Ford Transit Air Conditioning Retrofit? The 86 New Answer

Warm summer days have resulted in the Transit Custom’s climate control button being pressed with reasonable regularity, showing that while the button has a light to tell you when the system is on, it’s small enough to be touched with a bare is barely visible to the eye. Like the rest of the heating and ventilation controls, it’s poorly positioned some distance from the driver, so craning your neck over the cab to look at it while driving isn’t recommended.

The gust of chill from the dashboard vents is a giveaway, of course, but the Transit Custom has manual air-conditioning – a paid option if you opt for Trend specs – instead of air-conditioning, and it’s not overly required. This allows the rider to quickly go from not quite cool enough to feeling like a lasagna that has just been blast-chilled.

Excursions to places as exotic as Welwyn Garden City and Dunstable were enlivened by the occasional thud as one of the parts of a large, old, ramshackle divan bed that has yet to be brought up against the bulkhead. While the Transit Custom has plenty of cargo attachment points, securing bulky items on an idiosyncratic basis can be a challenge even if you have enough proper restraint latches.

Maneuvering the bed into the 6.8m3 cargo space was made easier by the fact that the van is front-wheel drive, which means a low loading height. It also comes with reasonably sized doorways, which helped.

Now, with 2457 miles to its name, our Transit is slowly maturing into a pleasant, relaxing van to drive, with more than enough power from its 125hp diesel to handle most needs. The handling keeps getting better, the responsive steering aids the vehicle’s maneuverability and the suspension seems to get more and more adept to provide a comfortable ride.

Fuel consumption remains a bit of a bogeyman, however, as an average of 34mpg conflicts with a claimed combined fuel economy figure of almost 41mpg. This is further evidence, if evidence were needed, that official mpg figures are misleading and sometimes overly optimistic, particularly when it comes to commercial vehicles.

It’s getting hotter outside and it’s not always pleasant to spend the day in the sun. Vans have large windshields and, like a greenhouse, can quickly warm up the cab interior. Opening the windows can help, but on the really hot days you only let in more warm air.

That’s why your next rental car should have good air conditioning. Lower specification vans do not always come with air conditioning installed as manufacturers like to offer a choice for people who just need a reliable van as cheap as possible. There’s nothing wrong with that, but sometimes you just want a few extra ride comforts.

We’ve tested air conditioning on a range of vehicles to find out which ones get the job done and keep you cool during the hot summer months.

Luckily for anyone in need of an air conditioned van, all of the vans we have reviewed are currently in stock and available for hire from Van Ninja, although they travel fast and we cannot guarantee they will be available for long.

Van life is full of unique challenges. Some are obvious, like the space limitations of living in just a few square feet, and others may be less obvious. For example, how is the weather?

RVs and Van Lifers need to prepare for the weather at their destination. A while ago we wrote about RV baseboards that help insulate your living area to keep it warm in the winter (and cooler in the summer). Today we’re going to tackle the opposite problem: heat.

If you are traveling somewhere and the weather is nice and warm, you will surely enjoy the time outdoors. Who doesn’t love to sunbathe on a beach, explore a bit of desert, or simply stroll in the sunlight on a warm day?

The problem is that the heat is not dissipated quickly. The inside of an RV or RV can get extremely hot, making it impossible to enjoy your time during the day or sleep comfortably at night.

The easiest way to cool your RV or RV is to leave the engine running or tap into a power outlet and keep the air conditioning running, but let’s face it; that’s not really an option. There may not be a power outlet nearby, and running the engine wastes a ton of fuel. Even using a generator is noisy and inefficient for keeping your RV cool. You want passive cooling or much more efficient active cooling.

Fortunately, once you know what to do and where to look, you have many different options. Please read on for our top tips, recommendations, strategies and of course products that can help you stay cool even on the hottest of days.

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positioning and orientation

Sometimes you are restricted in where and how you can park and other times you have complete freedom.

When you decide, choosing the right orientation for your RV or RV will help keep your living area cool.

Align your motorhome so that the sun shines on the smallest possible area with as few windows as possible. Solid walls are insulated and block sunlight and heat; Windows act like a greenhouse, letting it in and keeping it in.

Find a nearby tree. Parking under the shade of a tree can block much of the sunlight that would otherwise get to your RV and heat it up, which can drop the inside air temperature by ten or more degrees.

Adjust your position throughout the day to keep up with the changing position of the sun. What about that angle that blocks the sunlight from your windows? It works well in the morning but leaves you open to the afternoon heat.

Of course, you can’t always take advantage of the positioning, and there aren’t always local trees or other landmarks to park in the shade. what else can you do

Shade your window

Windows let in a lot of heat even when the sun isn’t shining directly on them. If you can’t park in the shade, you still have an option: bring your own.

DIY awning with tarpaulin

Every RV should have a few tarps on hand, and they’re far too valuable to leave behind. Example: A bit of cord or a few supports, and a tarpaulin becomes an awning and an awning. Not only does it give you shade, but it can also help keep the sun out of your windows at the same time.

Your windshield is a large window that you can’t block, so you can cover it with a removable sunshade while you’re parked.

This comes in many different sizes and folds into a comparatively tiny package, making it suitable for almost any RV, RV, bus or other large vehicle.

Awnings are standard on many different campers and RVs, but they’re also usually a bit small and restrictive. They can shade windows and maybe give you enough shade for a chair or two in the midday hours, but when the sun is low in the sky they don’t offer you much shelter.

A side shade like this is like an awning for your awning, giving you more shade and protection.

At the more extreme end of comfort and protection from the elements is a full complement of room. It’s like folding a large tent on the side of your RV. Once you set it up you are protected from the ground, wind and sunshine from all directions and the sun setting overhead.

They’re more expensive and cumbersome than awnings and shades, but you can’t get better sun protection than building yourself a whole other room.

Whichever option you pursue, remember to consider space. You need to store those blinds somewhere, and storage space in an RV or RV is at a premium. If you don’t have built-in awnings, make sure whatever you get folds up nicely and packs away in as little space as possible.

Encourage airflow

Part of the problem of heat build-up in an RV is that the air isn’t circulating. The longer the air is trapped in your living space, the warmer and more stagnant it becomes.

So, distribute it yourself! You can do this in a number of ways.

passive cycle. Close the windows on the sunny side and open them on the shady side to let the air flow where it’s coolest.

Bleed fans. The heat rises, so the hottest air is near where your roof vents are already. Smart right? Rather than relying on vents to passively let the air out, use a ventilation fan to pull hot air out and draw cooler air in from below, preferably in a shaded area.

force airflow. Fans may make you feel slightly cooler by evaporating moisture from your skin and blowing air over you, but they don’t reduce the temperature unless they circulate the air. Make sure you have fans that pull hot air out and push cooler air in no matter how they need to be positioned.

As for which fan you should buy, you’re in luck; We’ve tested loads of them and here are our top picks.

Reduce incoming heat

Shading your windows is one thing, but there are many other heat sources that could bake your living space without you realizing it.

Check these always and twice when setting up for the day to ensure you are not adding more heat to your RV or RV than is required.

The refrigerator. Refrigerators work by drawing heat from within, and that heat has to go somewhere. Most RV’s have a built in vent to remove heat from the vehicle, but this vent could be closed or blocked so make sure it is open.

Skylight shower. If your RV has a built-in shower (luxurious, right? You can feel the envy of the RV owners), you may have a skylight to make it more comfortable to use. This skylight is another large window, however, so make sure you cover or shade it in some way when not in use.

Many living vehicles have halogen lights for everything from door lights to dome lights. These lamps give off a lot of heat. It requires some initial investment, but replacing those bulbs with LEDs reduces heat and ensures they virtually never burn out.

Cook outside. Cooking releases a lot of heat into the air around your stove, grill, microwave, or other appliance you use to prepare your food. Put it outside to keep that heat away from your living space.

Computers have fans because they generate a lot of heat. TVs also generate a lot of heat. Almost anything electronic generates heat. It may not be a lot, but every bit builds up in the hot summer months. Turn off and unplug electronic devices you don’t need, and use or charge others outdoors as much as possible.

Once you’ve covered all the bases (and windows), the only source of heat besides the ambient air temperature is your own body. Of course, don’t underestimate how much heat a person gives off; The less time you spend indoors, the less heat you have to shed when it’s time to sleep.

Build a swamp cooler

Did you know you can craft an air conditioner? It’s not even particularly difficult or expensive. A styrofoam cooler, a small fan and some plastic cups or PVC pipes are all you need. Well, that and a source of ice. Cooling has to come from somewhere!

The basic idea is to carve a few holes in your styrofoam cooler. A spot at the top lets the fan face down, bringing warmer air from outside and blowing it over the ice to cool it. Holes on the sides (or top for a PVC angle) act as vents to allow cooler air to escape. Plastic cups with the bottom removed or pieces of PVC allow you to direct the airflow in a direction of your choosing, rather than just the surrounding area around the radiator.

The trick to a swamp cooler is the ice. The colder the ice in the cooler, the cooler the air and the longer it lasts. You can even use dry ice, but if you do, make sure you have adequate ventilation. Dry ice is carbon dioxide, displacing oxygen and can suffocate you if it builds up too much. Water ice is probably a better and more accessible choice.

You can also buy ready-made evaporative air coolers that work on the same concept.

You fill them with water or ice and they are able to cool a large area with low power consumption. It’s a better long-term solution, complete with a 10-gallon water tank, wheels, powerful fan blades, and more resilience to the elements.

Consider a fog system

Nebulizers are systems of hoses and nozzles that atomize and spray water into the area around you. This water removes heat from the air as it evaporates, making the entire room feel cooler. Any mist on your skin will also help you cool down. If you’ve never shivered on a 100 degree day, you’ve never experienced a mister.

There are a few considerations that might make a fog system less valuable.

They don’t work so well when it’s wet. Because nebulizers work by evaporation, everything stays wet and sticky when the air is already saturated with moisture.

They need water to flow through them. Depending on how isolated you are from the nearest water source, this could be a colossal waste.

Some areas have strict environmental regulations, and taking your water to spray anywhere can get you in trouble.

If the water you use is mineralized (hard), it can clog the jets and require more frequent maintenance.

On the other hand, if you are in a hot and dry area where water is still readily available, a misting system can do wonders. It can lower the ambient air temperature by up to 20 degrees.

Plan your route

Probably the best thing you can do to stay cool while traveling is to plan your route so you don’t spend the day or night in a place that’s too far out of your comfort zone. Think of snowbirds that travel to Florida in the winter and Minnesota in the summer. You have complete freedom to drive and camp wherever you want (and the facilities are available), so make use of them. Don’t get stranded in the middle of Nevada in the summer, just as you wouldn’t end up in northern Canada in the dead of winter.

Considering the weather, season and local environment, they are essential for a more comfortable RV or RV lifestyle. Keep in mind that it’s cooler at higher elevations; Arizona may seem hot, but the mountains can still have colder areas at higher elevations.

The key is in the planning. Know your comfort zone, research the climate, and prepare an itinerary that will take you to the places where you feel comfortable. By avoiding the worst of the heat, all of the other methods on this list are more effective.

Van life air conditioning: the challenge of cooling your van

Finding the best RV air conditioners can be difficult when designing, building and upgrading your van.

Especially when you consider that there is no way to seriously lower high temperatures without using a lot of watts.

To clarify that last statement, I’m talking about dropping from 90℉+ (32℃) to a comfort zone around 75℉ (24℃).

Yes, you can move air with fans and create a more comfortable space, but lowering the temperature inside your van uses serious wattage.

Vanlife air conditioning systems can be complex and confusing

Installations may require duct work with holes in the outside, installation of switchboards, wiring and other engineering work.

Our goal with this resource guide is to educate you so you can select the best lifespan for 110 or 12 volt van air conditioners.

This article will help you decide which system is right for your van based on your travel area, RV style and setup.

And of course I will recommend the most trustworthy, inexpensive and durable products.

This article does not make you an expert on the all-encompassing science of heating and cooling. For that, I researched and included some great links from experts in the field. Read more about this…

How do I keep my RV cool in the summer?

Before you embark on a van air conditioner, it’s a good idea to start with the basics.

Here are our tips for keeping your RV cool in the summer.

Curtains to control the temperature in mobile homes: Reflective window coverings and window tints can reduce the inside temperature of your mobile home by up to twenty degrees!

Fans and roof vents for RV cooling and air quality are perhaps the most effective non-AC approach to keeping your RV cool in the summer.

Insulating an RV to keep the heat out and the cold in is a must. It might be time to rethink the insulation materials and design in your van.

Shadow is underrated. Park in the shade to avoid direct sunlight on your van. With the right RV shade awning, you can create your own too.

Spend as little time as possible in the van during the day.

You can lower your body temperature by staying hydrated and drinking cold water. It helps to have a good 12 volt fridge stocked with ice and cold drinks.

These basic steps lay the foundation for a cool van in the summer and will help keep your van air conditioning running more efficiently.

The fight is real

I chuckle when I see a living room air conditioner (aka “window shaker”) hanging on the side or back of a van.

The thought process goes something like this; “I’m sick of roasting and I don’t spend a fortune on a van-specific system!”

And more power (literally) for these street warriors.

I don’t want to take lightly the need, even urgency, of a good RV air conditioner.

Extreme heat and financial realities can make solutions like this seem like the only option.

But issues such as long term cost, efficiency, space saving, weight, durability and noise are also very real and I believe that with education and planning, cooler heads can prevail.

Can you use a portable air conditioner in an RV?

There are many benefits of air conditioners built specifically for RVs and other RVs.

In this episode of The Campervan Podcast, I go over the pros and cons of using a portable air conditioner in a camper van.

Please listen to the show and subscribe for more insights into Vanlife Audio.

The Campervan Podcast The Campervan Podcast is a daily audio program featuring ideas for design and build, cooking, organization, gear and more for a better overall vanlife experience. 127: Can you use a portable air conditioner in an RV? 👉 Be Ready: FREE Packing and Kitting Campervan Essentials Checklist 👉 Product: Black and Decker Portable 5000 BTU Free Standing AC 👉 Item: Campervan Air Conditioners: Staying Cool for Vanlife

👉 Podcast episode: Are there portable air conditioners that don’t need venting? Hey, thanks for tuning in to the RV Podcast. Again, I’m glad you’re listening. Another question about the air conditioning. Can you use a portable air conditioner in an RV? So, can you use a portable air conditioner and an RV? You, you absolutely can. There are pros and cons. The biggest advantage is that no installation is required. You just buy a 110 or 240 volt portable air conditioner, the freestanding kind you see in people’s homes, offices, shops, and so on. And you set it up in the van, plug it in and run the vent hose that comes with your freestanding portable air conditioner through a window or a hole cut in the side of the van. And now, cool down at 5,000 BTUs or 7,500 or 10,000 BTUs depending on how powerful your portable AC device is. Another benefit of using a portable air conditioner in an RV or RV is that it is inexpensive. There are also several disadvantages. Disadvantage number one is the power consumption. They’re not built as efficiently as the AC units available for RV, RV, and RVs that mount on your roof, or the marine-style ones that mount in cabinets and vent through the hull or side of your van. What I mean by that is that the fans and motors in the specific RV and RV air conditioners are balanced, lighter weight, tend to be better insulated, and are designed to withstand the vibrations of a motor vehicle such as an RV or RV. RV air conditioners are built to be quieter and run more efficiently because the manufacturers know you have less power available because often when running without battery and solar you also need to be quiet because it’s right upstairs Your head in the RV or RV when you sleep. So there is another disadvantage of DC powered portable air conditioners. they get louder. Another disadvantage in addition to the power consumption and the noise is the larger space requirement. They’re standing in the middle of the room and, and I don’t know about you, but I don’t have room for one like that. This is why air conditioners are so often mounted on the roof of RVs, because they need to be up and out of the way. That also solves the venting problem because it’s not even in the van. It’s outside the van. Here’s how an RV air conditioner vents itself. Another problem with portable air conditioners is that they don’t last, since they’re made for the home, they’re not made to withstand the rolling earthquake that the Back of your camper is about to be shaken around. Aside from the fact that they take up a lot of space, the thing will fall apart over time or quickly. Well, admittedly, you could set it up on the mattress every ride and be careful not to move it too much. But now you have the tank that needs to be emptied beforehand… But guess what, here’s something I understand very clearly: And that’s that we don’t all have the money right now to go for the best possible RV air conditioning installed in the roof of our van to solve our cooling problem. So, you know what, when you need to take one of those things off the shelf at Costco or Walmart or Home Depot and stick it in your van and plug it in somewhere. That’s great. And it keeps you alive and cool and lets you sleep at night if you can stand the noise. I’m not saying it’s a terrible idea. I’m just here to tell you what the pros and cons are. Moving on… Would I use one and when would I use it? In order to personally use a mobile air conditioner in the mobile home, I would first have to have a lot of space. Second, I would need to have a 110 line constantly every night to plug in the portable DC air conditioner. Now you can solve that with a portable generator, but that’s more noise and more expense. By the time you buy a portable air conditioner and portable generator, you can now about install a rooftop air conditioner and buy batteries for a few hundred amp hours. There are two categories of portable air conditioners: freestanding and “window shaker” or window mounted. Freestanding are the simplest; Just set it up and run out and plug in a vent hose and you’re good to go. You cool down with a refrigerant and compressor unit and it’s beautiful. Everything Gets Cool But another type of portable air conditioner is the window shaker or window mounted. These mount in windows or a hole cut in the wall. Yes, I’ve seen them mounted in vans too. I wouldn’t do that for several reasons, some of which I’ve already mentioned: Power consumption. not durable, not energy efficient. Uh, well, if you’re trying to use batteries, forget it, these things will drain your battery power very quickly. You have to cut a huge hole in the side of the van for it to work and function properly. Maybe your van already has a great big window in which to prop a window mounted portable air conditioner or build a wooden frame to hold one in place. If you park a lot of time with the DC 110/240 and don’t need to cut a huge hole in the side of your van, you can get one to work I suppose. The way it is designed, the outer perimeter of a window shaker, this type of portable air conditioner needs to be sealed against itself or around the wall. And by sealed I don’t mean caulk, I just mean you need to have less than half an inch of clearance around the unit. And they all have little wings that you can expand. To fit a slide up window and they come with various accessories to match house windows, this window shaker style. You can’t just put a portable air conditioner in the van’s open door. If you don’t seal the vent it won’t work. So you can crack a few windows, but other than that the doors have to be closed. so that only the air that has been treated and cooled down by the air conditioning system enters the van. And this air conditioner actually pulls warm air out of the van and turns it into cool air. It also pushes out warm air generated by the fan motor and compressor and therefore the unit must be sealed. So if you just put the thing in the open door, nothing happens. There might be a cool breeze a few feet in front of the air conditioner, but otherwise your van won’t cool. Whereas if it were in a window and that, as I said, was loosely sealed around it. Your van would go cool. Even a full blown Sprinter with a 5,000 BTU window shaker will go cool. Trust me because this room is very small. This portable, window-mounted or free-standing air conditioner is designed to cool at least twice the space. So it will work fine, but it’s not efficient, it’s not durable. It won’t last and I would never permanently mount one and I would never cut a hole for one. I would save my money and buy a roof mounted unit and go that route. I would get an RV/RV air conditioner. Thanks for listening to the campervan podcast. View podcast information

Campervan air conditioners: More comfort

Have you ever spent a night, weekend or longer in a climate so extremely cold or hot that all you remember is the trip? I certainly have.

RV trips can be fraught with challenges, and it’s important to have some control over our surroundings for sleeping and driving comfort.

Some people adapt easily to higher temperatures, so a cool place to sleep might not be a big deal. But most of us don’t get much rest if it’s too hot at bedtime.

Personally, I would like to be able to escape the heat even during the day when it is very hot.

When traveling with pets, a cool van can be an absolute necessity if you have to leave them alone for long periods of time.

So while the initial cost of a quality RV air conditioner may seem high on paper, the value of a comfortable living space can mean the difference between fun, memorable trips and miserable, sweaty, even dangerous, mishaps.

Quality & design of RV air conditioners

There are many aspects to consider when choosing an air conditioner for your van. Three of the most important considerations are power consumption, durability and noise.

RV AC Unit Efficiency

If you only use shore power and don’t plan on camping off-grid, you don’t have to worry as much about your AC unit’s power consumption.

For those who will be more self-sufficient, energy efficiency is a top priority. A complete compressor or heat pump unit uses a lot of electricity, so you should maximize your onboard performance while minimizing AC and heat consumption as much as possible.

Longevity of your RV air conditioner

It’s important to take durability seriously because RV air conditioners are subject to vibration and shock that home units don’t. For this reason, I do not recommend a “window shaker” or any other living unit for your van.

Luckily, there are several brands and models that have been around for a while, so durability is part of consumer product reviews.

Remember that most air conditioners cost so much that you will want to have replacement and repair parts on hand. We’ve done our best to source these units for our reviews below.

How Quiet Are RV Air Conditioners?

Noise can be a serious problem. After a long day of driving, the last thing you want is a noisy engine that starts, hums, hums… You want a nice, quiet place to rest, enjoy food, sleep…

If you search reviews of most RV-related machines, you will find noise-related comments.

If you sleep like a log, the quiet is less of a concern, but even late risers can be annoyed by the constant noise of machines during the day.

Noise related to the quality of the AC unit

Noisy RV air conditioners can be a sign of poor quality, mechanical or electrical problems.

In HVAC systems, quietness is achieved through fan blade balancing, insulation, proper fitment of mounting and other hardware, and the build quality of motors and compressors.

So when you’re looking for air conditioners to recommend to our readers, quiet is an important factor.

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Types of Campervan Air Conditioning Technologies

In recent years, virtually every available air conditioning technology has been adopted specifically for the space and voltage needs of RVs and RVs.

Below I have outlined the three main types of air conditioners.

Compressor air conditioning

Compressor air conditioners are the most effective way to lower air temperature. They also consume the most energy. Fortunately, there are many options for compressor air conditioners in various sizes and price ranges for RVs.

From Wikipedia:

“In the refrigeration cycle, heat is transported from a colder place to a warmer area. Because heat would naturally flow in the opposite direction, work is required to achieve this. A refrigerator is an example of such a system as it transfers heat from its interior to its surroundings. The refrigerant is used as a medium that absorbs and removes heat from the space to be cooled and then releases that heat elsewhere.”

Alternating between cooling with a compressor unit and recirculating air with a roof vent is a highly effective method of reducing internal van heat in any climate.

But to go this route to cooling, you have to plan for high energy consumption. This may involve installing a generator, comparatively massive battery banks, or driving a few extra miles for shore power when the heat is really bad.

Swamp or evaporative cooler

Again, I rely on Wikipedia to educate us with details on evaporative cooling.

“An evaporative cooler (also swamp cooler, desert cooler, and wet air cooler) is a device that cools air by evaporating water. Evaporative cooling differs from typical air conditioning systems that use vapor compression or absorption refrigeration cycles.”

A while ago I thought about a swamp cooler and the MightyKool 12 volt model K2 was clearly a great option.

I checked out the FAQ section on the MightyKool website and found this at the top of the page:

Question: Will the K2 model cool an entire RV, sleeper, boat, vehicle, tent, etc.?

Answer from MightyKool: No, as that would require air conditioning and there is no such thing as a 12 volt standalone air conditioner in the world. However, the 12 volt model K2 evaporative cooler will cool a person or pet INSIDE an RV, sleeper, vehicle, boat, tent, etc. with proper ventilation.

There’s a lot to unpack in this short Q&A.

By “stand alone 12 volt air conditioner” he means an air conditioner with its own power source that does not require external ventilation or drainage.

Some may debate this statement but I tend to agree with it as all of these things are required for a compressor/evaporative air conditioner to work and they can be considered to be outside of the unit.

Nonetheless, many van dwellers use and prefer swamp coolers over other types.

Because swamp coolers don’t cool indoors, only the person or animal they’re aimed at, they might cool you down for more if you’re traveling in very hot climates.

But again, many van and RV occupants are fine with that, preferring the simplicity and relatively low power consumption of an evaporative cooler.

Mini split heat pump air conditioning

Heat pumps work in a similar way to compressor air conditioners, but they can both heat and cool the air. It’s complicated, that’s why here’s a youtube video that does a good job of simplifying how heat pumps work and how efficient they are.

As I travel through a variety of climates, the mini-split is my preferred source of air conditioning and heat in non-diesel vans (In a diesel van, I prefer diesel heating systems).

For example, in mid-March 2018, I was parked on BLM property in Joshua Tree, California. Daytime temperatures were in the upper eighties.

That’s fine when you’re on the move, but can lead to a toast in the van during the day.

However, at night, when a steady desert wind blew, we experienced mid-40’s lows.

So on this trip I ran the Mini Split for about 30 minutes during a nap and then again for part of the night to get the temp over 60 as we didn’t pack much for lower temp blankets or sleeping bags.

The built-in thermostat on the unit kept the van between 75 and 80 degrees in all conditions and only turned on a few times, so power consumption was minimal.

Of course, power consumption is higher in hotter/colder situations.

Heat pump technology has come a long way in the last decade, making smaller “mini-split” units for RVs and RVs durable, efficient, and more affordable.

Are there portable air conditioners that don’t need venting?

There are some products that make magical cooling claims that violate the laws of physics. In this episode of The Campervan Podcast, we solve the mystery of whether there are portable air conditioners that don’t need venting.

Please take a few minutes to listen or read.

The Campervan Podcast The Campervan Podcast is a daily audio program featuring ideas for design and build, cooking, organization, gear and more for a better overall vanlife experience. 124: Are there portable air conditioners that don’t need venting? 👉 Be Ready: FREE Packing & Kitting Campervan Essentials Checklist

👉 Article: Campervan Air Conditioners: Staying Cool for Vanlife

Air conditioning is not magic. Well, it’s that time again. No, I don’t mean Christmas. I mean, when our camper van air conditioning articles and questions and traffic go haywire, a lot more people are a lot hotter than they normally would be. So yeah, I thought I’d answer a few frequently asked questions. And specifically these, are there any portable air conditioners that don’t require venting? The answer to this question is no. What do I mean? Why am I so shallow? Why am I getting to the point like this? The answer is no. Well, because when a compressor air conditioner goes through its compression process and all the other things it does to make warm air cold, it generates heat and that warmed air has to go somewhere, right? The idea that you could put an air conditioner in the middle of a van or in a room with no vent going outside… That would mean the hot air would just rush back into the room and cancel out the cold air at the expense of a high power consumption generated. So I totally disagree with these little portable compressor units and I won’t name names other than to say we don’t advertise them on Vansage.com. We are not interested in reviewing them or talking about them. We could make a lot of money from this because so many people are so excited about a little portable air conditioner that you just put on the picnic table and magically cools the whole park. I’m being a little shallow, but. Is the marketing for some of these portable, unvented units like this where it shows an air conditioner sitting outside on a table? This is madness. There’s no way it can affect you personally, maybe if it’s aimed squarely at your face. And that’s actually what I’ve heard is that the very low BTU compressor air conditioners really need to be within inches of a single person for them to even work. But I would argue again that the heat generated by generating that small amount of cold air makes the entire van warmer at the same time. Your air conditioner needs to be vented to the outside so the hot air isn’t recirculated back into the room. Again, they use so much energy. They need so much electricity for their work that it pays to have the right air conditioning. It does really well for an air conditioner that is built for your specific caravan or motorhome and make sure it is set up properly with the right ventilation or just roof mounted. Now there are some really cool marine style air conditioners that are mounted inside. Against the porch of the boat or the outside wall of the van or the bottom of the van. And they go into a closet and vent right out. And then you can direct the cool air where you want, including through what would normally be your heating ducts. They are expensive for a 5,000+ BTU unit to really do their job and cool down a very hot van. And often it is also 240V. They’re quite expensive, but at some point we plan to review some of them. And create more access because they are a great solution for RVs. If you have the skill and know how to install and maintain it and you want a really high quality air conditioner that doesn’t protrude from the roof of your van. Well, all that being said, there are some wonderful rooftops. AC units and I will of course link in the show notes to our RV air conditioner article where we have reviewed and listed some of the best available for your van. I don’t want to delve into this simple question; “Are there any portable air conditioners that don’t need venting?” I hear some people arguing about a swamp cooler, also known as an evaporative cooler. OK. Well, first of all, they are only for individuals and do not lower the temperature in the room, even in a small RV. What they do is spray your bare skin or very thin clothing or sheets so you are cooler due to the higher humidity. Well, if you’re pumping a lot of moisture into your vehicle or dispersing moisture in the form of a mist, even a very, very fine mist, which is the best type of evaporative cooling. Do you have to bleed that out of the vehicle? You need to have open windows and ceiling vents and so on so you don’t have extremely high humidity levels in your vehicle. This will cause mold and mildew and condensation and all that stuff in the future. Again, every air conditioner needs some form of ventilation, whether it’s the compressor type with a coolant inside that processes air, removing heat and creating cool air, or an evaporative cooler that disperses a mist. And one of the best evaporative coolers available is called the Mighty Kool. Availability is patchy as it is a small company that makes the one off manufacturer of the Mighty Kool 12 volt, K2. It’s interesting because the manufacturer makes their notes on Amazon about this, they’re careful enough for you to understand that it’s not an AC. The title on Amazon is “Mighty Kool. 12 volts. K2 is not AC”. And he goes on to say, “Don’t order unless you promise to read our emails so you get the right performance option for your pet,” it says. And so they encourage it to keep your dog cool. And there is also a photo in her description of the powerful cool aimed at a child in a tent or a camper or camper van. And that’s what it’s there for, pointing at a person to cool them down when it’s very hot so they can sleep. It will not lower the temperature in your van and neither will any other evaporative cooler. Maybe if you go through 20 pounds of ice every two hours and do that thing where you push air through a radiator… Those types of air conditioners might manage to bring the temperature down a bit, but for the most part a couple of ice sacs are not up to the heat in an RV or RV. The only thing that works really well is a compressor style unit and these need to be bled to work properly so the hot air created by the compression doesn’t get redistributed into the vehicle and raise the temperature. To answer the question, are there portable air conditioners that don’t require venting? The answer is no. View podcast information

Product recommendations for RV air conditioners

I wish there were half a dozen of every type of RV air conditioner I could recommend, but the field for each type of air conditioner is pretty narrow.

The good news is that the products available are great.

If you don’t opt ​​for diesel, propane or other electric heaters for your campervan, these mini split units are a great solution for all your heating and cooling needs.

Assuming you have solar, battery, a quiet generator, and shore power equipment to support power usage, a mini-split makes heating and cooling so easy you rarely have to think about it.

Compressor campervan air conditioners

Sump or evaporative 12 volt RV air conditioners

Unfortunately, there aren’t many swamp coolers on the market. This is due to the limited ability of these units to cool living spaces.

To get the most out of a evaporative cooler, the device must be pointed at the person (or pet) it is intended to cool.

This note from the manufacturer of our top pick for evaporative coolers, the MightyKool K2, warns of the limited cooling capacity of their product:

„Wenn Ihre Gegend feucht ist, senden Sie uns eine E-Mail, bevor Sie das Modell K2 bestellen, um sicherzustellen, dass es für Sie funktioniert, da es Wasser verwendet, um kühle Luft zu erzeugen.“

Dieses Produkt ist in vielerlei Hinsicht beeindruckend, und es ist bewundernswert, dass der Hersteller seine Grenzen so offen anspricht.

Wenn Sie dieses Gerät für Ihren Campervan in Betracht ziehen, denken Sie also bitte ernsthaft darüber nach, ob ein Sumpfkühler für Ihre Kühlanforderungen ausreicht.

MightyKool Ein 12-Volt-120/12-Volt-Konverterpaket Unsere Bewertung Der MightyKool K2 wird mit 12-Volt-Strom oder 120-Volt-Landstrom betrieben. Das Produkt enthält einen 120-zu-12-Volt-Konverter. Enthält auch 2 zusätzliche intelligente Kühlfilter. MightyKool bietet kostenlose Leistungspakete für Ihren Kühlbedarf

Der tragbare K2 kühlt Menschen oder Haustiere

Der K2 kühlt Ihr Wohnmobil die ganze Nacht mit einem Wassertank

Angetrieben durch 12-Volt-Steckdose oder einen 110-Volt-Konverter

Kühlt bis zu 25 Grad in trockenem Klima und 10 Grad in feuchtem Klima.

Weiterführende Literatur zu Klimaanlagen für Wohnmobile

Wenn Sie vereinfachte Informationen zur Funktionsweise von Klimaanlagen wünschen, finden Sie hier einen großartigen Beitrag zum Thema „Klimaanlage für Dummies“.

Und wenn Sie sehr tief in die Geekery von Campervan-Klimaanlagen einsteigen möchten, ist dieser Artikel genau das Richtige für Sie.

Wie wollen Sie diesen Sommer in Ihrem Van cool bleiben? Bitte hinterlassen Sie Kommentare und Fragen unten und wir werden unser Bestes tun, um zu antworten.

Thank you for reading.

Ah, the refreshing coolness of the central air in the scorching summer days. But if your current air conditioning system isn’t cooling your home and you’re ready to invest in a new system, it’s important to know what type of central air conditioning system you need and what the installation costs will be.

Installing a central air conditioner costs an average of $5,651; Typical ranges range from $3,800 for smaller systems to $7,500 for larger or upgraded systems, according to HomeAdvisor. But many factors affect the price significantly, including the type of unit you buy, the size and energy efficiency of the unit, and the layout/structure of your home.

Types of air conditioners (AC).

Before making a decision about installing air conditioning (AC), it’s important to understand the home options. Basically, all air conditioning systems can be divided into two categories: individual devices and central systems. The most common types and their cost of installation via HomeAdvisor include:

Window Unit: This single unit operates from your window and averages $150 to $500, but cooling is usually limited to just one or two rooms.

This single unit operates from your window and averages $150 to $500, but cooling is usually limited to just one or two rooms. Portable Unit: If you live in a mild climate, you may only need air conditioning for a few weeks of the year. In this case, a portable device (that moves from room to room like a space heater) might be the best option. Prices vary by brand, but expect something similar to a window unit.

If you live in a mild climate, you may only need air conditioning a few weeks a year. In this case, a portable device (that moves from room to room like a space heater) might be the best option. Prices vary by brand, but expect something similar to a window unit. Ductless Split Air Conditioner: This is a three-part system that includes an air handler, an indoor evaporator coil, and an outdoor condenser and compressor unit. Shared systems range in price from $2,000 to $14,500.

This is a three-part system that includes an air handler, an indoor evaporator coil, and an outdoor condenser and compressor unit. Shared systems range in price from $2,000 to $14,500. Central Air System: A packaged central air system contains the same elements as a split system, but they are bundled into one unit that is placed on your roof or side of your home. The system runs between $3,900 and $7,500.

How much does central air conditioning cost?

When choosing a central air system, many factors determine the overall cost. In particular, the size of your unit is an important consideration.

By “size” AC industry professionals don’t mean the physical dimensions of the air conditioner, but rather its performance – that is, its cooling capacity. This capacity is commonly referred to as BTUs, an acronym for British Thermal Unit. A BTU is a measure of the amount of energy required to lower the temperature of a pound of water by a single degree. In the context of this measurement system, 12,000 BTU is referred to as a ton. For example, a 2.5 ton air conditioner would equate to 30,000 BTUs.

This is the average cost of air conditioners, including installation, by size, according to HomeAdvisor:

AC Size Average Cost 1.5 Ton $2,500-4,500 2 Ton $3,100-5,100 3 Ton $3,400-5,400 4 Ton $4,200-6,200 14 SEER $3,000-6,000 16 SEER $3,700-9,000

In general, for every 500 or 600 square feet of space in your home, you need about a ton of cooling. Older homes with outdated frames may not be equipped to support modern systems, so you may need extensive repairs or even replacement lines costing $10,000 or more.

What Affects the Cost of Installing Central Air Conditioning?

A variety of factors can affect the final price you pay for a central air conditioning installation, including the amount of ducting involved and labor costs. Here are some of the installation costs to consider.

Evaluation before installation

Each air conditioning installation project is unique and based on the needs and condition of your home. Before any unit can be installed, it is important to have a heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) professional inspect your home. A pre-installation assessment can determine, for example, what size system you need, how well insulated your home is, and whether there are ducts and vents. Specifically, the pro performs a manual J-Load calculation to measure how your home retains heat. This determines what size unit you need, which in turn affects the cost.

“The pre-installation assessment is probably the most important step you take,” says Thomas Jepsen, founder of Passion Plans, an online platform that sells house plans. “While an assessment like this typically costs around $250, it will save you thousands over the years. The pre-installation assessment ensures you get the right air conditioner installed for your home.”

In fact, $250 can be on the cheaper end of the spectrum. Bailey Carson, home expert at Angi, says the cost averages about $420 but can run as high as $2,000 depending on the size of your home and whether you’re looking for a basic or advanced check.

Remember that a pre-installation assessment can help you avoid unforeseen setbacks that could drive up the total cost of the work done.

“As with any project, planning is the most important thing you can do to limit an unexpected expense, obstacle or surprise down the road,” says David Steckel, Home Expert at Thumbtack. “Especially with AC units, a site visit is required to create a scope of work by a professional as they will base their calculations on the size and length of the ducts, the size of the house and of course the problems to be solved.”

sewerage

Ducts and vents provide a flow system for air conditioning. Older homes may not have ducts. Depending on the type of air conditioning you plan to install, you may need to factor that into your costs, says Carson.

“There are ductless air conditioners, which tend to be both more efficient and more expensive than the alternative, and are a good option when your walls are too thin for ducts,” says Carson.

Ductless units are typically wall mounted and you need a few to cool a house. Duct devices come in two forms: traditional large format duct systems and small high velocity (SDHV) duct systems that use small, flexible hoses in place of standard ducts.

“The age and the nature of the walls in your house will determine which system you choose,” says Steckel. “Central air conditioning became popular in the 1970s. So if your house hasn’t been renovated since then, you’ll probably have to go with an SDHV system. If your house is newer, you can probably already see the duct system in your basement.”

The cost of installing ducts and vents can range from $500 to $2,100.

work

Central air systems require a professional to install, and that means labor costs make up a significant portion of the overall cost. The average cost of labor and installing central air conditioning can vary significantly depending on the size, shape, and orientation of your home, as well as the contractor, says Carson. Another factor that affects labor costs: the energy efficiency of your device.

The seasonal energy efficiency of an air conditioner is known as the SEER rating. SEER values ​​are calculated by dividing a unit’s cooling capacity for a given season by its electrical input – or usage – during the same season.

Air conditioners with higher SEER ratings offer more efficient operation but are typically more expensive to install. However, in the long run, they can save you money through lower energy bills.

How to reduce installation costs for central air conditioning

Here are some options you can use to reduce the cost of your central air conditioning project.

shopping spree

To minimize the price of installing central air, shop around to see which provider and system will fit your home and budget. Many companies can make the size air conditioner you need, but costs vary widely. HomeAdvisor found Payne to be the cheapest central air manufacturer based on an average price of $1,400, but Aire-Flo, Coleman, Comfortmaker, Tempstar, and Whirlpool are also all under $2,000.

Install in the off-season

If possible, plan to install your device in the spring or fall—before the rush begins.

research discounts

Unfortunately, the popular $300 income tax credit for homeowners who installed Energy Star rated central air conditioning expired in 2021. But you can research the availability of state and local loans for energy efficient units. Some utilities and manufacturers also offer discounts, especially if you’re installing in the off-peak months before the summer heat sets in.

Buy a smaller unit

Residential central air units are available in capacities up to 5 tons, but if you live alone or only need to cool certain areas, you could benefit from a smaller system. It’s also possible that you don’t need a new air conditioner, just some simple repairs to fix leaks or replace parts.

How to pay the cost of central air installation

A central air installation can be a four or even five figure investment, and not everyone has thousands of dollars to spare. Here are some funding options.

private loan

A personal loan is an excellent option when you need money quickly for renovations. There are almost no regulations governing its use, and loans can exceed $35,000 if you have good credit. Personal loans give you a fixed amount that is paid out as a lump sum. There is no need to use your property as collateral, but you are likely to pay higher interest rates for this type of unsecured loan. Personal loan terms typically range from 12 to 60 months and the loans have fixed monthly payments.

home loan

A home equity loan is a popular way to finance a new central air unit with the equity you have in your home. Also known as a second mortgage, this is often used for larger expenses such as a home loan. B. for the installation of a new central air system. As with a personal loan, you receive the funds in one lump sum and make monthly payments with interest until the loan is repaid. Home equity loans typically have lower interest rates than personal loans because they are secured by your home. The terms can be up to 10 or 15 years.

home equity line of credit

A home equity line of credit, or HELOC, also uses your home as collateral but works more like a credit card. Your bank gives you a credit limit that you can use over and over again within the draw period as long as you make your payments on time. This drawing period lasts about 10 years. After that, you pay the borrowed amount for another 10 to 20 years. HELOCs charge a variable interest rate, meaning your payments will fluctuate based on the amount of credit you have and the current market interest rate you’re being charged at the time you make the payment.

The final result

There is no doubt that installing a central air can be expensive. The unit cost of air conditioners can add up to $9,000 or more, especially if you have a large or old home. If that price is daunting and you don’t have the funds to pay it out of pocket, there are ways to fund the cost. If you’re looking to borrow money to install central air conditioning, compare the interest rates of some personal loans, home equity loans, and HELOC lenders to see what your monthly payments might look like.

frequently asked Questions

How much does it cost to replace a central air unit?

According to HomeAdvisor, replacing an air conditioner can cost as much as $12,500. The labor required to remove and dispose of the old system adds to the price, as does the size of your home, the brand of air conditioner, and the complexity of the plumbing.

If I already have a duct system installed, can it be used with a new unit?

While air ducts can fail over time, air duct replacement is not always necessary. If there is an airflow problem in your home, ducts can be repaired, reattached, or individually resealed. Dust and other contaminants can also be removed from old ducts to improve airflow efficiency.

Can I install my own central air unit to save costs?

A do-it-yourself approach might seem inexpensive, but it may be a better idea to leave it to the professionals.

Depending on where you live, you may need a permit to install a new unit. A professional in your area already knows the ins and outs of this process. Adding refrigerant to your air conditioner or removing an old unit with refrigerant inside may also require EPA certification. To get this type of certification, you must pass an exam and pay a fee, while a technician is already certified.

You could also end up paying more in the long run if you install the system yourself. If the plumbing is not properly sealed and insulated, your system’s efficiency will be significantly reduced and you could see massive spikes in your energy bills.

Installing the system itself may also void the warranty as most units require licensed technicians to install them.

How long do AC units last?

Air conditioners can last up to 15 years, according to HomeAdvisor. However, if a unit is used frequently or not maintained, it may need to be replaced much sooner. Devices should also be replaced if they are outdated or not working properly.

Learn more:

Back in the day, one of the first things you would throw away from your performance car was the air conditioning, assuming of course your car had one. It’s understandable, too, since the parts for most air conditioning systems were huge and heavy: large cast-iron compressors, massive condensers, and evaporators large enough to keep an industrial meat cabinet cold. That is no longer the case. Over the past decade, these heavy parts have been replaced by small, lightweight aluminum compressors, compact piping, and more efficient heat exchangers. Better still, the superchargers don’t rob your engine of power like the older units, and the stuff is so good that many race cars like the Pratt and Miller-built C6R and C75 Corvettes compete in endurance races like the 24 Hours of LeMans air conditioning to keep the riders and electronic components inside reasonably cool. So why not take some of that technology and add (or reinstall!) air conditioning to your older car? We watched Hot Rod Garage co-host Lucky Costa install this vintage Air underbody system in his 1966 Fury Wagon and were amazed at how easy the job was.

Yes, you can opt for an aftermarket air conditioner that will lower your average by 2 KMPL. It will also reduce your car’s power, so acceleration etc. might be delayed a bit. You need to monitor your heat gauge (especially in hot summer), turn off the air conditioner and check the coolant level if it gets too high. Regular (once annually) AC service will benefit you in hot summer.

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Last year tool thefts in the UK increased by 30%. Every year, petty thieves break into vans and steal tens of thousands worth of tools and cargo. Additionally, vans that are broken into often become damaged, preventing you from using them for anything useful.

Van burglaries are happening across the UK. But according to the latest data, London, Sheffield and Birmingham are the most dangerous cities to leave your van. Essex and Kent are also seeing a high number of reports of tool theft, with over 80% being due to van break-ins.

How to break into a Ford Transit

Ford Transits are the most popular commercial vehicles in the UK. While there are a number of competitors in the market such as Renault, Nissan and Mercedes, Transit dominates both retail and van fleet sales.

However, the Ford Transit is surprisingly prone to break-ins. From rudimentary “peel and steal” techniques to the latest in auto theft technology, Ford fights a constant battle to keep you one step ahead of the thieves.

While many people view these thefts as crimes of convenience, most van break-ins are committed by organized gangs. Mostly it’s 2 or 3 people who explore the area in advance. When they make their move, they have a car ready to facilitate a quick escape.

Peel and steal

Activists claim that the “peel and steal” technique is partly responsible for the rise in van break-ins.

Gangs use their knees to apply pressure to the side doors of vans before prying them open from above like sardine cans.

Force Lock

Another popular way to steal tools requires a tool of your own – in this case, a wrench. Unlike the Peel & Steal, this is a much more subtle way of breaking into a van.

electronic keys

Skeleton keys and similar locksmith tools are available online and allow thieves to be much more sophisticated in their crimes. These legal skeleton keys are legitimate tools, but are considered by some to be too readily available to the public. This makes it easier than ever for thieves to break into vans.

How to safely store tools in a van

1. Smart parking

Isolated vans are much better targets for casual thieves, so park close to other cars. Ideally, park your van in a well-lit area near or within sight of CCTV. Also, park against a wall or fence so you don’t expose your side or back doors. Give thieves as few options as possible.

2. Store tools safely

Do not leave your tools or other items on display in your van. This will only invite thieves. If possible, avoid storing tools in your van overnight. Don’t just put a sticker on your bumper, actually do it! If you can’t remove your tools overnight, build secure tool storage in your van and make sure everything is locked before you head out.

3. Upgrade your locks

Alarm systems, immobilizers and security locks are popular security solutions for vans that can offer you additional security. You should also invest in trackers and steering wheel locks. After all, your van itself is a valuable asset that could be stolen, especially if you have modified your van.

4. Secure your catalyst

Theft of van catalytic converters is also on the rise because of the precious metal they are made of. Vans have high ground clearance, which means cats are more accessible. Fortunately, anti-theft devices are on the market and a workshop can easily fit one.

5. Lock your van

It sounds silly, but opportunities arise when people let things slip. And it’s easy to forget! Imagine it’s raining and you have two bags of tools to carry. You are in a hurry or distracted. It’s all too easy to forget to lock your van as you get in and out all day.

6. Keep records

Keep a log of your receipts and keep an up-to-date inventory of your tools. This way you can keep track of your tools and highlight anything that might be “missing”. In case of theft, it will also help your insurance company.

The safest vans of 2018

Manufacturers are doing their part to help their customers keep their tools and their vehicles safe. Equipped with advanced security features and locking systems, these vans are ideal for your trading company or van fleet.

Ford Transit Custom

Price from £21,000

Maximum payload 1,450 kg

Power 170 hp

Length 5.3 meters

The new Ford Transit is available in over 450 variants when you factor in engine sizes, heights and storage options. But all of them come with advanced key fobs, tamper-resistant door locks, and two alarm options. The Ford Transit Custom is the newest and most advanced Transit yet.

The key fob has two channels, making it virtually impossible for thieves to scan or copy. Tamper-resistant locks prevent thieves from sneaking a wrench into your van doors, while a sophisticated alarm system activates automatically when you lock. It will sound a strong alarm if triggered by forced entry, the vehicle is lifted, or if the motion sensors detect movement inside.

Mercedes Benz Sprinter

Price from £24,350

Maximum payload 1,500 kg

Power 190 hp

Length 6.9 meters

The new Sprinter has some of the most advanced connectivity options available for vans on the market. This makes it an ideal fleet transporter, allowing management of fuel consumption, GPS location and security.

In addition, the new Sprinter comes standard with automatic double locking and a sophisticated alarm system as an option.

Fiorino

Price from £12,705

Maximum payload 660 kg

Power 79 hp

Length 3.8 meters

The Fiat Fiorino is one of the best vans on the market today. Small, economical but able to carry more than the competition, the Fiorino is ideal for smaller traders. In addition to the standard features, the SX version has central locking and security locks for greater security.

Van break-ins can be devastating for anyone, especially drivers and dealers trying to get back on track after a conviction or ban. Losing tools can cost you business and your livelihood. Keep your van safe by investing in security features, parking in the right spots and doing everything you can to deter thieves.

Vans aren’t exactly marketed as sporty machines, instead manufacturers understandably focus on the practicalities: load capacity, weight limits and fuel economy figures. As a result, many van manufacturers don’t even publish the 0-100 km/h acceleration times that are standard for new car promotional materials, on the grounds that no one really needs to know.

But what if you’re the type of van driver who likes to show off in the pub? We’ve compiled the list of the fastest accelerating transporters below along with their top speeds.

Although you probably won’t base your van purchasing decision solely on a vehicle’s top speed, acceleration is worth considering as the time it takes to go from standstill to 100 km/h is a realistic measure of performance is.

The speed limit is less useful as any van on this side can easily exceed the national speed limit. And no matter what other drivers may think, you’re unlikely to ever top 70mph on the tachometer in the UK.

Fastest transporters

1. Volkswagen Transporter

Our choice Volkswagen Transporter 2.0 BiTDI DSG

Pre-owned offers from £35,990

According to Volkswagen, a van with the most powerful 204 hp 2.0-liter tin-turbocharged diesel engine and the refined automatic transmission is capable of reaching 200 km/h, which undoubtedly makes it one of the fastest vans available today money can buy. A four-wheel drive version is almost as fast, doing 0-100 km/h in 9.1 seconds.

That this fast vehicle comes from a German manufacturer comes as no surprise, as the German Autobahn network is known for its non-speed limit routes, which offer long-distance drivers the opportunity to cruise at blistering speeds.

It might not have the largest cargo capacity here, but the Volkswagen T6.1 Transporter is arguably the perfect utility vehicle for hauling cargo quickly, as its steering, suspension, chassis dynamics and quick-shifting autobox make it one of the best car-like driving experiences around List.

Top speed 0-100 km/h Fuel consumption Cargo space Payload 200 km/h 8.9 seconds up to 40.4 mpg up to 9,300 liters up to 1,278 kg

2.Volkswagen Caddy

Our choice Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 TDI

Pre-owned offers from £11,490

Two vans sustaining the top five is a result any manufacturer would be happy with, and it seems VW isn’t afraid to create a commercial vehicle capable of strong performance.

The front end of the Caddy looks like a Volkswagen Golf, it has a lot of the interior of a Golf and the driving experience is not far from a Golf either. So it’s no wonder that the Caddy, with its 150 hp 2.0-liter diesel engine and manual transmission, completes the sprint from 0 to 100 km/h in a Golf-like 9.4 seconds.

With a strong list of optional extras, cutting-edge comfort and great design, the Volkswagen Caddy is one of the best small vans out there, even if it’s on the expensive side.

Top speed 0-100 km/h Fuel consumption Cargo space Payload 180 km/h 9.4 seconds up to 57.6 mpg up to 3,700 liters up to 700 kg

3. Fiat Talento

Our choice Fiat Talento 1.6 Ecojet

Used offers Limited stock

This is basically an Italian version of the Renault Trafic (it shares much of the bodywork and mechanical parts of the French van). It is relatively underpowered compared to the aforementioned Volkswagen Caddy, but still manages an impressive 180 km/h when equipped with the 145 hp diesel engine.

Talento customers also benefit from a striking exterior design, including a neat headlight signature on the more expensive options, while a handy optional cargo hatch in the bulkhead makes transporting longer items easier.

Top speed 0-100 km/h Fuel consumption Cargo space Payload 180 km/h 10.9 seconds up to 50.4 mpg up to 8,600 liters up to 1,249 kg

4.Ford Transit Custom

Our choice Ford Transit Custom 2.0 TDCi

Pre-owned offers from £11,900

There are many jokes about Ford Transit drivers and speed limits, but we won’t get into that. In fact, the latest Ford 2.0-litre TDCi diesel engines not only return an impressive 46.3mpg at their most fuel-efficient setting, they can propel the big van to 180km/h.

Again, this is one of those numbers that’s hard to find in promotional materials, so we had to take it from a Ford spokesman with authority, but with 170bhp and 405Nm of torque, we believe it.

Top speed 0-100 km/h Fuel consumption Cargo space Payload 110 km/h (estimated) – up to 46.3 mpg up to 7,200 liters up to 1,393 kg

5. Mercedes Sprinter

Our choice Mercedes Sprinter 3.0 V6 CDI

Used offers Limited stock

Often seen cruising Europe’s motorways, the Mercedes Sprinter is not only one of the most accomplished big trucks, the latest model packs some impressive firepower. A 190hp V6 diesel engine means the big van lives up to its name, and despite its gargantuan frame (it’s available in three wheelbases, nine different body styles and three roof heights), it still manages to hit a top speed of around to reach 100 km/h.

A Mercedes spokesman couldn’t track down an official number as the brand claims it’s not something they test against, but the 100 number is a good number to start with.

Add in the technological goodies of Crosswind Assist, Blind Spot Assist, Lane Departure Warning and a front collision avoidance system, and you have one of the safest and best performing long-distance cruisers on the list.

Top speed 0-100 km/h Fuel consumption Cargo space Payload 100 km/h (estimated) 10 seconds (estimated) up to 35.3 mpg up to 17,000 liters up to 2,253 kg

*Representative PCP Financing – Ford Fiesta:

48 monthly payments of £192

Deposit: €0

Mileage limit: 8,000 per year

Optional final payment for car purchase: £2,923

Total amount to pay for car purchase: £11,926

Total credit cost: £2,426

Amount borrowed: £9,500

APR: 9.9%

BuyaCar is a credit broker, not a lender. Our prices start at 6.9% APR. The rate you are offered will depend on your individual circumstances.

View all Ford specifications

Ford Transit Custom Specifications

Have you found the Ford Transit Custom of your dreams? Now you want to know all about it! With the help of Parkers you can find out all the key Ford Transit Custom specs, from fuel efficiency in MPG and top speed in MPH to running costs, dimensions, data and much more. We have the most comprehensive specifications available online.

When you’re on the hunt for a Ford Transit Custom, you’ll want to know everything about every aspect of the car – and Parkers has all the specs you need to know how it fits into your life. Find out all the details on these pages and compare them with competing models.

The Ford Transit Custom has sold so well that it’s by far the most widely available mid-size van and whether you’re shopping new or used you’re sure to find that there’s plenty to choose from.

The range is also wide enough to cover a variety of uses. Whatever you’re looking for a mid-size van for, there’s likely a Transit Custom to suit you. Here are some examples.

Best Ford Transit Custom for mpg

The smaller (and therefore lighter) the van, the farther it can go on one tank of fuel; However, picking the cheapest motor may represent false economy as you will also need a bit of muscle power to move the load easily.

Note, however, that the entry-level 105hp Euro 6 engine has more torque than the mid-range 125hp Euro 5 engine, so this rule isn’t as clear-cut for newer versions of the Transit Custom.

In any case, Euro 6 2.0-litre engines are said to be more economical than the previous 2.2-litre Euro 5 engines. But don’t be too put off if Euro 5 is all you can afford as these have proven to be reliable which should mean less downtime.

None of the engine ages are likely to get better than the late 30’s mpg anyway.

The EcoBlue hybrid models with the mHEV system introduced in 2019 should prove to be slightly more economical in terms of fuel consumption than normal vans. But if you’re working around town, the plug-in hybrid should be even better – as long as you can get the most out of the batteries.

Best Ford Transit Custom for payload

If you’re looking for maximum payload, look for a Transit Custom 340 – the number represents a gross vehicle weight (GVW) of 3,400 kg – or 3.4 tonnes.

This gives the Transit Custom one of the best payload figures of any mid-size van.

For more details on payload and loading capacity, visit our dedicated Ford Transit Custom dimensions page.

Best Ford Transit Custom for value/standard equipment

The Transit Custom is reasonably well-equipped with even the most basic Base or Leader model, but upgrading to Trend brings in a number of useful extras for not much more. Trend is our most economical choice.

However, you’ll have to further upgrade to Limited to get air conditioning, alloy wheels and an alarm as standard.

As it also gets you heated front seats, a passenger airbag and more body-colored exterior elements, Limited is also strong value for money.

Most popular Ford Transit Custom engine

The best-selling Ford Transit Custom engine is always the medium power version.

In Euro 6 conditions, this is the 130 hp / 385 Nm strong 2.0-liter variant.

For Euro 5 it is the 125 hp / 350 Nm strong 2.2 liter engine.

Ford Transit Custom individual model reviews

Still looking for the perfect Ford Transit Custom? We also have the following individual model reviews for you (click on the name to jump directly to the review):

We also have several reviews of modified M-Sport and MS-RT Transit Customs, which are covered on separate pages. Click on the links below to view these reviews; everything will open in a new window:

Ford Transit Custom LWB DCiV Trail on test

Tested November 2020 by CJ Hubbard

Is this the ultimate lifestyle van? It’s an L2 – long wheelbase – double cab-in-van version of the Transit Custom Trail, and it ticks all the boxes. After a short ride in a regular L1 van version at the original Trail launch, we’ve now delved further into this more people-friendly variant.

And to save us all a little time, as an all-round practical van that can serve as both a family van and a means of transporting building materials, we’ll start by saying that this is now our top choice for transit custom.

That puts the trail ahead of the new Active as well as Ford’s established Sport models and the funky looking MS-RT models, which you can now buy at any Ford dealership too – as far as we’re concerned. And with no VW Transporter Sportline available at the time of writing, there’s not much competition from other manufacturers either.

What makes this van so attractive?

Let’s start with the looks. Well, this FORD grille isn’t for everyone, but combined with the Transit Custom’s distinctive LED daytime running lights, superb Chrome Blue paint job and various black exterior elements, it raises the trail well above the average Transit Custom.

Once completed, not only will you look back with pride – others will also give it admiring looks.

Inside there is a really high quality set of black leather seats trimmed identically in both rows and again elevating this van above the ordinary. The fact that the surface should be hard-wearing and easy to care for is just the icing on the cake for the interior.

Visibility is great – even over the shoulder thanks to the windowed sidewalls – and there’s enough comfort to make longer trips with family and friends palatable.

Additionally, being an L2 model, this particular van easily swallows bikes and lots of other gear if you lead an adventurous lifestyle. While a payload in the 850kg range should make it useful for work too – although you can’t get an 8×4 blade in it if that’s important to you.

But it’s about more than just show, isn’t it?

Aside from the grille, other exterior touches, and leather interior, the Trail’s main selling point is the standard mLSD differential. We’ve covered exactly how this works elsewhere, but the key thing to know about it is that it helps the driven front wheels find better traction.

This makes this transporter very sure-footed on all kinds of surfaces, especially when there are different levels of grip under the front tires.

It’s a hugely impressive piece of engineering, and together with a 170hp version of Ford’s 2.0-litre EcoBlue engine and the Transit Custom’s surprisingly snappy and car-like six-speed manual gearbox, it makes this van a super satisfying experience to drive in the city and beyond roads.

It’s fast too. Transit Custom Sport and MS-RT models have 185hp – and the VW Transporter 6.1 is available at 199hp – but at no point did we feel we were missing out.

You said bigger roads…?

Ah, well, no van is perfect. And in the case of the Transit Custom Trail, it struggles a little with rougher road surfaces when lightly loaded and traveling at speed – as you would experience on some UK B-roads.

It’s also not the nimblest thing in the L2 configuration – we were surprised to find the Ranger Thunder more confidence-inspiring on the same test circuit – although the mLSD means you won’t struggle to take the power out of corners.

It comes into its own even more when you venture onto smaller roads, and the surface resembles a dirt road more than tarmac. Just remember that while there’s protective body paneling, there’s no extra ground clearance.

Any other complaints?

If you want the dual passenger seat (as tested here), you can only have a rear side door for some reason. There’s enough room to move around in the second row so this isn’t a particularly big problem. There are also suitable Isofix attachment points for child seats in the rear.

Too bad the rear interior panels aren’t as well finished as the front – which gives Ford’s concept a hint that this is meant to be a working model rather than a lifestyle choice.

So should I buy one?

If you want a versatile mid-size van that looks good, drives well and gives you that extra confidence when things get slippery, we’d go with the Transit Custom Trail now – and the DCiV model adds that family-friendly flexibility, as well as more Space for colleagues, whether at work or otherwise.

It is well equipped as standard. But we’d still try to add a few select infotainment and safety upgrades from the price list; The test van featured the “ICE Pack 25,” which included intelligent adaptive cruise control, lane departure warning, speed sign recognition and navigation, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as well as blind-spot monitors and a rear cross-traffic alert. that are always at hand in a van.

Basically, it’s another great all-rounder from Ford.

Ford Transit Custom SWB Low Roof 2.0-liter TDCi 170 (Euro 6) sports automatic tested

Tested April 2017 by CJ Hubbard

New Ford Transit with six-speed automatic

Tested in Transit Custom Sport with 170 hp

Fast performance, improved usability

This model is part of the expanded Custom Sport lineup for 2017, which has grown from one variant to six in response to what seems like an ever-increasing demand for sexy-looking mid-size vans – a demand being driven by both lifestyle customers and businesses People who want a light commercial vehicle (LCV) that helps them stand out.

The integration of the 2.0-litre Euro 6 (or Stage 6, as Ford often uses) EcoBlue engines in place of the old 2.2-litre Euro 5 (or Stage 5) engines means that the Transit Custom Sport is now available to match the show.

Combine this powerful – and refined – engine with the new six-speed automatic gearbox and the result is a powerful front-wheel drive mid-size van.

Tested here in the shorter L1 body length with the standard H1 roof height, it is almost on par in performance with VW’s fiercest Transporter Sportline models; The competition between Ford’s flashy stripes and Volkswagen’s extra-aggressive body kit is likely to be won only by personal preference.

Though given the VW’s steep price tag, your banker might have something to do with it too…

How does the Ford Transit Custom Sport with SelectShift drive?

Keen – almost to the point of overstimulation. The new 2.0-litre engine produces 20% more torque at 1,250rpm than the old 2.2-litre, and this 170hp version peaks at a whopping 405Nm. To say this is enough to get you out of busy intersections quickly is an understatement. This is a fast van.

The beauty of the SelectShift transmission – which is finding its way into the European light truck market after decades of training in the larger Ford vehicles in the US – is that this feat becomes a point-and-shoot affair.

You don’t have to worry about turning the gear change into second. In the car, you just put your foot down and drive, and the box does its best to get the maximum momentum out of the engine.

The downside is that it changes gears so quickly that it sometimes forgets to add finesse to the action – and smash through the next gear in one go. And it happily makes the most of its abilities, often shifting to a lower gear when all you wanted was a little smoother acceleration from the current one.

Quite quibbling, it’s also all too easy to select manual mode instead of normal driving when driving off due to the design of the dash-mounted shifter.

But with manual changes easily activated by the toggle switches on the side of the shifter when needed, and the promise of reduced maintenance costs (automatic vans generally have far less appetite for clutches than beat-up manual equivalents, even if their thirst for fuel may be like higher) the SelectShift certainly has its place in the range.

What’s the rest of the Transit Custom Sport package like?

Very cute.

In addition to the obvious bonnet stripes, all Custom Sport models get a full color-coded body kit, including redesigned wheel arch extensions, plus 17-inch alloy wheels, part-leather seats and the latest Ford Sync infotainment system.

More importantly, they also get an upgraded chassis. The Sport is the only Transit Custom with a factory-fitted rear anti-roll bar, which works in tandem with a thicker front anti-roll bar to reduce cornering.

You also get firmer rear shocks for sharper handling, combined with softer rear springs to improve unladen handling – Ford’s way of acknowledging that many of these vans are bought to look good rather than to carry heaps of gear.

The changes are largely successful. Although we still found the rear handling to be a little unsteady, and the Transporter Sportline’s even less of a roundabout tumble, this is a van that’s both fast, safe and fun to drive.

In addition, the refinement in the cabin is far better than that of the VW, with a greater sense of solidity in relation to the Custom’s overall structure. It really does feel quite premium.

Should I buy a Ford Transit Custom Sport Automatic?

Overall this is an impressive addition to the Transit Custom range. The SelectShift automatic works well; Coupled with the most powerful engine in the range, it’s arguably a tad too aggressive, but more importantly it’s more of an enhancement to the driving experience than an obstacle.

If you’re one of the many who’ve been eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Transit car, we don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

And as always, the Transit Custom Sport remains one of the most characterful and fun-to-drive vans on the market – the fact that you can now get one with 170hp and 405Nm only adds to the appeal.

Ford Transit Custom SWB Low Roof 2.2 liter TDCi 155 (Euro 5) Sport Test

Tested in June 2015 by Liam Campbell

The sports model gets big wheels and a body kit

Powered by the top 2.2 liter diesel engine

Available in short wheelbase, single cab only

We drive the new Ford Transit Custom Sport Van on a test track through Essex. Across the way, in slow-moving traffic, a shirtless man in an elderly Transit rolls down his window and gestures for us to do the same.

He stops next to him and leans forward. “That’s pimped, mate,” he grins, gives us a thumbs-up, and drives off.

Not the typical response you might expect from a short-wheelbase Transit, but the Custom Sport Van is a head-turner. With 18-inch alloy wheels, a body kit and, most notably, a pair of racing stripes on the hood, it definitely stands out.

History of the Transit Custom Sport Van

The 2013-Up Custom Sport Van is the latest in a line of limited-edition Sport models that hark back to the larger 2-tonne Transit Sport Van that first appeared in 2006.

They’ve all followed a similar formula: take the short-wheelbase, low-roof Transit, give it the most powerful engine in the range, and top it off with additional equipment, more aggressive styling, and of course, stripes.

It’s a formula that’s been incredibly successful, with all previous Sport Van models selling out quickly. Now it’s the turn of the smaller, one-ton Transit Custom that launched last year to get the sports treatment.

What is the Transit Custom Sport Van based on?

The Custom Sport Van is based on the existing Custom Limited model, but gets partial leather seat trim and a few extra touches: a rearview camera integrated into the rearview mirror with hitch assist (which helps you find your way to the ball of a trailer); and a lane departure warning system that vibrates the steering wheel if you cross a white line without blinking.

This system is useful if you’re feeling very tired during a long drive, but can be turned off if you find it irritating on a short drive.

Under the bonnet is the most powerful engine available for the Transit Custom, a 155PS 2.2-litre TDCi turbodiesel with a six-speed manual gearbox. There are no mechanical changes under the skin of the Sport Van: this van is all about styling and image.

This exterior body kit includes an additional spoiler lip on the front bumper, side skirts, a rear bumper extension and wider wheel arches.

Everything is body color (except the stripes), including the mirrors and rubbing strips. There is a choice of colours: white with black stripes, black with white or a Dennis the Menace tribute red with black stripes.

How is it?

Just like the regular Custom, it’s a nice machine to ride on the road. The manual gearbox is a highlight, with short, snappy shifts that feel more like the kind of gear changes you’d find in a Fiesta than a full-size van.

The interior feels like a car, too, with a dashboard design that looks sleek and appealing, yet feels durable.

Like the regular Limited version, it has DAB digital radio and the Ford Sync connectivity system, giving you access to functions on your phone on the go.

The 2.2 liter TDCi engine has a lot of torque and moves the vehicle quite quickly. Unladen, the Sport Van moves well enough to justify the word “Sport” in its name.

On the economy front, Ford says it will achieve average fuel economy of up to 42mpg.

Should I Buy a Ford Transit Custom Sport Van?

It’s hard not to love the Custom Sport Van.

It has all the good points of the regular Transit Custom – of which there are many – and its added features over the Limited make it a vehicle you’d love to spend time in and live with every day.

This body kit adds an extra dose of personality to an already good looking van – it’s full of character.

Some would even say it’s “pimped”.

Ford Transit Custom SWB Low Roof 2.2 liter TDCi 100 (Euro 5) Econetic test

Tested in June 2015 by Liam Campbell

Economy Focus for Transit Custom Econetic gives 44.8 MPG

Stop-start and other systems reduce the thirst for diesel

The tested version costs £20,470 excluding VAT

In today’s economy, where many companies are beginning to foster growth spurts, fuel-efficient vans like the Ford Transit Custom Econetic seem to make sense.

At least on paper – but is that an advantage in the reality of the Transit’s life as a workhorse?

Practical and spacious workhorse

Externally, the Econetic model resembles other basic versions of the latest Transit Custom. Short and long wheelbase versions are available with a range of three payloads.

We tested the short-wheelbase 310 model, which has a payload capacity of up to 1,295 kg in its 5.36 cubic meter cargo area. Even this shorter Transit Custom can still fit three wooden pallets and their load, to put it in layman’s terms.

The Ford doesn’t mind hauling long items either – a hatch low down on the passenger side of the bulkhead opens to carry materials up to 10 feet long – an additional 21 inches above the main cargo area.

Our test van had optional LED lights in the cargo area, which were blindingly effective when rummaging around at night. For the relatively small outlay, this is an extra we’d recommend.

In the base configuration, much of the exterior molding is made of tough, unpainted plastic that’s designed to be a little rough and tough over the life of the van. However, front and rear parking sensors look tempting, especially when fitted with fog lights.

More efficient than ever

Under the bonnet of the Econetic is a revised version of the 100hp 2.2-litre diesel found in other Transit Customs.

The economy crusade is supported by a stop-start function, a system that charges the van’s battery more efficiently and an “acceleration control”. The latter reduces the effect of the gas pedal when the van is empty and promises fuel savings of up to 15%.

Although the engine produces a useful 310Nm of torque at just 1,300rpm, the power boost soon wears off, requiring many shifts between the Transit’s six gears to move forward with any degree of comfort.

It can be disconcerting on freeways, where overtaking maneuvers can feel icy unless two gears are dropped.

On the plus side, all of these techniques improve the Econetic’s average fuel economy to 44.8mpg, bettering the standard equivalent’s 42.2mpg. This gives a theoretical range of 788 miles in the Econetic versus the regular Transit Custom’s 742 miles between refills.

With differences that small, the Econetic needs to be driven 2,347 more miles before it pays for itself.

But reality calls for a longer distance: consider that when tested with a mix of city crawling and freeway driving, our Econetic bested 36.7mpg and the range dropped to 645 miles.

Should I buy a Transit Custom Econetic?

With the Transit Custom Econetic, Ford is targeting a very specific target group of business customers, for whom the vans would predominantly lead a working life in urban areas with lower speeds.

This is where the fuel-saving measures and the stop-start function would come into play.

But if you regularly haul heavier loads or commute longer distances, you’re far better off with an admittedly thirstier 125hp or 155hp version.

In hot weather, air conditioning not only contributes to our comfort but is also necessary to avoid the risk of heat-related illnesses such as heat exhaustion and heat stroke. car air conditioning.

Many of us, especially those living in the south, just can’t imagine driving our cars without air conditioning most times of the year. In hot weather, air conditioning not only adds to our comfort; It is necessary to prevent the risk of heat-related illnesses such as heat exhaustion and heat stroke.

With that in mind, there are steps you can take to improve the cooling performance of your car’s air conditioner, reduce fuel consumption, and reduce the chances of it breaking down.

Here are 9 tips on how to do it

Improve your car’s AC performance.

1. Start the air conditioner while driving

Many people tend to start their air conditioning before driving. However, this can be a waste of time and fuel. Your car’s air conditioning works much more efficiently while driving because the compressor can run faster with the rotation of the engine’s crankshaft. Opening the car door and sunroof to get rid of the hot air inside before you drive can also cause the car to cool down faster.

2. Blinds

The less sunlight entering your car’s interior, the less the air conditioning has to work to keep its temperature cool. While the glass of modern cars is effective at blocking UV and infrared light, it does little to block visible light. As it passes through the glass, it is converted to infrared light and thus remains trapped inside, heating the interior.

Installing blinds can be a very affordable means of limiting the amount of heat build-up. Of course, before venturing into the blinds market, you should check with your local laws to ensure that the ones you are purchasing are not illegal in your jurisdiction.

3. Check the refrigerant

Extensive use of the car’s air conditioning system can lead to a gradual decrease in the system’s refrigerant, mainly through leakage. A lack of refrigerant within the air conditioner can result in poorer performance, especially at high temperatures. Consider having it checked every 6 to 12 months to ensure it is at optimal levels and that there are no leaks in the system.

4. Keep the AC capacitor clean

An AC condenser is usually located just in front of the car, just behind the grill. It is a component responsible for re-cooling the air conditioning refrigerant by releasing the excess heat into the airflow passing by. However, dirt and debris can accumulate and clog the airflow path, resulting in greatly reduced cooling efficiency. Have it checked and cleaned regularly to keep it working at its best.

5. Check the AC filter

Worn, dirty air filters are usually one of the main causes of your car’s air conditioning failure. As the name suggests, they filter out foreign bodies such as dust, dirt and pollen from entering the system. Over time, they can clog and therefore need to be replaced regularly.

If you don’t replace your car’s old air filters, the air conditioning system has to work harder to push the air through, increasing fuel consumption and resulting in reduced cooling capacity.

6. Switch the air conditioner to recirculation mode

Often it may be more efficient to put your air conditioner in recirculation mode rather than letting the outside cool it, especially when said outside air is above 100F. When you start driving, roll down the car’s windows for a few minutes and turn the AC controls into fresh air mode, letting the hot, stagnant air escape outside. If a sunroof is installed, be sure to open it as well. As hot air rises, this can help it escape from the car much faster. Then close the windows and switch the air conditioning to recirculation mode.

7. Install an AC curtain

For larger SUVs, minivans, and MUVs, it can be wasteful to cool the entire interior when there are only a few occupants. Installing an AC curtain can reduce the area to be cooled inside, allowing you to reach a comfortable temperature much faster.

8. Park smartly

Try to park your car in the shade if possible. Since most of the heat entering the car comes in the form of radiation, constant protection from direct sunlight can mean a temperature difference of up to 30 degrees.

In case you cannot find any shade to park your car, you can also easily open the windows of your parked car as long as there are no risks associated with it at the indicated location. Allowing air to circulate throughout the car can help keep the interior from getting as hot as it would otherwise.

9. Have your car serviced

No matter what machine, it performs at its best when well maintained. In order for your car’s air conditioning to work optimally, you should have the car regularly checked and serviced by professionals. They check that all the various components and hoses are working properly, check them for leaks and damage, and have them repaired or replaced if necessary.

As demand tends to be highest in the summer months, it is better to book the car service in advance so you can benefit from reduced prices and shorter waiting times.

final remark

No matter how hot the temperature outside, by following these tips you can ensure the interior of your car stays cool no matter what. In addition, you will contribute to your savings in the long term by paying less for fuel, as well as for repairs or replacement of parts related to the car’s air conditioning system. If you found the content of this article helpful, be sure to share it with others who may also find it useful.

Understand the differences between home and vehicle air conditioning

As summer approaches here in the Akron and Canton area, residents prepare for the summer heat by keeping their home air conditioners in good working order. By the end of June, when temperatures soar into the 80’s, the area’s air conditioning units will be running constantly. For this reason, it is important that local residents understand that their home air conditioning is not like their car’s air conditioning system. This might seem like a simple concept at first, but to ensure maximum efficiency from your home cooling system, it’s important to be aware of the differences.

How home air conditioners differ from air conditioners in vehicles

Both work on the same basic principle: remove hot air from the house or vehicle and release it outside. Both systems are similar in structure and function and consist of:

A compressor. The compressor compresses the refrigerant stored in the air conditioner and raises its temperature until it turns into vapor.

A capacitor. Heated steam is then sent into the condenser coil where it is cooled and the heat is removed and vented to the outside.

A vaporizer. The indoor air flowing through the system comes into contact with the evaporator coil, which absorbs the heat.

Differences in optimal temperature control between the two systems

Everyone knows the pain of having to start your vehicle in winter to get it warm enough to drive. But it’s rare in the summer for someone to go outside, start their car and let it cool down before driving. Typically, people just start the vehicle, turn on the air, and drive off immediately, knowing that the vehicle will cool down in a matter of minutes.

Now imagine doing the same thing at home: you go to work in the morning with the air conditioner off, and when you come back in the evening you turn it back on and expect it to reach a comfortable temperature shortly thereafter. And when not? You’re frustrated, think it won’t work, and prepare to call a refrigeration specialist in the morning. But when you wake up in the morning, your house has finally reached the temperature you set it to. That’s because it can take four to six hours for the house to cool down. It is not possible to make your house as cool as your car in minutes for a number of reasons.

While a vehicle air conditioner is designed to cool a 6″ x 6″ room, the home air conditioner is designed to cool an entire house, which may be thousands of square feet of living space.

While people are at work, the house is heated during the warmest part of the day. Expecting to dissipate the accumulated heat in a short time is impractical.

A better way to cool your home

Knowing the weather conditions during the time people are away from home should help them know what temperature to set their thermostat to to ensure the home is at an ideal level of comfort when they return. If you see it going up to 85 degrees the next day and you want the house to be 70 degrees, make sure that thermostat is set there now. It’s fine to crank the temperature up a few degrees while you go to work, but if you have a programmable thermostat, set it to set to your desired temperature about an hour before you return. But if you turn it off completely or crank it up too much and then turn it on when you get home, don’t expect it to do what you want for hours.

Need help with the air conditioning? Contact Forquer Heating & Air Conditioning in Akron, OH

Akron and Canton residents who need help with their home air conditioning should contact Forquer Heating & Air Conditioning today.

Disclosure: We may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

One of the greatest human inventions is air conditioning in cars. The creation of this amazing machine varies in BTU sizes. That’s why you’re wondering how many BTUs does a car air conditioner have. Don’t be surprised anymore! We have already researched this article and we have the answer for you. let’s discuss

In general, most cars today use 12,000 BTU or 1 ton air conditioning. That is, if the interior of your vehicle is about the size of a normal home bathroom.

However, an SUV or other custom larger car will need a BTU in the 18,000 to 36,000 range.

Knowing the BTU in your car’s air conditioning system will determine how efficient it is at quieting your car’s interior. Stay tuned as we walk you through some follow-up questions I’m sure you have in mind. Let’s start the discussion below!

How cold should a car air conditioner be?

Anything around 35° to 40° Fahrenheit is a good temperature in your car.

That’s when the outside humidity is 70°F. On extremely hot days, when the ambient temperature is an awful 80°F, you need 45° to 50°F.

How can I make my car’s air conditioning colder?

On a hot day, it’s tempting to turn on your car’s air conditioning and instantly crank it to maximum cooling. Despite this, we tend to turn our car’s air conditioning system to maximum as soon as we get in our car.

However, starting the air conditioner immediately is not the best approach to cool the interior of the car. If you immediately turn the car’s air conditioning system to the maximum level, hot air in the car will be sucked in and blown inside.

Here below are some basic methods to make your car air conditioner colder:

Replace air filter regularly.

Park your car in a shady spot.

Roll down the windows of your car.

open your door

Protect your vehicle with a sunshade.

Should I leave my car’s air conditioning on all the time?

It’s good to leave your car’s air conditioning on as long as you’re inside. However, we don’t recommend leaving it on all the time when you’re not using it.

Instead, save freon gas, battery and fuel. In addition, it can also prevent your car from overheating, so use your car’s air conditioning wisely. Don’t leave it on unattended all the time.

Is it ok to leave the air conditioning on while parking?

Idling is known to be when you turn on your car’s engine while parked. This is generally not harmful if you leave the car’s air conditioning running while parked to adjust the idle speed.

Adjusting the idle speed to 1,500 rpm will ensure that your car can support the operation of your air conditioner. Have peace of mind knowing that leaving your vehicle in the scorching sun for hours and not harming it is car safe.

WARNING: Also make sure that you do not open the window of your car. Smoke from your vehicle can harm children and the elderly.

Does using the air conditioner consume fuel?

Like many other systems, your car’s air conditioning system uses fuel. Your AC system requires a motor that runs on a fuel-driven alternator.

Your car needs to get the energy it needs to keep your air conditioning running. If you want a nice, air-conditioned car, you’ll have to spend some of your fuel money on it.

After all, it’s always worth using a little gas to stay cool and comfortable.

Does a car air conditioner consume more fuel?

You may be wondering if your vehicle uses more fuel when using the air conditioner. Well the truth is yes! This is due to the additional load on the engine.

When the engine is running, it needs the power to move the engine and run the air conditioning. This increases fuel consumption by around 25%, especially in sweltering heat.

Additionally, the effect of gradually increasing your fuel efficiency can be greater with hybrid AC systems and electric cars.

Which is more economical: air conditioning on or windows off?

SEA International conducted a test in the United States using a Ford Explorer and a Toyota Corolla. Both cars are 2009 models. The purpose of this test is to evaluate the fuel economy penalty.

This includes driving with the air conditioning on and the windows down.

They assess both cars at steady speeds of 64.4 to 113 km/h or 40 to 70 mph. The result shows that both cars used more fuel with the air conditioning on than with the windows down.

In addition, they added that this test was conducted under the maximum cooling load of 100% of the compressor duty cycles.

How long can the car air conditioner run on battery?

Your vehicle’s battery can provide approximately 28 to 30 minutes of air conditioning operation with the engine off. If you want longer use, you need to choose a higher amperage value so as not to shorten battery life.

However, we do not recommend using your car’s air conditioning if you only rely on your car’s battery.

How long does freon last in a car?

In general, a brand new car air conditioner can last five years without needing to be charged with freon. Refrigerant, or freon, vaporizes when blown back into your car’s air conditioning system to cool your interior.

How often do I need to top up my car’s air conditioning refrigerant?

You should top up your car’s air conditioning refrigerant every 1 – 2 years of normal use.

However, some vehicles can be used for about five years, but this depends on the frequency of use and the climate in which you usually travel.

Regular maintenance of your car is essential, so keep that in mind.

It’s ideal for taking your car to a gas station to charge your vehicle’s air conditioning on a regular basis. Even the best refrigerated vehicles lose 10% of their refrigerant annually if you don’t service your car regularly.

Why does it take so long for my car air conditioner to get cold?

A well-functioning car air conditioning system greatly affects the life of most motorists on the road. Even a slight delay in cooling your car can add to your distress or stress when you get in. There can be various reasons why this problem occurs.

The following are the main reasons why your car’s air conditioning system takes so long to cool down:

coolant leakage

Coolant leaks are probably the most common causes of a car air conditioner taking a long time to cool down. Also, a lack of refrigerant in your air conditioner can also cause it to cool longer than anticipated.

In addition, if you do not tackle this problem immediately, you risk damaging the entire air conditioning system of your vehicle.

Problem with the coolant valve

The valve can trap hot coolant inside, preventing the valve flapper from closing properly. You can test and run your heater to check if that caused the problem.

If the problem persists, don’t hesitate to call an AC expert to have this problem fixed.

Dirty cabin air filter

A dirty air filter will also keep your air conditioner cool for much longer. Because it cleans the air before it enters the car’s vents, the filter can capture a significant amount of dust and air debris.

This prevents the cool air from passing through the car’s air vents more quickly.

Defective outdoor air flaps

Outside air flaps should not be open when the vehicle’s air conditioning system is operating. Otherwise, warm air will flow into the interior of the car if the flap does not close properly.

A small mechanism known as a damper actuator is responsible for activating the device to control the air movement of your air conditioner.

If the damper actuator is not working properly, you may notice a squeaking noise when you use your air conditioner. This indicates that the device needs to be repaired or replaced.

Check out this Air Flap Actuator on Amazon.

Low Refrigerant

When the refrigerant is running low, it can take too long to cool your car. It starts blowing warm air through the vents, making the interior of your car even more uncomfortable.

A defective compressor

Suppose the AC compressor does not apply any pressure to the gaseous refrigerant. It doesn’t convert it into a high-pressure gas or liquid that helps remove heat from its system.

In addition, an unusual noise occurs when you turn on your air conditioner. This grinding noise is due to a faulty compressor bearing or clutch, causing your compressor to malfunction.

wrapping

Your car’s air conditioning system plays a crucial role in maintaining the comfort you need while driving. In this article, we’ve gathered tons of helpful information to help you maintain your car’s desired temperature.

You also know how to cool your air conditioner faster. In addition, you have also learned that idling your car does not threaten your car and your air conditioner.

We are happy to share with you all this significant knowledge. We hope that one day you will use this to your advantage.

Made it this far? Check out these helpful related posts below!

Freezing of the evaporator of the car air conditioner – what to do?

Can a Car Air Conditioning Compressor Leak Freon?