For Most Anchoring Situations Which Is The Best? Trust The Answer

by Ian Fortey Updated on . At boats

Boat Safe is a community supported site. We may earn commissions from links on this page, but we have faith in all recommended products.

Choosing a good anchor line should not be a problem. It’s an anchor line, you just want it to hold an anchor! You don’t want to invest a lot of time or effort in finding the right one. But if you get the wrong one, you’ll know. Poor anchor lines can break too easily. They also knot and tangle. They can be difficult to wind or break in just a season or two. Some work with a windlass or windlass. Others don’t.

Luckily, there are only a few factors you can look out for to ensure you’re getting the right anchor line for your boat. Let’s look at the best anchor rope on the market.

Best Choice Overall 1. Rainier Supply Double Braided Nylon Anchor Rope The Rainier Supply Double Braided Anchor Rope from Amazon Rainier Supply has a lot going for it. It’s nylon, which we think is the best material for rope. It is double braided which means lots of strength. It’s also a great price that tops it all off. You can accommodate this with either a ¼ inch or ⅜ inch diameter. It comes in 50 foot lengths. So if you have a huge yacht this is not the line for you. But for those of us who fish in a jon boat, pontoon boat or just an aluminum fishing boat, this is great. And what if you have a bigger boat or want deeper waters? You can also buy spools of the same 100ft and 150ft line. With a tensile strength of 1574 pounds, this leaves polypropylene lines in the dust. The ¼ line working load is 374 lbs. If you go for the 3/8 inch rope, it’s up to 820 lbs. It comes with a stainless steel thimble and snap hook. This makes attaching your anchor a breeze. It is easy to replace the hook and also attach a chain. When you attach a chain to an anchor rope, the technical name is anchor chain. Because the leash is made of nylon, it can take a lot of abuse. It is resistant to abrasion, UV rays and chemicals. It also won’t bunch up and tangle easily. In fact, it’s very easy to handle, but it can be slippery when wet, so keep that in mind. For the quality and price, you probably won’t find a better boat anchor rope. Rainier is an American company founded by boaters. You can tell this line was designed by people who understand a boater’s needs.

Best Budget Choice 2. SeaSense Hollow Braid Polypropylene Anchor Line Amazon Not everything on your boat has to cost a fortune. The anchor line doesn’t have to break the bank to get the job done. This is where SeaSense comes in with its hollow braid anchor line. For the price, this is perhaps the best anchor line on the market. Constructed from polypropylene, this is lightweight and easy to use. It lies well in the hand and can also be cut quite well. Remember to tape the end and melt it when you cut it. This will prevent it from fraying or falling apart. The line is available in either ¼ inch or ⅜ inch diameter. You can also get it in multiple lengths. Breaking strength is around 850lbs depending on size, and that gives you a safe working load of 90lbs. That doesn’t seem like much and it isn’t. That’s one thing to remember about this line. It is not designed for larger boats. We recommend this line for a small aluminum fishing boat or pontoon boats. Put a 5lb anchor on it and you should be fine. One thing to note about this line is that it doesn’t wind up well. If you try to roll up this row, it will almost certainly immediately fall into a mess. This can make storage difficult. But for the price and convenience, it’s still a solid choice. You don’t need a big, expensive line on a small fishing boat, do you? Keep in mind that direct sunlight will degrade this line. Store it when not in use. Also note that it discolors fairly quickly, but that doesn’t affect how it works.

Best Premium Choice 3. Extreme Max BoatTector Anchor Line Amazon The word “extreme” gets thrown around a lot in advertising. It doesn’t always mean a lot, but in this case it does. Extreme Max have created a really strong line here. If your boat and anchor are not suitable for these smaller lines, look here. If you’re concerned about breaking your anchor line, Extreme Max BoatTector can handle almost any task. Most lines are ⅜ inch in diameter. Larger listings include ½ inch for some brands. Extreme Max can do that, plus they offer a 200-foot ⅝-inch line. This has a working load limit of 1600 lbs. This is not the breaking load, just the safe load limit. The breaking load is 8430 lbs. That’s over 4 tons. This is a serious anchor line. The cord itself is double braided nylon. That means whatever you throw at it, it can probably handle it. It is abrasion resistant and withstands UV radiation and chemicals. The stainless steel thimble resists corrosion and makes attaching to an anchor a breeze. Durability and resilience are unmatched here. The cord is easy to use and doesn’t get tangled easily either. Elasticity and shock absorption are top notch. If you want the best of the best, this line might just be for you. If you don’t need a monster like the ⅝ inch line, Extreme Max also offers ½ inch and ⅜ inch. You can get the line in either white and gold or white and blue. Other colors are also produced, but they are not always available. They are also sometimes a ¾ inch size with a working limit of 2100 lbs. That’s tough enough for some commercial applications.

4. Young Marine Premium Full Braid Anchor Line Amazon Young Marine’s multifilament polypropylene line is available in 100ft or 150ft sizes. It is ⅜ inch in diameter and is a tight braid. Breaking strength is 1565 pounds. That means this is best suited for smaller boats. Young Marine recommends around 16 feet. The stainless steel thimble withstands salt water well. This is because it is corrosion resistant. The line is also able to withstand UV rays and chemicals. Remember that something that is resistant is not “proof”. It can get worse over time. Keep this line out of direct sunlight. And if it’s coated in oil or fuel, make sure you clean it with fresh water. We found this line to be quite flexible. It doesn’t have much stiffness and it rolls and pulls easily. It’s also pretty easy on your hands. Because it is polypropylene, it floats in water. The elasticity is also good.

5. Bang4Buck Braided Line Amazon Bang4Buck tries to live up to their name with variety. You can get lengths of this rope from 50 feet up to 200 feet. It is also available in ½ inch and ⅜ inch sizes. This versatility allows you to get the most out of this rope. The 200ft is probably overkill to be honest. If you’re that deep, you might want something with the strength of nylon. This seems to be more suitable for smaller boats. While not anchor specific, it should be more than a match for most boaters. The half inch size offers a breaking strength of 5850lb. That should definitely be enough for small to medium-sized ships. That gives a working strength of 1170 lbs. Remember this is at ½ inch. They also sell ⅜ inch which won’t be that hard. The rope is made of triple braided polypropylene cord. This means it will be very slick and a little slippery. Watch your knots as you tie them and make sure they are secure. Also, make sure to store it away from the sun when not in use. UV rays degrade polypropylene. If this is laid out all the time, it can break down significantly after a few seasons. The line floats, so it is also good for other purposes such as water skiing. Because it’s polypropylene, you’ll find that it also resists tangles easily.

6. Sgt Knots Anchor Line Amazon Sgt Knots is a good company with a quality product. They are also one of the few that offer you multiple options when purchasing. You can get this rope in multiple sizes, making it a little more versatile than many others. For example, most rope is sold in 100-foot spools. Sgt Knots gives you the option of 100ft, 150ft and even 200ft. Also, you can try ⅜ inch or up to ½ inch at 100 feet for added strength. It all depends on your embedment depth and requirements. The leash itself is made of nylon, which is of the highest quality. Nylon rope performs well and stands up to the elements better than other plastics. The rope is actually three nylon strands twisted together. That means it’s one of the strongest ropes on the market. At the same time, it is flexible and stretchable when you need it. The nylon is abrasion and weather resistant. It also features a stainless steel thimble on the end. You should be able to adapt this to almost any anchor setup you have. Some ropes are useful for multiple purposes, including anchors. However, it was specially developed for this task. It is one of the best anchor ropes on the market. The founder of the company is ex-military and lives in the USA. Sgt Knots is known for providing some of the best customer service in the business. If you have a problem they should be able to help you to your satisfaction

7. Maple Leaf Anchor Rope Amazon This is another super strong nylon rope. This is ideal for medium to larger sized boats. But even a small boat would certainly benefit from this robust line. It is made of three-strand nylon. So this is essentially like having three pieces of nylon rope together. If you’re curious how that affects strength, check out these numbers. It’s a ½ inch line at 100 feet with an incredible breaking strength of 6237 lbs. That means the working strength is 1247 lbs. As you can see, there are some ropes that are similar in size but a fraction of this strength. So this is one of the big guns when you need reliability. Being made of nylon, this rope will not float. That means it’s going straight down with your anchor. It’s unlikely to get stuck in your brace. It’s also resistant to things like mold and UV rays. There’s a reason nylon is so highly recommended for these anchor lines. It comes with a stainless steel thimble. It easily attaches to your anchor and is easy and light to pull in and out of the water with your hands. This rope is also good for some cuts as it has great elasticity. Nylon offers good yield without breaking. That makes it great for a range of tasks, but we definitely think it’s great for anchors.

8. Better Boat Anchor Line Amazon If you want a tough braided nylon anchor line, Better Boat has a solid option. At 100 feet in length and ⅜ inch in diameter, this is a standard size line for most boats. The double-braided nylon construction is abrasion-resistant and as tough as anything else. The supplied stainless steel thimble is corrosion-resistant. It’s also very well secured so you don’t have to worry about it being a weak point in the line. Check out the numbers to see what this line has to offer. They have a working load of 820lb and a breaking load of 4035lb. This is why a double-braided nylon rope is so well suited for use at sea. This is great on a small boat, but it can also handle larger tasks. This line can also be easily adapted from an anchor line to a docking line. The line itself is black, which is aesthetically cool. But don’t worry about losing track. They’ve also woven in reflective threads so you can see it even in low light conditions. It is designed for use with any type of anchor, from a kayak anchor to a fluke or box anchor. The versatility and strength make this ideal. Because it’s nylon, it’s tough on anything you throw at it. Not only is it physically strong, but it can also handle UV rays. It is able to withstand fresh and salt water with ease. And, even better, it’s chemical resistant. If exposed to gasoline or oil, it can be cleaned and stored. Remember to get it out and clean it as soon as possible. Better Boat is an American family business. If you have any problem with their products, they are very easy to reach out to. They also respond promptly. So if customer service is as important to you as the product itself, give it a try.

9. Airhead Anchor Bungee Amazon Give credit to Airhead, they found a way to make rope fun. Once upon a time all anchor ropes were boring, white line. And sure, it’s not a toy, but this anchor bungee is pretty cool nonetheless. It’s also bright enough that you probably won’t lose sight of it too easily. One of the coolest features of the anchor bungee is that you can tie your boat to it. Throw the bungee and anchor overboard when you come ashore. Then, when you reach the shallow water, jump out. Attach a leash to a beach tip on the shore. This keeps your boat safe off a rocky shore. This allows the line to stretch, allowing your boat to float safely in waters where it will not be damaged. But it doesn’t get out of your way either. The bungee absorbs the shock that would release an anchor with a regular line. As a normal anchor rope, it is ideal for shallower waters. It stretches from 14 feet to 50 feet. So you don’t take it with you into the deep sea. However, if you want to stop closer to the coast, this is a good choice. The galvanized shackle and carabiner are strong and easy to use. The bungee cord is made of polypropylene with a tensile strength of 2500lb. So it can withstand a certain weight without hesitation.

10. Attwood Solid Braid Anchor Line Amazon Attwood made a strong and durable MFP anchor line here. MFP stands for Multifilament Polypropylene. That is, it consists of a large number of very thin fibers that are woven together. That makes it stranger and more durable than similar ropes. The rope comes in a 100 foot spool. It is also ⅜ inch in diameter. The line is very flexible but floats. Some people prefer a line that floats, some don’t, so keep that in mind. It is also marked as UV resistant. Keep in mind that polypropylene is less UV resistant than other synthetic cords. There have been some complaints from previous owners that the line has fallen apart. Some said they “turned to dust” after a season or two. That’s UV exposure. Keep the leash safe and out of the sun when not in use and it will last much longer. For the price you should still get something good out of the rope. Based on calculations, the safe strength of this rope should be around 189 lbs. That means you won’t want to use it on a larger boat. However, for a small boat this is ideal. It is lightweight and easy to store. It’s also easy on your hands if you have to pull it in. Also, since it floats, it’s good to use as an emergency leash if you need to.

11. TRAC Outdoor Anchor Line Amazon →

Bass Pro → TRAC Outdoor is known for manufacturing high quality and reliable products. Your anchor rope is no exception. This rope is made of braided polypropylene. It comes in a 100 foot spool. The rope diameter is 0.2 inch. The light blue color makes it highly visible in murky water and low light conditions. This is also due to the woven reflective tracer patches. The ends also have a so-called “rock guard” sleeve. This helps protect against heavy abrasion and wear. This extends the life of your rope significantly. Combined with a chain, you can expect this rope to last a long time. It’s made of polypropylene, so it can handle salt and fresh water with ease. They also have a loop and shackle included. The breaking strength is given as 700 lbs. That means your safe working capacity is around 140 lbs. That should make this more than strong enough for the average fishing boat. The company that makes TRAC is located in North Carolina. They offer good customer service. If you have a problem they are usually quick to respond. Even so, you should examine the shackle and splice of your line closely. Some previous buyers have had issues with the line separating and losing its anchor. It’s not common, but more than one person has complained about it. Because of this, you might want to tweak things when they don’t seem solid to you.

Choosing the best boat anchor rope

There’s more that goes into choosing the best anchor rope than you might think. Not only do you need to be aware of the length and width, but also a number of other factors for the right anchor line. Can ropes hold up in salt water? What if it is exposed to chemicals? Is it okay to be exposed to UV rays for a long time? How can it handle rough seas? There’s a lot more to consider than newcomers might think. Let’s look at what kind of anchor rope you need.

Types of anchor line material

There are actually several types of materials used to make boat anchor lines. Which one you choose depends on a few factors.

Nylon anchor cable

The most common types of rope are made of nylon. Nylon rope has a lot to offer, which is why it is so common. For example, nylon is very strong for its size. It doesn’t have much buoyancy, which is obviously important. The elasticity is also ideal for anchor ropes. Nylon ropes can stretch up to 40%. Overall it’s pretty light too. It easily withstands salt water, not to mention chemicals.

We believe nylons make the best anchor lines for all of these reasons. And fact is, it’s everywhere. It’s the easiest to find. That also makes it a smart choice. Every shipping shop stocks nylon rope.

Remember that nylon rope loses strength when wet. It will actually reduce strength by up to 25%. Watch out for the words “up to” here, though. Not all nylon rope is of equal quality and some are stronger than others.

Polyester anchor rope

Polyester rope is not too different from nylon. The big differences here are strength and stretch. Nylon is definitely superior. That doesn’t mean polyester isn’t strong, but it’s not quite as strong for the same size. However, when wet, polyester does not lose strength like nylon.

The stretch factor is more of an issue. Again, it’s not drastically different. But the stretch in nautical rope helps absorb shock. If you choose polyester instead of nylon, you may feel more impact. It is also more prone to chafing than nylon rope.

Polyester tolerates sunlight better than nylon. Nylon is fine, and as long as you take care of it properly, it should be fine. But polyester is less affected.

Polypropylene anchor cable

This is the cheapest type of rope in most cases. It can provide adequate strength and elasticity. However, polypropylene does not handle sunlight well. UV radiation really damages such a rope. As a result, it will degrade if it sits in the sun too much. This can become a real problem after a while.

Polypropylene cord tends to be slippery. It’s not good for tying things up very well, and it can cut. If you try to pull this leash in an emergency, you could cut your hands. There’s a reason nylon is so much more popular.

We do not recommend using polypropylene rope as an anchor line on larger boats. There are just too many downsides. That said, because it’s cheap and it floats, save it for a lifeline instead if you already have some.

For smaller boats this can be a good choice. The overall stress on your anchor probably won’t cause too many problems. Just remember to store it properly from the sun!

Manila anchor lines

Manila is a robe made from natural fibers. Unlike synthetic lines, this one shrinks a little when it gets wet. You will still see large ships using Manilatau today. That’s because it’s remarkably strong. But compared to synthetic lines, you’re better off with nylon. Nylon can do the job better with an overall smaller rope. But if you want a natural line then you would use this one. It’s the best overall, and it has that authentic old-fashioned sailor appeal. Remember that to match the strength of nylon, you need a larger manila rope. And Manila can go bad if not stored properly.

Cut anchor lines

Synthetic cords tend to fray when cut. They will unwind into hundreds of tiny, hair-like strands. These can unwind over time and tear the rope into pieces. Also, it will cause significant power loss when this happens. That’s why you need to address it as soon as you cut the line.

Since these ropes are synthetic, they will melt if you heat them. This is ideal for fixing those frays. Once you’ve cut a line you can use a special tool to essentially cauterize the end and prevent the stray, frayed bits. It’s just as easy to use an open flame. You can even carefully use a lighter to melt just the end of the line. This will melt the frayed bits into a firm end that’s easy to work with.

anchor rope construction

When choosing an appropriate anchor line, you have two main options. These are braided anchor ropes and twisted or twisted anchor ropes. Both have pros and cons worth considering. There really isn’t a right or wrong choice. It is similar to comparing anchors or props. You have many options and all of them can get the job done.

Twisted Rope: You can find twisted rope at pretty cheap prices. This is usually cheaper than braided rope. The downside is that it tends to kink a bit. However, it offers a good amount of stretch. Splicing this rope is pretty easy too. A twisted nylon anchor line would still be a good choice.

Braided Rope: Pound for pound, this rope is usually stronger than twisted. Same length and anchor line diameter, braided is more robust. It’s also less harsh if you hand-feed it. It is flexible but not necessarily as stretchy as a twisted rope. It might also be difficult to splice this type of rope.

anchor rope length

The correct length of rope is important to ensure your anchor works properly. Too little and your anchor won’t even touch the ground. Too much and you’ll be floating everywhere. They can tangle and tangle and cause a lot of trouble. But you’ll hear a lot of different ideas about how much rope is the right amount.

If you google it now you could find 3 different websites with 3 different opinions. In fact, that’s exactly what we did. One side said 7 feet for each foot of depth. Another said 8 feet. One said 10 feet.

There are many variables. If you are in very choppy waters you may want more rope. Likewise if you are not sure about the soil conditions. We think 8 feet of rope per foot in the water is the best ratio. But even that can change depending on the conditions.

Width of the anchor rope

It’s easy for a newbie to miss this part. Length is something you obviously want to worry about. But the thickness of the rope is also extremely important. Too thin and your rope will snap like a twig. You definitely don’t want that. But how do you know if it’s thick enough?

A good rule of thumb is to add ⅛ inch for every 9 feet of boat length.

Up to 9 feet = ⅛ inch

Up to 18 feet = ¼ inch

Up to 27 feet = ⅜ inch

Up to 36 feet = ½ inch

In general, bigger is always better. If you have a 16 foot boat, ⅜ inch is a good idea. Although technically it could get away with ¼ inch.

Strength of boat anchor rope

So you don’t want a rope that breaks. Just like a fishing line, if it breaks it is useless to you. But how do you determine the strength of the boat anchor rope?

The rope strength is all based on a standard. This standard is natural manila rope. We compare other types of rope to Manila to see how tough it is. This tells you the safe working load of a rope. So you need to know the size of the anchor rope to find out.

You can calculate the strength factor of synthetic lines with a simple formula. The square of the line’s circumference multiplied by 900 lbs times the comparison factor of this line.

(Circumference x 2) x 900 lbs.

Now this is where it gets a little bit tricky to determine the perimeter. All of the rope sizes we list are diameters. The diameter is the distance across a circle when you cut it neatly in half. But the perimeter is the distance around the circle. However, we can use the diameter to calculate the circumference.

Circumference = diameter X pi (3.14)

Let’s do a practical example. You have a ¼ rope. So to calculate the circumference, we multiply that by pi (3.14) and we get 0.25 x 3.14 = 0.785. Then we multiply that by 900 pounds and we get 706.5 pounds. That is the breaking strength of a manila rope of this size.

If you have synthetic line, you need to include the comparison factor. Let’s look at these.

Nylon = 2.5

Polyester = 2

Polypropylene = 1.4

So if you had ¼ inch nylon anchor line, you would multiply your number by 2.5.

Your new formula would be .785 x 900 x 2.5 = 1766.25 lbs. That is the breaking load of a ¼ nylon anchor cable.

The breaking strength of a rope is more of a rule of thumb than a guide set in stone. Remember someone tested this in a lab. In the real world things can go wrong. Perhaps your rope is older or frayed. Maybe it will damage something. It’s difficult to say.

Another thing to remember is that this number is for a solid piece of rope. If you have a knot or splice, it will decrease. These vulnerabilities are unpredictable. Just in terms of how they will affect breaking strength.

Safe workload

This number is often given together with the breaking strength. Safe working load is the weight that your cable anchor can safely handle. It will be significantly lower than the breaking strength. If you push your anchor rope to breaking point, one thing will happen. The rope will break. Probably much sooner than you think. That’s because, as mentioned earlier, there can be mitigating factors.

Knots and splices significantly reduce breaking strength. UV rays weaken the rope. If it has been exposed to temperature changes or abrasion in the past, it will also reduce strength. So a rope with a breaking strength of 1766 lbs on paper can actually break at 1200 lbs. Or even less.

To be safe, the rule of thumb for a safe working load is ⅕ or 20%. That means if your line has a breaking load of 1766.25 lbs, your safe working load is 353.25 lbs.

What about anchor chain?

You will often see chains and ropes being sold or even used together. Some people think chain is a better option, others think it’s worse. But what about both? This is not unusual at all and actually serves a good cause.

Many anchors are attached to chains on the anchor itself. The chain extends a short length and then the nylon rope is attached to it. So why choose a chain section and then use a rope? There is a very practical reason for all this.

The seabed is an unpredictable place. You don’t know what’s beneath you when you weigh anchor. It could of course be mud. But there might be old trees, rocks or rubbish. If your anchor hits something solid and rough, it’s no big deal. But if you have a piece of rope on it, that could be a problem. Over time, even the toughest rope can wear out. Wenn es weiter kratzt oder bröckelt oder anderer Müll, fängt es an auszufransen.

Wir empfehlen eine Kettenlänge, die halb so groß ist wie das von Ihnen gewählte Seil. Das bezieht sich auf den Durchmesser. Überprüfen Sie für die Länge der Kette Ihre Bootslänge. Sie möchten, dass es ungefähr so ​​lang ist wie Ihr Boot. Dann können Sie das Seil mit einem Schäkel mit der Kette verbinden, es sei denn, Sie haben eine Ankerwinde.

Ein Fuß Kette für einen Fuß Boot ist unter den meisten Bedingungen ideal. Dies kann jedoch angepasst werden. In rauem Wasser können Sie einen Fuß Kette für jeweils 6 Fuß Seil verwenden. Dies hilft, einen guten Winkel beizubehalten. Es kann jedoch schwer vorherzusagen sein, ob und wann Sie dies benötigen. Und nicht jedes Boot hat die Kapazität, viel Kette zu speichern.

Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie eine Kette auswählen, die für diesen Job bestimmt ist. Eine Fahrradkette von Home Depot wird nicht funktionieren. Sie benötigen eine verzinkte Kette in Marinequalität. Es schont nicht nur Ihr Seil, sondern macht auch das Ankern effizienter. Die Kette ist viel schwerer als ein Seil, daher wird Ihr Anker direkt nach unten fallen. Das macht es auch weniger wahrscheinlich, irgendeine Art von Drift zu erleiden.

Wenn Sie ein größeres Boot haben, ist normalerweise mehr Kette eine gute Idee. Die Kette wird diesen Ankersatz besser halten.

Liniensicherheit

Eine Sache, an die Sie sich immer erinnern müssen, ist, um die Ankerleine des Bootes herum sicher zu sein. Bootsanfänger sind sich oft nicht bewusst, wie gefährlich Leinen sein können. Wenn Sie Gäste auf Ihrem Boot haben, stellen Sie sicher, dass sie wissen, was sicher ist und was nicht.

Wenn Sie eine Linie unter Spannung haben, sollte sich niemand innerhalb von 45 Grad dieser Linie auf beiden Seiten davon befinden. Stellen Sie immer sicher, dass jeder auf dem Boot dies weiß.

Überprüfe deine Knoten immer doppelt. Dies gilt insbesondere, wenn Sie synthetische Schnüre verwenden. Alle synthetischen Materialien sind bis zu einem gewissen Grad rutschig. Sie können leicht aus Knoten rutschen, wenn sie nicht sicher gemacht werden. Sobald Sie also einen Knoten an Ort und Stelle haben, überprüfen Sie ihn erneut, um sicherzugehen.

The final result

Sicherheit hat immer oberste Priorität. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie die richtige Leine für Ihr Boot auswählen. Es muss stark genug und lang genug sein, um die Arbeit zu erledigen. Bewahren Sie es immer an einem sicheren Ort auf, um Stolpergefahren zu vermeiden. Dies wird auch einen großen Beitrag dazu leisten, dass es mehrere Saisons hält.

Bleiben Sie wie immer gesund und haben Sie Spaß

Every anchor has to be attached to the boat somehow. In this article, we discuss everything you ever needed to know about anchor rides.

Video: Everything you need to know about Anchor Rode

The following video answers many of the topics discussed here, although the article goes into more detail (so it’s worth reading!).

What is anchor ride?

Rode simply refers to the line and/or chain that connects the anchor to your boat. (Believe it or not, rode is not a typo!)

Ideally, the line for any anchor setup should consist of both chain and rope. The chain should be at the end with the anchor. Why use both chain and rope? First, it prevents the nylon rope from wearing out by rubbing against the bottom of the seabed as the boat rocks. Second, because the chain is heavy, it keeps the rod on the bottom so the pull on the anchor is horizontal, reducing the chance of your anchor coming loose.

What type of rope should I use? Nylon, Polyester or…?

For most boaters, nylon is the best rope for anchoring. Nylon has many advantages for anchoring, including:

It is elastic and therefore offers good shock absorption

Light and flexible

good strength

The anchor rope most commonly found in shipping stores

it sinks

Nylon anchor line is lightweight, flexible, strong and provides resilience, which helps mitigate peak loads on your anchor and boat. Unfortunately, the mere fact that nylon stretches means it generates heat and eventually breaks and needs to be replaced. However, you want a strong rope that will absorb the shock of waves and will sink, not float. Nylon goes with all of these things.

What is the difference between braided and twisted rope?

In our experience, for most recreational boaters, the difference between using twisted anchor line or braided anchor line comes down to preference and taste. Both are excellent choices for an anchor rope, but there are some subtle differences between these two types of rope.

braided rope

PROs

Less stiff and more flexible

Often stronger than twisted rope

Gentler on the hands

Disadvantages

Difficult to splice

Less stretch than twisted rope

Twisted rope

PROs

Pretty easy to splice

Generally cheaper

Has more stretch than braided

Disadvantages

Tends to kink or snag

Stiffer and less flexible

How much anchor rope do I need and what size?

One of the questions we get asked the most is “How much anchor rope and/or chain do I need?” There are a few rules of thumb to consider when choosing how much rope and chain you need.

You should have 8 feet of rope for every 1 foot of water you are anchoring in. Your rope should be 1/8 inch rope diameter per 9 foot boat.

So that means a 28 foot boat would need at least a 3/8″ or 1/2″ diameter rope. Rope, like anchors, is one of those things where bigger is usually better.

When choosing rope, nylon is the clear favorite as it is elastic and relatively strong.

How much anchor chain do I need and what size?

In addition to the rope, you should also have a smaller amount of chain between the rope and the anchor. This chain prevents your rope from rubbing against the seabed and also creates the optimal angle between your rod and the seabed. The general rule of thumb is that you need about 1 foot of chain for every 1 foot of boat. So a 30ft boat would need a 30ft chain. However, certain limitations such as weight and locker space often do not allow for this ideal chain length. In these situations you should have at least 10-15 feet of anchor chain for the reasons above. For boaters anchoring in extreme conditions and/or for extended periods, you will need approximately 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope. The reason for the different requirements is that, theoretically, 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope achieves an optimal angle between the pole and the seabed.

What kind of chain do I need? (I don’t use windlass)

If you don’t use a windlass, your life is easy! Any chain that you can buy from a marine store that follows the sizing rules above should be adequate. A hardware store chain can sometimes be sufficient, but you should always be aware of the breaking strength and make sure that it is galvanized. If you are not using a windlass you can simply attach your rope to your anchor with a shackle in between (ideally your rope will have an eyelet and/or thimble on one end to make it easier to attach a shackle.

What kind of chain do I need? (I use a windlass)

When using a windlass your choices are limited and you must only use the type and size of chain specified by the windlass manufacturer. Usually this chain type is a G4 or BBB chain. Don’t have your windlass manual? We have an article here that lists the type and size of chain required for the most common sizes of windlass. Windlass chain is a whole different subject and in fact here we have another article on windlass chain. If you use a windlass remember that you will need to splice your rope to your chain as a shackle going through your windlass is bad news. (You can also hook the shackle around your windlass when the time comes, but that’s a hassle!) You can buy a pre-spliced ​​rope and chain package, or splice your own.

“A Firm Anchor,” Ensign, Apr. 2014, 4–6

Not long ago I had the opportunity to sail on a great ship along the beautiful coast of Alaska, USA. As the captain prepared for the ship’s overnight stay in a secluded, pristine bay, he carefully assessed the location and circumstances, such as: B. the course of the tides, the water depth and the distance to dangerous obstacles. When he was satisfied, he dropped the anchor, keeping the ship safe and anchored and allowing the passengers to marvel at the spectacular beauty of God’s creations.

Looking at the shore, I began to see that the ship drifted almost imperceptibly with the slightest amount of wind and current. Despite this, the ship remained firmly and persistently in a fixed circle defined by the length of the anchor line and the strength of the anchor.

The captain had not kept the anchor on the ship, so that it could only be thrown out if a storm should come. No, he had anchored the ship as a precaution and prevented the ship from entering unsafe waters or slowly drifting aground while passengers and crew felt safe.

As I pondered this scene, it occurred to me that I had never flown an airplane, although that wasn’t an opportunity for a parable.

Why We Need Anchors The purpose of an anchor is to keep a ship safe and secure in a desired location or to control the ship in inclement weather. However, to achieve these vital goals, just having an anchor is not enough. The anchor must be solid, reliable and deployed correctly at the right time and place. Individuals and families also need anchors. Adversity can come as a great storm, throwing us off course and threatening to throw us against the rocks. But sometimes we are also in danger when all seems safe – the winds are soft and the water is smooth. In fact, we can be in greatest danger when we are adrift and the movement is so slight that we hardly notice it.

The Gospel Is Our Anchor Anchors must be solid, strong, and well maintained to be ready when needed. In addition, they must be fixed to a foundation that can support the weight of opposing forces. Of course, the gospel of Jesus Christ is such an anchor. It was prepared by the Creator of the universe for a divine purpose and intended to provide security and guidance to His children. After all, what is the gospel apart from God’s plan to redeem His children and bring them back into His presence? Knowing that it is in the nature of all things to drift away, we must plant our anchors firmly on the foundation of gospel truth. They are not to be lightly lowered onto the sands of pride or barely touching the surface of our beliefs. This month we have the opportunity to hear from God’s servants at a general conference of the Church. Their words, along with the scriptures and promptings of the Spirit, provide a sure and stable foundation of eternal values ​​and principles to which we can attach our anchors so that we can remain steadfast and secure in life’s struggles and trials. The ancient prophet Helaman said: “On the rock of our Redeemer, the Christ, the Son of God, ye must build your foundation; that when the devil shall send forth his mighty winds, yea, his arrows in the whirlwind, yea, when all his hail and mighty tempest shall strike upon thee, he shall have no power over thee to drag thee down into the abyss of misery and endless woe because of the rock on which you are built, which is a sure foundation, a foundation upon which men building cannot fall” (Helaman 5:12).

This page requires JavaScript. Your browser either does not support JavaScript or you have deactivated it.

For this page to work properly, please enable JavaScript and then refresh the page.

It is important to have the right anchor and cable for your boat. If you don’t, rough winds and water can cause drag and your boat to drift. This is especially dangerous if you sleep or swim nearby. Make sure your boat is well anchored and the swivel is properly locked, and look for signs of snagging. The first step in anchoring is choosing the right anchor. Despite claims to the contrary, there is no single anchor design that is best in all conditions.

anchor types

When choosing an anchor, its holding power and the type of seabed it will be used on must be considered. In addition, the anchor must be the right size depending on the pleasure boat. It is best to have a heavier anchor than necessary as a lighter anchor will not keep the pleasure craft in place in poor weather conditions.

Overnight anchor line length requirements

Regardless of the type of anchor, it must be fitted with at least 15m of cable, rope or chain, or any combination thereof, and carefully fastened to the bow of the boat. Transport Canada requires a minimum length of 5 to 10 times the water depth when dropping the anchor line on a pleasure boat. Neither rope nor chain are fundamentally superior. They each have their advantages and disadvantages. For small boats, however, it is advisable to attach an elastic element such as a bending or shock absorber to the anchor line in order to absorb any sudden impacts that may occur.

How do you anchor a boat?

Career 25 tips for anchoring an event

Anchoring an event is a big responsibility. There are certain characteristics that make an anchor unique from its contemporaries, such as: B. Fluent speech, clarity, humor, self-confidence and extensive knowledge of the environment. From his point of view, an anchor must be precise and to the point. Confidence is the most prestigious key to running the show successfully. So here are 25 tips for anchoring an event

Always start with a smile. A Power Begins: It’s a good idea to begin your opening with powerful, influencing words. Gratitude is always the best place to start. (Thanks, Appreciation, Affirmation, Recognition, Respect, etc.) Connect with the audience. Being prepared is an act of love and intelligence. Dress appropriately, look good. Know who you are talking to. Tell a personal story. The words should be clear and distinct. Breathe evenly and deeply. Avoid cold drinks or spicy foods before/during your time on stage. Never admit to exhaustion such as fatigue, illness, etc. Pay very close attention to your body language and facial expressions. Avoid moving your hands too much when speaking or constantly changing position. Stay in the lead as long as you’re on stage. Go among the audience: Yes! This would be an excellent way not only to connect with the audience, but you will also make a name for yourself. Presence of Mind: The presenter must show up for the time delay and immediately come up with ideas to keep the audience engaged. Believe people are cheering you on: nobody likes it when someone bombs. They really want you to win. Be short but effective. Even eye contact: The moderator is the master of the stage. When you speak, address everyone in front of you. Don’t just look in a certain direction or at a select few people. Enlist the help of one person for proper coordination. Innovations are welcome! Instead of a regular, typical flow of events, a twist in the story keeps winning hearts. You could even break into a song or dance, mimic a celebrity, the list is endless! Always write down a few backup lines in case someone is new or uninvited. Collaborate with co-hosts: When hosting with a partner, it’s important to work together and agree on a script. Keep your weapons steady in case you slip or fumble. All’s Well That Ends Well: A great show needs a great ending. As a traditional closing speech, you first thank the dignitaries and then the audience and wish them a nice day.

Related article: How do I start the tutorial while docked?

Anyone who has kept a boat at anchor for more than fifteen minutes knows that this is not as stable a process as it seems. The boat shifts. The winds change. Other boats come and go. This is why anchoring at night can be so unsafe. If you have to do this, make sure you understand everything that goes into it and take the right precautions. Here are some helpful tips.

What changes when you anchor at night

Setting an anchor during the day is a straightforward process. They set the anchor, monitor the boat and raise the anchor again when you need it. You lose touch with the slow changes happening around you. However, if you set an anchor at night and do not monitor it with due care, you may not notice the following changes that could affect the process:

position and current . Is there a current affecting the position of your boat? Even on remote lakes, the wind factor alone can change that.

. Is there a current affecting the position of your boat? Even on remote lakes, the wind factor alone can change that. ebb and flow of the tide. Anchoring at high tide can sometimes mean getting stuck if you leave the boat unattended.

. Anchoring at high tide can sometimes mean getting stuck if you leave the boat unattended. Changing boat conditions – i. H. traffic from other boats. Traffic is an ever-changing situation, which means you need to stay on top of things. Are you in a main traffic channel without even knowing it?

– i.e. H. traffic from other boats. Traffic is an ever-changing situation, which means you need to stay on top of things. Are you in a main traffic channel without even knowing it? Changing wind conditions. Changing winds can create more drag on your boat than you might think. Faster wind or changing wind conditions can take your boat to a completely different location than planned if you don’t supervise your boat.

Rules for anchoring at night

Many inexperienced boat owners may view anchoring as a passive activity. You set the anchor and you can take your mind off it, right? Unfortunately, this is not the case. Boaters are often required by local law to have someone monitor the status of the boat while it is at anchor. In the case of a night anchor, that meant taking turns keeping watch. The Coast Guard recognizes that not every ship is on the lookout while anchored, but also cautions skippers and crews who sleep through the night.

Although there are modern alarms that can help with boat surveillance, the Coast Guard also states that these are not enough.

How to anchor at night

Sometimes at night you find yourself in a situation where you need to anchor. It helps to be prepared. Here’s what you need to know:

Take a full inventory. Keep track of tides, wind, traffic and changing conditions. The more you know, the better you can position your boat in the right place.

. Keep track of tides, wind, traffic and changing conditions. The more you know, the better you can position your boat in the right place. Put someone on guard. Supervision is necessary as conditions can and will change even with an anchor.

. Supervision is necessary as conditions can and will change even with an anchor. Check back regularly. If you’re the captain of a boat, regularly check the anchor point, chains, and any changes in conditions—even if you’re not the one keeping watch.

. If you’re the captain of a boat, regularly check the anchor point, chains, and any changes in conditions—even if you’re not the one keeping watch. leave your light on You want to be as visible as possible at night so other boats can see you.

. You want to be as visible as possible at night so other boats can see you. know the rules Do you want your boat to be in this area at night?

The flexibility of anchoring at night gives you freedom as a boat owner. But like any freedom, it comes with responsibility. Know the local rules, know your situation and be prepared to monitor the boat at all times.

care of your boat

To keep your boat in the best possible condition, be sure to browse the boat cleaning, restoration and maintenance products available here at BoatLIFE!

Device for securing a watercraft to the bottom of a body of water to prevent the vehicle from drifting

Stockless ship’s anchor and chain on display

An anchor is a device, usually metal, used to tie a ship to the bottom of a body of water to prevent the craft from drifting due to wind or currents. The word derives from the Latin ancora, which itself comes from the Greek ἄγκυρα (ankȳra).[1][2]

Anchors can be either temporary or permanent. Permanent anchors are used when creating a mooring and are rarely moved; A specialist service is usually required to move or service them. Ships carry one or more temporary anchors, which can be of different designs and weights.

A sea anchor is a braking device that is not in contact with the seabed and is used to minimize a ship’s drift relative to the water. A drogue is a braking device used to slow or steer a ship traveling ahead of a storm in a following or overtaking sea, or when crossing a bar in a breaking sea.

Overview [ edit ]

A stockless anchor is broken out

Anchors achieve holding power either by “hooking” into the seabed or by mass or a combination of both. Permanent moorings use large masses (usually a concrete block or slab) resting on the seabed. Semi-permanent mooring anchors (e.g. mushroom anchors) and large marine anchors derive a significant portion of their holding power from their mass while also snagging or embedding in the ground. Modern anchors for smaller vessels have metal fins that latch onto rocks on the bottom or bury themselves in the soft seabed.

The ship is attached to the anchor by the line (also called cable or chain). It can be made of rope, chain or a combination of rope and chain. The ratio of rod length to water depth is called girth (see below).

keep ground [ edit ]

Holding ground is the area of ​​seabed that supports an anchor, and thus the ship or boat attached to it.[3] Different types of anchors are designed to hold in different types of ground.[4] Some floor materials hold up better than others; for example, hard sand holds well, shell very poorly.[5] Stopping place can be polluted with obstacles.[5] An anchorage can be chosen as a stopping ground.[6] If the ground is poor, only the weight of an anchor counts; with a good grip, it can dig in and the holding power can be significantly higher.

history [edit]

Evolution of the anchor[ edit ]

Anchors come in a variety of shapes, types and sizes to suit different conditions, functions and vessels

The earliest anchors were probably rock, and many rock anchors dating at least to the Bronze Age have been found.[7] Pre-European Maori waka (canoes) used one or more hollowed out stones tied together with flax rope as anchors. Many modern berths still rely on a large rock as the primary element of their design. However, using sheer mass to withstand the forces of a storm only works as a permanent anchorage. A large enough rock would be almost impossible to move to a new location.

The ancient Greeks used stone baskets, large sacks filled with sand, and logs filled with lead. According to Apollonius Rhodius and Stephen of Byzantium, anchors were formed of stone, and Athenaeus states that they were also sometimes made of wood. Such anchors held the ship to the ground solely by their weight and friction.

Fiddled anchors[ edit ]

Anchor of the ladby ship

Iron was later introduced for the construction of anchors, and an improvement was made by forming them with teeth or “leeches” to fasten themselves in the ground. This is the iconic anchor shape most familiar to non-sailors.

This form has been used since ancient times. The Roman Nemi ships of the 1st century AD used this shape. The Viking ladby ship (probably 10th century) used a flunked anchor of this type made entirely of iron.

Admiralty Anchor[ edit ]

An Admiralty Pattern Anchor; When the stem is deployed on the seabed, it will push one of its tail fins into the bottom

The Admiralty Pattern anchor or simply “Admiralty”, also known as the “Fisherman”, consists of a central shaft with a ring or shackle for attaching the rod (the rope, chain or cable that connects the vessel and the anchor). At the other end of the shank are two arms that carry the leeches, while the shank is attached to the shackle end at a ninety degree angle to the arms. When the anchor lands on the bottom, it will generally fall over with its arms parallel to the seabed. When the rope is loaded, the shaft digs into the ground, tilting the anchor until one of the flukes catches and digs into the ground.

The Admiralty Anchor is a totally independent reinvention of a classic design as seen in one of the Nemi ship’s anchors. This basic design remained unchanged for centuries, with the most notable changes being overall proportions and a switch from wooden stocks to iron stocks in the late 1830s and early 1840s.

Since there is always a fluke sticking out of the set anchor, there is a great tendency for the rod to foul the anchor when the ship rocks due to wind or current changes. When this happens the anchor can be pulled out of the ground and in some cases may need to be pulled up to be re-set. Numerous modifications were attempted in the mid-19th century to alleviate these problems and improve holding power, including single-arm mooring lines. The most successful of these patent anchors, the Trotman anchor, introduced a pivot at the center of the crown where the arms connect to the stem, allowing the “idle” upper arm to fold against the stem. In use, the lower arm can fold against the shaft, tipping the tip of the fluke upwards so each fluke has a tripping palm at its base to hook onto the underside as the folded arm is dragged across the seabed, thereby the downward arm unfolds until the tip of the caudal fin can touch the ground.[8]

Handling and storing these anchors requires special equipment and procedures. Once the anchor is pulled up to the fairlead, the ring end is pulled up to the end of a timber protruding from the bow known as the cat’s head. The crown of the anchor is then pulled up with a heavy pulley until a tail fin can be hooked over the rail. This is referred to as the anchor’s “cats and fishing”. Before dropping the anchor, the fishing process is reversed and the anchor is dropped from the end of the cathead.

Stockless anchor[ edit ]

The stockless anchor’s ease of stowage and handling became widespread, although it did not hold as well as the Admiralty pattern from which it was derived

The effect of a stockless anchor being set

The stockless anchor, patented in England in 1821, [9] was the first major innovation in anchor design in centuries. Although their holding power-to-weight ratio is significantly lower than Admiralty pattern anchors, their ease of handling and stowage aboard large ships led to near-universal acceptance. Unlike the laborious stowage methods of previous anchors, stockless anchors are simply hoisted up until they are flush with the hull (or in a recess in the hull) with the shaft in the fairleads and leeches.

While there are numerous variations, stockless anchors consist of a set of heavy hooks connected to a shaft by a swivel or ball and socket joint. Cast into the crown of the anchor are a series of stumbling palms, protrusions that drag on the ground, forcing the main flukes to burrow.

Small Boat Anchors[ edit ]

By the mid-20th century, anchors for smaller ships were either scaled-down versions of Admiralty anchors or simple grapnels. As new designs with greater holding power to weight ratios were sought, a wide variety of anchor designs have emerged. Many of these designs are still patented, and other types are best known by their original brand names.

Grapnel anchor[ edit ]

A traditional design, the Grapnel is just a shank with four or more prongs. It has the advantage that regardless of how it reaches the ground, one or more tines aim to settle. In coral or rock, it can often solidify quickly by hooking into structure, but can be more difficult to recover. A Grapnel is often fairly light and can have additional uses as a tool to recover gear that has gone overboard. Its weight also makes it relatively easy to move and carry, however its shape is generally not very compact and it can be difficult to store unless a collapsible model is used.

Grapnels rarely have enough fluke area to develop much grip in sand, clay, or mud. It is not unknown for the anchor to foul on its own rod or foul the tines with debris from underneath, preventing it from digging in. On the other hand, it’s entirely possible for this anchor to find such a good hook, without a trip line from the crown it’s impossible to regain.[10][11]

Herreshoff anchor[edit]

Designed by yacht designer L. Francis Herreshoff, this is essentially the same pattern as an Admiralty anchor, albeit with small diamond-shaped flukes or palms. The novelty of the design lay in the means by which it could be disassembled into three parts for stowage. In use it still shows all the problems of the Admiralty pattern anchor.

Northill Anchor[ edit ]

Originally conceived as a lightweight seaplane anchor, this design consists of two plough-like blades mounted on a shank, with a folding shank traversing the crown of the anchor.

CQR plow anchor [ edit ]

A CQR plow anchor.

Many manufacturers produce a plow-like anchor, so named for its resemblance to an agricultural plow. All of these anchors are copied from the original CQR (Coastal Quick Release or Clyde Quick Release, later renamed ‘safe’ by Lewmar), a design patented in Britain in 1933 by mathematician Geoffrey Ingram Taylor.

Plow anchors conveniently stow in a roll at the bow and are popular with cruising sailors and private boaters. Plows can be moderately good in all types of seabed, although they are exceptional in none. Contrary to popular belief, the CQR’s hinged shank is not intended to allow the anchor to pivot when changing direction rather than swerving, but actually prevent the weight of the shank from interfering with the fluke’s alignment when setting. The hinge can wear out and pinch a sailor’s fingers. Some later plow anchors have a rigid shank, such as the Lewmar “Delta”.

A plow anchor has a fundamental flaw: like its namesake, the agricultural plow, it digs in but then tends to break the surface again. Plow anchors sometimes have trouble setting at all, instead bouncing across the seabed. In contrast, modern efficient anchors are more of a “shovel” type, digging deeper and deeper.

Delta anchor[ edit ]

The Delta anchor was derived from the CQR. It was built in 1992 by Philip McCarron, James Stewart and Gordon Lyall of British marine manufacturer Simpson-Lawrence Ltd. patented. It was developed as an advance over the anchors used for floating systems such as oil platforms. It retains the weighted tip of the CQR but has a much higher fluke area-to-weight ratio than its predecessor. The designers have also eliminated the sometimes annoying hinge. It is a plow anchor with a rigid, cambered shaft. It is called self-launching because it can be dropped from a bow reel simply by paying out the rod without manual assistance. This is an often copied design, with the European horsefly and Australian Sarca Excel being two of the most notable. Despite being a plough-like anchor, it sets and holds fairly well in hard bottoms.

Danforth anchor[ edit ]

The Danforth is a lightweight, versatile and extremely popular Fluke style anchor

American Richard Danforth invented the Danforth anchor in the 1940s for use aboard landing craft. It uses a stem at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The shaft is hinged, allowing the flukes to orient themselves downwards (and in some designs, can be adjusted to an optimal angle depending on the soil type). Trippalms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is of a buried variety and once well set can develop a high level of resistance. Its lightweight and compact, low-profile design makes it easy to extract and relatively easy to store; Some anchor rollers and hawsepipes can accept a fluke-style anchor.

A Danforth does not typically penetrate or hold in gravel or weeds. It can hold in boulders and coral by acting as a hook. If there is a lot of current, or if the ship is moving while dropping anchor, it may “kite” or “sled” over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing.

Developed in Brittany in the 1970s, the FOB HP anchor is a Danforth variant designed to provide increased hold through the use of rounded hooks set at a 30° angle .[17]

The Fortress is an American aluminum alloy Danforth variant that can be disassembled for storage and features an adjustable 32° and 45° shank/hook angle to improve holding ability on common seabeds such as hard sand and soft mud.[18 ] This anchor performed well in a 1989 US Naval Sea Systems Command (NAVSEA) test[19] and in an August 2014 holding force test conducted in the soft mud bottoms of the Chesapeake Bay.[20]

Bruce or Claw Anchor[ edit ]

The Bruce anchor was an evolutionary improvement for its time. It is most effective in larger sizes

This claw-shaped anchor was designed by Peter Bruce of Scotland in the 1970s.[21] Bruce gained his early reputation manufacturing large scale commercial anchors for ships and fixed installations such as oil platforms. It was later scaled down for small boats, and copies of this very popular design abound. Commonly known as “claw anchors”, the Bruce and its copies have been adopted on smaller boats (partly because they stow easily on a bow roller), but they are most effective in larger sizes. Claw anchors are very popular with charter fleets as their percentage is very high on many basic types on the first try. They have a reputation for not erupting at tide or wind changes, instead slowly rotating in the bottom to line up with the force.

Bruce anchors can have difficulty penetrating weed soil and grass. They offer a fairly low holding power-to-weight ratio and generally need to be oversized to compete with newer types.[22]

Shovel-type anchors[ edit ]

The three-time circumnavigator Rolf Kaczirek invented the stirrup anchor in the 1980s. Kaczirek wanted an anchor that would self-right without the need for a weighted tip. Instead, he added a roll bar and swapped out the ploughshare for a flat blade design. Since none of the innovations of this anchor were patented, there are many copies of it.

Alain Poiraud from France introduced the shovel anchor in 1996. Similar to the stirrup anchor, Poiraud’s design features a concave fluke shaped like the blade of a shovel, with a shank fixed parallel to the fluke and the load applied to the digging end. It is designed to dig into the ground like a shovel and dig deeper when more pressure is applied. The common challenge with all Scoop anchors is that they settle so well that they are difficult to weigh.

Stirrup Anchor or Wasi: This German-designed bug anchor has a sharp tip for penetrating weeds and features a roll bar that allows proper adjustment to be achieved without having to insert additional weight into the tip.[23]

spade anchor

Spade: This is a French design that has stood the test of time since 1996. It features a detachable shaft (hollow in some cases) and a choice of galvanized steel, stainless steel or aluminum construction, meaning a lighter weight and easier to stow anchor. 24] The geometry also makes this anchor self-stowing on a single reel.

Rocna: This New Zealand spade design, available in galvanized or stainless steel, has been manufactured since 2004. It has a roll bar (similar to the bar), a large spade-like fluke area, and a sharp point for penetrating weeds and grass. The Rocna cures quickly and holds up well.[26]

Mantus anchor

Mantus: This is said to be a fast setting anchor with high holding power. It is designed as an all-round anchor that can be used even in difficult soils such as hard sand/loam and grass. The shaft is made of high-strength steel that can withstand high loads. It is similar in design to the Rocna but has a larger and wider roll bar that reduces the risk of fouling and increases the angle of the fluke, resulting in improved penetration in some soils.[27]

Ultra: This is an innovative spade design that dispenses with a roll bar. Constructed primarily of stainless steel, its main arm is hollow while the tip of its tail contains lead.[28] It is very similar to the Spade anchor in appearance.

A volcanic anchor from Rocna Anchors

Vulcan: A new brother to the Rocna, this anchor works similarly but does not have a roll bar. Instead, the Vulcan has patented design features like the “V-Bulb” and the “Roll Palm” that allow it to dig deep. The Vulcan was primarily designed for sailors who had difficulty accommodating the Rocna roll bar on their bow.[29] Peter Smith (creator of the Rocna) designed it specifically for larger power boats. Both Vulcans and Rocnas are available in galvanized steel or in stainless steel. The Vulcan is very similar in appearance to the spade anchor.

Knox anchor

Knox Anchor: This is made in Scotland and was invented by Professor John Knox. It has a split, concave, large-area fluke arrangement and a high-strength steel shaft. A roll bar similar to the Rocna offers quick adjustment and a holding power of about 40 times the anchor weight. [30] [clarification needed]

Other Temporary Anchors[edit]

Mud Weight: Consists of a blunt, heavy weight, usually cast iron or cast lead, that sinks into the mud and resists lateral movement. Only suitable for very soft muddy bottoms and in mild conditions. Sizes range from 5 to 20 kg for small boats. There are various designs and many are home-made from lead or improvised with heavy objects. This is a very common method on the Norfolk Broads in England.

: Consists of a blunt, heavy weight, usually cast iron or cast lead, that sinks into the mud and resists lateral movement. Only suitable for very soft muddy bottoms and in mild conditions. Sizes range from 5 to 20 kg for small boats. There are various designs and many are home-made from lead or improvised with heavy objects. This is a very common method on the Norfolk Broads in England. Bulwagga: This is a unique design featuring three leeches instead of the usual two. It has performed well in tests conducted by independent sources such as the American boating magazine Practical Sailor.[31]

Permanent anchor [ edit ]

These are used where the ship is stationed permanently or semi-permanently, for example on light ships or fairway marker buoys. The anchor must hold the ship in all weathers, even in the strongest of storms, but only needs to be lifted occasionally – for example only if the ship is to be towed into a harbor for maintenance purposes. An alternative to using an anchor in these circumstances, particularly if the anchor never needs to be raised at all, may be to use a stake driven into the seabed.

Permanent anchors come in a variety of types and do not have a standard shape. A slab of rock with an iron bracket in it to attach a chain to would do the trick, as would any dense object of reasonable weight (e.g. an engine block). Modern moorings can be anchored with augers, which look and function much like oversized screws that are drilled into the seabed, or with barbed wire girders that are driven in like stakes (or even driven with explosives), or by a variety of other means that no crowd are to get a grip on the ground. One method of constructing a mooring is to use three or more conventional anchors laid out with short lengths of chain attached to a swivel so that whichever direction the vessel is moving one or more anchors will be aligned, to resist the force.

mushroom [edit]

The mushroom anchor is suitable when the seabed is made of silt or fine sand. It was invented by Robert Stevenson for use on a converted 82 ton fishing boat, Pharos, used as a lightship near Bell Rock between 1807 and 1810 while the lighthouse was being built. It was equipped with a 1.5 ton example.

It is shaped like an inverted mushroom with its head buried in the mud. A counterweight is often provided at the other end of the shaft to support it before burying it.

A mushroom anchor will usually sink in the silt to the point where it has transferred its own weight in the bottom material, greatly increasing its holding power. These anchors are only suitable for silt or mud bottoms as they rely on suction and cohesion of the bottom material which rocky or coarse sand bottoms lack. The holding power of this anchor is at best about twice its weight until buried, although it can be as much as 10 times its weight.[32] They are available in sizes from around 5 kg to several tons.

Dead weight[ edit ]

This is an anchor that relies solely on its heavy weight. It’s usually just a big block of concrete or stone at the end of the chain. Its holding power is defined by its weight underwater (i.e. accounting for its buoyancy) regardless of the type of seabed, although suction can increase this if buried. Therefore, self-weight anchors are used where mushroom anchors are unsuitable, for example in rock, gravel or coarse sand. An advantage of a dead weight anchor over a mushroom is that when pulled, it continues to provide its original holding power. The disadvantage of using dead weight anchors in conditions where a mushroom anchor could be used is that it must be about ten times the weight of the corresponding mushroom anchor.

Snail [ edit ]

Slug anchors can be used to anchor permanent moorings, floating docks, fish farms, etc. These anchors, which have one or more slightly inclined self-drilling threads, must be screwed into the seabed with a tool and therefore require access to the bottom, either at low tide or through the use of a diver. Therefore, they can be difficult to install in deep water without special equipment.

Weight for weight, slugs have more support than other permanent designs and are therefore cheap and relatively easy to install, although difficult to set in extremely soft mud.

In the oil and gas industry there is a need to withstand large anchoring forces when laying pipelines and drilling ships. These anchors are installed and removed using a support tug and pennant/hanging wire. Some examples are the Stevin range supplied by Vrijhof Ankers. Large plate anchors such as the Stevmanta are used for permanent anchorages.

Anchor equipment [ edit ]

Thomas Brunton invented and patented the rivet-link sea chain cable in 1813, which replaced and is still in use with hemp cable

The items of anchoring equipment include the anchor, the cable (also called the anchor), the method of attaching the two together, the method of attaching the cable to the vessel, charts, and a method of finding the depth of the water.

Ships can carry a number of anchors: Bower anchors (formerly known as sheet anchors [citation needed]) are the main anchors used by a ship and are usually carried on the ship’s bow. A Kedge anchor is a lightweight anchor used for twisting an anchor, also known as kedging, or more commonly on yachts for quick mooring or when conditions are favourable. A power anchor, usually heavier than a kedge anchor, can be used for mooring or twisting in addition to temporary mooring and restraining stern movement on tides or in waters where vessel movement must be restricted, such as rivers and canals. 33]

Diagrams are crucial for good anchoring.[34] Knowing the location of potential hazards and assessing the effects of weather and tide at the anchorage are essential to choosing a good spot to cast the hook. Nautical charts can be done without, but they are an important tool and part of good anchoring gear, and an experienced seaman would not anchor without them.

Anchor ride [ edit ]

The anchor chain (or “cable” or “chain”) that connects the anchor to the ship usually consists of chain, rope, or a combination thereof.[35] Large ships only use tracked undercarriages. Smaller vessels can use a rope/chain combination or an all-chain rod. All rods should have a chain; Chain is heavy but resists abrasion from coral, sharp rocks or shellfish beds, while rope chain is sensitive to abrasion and can fail in a short time if tensioned against an abrasive surface. The weight of the chain also helps keep the pull direction of the anchor closer to horizontal, which improves grip and absorbs some of the shock loads. Where weight is not a concern, a heavier chain will provide better support by forming a catenary curve through the water and resting on the bottom for as much of its length as is not being lifted by the tension of the mooring load. Any changes in tension are taken up by additional raised or grounded chain bearings that absorb shock loads until the chain is straight, at which point the full load is taken by the anchor. Additional dissipation of shock loads can be achieved by installing a damper between the chain and a bollard or cleat on deck. This also reduces shock loads on the deck fittings and the ship is usually more comfortable and quiet.

Because nylon rope is strong and resilient, it works best as an anchor chain. Polyester (terylene) is stronger but less elastic than nylon. Both materials sink so they don’t collide with other boats in crowded anchorages and don’t take up a lot of water. Neither breaks quickly in sunlight. The resiliency helps absorb shock loads, but causes faster abrasive wear when the rope is stretched over an abrasive surface like coral bottom or a poorly constructed wedge. Polypropylene (“polyprop”) is not suitable for rods as it floats and is much weaker than nylon as it is little stronger than natural fibres. [citation needed] Some grades of polypropylene degrade in sunlight and become hard, weak, and uncomfortable to handle. Natural fibers such as manila or hemp are still used in developing countries, but absorb a lot of water, are relatively weak and rot, although they give a good grip and are often relatively cheap. Ropes with little or no elasticity are not suitable as anchor rods. The elasticity is partly a function of the fiber material and partly the rope structure.

All anchors should have a chain at least the length of the boat. [Klärung erforderlich] Einige Skipper bevorzugen eine vollständige Kettenverwindung für mehr Sicherheit auf Korallen oder scharfkantigen Felsböden. Die Kette sollte durch eine Stahlöse an die Kette gefesselt oder mit einem Kettenspleiß an die Kette gespleißt werden. Der Schäkelstift sollte sicher verdrahtet oder mausfest sein. Sowohl galvanisierter als auch rostfreier Stahl ist für Ösen und Schäkel geeignet, wobei galvanisierter Stahl der stärkere der beiden ist. [Zitieren erforderlich] Einige Skipper ziehen es vor, der Rute einen Wirbel [36] hinzuzufügen. Es gibt eine Denkschule, die besagt, dass diese nicht mit dem Anker selbst verbunden sein sollten [Klärung erforderlich], sondern irgendwo in der Kette sein sollten. Die meisten Skipper verbinden den Drehwirbel jedoch direkt mit dem Anker.

Geltungsbereich [Bearbeiten]

Die Reichweite ist das Verhältnis der Wassertiefe, gemessen vom höchsten Punkt (normalerweise der Ankerrolle oder dem Bugkeil) zum Meeresboden, unter Berücksichtigung der höchsten erwarteten Flut. Die Funktion dieses Verhältnisses besteht darin, sicherzustellen, dass der Zug am Anker ihn wahrscheinlich nicht aus dem Boden bricht, wenn er eingebettet ist, oder ihn von einem harten Boden abhebt, was beides wahrscheinlich dazu führt, dass der Anker schleift. Ein großer Umfang induziert eine nahezu horizontale Belastung.

Bei moderaten Bedingungen sollte das Verhältnis von Rode- zu Wassertiefe 4:1 betragen – bei ausreichend Schwungraum ist ein größerer Umfang immer besser. In raueren Bedingungen sollte es bis zu doppelt so groß sein, wobei die zusätzliche Länge mehr Dehnung und einen kleineren Winkel zum Boden gibt, um dem Ausbrechen des Ankers zu widerstehen.[37] Wenn das Wasser beispielsweise 8 Meter (26 Fuß) tief ist und sich die Ankerrolle 1 Meter (3 Fuß) über dem Wasser befindet, beträgt die „Tiefe“ 9 Meter (~30 Fuß). Die Strecke, die wir bei gemäßigten Bedingungen zurücklassen können, beträgt somit 36 ​​Meter (120 Fuß). (Aus diesem Grund ist es wichtig, eine zuverlässige und genaue Methode zur Messung der Wassertiefe zu haben.)

Bei Verwendung einer Tauleine gibt es eine einfache Möglichkeit, den Umfang abzuschätzen:[38] Das Verhältnis der Bughöhe der Rute zur Länge der Rute über dem Wasser, während sie fest auf dem Anker liegt, ist gleich oder kleiner als das Verhältnis der Reichweite . Grundlage dafür ist einfache Geometrie (Schnittsatz): Das Verhältnis zwischen zwei Seiten eines Dreiecks bleibt unabhängig von der Größe des Dreiecks gleich, solange sich die Winkel nicht ändern.

Im Allgemeinen sollte die Tiefe zwischen dem 5- und 10-fachen der Tiefe des Meeresbodens liegen, was einen Umfang von 5: 1 oder 10: 1 ergibt; Je größer die Zahl, desto flacher ist der Winkel zwischen Kabel und Meeresboden und desto weniger Aufwärtskraft wirkt auf den Anker. Ein 10:1-Zielfernrohr bietet die größte Haltekraft, lässt aber aufgrund der längeren Kabelmenge auch viel mehr Abdriften zu. Eine Verankerung mit ausreichendem Spielraum und/oder schwerem Kettenzug bringt die Belastungsrichtung nahezu parallel zum Meeresboden. Dies ist besonders wichtig für leichte, moderne Anker, die zum Eingraben im Boden ausgelegt sind, wo Bereiche von 5: 1 bis 7: 1 üblich sind, während schwere Anker und Verankerungen einen Bereich von 3: 1 oder weniger verwenden können. Einige moderne Anker, wie der Ultra, halten mit einem Bereich von 3: 1; [Zitat erforderlich], aber wenn der Ankerplatz nicht überfüllt ist, wird ein längerer Bereich immer Stoßbelastungen reduzieren. [Clarification required]

Verankerungstechniken [ bearbeiten ]

Farbige Kunststoffeinsätze an einer modernen Ankerkette zeigen dem Bediener, wie viel Kette ausgegeben wurde. Dieses Wissen ist bei allen Verankerungsmethoden sehr wichtig

Die grundlegende Verankerung besteht aus der Bestimmung des Standorts, dem Auswerfen des Ankers, dem Auslegen des Zielfernrohrs, dem Setzen des Hakens und der Beurteilung, wo das Schiff landet. Das Schiff wird einen ausreichend geschützten Ort aufsuchen; hat einen geeigneten Haltegrund, genügend Tiefe bei Ebbe und genügend Platz, damit das Boot schwingen kann.

Der Ort, an dem der Anker geworfen werden soll, sollte mit dem Wind oder mit der Strömung angefahren werden, je nachdem, was stärker ist. Wenn Sie sich dem ausgewählten Punkt nähern, sollte das Schiff anhalten oder sogar beginnen, zurückzutreiben. Der Anker sollte zunächst zügig, aber kontrolliert bis auf Grund ausgeholt werden (siehe Ankerwinde). Das Schiff sollte weiter zurückdriften, und das Kabel sollte kontrolliert (langsam) herausgedreht werden, damit es relativ gerade ist.

Sobald der gewünschte Bereich ausgelegt ist, sollte das Schiff sanft nach achtern gezwungen werden, normalerweise unter Verwendung des Hilfsmotors, möglicherweise aber durch Rückwärtssetzen eines Segels. A hand on the anchor line may telegraph a series of jerks and jolts, indicating the anchor is dragging, or a smooth tension indicative of digging in. As the anchor begins to dig in and resist backward force, the engine may be throttled up to get a thorough set. If the anchor continues to drag, or sets after having dragged too far, it should be retrieved and moved back to the desired position (or another location chosen.)

There are techniques of anchoring to limit the swing of a vessel if the anchorage has limited room:

Using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel [ edit ]

Lowering a concentrated, heavy weight down the anchor line – rope or chain – directly in front of the bow to the seabed behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers the angle of pull on the anchor.[39] If the weight is suspended off the seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight ineffective. Known as an “anchor chum weight” or “angel” in the UK.

Forked moor [ edit ]

Using two anchors set approximately 45° apart, or wider angles up to 90°, from the bow is a strong mooring for facing into strong winds. To set anchors in this way, first one anchor is set in the normal fashion. Then, taking in on the first cable as the boat is motored into the wind and letting slack while drifting back, a second anchor is set approximately a half-scope away from the first on a line perpendicular to the wind. After this second anchor is set, the scope on the first is taken up until the vessel is lying between the two anchors and the load is taken equally on each cable. This moor also to some degree limits the range of a vessel’s swing to a narrower oval. Care should be taken that other vessels will not swing down on the boat due to the limited swing range.

Bow and stern [ edit ]

(Not to be mistaken with the Bahamian moor, below.) In the bow and stern technique, an anchor is set off each the bow and the stern, which can severely limit a vessel’s swing range and also align it to steady wind, current or wave conditions. One method of accomplishing this moor is to set a bow anchor normally, then drop back to the limit of the bow cable (or to double the desired scope, e.g. 8:1 if the eventual scope should be 4:1, 10:1 if the eventual scope should be 5:1, etc.) to lower a stern anchor.[40] By taking up on the bow cable the stern anchor can be set. After both anchors are set, tension is taken up on both cables to limit the swing or to align the vessel.

Bahamian moor [ edit ]

Similar to the above, a Bahamian moor is used to sharply limit the swing range of a vessel, but allows it to swing to a current. One of the primary characteristics of this technique is the use of a swivel as follows: the first anchor is set normally, and the vessel drops back to the limit of anchor cable. A second anchor is attached to the end of the anchor cable, and is dropped and set. A swivel is attached to the middle of the anchor cable, and the vessel connected to that.

The vessel will now swing in the middle of two anchors, which is acceptable in strong reversing currents, but a wind perpendicular to the current may break out the anchors, as they are not aligned for this load.

Backing an anchor [ edit ]

Also known as tandem anchoring, in this technique two anchors are deployed in line with each other, on the same rode. With the foremost anchor reducing the load on the aft-most, this technique can develop great holding power and may be appropriate in “ultimate storm” circumstances. It does not limit swinging range, and might not be suitable in some circumstances. There are complications, and the technique requires careful preparation and a level of skill and experience above that required for a single anchor.

Kedging [ edit ]

Statue of Peter the Great in Voronezh , Russia. He is leaning on an anchor, symbolic of his contributions to modernizing and expanding Russia’s navy (1860)

Kedging or warping is a technique for moving or turning a ship by using a relatively light anchor.

In yachts, a kedge anchor is an anchor carried in addition to the main, or bower anchors, and usually stowed aft. Every yacht should carry at least two anchors – the main or bower anchor and a second lighter kedge anchor. It is used occasionally when it is necessary to limit the turning circle as the yacht swings when it is anchored, such as in a very narrow river or a deep pool in an otherwise shallow area. Kedge anchors are sometimes used to recover vessels that have run aground.

For ships, a kedge may be dropped while a ship is underway, or carried out in a suitable direction by a tender or ship’s boat to enable the ship to be winched off if aground or swung into a particular heading, or even to be held steady against a tidal or other stream.

Historically, it was of particular relevance to sailing warships which used them to outmaneuver opponents when the wind had dropped but might be used by any vessel in confined, shoal water to place it in a more desirable position, provided she had enough manpower.

Club hauling [ edit ]

Club hauling is an archaic technique. When a vessel is in a narrow channel or on a lee shore so that there is no room to tack the vessel in a conventional manner, an anchor attached to the lee quarter may be dropped from the lee bow. This is deployed when the vessel is head to wind and has lost headway. As the vessel gathers sternway the strain on the cable pivots the vessel around what is now the weather quarter turning the vessel onto the other tack. The anchor is then normally cut away, as it cannot be recovered.[41][42]

Weighing anchor [ edit ]

Since all anchors that embed themselves in the bottom require the strain to be along the seabed, anchors can be broken out of the bottom by shortening the rope until the vessel is directly above the anchor; at this point the anchor chain is “up and down”, in naval parlance. If necessary, motoring slowly around the location of the anchor also helps dislodge it. Anchors are sometimes fitted with a trip line[43] attached to the crown, by which they can be unhooked from rocks, coral, chain, or other underwater hazards.

The term aweigh describes an anchor when it is hanging on the rope and is not resting on the bottom. This is linked to the term to weigh anchor, meaning to lift the anchor from the sea bed, allowing the ship or boat to move. An anchor is described as aweigh when it has been broken out of the bottom and is being hauled up to be stowed. Aweigh should not be confused with under way, which describes a vessel which is not moored to a dock or anchored, whether or not the vessel is moving through the water. Aweigh is also often confused with away, which is incorrect.

Anchor as symbol [ edit ]

A 1914 Russian poster depicting the Triple Entente of World War I, with Britannia ‘s association with the sea symbolized by her holding a large anchor

An anchor pictured in the coat of arms of Mariehamn , the capital city of Åland

An anchor frequently appears on the flags and coats of arms of institutions involved with the sea, both naval and commercial, as well as of port cities and seacoast regions and provinces in various countries. There also exists in heraldry the “Anchored Cross”, or Mariner’s Cross, a stylized cross in the shape of an anchor. The symbol can be used to signify ‘fresh start’ or ‘hope’.[44] The New Testament refers to the Christian’s hope as “an anchor of the soul”.[45] The Mariner’s Cross is also referred to as St. Clement’s Cross, in reference to the way this saint was killed (being tied to an anchor and thrown from a boat into the Black Sea in 102). Anchored crosses are occasionally a feature of coats of arms in which context they are referred to by the heraldic terms anchry or ancre.[46]

In 1887, the Delta Gamma Fraternity adopted the anchor as its badge to signify hope.[47]

The Unicode anchor (Miscellaneous Symbols) is represented by: ⚓.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Bibliography[edit]

Blackwell, Alex & Daria; Happy Hooking – the Art of Anchoring, 2008, 2011, 2019 White Seahorse; ISBN 978-1795717410

2008, 2011, 2019 White Seahorse; ISBN 978-1795717410 Edwards, Fred; Sailing as a Second Language: An illustrated dictionary, 1988 Highmark Publishing; ISBN 0-87742-965-0

1988 Highmark Publishing; ISBN 0-87742-965-0 Hinz, Earl R.; The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring, Rev. 2d ed., 1986, 1994, 2001 Cornell Maritime Press; ISBN 0-87033-539-1

1986, 1994, 2001 Cornell Maritime Press; ISBN 0-87033-539-1 Hiscock, Eric C.; Cruising Under Sail, second edition, 1965 Oxford University Press; ISBN 0-19-217522-X

1965 Oxford University Press; ISBN 0-19-217522-X Pardey, Lin and Larry; The Capable Cruiser ; 1995 Pardey Books/Paradise Cay Publications; ISBN 0-9646036-2-4

; 1995 Pardey Books/Paradise Cay Publications; ISBN 0-9646036-2-4 Rousmaniere, John; The Annapolis Book of Seamanship, 1983, 1989 Simon and Schuster; ISBN 0-671-67447-1

1983, 1989 Simon and Schuster; ISBN 0-671-67447-1 Smith, Everrett; Cruising World’s Guide to Seamanship: Hold me tight, 1992 New York Times Sports/Leisure Magazines

Further Reading[edit]

To follow this guide, make sure you have it complete and for evaluation purposes. HelpNDoc is an easy-to-use program that can create multiple help, document and manual formats including CHM, HTML, DocX, PDF, Qt Help, ePub and Kindle eBooks, Markdown files…

Step-by-step guide: How to use anchors

HelpNDoc gives you the option to insert anchors into your topics to further enhance the usefulness of your hyperlinks. By default, hyperlinks take the reader to the beginning of certain topics. Placing anchors in topics gives you the added benefit of being able to hyperlink to these embedded anchors. As a result, readers can be taken to exact locations within topics rather than the beginning of topics.

Step 1 In the text editor, place your cursor where you want to insert the anchor.

You can click on a word or place the cursor directly in front of it. Or you can highlight text.

The anchor is placed directly over this spot.

Step 2 In the Links section of the Insert tab, click Insert/Remove Anchor.

This will bring up the Insert Anchor window.

Step 3 After naming the anchor, click OK.

This will display a dotted line showing the location of the new anchor.

You can insert additional anchors by following the steps above.

After inserting anchors, you can create hyperlinks to them. The steps to create hyperlinks are in another step-by-step guide. To remove an anchor, place your cursor on the text directly below the anchor. Then, in the Links section of the Insert tab, click Insert/Remove Anchor.

See also

Career How do I start the tutorial while docked?

Start with something unusual. People are really tired of listing all those written welcome speeches where you welcome the main guests and say “thank you for coming and making this event a success”. Do something unpredictable. Remember, in order to engage the audience, you need to be as open as possible. Just open up! It will take you 5-10 minutes to adjust, but after that you will find that everything is in flux and things will come out naturally. You can even ask your audience to clap for themselves with these tips.

As for the script part, it needs to be prepared according to the theme of the event and the audience. Here are a few tips to use when preparing the script’s intro.

1. Ask a question

Before starting any program, it is better to grab your audience’s attention. So, to get attention, ask some interesting questions in a confident, kind, and loud voice. The question should be something simple like, “Are you having a good time?” or say “Hey, what’s up everyone?”. This will help put the audience at ease and focus on what you are about to talk about.

Sponsored

Ask the crowd some interesting questions and the questions must be relatable. Something that happens every now and then, but people don’t deal with it properly.

2. With a nice quote

You can start anchoring with a thought or quote from a great person like Mahatma Gandhi. For example: “Be the change you want to see in the world”, I would like to _________ start your day with this quote from Mr. Mahatma Gandhi.

For a formal event, you can start with some good quotes. For a formal Independence Day event, you can start with a patriotic quote. And then the greeting and greeting of the audience begin, followed by the events.

If it’s a fashion show, you can use related quotes to start like “Style is, for now, fashion is forever.” An impressive post-event quote can be a good one to start with. And be energetic and confident. In the end it’s everything. Use good quotes and add elements

3. Sing a song

If it’s an informal event, you can usually be a little more casual. When it’s crowded and people are just moving, you can hide behind the curtains and start singing. People will definitely stop doing what they were doing and wonder where the voice came from. And then you reveal yourself and you say, “Now that I have your attention, let’s get on with this show.”

4. Recite a poem

Begin the event with Shayari or a 4-5 line poem that fits the program. For example, if you are hosting a freshman party start with an inviting Shayari, if it is a farewell party you can say something like “Meet, depart is the way of life, depart and meet is the hope of life”.

5. Summary of the event

You can give a brief synopsis of the event, what the audience will experience in the next few minutes during the event, so you can make the audience’s excitement level high and energetic.

6. With a joke

Imagine you are in the audience and think what do you expect from the time and money you have invested to attend the show? Think about it on three levels. Childish, mature and old. So, pull together some puns and jokes that won’t hurt any mood and get everyone laughing. At informal shows, break the ice first, use your humor, fry someone, or make jokes about yourself.

7. Greeting

You want to welcome everyone because you’re on stage and you need to greet them with a warm welcome, so start as… A very good afternoon/good morning/evening to… then start by greeting the authorities, make sure you go from higher to lower authorities in order. If there is an outside guest, be sure to introduce them as… It is my pleasure to mention Mr. Xyz who made this possible today due to his/her busy schedule. I ask him/her with a huge round of applause or greet him/her or please greet him with thunderous applause.

8. Introduce yourself and the event

You can greet everyone and introduce yourself. Then say 2-3 lines about the program, e.g. If it is a farewell party, you can say, “We are very sad to say goodbye to our seniors, so we want to give you the best farewell.” etc.

These techniques will also help you be a better host. “25 Tips for Anchoring an Event”

Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally sitting on your anchor, your boat’s anchor system isn’t a place to cut corners. Your choice of anchor will depend on the size and type of your boat, as well as the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter.

Boats with large displacements or structures that offer a lot of wind resistance require heavier equipment. The same applies to cruising yachts, which have to brave a wide variety of conditions and sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not a legal requirement, it is recommended that you carry an anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period of time, e.g. B. overnight, or in an emergency situation, z. B. if you run out of gas. When considering or buying an anchor, BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation. So if you have space, carry two anchors – preferably of different types. Many people choose to carry a small anchor or “lunch hook” and a larger working or storm anchor. The noon hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is watching the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful when the crew is asleep or ashore, and in heavy weather when the wind is 30 mph and up.

The general name for all the gear you need to anchor your boat is “ground gear”. This includes anchor, chain, line and fasteners. The anchor line, including the chain, is called a rode.

play hooky

Just as boats come in a variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, but choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to understand three things:

Your Boat – The size, weight and design features of your boat will affect what type of anchor you need to use. For example, a 30-foot, 10,000-pound houseboat will require a larger anchor than a 30-foot, 6000-pound speedboat. Where You’re Going – Where you want to anchor often determines what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock or is it soft mud? If you are unfamiliar with the area, ask around or check a local map. Local Conditions – Anchoring in a calm, sheltered bay can be quite different from anchoring offshore or in a large open bay. And don’t forget the weather – high winds, tides and waves can make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by “holding power” – that is an anchor’s ability to hold a specified weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat might only need an anchor with a few hundred pounds of holding power on a calm day, but 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

anchor types

There are different types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the soil characteristics in the areas where you will be anchoring most often. Then choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Light or “Danforth” anchors

Light anchor with two long pivoting “leeches”; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to almost 200 pounds and are generally made of zinc-plated cast metal, although some models are constructed of a lightweight aluminum composite. When dropped, leeches dig the anchor into the ground, and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats as they are relatively light for the holding power they provide, especially when compared to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud where leeches can easily burrow into the ground.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud that can bunch around the tail fin; or on rocky ground where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy soils as the leeches tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy anchor

A more traditional style anchor with arks, leeches and shaft. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky ground or hard sand where an arm can get into a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand where flukes cannot burrow.

Works differently than previous anchors as it is not a ground anchor; One arm digs into the ground and one is exposed. Generally only used by very large vessels as most of the holding power is dependent on weight. not really suitable for recreational use except for a lunchtime snack.

Grapnels anchor

Very cheap but not much holding power. Some models are made from bent rebar, others are made from galvanized metal and have folding leeches. Good for salvaging items on the bottom or anchoring at wreck reef. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or “CQR/DELTA” anchor

The plow styles’ good holding power over a variety of soil types makes them the top choice for cruising sailors. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or pivoting (CQR) stock.

If a plow falls in the water it will land on its side and if pulled it will bury itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide change the boat’s position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft soil. Generally made of galvanized metal, although they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or “BRUCE” anchor

The unique shape of the claw allows for 360 degree rotation without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors, with less weight.

Sets like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the ground or how hard the boat is swung around.

mushroom anchor

Mushroom anchors, as you might imagine, get their name from their rounded mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are commonly used for mooring and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft soils where it can create a suction that is difficult to break. Decent for very small boats as a lunch hook but not practical for larger boats. Both buoys and beacons may be equipped with lights and a sound-producing device such as a gong, bell, or horn. Both buoys and beacons can be called “markers”.

line and equipment

Depending on the size and type of your boat and where you are anchoring – your choice for an anchor line will be either a pure anchor line, a combination of rope and chain or a pure chain.

Nylon cord in triple twist

A three strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than a braided line or chain alone. Chains can also be used, particularly at anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which can cut a nylon line. A piece of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer line. The chain adds weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually while serving to provide horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

The three-strand nylon line is the first choice for use as an anchor line. Lines generally come in a “soft” or “middle” position. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch and loosely woven. These are not as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly coiled lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Wires are available that have been treated with a wax-like coating. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To keep your lines in good condition, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach as it can damage the line.

Chain

A chain can be used instead of the nylon line for anchoring. The chain has several advantages, including extra weight, abrasion and wear resistance, and high strength. It also reduces the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it sit more firmly in the ground.

Chains are generally made from galvanized steel, although you can find stainless steel and vinyl-coated chains that are designed not to damage your deck.

The chain is available in three general variants: “Proof Coil” is the most common and suitable for most marine applications. “BBB” (“Triple B” or “3B”) chain has thicker, shorter links than Proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than Proof chain and is generally used on windlasses. Finally, the “Hi-Test” chain is made of hardened steel and is stronger and lighter than Proof Coil. The Hi-Test chain is preferred by those who want to avoid carrying too much weight.

Nylon cord in triple twist

Combination anchor rods consist of both chain and nylon cord. You can buy a combination rod or build one yourself. In general, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for every foot of boat length, or one pound of chain for every pound of anchor length. Whichever method you choose, it’s never a bad idea to have more chain than you need.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link… Make sure your anchor and line are attached to each other with proper gear. Some line comes with plastic thimbles or grommets, but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dip galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be checked regularly for wear and for the tightness and functionality of the connections.

scope

Scope: length of anchor line/height of deck cleat to seabed.

Before leaving the dock, you must determine how much anchor line or “ride” you need. It is recommended to use a 7:1 scope which means you should use 7 feet of rod for every foot of water depth.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would spend 70 feet of line. Measure the circumference as the ratio of the length of the anchor rod to the height of the bow above the ground. If you are using a light anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter 5:1 circumference is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater will always have an extra line and chain on hand just in case.

Minimum working rod sizes

The recommended housing sizes assume a fair housing ground, a minimum girth of 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate protection from the high seas.

Boats that generally operate in shallow waters, such as on the east coast of the United States, can make do with shorter voyage lengths. If the wind picks up, deploying an extra line will help hold position, as will dropping an extra anchor.

set anchor

Anchoring can be done quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

Check your nautical chart for basic characteristics and determine that you are anchoring in a safe and legal place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs, or other boats to watch out for, avoid them as much as possible. Keep in mind that different boats often have different anchor line length requirements – larger or taller boats often require a lot of anchor line. Also think about a possible 360 ​​degree swing around the anchor in case of wind shifts or current changes.

If your crew are not already wearing life jackets, have them put one on before anchoring or hauling in or mooring.

Attach the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once thrown overboard.

Go into the wind or into the current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat begins to move slightly aft through the water, lower the anchor – do not drop it.

After you’ve let out about a third of your line, pull on the anchor line to see how snug it is, then release the line further.

Once you’ve left a reasonable amount of scope out, make sure the line is properly attached to the bow clamp.

Even if you only anchor in designated anchoring areas, it is always advisable to have the appropriate signal, such as an all-white light, on to let other boats know that you are anchored at night. During the day, you must show a spherical shape that matches the size of your boat.

Stay in place

It is a good idea to take two bearings at once. Pick two elements, one from each bar, that form a natural range and note changes in their relationship. You can check these later to see if your boat is swinging as expected or if you are pulling the anchor.

Pick up a berth

One of the best ways to avoid the stress of anchoring is to choose a bay or harbor with moorings available to you. Mooring balls can be identified by their white spherical or can shape and a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact number, or a name on it. You usually have to pay the harbor master a small fee to use a public mooring, but you can rest assured that this is far cheaper than paying for mooring for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and use a large anchor or screw attachment to hold position. The harbor master will advise you if the weight or length of your boat is too great for that particular berth. Although moorings are usually safer than anchors, moorings can and do give out on a regular basis. For this reason, and for obvious reasons of courtesy, you should never pick up and use a berth that does not belong to you.

Wires are available that have been treated with a wax-like coating. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To keep your lines in good condition, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach as it can damage the line.

WARNING Common anchor mistakes Letting go of the anchor without securing the line to the boat.

Release the anchor while your foot is wrapped in the anchor line.

Poor communication between captain and person on foredeck.

Pick up a berth

Approach a Lee berth. This gives you better maneuverability when belaying your boat on the ball.

Walk slowly so as not to disturb those already tied up.

After donning the PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boathook to grab the eye or base of the mooring ball.

Once the mooring ball is at the bow, stop the motors or reverse carefully to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information when it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.

Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Beware of the possibility of chafing. You can use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the line provided is dirty.

Some berths may have an antenna-like device called a “whip”. This is simply an extension of the ball so you don’t have to reach as far to pull in the mooring line.

When sure, let the boat drift back and make sure you stay clear of those moored or anchored around you. There is no need to “back up” on a mooring ball.

Leaving a mooring is easy – simply motor or gently pull to the ball and untie the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to break away from the ball and associated ground device.

Never anchor a small boat at the stern! Your engine and most of the boat’s weight rests here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in flooding and flooding.

Boating

Fishing Boating 101: How to Choose the Best Type of Boat Anchor Posted by US Ports

Last updated

Information from Anchoring.com.

There are a variety of boat anchors made from different materials and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors, how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types and also an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick summary of anchor style

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article covers a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Short summary boat anchor recommendation

For most boaters, a Bruce or Delta is the best balance of price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (the Bruce/Claw is just about our favorite of the three).

If you have used a Danforth in the past and had good luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you’ve never used one and your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead.

If you are a blue water cruiser, choose a CQR or consider one of the new generation anchors detailed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Brand names and generic names

Trade name Generic name Bruce = Talon CQR = Plough/Hinged Plow Danforth = Fluke Delta = Wing

A special note is required when naming anchors. Many anchors have a brand name like Bruce or CQR and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopiers and Aspirin is a trademarked name for painkillers. Trademarks practically never expire, while designs expire after around 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The Bruce or Claw remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is also our anchor of choice.

The Bruce was developed by the Bruce Anchor Group in the 1970’s. They stopped producing this anchor after their patent expired in the early 2000s, but many imitations have come onto the market since then.

The Bruce is an excellent general purpose anchor as it works well in most seabeds including mud, sand, rocks and coral. It is more difficult to penetrate harder surfaces such as clay and soils with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets easier than other anchors. It’s also easy to reset if it ever comes loose. On the other hand, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll typically need a larger anchor than say the Delta/Wing.

Pros: Works well in most conditions. Can be adjusted easily.

Cons: Awkward one-piece design. Less holding power per pound.

Bottoms: Works well in most bottoms; Fight on hard ground like clay or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plough & Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and Delta/Wing are plow style anchors. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design while the Delta is a one-piece design.

The CQR is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 1930’s and remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers to this day. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and constantly struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25lbs that lends itself to the saying “there’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinge design is more responsive to wind and tide changes compared to other anchors.

Arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, the Delta is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat builders. It has good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the Delta and CQR perform well in most soils and struggle the most in rocks.

Pros: Works well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers.

Cons: The hinge design can make storage awkward. “There’s no such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor.”

Bottoms: Works well in most bottoms; Fight in the rock.

Danforth™/Fluke anchor

The Danforth or Fluke anchor remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke-style anchor, which differs from the Danforth in that it is knockdown and made of lightweight, high-strength aluminum.

The Fluke works well in mud and sand, possibly the best of all anchor styles. The downside is that it doesn’t perform well outside of those soils. As such it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are made of.

Whether used as a primary anchor or not, a Fluke anchor is an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros: Good performance in mud and sand. Easily stows on most bow rollers.

Cons: Doesn’t work well outside of mud/sand.

Pants: Top performers in mud/sand. Works poorly in other soils.

Plow anchor with roll bar

There are several anchors on the market today that are essentially plow anchors with roll bars. These include Rocna, Manson Supreme and Bugel.

Each of these anchors is essentially a variation of a plow anchor. If you look at the plowing portion of these anchors you can see that they are much sharper than traditional plows like the Delta/Wing and CQR. Like a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the seabed much more easily than the other anchor styles. The roll bar also helps them orient themselves upright when adjusting.

These anchors have performed very well in third-party tests. The main disadvantage of these anchors is that they can be very expensive because they are still patented. The roll bar along with the extended plow can also make stowing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Advantages: Very high holding power for many models.

Cons: Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expenditure.

Bottoms: Works well in most bottoms.

Grapnel and other small crafting anchors

A grapnel anchor is generally used for small boats such as kayaks, inflatable boats, canoes, etc. It is also popular with fishermen. They fold very compactly and are easy to store. The holding power of a Grapnel comes from hooking it onto another object, such as a stick. B. a rock. If it snags, it can generate tremendous holding power, which can also make it difficult to retrieve the anchor.

Pros: Ideal as a lunch hook. Folds up for compact storage.

Disadvantages: Not suitable for non-temporary anchoring.

Bottoms: Rock or other situations where it may snag on an object.

mushroom anchor

Large mushroom anchors are often used for mooring buoys. When silt from the seabed builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the Mushroom Anchor is an excellent choice, but it’s not that useful in some temporary anchoring situations. One exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over muddy bottoms where fungus can invade.

Pros: When large, ideal for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use when fishing or for a lunch break.

Cons: If large, not suitable for non-permanent moorings. When small, only good in soft soil.

Soils: Mud, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Material types for boat anchors

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-strength steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors that we are used to are probably either mild steel or high strength steel. Structural steel and high-strength steel can hardly be distinguished from each other visually. However, high strength steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. That’s not to say that a high-strength steel boat anchor will have 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will still be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-strength steel anchors are not resistant to corrosion and therefore must be galvanized to prevent rusting and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless steel) should be galvanized. Galvanizing tends to wear off over time, but an anchor (like almost any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Galvanized steel stainless steel

Aluminum PROs Cheap

Strong

Corrosion resistant while galvanized DISADVANTAGES The galvanizing can wear off over time

Not as attractive as stainless steel PROs. Looks very attractive

Strong

Corrosion resistant CONS Very expensive

Scratches and other wear and tear can affect appearance ADVANTAGES Lightweight CONS More expensive than steel

Not as strong as steel

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power, but differs significantly in appearance. The lustrous sheen is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also highly corrosion resistant, resisting most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers refer to stainless steel as either 316 stainless steel or 304 stainless steel. 316 has a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It’s also more expensive.

There are some anchors made of high-strength aluminum, such as B. the fortress. These anchors are extremely light and still offer high holding power. These anchors rely on ground penetration for most of their holding power and therefore provide little to no holding power unless set.

READ MORE at anchoring.com

Anchoring.com Anchor Selection Guide.

It may take some time before you realize that the anchor is dragging even though the ship is drifting. A vigilant bridge watch is therefore essential.

By observing the bearing of two fixed lights or objects in a line. Joist bearings are the best. If they change, the ship drags. By dropping the deep sea lead to the bottom and seeing if it is trailing in front of the ship. By watching the anchor cable when it comes to a long stay, then a short stay, and then repeatedly to a long stay, it means it is pulling the anchor. The ship’s side against the wind has not changed. Check that the chains are not slack just before one side of the ship turns downwind by noting the position of the ship and confirming that the position is within the slewing circle. (The current most reliable way of checking if the anchor is dragging is to carefully monitor the vessel’s position by visual and electronic means to confirm that it remains within a slewing circle defined by the perimeter of the anchor cable and the Distance from forecastle to bridge is defined. If it deviates from the circle, the ship is likely to drag its anchor. One should not rely on a single method for determining the ship’s position. Compare with an alternative means whenever possible.) Check for abnormal vibrations from the anchor chains. Check the course recorder if it doesn’t show a figure eight movement location. The bow cannot withstand the wind.

A ship’s anchor drags due to the action of external forces that exceed the holding power of the anchor and cable.