is a prolific self-seeder, so she’ll keep showing up in your garden. It loves full sun except in the tropics where it prefers a moist, shady spot. You can also grow her in pots and she looks pretty sloshing over the edge of the pot and trailing across your deck or porch. You will pluck the leaves in about 10 weeks and the more you pluck the bushier they will become.

While the leaves are not spinach, they have a strong spinach flavor that is even tastier and saltier, but of course better suited to our continent. Use them for cooking like spinach, silver beets or pak choi. They also make a great pesto when mixed with pine nuts and oil.

But don’t eat them raw. They are very high in oxides, so blanch them in boiling water for about 20 seconds before eating.

They are also very rich in vitamin C. When James Cook landed in Botany Bay in April 1770, he collected the greens and fed them to his crew to prevent scurvy. Botanist Joseph Banks also took samples of it to England, as the first Australian plant to be introduced to that country.

You may also like…

The Essential Guide to Australian Native Plants

How to care for citrus trees

Jelly Belly Australia Day Pavlova

Citrus australasica

Lime caviar really is the perfect way to describe this fruit. When I tried Finger Limes for the first time, I was amazed at how firm the little balls of juice actually are. Only when you chew them in your mouth do they burst open and the spicy taste unfolds. The texture is quite sensational and the flavor more complex than regular limes. The red champagne variety is described as fruity with spicy apple, apricot and berry aromas. I planted my own finger lime last spring after attending a Bush Foods workshop in Sydney with Narelle Happ. Mine is a pink variety called Rainforest Pearl and I can’t wait to get my first fruit!

description

The best known of Australia’s six native citrus species, finger limes are considered gourmet bush food and sought after by top restaurants around the world. They are a marginal rainforest and understory species native to the rainforests of southeast Queensland and northern New South Wales. Finger limes are a hardy shrub to small tree and in cultivation the plants typically grow around 2 to 5 meters and can be pruned to a manageable height for easy harvesting. The leaves are significantly smaller than regular citrus fruits and have thorns and slender, finger-like fruits 6 to 12 centimeters long that come in a range of colors including black, green, red, pink and yellow. Nursery stock is usually grafted onto common citrus rootstock varieties.

growing tips

You can grow your finger lime in the ground or in a container, and they will do well as an ornamental tree, a hedge, or even as a trellis against a fence. They tolerate nutrient-poor soils and need about a quarter of the amount of fertilizer as normal citrus fruits. Apply fertilizer, compost or decomposed animal manure as well as trace elements in the spring. For best results, prepare the soil with organic matter or purchase a good quality potting mix. The soil should be well-drained and have a pH between 5 and 6.5. Water containers every 3 to 4 days, more frequently on hot days.

Find a sheltered spot for your tree with full sun to partial shade and protect your plant from the hot summer afternoon sun. They will tolerate light frosts once established, but if you live in a cold region you can try growing them in a container and moving them around according to the weather.

To maintain tidy and healthy foliage, regular light pruning is recommended and once the plant is established, lightly prune back after harvest. Encourage an open form with about 4 to 6 branches and remove any runners from the rootstock.

Finger limes suffer from similar pests and diseases as other citrus fruits, including aphids, caterpillars, scale insects, bronze orange beetles, mealybugs, and grasshoppers. You also need to be on the lookout for dark brown spots, which could be a fungal disease called melanosis. They are also the natural host of the citrus fruit Bruchophahgus fellis and this can affect the quality and quantity of fruit yield as well as the overall health of the tree. It’s important to check your trees for galls between June and September and snip off any infected branches before the adult wasps emerge, which is usually by the end of August.

harvest

Depending on the variety and climatic conditions, fruiting takes place between December and May. Grafted plants usually begin fruiting in the third year and begin larger yields in the sixth year. The gardener at the nursery told me that I should have fruit within a year or two of planting my tree. There are some differences between different cultivars, with some fruiting several times a year, some fruiting annually and others biennially, so bear this in mind when choosing your cultivar.

Fruits must be picked when fully ripe as they do not ripen from the tree. You can tell when they’re ready to pick as they feel sated and fall off the branch easily. The peels are more delicate than regular citrus and scar easily, so expect some of your crops to show some staining. Avoid picking fruit when it is wet or early in the morning to reduce the risk of damaging the skin from the release of oil from damaged sebaceous glands (oleocellosis).

Picked fruit should be stored between 10 and 20 degrees and have a shelf life of about 3 weeks.

Used

You can use your finger limes with seafood, in salads, drinks, desserts, sauces or jams. Fruit can be frozen whole, and it’s a great way to preserve something for year-round consumption. Or the bark can be dried and crushed to be used as a spice.

To open, cut open the fruit crosswise and squeeze out the lime caviar. The oil from the skin can affect the flavor of the pulp, so it’s important not to get excess oil from the skin onto the pulp.

Where can you buy plants?

Go to a bush feeder or local nursery, or if there isn’t one nearby, speak to your local nursery and ask if they will order one for you. You can also order one from an online nursery.

Have you had success with finger limes?

Read this next: Grow Your Own Warrigal Greens

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Australian finger lime is a thorny variety related to the citrus family that produces delicious lemons. These are very popular with great chefs.

Australian Finger Lime Facts

Name—Microcitrus australasica

Height – 3 to 10 feet (1 to 3 m),

20 feet or 6 meters if not trimmed

Exposure – full sun

Bearing type – grafted

Soil – well drained

Foliage – evergreen

Flowering – March to July

Harvest – November to March

Plant Australian finger lime

Australian finger limes can only be planted in the ground in mildly overwintered areas, as they cannot survive sub-zero temperatures and periods of severe frost can be fatal to them.

They need full sun to bear fruit.

to bear fruit. They like well-drained soil.

. Keep them out of the wind.

. Occasional light frost is possible but not desirable.

is possible but not desirable. Being overcrowded by other trees or plants with developed root systems like banana trees hampers their growth.

Plant your Australian finger lime in pots in colder areas.

Repotting your Australian finger lime

Potted Australian finger limes can’t pull the nutrients they need from the soil.

So the pot and the soil you put in is the only source of food for them to fill up and grow.

So repotting is critical.

Repotting takes place every 2 to 3 years in spring.

. Choose high-quality citrus or potting soil mixes.

Citrus specific or plant soil mix. Check again if there is a hole drilled in the bottom of the pot.

. Place a bed of small pebbles or clay marbles at the bottom of the pot to ensure excellent drainage.

Potted Australian Fingerlinden in winter

Growing Australian Fingerlinden in pots is best. This makes it possible to move the citrus trees to a well-lit place where it does not freeze in winter.

Australian Fingerlinden are not houseplants and cannot tolerate being kept in a heated environment year-round. They need relatively lower temperatures from October to May.

It is important to place them, for example, in an unheated greenhouse where the temperature never drops below 0°C (32°F).

If you are looking for citrus plants that do well with indoor cultivation, check out calamondin trees.

Pruning and caring for Australian Fingerlinden

When cutting finger linden, wear gloves to protect your hands as their thorns are very prickly.

Note: These thorns can also damage fruit in windy areas. Cut off nearby thorns if you want to protect a few specific fruits.

in windy areas. Cut off nearby thorns if you want to protect a few specific fruits. It is best to build a windbreak around the tree.

around the tree. Carry out the heaviest pruning immediately after harvest.

Shoots should be cut off every year. This way, fruits benefit from the greatest amount of juice. Aim for a regular, harmonious shape that is easy to harvest.

Regularly remove dead wood and clean the inner branches of your Australian pineapple to allow light to penetrate the center.

More on how to prune finger lime

Water your Australian Fingerlinden

Australian pineapples will dry out much faster in pots than if planted in the ground, so it’s important that they are watered regularly.

The plant has problems with air that is too dry: it develops brown leaf edges. In this case, try to increase the humidity in the area.

Frequent watering is required in summer, while watering can be reduced in winter.

Water as soon as the soil is dry without overwatering the pots.

Avoid any heat sources such as radiators nearby as this could dry out your tree.

Add citrus-specific fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season to encourage fruiting.

Watch our video with expert instructions on Australian Fingerlinden

Flowering, fruiting and harvesting finger lime

After 3 to 5 years, young trees begin to bear flowers. The harvest increases significantly after 2 years of fruiting.

Usually, trees come from grafted stands to ensure they will grow and bear the expected fruit.

Citrus fingerlimes grown from seed take longer to flower and fruit (4-6 years).

Plants grown from seed may not produce fruit as expected as they are pollinated by other citrus trees.

Not all finger lime varieties produce seeds in their fruit, these are seedless varieties.

Fruit setting for Australian finger lime

Under the very best conditions, only 60-70% of the flowers will “solidify” or begin to turn into fruit.

Pollination is usually the work of bees and other insects.

Honey bees, certain fly species, and even predatory pests like beetles are all involved in flower pollination. Set up a beehive in your garden and a bug hotel to attract them!

certain types of and even those all participating in the pollination of flowers. Set up a beehive in your garden and a bug hotel to attract them! It is possible to gently hand pollinate flowers to try to induce fruiting.

To hand-pollinate fingerlime, a small brush with soft strands is needed:

Simply use the brush to gently stroke the inside of each flower, one at a time

You should notice pollen caught in the brush hairs like dust

Some flowers may be at different stages of maturity, so this may need to be repeated every few days or weekly as new flowers appear

Finger lime fruit candy

It is important to keep the soil around the tree slightly moist to reduce fruit drop.

Plant mulch, especially algae-based mulch, will do the trick.

It also breaks down into much-needed nutrients and trace elements.

Water up to twice a week, especially for potted plants.

However, it is normal for a certain amount of fruit to fall off. Abundance is nature’s way of sharing it with other species while ensuring procreation. It is common for up to half of the set fruit to start falling.

Apart from the water stress mentioned above, a relevant cause for fruit drop is the lack of trace elements in the soil. This is common with pot-grown finger limes.

. This is common with pot-grown finger limes. Fertilizing with citrus-specific fertilizer or fermented tea made from weeds can counteract these deficiencies.

Harvest finger lime

Harvest time is usually from November to March. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, it can take up to 10 months for a finger lime fruit to mature.

Wait until the fruit snaps off the branch easily with a slight twist or tug.

with a slight twist or pull. They will not mature if separated from the tree.

Young trees bear smaller fruits than older ones.

Instead of large baskets, use small, stackable boxes to avoid crushing the delicate fruit.

They ensure that the finger limes ripen best by protecting the tree from frost.

A mature tree, properly pruned, can produce up to 45 pounds (or 20 kg) of fruit per year.

Finger lime fruit color

Finger lime fruit comes in many colors, sometimes even different colors on the same tree!

From wasabi-like greens to ruby ​​reds to pearly whites and purples, it’s a wonder this fruit is only known in limited circles!

Of all the citrus varieties, the finger lime family has the most colorful and diverse fruits.

Diseases common to Australian finger linden

Australian pineapples are more or less susceptible to the same diseases and parasites as all other citrus plants.

Diseases

European Brown Rot – Lemons are still rotting on Australian Fingerlinden

Melanosis – a fungal disease affecting leaves, branches and fruits

pests

Scale insects – whitish masses colonize leaves and sometimes fruit

Aphids – Leaves curl up and fall off

Katydids and grasshoppers often feed on the fruit

Flea seeds are another pest found on leaves

Thrips – usually attack fruit in shady parts of the tree. Fruit is still perfectly edible, but the skin is blotchy and not as appealing.

Fortunately, the common fruit fly is not carried on finger lime. This allows export to new countries without fear of fruit fly contamination. However, great caution should be exercised with the invasive citrus gall wasp.

citrus gall wasp

This wasp, which is only a few millimeters in size, lays eggs in fresh shoots. They direct the growth of the branch to form a gall and then hatch. This pest is currently only found in Australia, although possible sightings in New Zealand suggest it may be spreading further. The best way to deal with this is to cut out gall-infested branches before an adult citrus wasp hatches.

Australian finger lime is actually the original host for citrus gall wasps. However, when planted with other non-native citrus fruits, she prefers to settle on lemon, grapefruit, and tangerine citrus trees instead. Due to longer exposure to the parasite, the native tree has developed a slightly stronger defense mechanism. In fact, not all eggs and larvae of an Australian finger lime can mature.

growth problems

Branches grow in random directions, mostly from the lower stem

Citrus is prone to losing apical dominance. New shoots will emerge from the lower trunk when pruning, rather than branching out from the top of the tree. This results in a difficult-to-train tree that is more susceptible to disease. It is the result of insufficient availability of boron trace elements.

Cooking with finger lime fruits

When ripe, each finger lime fruit contains hundreds of core-sized crystals that are under pressure under the peel. When you slice the fruit, these juicy balls pop out and are ready to nibble or eat!

Just like real caviar, each pearl waits until you bite into it to release the juice inside. If necessary, you can sprinkle some sugar on top to reduce the acidity.

What to cook with finger lime

It is perfect as a wonderful decoration for many dishes, as a topping for salads or as an addition to Tex-Mex dishes!

They also go great with seafood to replace the usual lemon wedges on oysters and mussels. Sushi lovers will love it as a delicious twist. Spread on grilled fish to hydrate it with a delicious touch. Also excellent with poultry and white meat.

Especially with smaller varieties, you can pickle the whole fruit.

Finger lime cocktails are also a real treat.

Finally, when blended or squeezed, the juice works wonders in cakes, ice cream, and flans of all kinds.

The skin is also edible, like that of kumquat, although not as soft. Use it to replace lemon zest in many recipes for a new delicious experience.

fingers holding lime

Fruits will keep for up to a month if kept in the fridge.

It’s also possible to freeze them whole, but you won’t get the same texture as fresh ones. Incorporate them into Asian soups or noodles, jams and other recipes where flavor is more important.

Learn more about the Australian finger lime

Australian Fingerlinden is an exceptional – and expensive – fruit, as it can cost as much as $300 a kilo.

Enclosed in tiny capsules that look like pearls, their juice bursts in the mouth, releasing a burst of flavors like lemon, citrus and grapefruit: this is the “lime caviar” great chefs crave!

Native habitat of finger limes

This particular citrus fruit developed as a shrub in Australian rainforests (Queensland and New South Wales, to be precise). Although part shade is the natural tropical habitat, full sun is needed in temperate climates or it will not fruit well.

Thanks to cross-pollination and different growing conditions, there are many varieties. Most of them are still waiting to be discovered. Wild Fingerlinden are often genetically very different.

Australian finger limes (aka Citrus Australasica) are one of the silliest types of citrus—and we mean that in the best way possible. They resemble short stubby fingers and are nicknamed “caviar limes”. Finger limes are a type of tiny citrus fruit — actually a microcitrus — native to Australia (particularly the coastal region of Queensland and New South Wales). Their name comes from the fact that they are roughly the size and shape of a finger (they reach a maximum length of around 3 inches) and both the skin and flesh come in a rainbow of colors. The pulp (more accurately called the juice sac) of most citrus fruits looks like oblong teardrops, but fingerlime sacs are tiny balls — a tart fruit “caviar” that holds its shape until the balls burst in your mouth (if they’re small Size and wide range of colors wasn’t fun enough for you).

Look for finger limes at specialty stores—you may be able to find finger limes at your local farmers market in some parts of California. So how do you choose the brightest and juiciest? Choose finger limes with light-colored skin. Small brown spots don’t affect flavor, but stay away from specimens with dull, dry, shriveled skin (they’re past their prime). Store finger limes, wrapped in plastic, in the fridge like any other citrus fruit for a few weeks. If you have no luck finding them locally, you can always order them online. Better yet, grow your own with the Via Citrus Fingerlinden from our shop. Shipped direct from Florida, each tree comes with clear care instructions so even novice gardeners can grow beautiful finger limes (provided you have a bright, sunny spot for the plant to thrive).

Cut your finger limes in half and squeeze from the bottom up to release the pulp — anywhere you use a squeeze of lime juice, feel free to substitute a small amount of pulp.

Garnish with abandon

Finger limes are cool, but how exactly do you cook with them? Do you just treat them the same as regular limes or key limes? Somehow! Top oysters, scallops, or sushi (any seafood, really) with finger lime pulp — aka the little globules that resemble caviar inside the lime. Treat your vegetarian friends to nigiri sushi with avocado or papaya and a pinch of lime pulp. Take cocktails to the next level; Try them in a finger lime mojito or an elderflower gin fizz or even a simple gin and tonic. Her sour taste will be appreciated by those who don’t like super sweet cocktails.

Increase a salad

Top off a fruit salad with a sprinkling of finger lime pulp—just leave out all the other citrus fruits and the finger limes will be the star of the show. Or try them in a fancy fruit combination with persimmon and ginger or watermelon and whipped feta. Enjoy them in a hearty salad, too, or substitute finger lime pulp for the citrus juice in a vinaigrette for a flavor boost in every bite.

Shop the story

Add some flair to your desserts

The pulp of the finger lime can be used in a citrus curd or suspended in a cheesecake. Or try finger limes in cookies, ice cream or on cream puffs. It’s not the flavor or texture most people would expect from a lime dessert, which makes it so much more fun to serve to guests.

Let us know your favorite way to use finger limes (or how you’d like to try them) in the comments!

This article was updated by our editors in April 2022.

Finger limes, also known as citrus caviar or caviar limes, are full of little balls of juice called vesicles that look like crystals and are called as such. The crystals are crunchy and will burst when crunched between your teeth and are simply a delightful addition to any productive garden.

This year I had a big crop of finger limes. My small, skinny 1.5 x ½ meter tree has produced almost 50 linden trees. It bloomed in the spring, around September, and was covered with flowers and then set many fruits.

Some fruit fell early in the summer, but after that the fruit just grew and ripened.

The problem was that I didn’t know when they would be ready, so I did some research and experimentation.

Although there isn’t much information here on these wonderful fruits, the NSW Department of Primary Industries has a great fact sheet and there are a number of other websites and forums where you can find information on when they ripen. Just google “Finger Lime” and you’ll get plenty of hits. You can also read some of my other posts on Finger Limes on this blog.

Finger lime fruit does not ripen from the tree and when picked green has a rather pungent, almost bitter taste that is unpleasant. Therefore, it is important to know what to look for when determining whether the fruit is ripe or not.

There is disagreement about when to harvest, some say autumn, some say winter, but the general consensus on when they are ripe is:

• They should feel full and firm.

• Get away from the tree with little or no resistance.

• If the fruit is cut lengthwise in half by severing the thin membrane in the center of the fruit, the caviar-like crystals should ooze out of its skin without touching it.

To test all theories, I made my own observations.

I’ve found that it’s easiest to just touch the fruit, and the ripe fruit falls off the tree easily.

I tried my first fruit at the end of February, it was easy to pick but the balls didn’t ooze out of the shell and the taste was ok but still a bit spicy. At the end of March, a few fruits fell off the tree and the flesh oozed out when cut, so I knew they were ready to go.

Time passed and I didn’t get the fruit I harvested in March and by the first week of April the fruit had changed color from dark olive green to a rusty red, many fruit fell from the tree, the crystal color intensified and the taste was just divine.

So I’m going to the Southern Highlands with the first week of April as the ideal harvest time.

The variety I have has pink flesh, so the skin may have taken on a reddish tint, other varieties may be colored differently.

The size does not seem to indicate maturity as the fruits are between 4cm and 8cm long and all between 1cm and 2cm thick. They all changed color.

Although the weather has been unusually warm and dry this year, which may account for discrepancies in other reports of ripening times, I will certainly wait until late March or early April before attempting to harvest next year.

I hope this has been of help to anyone out there wondering when and how to harvest their finger limes.

Be sure to check out my next blog where I will share some pointers on how to use and store this wonderful culinary addition to my kitchen.

BUY MY COMPLETE GUIDE TO WAXING FINGERLIME HERE

Visit the website for more information on how to start your productive garden.

If you have any questions about Finger Limes citrus trees in general, you can always ask me questions via my Facebook page, Pinterest or Instagram!

Happy Harvest

Kathy