Ford Kuga Wheel Nut Torque? The 127 Latest Answer

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A lug nut (or lug nut) is a nut with a rounded or tapered end used on steel and most aluminum wheels. Lug nuts are installed to attach a wheel to threaded wheel studs and therefore to the vehicle axles. There are 4 common types of lug nuts:

tapered seat

buckle cone seat

flanged

Flanged Swirl

Lug nuts must be installed in an alternating pattern called a star pattern, this ensures even weight distribution across the wheel mounting surface. It is highly recommended to tighten them with a calibrated torque wrench, you can use a socket wrench or an impact wrench, but final tightening should always be done with a torque wrench. The torque specifications vary depending on the vehicle and wheel type, the manufacturers specify recommended torque values ​​that should always be observed during installation, after installation you should retighten the vehicle after driving 50 km. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can result in:

Warped brake discs

Damage to the seat of the wheel nut

wheel hub damage

Below is a general torque specification table. Lug nut specifications call for clean threads free of dirt, grit, etc. If you apply a lubricant it MUST NOT be used on both seats of the hardware as the seat is the main friction point where torque is measured. When tightening the lug nut, it’s important to remember that tight is good, too tight is NOT good. Over tightening can stretch the bolt and cause failure around the rotor, which is why it is so important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. The correct way to tighten a lug nut is to use a torque wrench to torque each lug nut to the recommended specifications. Overtightening the lug nut can cause stress cracking, rendering it uncertified for load capacity. There is a risk of the lugs breaking under normal conditions and your wheels overtaking you in traffic, rarely, but it does raise safety concerns.

There are a few different types of torque wrenches on the market, the most common being the click-type torque wrench. You simply turn the wrench handle until it reaches the desired torque mark and then start tightening the nuts. When the set torque is reached, you will feel a click around the head of the wrench. There is also a dial torque wrench that has a small counter on the handle and you will see the torque build up as you apply force. Some dial torque wrenches come with an electronic gauge on the handle that allows you to read the exact torque. The general rule for torque for steel lug nuts is typically around 80 ft/lb and for aluminum wheels around 100 ft/lb. However, you still need to check the manufacturer’s specs.

Drive safe and secure, get your wheels checked.

While not essential, a torque wrench is a good idea. You need to make sure the wheel is clamped evenly onto the hub. This will prevent the wheel from warping and causing other problems. Get on the road with the wheel wrench that came with the car.

As a rule of thumb, I tighten steel wheels to 80 lb-ft (50 lb-ft first pass; 80 on second pass, with a double check), while alloy wheels get 100 lb-ft (70 lb-ft first pass); 100 on the second pass, with a double check).

You can get a decent torque wrench cheaply from Harbor Freight here in the States (without knowing where you’re from). I saw their 1/2″ drive ratchet/click types on sale for only $11. It’s worth the small investment.

Original Ford aluminum wheel nuts are often supplied with a metal cap. These caps are designed as the mother’s main head, however, they are thin and therefore soft, and are often damaged and even come off. The lug nut head under these caps is not a standard hex size and can cause difficulties when changing tires as a standard hex wheel wrench will not fit.

Because of this, many people want to change their Ford alloy wheel nuts. However, there are other things to look out for when changing nuts. The original Ford alloy wheel nuts have a captive washer, making the overall width of the nut approximately 28mm. This is wider than most aftermarket alloy wheel nuts which are typically around 23-24mm wide.

If you ever have a flat tire or want to change your own tires, it’s important to understand what a wheel locknut is and what role it plays so that you or a mechanic can safely remove the wheel from your vehicle. Keeping your lockable lug nuts handy can save you a lot of time and money.

Car dashboard warning lights: the complete guide

Below we explain in more detail what a wheel lock is, how to remove it, where to find the unique wheel lock key for your vehicle and what to do if you lose it.

What is a wheel lock nut?

Locking wheel nuts, also known as alloy wheel nuts, are used by manufacturers to ensure the wheels stay securely attached to their cars. The introduction of lockable wheel nuts was a turning point in the fight against alloy wheel theft. Now that alloy wheels are a common standard feature of modern cars, they are not as desirable to thieves as they used to be, but manufacturers are still happy to protect themselves from the risk of theft by equipping all vehicles with a set of lockable wheel nuts. Most cars have one locked lug nut per wheel and a matching locked lug nut wrench to remove them.

Where can I find my wheel nut wrench?

Lug wrenches are fairly small, much like the average bolt, and are often housed in a container in your car. If you bought your car through a private seller, it’s worth checking to see if you were given a unique lockable wheel nut wrench at the time. However, you’re likely to find it where the manufacturer originally placed it. Auto manufacturers tend to keep lockable lug nuts in a handful of places. These include:

Which wheel nuts fit my Ford?

Ford uses alloy lug nuts most of the time, but some older models use bolts.

The 2 thread sizes used by Ford vehicles are M12 and M14. Almost all Ford cars use the M12 x 1.5 thread, but S-Max and Galaxy are the exception and use M14 x 1.5. If you are looking for Transit Van Nuts double check as you may need M14 x 2.0

Below is a breakdown of each specification and the cars that fit them.

If you are not sure, please contact us for help.

The Ford Kuga Tire Pressure Monitoring System or “TPMS” alerts the driver when there is a change in air pressure in any of your tires. Depending on the model year, your first generation Ford Kuga MK1 probably uses a “direct” TPMS, which uses the ABS sensors to detect the rolling circumference of the wheels. Later MK2 versions of the second generation Ford Kuga use “indirect” tire pressure monitoring systems, which require an air pressure sensor in each tire.

Regardless of the year of your Ford Kuga, make sure your vehicle is stationary and secure before resetting the tire pressure monitoring system. System reset should only be performed after you have adjusted the tire pressures to the correct settings.

Ford Kuga Recommended tire pressure

If the message center displays a low pressure warning, check the tire pressure as soon as possible and inflate to the recommended pressure. The recommended tire pressure for the Ford Kuga should be found on the tire pressure sticker, which is usually located on the inside of the driver’s door on the B-pillar.

Reset Ford Kuga tire pressure monitor (MK1).

This explains how to reset the low tire pressure warning light for Ford Kuga MK1 (first generation) 2008-2013.

Type 2 instrument cluster

Turn the engine ignition switch to the ON position. Use the multi-function lever to navigate to SET Select T. Pres. Press and hold the SET/RESET button until the Tire Pressure Set message appears. The tire pressure monitoring system is now reset and the new pressures are saved.

Type 3 instrument cluster

Turn the engine ignition switch to the ON position. Navigate the multi-function stick to hold SET to set the tire pressure. Press and hold the SET/RESET button until the Tire Pressure Set message appears. The tire pressure monitoring system is now reset and the new pressures are saved.

Reset Ford Kuga tire pressure monitor (MK2).

Here we explain how to reset the tire pressure warning light for Ford Kuga MK2 (second generation) 20013 – 2016.

Turn the engine ignition switch to the ON position. Use the navigation buttons on the steering wheel and highlight Settings. Press the OK button to select it. Select Driver Assist. Scroll down to Tire Monitor and then press and hold the OK button until a confirmation appears. The tire pressure monitoring system is now reset and the new pressures are saved.

Low tire pressure warning light

This symbol illuminates on Ford Kuga to inform the driver that one or more tires are under-inflated. Check the pressures as soon as possible. The TPMS is triggered when one or more tires are under-inflated by approximately 25% of the set recommended pressure.

CHECK TIRE PRESSURE FREQUENTLY

Since the end of 2014, all new cars sold within the European Union can be equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). While TPMS is a valuable safety aid, it does not absolve you from regularly checking tire pressure.

Under-inflated tires (possibly not enough to trigger the TPMS) increase fuel consumption and tire wear, but can also affect your car’s stability and braking ability.

TIRE PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT AND MOT

Since the beginning of 2015, further regulations relating to the UK MOT test have come into force. If a tire pressure monitoring system warning light comes on on your dash and stays on during MOT testing, it is now classed as a fault.

How to check your tire pressure

Tire pressure can affect the handling and fuel efficiency of your car. So it has to be right. How to check it:

First, make sure your handbrake is on and the ignition is off.

Let the tires cool down for about three hours. There is a more accurate reading.

In your door frame, a table shows the correct tire pressures: they are given in PSI and BAR.

Get a tire pressure gauge. There are manual and digital.

Unscrew the dust caps on your tires. And keep them in a safe place!

Press the pressure gauge onto the valve and you will hear a faint hiss of air.

The number indicates the pressure.

TOP TIP: Tires with incorrect air pressure wear out faster. They are also less secure. So check them regularly.

Do you have a spare tire?

Then it is worth checking that as well.

Finally, don’t forget to screw all your dust caps back on.

Consult your owner’s manual or your local Ford dealer for more information.

Imagine that.

You are on the edge of a deserted highway and you need to change a tire. Of course you don’t have a torque wrench in the trunk. How do you get the wheel nuts just as tight without one?

Okay, this might sound like the intro to a grade B scary movie, but it could very well be a real-life scenario.

I don’t know anyone who carries a torque wrench in the trunk, but I know a few who carry tire levers. In fact, that could be because, back in the day, when automakers offered full-size replacement parts, they often included a tire lever.

Below I will detail how to use this and another tool.

There are a few tools you can use to tighten lug nuts like a torque wrench. Using a crossbar tire lever, select the correct size socket and hand tighten if you have the arm strength. If not, you need to stand on the right side of the tire lever to turn the lug nut clockwise and tighten it.

I should note that your tire levers don’t have to be a crossbar 4-way type. The single socket type also works for this method. As long as the bushing fits the wheel nuts.

Using a crossbar tire lever is cheaper than roadside assistance, but involves more work

If you don’t have a crossbar tire lever with your tiny spare tire, I suggest you keep one in your trunk. Or get roadside assistance. Tip – the tire iron is cheaper but more work.

An annual roadside assistance membership can cost about the same as a torque wrench. Tip – You pay once for the torque wrench and membership, well, annually.

Let’s break down the process step by step.

With a crossbar tire lever in the trunk, you can get back on the road faster

Changing tires with a crossbar tire lever

Let’s assume the nuts are very tight.

Step 1. Remove wheel nuts.

Choose the correct socket size and adjust it via the lug nut. Take the tire lever in both hands and turn it counterclockwise. If you don’t have enough arm strength to loosen the wheel nuts, stand on the left side of the tire lever and use your body weight. Be careful here. You don’t want to fall! If you’re literally a lightweight, you may need to use a little more strength, so let your weight bounce slightly on the bar. Remove wheel nuts. Jack up the car.

Step 2. Replacing a tire.

Put your spare tire on the car. Finger tighten the lug nuts as tight as possible. Lower the car back to the ground. Again, use the tire lever to tighten each nut in turn. Use both hands and tighten just a little at a time. Don’t tighten one as tight as you can and move on to the next.

Use common sense in step 4. If you can bench press your bodyweight, then tightening in the manner above is probably sufficient. If you can’t crack the seal on a mason jar, you’ll have to use your body weight.

When you’re in the second category, step back onto the bar, but this time on the right side, so you’re tightening the nuts clockwise. Repeat this step until the nut feels tight.

This will take you further until you get a new tire fitted properly.

Tire change with extendable crowbar

I mentioned above that there are a few tools you can use to tighten lug nuts if you don’t have a torque wrench.

One is the hoop iron mentioned above and the other is an extendable crowbar. Crow bars are capable of generating enough torque to deal with even the most stubborn lug nuts.

A crowbar is a long steel bar with a head to which a socket wrench is attached. The head typically rotates up to 240 degrees, which means you can position the bar in the best possible position to generate enough leverage to deal with a tight lug nut.

If you have a breaker bar that extends up to 18 inches in the trunk, you have everything you need for a tire change. . . Provided, of course, that you have reserves.

Step 1. Removing the tire.

1. Pull the pole out as far as possible without touching the ground. This provides more power and torque.

2. Install and remove the socket over the wheel nuts.

3. Jack up the car.

Step 2. Replacing a tire.

1. Contract the crowbar to its shortest length.

2. Tighten the wheel nuts as tight as possible.

The benefit of shortening the bar is that you don’t over tighten the nuts since you now have less power and torque.

Do you really need a torque wrench?

The short answer is no, they are not strictly necessary.

The longer answer is: if you can, you should. That’s why I recommended above that changing a tire without a tire will get you back on track, but it’s still a good idea to have the nuts checked and properly retightened.

Here’s the thing. Modern cars are very precise in their manufacture. If you still have a 1980 Ford Pinto, tighten your wheels without a torque wrench.

But when you drive a late model car, everything is computerized and precisely calibrated.

According to Car and Driver, here’s what can happen if a torque wrench isn’t used. Notice I said can, don’t want.

Overtightened lug nuts can cause your rotors to warp

You can strip threads

Wheel bolts could break off

If you don’t tighten them enough, they may fall off. . . which means your bike could also fall off.

Check your owner’s manual. Chances are you can get the exact torque specification for your vehicle.

Conclusion

So you’ve learned how to loosen and tighten your lug nuts without a torque wrench. And that it’s still a good idea to have it looked at later by a pro or someone with a torque wrench.

Can you overtighten your lug nuts by hand? Sure you can. Unless only your car is jacked up. If you have the muscles, you can tighten the nuts beyond the specifications.

The opposite is also true. If you can’t open a jar lid yourself, it probably goes without saying that you’ll never tighten the lug nuts tight enough to hold your wheel.

And if you have a lug nut that’s tight and difficult to remove, you can rest your body weight on a tire lever or use the natural torque found with an extendable pry bar to do the job for you.

I hope this answered all your questions! Why not check out the related articles below? Maybe there’s something else we can help you with.

Impact wrenches are good for getting lug nuts onto the studs, but a torque wrench must be used to set the nuts. Redrawing is highly recommended, but few seem to get to it.

Research into hundreds of wheel separation incidents shows that better maintenance could have prevented all but a few incidents, whether they were loose wheel fasteners or failed bearings due to improper installation or loss of lubricant.

Of 643 incidents reported between 2000 and 2003, 65% were due to loose wheel fasteners and 26% to wheel bearings. The remainder was a mixture of axle and/or suspension structural failures and other causes.

A Canadian report revealed that 83% of incident reports stated that repairs or maintenance had been performed on the suspect wheels shortly before the disconnect.

Wheel end failures result from over- or under-tightened bearings or from lack of lubrication. Undertightening (excessive end play) can cause the wheel to wobble on the spindle and damage the seal, which can lead to loss of lubricant and eventual bearing failure. Over tightening (excessive preload) can damage the bearing and lead to overheating, seal failure and loss of lubricant.

Where fasteners are to blame, several factors can cause nuts to come loose. Excess paint, rust, scale or dirt between the connection areas of wheel end components will result in low clamping force. Reasons given for the loss of clamping force on wheel nuts are non-compliance with the manufacturer’s specifications for the prescribed torque, the correct tightening sequence and routine torque checks during operation.

Improper use of impact wrenches and uncalibrated tools has resulted in wheel studs being stretched beyond their yield point. Cracked or worn nuts with deformed threads have also been associated with the loss of adequate clamping force at the nut flange.

You might think that trailers would fare worse than tractors since they are typically in the workshop less often. But the percentage split between accidents involving tractors and trailers is roughly even, with trailers accounting for about 6% more than trucks.

Read more about how to prevent wheel-offs in the December issue of HDT.

Care and attention to detail are major concerns when assembling custom wheels, especially alloy wheels. Taking the time to get the job done right will greatly reduce the potential for customer complaints.

Prepare wheel assembly

NOTE: Before installing a wheel (steel or alloy), check the condition of the fastening system threads (nuts and studs or studs and hub threads). All threads must be clean and free of dirt, grease, grit, etc. If burrs or flat spots are found, replace the offending fastener.

Before attempting to mount the wheel to the vehicle hub, first make sure you have the correct size fasteners and check the condition of the threads. Install all fasteners with your fingers. Each fastener should be able to be easily screwed in without the use of a tool. If this is not the case, the thread size (diameter or thread pitch) may be incorrect, or the threads may be damaged on either the bolt and/or nut; or the threaded hole of the wheel bolt and/or hub. Fix any mounting issues before attempting to mount the wheel(s).

If you are happy with the fasteners, for an initial installation (new aftermarket wheels) it is a good idea to test the wheels first before mounting the tires on the wheels. Make sure there are no obstructions on the hub face that would prevent the wheel from fitting flush to the hub (check for OE stud clips etc.).

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Install the wheel onto the vehicle hub and tighten at least three wheel fasteners. There is no need to tighten to full torque, just make sure the wheel is flush against the hub face. Check disc brake clearance and clearance between the wheel rim and all steering/suspension components.

Also check hub fit. Some wheels are designed to be centered to the hub via the bolt holes (hub centering), while others are designed to be centered to the hub via the hub center-to-wheel hub center hole (hub centering).

If the wheel center hole is larger than the outer diameter of the hub center housing, a hub centric spacer may be required to properly center the wheel on the hub.

There is nothing wrong with using a hub-centric ring adapter. Some wheel manufacturers may use the same center hole diameter to accommodate a variety of hub sizes. By using a centering ring, a single centering hole size can be used on smaller hub diameters. Just check this first to save time and hassle. If necessary, the rings must be fitted to the hub before the wheel is fitted.

wheel mounting torque

Many people don’t realize this, but all threaded fasteners are designed to stretch slightly when tightened fully to specification.

In the case of wheel studs and nuts (or wheel bolts), this creates the correct preload needed to properly secure the wheel to the hub.

If wheel fasteners are overtightened, they will eventually loosen, which can result in wheel damage or detachment from the vehicle. If the fasteners are tightened beyond their design limit, the wheel bolt or stud may permanently stretch (fatigue beyond its designed elastic range) or even break during installation.

While using a percussion gun (or using a percussion gun equipped with a torsion wrench) can be tempting in terms of saving time, let’s face it: the only way to ensure correct clamp loads is to take the time to wheel tighten fasteners with a good quality and properly calibrated torque wrench.

Never use an impact gun to tighten custom wheel fasteners. Not only will you not be able to accurately control the degree of fastener tightness, but using an impact tool can easily damage the fasteners or the adjacent wheel surface.

And when we’re dealing with attractive (and expensive) alloy wheels, such damage, even if only cosmetic, is simply unacceptable.

Use sockets that match the wheel!

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Before attempting to engage a socket with the fasteners, first ensure that the socket is clean to avoid damaging the fastening surface. Also ensure that the socket of your choice fits comfortably into the wheel’s mounting hole (in those cases where the fastener sinks into a recess on the wheel’s bolt holes).

Using a nut that is too thick will cause the nut to bind and seize in the indentation, damaging the wheel finish (chrome chipping, powder coating corroding, etc.). I prefer to set aside a special set of thin wall bushings specifically for use on custom wheels. This provides a set of cleanly kept bushings that you know won’t fit too tightly into the bolt hole recesses.

The use of a pneumatic (or electric) percussion gun presents the potential for damaging the exterior surfaces of the fastener and/or the wheel’s mounting hole area during both the disassembly and assembly operations. In short, when you’re dealing with alloy wheels, leave the percussion gun on the workbench.

Here’s another tip: when tightening the wheel fasteners, don’t make the mistake of tightening them with your fingers and then lowering the vehicle to the ground to continue tightening. Rather than fighting vehicle weight, it is best to perform the entire tightening process with the tire off the ground. If the mating surfaces (wheel to hub) are not fully compressed, the application of vehicle weight to the tire will cause the sidewall deflection resistance (due to vehicle weight) to be overcome, potentially resulting in inaccurate torque.

INSTALLATION TIP: To prevent the wheel from sticking to the hub in the future (pressing an aluminum wheel against a steel hub can cause electrolysis), it is advisable to apply a thin layer of anti-seize paste to the hub surface where the wheel is in contact.

By applying this mass thinly, the impellers can be easily removed in the future.

redraw

While opinions vary on retorque, the best suggestion is to retorque all wheel fasteners after the first 50 to 100 miles, especially after installing new wheels.

This is especially true for alloy wheels, as initial tightening of the fasteners can result in slight compression of the wheel material (at the hub mating surface).

When slight material compression occurs, it directly translates to a lower torque value on the fasteners, reducing clamp load.

The best approach is to first torque all wheel fasteners to the specified value, drive the vehicle 80 to 100 miles, and then re-tighten the fasteners.

When re-tightening, jack the vehicle up to raise the tires off the ground (remove vehicle weight). Loosen all wheel fasteners (crosswise) and then retighten in the correct sequence to the full specified torque value.

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Torque values ​​for wheel fasteners

Always follow the vehicle or wheel manufacturer’s torque specifications.

Remember that tighter is not necessarily better.

While you should always refer to the torque specifications listed by the vehicle make or wheel manufacturer, the following box provides a broad guide to torque values ​​for common wheel fastener sizes.

suit order

Always tighten each wheel in the correct order to distribute the clamp load evenly between the wheel and hub.

Especially considering today’s comparatively light hubs and brake discs, improper tightening of wheel fasteners (in terms of torque value and tightening pattern) increases the risk of hub/rotor distortion, resulting in brake pulsation. The goal in using the correct tightening pattern is to avoid concentrated areas of clamping force. You want to distribute the clamp load evenly across the hub surface.

Hub with four screws

If the hub/wheel is positioned so that a fastener is in the 12 o’clock position, tighten the 12 o’clock position first, followed by the 6 o’clock position, followed by the 3 o’clock position followed by the 9 o’clock position.

Hub with five screws

If the hub/wheel is positioned at 12 o’clock with a fastener, first tighten the 12 o’clock position, then the 7 o’clock position, then the 2 o’clock position, then the 10 o’clock position, followed by the 5 o’clock position.

Always move from the first fastener to a fastener farthest from the first fastener. Then go to a fastener farthest from that second fastener, and so on. Always go to the fastener farthest from the previous fastener.

six-hole hub

The same rule applies. After tightening the first fastener, move to a fastener farthest from that first fastener, and so on.

Always move to the fastener farthest from the previously tightened fastener.

An example of a six-bolt pattern would be: if the hub/wheel is positioned to place a fastener at 12 o’clock, tighten the 12 o’clock position first, then the 6 o’clock position, and then the 2 o’clock position, followed by the 7 o’clock position, followed by the 5 o’clock position, followed by the 10 o’clock position.

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NOTE: For ideal clamping results, it is best not to fully tighten fasteners in one step. Instead, tighten in at least two stages. For example, if the specified torque value is 100 ft.-lb. , tighten all fasteners (in the correct order) to an initial value of 25 ft.-lb. Celebration. Then perform a second tightening to full value (100 ft.-lb. in our example). By tightening in stages, you reduce the likelihood of excessive clamping force being created in isolated areas. This extra care is just another way to increase your chances of achieving optimal wheel-to-hub clamp force.

mounting dimensions

Threaded fastener sizing involves multiple dimensions, including diameter, thread pitch, and length. Below are the basics.

Thread diameter refers to the diameter of the threaded portion of the fastener (outer diameter of a screw shank or bolt).

For example, if you measure the thread diameter of a 1/2″ bolt with vernier calipers, the diameter measured at the tips of the threads will measure almost 1/2″ (usually the accurate measurement is 0.005 – 0.008″ or so less). than exactly 1/2 inch).

Wheel mounts come in both inch and metric formats. Common wheel mounts in inch format are 7/16 inch, 1/2 inch and 9/16 inch. Common wheel mounts in metric format are 10mm, 12mm and 14mm.

Thread pitch refers to the number of threads or the distance between threads.

In inch format, pitch refers to the number of threads found within a 1 inch thread range. For example, a 1/2″ x 20″ fastener is 1/2″ in diameter with 20 threads per inch of thread length.

A 20 pitch is commonly referred to as a “fine” thread (compared to a 1/2″ x 13 size which would only have 13 threads per inch, which is commonly referred to as a “coarse” thread.

The terms coarse or fine are relative terms depending on the thread diameter. For example, a 1/4 inch diameter screw with a 20 pitch is considered coarse, while a 28 pitch is considered fine. For a larger diameter screw such as a 1/2 inch screw, pitch 20 is fine and pitch 13 is coarse.

In metric format, thread pitch refers to the distance between threads. For example, a thread pitch of 1.25 indicates that the distance between two adjacent threads is 1.25 mm. If the thread pitch is 1.50, the distance between the threads is 1.5 mm. In metric format, the higher the number, the “coarser” the thread pitch.

For example, a pitch of 1.0 is “very fine”, a pitch of 1.25 is “medium fine”, a pitch of 1.5 is “medium” and a pitch of 1.75 is “coarse”.

With the inch format, the higher the pitch number, the finer the thread.

In metric format, the lower the number, the finer the threads.

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While it may seem confusing at first, identifying thread sizes will be easy once you understand the measurement approach.

When it comes to wheel attachments, the threads are always “fine”. Compared to coarse threads, this offers increased bolt strength and potential clamp load. If a wheel fastener is 7/16″ in diameter, the thread pitch is 20. If it is 1/2″ in diameter, the thread pitch is 20. If it is 9/16″ in diameter, the thread pitch is 18. Metric wheel fasteners, regardless of thread diameter, have either a thread pitch of 1.25 or 1.5.

Thread engagement length is critical. The thread engagement length must be at least equal to or greater than the diameter of the fastener. In other words, if the bolt is 1/2″ in diameter, the nut must engage at least 1/2″ on the bolt. If not, either a longer stud or nut will need to be used (if a longer nut is needed, the nut needs to protrude farther through the wheel hole to meet the stud). Longer nuts can be used if the nut has an extended shank, which provides more thread length. This varies depending on the nut style. If this is not possible, a longer bolt must be used.

When using wheel bolts or cap nuts, care must be taken that the bolt or nut does not hit the ground. For example, if the stud provides 1 inch of exposed length for the nut to engage, but the threaded hole in the nut is only 3/4 inch deep, the nut will bottom out on the stud and not clamp the wheel against the hub.

Be mindful of the length rather than blindly unscrewing the nuts just handy.

HANDBOOK Q&A: What are the different drive types for fasteners?

Common drive types for wheel attachments include either an external or internal hex, or a spline drive, which has a series of grooves or splines.

A key drive style requires a special keyway, while external hex nuts or bolts require a hex socket. Small diameter spline drive fasteners are commonly found on many “tuner” wheels to accommodate small hub areas. For the same reason, a socket head nut or bolt allows the use of smaller OD fasteners when space is at a premium. These require the use of a hex bit (colloquially this is often referred to as an ‘Allen key’, a term which is not always accurate as the term ‘Allen’ actually refers to a specific brand of tool).

In short, if you plan on servicing today’s custom bikes, it’s important to realize that you need a broader range of tools than a basic selection of female hex sockets.

Another point worth mentioning concerns the wall thickness of the sleeve. In many cases, the clearance between the fastener and the wheel’s bolt hole entry cavity is very close, necessitating the use of thin-walled bushings to avoid scratching the wheel surface. This is something many shops ignore until it’s time to install or remove the wheel. Our suggestion would be to keep a small inventory of 1/2″ drive light wall deepwell sockets (for servicing hex head lug nuts or bolts) in stock, intended for servicing custom wheels only. Another benefit of this approach is that as long as you’re not using those sockets for routine repair jobs, the sockets stay “healthy” – clean, with minimal wear and burrs that could damage chrome fasteners.

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HANDBOOK Q&A: What are the different fastener seating styles?

“Fit” refers to the actual contact area between the fastener head and the wheel.

It is important to understand that the fastener seating style must match the impeller seating style. Using the wrong style of seat will simply not secure the wheel to the hub properly. If the fastener seating style does not match that of the wheel, you are likely to damage the wheel surface, and more importantly, the wheel will eventually loosen and wobble as it moves in relation to the hub.

In a short time, any play between the wheel and fasteners will ruin the wheel’s mounting holes, resulting in either serious wheel damage or complete loss of the tire/wheel assembly.

The most commonly encountered seat styles are radius, tapered, and flat (“mag”). These terms refer to the shape of the seat (where the fastener contacts the entrance of the mounting hole in the wheel).

Radius seats are also known as “ball seats” because the base of the nut (or the base of the head of a wheel bolt) has a spherical shape that fits into a wheel’s female rounded ball relief at the wheel’s mounting hole.

Tapered seats are often referred to as “tapered” seats. This style features an angled seat panel (a “cone” shape). The fastener features a male cone seat and the wheel features a female cone entry hole. The most common taper angle is 60 degrees.

Mag lug nuts have a flat contact surface on the wheel (the nut usually has a thick washer). A Mag-style nut may also feature a smooth, outer-walled shank, which served to center the wheel on a cleat-centric design, as the shank enters the wheel’s bolt hole and acts as a guide pin to guide the wheel’s hole over the wheel stud to center . When using a cap nut (where the internally threaded hole does not go all the way through the nut) it is important to pay attention to the thread engagement length. The nut must engage the bolt at least to a depth equal to the bolt diameter. For example, if the bolt diameter is 12 mm, the nut must be screwed at least 12 mm deep onto the bolt. Also make sure that the bolt does not bottom out in the nut. When the bolt bottoms out, it is impossible to achieve full clamping force.

Having to replace a flat tire on the side of a busy road is something all motorists would rather avoid. If you know what you’re doing and everything works as it should, fitting a spare tire shouldn’t take more than half an hour and you’re good to go.

However, in this scenario, how would you feel if you loosened your car’s wheel nuts with the standard wheel wrench that came with it, only to find that the nuts were so tight that you couldn’t move them? So tight that even putting your foot on the wheel wrench and standing on it with your entire body weight cannot loosen it? Anecdotal evidence suggests this is not uncommon.

Of course, over-tightened lug nuts can turn a simple wheel change into a nightmare. So to make sure you don’t find yourself in this situation – and avoid possible mechanical damage that you may not be aware of – here are a few handy tips.

Why are wheel nuts overtightened?

This is often attributed to powerful pneumatic or battery powered impact wrenches used by mechanic shops and tire shops that inadvertently apply excessive torque through a hammer effect when tightening lug nuts after vehicle servicing or when fitting new tires.

Torque is the turning force applied when tightening wheel nuts. The amount of torque, measured in Newton meters or Nm, is specified by your car’s manufacturer and can usually be found in the owner’s manual.

With every new car that rolls off the assembly line, the wheel nuts are “tightened” to the correct Nm settings. However, if these factory settings are not maintained during ownership, lug nuts can become either too loose or too tight.

Lug nuts that are too loose can cause a wheel to begin to wobble as it turns, creating noise and vibration that is easily detected and usually corrected by stopping and tightening. However, if they’ve been overtightened, it can cause more of a headache than just being stranded on the side of the road.

Damage from overtightening

This can result in stripped threads on lug nuts and wheel studs, as well as stretching of the studs, making them weaker and more prone to breakage and eventual failure. This stretching can also cause the lug nuts to loosen.

Disc brake rotors and brake drums can warp, which can cause the steering wheel to shake and shake during braking, which can result in damage to other related components.

Alloy wheels, which are made of softer materials than steel, can also be damaged along with the aluminum dress caps that are fitted to steel lug nuts to improve their appearance. If the nuts are too tight, these caps can easily deform when force is applied to loosen them and eventually spin on the nuts.

The only solution then is to remove the dress cap with a chisel to get at the wheel nut, which not only destroys the dress cap but also increases the risk of damaging the alloy wheel.

This will avoid over tightening

A free (though not entirely accurate) way to check the tightness of lug nuts is with the lug wrench that comes with your car’s tool kit.

Vehicle manufacturers design these tools to provide sufficient leverage – and therefore the torque required – to tighten lug nuts to the recommended settings. So if you can loosen and tighten your car’s lug nuts with the wheel wrench, you can be reasonably confident that the lug nuts are tightened to or near the correct torque. It also means you can unclip them if you need to change wheels in our roadside scenario.

However, if you want more accuracy, the best tool is a torque wrench. These are available from auto parts suppliers and hardware stores, starting at around $50 for a basic version that would be sufficient for this purpose.

A torque wrench lets you select a desired torque setting, and as you tighten a lug nut, it lets you know (usually with a clicking sound) when the setting is reached. Using this technique, four sets of lug nuts can easily be checked in a minute or two.

This is a good habit, especially after your car’s wheels have been removed and reinstalled. Sand can become trapped between lug nuts and the pads where they “sit” on the wheels, potentially leading to incorrect torque readings that are not indicative of actual clamp force.

After checking the lug nut torque settings after reinstalling the wheels, it is important to check them again with your torque wrench after about 50km, when the nuts have settled, to make sure they are still correct.

Conclusion

The average car owner rarely or never checks their lug nuts, which is remarkable given the central role they play in driving safety. If tires are the only thing standing between your car and the road, then the lug nuts are the only thing holding them there.

It is therefore advisable to make lug nut torque adjustments a part of your maintenance routine, particularly after your car’s wheels have been removed and reinstalled using impact wrenches to ensure they are not over tightened.

Given the relatively low mass of the lug nut and its close clearance from the bearing both radially and axially, I wouldn’t believe that.

Your vibration is most likely due to the new tires/wheels not being properly balanced. Or simply out of balance with the hub when balanced by the vehicle.

Once the lug nut/bolt has been replaced you will know if the vibration will continue but may not as the wheel could be put back on in a different position than when it was taken off. One way to see this is to mark the studs that the valve is on…