Forage Box For Rabbits? The 191 Correct Answer

Rabbits are always digging! You have a natural instinct to dig, but what can you do about it? You could try to discourage your rabbit from digging in one spot by filling the hole with rocks and other materials, but it will only find another spot.

A better solution is to give them a specific area to dig in – a digging box. This way you can keep an eye on their activities and make sure there is no risk of injury or harm while they pursue their hobby.

What is a bunny booth?

A dig box is a special place for rabbits to dig so they can indulge in their natural behaviors. It is usually made of cardboard and filled with a rabbit-safe substrate such as shredded paper and contains wooden chews for enrichment.

A dig box is a fun, simple toy you can make for your rabbit. Rabbits love to dig, so filling an appropriate box with things your bunny would like can be a fun and easy way to provide some great foraging fun for an exploring bunny.

Pet owners with outdoor rabbits often want to give their pet a safe place to dig that will get them out of the house, so I’ve also covered how to build an outdoor burrow in this article.

How to make the perfect DIY rabbit… Please enable JavaScript How to make the perfect DIY rabbit burial box

It’s important that the materials used to craft the bunny box are rabbit safe, so I’m going to describe how easy it is to make a bunny proof bunny box in 3 easy steps.

Why your rabbit needs a digging box

Dig boxes are a great way to provide enrichment for rabbits that have a natural digging instinct. The dig box can be used as an area where they are allowed (and encouraged) to dig freely while keeping an eye on their activity and safety at all times.

Digging helps your rabbit burn off excess energy and is a natural behavior that deserves to be encouraged. A burrow can also give your rabbit a sense of security and security, they will feel more comfortable in their environment where there is no risk of injury or harm.

In the wild, rabbits will burrow into soft ground or undergrowth to protect themselves from predators, in order to quickly escape from danger if necessary; No wonder, then, that they also like to dig at home. It takes a lot of effort to dig and create tunnels, which helps keep them physically fit.

Keeping your rabbit occupied with digging will keep them from getting bored, which can lead to destructive behavior such as digging. B. chewing your furniture and digging up your plants.

Digging and chewing in their crate helps keep their teeth and claws healthy, which is essential to the rabbits’ well-being and means fewer trips to the vet.

It will keep your rabbit happy and healthy. It’s also a good idea to have a dig box if your bunny likes to chew on string or furniture. Eliminating this problem completely is the best option by providing your rabbit with an outlet to dig and chew.

If you have a small area to house your bunny and they get restless on days when it’s too wet outside, providing your bunnies with a dig box will help keep them entertained!

If you own a giant rabbit, you need a very large box!

Rabbits love to dig!

Here’s how to turn your rabbit into an indoor burial box

Step 1: Choose a crate that is the right size for your rabbit

Decide what size you want for your rabbit’s dig box. A good rule of thumb is that it should be at least twice as wide and deep as your body, so 50cm x 25cm will do if you have an average sized bunny.

Now choose a crate with high sides to reduce clutter. The box sides need to be high enough for your bunny to hop in and out.

If you are using cardboard you can cut a “door” in the box or cover it with material to try to keep the contents of the dig box inside the dig box and not all over your floor. I found using a covered litter box worked well. Assuming you don’t have a cat, of course!

If your burial pit is outside, you don’t have to worry as much about the mess.

Step 2: Choose a rabbit-proof material for your box

A cardboard box with no coating or printed colors on the outside, as your bunny will likely chew on it, is a good choice. They’re free and easily swappable when they’re a little chewed up. Make sure you remove any tape or staples before using it.

without any coating or printed ink on the outside as your bunny will likely chew on it is a good choice. They’re free and easily swappable when they’re a little chewed up. Make sure you remove any tape or staples before using it. Another good choice are plastic dishwashing bowls. Make sure they are made of durable plastic and not brittle as broken plastic can be sharp and cause injury. You’ll need to make sure your rabbit can jump in and out too, or glue a small piece of wood to the side for him to climb up.

are another good choice. Make sure they are made of durable plastic and not brittle as broken plastic can be sharp and cause injury. You’ll need to make sure your rabbit can jump in and out too, or glue a small piece of wood to the side for him to climb up. wicker baskets. There are always plenty of these in our charity shop and provided you choose one that isn’t coated in varnish it will make a good bud box. Expect a lot of chewing, but that’s good for keeping buck teeth under control.

Step 3: Choosing suitable fillers for your rabbit burrow box

There are many items you can use to fill the box, some messier than others.

Our favorites are

shredded paper from our office waste chopped up into small pieces

brown Amazon wrapping paper

Straw and hay that they are welcome to eat

To add variety and interest, you need to put other items in the box, such as:

Toilet paper rolls filled with hay

Pine cones with treats inside

Willow rods and wooden blocks to chew on

Apple or pear tree branches

It’s best not to use anything like bubble wrap, those fluffy packing beans, or other artificial packing fillers as these could be toxic and fatal to your rabbit if they eat them.

Newspapers and magazines seem like an obvious choice, but the chemicals in the inks used to print them should not be eaten, so please don’t use them.

Oh and don’t use your bunny litter in the dig box or they’ll start pooping in it!

Rabbits are intelligent and get bored easily, so be sure to swap out the box’s contents and hide different treats to keep your bunny interested in foraging. You should empty it regularly anyway, as you will find little bunny gifts among the contents.

Plastic boxes are good burrow boxes for rabbits

How to build an outdoor rabbit dig box

Our rabbit has once again made a mess in the garden. She would dig up all the vegetables, sprinkle dirt over everything and make huge holes. She was a rabbit addicted to digging!

But I didn’t like it when my beautiful garden became a disaster area, so I had an idea… I created an area for her with a specially constructed burial pit where she could go and get as dirty as she wanted without digging away ruin everything else!

Now my rabbit is happy every time he gets outside because he knows where to have fun and I won’t get upset anymore. You can also build your rabbit a digging box, here’s how.

Step 1: Find the perfect spot for your burial pit

First you should find a spot in your yard where the soil is soft enough for digging. As long as there’s plenty of dirt and no rocks too close by that could cause injury or entrapment, it should be perfect. Look for a shady area with plenty of room for the pit.

Step 2: Dig a Hole!

Dig a hole about 12 to 14 inches deep, making sure it’s straight down and wide enough for your rabbit to stretch out in. It should also be at least twice the length of your rabbit, with plenty of room to move on either side and allow your rabbit to roll over.

Step 3: Prop up the sides

Use wooden planks the size of your hole to prevent it from collapsing and prevent your rabbit from digging a giant burrow underneath your entire yard.

Step 4: Add a Ramp

Add a ramp on one side of the hole for easier access. Use a plank of wood and place it so your rabbit can easily enter their burial hole from any angle without having to incline more than 20 degrees with no more than an inch of incline. You’ll probably jump in, but getting out will be easier if you have a ramp.

Step 5: Fill the hole with rabbit safe materials

Sift the excavated soil to remove sharp rocks and objects. Then fill the hole at least 20 cm deep with the sifted soil. Add some wooden chew blocks, apple sprigs and a lava block and cover them with straw and hay.

Step 6: Build a Platform

Add another board over the top of your grave box. Rabbits often use this as a balance point while eating or standing on top.

Step 7: Digging Time!

Let your bunny spend an hour or two exploring their new dig box. Chances are they’ll spend the first few minutes sniffing around and exploring while you patiently watch from afar! The point here is that rabbits generally don’t want to dig in an area when they’re being watched, so you want to give them privacy.

Rabbit digging pit outside in the garden

Frequently asked questions about digging rabbits

This post was last updated on July 27, 2021

If you really think that letting rabbits exhibit their natural behavior is the best way to get happy rabbits, then surely letting them dig is also important?

Please read: This information is provided for educational purposes only and is not intended to treat, diagnose, or prevent any disease. We encourage you to make your own health decisions in consultation with a qualified health professional. This post contains affiliate links, which means we receive a commission from the sales at no additional cost to you. Please read our disclosure statement

I’m going to make a guess, but I’ll be blunt: people who colonize their rabbits are concerned for their welfare and choose a colony because they believe it’s best for their rabbits.

Why letting rabbits dig is a great idea

1). climate management

The weather can vary greatly from one season to the next, but the temperature of the earth at 3 feet is fairly constant.

If you experience scorchingly hot summers or winters with temperatures below 30 degrees, burrowing will keep your rabbits at the same temperature without expensive heating and/or cooling equipment.

Rabbits thrived in their burrows long before we had air conditioning!

Want to know everything about raising rabbits in a colony?

Check out our own book here:

Available on Kindle and paperback or in our shop

2). Protection from the elements

In addition to temperature, a burrow provides protection from wind and rain without requiring you to construct and clean dedicated nesting/bedding areas.

You must ensure that the construction area is positioned so that it will not flood when it rains. With that in mind, a mound to dig in is the best idea.

RELATED: Feeding rabbits naturally

3). self-cleaning

Rabbits are allowed to dig their own enclosures and clean them themselves.

This includes old bedding and leftovers. They are very clean and tidy animals if you allow them to.

4). Stop meddling

People want all farm babies to live all the time. Unfortunately, nature did not intend it that way.

Survival of the fittest ensures a species is always the best it can be.

RELATED: Rabbit Troubleshooting Guide

The less we meddle in rabbit affairs and let nature take its course, the stronger and more resilient our rabbits will become.

Left to their own devices, rabbits can take over entire continents and develop natural immunity to most diseases. IF you let nature work itself out.

Well, that doesn’t mean you ignore suffering! When an animal is suffering, it is our job to put it out of its misery.

Minor ailments can be treated, but if you’re smart, don’t let them breed. This ensures that your strongest stocks pass on their best genes.

5). predator protection

With large or overhead predators, having a burrow to run into is ideal.

I recommend making your area robber-proof, but we know that sometimes things happen and disturb them in some way! Having a den is a great second layer of protection.

6). immunity

The soil is covered in a wide range of bacteria/viruses/yeasts/parasites, some good and some not so good.

Baby rabbits raised in dirt pick up bacteria that complement their natural gut and skin biome. This adds a protective factor and a stronger immune system, with a natural balance, and helps reduce the likelihood of bad skin and intestinal infections.

Some areas are known carriers of coccidiosis and some breeders cite this as a reason to keep them away from the dirt.

But actually, if you let them live in the dirt, kill the ones with symptoms, and let those without symptoms become your breeders, you have a resistant group of rabbits.

7). happiness

If your colony has a large mound or sheltered area to dig and burrow in, your rabbits will be happier.

They are rigged to dig, and if you try to stop it by laying webs or paving stones, they will keep trying to find a spot to dig.

All of the rabbit’s instincts are to dig and hide, so if there’s a way to allow that to happen, I encourage you to do so.

They like to dig in a sheltered, secluded spot. So if you put a pallet on top of a cinder block in the middle of your colony, you’re likely to find the rabbits burrowing in there. This keeps them away from your perimeter.

For some suggestions on how to prevent your rabbits from escaping, take a look at our Top 5 Colony Questions Answered.

Would you like more information on raising rabbits in a colony? Check out our ultimate guide to rabbit breeding.

How deep can a rabbit dig?

How long in a piece of string? Rabbit burrows vary greatly in depth. It will depend on:

firmness of the soil

how many stones are in it

the height of the groundwater table

how long the rabbits want to stay there

And many other things. In captivity, it is widely believed that if you run wire 2 feet under a fence, you will prevent a rabbit from burrowing.

For mothers who want to raise their babies in a burrow, a solid ground mound is a better option as it won’t flood and you’re less likely to stand on the holes and break your ankle.

Providing a 2-3 foot deep mound is sufficient.

Check out our own book here:

Available on Kindle and paperback or in our shop

Do you let your rabbits dig? Do you have any tips for anyone just starting out?

Please pin and share with your friends!

One of the downsides of house rabbits is that they are notorious chewers. You’d be surprised at how many household items rabbits love to bite their teeth into. But some materials can be dangerous for rabbits to chew on.

Wires and cables are dangerous as your rabbit can get electrocuted. Cloth and plastic can cause blockages in your rabbit’s intestines. Certain woods such as cherry and oak are poisonous. Keep these items out of your rabbit’s reach. Instead, offer your rabbit hay or chew toys made from safe woods like willow.

We’ll look at why rabbits love to chew and why it’s vital to their health. We will cover some of the objects and materials rabbits should never chew on. We will then share some tips and advice on how to prevent your rabbit from chewing anything and what to give him instead.

Why do rabbits like to chew?

Most new rabbit owners are surprised to discover how much rabbits love to chew. Rabbits are herbivores (not carnivores) but they will chew anything.

Left to their own devices, rabbits will nibble on just about anything that comes within their reach. From curtains to baseboards, no part of the home is safe.

This presents a distinct problem as certain materials are not safe for rabbits to chew. Some are toxic and will upset your rabbit’s stomach. Others are not toxic but can cause intestinal obstruction if swallowed.

Not to mention that a rabbit that chews on anything can do significant damage to your home. A house covered in rabbit chew marks looks unattractive – not ideal when entertaining guests.

Why do rabbits chew? The answer lies in their teeth. Rabbit teeth never stop growing. They grow an average of 2mm per week, according to the Journal of Veterinary Dentistry.

Because of this, rabbits have to chew almost constantly to file their teeth. If they don’t, their teeth will grow too long. Overgrown teeth can cause health problems like pain and an inability to eat.

Pet rabbits should be encouraged to chew as often as possible. However, you must ensure that your rabbit is not chewing anything dangerous. Certain substances can pose health risks to rabbits.

Some rabbits tend to chew more than others. So, depending on your rabbit’s personality, you may have to work harder to rabbit-proof your home.

Can rabbits chew on cardboard?

Few rabbits can resist the temptation of cardboard. It is made from cellulose (plant fiber), the same substance that makes up most of a rabbit’s diet.

If a rabbit starts on cardboard, it can destroy a box in minutes. But is it bad for rabbits to chew on cardboard? The answer is a bit complicated.

Untreated, uncoated cardboard is not toxic to rabbits. But cardboard is not just cardboard. Certain types of cardboard can be dangerous if swallowed. For example:

Shiny cardboard. This has been coated with something, like wax or plastic. These coatings can be harmful to rabbits.

. This has been coated with something, like wax or plastic. These coatings can be harmful to rabbits. Colored or printed cardboard . Colors, text or images printed on board indicate the presence of ink. Ink can be toxic to rabbits, especially in large quantities.

. Colors, text or images printed on board indicate the presence of ink. Ink can be toxic to rabbits, especially in large quantities. Cardboard box with foil on one side. Some types of cardboard, such as B. Juice cartons and take-away containers have a metallic side. Rabbits should not eat foil or metal.

As long as the cardboard has no coating or ink, it is non-toxic and safe for rabbits to chew on.

But even plain cardboard can be bad for rabbits’ digestion if they overeat. Too much cardboard can cause intestinal obstruction.

So can rabbits eat toilet paper rolls and other plain cardboard? Plain cardboard is safe, in small quantities. But can rabbits eat cereal boxes or other printed or coated cardboard? No, because all additives can be toxic.

Can rabbits chew paper?

Using the example of cardboard, let’s explore whether it’s safe for rabbits to chew paper.

Paper is made from indigestible pulp. The pulp is a mixture of cellulose (plant fiber), plant cell tissue called lignin, and water.

Rabbits are drawn to paper for the same reason rabbits chew cardboard: they are irresistible to the cellulose. Cellulose helps rabbits’ digestive systems function properly. For this reason, a rabbit’s diet should consist primarily of fibrous foods such as hay.

There is nothing in paper that makes it toxic for rabbits to chew. Like regular cardboard, it is non-toxic and will not harm your rabbit if they eat any of it.

However, that doesn’t necessarily mean that feeding your rabbit paper is a good idea. Paper, like cardboard, has little nutritional value. It can also cause constipation when consumed in excess.

Also, be careful what kind of paper your rabbit has access to. Plain paper is fine, but anything printed with ink or toner — like newsprint — can be dangerous. And always avoid glossy or colored paper, such as B. Magazine paper.

You may also be wondering: Can rabbits chew paper towels? This is not a good idea since paper towels are absorbent. They can expand in a rabbit’s stomach, causing bloating, pain, and constipation.

Although paper is not necessarily toxic to rabbits, they should not chew paper on a regular basis. If your rabbit has a habit of eating paper, try to cut down on their supply. Do not use it as bedding for your rabbit.

Can rabbits chew wood?

You may have come across wooden rabbit chew toys. Wood is strong, durable, and is great for filing down rabbit teeth. And as a bonus, it’s all natural.

However, there are certain types of wood that rabbits should never chew. Some trees are poisonous to rabbits. For example:

stone fruit trees. If the wood comes from a tree that bears fruit with stone, it is poisonous to rabbits. Cherry, apricot, peach, and plum trees are all poisonous.

If the wood comes from a tree that bears fruit with stone, it is poisonous to rabbits. Cherry, apricot, peach, and plum trees are all poisonous. cedar and pine. These woods contain phenols, chemicals that give these woods their distinctive scent. Some people claim that heat-treated pine is safe, but it’s better to stay away from it, just in case.

These woods contain phenols, chemicals that give these woods their distinctive scent. Some people claim that heat-treated pine is safe, but it’s better to stay away from it, just in case. elderberry and oak. These woods contain cyanide. Although only a small amount, it can be enough to cause serious harm to a rabbit.

These woods contain cyanide. Although only a small amount, it can be enough to cause serious harm to a rabbit. Redwood, walnut and other tannic woods.

There are many other types of wood that can be harmful to rabbits. So which woods are safe? Stick to the following species: willow, hazel, birch, spruce, maple, hawthorn, and fir. You can find more information about rabbit-safe wood types here.

Apple, pear, raspberry, and blackberry sprigs are also safe. While these are fruits, they are not drupes, so the wood is not poisonous.

If you collect wild wood, dry and disinfect it thoroughly before offering it to your rabbit. Baking in the oven can help kill bacteria.

If you’re buying from a store, choose wooden toys that are labeled safe for rabbits. Wooden furniture, wicker baskets, plywood, and fiberboard should all be avoided. They may contain chemicals, varnish, glue, or a dye, all of which can be toxic to rabbits.

Can rabbits chew pine cones?

Pine cones are the female reproductive organs of the pine tree. They are woody in texture and composed of dozens of overlapping scales.

Most rabbits love pine cones. Not only do they enjoy chewing them, but they also throw them in the air, toss them around, and chase them.

However, pine cones are not always safe for rabbits. Wild-collected pine cones can harbor bacteria, insects, and pesticides. They also contain juice, which rabbits should not ingest.

If you want to prepare wild pinecones for your rabbits, choose from a pesticide-free source. If you are unsure, don’t take chances as pesticides can be deadly to rabbits.

Then sterilize the pinecones using the following method:

To wash. Fill a large bowl or sink with warm water and add 1 cup of white vinegar. Submerge the pine cones completely and stir. This will remove dried juice, dirt and foreign matter. Dry. Let your pine cones dry completely in a sunny spot. This should take about two to four days. Bake. Place the pinecones on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake at 250 degrees Fahrenheit for 2 hours. This will kill any germs and remaining bugs and dry the juice. As a bonus, the scales open up, making it easier for rabbits to chew. Cool. Remove the pinecones from the oven with tongs and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

When buying pinecones from a store, only buy ones that are labeled safe for small animals. Pine cones sold for decorative purposes can be painted or treated with harsh chemicals.

Can rabbits chew rope?

Many rabbit, bird, and small animal toys are made from blocks or balls tied together with rope. The rope is only there to hold the toy together. But occasionally your rabbit will nibble on it.

If your rabbit is a rope chewer, you’re probably wondering if ropes are safe for rabbits to eat. The answer depends entirely on what material the rope is made of. Some materials are safe for rabbits and others are not. The most common rope materials are:

Cotton . Cotton threads are made from the fluffy fibers of the cotton plant and spun extremely strong. It doesn’t break down in the gut.

. Cotton threads are made from the fluffy fibers of the cotton plant and spun extremely strong. It doesn’t break down in the gut. jute . This is made from plant fibers of the genus Corchorus. It breaks down faster than cotton.

. This is made from plant fibers of the genus Corchorus. It breaks down faster than cotton. sisal . This is made from the leaves of a plant of the Agave genus. Sisal is stiff and fairly durable. It is often used for cat scratching posts.

. This is made from the leaves of a plant of the Agave genus. Sisal is stiff and fairly durable. It is often used for cat scratching posts. synthetic materials. String and rope can also be made from man-made materials such as polypropylene.

Sisal and jute ropes are safe for rabbits. These materials can be chewed into tiny pieces that easily pass through the intestines. Make sure the rope you choose is 100% natural and has not been treated with chemicals.

Cotton and polypropylene ropes are unsafe for rabbits. These materials are often swallowed in long strands, which can cause blockages in the intestines. Never let your rabbit chew cotton or polypropylene twine.

Can rabbits chew carpets?

Besides chewing, rabbits love to dig. European wild rabbits, from which domestic rabbits are descended, dig large underground burrows called enclosures. This instinct has not yet left our house rabbits.

Because of this, pet rabbit owners sometimes find that their rabbit is obsessed with the carpet. They dig, scratch and chew on it, trying to dig a tunnel in the non-existent soil. This behavior can be exacerbated by boredom, but it is perfectly normal.

Many rabbits don’t like the taste of carpet. Instead of swallowing it, they chew it and spit it out. If this is the case with your rabbit, it won’t harm him, although your carpet may suffer.

However, some rabbits will swallow bits of carpet when chewing it up. This is dangerous for two main reasons:

Carpets are usually made from synthetic fibers and treated with chemicals that can be toxic. Carpet fibers are not broken down in a rabbit’s intestines and are difficult to pass through. If your rabbit eats a lot of carpet, it can lead to gastrointestinal obstruction.

Although it may be instinctive, rabbits should not be allowed to chew carpets. The same applies to towels, blankets and other fabrics.

If practical, move your rabbit to an uncarpeted part of the house. Use baby gates or a large X-Pen to cordon off carpeted areas. Alternatively, lay some large, heavy tiles over any carpet in your rabbit’s area.

Can rabbits chew plastic?

Plastic is a man-made material that can be harmful if swallowed. It is extremely resilient and does not break down when ingested, nor does it biodegrade over time. A plastic bottle can take a thousand years to decompose — no wonder a rabbit’s gut can’t digest it.

Rabbits usually choose to chew on natural materials like wood and cardboard before attacking plastic. However, some rabbits can develop obsessive tendencies and will nibble on anything in sight. Boredom and lack of physical or mental stimulation can lead rabbits to chew plastic.

Common plastic objects that rabbits might chew on include:

litter box

plastic fences or cages

Plastic-coated cables, cable protection or hoses

video game and television controls

artificial grass or flowers

Plastic poses a problem for two main reasons. If the piece of plastic ingested is sharp, intestinal perforation can occur. If your rabbit eats an excessive amount of plastic or a large piece, it can lead to constipation.

Not all rabbits chew on plastic. But if your rabbit shows interest, remove or cover any plastic objects out of his reach.

If you find your rabbit chewing on a plastic toilet or something else, don’t panic. Monitor your rabbit closely over the next few days, including their eating and toileting habits and general behavior. If you’re concerned, take your rabbit to a veterinarian.

Can Rabbits Die From Wire Chewing?

One of the most dangerous things rabbits can chew on is electrical cords. Although they may not seem appetizing to you, most rabbits cannot resist the temptation. If you’ve ever let your rabbit loose in a room with exposed electrics, you know this firsthand.

There’s something about electrical cords that tempts rabbits like nothing else. But why do rabbits chew wire and how dangerous is it?

The reasons for this behavior can be explained by evolutionary instinct.

European rabbits, their ancestors, live in complex underground burrows. Occasionally, tree roots grow into their burrows and block their paths. Rabbits have learned to nibble on these roots as soon as they see them to keep their enclosures clear.

Our electric wires and cords look suspiciously like tree roots to rabbits. So when your pet rabbit sees a wire, they instinctively start chewing on it.

The dangers associated with rabbits chewing electrical cords are simple. Interference with an electrical current can result in shock or electric shock. Not only that, ingestion of plastic and metal can damage your rabbit’s digestive system.

Rabbits can die from chewing cords, so keep them strictly out of your bunnies’ reach. If you can’t keep your rabbit away from them, use hard plastic tubing to cover them.

Can rabbits chew on metal?

Rabbits do not instinctively eat metal. It offers them no food and is usually difficult to chew through. However, there are certain circumstances in which rabbits can chew on metal.

For example, pet rabbits that are housed in cages often chew on the metal bars of their cage. There are two main reasons your rabbit might chew on cage bars:

The bars are in the way of your rabbit. The bars block your rabbit’s access to the outside. Rabbits don’t understand that their cage locks them up on purpose. So they chew the bars to get out. Your rabbit is bored. Rabbits tend to chew obsessively when understimulated. If your rabbit doesn’t have anything better to do, they may end up chewing cage bars out of sheer boredom.

The main risk posed by chewing on metal sticks is possible tooth damage. Hard metals could chip your rabbit’s teeth. Softer metals can also be dangerous, as small pieces can perforate your rabbit’s stomach or cause a blockage.

The key to preventing rabbits from chewing metal is to keep it out of their reach. If that’s not possible, give them lots of other things to do. You can also cover the bars with a towel or blanket, but be careful that your rabbit chews on them instead.

Can rabbits chew walls?

We don’t often imagine rabbits chewing on our house itself. But the reality is that bored rabbits can and do chew on walls, baseboards and moldings, masonry and grout. Pica in rabbits is uncommon but certainly not unheard of.

As with chewing on metal, rabbits gnawing on brick and concrete can end up with chipped or chipped teeth. Also, some walls are built with chemicals that can be dangerous or toxic if ingested. You may find that the dust causes your rabbit to sneeze a lot.

The surest way to stop rabbits from chewing on walls is to limit their access to them. Place a large X-Pen for your rabbit in the center of a room, away from the walls.

You can also nail wooden planks to the base of the wall. Be sure to cover every part of the wall your rabbit can reach.

In combination with the above techniques, consider applying a bitter-tasting spray or soap to parts of the wall. This will not harm your rabbit if ingested, but it will taste unpleasant and discourage your rabbit from chewing.

Can rabbits eat houseplants?

Rabbits are programmed to eat any plant they come across. They do not instinctively know which plants are poisonous and which are harmless. Wild rabbits rely on the older members of their enclosure to keep them away from dangerous plants.

Domestic rabbits, unfortunately, do not have such instructions. So when a rabbit is confronted with a poisonous plant, instinct will be to eat it rather than avoid it.

Many common house and garden plants are poisonous to rabbits. For example, tulips, daffodils and all plants that are grown from a bulb are poisonous.

There is such a wide variety of houseplants that it is impossible to research them all. For this reason, consider all indoor plants dangerous for your rabbit. You should never let your rabbit chew on a houseplant, no matter how harmless it may seem.

The surest way to avoid this problem is not to keep indoor plants. If you have houseplants, keep them on high shelves where your rabbit can’t reach them. Alternatively, only keep plants in rooms that your rabbit cannot enter.

How do I stop my rabbit from chewing?

With their ever-growing teeth and desire to constantly graze, a rabbit’s urge to chew is rarely satiated. You can’t stop them from chewing, but you have to make sure they’re not chewing anything dangerous.

Rabbits do not respond to negative reinforcement or punishment. Yelling, hitting, or scolding your rabbit doesn’t do much good. Rabbits don’t associate punishment with “crimes”; Instead, they learn to fear those who punish them.

So instead of punishing, use the following methods to discourage your rabbit from chewing.

Remove dangerous objects from your rabbit’s reach. Keep anything that isn’t meant to be chewed out of reach or in another room. You can use baby gates to barricade certain areas.

. Keep anything that isn’t meant to be chewed out of reach or in another room. You can use baby gates to barricade certain areas. Encourage movement and play. Rabbits often chew out of boredom. Provide your rabbit with plenty of toys, attention, and exercise opportunities.

Rabbits often chew out of boredom. Provide your rabbit with plenty of toys, attention and… spaying and neutering. Forced chewing can be a side effect of a plethora of sex hormones. Getting your rabbit fixed can completely solve the problem.

Forced chewing can be a side effect of a plethora of sex hormones. Getting your rabbit fixed can completely solve the problem. positive reinforcement. When your rabbit is chewing on the right things, shower them with affection. If they’re chewing on something they shouldn’t, move them away and divert their attention.

When your rabbit is chewing on the right things, shower them with affection. If they’re chewing on something they shouldn’t, move them away and divert their attention. Bitter apple spray. This has a strong, unpleasant taste. Spray this on furniture or carpets to discourage your rabbit from chewing there.

All rabbits need to chew from time to time to keep their teeth filed. So always provide them with safe items to nibble on.

What can I give my rabbit to chew?

A rabbit determined to chew will find something to chew no matter what. Therefore, your rabbit should always have a suitable chew toy within reach.

For best results, place chew toys near areas your rabbit likes to chew on. For example, a toy near your dining table can distract your rabbit from chewing on the table legs. If you divert your rabbit’s attention, your problem should quickly resolve itself.

There are many rabbit-safe materials to chew on. For example:

Cardboard . Choose clean, undyed, uncoated cardstock that is not free of ink, glue, or other substances. Toilet paper rolls filled with hay are particularly exciting toys.

. Choose clean, undyed, uncoated cardstock that is not free of ink, glue, or other substances. Toilet paper rolls filled with hay are particularly exciting toys. Apple, aspen or willow branches. The wood should be clean, dried and untreated.

The wood should be clean, dried and untreated. pinecone. They should be dried and sterilized.

They should be dried and sterilized. Sisal rope toys. Sisal is tough enough to withstand heavy chewing and will not harm your rabbit.

Sisal is tough enough to withstand heavy chewing and will not harm your rabbit. Compressed hay blocks. These are harder to chew than loose hay and will therefore keep your rabbit busy for hours.

You can make chew toys yourself, order them online, or buy them at your local pet store. Rabbits get bored with toys easily, so change up their chew toys regularly.

Always give your rabbit unlimited hay to eat, but make sure the hay doesn’t go moldy. Rabbits love to chew on hay and it should make up 85% of their diet. If your rabbit has 24/7 access to hay, they will be less likely to chew on other things.

What is the behavior?

In the wild, rabbits live in burrows. A pen is a group of connected burrows in which a colony of rabbits lives. When we see rabbits digging, we usually imagine them trying to build a burrow. However, there are other reasons rabbits dig – to find food, to uncover cool earth to rest on, to try to escape, or to attract attention. Rabbits dig by loosening the soil with their front paws, pushing it under and behind them, and then turning and pushing it away in front of them. Females typically construct large burrows, while males are more likely to make scratches to mark (often urinating and defecating in the dug earth) and in which they lie in hot weather. Digging is a natural behavior

Why is it important?

Digging is a normal instinctive behavior that fulfills a number of rabbit welfare needs and uses its muscles in ways important to health. We want rabbits to be able to dig, but we don’t want them to escape either! That means we need to provide them with appropriate opportunities to express that behavior.

How can we get rabbits to exhibit this behavior?

Most of us cannot provide our rabbits with large areas of soil and peat to dig in the normal way whenever they want. However, we need to find ways that allow rabbits to exhibit this behavior.

If your rabbits live outside without wire under their feet, try creating an area for the rabbits to dig in. Recently turned, crumbly soil (a little sand to a clay soil will lighten it) often encourages this behavior. Scattering small pieces of vegetables or even partially burying them will also encourage rabbits to dig in the designated area. If your rabbits live outside in wire floor pens, or if your rabbits live indoors, then you need a different approach. You can build a burrow (at least twice the rabbit’s size to be able to move around) with a tall, large litter box, a children’s sandpit, or even concrete pads in a solid enclosure. Rabbits like to dig in dirt and sand – this is possible outside, but probably too messy for inside. Avoid litter tray substrates – some of these cause breathing problems in rabbits, and large pellets can be uncomfortable for rabbit paws. Instead, try providing a deep box of hay – your rabbit will likely dig through if you sprinkle some pellets in it. Burrowing facilities should be provided for pet rabbits

Allowing rabbits some time to supervise in an outdoor yard will give them a chance to dig in a normal way. You can bury wire in the ground around the edge of the yard or enclosure to deter rabbits from digging, and fold a wire skirt from the fence into the yard to act as a visual deterrent from digging (rabbits like to dig in corners or on edges).

Pet rabbits that repeatedly dig for carpets, floors, or curtains indicate that they are stressed and frustrated. This is often caused by insufficient wealth, lack of company, or poor health. Rabbits can also learn that digging in the “wrong” spots can get their owners’ attention – if this is the case, try to leave the room when the rabbit is digging and give a food reward if it follows you. If he doesn’t leave the room when you do, he’s probably not trying to get your attention.

Digging is an important instinctive natural behavior. Rabbits must be able to express this in order to have good welfare, but we must direct it appropriately so that the rabbit does not escape.

Rabbits are no frills about what they eat. Rabbits get bored easily and pass the time by chewing everything in their path. If there is paper in a rabbit hutch, chances are it will be eaten.

Your rabbit will get sick if they eat too much paper. Rabbits have specific dietary needs and require a large amount of fiber. No fibers are found in shredded paper or newspaper. They cannot digest paper properly, leading to constipation and internal blockages.

This does not mean that rabbits should be kept away from paper entirely. Rabbits have a natural instinct to dig, and paper gives them that opportunity. Rabbits also enjoy undertaking projects that take time, and paper shredding can accomplish this. We explain why your rabbit shouldn’t eat paper, but how it can be used to improve your rabbit’s living space.

Why is my rabbit eating paper?

Rabbits are usually more interesting playing with paper than eating it. Rabbits need stimulation and are always looking for a long-term challenge.

That doesn’t mean your rabbit won’t eat the paper when it’s done. Your rabbit may eat paper because it’s hungry. In this case, make sure that your animal is regularly supplied with fresh hay.

Your rabbit may also be lacking in fiber in their diet. This causes them to seek it out from alternative sources, including paper and cardboard. Paper does not meet your pet’s nutritional needs.

Your rabbit may be eating the paper out of boredom. A rabbit needs stimulation in the form of exercise, toys, and social interaction. If your rabbit lives alone, they are likely to become restless.

When in doubt, a rabbit entertains itself by chewing things. When they’re free at home, they’ll find cords and furniture to chew on.

Within a hutch, a rabbit is content with what it can find. Since many pet owners line their rabbit houses with newspaper or scraps of paper, they have access to this.

Will Eating Paper Make My Rabbit Sick?

The answer depends on how much paper your rabbit eats. A small amount shouldn’t have a drastic effect. Most rabbits tear the paper into shreds small enough to digest.

Like anything else, too much paper can be bad for a rabbit’s health. No matter how we look at it, paper is not edible. There are no benefits to eating it and many hidden health risks.

Rabbit Welfare discusses the digestive process of a rabbit. A rabbit’s intestines are designed to function with fibrous greens and grass. Paper isn’t one of those things. If your rabbit eats it too much, it can get sick.

The main danger when a rabbit eats paper is intestinal obstruction. Paper is not broken down in a rabbit’s digestive tract. If not swallowed in small pieces and quantities, it can cause constipation.

Constipation can be fatal to rabbits. Symptoms include:

Your rabbit refuses to eat his food or hay

or hay Your rabbit’s abdomen visibly swells

Your rabbit is bending over and clearly has a stomach ache

If you notice these warning signs, see a veterinarian. It doesn’t take long for constipation to become an emergency. Offer small amounts of vegetable oil as a first aid measure.

How can I stop my rabbit from eating paper?

The easiest way to prevent a rabbit from eating paper is to keep them away from their home. But paper is also a popular material for lining a rabbit hutch. Newspaper is particularly common. Alternative linings for a rabbit home include:

straw

hay

wood pellets

sawdust or pine shavings

When using these substrates, ensure adequate ventilation. While popular, these materials have been linked to liver disease and respiratory problems. They are less likely to harm your rabbit.

Making sure your rabbit’s basic needs are met will also reduce the likelihood that they will eat paper. This means making sure your rabbit has plenty of hay to eat and fiber.

You must also ensure that your rabbit has a rich, fulfilling social life. If you can’t introduce a second rabbit, spend time with him yourself. Rabbits get bored and depressed when left alone. They fill that gap by eating.

Toys are also of central importance for a rabbit. If your rabbit has enough toys to keep them entertained, they are far less likely to resort to paper. Fill their home with things to chew and hide.

Can rabbits eat paper with ink?

There’s something very satisfying about recycling bills and paperwork around your rabbit’s house. It’s also safer than throwing personal information straight into the trash.

However, you must be careful with the ink used on this paper. Some inks are poisonous to small animals. While most modern inks are now safer, it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

The most dangerous ink for rabbits can be found on brochures and leaflets. These mass-produced means of communication tend to use cheaper, potentially toxic ink. Even high quality brochures are a problem due to the waxy nature of the paper.

Another thing to consider is that ink can stain your rabbit’s fur. If your pet is white, it may not stay that way. Don’t be surprised if your bunny’s bright white paws turn a dusky shade of grey. That’s the last thing you want, especially if your rabbit’s paws and fur are soiled with urine.

Is newspaper ink poisonous to rabbits?

Newspaper remains the most popular paper for rabbit hutches. You can read your newspaper at breakfast and line your rabbit’s house at lunchtime. It’s a great way to recycle, but is it safe?

As with most paper-based communications, newspapers are typically printed using secure ink. While older inks used petroleum as a base, soy and water are more common today.

However, you should always test this theory by exposing your rabbit to printed matter. Rub your finger across the ink. Does it smear and come off on your finger? Does it stubbornly stick to your finger when you try to wash it off? If so, this ink is petroleum based and needs to be kept away from rabbits.

Petroleum-based ink never fully dries. Plus, it contains the same oils that a car mechanic would use. It is unsafe to line your rabbit’s home with these inks.

Can you put shredded paper in a rabbit hutch?

In many ways, shredded paper is safer than whole paper. It will already be in smaller pieces. This means your rabbit is less likely to cause an intestinal obstruction if your rabbit swallows the paper.

In addition, the shredded paper minimizes the impact of ink. After the paper has passed through a paper shredder, the ink is evenly distributed in tiny amounts.

Nevertheless, shredded paper alone as a base (litter) is unsafe. The British Rabbit Council only recommends using shredded paper under straw or hay.

One option is to give your rabbit safe paper so they can shred themselves. Many rabbits will enjoy this. It gives them something to do and they can use the scraps for nesting.

Take the yellow pages or the telephone book, for example. If these act as door stops in your home, consider offering them to your rabbit. You’ll have hours of fun shredding these books and digging amidst their trail of destruction.

Can rabbits eat paper bags?

Paper bags are great fun for rabbits. These items can be attached to a rabbit cage and used as toys. Your bunny can chew, shred and hide in the paper bag.

As always, there are caveats to this. A paper bag is not easy to digest. They’re big and they’re tough. Like any paper, this will potentially cause stomach upset in your rabbit.

It is best to fill a paper bag with hay or straw. This will help your rabbit enjoy everything the bag has to offer alongside a safe source of food.

There’s nothing wrong with your rabbit enjoying playtime with a paper bag, but use caution. If they show more desire to eat the bag than their regular food, take it away.

Can rabbits eat toilet paper?

Of all the forms out there, toilet paper is the least harmful to a rabbit’s intestines. That doesn’t mean it’s good for your rabbit. Don’t offer a rabbit toilet paper as a snack instead of celery.

If they nibble toilet paper on a corner, it’s not the end of the world. This material packs up much smaller than a traditional sheet of paper. This will make it easier for your rabbit to pass.

When you’re done with a toilet paper roll, the tube is a great toy for rabbits. Your pet will enjoy chewing it and pushing it around their coop.

You can also fill the toilet paper roll with hay, straw or treats. You could even glue chopsticks to the toilet paper roll to create a makeshift toy.

Can rabbits eat paper towels?

While toilet paper isn’t necessarily a problem for rabbits, paper towels aren’t. If you use a sturdy and absorbent kitchen towel, it can be difficult for your rabbit to digest.

Just like toilet paper, the box around which paper towels are wrapped is a versatile toy. Just make sure all traces of the paper towel have been removed before offering it to your rabbit.

Napkins are best avoided altogether. Your rabbit may enjoy using these for a variety of reasons. A napkin can be a makeshift blanket or shredded for fun. If eaten, it is dangerous.

This is because napkins are chewy and difficult to swallow. While a rabbit likes to chew for long periods of time, the problem comes with swallowing. Napkins are not easy for your rabbit to digest.

Also, most napkins are heavily colored as a decorative feature. If you’re not sure this dye is safe for rabbits, keep them away.

Is Cardboard Safer Than Paper for Rabbits?

Cardboard is more dangerous for your rabbit to eat. It is thicker and more stable than paper and therefore even harder to digest.

Luckily, this means your rabbit is less likely to eat excessive amounts of cardboard. They spend so much time and energy chewing and destroying that they may be too tired to eat.

Cardboard makes a great makeshift toy for a rabbit and will keep them happy for hours. Just watch your pet.

Chewing cardboard is a good thing. It will keep your rabbit entertained and prevent their teeth from becoming too sharp. However, consumption is potentially dangerous and must be discouraged.

Rabbits and paper don’t necessarily make easy bedfellows. If you can use alternative materials for bedding and entertainment, do so. But paper can be a useful addition to your rabbit’s life.

It is important that your rabbit uses paper for entertainment and not for food. Nothing good will come from your rabbit eating paper.

What should rabbits eat?

New to keeping rabbits or just want to make sure you are giving your pets the best possible nutrition? This guide will give you an overview of what your rabbits need to eat each day to keep them healthy and happy.

Fresh, clean water 24 hours a day

Make sure your rabbits have constant access to fresh, clean water.

Give water as you are used to – e.g. in a heavy ceramic bowl or dropper bottle. Rabbits prefer water bowls

– e.g. in a heavy ceramic bowl or a dropper bottle. Rabbits prefer water bowls Make sure the water is algae-free in the summer

in summer Make sure it doesn’t freeze in winter

in the winter Check the bottles – if you use bottles, check them every day to make sure your rabbits have access to the water and the end isn’t clogged

hay and grass daily

Rabbits need at least one bundle of good quality hay every day, and it should be as big as themselves!

Make sure they always have hay – good, fresh hay should be available at all times

– Good quality, fresh hay should be available at all times Let them graze – Ideally, rabbits should have access to growing grass for grazing or kiln dried grass

– Ideally, rabbits should have access to growing grass for grazing or oven-dried grass. Do not feed lawn mower clippings as this can make your rabbits sick

leafy greens daily

Rabbits need to have a handful of safe, washed, adult-sized leafy green vegetables, herbs, and weeds daily.

Feed a variety of greens daily – ideally 5-6 different types, such as cabbage, kale, broccoli, parsley and mint

– ideally 5-6 different types, such as cabbage, kale, broccoli, parsley and mint. Introduce new types of vegetables gradually in small amounts to avoid possible stomach upset

Learn more at Rabbit-Safe Plants, Vegetables, Herbs, and Fruits. Your veterinarian can also advise you on rabbit-safe plants. If in doubt, leave it out!

pellets

Feed your rabbits a small amount of good quality pellets or nuggets daily.

Feed them the right amount – measure 25g (an egg cup full) of pellets per kg of your rabbit’s body weight. For example, for a medium-sized rabbit (2 kg), feed a maximum of two full egg cups.

– Measure 25g (an egg cup full) of pellets per kg of your rabbit’s body weight. For example, for a medium-sized rabbit (2 kg), feed a maximum of two full egg cups. Cereal-style food is not recommended for rabbits – see why cereal is unhealthy for rabbits and learn how to slowly transition your rabbits to a healthier diet.

Healthy Treats

They can use part of their daily ration of veggies, pellets or nuggets as treats and rewards during exercise. Carrots and apples are fine as occasional treats in small amounts, but do not feed other treats as they can harm your rabbit. Learn more about how to make your rabbits enjoy feeding time.

Best Tips

You look outside, observe the view and notice a couple of wild rabbits nibbling on the grass in your yard. This makes you wonder about your own rabbit. Why do we feed them dried hay when there is so much fresh grass? It seems to be a natural way for rabbits to eat, so shouldn’t our pet rabbits be able to eat grass too?

House rabbits can eat grass in large quantities without hesitation. Quality grass contains vitamins, nutrients and fiber that support a rabbit’s digestive system. However, a sudden change in diet can lead to illness. Introduce weed slowly to avoid digestive problems.

While rabbits are safe to feed grass, that doesn’t mean you should switch them to an all-grass diet overnight. The cellular structure of grass changes as it dries. If your rabbit is used to a hay (dry grass) diet, their digestive system will need time to adjust to a diet that consists primarily of fresh grass.

It’s also important to consider practicality when feeding your rabbit a fresh grass diet. It would be difficult for most people to grow enough grass to feed a rabbit all summer unless they also provide some extra hay.

Important: This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon, Small Pet Select, and Chewy.com affiliate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.

The benefits of grass in rabbit nutrition

Grass is an excellent addition to any rabbit’s diet. In fact, the grass-based hay we feed our rabbits on a daily basis (you guessed it!) is basically just dried grass. Although they are essentially the same foods, they are not exactly the same at the nutritional level.

During the drying process, many nutrients and vitamins are removed from the grass. This means fresh grass has a much richer variety and denser amount of healthy vitamins and minerals than dried hay. In addition, fresh weed contains more water and can help you stay hydrated. By eating fresh grass, rabbits can get much of the natural water they need from their diet and not have to drink as much from their water bowl.

Fresh grass is also great for rabbit dental health. Grass has a coating of silica that sucks it up from the ground around it to create a rough, spiky surface. This layer is microscopic, making it too small to see with the naked eye, but it still plays an important role in grinding against rabbit teeth to keep them from growing too long. Overgrown rabbit teeth are one of the most common pet rabbit health problems.

Hay also gets this silica layer, which is why hay is also known to be good for buck teeth. But this layer of silica tends to be rougher and stronger in fresh grass, making it much better at keeping rabbit teeth from overgrowing.

You can safely let your rabbit roam outside in your yard by training them with the harness or by creating an isolated outdoor rabbit run.

Can rabbits eat grass instead of hay?

If grass is basically just fresh hay with more nutrients intact, why not just feed rabbits grass in their regular diet? In the wild, it is common for rabbits to graze on grass throughout the day, which makes up a large portion of their total diet. Rabbit bodies and digestions are able to thrive on a diet of fresh grass, but it’s not usually an easy arrangement for rabbit keepers. Grass doesn’t grow year-round for rabbits to eat, and a sudden transition from dried hay to fresh grass can unbalance a rabbit’s digestion and cause health problems.

If you want to feed your rabbit fresh grass, you need to be cautious about these changes and be prepared to make them each year as the seasons change. Most people choose to eat a dried hay diet with some fresh grass clippings for variety and nutrients, rather than an all-grass diet.

Conversion of a rabbit to a fresh grass-based diet

Rabbits can eat grass instead of hay, but it’s not a change that should be made overnight. This type of big change in a rabbit’s diet needs to be made in a gradual transition over the course of a few weeks. Hay’s cell structure is stiffer than fresh grass, which means it is digested in very different ways. A sudden change would certainly cause digestive problems like GI stasis or loose stools.

For the first few days, you should only give your rabbit a few handfuls of fresh grass clippings. Alternatively, you can give them about 15 minutes on the lawn to munch on fresh grass. Slowly increase the amount of grass you mow for your rabbit, or the time they have for foraging and nibbling grass in the yard. Of course, as they eat more fresh grass, they will eat less hay until you hardly have to feed them any more on a daily basis.

Access to hay vs. grass

Before you decide to switch to a weed diet, it’s also important to think about the practicality of your decision. To keep a rabbit fed and fed you would need lots of grass, all year round. Even during the spring and summer months, it would be difficult to feed a rabbit fresh grass instead of hay unless they have access to a large lawn. Even then, you must maintain your lawn in a way that is safe for your rabbit (see Lawn Care section below).

Hay is conveniently dried and can be stored all year round. There is little concern that it will spoil or die. This way you can give your rabbit a high fiber diet (which their digestion needs) all year round.

If you plan to give your rabbit a large amount of grass in their diet, I recommend continuing to keep them on a partial dry timothy hay diet. During the spring and summer months, give them both grass and hay. Then it will be easier to switch them back to hay in the fall and winter.

Lawn care considerations when feeding grass to rabbits

If you want to allow your rabbit to eat grass off your lawn, there are a few precautions you need to take to make sure it’s safe. Pretty much any type of grass imaginable is fine for your rabbit, but many lawns are treated in ways that could poison them.

You want to keep a lawn as natural and organic as possible. Do not use any pesticides at all as almost all types of chemical pesticides are toxic to rabbits. You should also pay attention to the fertilizer you use. Natural fertilizers are generally fine, but many commercial types contain chemicals or even pesticides.

You also need to consider what wildlife has access to the grass you are feeding your rabbit. Some wild animals’ urine can transmit disease, so it’s best to try to prevent animals (including neighborhood dogs) from urinating on your rabbit’s grass.

You can do this by cutting grass for your rabbit and washing it just like you would regular leafy greens before giving it to your rabbit. If your rabbit has roaming access to the lawn, this is a little more difficult. The best thing you can do is try to prevent wild animals from entering the rabbit area by adding fencing to create an isolated rabbit run.

You should also avoid giving your rabbit clippings from a lawnmower. When grass is cut in a lawnmower, it goes through a short period of very high heat next to the lawnmower engine. This causes the grass blades to ferment much faster than typical fresh grass, making them dangerous for rabbits to eat.

If you don’t have access to a garden, you can still grow grass for your rabbit by using a flower box in the window.

Grow your own grass inside

Even if you don’t have a lawn, you can still grow weed in your house or apartment by taking advantage of the sunlight from your windows. While I love the idea of ​​growing a garden for my rabbit to give her tasty, fresh treats all the time, I’ve never been great with plants. I’m having trouble keeping even the most resilient plants alive, but even I can grow some weed!

I found a little wheatgrass pet grow kit and decided to give it a try and see if I could grow some of this for my rabbit. It comes with soil, seeds and instructions. After watering the seeds, I only had to wait a few days before I started seeing little blades of grass emerge. After a few weeks I was able to cut off some blades for my rabbit to eat too much of.

I was only able to find this particular brand of wheatgrass grow kits at Small Pet Select (my favorite natural rabbit toy and hay store). The Pet Greens Meadow is pretty cheap there (check the current price) and you get 15% off your purchase when you use the code BUNNYLADY at checkout.

What grass can rabbits eat?

Rabbits can eat almost any type of grass. The best grass types are the types used to make dry grass hay (timothy hay, orchard hay, oat hay, etc.). However, these are not typically the species used for lawns as they tend to grow very tall.

Grasses used for lawns are typically grown with the bigger picture in mind and not for rabbit nutrition. They are safe for rabbits, but provide limited nutrition for your rabbit. To give your rabbit the most nutritious lawn they can have, try planting and scattering a few different types of grass seed. You can turn your lawn into more of a delicious pasture that naturally grows different types of grass.

Another advantage of designing your lawn like a meadow or pasture is that you can let wild plants grow. Plants that we think of as weeds, like dandelions and clover, are actually quite nutritious for rabbits. You can also plant different herbs, like mint or basil, so your rabbit can browse the plants on the lawn and find those hidden, healthy treats.

If you are growing your own weed in a planter or planter for your rabbit, the easiest species to find are wheatgrass or meadow grass. These tend to have a higher nutritional value for rabbits than typical lawn grass seeds.

Safe grass species for rabbits include (but are not limited to):

wheatgrass

meadow grass

Bermuda grass

bluegrass

ryegrass

Bentgrass

fescue grass

orchard grass

timothy grass

oat grass

Can Rabbits Eat Wet Grass?

I’m not entirely sure where this myth came from, but you’ll see plenty of posts on the internet advising you not to feed wet grass (and other wet greens) to rabbits as it will cause an upset stomach or loose stools. As a result, rabbit keepers avoid feeding their rabbit grass with raindrops or dew on the stalks and make sure to thoroughly dry any fresh greens they give their rabbits.

That’s just unnecessary. Extra water on grass and leafy greens is just extra water. It can actually help rabbits stay better hydrated, especially during the hot summer months. Don’t worry about dew on grass or droplets left after washing. It’s still safe and even healthy for your rabbit to eat.

The only possible source I can find for this myth is that wet vegetables will start to ferment if left in water for a long time. This would be a precaution you might need to take if you’re looking for leafy greens near a lake or river, but in general there’s nothing to worry about if you’re giving your rabbit fresh grass from your lawn.

Young rabbits (less than 6 months old) are also more likely to have digestive problems if given a lot of fresh food at one time. However, this is due to a still developing digestive system and has nothing to do with added water droplets on fresh greens or grass.

Can rabbits eat grass seed?

I wouldn’t normally give grass seed as a treat to rabbits, but a small amount wouldn’t harm them. Too much weed seed can lead to weight gain or an imbalance in the digestive tract, so it’s best to avoid it or keep it to a minimum.

If you’re concerned that your rabbit might try to dig up and eat grass seed that you just planted, you can try sectioning off the area until the grass has had time to grow. Many rabbits will happily dig up and munch on seeds or munch on new shoots, making it difficult to grow grass in an area where your rabbit has access to it. It’s also a good idea to get uncoated or untreated seeds just in case your rabbit manages to get to them and eat them.

Tips and Tricks Newsletter If you’re new to keeping rabbits, check out Bunny Lady’s bi-monthly newsletter. Once you sign up, you will receive a FREE Rabbit Care Guide in PDF format. I’ve put together a guide that covers all the basics of rabbit care so you have everything in one place. Then get rabbit care tips and tricks delivered straight to your inbox, so you know you’ll be taking excellent care of your new rabbit. SIGN IN

Sources

The first six months of a rabbit’s life are critical to its long-term health. At this key stage in their development, a rabbit is constantly growing. Your diet must reflect this fact. Ensuring your baby rabbit is adequately nourished means healthy bones and muscle mass well into adulthood.

Hay and water are important foods. Baby rabbits need more protein, so feed them pellets and alfalfa hay. Your rabbit should be weaned. If not, use kitten or goat milk to mimic their mother’s milk.

Be sure to introduce good eating habits to a baby rabbit. It’s tempting to overfeed young rabbits, but this can lead to obesity later in life. When the growth spurts subside, your rabbit will need less protein and more fiber. We explain to you what the optimal nutrition plan for a rabbit baby looks like. You should also read our comprehensive guide to caring for baby rabbits.

What do baby rabbits eat and drink?

New owners are sometimes surprised to learn what baby rabbits eat. Excess carrots and iceberg lettuce can cause health problems. Instead, domesticated rabbits primarily feed on hay.

This replicates the experience of wild rabbits grazing on grass all day. It would be impossible to provide a pet rabbit with enough grass to support itself. Hay is a substitute, and pet rabbits nibble on it all day.

In addition to hay, rabbits enjoy fresh fruit and vegetables and special pellets. The former must be offered sparingly. Too many vegetables can cause stomach upset.

Pellets are also optional once a rabbit reaches adulthood. Pellets are vital for young rabbits and baby rabbits as they provide a range of vitamins and nutrients. They are also high in calories. Pellets must be reduced as the rabbit ages. Don’t panic if your rabbit has stopped eating pellets.

Hydration is just as important for a rabbit. Rabbits must always have access to fresh water. They can offer this in a bowl or bottle attached to their hutch.

What to feed domestic rabbits

The three core elements of a rabbit’s diet are pellets, hay and fresh vegetables. If we had to draw a diagram of a rabbit’s needs, hay would be the most important.

This is because a rabbit’s digestive tract is designed to process the fibers found in the grass. There are different types of hay, each with slightly different qualities.

Grass Hay (also known as Meadow Hay or Timothy Hay). This is the most popular hay feed among rabbit keepers. This hay is fresh grass that has been cut and dried. This means it replicates the diet of a wild rabbit.

This is the most popular hay feed among rabbit keepers. This hay is fresh grass that has been cut and dried. This means it replicates the diet of a wild rabbit. oat hay. This hay consists of oat grass, which is harvested before flowering. Once the oats bloom, this hay no longer contains any nutritional value for a rabbit. However, it can be used as bedding.

. This hay consists of oat grass, which is harvested before flowering. Once the oats bloom, this hay no longer contains any nutritional value for a rabbit. However, it can be used as bedding. Alfalfa Hay. This is a little different; it is more of a legume than a grass. Alfalfa hay is usually fed to larger animals. It contains more protein and calcium than other types of hay and therefore leads to weight gain.

Pellets are considered an essential part of rabbit nutrition. However, many claim that pellets are unnecessary for adult rabbits and are just empty calories.

If your rabbit looks overweight, pellets should be sacrificed. Adult rabbits can happily subsist on hay alone. However, pellets are essential to help a young rabbit grow.

These should always be kept as a treat, especially fruit. Rabbits love sweet tastes, so they enjoy berries, raisins, parsnips, and carrots. However, your body is not designed to process carbohydrates.

A rabbit can enjoy a tablespoon of fresh fruits and vegetables for every 2 pounds. their body weight.

Again, an overweight rabbit should not be given fruit and vegetables for a period of time. Rabbits don’t necessarily need these to thrive. They get all the vitamins they need from the hay.

Baby Rabbit Feeding Guide

Young rabbits need to eat more as they are constantly growing. Baby rabbits also use food to keep warm before their first moult. Here is some information on when baby rabbits start to fur.

Baby rabbits’ diets will constantly adjust as they grow. They start eating firm hay at around 2 weeks of age. However, this is supplemented by breast milk. At 4 weeks, baby rabbits are eating pellets and hay.

Feed a baby rabbit alfalfa hay. The protein and calcium they contain helps them build strong muscles and bones. But also mix in some normal hay. This will ease the transition as your rabbit reaches adulthood.

You should also make sure you are eating pellets specifically designed for young rabbits. These offer everything a growing bunny needs.

Whatever you decide to feed your baby rabbit, be consistent. All rabbits are sensitive to changes in diet, but young rabbits are especially so. Do not hack and alter unless absolutely necessary.

Baby Rabbit Food List

Before you even bring your rabbit home, it’s a good idea to make a grocery list. Healthy food for baby rabbits is vital, so don’t make the best guesses once they arrive.

You must buy hay in advance. Prioritize alfalfa hay, but also get traditional meadow hay. Your rabbit can’t eat alfalfa hay forever, so don’t let them get too attached to the taste.

You also need pellets. Talk to a salesperson at your local pet store and get the ideal pellets for your rabbit. There will be numerous options tailored to different life stages.

Avoid the temptation to buy a huge bag of pellets. You may be told that baby rabbits can eat pellets indefinitely. Pellets can mold quite quickly. Smaller bags are preferred.

pellets

It is advisable to include pellets in your baby rabbit’s diet. These will help your young bunny grow up happy and healthy. However, both quality and quantity should be managed carefully.

Be wary of claims that baby rabbits can eat pellets indefinitely. Theoretically that is correct. A bunny’s ever-growing body can handle the calories it burns while it’s still young.

Still, this will teach your rabbit bad habits. You will get used to having pellets on hand at all times. If you remove this option as an adult, they become desperate. It is better to teach a young rabbit to enjoy hay early on.

Also, make sure you’re picking up the highest possible pellets. They should be at least 22% fiber. Protein should not be more than 14%. Avoid anything with more than 1% calcium as it can be harmful.

Don’t be tempted by muesli pellets. These will be tastier since they contain nuts and seeds. A baby rabbit will seek out the low-nutrient fun ingredients and ignore the rest.

hay

Alfalfa hay is ideal for baby rabbits. For the first few months of its life, a rabbit will enjoy the protein in this hay. Because pellets also contain alfalfa, your baby bunny will be in good health.

While alfalfa hay is good for baby rabbits, it shouldn’t be all they have. Aim for a ratio of around 60:40 and mix alfalfa with traditional grass hay. This only makes the eventual transition to meadow hay less disturbing.

Another thing to remember is that your rabbit’s hutch will be filled with hay. You will sleep on it and generally surround yourself with the substance. This also means your rabbit will pee and poop in their hay.

Because baby bunnies have immature brains and bladders, it takes a while for them to get used to bedding. This has to be handled with care. Urine can mold hay, and moldy hay is poisonous to rabbits. Clean their coop regularly.

It is important that your baby rabbit sees hay as a source of joy. Get in the habit of grazing on hay as early as possible. Incorporate it into playtime and practice.

Fresh fruits and vegetables

In the past, conventional wisdom dictated that baby rabbits should not be fed fresh food. Because young rabbits have a particularly sensitive digestive tract. The truth is, fresh fruits and vegetables are fine in moderation.

The misconception that fresh vegetables are dangerous for baby rabbits arose from a lack of education. Feeding a rabbit vegetables that are not age appropriate will cause an upset stomach. A rabbit takes time to adjust to diet changes.

When you bring home a baby rabbit, you will learn what fresh food his mother enjoyed. As soon as the rabbit was 4 weeks old, he would have nibbled on these vegetables too. Their stomachs will be able to handle them in small doses.

Fresh vegetables also help a young rabbit control the size of their teeth. Rabbit teeth never stop growing. They are filed by crunching on tough, firm vegetables.

Fruit is best avoided in baby rabbits unless used as a training treat. Offer small amounts of vegetables as a reward once your rabbit has eaten enough hay.

Should I give rabbit meat to a baby?

Meat must be avoided. While baby bunnies need protein, they don’t need meat. You suffer from an excess of protein and get an upset stomach as a result.

Your rabbit may develop a taste for meat. A little won’t kill them, but it will make them uncomfortable. A rabbit’s digestion is designed to process fiber, not protein. The older they get, the more problematic this becomes.

Rabbits are herbivores. They don’t want or need to eat meat. Babies are no exception to this rule.

Can baby rabbits drink water?

Baby rabbits can drink water. It should be actively encouraged.

Rabbits begin to hydrate from their mother’s water source at around 3 weeks of age. As baby rabbits eat more dry food, water becomes especially important. You need to hydrate regularly to stay healthy.

It’s important to know how much your baby rabbit likes to drink. Some rabbits find bottled water funny. Others prefer to lick from a bowl. Encourage your pet to drink the way they prefer.

If you use a bowl, make sure it’s heavy and flat. Baby rabbits are playful and curious. If they can, they splash around in the water. This can mold their hay and wet rabbits experience a drop in body temperature.

Can baby rabbits drink cow’s milk?

Baby rabbits drink milk from their mother until they are 8 weeks old. Before that, a rabbit should never be separated from its mother. If a breeder offers you a rabbit less than 8 weeks old, walk away.

If you must provide milk to a rabbit, do not use cow’s milk. That’s too high in calcium. The closest equivalent is kitten milk. Warm goat milk is suitable in a pinch.

However, rabbit milk contains more calories than cat milk. As a result, mix in a tablespoon of sugar-free whipped cream. Baby rabbits should be fed milk twice a day.

Also, don’t forget that baby rabbits aren’t just fed milk. Once they reach 2 weeks, they also need water and solid food. If these are not provided, a rabbit will become malnourished.

How can I tell if my baby rabbit’s diet is healthy?

Young rabbits need regular sleep, but in between they are full of energy. If your young rabbit is lethargic, it could be due to a lack of food.

Another way to check a rabbit’s condition is through its droppings. Rabbit droppings are a good way to assess your rabbit’s digestive health. Rabbits produce two types of feces:

Pellets that are scattered around their cage.

Cecotropes, these are bundles of feces that the rabbit eats.

A healthy poop pellet is light brown in color and will crumble when ingested. If your rabbit’s poop pellets are dark, this indicates that they are eating too much protein.

Diarrhea in a baby rabbit is a medical emergency. This condition can be fatal within hours. Provide University of Miami-recommended first aid and make an urgent vet appointment.

My baby rabbit eats too fast

This is nothing to worry about. Even if it causes hiccups, they go away in a short time.

The number one reason baby rabbits eat quickly is food insecurity. Until they get into a strict routine, rabbits worry about when they will be fed. They will eat food if they run out.

Rabbits that share a hutch eat particularly quickly. They will worry that another, older rabbit will eat their share.

Also remember that baby rabbits are always growing. That means they’ll be hungry pretty much all the time. Once they establish a routine, they will settle down.

My baby rabbit is not eating

If your baby rabbit refuses to eat, it’s important to find out why. A rabbit that won’t eat at any age is worrying. This goes double when the rabbit is young.

A young rabbit who eats less in adulthood is not so worrying. As they get older, rabbits need fewer calories. They may switch to eating more hay than pellets. That is a good thing. However, do not let them eat too much alfalfa hay.

You should also check that your rabbit isn’t just being stubborn. If you’ve changed their diet, they may be on the lookout for a favorite. This needs to be managed carefully.

Baby rabbits need to eat, but if you give in too quickly you’ll set a dangerous precedent. They will refuse to eat anything they don’t like well into adulthood.

First move the bowl around. If a rabbit feels a draft, it will discourage it from eating. Food that is too close to a preferred elimination site will also discourage a rabbit from eating. Rabbit urine has an overpowering odor.

Also, make sure your baby rabbit isn’t anxious. Being separated from mother and siblings can be stressful. Provide lots of TLC and a welcoming home environment to help your rabbit settle down.

Neutering or spaying young rabbits also leads to behavioral changes. Your rabbit may temporarily lose their appetite. This should pass quickly. Watch them and it is necessary to take action.

Alternative food for baby rabbits

If your baby rabbit refuses to eat, you need to offer the formula. This is often easier said than done. Seek professional help to ensure your rabbit is adequately fed.

Use cat or goat milk if you can’t source rabbit-specific milk. Zooh Corner recommends feeding milk in the following amounts at least twice a day. If your rabbit isn’t eating hay or pellets, it needs more:

1-2 weeks old – 10-15 cc

10 – 15 cubic centimeters 2 – 3 weeks of life – 15 – 30 cubic centimeters

15 – 30 cc 3 – 8 weeks of life – 30 cc

You can take a syringe to provide this milk from a pet store. However, many baby rabbits will not accept this. Rabbit-loving suppliers will stock a product called Miracle Nipple. This mimics the nursing experience.

However, this is not a permanent solution. You must find out why your rabbit is not eating and solve the problem.

Feeding a baby rabbit is very similar to feeding an adult equivalent. Young rabbits eat more and show more interest in pellets.

The most important thing is to teach your rabbit good eating habits. As with any animal, a rabbit’s formative experiences play a significant role in their adult personality.

Help a rabbit eat appropriately from a young age and they will reach adulthood in a healthy state. From there you can enjoy a long and happy relationship.

February 15, 2021

Foods rabbits should never eat

by Dianne Cook, LVT

Rabbits are eating machines! Thanks to their unique physiology, these remarkable little herbivores must consume a near-constant intake of fiber to keep their specialized digestive tract functioning properly. However, just because rabbits are herbivores doesn’t mean they can eat all kinds of vegetables, greens, and fruits. Their unique nutritional requirements also make many “human treats” (and even some marketed for rabbits) unsuitable, as they can lead to serious health problems if consumed.

The following list includes the most common foods that should never be fed to rabbits, but it’s always best to check with your favorite rabbit-savvy vet before adding any new food to your rabbit. Likewise, if your rabbit ever swallows any of the products listed below (regardless of the amount), call your vet immediately.

avocados

chocolate

fruit seeds/seeds

Raw Onions, Leeks, Garlic

Meat, eggs, dairy products

broad beans and kidney beans

rhubarb

iceberg lettuce

Mushrooms

indoor plants

Processed foods (bread, pasta, cookies, crackers, chips, etc.)

Raw potatoes

avocados

Although avocados are an excellent, healthy snack for humans, they contain a compound called persin that can be dangerously toxic to rabbits. This compound is found in all parts of the avocado: skin, stone, leaves and pulp. If a rabbit ingests toxic levels of persin, it can cause behavioral problems and breathing difficulties and, if not treated properly, can lead to congestive heart failure (fluid around the heart), which can prove fatal.

chocolate

As with many other members of the animal kingdom, chocolate is incredibly toxic to rabbits. This popular human treat contains theobromine and caffeine, both of which can be very harmful to our furry friends. The darker the chocolate, the higher the risk of toxicity. Signs of chocolate toxicity include diarrhea, restlessness or hyperactivity, tremors, wheezing, wheezing, or difficulty in getting comfortable, tachycardia (increased heart rate), and hyperthermia (increased temperature). Without prompt treatment, chocolate toxicity can prove fatal.

fruit seeds/pits

Be sure to remove all seeds and seeds before offering your rabbit any fruit. While feeding small amounts of the pulp of many fruits is absolutely harmless, the seeds and pips of many types of fruit contain traces of cyanide. Apples and pears are the most notorious examples, but the pits of apricots, peaches, plums, and mangoes contain cyanide, as do cherry pits. Although the amount of cyanide found in fruit seeds and pits is generally small, it’s best not to feed them to rabbits at all.

Raw Onions, Leeks, Garlic

Raw leek vegetables like onions, leeks, and garlic contain an oxidizing agent called n-propyl disulfide that likes to attach itself to red blood cells. While humans are relatively unaffected by this oxidant, rabbits are more susceptible to “oxidative damage.” As the body tries to rid the blood of the unrecognized oxidant, it destroys the red blood cells in the process. This leads to a condition called hemolytic anemia, which can be fatal if not treated promptly and aggressively. Symptoms of hemolytic anemia include pale gums, ataxia (stumbling), weakness, disinterest in food or water, and lethargy.

Meat, eggs, dairy products

While this probably won’t come as a surprise, it’s worth noting that being herbivores, rabbits should never be offered meat, eggs, or dairy. Unlike carnivores or omnivores, whose digestive systems are designed to properly digest animal protein, rabbits’ delicate gastrointestinal tracts are specially equipped to break down low-fat, high-fiber vegetation.

Although most rabbits would turn their noses up at a piece of steak, they have a notorious sweet tooth and often find yogurt drops (or other dairy products) tempting. While it may seem harmless to offer a sweet, dairy-rich treat from time to time, it can cause gastrointestinal upset and significantly increase the risk of obesity or dysbiosis (microbiome disruption). For these reasons, it’s best not to feed rabbits products that contain meat, eggs, dairy, or other animal proteins.

broad beans and kidney beans

Broad beans (aka field beans) and kidney beans are very high in carbohydrates and can upset your rabbit’s delicate gastrointestinal system, resulting in loose stools or diarrhea, abdominal discomfort, bloating, and even upset gastrointestinal (gastrointestinal) bacterial flora ( dysbiosis). They also contain high levels of phosphorus and calcium and tend to be quite acidic, making them unsuitable for rabbits’ unique dietary needs.

rhubarb

This tart vegetable contains an impressive concentration of a compound called oxalic acid in all parts of the plant. While oxalic acid is not toxic when consumed in small amounts, when administered in excess it can interfere with calcium absorption and lead to other unpleasant toxic effects. Rabbits experiencing oxalic acid toxicity may experience a swollen, painful mouth, decreased appetite, bloating and abdominal discomfort, diarrhea, and lethargy.

iceberg lettuce

While there are several varieties of dark leaf lettuces (like romaine and green leaf) that make wonderful staples in a balanced rabbit diet, light-colored lettuces like Iceberg contain a chemical called lactucarium that can be harmful to rabbits if ingested in large amounts. Also, iceberg lettuce is far from nutritious and adds no nutritional value to a rabbit’s diet. Best to avoid.

Mushrooms

When people think of poisonous mushrooms, they often picture the toadstools that have mysteriously appeared in their gardens overnight. Although these wild mushrooms can be dangerous, home-bought mushrooms should not be fed to rabbits. Mushrooms can contain a variety of mycotoxins that remain in the mushrooms, raw or cooked, and can be harmful to rabbits if ingested in large enough amounts. Effects of fungal toxicity can include diarrhea, gastrointestinal distress, organ damage, and neurological deficits.

indoor plants

If you’re adding a houseplant to the home, it’s safest to treat it as if it’s poisonous to your rabbit. Even if the plant you bought has been proven safe for rabbits, it’s often difficult to determine whether or not it has been (directly or indirectly) exposed to chemicals before you bring it home. As such, it’s generally best to keep all houseplants well-trimmed and out of the reach of curious little bunnies.

Processed foods (bread, pasta, cookies, crackers, chips, etc.)

As humans, some of our favorite foods are convenient, highly processed products that bear little resemblance to the ingredients used to make them. While sharing a potato chip or cracker with your bunny might seem like a wonderful way to bond, it’s never recommended. Many of the processed foods people eat are high in carbohydrates and sugars, which can lead to indigestion, abnormal bowel movements, abdominal discomfort, and dysbiosis, while significantly increasing the risk of obesity and obese health problems. If you want to give your bunny a treat, try offering a small amount of appropriate fruit, or opt for one of Oxbow’s many nutritionally appropriate treat options.

Raw potatoes

While not as toxic as some of the foods on this list, raw potatoes aren’t particularly healthy for anyone, including humans. Before cooking, potatoes contain a toxic alkaloid called solanine, which can cause decreased appetite, indigestion, abdominal pain and lethargy in rabbits. Even when not ingesting toxic levels of solanine, potatoes are high in calories and high in starch, which can upset a rabbit’s delicate gastrointestinal system and lead to serious digestive problems.

It can be very difficult to resist the temptation to share some of your meal with your fur baby, but for their health and wellbeing, none of the foods listed above should be fed to your rabbit. Luckily, there are a variety of rabbit-approved veggies, fruits, and veggies that will ensure you keep meals interesting for your bunny while ensuring you’re providing the best nutritional diet possible. If you are ever unsure whether your rabbit has ingested any food from this list, or if he is exhibiting any of the symptoms listed above, contact your veterinarian immediately for advice.

learn more

5 fascinating questions answered

The importance of spaying or neutering your rabbit

What are the best vegetables and leafy greens for rabbits?

If you have rabbits in your home, you know that they chew on everything. They will chew on cardboard, furniture, and any type of twig, branch, or toy you can find. Unfortunately, not all types of wood are safe for rabbits. Before we allow our pet rabbits to chew on toys and wooden objects, we should make sure we know exactly which species are poisonous to rabbits so we can avoid them.

Do rabbits have to chew on wood? Rabbits have a natural instinct to chew on wooden objects because this keeps their teeth from growing too long. Rabbit teeth have open roots, which means they grow continuously. Chewing on wood and eating other high-fiber foods is necessary to keep rabbit teeth healthy.

While some rabbits have fastidious palates and won’t eat anything dangerous to them, many pet rabbits will chew anything they can sink their teeth into. That’s why it’s so important that you, as the caretaker, pay attention to what your rabbit has access to. Take the time to educate yourself about the different types of wood in your rabbit’s litter, furniture, and toys so you can make sure everything is safe for your rabbit.

Find out which types of wood are safe for rabbits.

How dangerous is poisonous wood?

If your rabbit manages to chew on some wood that is poisonous to them, there is no need to panic immediately. Wood is dense and difficult for rabbits to chew, so they usually can’t eat it fast enough to do any harm. It’s still a good idea to keep an eye on your rabbit to make sure they’re still eating and pooping regularly if they’ve managed to chew on something they shouldn’t have. If your rabbit continues to behave normally and with normal energy, immediate medical attention is not required.

It’s still important to make sure you’re careful. If your rabbit has regular access to toxic wood species, it can lead to rabbit health problems. Repeated or prolonged contact with unsafe wood, shavings, or even varnish can result in digestive or liver complications. To be on the safe side, it’s best to make sure your rabbit can’t chew any of these poisonous types of wood.

Rabbits have an instinct to chew on wooden objects. This can be furniture, branches, twigs, and toys that you provide them with.

Wooden objects that rabbits might chew on

The wood that rabbits have access to in a household is more than just the toys you give them. Any type of wood can be a potential chew toy for a rabbit, as long as your rabbit can reach it. From furniture to baseboards, you should search your home to find out what your rabbit has access to and whether or not it’s safe for your rabbit.

Hutch: If your rabbit has a wooden hutch or enclosure, you should check what type of wood it is made of. Rabbits with wooden hutches will usually chew on them, so it’s very important that they’re made from non-toxic wood. It’s also good to ensure that no color is used in areas where your rabbit normally chews.

If your rabbit has a wooden hutch or enclosure, you should check what type of wood it is made of. Rabbits with wooden hutches will usually chew on them, so it’s very important that they’re made from non-toxic wood. It’s also good to ensure that no color is used in areas where your rabbit normally chews. Bedding: Some types of rabbit litter are made from wood pellets. Unfortunately, some types of wood pellets (pine and cedar) are not safe for rabbits and can often cause liver damage.

Some types of rabbit litter are made from wood pellets. Unfortunately, some types of wood pellets (pine and cedar) are not safe for rabbits and can often cause liver damage. Furniture: Household furniture can be made from many different types of wood. So if your rabbit is chewing on anything on a regular basis, it’s best to make sure it’s safe. The varnish and finishes on wooden furniture can also be toxic to rabbits.

Household furniture can be made from many different types of wood. So if your rabbit is chewing on anything on a regular basis, it’s best to make sure it’s safe. The varnish and finishes on wooden furniture can also be toxic to rabbits. Toys: Unfortunately, there are toys marketed for rabbits that are not safe for them. It is always best to check what type of wood is being used.

Unfortunately, there are toys marketed for rabbits that are not actually safe for them. It is always best to check what type of wood is being used. Baseboards: While the type of wood used for baseboards is not usually toxic to rabbits, the paint is not good for them. Especially in old homes where the paint on the walls may have higher levels of lead, you want to do your best to prevent rabbits from chewing on baseboards.

While the type of wood used for baseboards isn’t typically toxic to rabbits, the paint isn’t good for them. Especially in old homes where the paint on the walls may have higher levels of lead, you want to do your best to prevent rabbits from chewing on baseboards. Branches: Rabbits can nibble on twigs and branches from the outside. While many species are safe for rabbits straight from the tree or shrub, others should be avoided entirely or given only after they have dried out.

Rabbit proof dangerous wood in your home

Now that you know the spots your rabbit can find wood to chew on, you can take steps to ensure he doesn’t get access to anything dangerous. This means taking steps to rabbit proof your home. You can keep your rabbit away from baseboards by covering the perimeter of the room with a fence. If your rabbit is chewing on furniture, you can wrap cat scratch mats around the wooden legs to keep your rabbits away.

I like this case shape best. It offers plenty of space for the rabbit, is easy to clean and you don’t have to worry about what wood it is made of.

Some items may need a full replacement. A stable made of poisonous wood should be removed. You could even take this opportunity to set up your rabbit with a rabbit exercise run instead. If your rabbit has toxic bedding or toys, these should also be removed and replaced with safer alternatives. I recommend using a recycled paper-based bedding for rabbits.

If your rabbit has access to an outdoor run, you may need to do a rabbit check in your yard as well. Try to remove or fence off areas with poisonous wood or plants that are poisonous to rabbits. You should also make sure not to use fertilizer or pesticides that are unsafe for rabbits.

Types of poisonous wood for rabbits

There are more types of wood from trees, branches, shrubs, and plants that are safe for rabbits than types of wood that are poisonous. Many toxic types of wood are actually harmless once they have dried completely. It’s still best to exercise caution in these cases.

It’s also important to note that most toxic woods (with the exception of aromatic woods, which contain high levels of phenols) are only harmful if ingested. This means if your rabbit isn’t actually chewing on it, they won’t suffer the negative side effects. So if you have furniture made from an unsafe type of wood but your rabbit won’t chew on it, there’s no reason to replace it.

Pine and cedar shavings should be avoided for use in bedding or bedding for rabbits. They are toxic and can lead to liver complications.

1. Cedar

Cedar is the most well-known type of wood that is harmful to rabbits. This is one of the species that should be completely kept away from rabbits. It contains high levels of phenols that can be inhaled by rabbits and cause liver complications.

This is a particular problem with cedar shavings, which are sometimes used as bedding for rabbits. If a rabbit is around these shavings for a long time, it can cause changes in the way its liver produces enzymes and can even make medicines given to rabbits less effective. Fresh cedar in the form of branches or twigs from trees should also be avoided.

There is more debate as to whether hardwood cedar is toxic to rabbits, as it does not release phenols to the same extent as cedar shavings. To be on the safe side, I recommend staying away from any stable or furniture that uses cedar. At the very least, it’s best not to use cedar around rabbits if it still has that strong cedar smell, which can indicate high levels of phenols.

2. Pine

Like cedar, pine is dangerous to rabbits due to the high amount of phenols it produces. Although typically less toxic than cedar, pine can still cause liver complications and the reduced effectiveness of common rabbit medicines with prolonged exposure to pine. Fir branches, needles and twigs should also be kept away from rabbits.

Pine shavings used as bedding are the main culprits to watch out for. This used to be a common form of bedding and bedding for rabbits, but is now known to be dangerous. Instead, it’s better to use hardwood shavings like aspen, or opt for a paper-based bedding instead.

Pine that has been kiln dried and used for furniture and construction is safe for rabbits. However, it is always best to exercise caution. If the pine you’re using still has that strong pine smell, it might be best to keep it away from the rabbit area.

3. Peach Trees

Wood from peach trees, including twigs, bark, and branches, is not safe for rabbits when given fresh. Trees, twigs, and pits of stone fruit (including peaches, plums, apricots, and more) contain high levels of cyanide and can be very dangerous to rabbits.

However, branches of stone fruit trees are safe for rabbits to chew on if they have been left to dry for a month or more. If you have peach trees in your yard and want to harvest some sticks for your rabbit, you can let them dry in the sun to allow the cyanide to dissolve. You should let them dry for at least 30 days, but to be on the safe side, you might want to give it closer to 60 days.

4. Cherry trees

Branches from cherry trees should also be avoided. While many people mistake them for a berry, cherries are actually a different type of stone fruit. The wood from cherry trees has the same hazard as any other type of cored fruit tree. It contains large amounts of cyanide, which is toxic to rabbits. However, once the twigs or sticks have dried for 30 days or more, they are safe to give to rabbits.

Yew is highly toxic to rabbits and should be avoided even after drying.

5. Yew

You should not give your rabbit branches of yew, even if they have been cut from the tree and dried for a few weeks. This actually makes them more poisonous, not less like many other trees. Yew is very dangerous and contains chemicals that can cause sudden death in rabbits. Yew leaves and berries are also highly toxic to rabbits and should be avoided.

6. Holly

Holly, leaves and berries are mildly toxic to rabbits and should be avoided. Holly is actually a name for a group of trees and shrubs. They are mainly characterized by their shiny and prickly leaves. Other plants that may be in the house during the holidays that you should keep away from your rabbit are mistletoe and ivy plants.

7. Bamboo

Bamboo is one of those types of wood that people have different opinions about. You’ll find some resources that say bamboo is perfectly safe for rabbits and others that say it’s toxic. So what’s up?

There are two reasons bamboo has such mixed opinions:

Bamboo isn’t technically a wood (it’s a type of grass). Bamboo is not high in fiber like wood, but high in sugar and starch. While the bamboo itself is not toxic to rabbits, large amounts can cause gastrointestinal problems. For this reason, it is better to only give rabbits bamboo as a treat and limit the amount they eat. There are bamboo-like plants that are poisonous to rabbits. Heavenly bamboo is known to be toxic to rabbits, especially the leaves, and should be avoided. Lucky Bamboo is another bamboo lookalike strain. The effects of this compound on rabbits have not been studied, but it is known to be toxic to cats and dogs, so many people will avoid giving it to their rabbits.

8. Older trees

All parts of a European elder tree are considered mildly toxic to rabbits and should be avoided. These trees are native to Europe, but they now grow in areas around the world, including North America. Therefore, avoid giving your rabbit branches or twigs. Note: European elder trees are not the same as American elder trees. The latter is safe for rabbits.

9. Lacquered or treated wood

If you’re looking at furniture, toys, or home accessories that your rabbit has access to, you should make sure the wood hasn’t been painted or treated with toxic chemicals. Sometimes rabbits instinctively avoid chewing something that has been handled, but often they don’t know any better. When in doubt, it’s best to keep everything out of your rabbit’s reach.

For some reason, companies make rabbit toys with colors that aren’t healthy for them. There are some companies that use plant dyes that are safe for rabbits. You can usually tell if the toy is using a plant-based paint by holding it under water. If the paint on the toy runs in water, it probably means it was made with vegetable dye and the toy is safe. However, any other type of color should be avoided and the toy replaced.

10. MDF panels

MDF boards are medium density fibreboards. It is often used in carpentry, e.g. B. for bookshelves and cabinets. MDF panels are made from compressed wood fibers and chips that are sealed with wax and resin.

You shouldn’t use MDF boards to build a DIY rabbit hutch and try to make sure your rabbit can’t chew on furniture made out of it. MDF boards contain formaldehyde and are toxic to rabbits if they chew on them or even inhale the dust particles from the wood.

Sources:

Bergstrom, Camilla. “Feeding Pet Rabbits 6: Twigs and Branches.” Medirabbit.com. http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases/Food/Branch/Branch_en.htm. Harriman, Marinell. “Litre Boxes and Liver Disease.” society of pet rabbits. https://rabbit.org/journal/1/liver-disease.html. Harcourt-Brown, Francis. “Plant Toxicity”. https://www.harcourt-brown.co.uk/articles/free-food-for-rabbits/lant-toxicity-the-problem-with-lists. Flentke, George Ph.D. “The Dangers of Softwood Shavings.” society of pet rabbits. https://rabbit.org/care/shavings.html

Related posts:

10 types of safe wood for rabbits to chew on

20 plants that are poisonous to rabbits

What is the behavior?

In the wild, rabbits live in burrows. A pen is a group of connected burrows in which a colony of rabbits lives. When we see rabbits digging, we usually imagine them trying to build a burrow. However, there are other reasons rabbits dig – to find food, to uncover cool earth to rest on, to try to escape, or to attract attention. Rabbits dig by loosening the soil with their front paws, pushing it under and behind them, and then turning and pushing it away in front of them. Females typically construct large burrows, while males are more likely to make scratches to mark (often urinating and defecating in the dug earth) and in which they lie in hot weather. Digging is a natural behavior

Why is it important?

Digging is a normal instinctive behavior that fulfills a number of rabbit welfare needs and uses its muscles in ways important to health. We want rabbits to be able to dig, but we don’t want them to escape either! That means we need to provide them with appropriate opportunities to express that behavior.

How can we get rabbits to exhibit this behavior?

Most of us cannot provide our rabbits with large areas of soil and peat to dig in the normal way whenever they want. However, we need to find ways that allow rabbits to exhibit this behavior.

If your rabbits live outside without wire under their feet, try creating an area for the rabbits to dig in. Recently turned, crumbly soil (a little sand to a clay soil will lighten it) often encourages this behavior. Scattering small pieces of vegetables or even partially burying them will also encourage rabbits to dig in the designated area. If your rabbits live outside in wire floor pens, or if your rabbits live indoors, then you need a different approach. You can build a burrow (at least twice the rabbit’s size to be able to move around) with a tall, large litter box, a children’s sandpit, or even concrete pads in a solid enclosure. Rabbits like to dig in dirt and sand – this is possible outside, but probably too messy for inside. Avoid litter tray substrates – some of these cause breathing problems in rabbits, and large pellets can be uncomfortable for rabbit paws. Instead, try providing a deep box of hay – your rabbit will likely dig through if you sprinkle some pellets in it. Burrowing facilities should be provided for pet rabbits

Allowing rabbits some time to supervise in an outdoor yard will give them a chance to dig in a normal way. You can bury wire in the ground around the edge of the yard or enclosure to deter rabbits from digging, and fold a wire skirt from the fence into the yard to act as a visual deterrent from digging (rabbits like to dig in corners or on edges).

Pet rabbits that repeatedly dig for carpets, floors, or curtains indicate that they are stressed and frustrated. This is often caused by insufficient wealth, lack of company, or poor health. Rabbits can also learn that digging in the “wrong” spots can get their owners’ attention – if this is the case, try to leave the room when the rabbit is digging and give a food reward if it follows you. If he doesn’t leave the room when you do, he’s probably not trying to get your attention.

Digging is an important instinctive natural behavior. Rabbits must be able to express this in order to have good welfare, but we must direct it appropriately so that the rabbit does not escape.

Rabbits are no frills about what they eat. Rabbits get bored easily and pass the time by chewing everything in their path. If there is paper in a rabbit hutch, chances are it will be eaten.

Your rabbit will get sick if they eat too much paper. Rabbits have specific dietary needs and require a large amount of fiber. No fibers are found in shredded paper or newspaper. They cannot digest paper properly, leading to constipation and internal blockages.

This does not mean that rabbits should be kept away from paper entirely. Rabbits have a natural instinct to dig, and paper gives them that opportunity. Rabbits also enjoy undertaking projects that take time, and paper shredding can accomplish this. We explain why your rabbit shouldn’t eat paper, but how it can be used to improve your rabbit’s living space.

Why is my rabbit eating paper?

Rabbits are usually more interesting playing with paper than eating it. Rabbits need stimulation and are always looking for a long-term challenge.

That doesn’t mean your rabbit won’t eat the paper when it’s done. Your rabbit may eat paper because it’s hungry. In this case, make sure that your animal is regularly supplied with fresh hay.

Your rabbit may also be lacking in fiber in their diet. This causes them to seek it out from alternative sources, including paper and cardboard. Paper does not meet your pet’s nutritional needs.

Your rabbit may be eating the paper out of boredom. A rabbit needs stimulation in the form of exercise, toys, and social interaction. If your rabbit lives alone, they are likely to become restless.

When in doubt, a rabbit entertains itself by chewing things. When they’re free at home, they’ll find cords and furniture to chew on.

Within a hutch, a rabbit is content with what it can find. Since many pet owners line their rabbit houses with newspaper or scraps of paper, they have access to this.

Will Eating Paper Make My Rabbit Sick?

The answer depends on how much paper your rabbit eats. A small amount shouldn’t have a drastic effect. Most rabbits tear the paper into shreds small enough to digest.

Like anything else, too much paper can be bad for a rabbit’s health. No matter how we look at it, paper is not edible. There are no benefits to eating it and many hidden health risks.

Rabbit Welfare discusses the digestive process of a rabbit. A rabbit’s intestines are designed to function with fibrous greens and grass. Paper isn’t one of those things. If your rabbit eats it too much, it can get sick.

The main danger when a rabbit eats paper is intestinal obstruction. Paper is not broken down in a rabbit’s digestive tract. If not swallowed in small pieces and quantities, it can cause constipation.

Constipation can be fatal to rabbits. Symptoms include:

Your rabbit refuses to eat his food or hay

or hay Your rabbit’s abdomen visibly swells

Your rabbit is bending over and clearly has a stomach ache

If you notice these warning signs, see a veterinarian. It doesn’t take long for constipation to become an emergency. Offer small amounts of vegetable oil as a first aid measure.

How can I stop my rabbit from eating paper?

The easiest way to prevent a rabbit from eating paper is to keep them away from their home. But paper is also a popular material for lining a rabbit hutch. Newspaper is particularly common. Alternative linings for a rabbit home include:

straw

hay

wood pellets

sawdust or pine shavings

When using these substrates, ensure adequate ventilation. While popular, these materials have been linked to liver disease and respiratory problems. They are less likely to harm your rabbit.

Making sure your rabbit’s basic needs are met will also reduce the likelihood that they will eat paper. This means making sure your rabbit has plenty of hay to eat and fiber.

You must also ensure that your rabbit has a rich, fulfilling social life. If you can’t introduce a second rabbit, spend time with him yourself. Rabbits get bored and depressed when left alone. They fill that gap by eating.

Toys are also of central importance for a rabbit. If your rabbit has enough toys to keep them entertained, they are far less likely to resort to paper. Fill their home with things to chew and hide.

Can rabbits eat paper with ink?

There’s something very satisfying about recycling bills and paperwork around your rabbit’s house. It’s also safer than throwing personal information straight into the trash.

However, you must be careful with the ink used on this paper. Some inks are poisonous to small animals. While most modern inks are now safer, it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

The most dangerous ink for rabbits can be found on brochures and leaflets. These mass-produced means of communication tend to use cheaper, potentially toxic ink. Even high quality brochures are a problem due to the waxy nature of the paper.

Another thing to consider is that ink can stain your rabbit’s fur. If your pet is white, it may not stay that way. Don’t be surprised if your bunny’s bright white paws turn a dusky shade of grey. That’s the last thing you want, especially if your rabbit’s paws and fur are soiled with urine.

Is newspaper ink poisonous to rabbits?

Newspaper remains the most popular paper for rabbit hutches. You can read your newspaper at breakfast and line your rabbit’s house at lunchtime. It’s a great way to recycle, but is it safe?

As with most paper-based communications, newspapers are typically printed using secure ink. While older inks used petroleum as a base, soy and water are more common today.

However, you should always test this theory by exposing your rabbit to printed matter. Rub your finger across the ink. Does it smear and come off on your finger? Does it stubbornly stick to your finger when you try to wash it off? If so, this ink is petroleum based and needs to be kept away from rabbits.

Petroleum-based ink never fully dries. Plus, it contains the same oils that a car mechanic would use. It is unsafe to line your rabbit’s home with these inks.

Can you put shredded paper in a rabbit hutch?

In many ways, shredded paper is safer than whole paper. It will already be in smaller pieces. This means your rabbit is less likely to cause an intestinal obstruction if your rabbit swallows the paper.

In addition, the shredded paper minimizes the impact of ink. After the paper has passed through a paper shredder, the ink is evenly distributed in tiny amounts.

Nevertheless, shredded paper alone as a base (litter) is unsafe. The British Rabbit Council only recommends using shredded paper under straw or hay.

One option is to give your rabbit safe paper so they can shred themselves. Many rabbits will enjoy this. It gives them something to do and they can use the scraps for nesting.

Take the yellow pages or the telephone book, for example. If these act as door stops in your home, consider offering them to your rabbit. You’ll have hours of fun shredding these books and digging amidst their trail of destruction.

Can rabbits eat paper bags?

Paper bags are great fun for rabbits. These items can be attached to a rabbit cage and used as toys. Your bunny can chew, shred and hide in the paper bag.

As always, there are caveats to this. A paper bag is not easy to digest. They’re big and they’re tough. Like any paper, this will potentially cause stomach upset in your rabbit.

It is best to fill a paper bag with hay or straw. This will help your rabbit enjoy everything the bag has to offer alongside a safe source of food.

There’s nothing wrong with your rabbit enjoying playtime with a paper bag, but use caution. If they show more desire to eat the bag than their regular food, take it away.

Can rabbits eat toilet paper?

Of all the forms out there, toilet paper is the least harmful to a rabbit’s intestines. That doesn’t mean it’s good for your rabbit. Don’t offer a rabbit toilet paper as a snack instead of celery.

If they nibble toilet paper on a corner, it’s not the end of the world. This material packs up much smaller than a traditional sheet of paper. This will make it easier for your rabbit to pass.

When you’re done with a toilet paper roll, the tube is a great toy for rabbits. Your pet will enjoy chewing it and pushing it around their coop.

You can also fill the toilet paper roll with hay, straw or treats. You could even glue chopsticks to the toilet paper roll to create a makeshift toy.

Can rabbits eat paper towels?

While toilet paper isn’t necessarily a problem for rabbits, paper towels aren’t. If you use a sturdy and absorbent kitchen towel, it can be difficult for your rabbit to digest.

Just like toilet paper, the box around which paper towels are wrapped is a versatile toy. Just make sure all traces of the paper towel have been removed before offering it to your rabbit.

Napkins are best avoided altogether. Your rabbit may enjoy using these for a variety of reasons. A napkin can be a makeshift blanket or shredded for fun. If eaten, it is dangerous.

This is because napkins are chewy and difficult to swallow. While a rabbit likes to chew for long periods of time, the problem comes with swallowing. Napkins are not easy for your rabbit to digest.

Also, most napkins are heavily colored as a decorative feature. If you’re not sure this dye is safe for rabbits, keep them away.

Is Cardboard Safer Than Paper for Rabbits?

Cardboard is more dangerous for your rabbit to eat. It is thicker and more stable than paper and therefore even harder to digest.

Luckily, this means your rabbit is less likely to eat excessive amounts of cardboard. They spend so much time and energy chewing and destroying that they may be too tired to eat.

Cardboard makes a great makeshift toy for a rabbit and will keep them happy for hours. Just watch your pet.

Chewing cardboard is a good thing. It will keep your rabbit entertained and prevent their teeth from becoming too sharp. However, consumption is potentially dangerous and must be discouraged.

Rabbits and paper don’t necessarily make easy bedfellows. If you can use alternative materials for bedding and entertainment, do so. But paper can be a useful addition to your rabbit’s life.

It is important that your rabbit uses paper for entertainment and not for food. Nothing good will come from your rabbit eating paper.