Front Macpherson Strut Replacement Cost Uk? 287 Most Correct Answers

Has this happened to you? You go to your regular spot for a simple oil change and the mechanic says, “You could use some new shocks and/or struts by the way.”

Your first thought is probably, “Really? I wonder what that’s going to cost!” Your second thought might be, “How do I know if I really need new shocks/struts?” This is a great question as most of us have no idea how long shocks or struts last struts should hold.

How long do shock absorbers/struts last?

This depends on many factors. You can think of shock absorbers or struts like tennis shoes. If you only wear them on the weekends to go to the mall they will last a lot longer than someone who wears them every day, skateboards and uses their shoes as brakes quite often!

This means your shocks or struts will last longer if you drive fewer miles, drive on nice smooth roads, don’t drive like speed racers, and don’t carry a lot of weight in your vehicle.

On average, if your car has been babysat, you can expect your shock absorbers/struts to last around 10 years. If you’ve really used your car like a workhorse, 5 years is probably all you can expect. This means that for the average rider, 7 or 8 years is the maximum life expectancy of most shock absorbers and struts.

How do I know if my car has shock absorbers or struts?

Most cars and SUVs on the road today have struts on the front wheels and shock absorbers on the rear. It is possible that your vehicle has 4 wheel struts or if it is a very old vehicle four shock absorbers, but this is not so common.

You can always check your owner’s manual which should tell you what your vehicle comes with, or you can get on your knees and take a look. Shock absorbers, or shock absorbers for short, look similar to the shock absorbers you see on the front wheels of bicycles. Struts are encased in a coil spring and are much more complicated designs. This is because struts are an integral part of the front suspension.

If you’re still not sure which one you have, bring your vehicle to Auto Lab and we’ll give you the answer you’re looking for.

5 sure signs you need shock absorbers or struts

Some people never replace their shocks or struts because, frankly, they don’t realize they’re worn out. How can you say that for sure? The following are 5 safe signs.

Plunging front end or drooping bottom

When you drive over a speed bump or hit the brakes a little harder than normal, does the front of your car drop like a curtsey to the queen? This is a typical sign of worn struts in the front.

Alternatively, if you’re reversing out of a driveway and the rear wheel hits the curb dip, does the rear of the car bottom out? Does it scratch the pavement? These are signs that the rear shock absorbers have reached the end of their useful life.

leaks

If you can get a flashlight, you can take a look at your shock absorbers and struts. Do you see fluid (usually brown in color) leaking onto the lower portion of the shock or strut? While elsewhere you might have a leak splashing onto the shock, this is a different story. This liquid leak should come straight down and not just have a liquid splatter on one side.

Be wary of unscrupulous mechanics who will squirt some oil around your shock absorbers or struts and then bring them to you to show you the ‘leaking’ part. Ask them to clean it with a rag and go home. If it leaks you will see it again within a few miles.

A bouncy ride

This is perhaps the most common of all signs, but it’s easy to miss as most people get used to the way their car drives over time.

One way to check this is to bump into or stand on the bumper and hop up and down a few times, then jump off (be careful not to fall!). The car should bounce once more and then stop. If it continues like this two or more times, it’s time for new dampers or new struts.

A loss of control

Another telltale sign is when you make a turn or hit a pothole you didn’t see. If you feel the vehicle sway or if it just feels like it’s not stable, the struts are probably bad.

An old-fashioned way of checking this is for you or someone else to drive the vehicle while you follow behind. When shock absorbers and struts are very worn, you can see the car bouncing or swaying from side to side very easily.

tire wear and vibration

While vibration felt in the steering wheel is sometimes due to wheel imbalance, it can also indicate worn struts.

Your tires also provide information about the condition of your front struts. Tires with so-called “cupping” (which look like bare round cup marks) are often caused by very worn struts. Unfortunately, this doesn’t happen that often with rear shocks, but if you’ve never changed your struts, chances are the rear shocks are worn out too.

How can you know for sure?

For those of you who are very inexperienced in this area and want to know for sure that your vehicle needs these vital parts, you can always count on the professionals at Auto Lab.

We are happy to assess the condition of your shock absorbers and struts and then explain what we see and what we recommend and why. You can trust the team at Auto Lab for all your car care needs, whether it’s an oil change or new struts.

When struts and shock absorbers should be replaced

Shock absorbers and struts are parts of the vehicle suspension that absorb shock from bumps and potholes and keep your vehicle smooth and stable. What is the difference between a shock absorber and a strut?

A strut is the shock absorber built into one unit with the coil spring. Every car has four struts/shock absorbers; one on each wheel. Most cars and SUVs have struts in the front suspension and shock absorbers or struts in the rear.

Suspension struts and shock absorbers are maintenance-free units. Does that mean they never need to be replaced? There is no need to replace a strut or shock absorber unless there is a problem with it or you simply want to upgrade your vehicle with new shock absorbers. The most common problem with shock absorbers and struts is when they start to leak. Suspension struts and shock absorbers are filled with oil. If your mechanic, during a regular inspection, notices that a strut or shock absorber is leaking, it needs to be replaced because it will no longer work without an adequate oil level. Sometimes a shock absorber stops working even without visible leaks.

What are the symptoms of a bad shock absorber or strut? Symptoms include springing and/or knocking when going over bumps. You may also notice that your car rocks more up and down, like a boat. To locate a weak or failed strut or shock, your mechanic can perform a quick “impact test” where each corner of the vehicle is pressed down and quickly released. The corner with the weak shock absorber bounces up and down longer, while the corner with the good unit bounces back slowly, bouncing no more than twice.

Another common reason for replacing struts is hitting a large pothole, curb, or after an accident. In each of these cases, the strut may be bent, which may not be visible. Driving with a defective strut or shock absorber is unsafe. Additionally, if one shock absorber or strut is not working, the other three will be subjected to more stress, causing them to fail sooner.

Do both shock absorbers or struts have to be replaced if only one is defective? It’s not necessary, but it’s usually recommended to swap them out in pairs, e.g. B. both front struts or both rear shock absorbers. This is because a new shock absorbs road bumps better than the old one. If you’re just replacing a shock, you may experience “bump” when riding over bumps from side to side. However, if your car is not very old, replacing just one strut or shock absorber may be enough as the opposite side is not yet worn out.

When replacing the struts, do the coil springs have to be changed? The answer is no: if the spring is in good condition, it can be reused with the new strut.

If one coil spring fails, do they both need to be replaced? The answer is a bit tricky: the coil spring sags over time, so if you put the new spring on one side and leave the old one on the other side, the side with the new spring may ride slightly higher than the opposite side. However, if your car isn’t very old and you’re replacing the broken spring with the OEM part, it might be ok to just replace one. Of course, your mechanic might recommend replacing both springs to keep your suspension “even,” but again, this isn’t necessary.

Strut replacement costs can range from $600 to $850 per pair. When replacing spring struts, wheel alignment must also be carried out in most cases. Wheel Alignment starts at $79.99. When replacing the struts, the coil springs, which are under high tension, must be removed. Because of this, it is not easy to make it at home as a DIY project. It is best to entrust this work to your mechanic as most garages have a special spring tensioning tool that will safely install or remove a loaded strut.

Driving a car with a broken or damaged suspension system is like walking with a broken leg. It feels unbalanced and unstable which can cause you to lose control of your car or worse.

Their suspension system provides ride comfort by leveling out bumps in the road and traction by keeping the wheels on the ground as much as possible. Over time, parts of your suspension can wear out or break completely. In this case, is it still safe to drive your car?

Generally, the damaged or worn part needs to be repaired or replaced before your car is driven. However, this may vary depending on the defective part.

Can I ride with a damaged shock absorber?

no It needs to be repaired as soon as possible.

A strut works by absorbing the impact of your car as it drives over bumps in the road. Struts at the front of your vehicle are also critical to steering and alignment. Driving with a broken strut is extremely uncomfortable for you and your passengers and unsafe in an emergency. It can also damage other components in your car.

Can I ride with damaged springs?

no It is not recommended.

A damaged or collapsed spring can cause sagging, noise, and affect alignment angles. You can still drive, but the ride will be bumpy and the car will be difficult to control in an emergency. Also, impacts can damage other parts of the car. If the springs have collapsed so much that your car’s body is resting on one or more tires, it is unsafe to continue driving your car as your tire could break apart at any time from contact.

Can I drive with damaged wishbones?

Yes. Although you need to be extra careful.

The wishbones allow the suspension to pivot on bushings for quiet arm articulation during movement. They are connected to the frame and house the ball joints. Wishbones can be damaged when driving over potholes or in an accident. Bent control arms can affect your car’s alignment, causing driving problems and additional tire wear.

Can I drive with a damaged driveshaft?

no It should be checked as soon as you notice symptoms.

Commonly found on rear-wheel drive cars, the driveshaft transmits torque from the engine to the wheels. They are a very precisely balanced and weighted component as they rotate at high speeds and torque levels to turn the wheels. If there is a problem with the driveshaft, intense vibrations and unusual noises will appear under the car. Any of these symptoms should be checked by a certified mechanic as soon as possible, as a damaged driveshaft could lead to accelerated wear on other suspension and drivetrain components and cause further damage.

Can I drive with a damaged anti-roll bar?

Yes. However, preferably not for long.

There are very few parts in your suspension system that you can safely leave alone for a while after a breakage or failure. A stabilizer is one of them. A broken anti-roll bar will make the car roll more in corners, but it’s safe as long as all four wheels stay on the ground. However, a damaged anti-roll bar means it is more difficult to make sudden turns, e.g. E.g. emergency manoeuvres, requiring you to drive slower than normal until the anti-roll bar is replaced.

Can I drive with a flat tire?

no Change it as soon as possible.

As part of your suspension system, tires can be damaged by the road surface. Driving on a flat tire can not only destroy your wheel, but also make it difficult to stop quickly in an emergency, and your car could pull sideways sharply or make steering difficult.

Can I ride with a damaged bike?

no Your car won’t move at all if a wheel is broken.

While it is possible to ride on a cracked wheel, it is not recommended. Because a crack could become a complete rupture any second, leading to catastrophic failure and possible crashing.

Can I drive with a damaged shock absorber?

Yes. Even if it won’t be a comfortable journey.

A busted shock absorber will cause your car to bounce around, as well as excessive roll, squat and dive. In other words, it won’t be comfortable. Also, your car will be harder to control, especially at high speeds. Therefore, never drive a car with a defective shock absorber at high speed and avoid sudden cornering and abrupt stops.

Can I drive with a damaged steering linkage?

no Fix it as soon as possible.

A car with a broken steering linkage (such as a tie rod end or axial link) cannot be relied upon to turn when you want it to. It is extremely dangerous with a broken steering linkage.

Can I drive with failed power steering?

Yes. Although it will be slow.

If your power steering fails, it’s still possible to drive. However, it will take a lot of strength, especially when turning. For your driving comfort, it is recommended to have your power steering repaired quickly.

suspension systems

Your suspension system is complex and every part must work properly to ensure a smooth and safe ride for you and your passengers. Any broken or damaged part can adversely affect the handling, steering or braking of your car and make it dangerous to drive.

Learn more with MOOG TV

Packed with useful information, helpful tips and clear instructions, MOOG TV is the ideal place to learn more about your suspension system, including how to replace individual components.

Go to MOOG TV

Type of vehicle suspension

The McPherson strut is a type of vehicle suspension system that uses the top of a telescopic damper as the upper steering pivot. Commonly used in the front suspension of modern vehicles, it is named after American automotive engineer Earle S. MacPherson, who invented and developed the design.

history [edit]

Earle S. MacPherson was appointed chief engineer of Chevrolet’s light car project in 1945 to develop new smaller cars for the immediate post-war market. This resulted in the Chevrolet Cadet. By 1946, three prototypes of the Cadet design were produced. These incorporated the first McPherson strut independent suspension both front and rear. The Cadet project was canceled in 1947 and a disgruntled MacPherson was enticed to join Ford. Patents were filed in 1947 (US Patent 2,624,592 to GM)[2] and 1949 (US Patent 2,660,449 to Ford)[3] with the 1949 patent[4] being designs by Guido Fornaca of FIAT in the mid-1920s Years cited.[5 ][6] The strut mounting of the pre-war Stout Scarab may have been an influence and long travel struts in aircraft landing gear were known at the time. The French Cottin-Desgouttes used a similar design, albeit with less sophisticated leaf springs,[7][8] but the Cottin-Desgouttes front suspension was in turn inspired by a 1904 design by American engineer J. Walter Christie.[ 9][10]

MacPherson designed the strut for all four wheels, but it is typically only used for the front suspension, where it provides both a steering pivot and suspension mount for the wheel.

The first production car with MacPherson struts is often erroneously referred to as the 1949 French Ford Vedette,[11][12] but it was designed before MacPherson, with independent front suspension based on wishbones and an upper coil spring.[13] It was not until 1954, after the Vedette factory was bought by Simca, that the revised Simca Vedette switched to using front struts.[13]

After MacPherson’s arrival at Ford, the 1950 British-built Ford Consul and later Zephyr was the first production car to feature MacPherson struts.

draft [edit]

A McPherson strut uses a wishbone or substantial compression link stabilized by a secondary link that provides a mounting point for the hub carrier or axle of the wheel. The forearm system takes care of both lateral and longitudinal positioning of the bike. The upper part of the hub carrier is rigidly attached to the underside of the outer part of the strut itself. This slides up and down the inner portion of it, which extends upwards directly to a bracket in the vehicle’s body-in-white. The line from the top mount of the shock absorber to the lower ball joint on the wishbone indicates the inclination of the steering axis. The axis of the strut may be angled inward at the bottom from the steering axis to clear the hoop, causing the underside to follow an arc when steering.

The McPherson struts benefited from the introduction of the unitary construction because their design requires significant vertical space and a strong top mount that unibody construction can offer. The unibody construction also distributes suspension stresses.[14] The strut usually supports both the coil spring on which the body is suspended and the shock absorber, which is usually in the form of a cartridge mounted in the strut (see Coilovers). The strut may also have the steering arm built into the lower outer section. The entire assembly is very simple and can be pre-assembled into one unit. Also, the elimination of the upper wishbone allows for more width in the engine compartment, which is useful for smaller cars, particularly those with transversely mounted engines like most front-wheel drive vehicles have. Assembly can be further simplified if required by replacing the swing arm with a stabilizer bar (torsion bar).[14] For these reasons, it has become almost ubiquitous among low-cost manufacturers. In addition, it provides a simple method for adjusting the suspension geometry.[15]

Many modern versions replace the lower wishbone with a wishbone. An anti-roll bar is optional and, if equipped, attaches to the spring damper via a ball joint rod or to the control arm via a ball or elastomeric ball joint rod.

Pros and cons[edit]

Because MacPherson struts pack significant structure into the car’s front crash structure, it is easier to design cars that survive more severe small-overlap crashes with struts, as opposed to those with a double wishbone suspension. Notable examples are the Honda Accord and Civic, as well as the Mercedes E-Class, all of which have inherited quests to improve crash performance. The overall simplicity of the design also means there are fewer joints in the suspension to wear out, so handling and steering feel are less likely to deteriorate over time. Inverted monotube struts can also provide additional stiffness in the front suspension, as found on the Porsche 911 GT3 and Cayman GT4, and the Subaru Impreza WRX STI. Finally, struts can be packaged more efficiently than other types of front suspension, allowing for significant front cargo space in rear/mid-engine vehicles such as the Porsche 911 and Boxster.

Geometric analysis shows that the assembly cannot allow vertical movement of the wheel without some degree of camber change, lateral movement, or both. It’s not generally considered to handle as well as double wishbone or multi-link suspension because it gives engineers less freedom in choosing camber change and roll center. Cars with adjustable ride height in the cockpit generally cannot have McPherson struts as the camber changes are an inevitable part of the design. The ride suffers because the shock has almost the same vertical movement as the wheel, so there’s relatively little leverage to break the stiction in the seals. A standard MacPherson strut with a pivot point also tends to have positive scrub when the center of the steer axle is offset from the center of the front tires, resulting in torque steer.

Despite the disadvantages, the McPherson strut setup is still used on some high performance cars as they tend to have relatively small suspension travel and therefore don’t have the same kinematic problems.

Up until the 1989 model year (964), the Porsche 911 used a similar strut design with no coil springs and instead a torsion bar suspension. Since then, all Porsche 911s have had front McPherson struts, with the exception of the 992-based 911 GT3, which uses a double wishbone.

In recent years, General Motors and Ford have introduced a modified strut setup, “Hi-Per Strut” or “Revoknuckle” respectively, that splits the strut into two components that separately handle up and down flexibility and steering dynamics. The advantages of this design are greater surface contact and a reduction in steering torque. The downsides are the extra weight and cost, but it’s less expensive than either a double wishbone or multi-link setup. Honda introduced another variation of the strut setup, dubbed “Dual-Axis”, used in the Civic Type-R’s suspension design. Another variation of the McPherson strut is the double-pivot front suspension, which splits the lower wishbone into two parts while maintaining the standard MacPherson strut upright design. This allows for better control of steering geometry and rub radius while allowing for a larger brake assembly.

See also[edit]

37 shares

Your ride takes longer than usual to stop? Is it strangely bumpier? Well I think it’s time to change your struts because the symptoms clearly mean they’ve gone bad. Fortunately, you can replace them yourself or get professional help.

So how long does it take to swap out the struts?

It typically takes about an hour or two to change struts, according to most professional mechanics. Even if you decide to replace them yourself, the estimated time will be the same as long as you have some prior mechanical knowledge and follow the process correctly.

Failure to replace struts on time can affect your ability to handle and control the vehicle.

How long does it take to replace struts?

Replacing struts is not a complex process. Most brands make struts that are easy to install, so car owners don’t have to pay extra for professional mechanics.

As a result, you can probably replace your old struts with new ones in your garage. All you need are the right tools and basic knowledge of Struts to follow the installation guide.

If you find it a little complex for you, or if your particular model of strut is a bit difficult to install, I recommend seeking professional help.

In general, a professional mechanic can do the same job in less time. For example, if it takes you 3 hours to replace struts, the mechanic can probably do it in 2 hours.

Changing the shock absorber in 10 easy steps

Stays and shock absorbers hold the suspension together. Driving around with worn out struts is nothing less than a ticking time bomb.

Old struts in poor condition are unsafe for you and the vehicle. You can potentially damage expensive suspension parts such as anti-roll bars, ball joints, control arms and control arm bushings.

It is much better to replace struts in a timely manner than to incur additional costs for other damaged components. This not only saves money, but also your time in the long term.

Usually an experienced mechanic can complete the installation process in about 2 hours. If you think that with enough landing gear knowledge you fall into this category as well, it could take a little longer than around 3 hours, assuming you have the essential parts and tools to go through the process.

Let’s see how you can do this in ten easy steps:

Step 1: Strut Evaluation

The first thing to do is assess your aspirations. It’s very easy, so you can do it on your own.

Start with a visual inspection and if you feel something is wrong, take a road test and actively check for the following symptoms:

Extreme swaying or jumping at the front end

Fluid leakage on the strut side

Difficulty controlling the vehicle, especially on bumpy roads and cornering

Dents or damage to the strut boot

Worn tires with flat craters due to excessive impact

Any of the above signs is a clear indication that something is wrong with the suspension and it is usually old struts that are causing this.

Step 2: Obtaining the spare parts and necessary tools

Worn struts must either be replaced entirely or replacement parts are required if only a specific part is causing the problem.

Therefore, in the case of a full replacement, you should be careful to purchase the quality aftermarket struts, including the strut itself, strut boot, strut mount, spring, spring seat insulator, bump stop, and bearing plate.

Replacing the strut assembly is relatively easier and saves a lot of time and money. On the other hand, if you need to replace a specific part, you can get individual parts. However, this can take more time since you would have to unpack the assembly, replace the part, and repackage the assembly.

Step 3: Measure the camber angle

Measuring the camber angle is the next step in changing the strut. To do this, you must put your vehicle on jack stands before you start dismantling the struts. It is recommended to do this one page at a time.

Be sure to apply rust penetrant to the strut flange bolts and nuts and soak. While they’re soaking, you’ll need to attach an angle gauge to the top of the rotor and note the angle so the hoops will be at the same angle when you put the whole thing together.

Step 4: Remove the end link

Now it’s time to remove the end link of the stabilizer bar. You can do this with the right wrench. Once the final link is out of the strut hole you can also disconnect and remove the wheel speed sensor.

Step 5: Remove the bolts and nuts

By this point, the rust penetrant must have done its job before you can remove the strut bolts and nuts. To make this a little easier, apply some elbow grease. However, it will still need some strength.

Step 6: Disconnect the ankle from the brace

You can separate the knuckle from the strut with a pry bar. Just pull it toward you until it pops out.

Step 7: Remove the mounting nuts

I would recommend that you use a soft rag or plywood before this step as a precaution. When finished, remove three of the four mounting nuts.

Step 8: Remove the old strut

Once three mounting nuts are removed you will need to go under the wheel and remove the fourth nut. Once all are out, slowly lower the strut onto the soft rag or plywood you placed underneath.

Step 9: Install the new brace

To mount the new shock absorber, you must perform all the above steps in reverse order. It’s that simple. When everything is assembled and bolted, check the camber angle to make sure it’s correct.

Step 10: Align Your Wheels

Aligning your wheels after changing the strut is a must.

You or the mechanic you hire can easily complete all ten steps between 2 and 3 hours!

Final Thoughts

Struts or shock absorbers tend to wear out over time as they regularly help to improve your control over the vehicle. On average, you should consider replacing the struts after you’ve driven them about 80,000 miles.

A big factor that affects the longevity of your struts is whether they are hydraulic or gas struts. However, this can more or less depend on your riding style, conditions and maintenance habits.

Therefore, you should actively check the integrity of the struts. The easiest way to do this is to crash your vehicle and analyze the reaction. If the car does not spring back, your vehicle needs a strut replacement.

The car shutting down when braking is also an indication of worn struts. You can also check the struts for leaking fluid. It is also a bad strut symptom that requires replacement.

See also – Transmission oil color meaning and verification

Image of Tumisu from Pixabay

The content of this article is for informational purposes only and should not be used in lieu of professional advice from a certified technician or mechanic. We encourage you to contact a certified technician or mechanic if you have specific questions or concerns about any of the topics discussed here. Under no circumstances shall we be liable for any loss or damage arising from your reliance on any Content.

maintenance

How do I know when shock absorbers and struts need to be replaced?

When you drive over a speed bump, do you feel like your car is a stubborn wild horse? Or is every jaunt a bumpy ride no matter how slick the road is? Then it’s probably time to take a look at your car’s suspension system and consider replacing the shock absorbers and/or struts.

What do shock absorbers and struts do?

Shock absorbers and struts are an essential part of your vehicle’s suspension system. They work with the other components in your suspension system to provide a stable and comfortable ride.

Shocks and struts help your tires maintain traction by minimizing bounce, sway, and other movements that affect safe handling. They keep your car’s weight balanced and stable over bumps and through corners.

What is the difference between dampeners and struts?

Shock absorbers and struts are often referred to interchangeably, but there are some major differences between them. If your vehicle requires struts, you cannot replace shock absorbers (and vice versa).

Shock absorbers are individual suspension components that help coil springs absorb road impact. Without shocks, the vehicle would spin out of control! They help keep the tires in contact with the road instead of springing up after a bump.

A strut combines the shock absorber and coil spring components into a single unit. Struts not only absorb bumps and shock, but also provide structural support. They replace the upper wishbone and upper ball joint required on traditional suspension systems.

Does my vehicle have shock absorbers or struts?

Every wheel has either a strut or a damper. They come in pairs; If you have a bump on the left rear wheel, you also have a bump on the right rear wheel. However, your vehicle may have shock absorbers on one axle and struts on the other axle.

In fact, most modern vehicles have struts on the front axle and shock absorbers on the rear axle. They may have struts on both axles, but it’s rare to have only shock absorbers.

There are 3 easy ways to find out if your vehicle has shock absorbers or struts.

Check your owner’s manual. The owner’s manual should contain information about the suspension setup for your specific model. Look under the car. As long as you know what you’re looking for, you should be able to see if your vehicle has shock absorbers or struts associated with each wheel. Ask a technician. Ask your technician at the next vehicle service! You can identify what component(s) your vehicle has, and – bonus! – They can also tell you if the shock absorbers/struts need to be replaced soon.

4 signs you need to replace shock absorbers and struts

In general, shock absorbers and struts wear out every 50,000 to 100,000 miles. If you are a more aggressive driver and/or drive frequently on rough roads, they will wear out faster.

Shock absorbers and struts don’t go out all at once; they slowly deteriorate over time. Because of this, you may not notice your suspension going bad until things start to get worse! Look out for these 4 main signs that you need to replace the shock absorbers and/or struts.

1. Bumpy, bumpy ride

Do you feel like you might lose control of the vehicle when you hit a bump in the road? Does your vehicle bounce more than once or twice? A rough, bumpy ride is one of the easiest symptoms to notice.

2. Leaking liquid

Leaking fluid on the outside of the shock absorbers/struts is a sign that something is wrong. If the shock absorbers do not have enough hydraulic fluid, they will not be able to absorb shocks while driving.

If you’re unsure whether the fluid on your suspension is coming from the shocks or is an old fluid leak from somewhere else, wipe it off and then check again after driving at least a few miles.

3. Uneven tread wear

Cupping – scalloped, wavy indentations on the tire tread – is a telltale sign of worn shock absorbers and struts. It is caused by the tires not being held firmly to the road while driving. Cupping shortens the life of your tires and reduces handling and braking performance.

4. Instability when braking or turning

Does your car jump when braking? Or sway in curves? This means that your shock absorbers and struts cannot handle the changes in the vehicle’s weight distribution. It can also take longer to stop if your suspension is bad, which is never a good thing.

Read: What Pothole Damage Can Do to Your Car

Replacing your worn shock absorbers and struts will prevent damage to other vehicle components such as tires and suspension and is also vital for driving safety!

Today’s vehicles have a number of safety systems designed to help improve handling, stability and prevent accidents. The anti-lock braking system, stability control system, traction control system, automatic braking and other functions work together to ensure your safety. If your shock absorbers and struts are in poor condition, they may not respond properly to the electronic signals from these systems in an emergency.

Have your shock absorbers and struts replaced

The best way to know when to replace your shocks and struts is to have a qualified technician check your suspension any time you notice the above signs, have an alignment done, or fit new tires. Have your car suspension checked at least once a year.

Shock absorbers and struts should always be replaced in pairs (front axle or rear axle), it is even better to replace the shock absorbers/struts on all four wheels at the same time. This helps maintain reliable handling and consistent response on both sides of the car.

After you have done any work on the suspension, we always recommend having an alignment done as well. Any changes to your suspension can also change the axle alignment of the vehicle. And when it comes to wheel alignment, even small changes can have costly consequences later (accelerated tire wear, more suspension problems, difficult handling).

Read: Wheel Alignment vs Balancing: What’s the Difference?

Whether you just need to have your suspension checked or know it’s time for new shocks and struts, take your vehicle to Virginia Tire & Auto for reliable, trustworthy service at competitive prices! Stop by one of our locations to speak to one of our ASE certified technicians or make an online appointment for service!

What are shock absorbers and struts for cars? How long do dampers and struts last? Car shock absorbers and struts are probably an afterthought for most drivers because they don’t require routine replacements like oil or other components. Shock absorbers and struts are very different parts that perform the same basic function of supporting vehicle weight and providing overall stability. Although they perform the same function, the parts are not interchangeable or combinable with a vehicle. This means that in most cases a vehicle will have either one or the other. There are some vehicles that have struts in the front and shock absorbers in the rear.

Ask a mechanic how long shock absorbers and struts last

How long do shock absorbers and struts last? On average, shock absorbers and struts can last 5-10 years or 50,000-100,000 miles under ideal driving conditions. Many factors can affect the life of these components including: manufacturers, poor roads, heavy loads, towing, heavy braking and aggressive driving. It is best to start regularly inspecting these parts after about 40,000 miles or when the vehicle begins to bounce, sag, increase stopping distances, or have other suspension problems.

It is important that you have your vehicle checked or repaired immediately if you feel that the shock absorbers or struts may be bad. Both shock absorbers and struts can create dangerous conditions such as bouncing or poor braking that can lead to accidents. Unlike shock absorbers, front struts are an integral part of the steering system and failure can dangerously compromise steering. If these parts break down completely, the vehicle is most likely not drivable.

Do you have more questions about the purpose of automotive shock absorbers? To learn more about shock absorber and strut life and to schedule an appointment, contact Expert Car Care Inc.’s ASE-certified technicians today. Our auto business proudly serves the residents of the community of West Allis, WI and surrounding areas.

Riding with worn shock absorbers or struts can result in more than just a bad ride – there are safety considerations to consider. “Most drivers don’t realize that driving with bad shocks or struts can actually increase your braking distance, especially on wet or slippery roads,” says Jill Trotta, Senior Director at RepairPal.

However, it is not always easy to recognize when it is time to replace shock absorbers or struts. “You get used to the way the car drives because the changes are gradual,” says Richard Reina, Product Training Director at CARiD. “You are not aware of the wear and tear that occurs with the suspension over the thousands of miles and years that you own the vehicle.” It’s like that favorite pair of shoes that feel good until one day you realize the soles are worn out.

How shock absorbers and struts work

Shock absorbers and struts help stabilize your vehicle’s movements and improve control when turning, braking, accelerating or on rough road surfaces. Today’s vehicles use shock absorbers, struts or a combination of both.

The fundamental difference is that a damper is a separate component, while the strut combines the damper and other features into a single assembly. Both help stabilize the vehicle and keep the tires in contact with the road. Without shock absorbers, your vehicle would bounce down the road.

How long can you expect your shock absorbers or struts to last? Depends on. “Driving on rough or unpaved roads, towing a trailer, or carrying heavy loads can shorten their lifespan,” says Reina. “If used heavily, you might try replacing them after 40,000 or 50,000 miles or sooner. Under normal conditions, 75,000 to 90,000 miles might be reasonable.”

The warning signs of worn shock absorbers and struts

While many variables go into the lifespan of your shock absorber or strut (hello, potholes), Reina says experiencing any of these seven symptoms means it’s time for a replacement.

Instability at highway speeds. Your vehicle never feels completely stable on the freeway and is constantly moving up and down. The movement may be slight, but you notice it. The vehicle alternately “tilts” to the side. When taking a sharp turn or exit, your vehicle will lean or “tilt” to the outside of the turn and feel wobbly. Under heavy braking, the front dives in more than expected. You may not realize this until you have to slam on the brakes hard. Back squat while accelerating. You will notice that the front end of your vehicle rises while the rear “squats” under hard acceleration. Tires jump excessively. After hitting a bump, you may feel a tire (or tires) react or “bounce” for a period of time. You may also hear a rattling noise. Unusual tire wear. Because the tire is not held firmly to the road, the tread wears in waves rather than evenly. Leaking fluid on the outside of shock absorbers or struts. This is a sign that the seals have broken and are leaking the internal fluids necessary for proper operation.

How to buy replacement shock absorbers and struts

“Make sure you buy high-quality branded shock absorbers or struts,” recommends Trotta. “And remember, you have a choice. Some may be a bit stiffer for better cornering, while others offer better ride comfort. Discuss your preferences with your automotive professional before you decide.”

It is also important to ask about replacing any worn parts associated with the struts. “Don’t be frugal and stupid,” Reina warns. He recommends replacing other worn parts related to the struts, such as bearing retainers, rubber bumpers and shock boots.

Whatever you do, don’t neglect your shock absorbers or struts. Just like that comfy pair of shoes, you won’t fully appreciate the difference they make until you put on new shoes and hit the sidewalk.

Another way to get the most out of your vehicle is to save money on car insurance with GEICO. See what you could save with a quick, free quote.

Read More: You Can Injure Your Car In These Surprising Ways Too.

By Fred Stafford

The McPherson strut is the most common type of front suspension on modern cars, but what exactly is it and why does almost everyone use it?

Share Tweet Email WhatsApp

The top strut and the bottom wishbone are attached to the hub

If you dive into it with no prior knowledge, a MacPherson strut might as well be an American football touchdown celebration as a suspension design that’s been around for decades. But to the best of our knowledge, it’s only the latter, and here’s what it’s all about. The MacPherson strut suspension is a simple independent suspension used by almost all major car manufacturers in the world, usually for front wheels. It is based on a basic triangular design in two parts; a control arm and radius rod that together form a triangle against the car’s chassis. Usually this triangle is at the bottom rather than the top of the suspension.

Suspension, upper, control arm, lower, drive shaft and steering arm

The control arm positions the wheel laterally and the radius rod prevents it from moving fore and aft in the wheel arch. The wishbone was usually the chunkier and stronger of the two and was the one that attached directly to the lower part of the wheel carrier, aka the hub. Nowadays, the two have been slimmed down into a much larger wishbone in conjunction with an anti-roll bar connecting the chassis and suspension unit. Speaking of which, the spring-damper unit is mounted vertically or close to it. It consists of a closed cylinder that screws onto the top of the hub; Inside is the shock absorber or damper. At the top it has a wide collar that encloses the coil spring, while the damper shaft runs all the way through the center of the coil to the top of the spring unit, which is firmly bolted to the vehicle’s structure.

This is what a four-year-old cheap car looks like from below…

In this way, the McPherson strut creates a three-point attachment structure for the wheel that proves to be very strong and versatile, easily adaptable to more demanding applications such as track driving. At least as importantly, it’s also a cheap design. Automakers love “cheap and effective” as much as we do. The design really came into its own when cars were produced with ‘unibody’ chassis, also known as monocoques. Monocoques have a high relative stiffness between the McPherson strut mounting points, giving it the kind of support and control it needs to function properly.

…and this is what a more expensive 12-year-old car looks like from below

maintenance

How do I know when shock absorbers and struts need to be replaced?

When you drive over a speed bump, do you feel like your car is a stubborn wild horse? Or is every jaunt a bumpy ride no matter how slick the road is? Then it’s probably time to take a look at your car’s suspension system and consider replacing the shock absorbers and/or struts.

What do shock absorbers and struts do?

Shock absorbers and struts are an essential part of your vehicle’s suspension system. They work with the other components in your suspension system to provide a stable and comfortable ride.

Shocks and struts help your tires maintain traction by minimizing bounce, sway, and other movements that affect safe handling. They keep your car’s weight balanced and stable over bumps and through corners.

What is the difference between dampeners and struts?

Shock absorbers and struts are often referred to interchangeably, but there are some major differences between them. If your vehicle requires struts, you cannot replace shock absorbers (and vice versa).

Shock absorbers are individual suspension components that help coil springs absorb road impact. Without shocks, the vehicle would spin out of control! They help keep the tires in contact with the road instead of springing up after a bump.

A strut combines the shock absorber and coil spring components into a single unit. Struts not only absorb bumps and shock, but also provide structural support. They replace the upper wishbone and upper ball joint required on traditional suspension systems.

Does my vehicle have shock absorbers or struts?

Every wheel has either a strut or a damper. They come in pairs; If you have a bump on the left rear wheel, you also have a bump on the right rear wheel. However, your vehicle may have shock absorbers on one axle and struts on the other axle.

In fact, most modern vehicles have struts on the front axle and shock absorbers on the rear axle. They may have struts on both axles, but it’s rare to have only shock absorbers.

There are 3 easy ways to find out if your vehicle has shock absorbers or struts.

Check your owner’s manual. The owner’s manual should contain information about the suspension setup for your specific model. Look under the car. As long as you know what you’re looking for, you should be able to see if your vehicle has shock absorbers or struts associated with each wheel. Ask a technician. Ask your technician at the next vehicle service! You can identify what component(s) your vehicle has, and – bonus! – They can also tell you if the shock absorbers/struts need to be replaced soon.

4 signs you need to replace shock absorbers and struts

In general, shock absorbers and struts wear out every 50,000 to 100,000 miles. If you are a more aggressive driver and/or drive frequently on rough roads, they will wear out faster.

Shock absorbers and struts don’t go out all at once; they slowly deteriorate over time. Because of this, you may not notice your suspension going bad until things start to get worse! Look out for these 4 main signs that you need to replace the shock absorbers and/or struts.

1. Bumpy, bumpy ride

Do you feel like you might lose control of the vehicle when you hit a bump in the road? Does your vehicle bounce more than once or twice? A rough, bumpy ride is one of the easiest symptoms to notice.

2. Leaking liquid

Leaking fluid on the outside of the shock absorbers/struts is a sign that something is wrong. If the shock absorbers do not have enough hydraulic fluid, they will not be able to absorb shocks while driving.

If you’re unsure whether the fluid on your suspension is coming from the shocks or is an old fluid leak from somewhere else, wipe it off and then check again after driving at least a few miles.

3. Uneven tread wear

Cupping – scalloped, wavy indentations on the tire tread – is a telltale sign of worn shock absorbers and struts. It is caused by the tires not being held firmly to the road while driving. Cupping shortens the life of your tires and reduces handling and braking performance.

4. Instability when braking or turning

Does your car jump when braking? Or sway in curves? This means that your shock absorbers and struts cannot handle the changes in the vehicle’s weight distribution. It can also take longer to stop if your suspension is bad, which is never a good thing.

Read: What Pothole Damage Can Do to Your Car

Replacing your worn shock absorbers and struts will prevent damage to other vehicle components such as tires and suspension and is also vital for driving safety!

Today’s vehicles have a number of safety systems designed to help improve handling, stability and prevent accidents. The anti-lock braking system, stability control system, traction control system, automatic braking and other functions work together to ensure your safety. If your shock absorbers and struts are in poor condition, they may not respond properly to the electronic signals from these systems in an emergency.

Have your shock absorbers and struts replaced

The best way to know when to replace your shocks and struts is to have a qualified technician check your suspension any time you notice the above signs, have an alignment done, or fit new tires. Have your car suspension checked at least once a year.

Shock absorbers and struts should always be replaced in pairs (front axle or rear axle), it is even better to replace the shock absorbers/struts on all four wheels at the same time. This helps maintain reliable handling and consistent response on both sides of the car.

After you have done any work on the suspension, we always recommend having an alignment done as well. Any changes to your suspension can also change the axle alignment of the vehicle. And when it comes to wheel alignment, even small changes can have costly consequences later (accelerated tire wear, more suspension problems, difficult handling).

Read: Wheel Alignment vs Balancing: What’s the Difference?

Whether you just need to have your suspension checked or know it’s time for new shocks and struts, take your vehicle to Virginia Tire & Auto for reliable, trustworthy service at competitive prices! Stop by one of our locations to speak to one of our ASE certified technicians or make an online appointment for service!

By Ralf Kalal

With rare exceptions, suspensions on modern cars fall into one of three groups: “parallel link”, “MacPherson struts” or “solid axle”. Your car almost certainly uses one of these systems, and possibly two of them, as the suspension system for the steered front wheels is often different than that for the rear wheels.

Parallel arm systems use upper and lower wishbones parallel to each other. One end of each arm is connected to the car and the other end is connected to the post that supports the axle on which the wheel is mounted. The control arms are often referred to as “A-arms” or “wishbones” because of their shape. In practice, the upper control arm is shorter than the lower control arm to maintain the angle of the wheel to the road when the body rolls into a corner. A coil spring is mounted to push against either the upper or lower arm. The shock can be mounted separately from the spring or centrally within the spring, known as a coil-over-shock or “coil-over” configuration.

The MacPherson strut system – so named because it was invented by Earl S. MacPherson – uses only a lower control arm that connects to the underside of the post that holds the wheel, called the “stub axle”. The top of the steering knuckle, which will not be much higher than the level of the spindle, is connected to the bottom of a strut. The strut reaches almost to the height of the bonnet, where it is bolted to the body on the side of the engine compartment. Essentially a tube sliding in a shaft, a McPherson strut combines the functions of an upper wishbone and shock absorber into one unit. The top of the strut sits in a bearing so the entire assembly rotates when the wheels are steered. Typically, the strut is contained within a coil spring that acts against collars located at the top and near the bottom of the strut. But there is also a “modified MacPherson strut” design. In the modified design, the coil spring is separate from the strut assembly.

Both parallel link and McPherson strut systems are “independent suspensions”: the movement of one wheel has no effect on the other wheels. This does not apply to the third system: the rigid axle.

A live axle is exactly what the name suggests: a solid connection of one wheel to the wheel on the opposite side. The term usually refers to rear axles, which consist of a housing containing a center differential (the unit that splits and sends power from the engine to each driven wheel), connected to the wheels via driveshafts. This arrangement is also known as the “living axis”. But a “beam axle,” which is simply a large steel beam connecting opposing wheels but has no drive shafts, has the same characteristics. Solid axle systems generally use a coil spring and a separately mounted shock absorber, although on older cars and many trucks solid axle systems use leaf springs.

Each system has its advantages. Parallel arm systems are preferred for high performance cars because they maintain better wheel geometry during cornering. McPherson struts allow more space in the engine bay, making them ideal for front-wheel drive vehicles, especially those with transverse engines. Rigid axles are far less expensive to manufacture than independent systems.

Original equipment struts and shock absorbers should always be replaced in axle sets (i.e. both front struts) so that the vehicle’s handling and braking characteristics are the same on both sides of the vehicle.

However, struts and shocks are two suspension components that are often upgraded with aftermarket parts to improve handling. Replacing springs and struts with shorter units also decreases ride height. Whenever performance components are replaced with Original Equipment springs, struts or shock absorbers, the corresponding parts should be replaced at both ends of the vehicle to maintain safe driving dynamics.

Parts for these jobs:

Aspiration (if applicable)

shock absorbers (if applicable)

Tools for these jobs:

Jack (if applicable, to support the suspension arm)

Spring compressor (if necessary to compress the spring struts)

1/2″ drive breaker bar, 1/2″ drive socket ratchet and appropriately sized 1/2″ drive sockets

Ring spanner of the right size

Hex or Allen (if applicable)

Penetrating Oil

Time for these jobs:

At least the first time, these are jobs that require an unlimited time commitment. Don’t start until you know you won’t need the car that day. In fact, this is a good Saturday job. That way, when you run into problems, there’s still Sunday.

NOTE: If you replace struts, you will need to have these wheels realigned. The exchange of struts inevitably changes the existing orientation. So you should also plan to take the car to an alignment shop on Monday.

advance planning

First you need to know what kind of suspension system you have. If you have coilovers, i. H. the damper or strut sits in the coil spring, you need a coil spring compressor. You do not need this tool to replace shock absorbers or struts in a non-coilover system.

The most basic and common type of coil spring compressor consists of two long bolts, each with a hook at either end, as shown in the diagram at the beginning of this chapter. One unit is used on each side of the spring. Turning the bolt pulls the hooks toward the center. Putting one on each side of the spring and turning the screws alternately will compress the spring. These retail for about $50, but can be rented for much less and are sometimes available for free rental at parts stores.

If any of the nuts that need to be removed are rusted (and it’s likely some are), jack the car up the night before and thoroughly soak the rusted parts with penetrating oil.

You will need the torque specifications for the various nuts and bolts that you will remove during disassembly so that they can be properly tightened after the new strut or shock absorber is installed.

Finally, make sure you have all the necessary tools. Suspension components use large bolts and nuts. To get the job done, you may need a wrench or a socket larger than any you have in your toolbox. A special tool may also be required to remove the “damper shaft nut” at the top of the strut. If this is the case, the workshop manual will specify the tool required and will likely include an illustration of it.

NOTE: While most McPherson struts are not serviceable and must be replaced as a unit, on some older vehicles the shock absorber function is performed by a cartridge that slides into the top of the strut and can be replaced without replacing the entire strut . In some cases, this cartridge can be replaced without removing the strut from the car.

Danger notice

Compressed springs contain enough force and tension to support the car, so anything that suddenly detaches creates a large projectile that travels at high speed and can cause serious injury. Be very, very careful when using a spring compressor and handling the compressed spring. Do not allow children to be present.

Getting under a car is dangerous. Always use secondary supports and make sure the car is securely on jack stands.

Replace front MacPherson strut

McPherson struts are removed as an assembly with the spring. The spring is then removed from the strut at the workbench.

Once you’ve removed the wheels, examine the various bolts holding the strut in place or holding things to the strut, and apply (or re-apply) penetrating oil to any that are rusty. On a front-wheel drive vehicle, there is a rubber boot for the constant velocity joints in the front axle directly under the strut. Place a rag over the assembly to catch any dripping penetrating oil to keep oil from getting on this rubber boot. Use a wire brush to remove rust from exposed threats. Otherwise, the nut may be stuck when removing because it cannot cut through the accumulated rust.

One word about penetrating oil: patience. Penetrating oil may not work in thirty minutes, or an hour, or two hours, or three. It took over 6 hours for oil to get in and loosen the stabilizer link bolt on the car in the pictures. That’s one of the reasons this is a Saturday job and why it’s worth applying penetrating oil the night before you start work.

If it is necessary to replace a nut or bolt used in the suspension, it is important to ensure that the new part is at least the same strength class as the fastener being replaced. Both standard and metric bolts and nuts are marked with property classes. Standard fasteners use short radial lines on bolt heads and dots on the face of nuts to indicate class. The more lines or points, the higher its strength. Metric fasteners use tiny digits; Again, the higher the number, the stronger the lock.

If a new fastener is needed, you may be able to purchase it as a spare from the dealer’s parts department or from a parts store, which should provide reassurance that the new fastener will meet the strength standard of the old fastener. You can also get the right grade nuts and bolts from Fastenal (online at fastenal.com), which has nearly 2,000 locations across the United States.

There are two or three small nuts and a removable plastic cover on top of the strut tower. The nuts hold the top of the McPherson struts in place. The strut’s “damper shaft nut” is located under the plastic cover.

The damper shaft cover can be easily prized off with a screwdriver.

Now look at the top of the strut tower. You will see two or three small nuts. These hold the top of the strut in the strut tower. Carefully pry the plastic cover off the top of the strut tower. Below you can see the top of the strut and the large “damper shaft nut” that holds the “top spring seat” i. H. the collar holding back the top of the feather. This nut is only removed after the strut and spring assembly has been removed from the car.

Before proceeding, inspect the damper shaft nut to determine if a special tool is required for removal. If a special tool is required, acquire it before you start the job.

Look closely at the damper shaft and its nut. After the strut has been removed from the vehicle and the spring has been compressed so that it is no longer compressing, the normal method of removing the damper shaft nut is to prevent the shaft from rotating. To do this, depending on the version, hold with a wrench or insert a ratchet with the appropriate Allen or Torx bit into a socket at the end of the shaft, and then loosen the screw with a box wrench. If the method of removing the nut is not obvious, consult the factory manual to determine if a special tool is required. Now to the beginning:

The brace extends from the top of the steering knuckle to the top of the strut tower. The spring is held by a lower spring seat that is part of the strut and an upper spring seat that is attached to the top of the strut. A bearing assembly is attached to the top of the strut above the spring seat and just below the top of the strut tower. This allows the entire spring and strut assembly to rotate when the front wheels are steered.

The underside of the strut attaches to the steering knuckle with large bolts. The bottom of the shock absorber is located near wheel center height to minimize changes in wheel geometry during cornering.

Remove any cables or hoses that are held by brackets on the strut, such as B. this anti-lock brake wiring, which is routed through a bracket on the strut to the caliper.

Remove the bracket holding the brake hose to the strut.

Most cars do not require the brake hose to be disconnected from the caliper to remove the strut. However, be careful not to drop the strut onto the tube when removing the bolts holding the strut to the strut tower.

On the strut itself, inside the wheel arch, are brackets or clips that hold the brake hose and ABS wiring (if equipped). These route the hoses and cables past the shock absorber to the brake caliper. There may also be an electrical connection to the strut itself and in the case of rear struts an air hose connection. All of these must be removed from the strut. Remove the brackets, disconnect the hoses and disconnect the electrical and air connections from the strut. These can simply be pressed open, or there may be a clip holding the connector in place.

If for any reason you plan to reinstall the same strut you are removing, before doing anything else, use a sharp tool to make a clearly visible line around the strut bracket, around the nuts that hold the bracket to the steering knuckle, and to draw along the edges of the strut at every other point where the strut touches the knuckle. This will allow you to reinstall the strut exactly as it was previously installed and hopefully avoid the need for wheel alignment.

Disconnect the stabilizer. There is no hex bolt head in this car. To remove the bolt, a torx socket is inserted into the end of the bolt to prevent rotation when the nut is removed with a box wrench.

The nut holding the stabilizer linkage to the strut was badly rusted and would not turn. After repeated applications of penetrating oil over a period of 6 hours, it rotated and was removed. As the saying goes, patience is a virtue.

Disconnect the anti-roll bar (also called anti-roll bar) from the strut if the vehicle is equipped with one that connects to the strut. The connecting bolt may be the typical hex bolt and nut combination. Or it can be more like a carriage bolt: rounded on one end but with a socket in the threaded end of the bolt that accepts a torx or hex bit so you can prevent the bolt from turning when removing the nut .

It is now time to remove the bolts that attach the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle.

Remove the first of the two screws holding the bottom of the brace to the knuckle, starting with the top screw. Hold the bolt head with a socket wrench and pry bar while turning the nut with a box wrench.

Remove the second screw from the bottom of the strut. These are large bolts so make sure you have large enough wrenches before attempting this job.

When the second screw is removed, the strut can shift slightly and place so much weight on the screw that it cannot be easily pulled out. If so, it can be unscrewed from the shock absorber with a ratchet.

Using two wrenches, one on the bolt and the other on the nut, remove the nut from one of the bolts. Then remove the screw. Remove the nut from the other bolt. This second screw must not slip out as the weight of the strut may have shifted and is putting pressure on the screw. If this is the case, after removing the nut, use a wrench to unscrew the bolt from the knuckle and strut.

Now the lower part of the strut can be pushed away from the steering knuckle by levering it open with a large screwdriver.

With the screws removed you should be able to pull the bottom of the brace away from the knuckle. You should also be able to tip the disc brake assembly out from the top. This will allow clearance to remove the strut.

Remove the nuts holding the top of the strut to the strut tower. Either have someone hold the brace while you do this, or secure it with a block of wood so it doesn’t fall out of these holes when the last nut is removed.

The final step is removing the nuts holding the top of the strut in the strut tower. If you can organize a helper at this point, do so. You can do this job on your own, but it’s easier with help. Have the helper remove the nuts while holding the strut. Then have the helper hold the disc brake assembly out of the way while you smoothly and gracefully guide the strut out of the wheel well. If you don’t have a helper, place a block of wood under the strut to keep it from falling when the last nut is removed from the strut tower.

It’s easier to remove a strut if you can swing the base out of the car while the bolts on the top are still going through the strut tower bolt holes. This gives you the largest possible distance between the shock absorber and the components of the brake system.

Removing the strut from the car is easiest if you start with the top strut bolts still in their holes in the strut tower. This maximizes the clearance at the bottom of the strut to move around the caliper and rotor when you remove the strut.

Remove the strut. Insert the lower end through the opening and then allow the strut to come out of the holes in the strut tower while lowering it out of the wheel arch.

You have completed Phase One. Phase two removes the spring from the strut so you can install the new strut.

Before beginning disassembly of the shock absorber, use a felt tip pen to mark (on the isolators and the upper and lower spring seats) the exact location of the upper and lower spring ends. The spring must be positioned in the new strut exactly as it was positioned in the old one.

Before beginning disassembly, use a sharpie to mark the location of the spring ends on the isolators (the pads between the spring and the spring seats), on the upper and lower spring seats, and on the bearing assembly on top of the strut. This way you can easily reassemble them in their original positions.

Attach the spring compressor to the spring. Be sure to use the safety pins or clips that came with the compressor. Hand-tighten the screw, and then use a wrench to tighten it just enough to hold itself to the spring.

Attach the other spring compressor to the other side of the spring.

Then install the spring compressor according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Spring compressors come with pins or clamps designed to keep the compressor from slipping off the springs. Make sure you use them. All springs have an anti-corrosion coating and you should try to damage them as little as possible when compressing them.

Tighten each of the compressor bolts alternately at appropriate intervals so that the spring is evenly compressed.

Compressing the spring is a real exercise. The spring is designed to support more than 1/4 of the vehicle’s weight. Also, it’s probably a progressive rate spring, meaning it gets stiffer as it compresses. Support the strut assembly with a block of wood to keep it stable, or place the lower end of the strut in a vise. Using a ratchet wrench, turn the compressor bolts, alternating between the two bolts at appropriate intervals to compress the spring. During this process, you may need to switch to using a pry bar instead of the socket wrench pawl for extra leverage.

Compress the spring until it disengages from one of the spring seats.

The goal is to compress the spring enough to pull it away from the isolators and spring seats. Once you’ve created a gap between the spring and one of the spring seats, you can stop.

With the spring compressed, the damper shaft nut can be removed. This requires two wrenches, one to keep the shaft from turning and the other to loosen the nut. Most cars use a box wrench to remove the nut, but this car required the dreaded special tool. The special tool was improvised by using a Vice-Grip to hold a correctly sized bushing and running a torx bit through the hole in the bushing to the stem.

Next, remove the damper shaft nut – the large nut at the end of the strut. The shaft must be prevented from rotating when the nut is removed. Usually the shank is fitted with a head to hold a wrench when another wrench is turning the nut, or a socket for a hex or torx socket. Some struts have the nut embedded in the bearing assembly. If this is the case, it may require a special tool – a “strut rod nut bushing,” which is a bushing with a hole in the back and an ear on the side that accepts a socket wrench socket – to remove it.

Remove the bearing assembly, upper spring seat, isolators, dust cover and spring from the old strut.

With the damper shaft nut removed, the shock and strut assembly can be completely disassembled. Remove the bearing assembly, upper spring seat and insulator, dust cover, spring and lower insulator.

Before transferring components to the new strut, make a mark on the spring seat of the new strut that matches the mark you made on the spring seat of the old strut before disassembly. Check the isolators and replace them if they are not in good condition (otherwise you may experience suspension noise), and check the bearing that holds the top of the strut. If it shows signs of wear, it should also be replaced.

To install the new strut, reverse the removal and disassembly process.

Begin by installing the lower isolator onto the new strut, positioned exactly as it was on the old strut. Then slide the spring onto the strut. Install the dust cover, top insulator, spring seat and bearing. Install the damper shaft nut and torque to manufacturer’s torque. To do this, install the torque wrench in place of the wrench that was preventing the damper shaft from rotating, and then tighten the damper shaft nut against the torque wrench.

Carefully decompress the spring. Check regularly that the spring is in the correct position on the isolators and spring seats. Then remove the spring compressor.

It is now just a matter of reinstalling the strut and spring assembly into the car.

Have a helper hold the strut and spring assembly through the holes at the top of the strut tower and finger tighten the nuts holding the top of the strut to the car. Finger tightening these nuts will allow you to rotate the bottom of the strut slightly if necessary to seat the strut onto the control arm or knuckle.

Install the bottom of the strut and the nuts and bolts that hold it in place. Reconnect the stabilizer link. Tighten all of these nuts to the manufacturer’s torque specifications. Reconnect any electrical or air connections and re-insert any hoses or wire harnesses into the strut mounts. Now tighten the nuts holding the top of the shock absorber to the manufacturer’s specifications and reinstall the plastic cover.

The installation of the new shock absorber is now complete. Put the tire back on, lower the car after removing your secondary supports. Tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s torque, repeat the process on the other side, and then take the car to a tuning shop.

Replace rear strut and modified McPherson strut

Although conceptually similar to front McPherson struts, the procedure for replacing rear struts may be different than the procedure for replacing front struts. Similarly, replacing modified McPherson struts always requires a different approach. Because with many rear strut systems and all modified McPherson strut systems, the spring is not part of the strut package, but mounted separately on the wishbone. Consequently, the control arm must be supported with a jack or jack stands strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle before removing the strut to counteract the pressure exerted by the spring.

Replacement of the shock absorber

Replacing the shock is conceptually simple: remove the bolt or bolts holding the bottom of the shock to the suspension arm, remove the nut or nuts holding the top in place, then remove the shock. It’s the execution that can be an issue. Shock absorber mounting bolts live in a hostile environment exposed to dirt and water. So they rust.

The shock absorber of this rear suspension is visible behind the brake disc.

Unlike struts, shock absorbers are separate from the spring. Shock absorbers don’t support the car – springs do. Rather, they dampen the vibrations of the spring by forcing fluid from one chamber of the shock absorber through a valve into another chamber.

Saturate any rusted parts with penetrating oil well in advance of the time you plan to start work.

Remove any hoses or wires connected to the shock absorber, such as B. this air hose. Removing the clip releases the hose.

When the clip is removed, the tubing pulls away. Air hose connections are available on vehicles with automatic level control. Some luxury cars have shock absorbers with electronically controlled valves between the fluid chambers.

Begin by removing all air hoses and electrical wire connectors from the old shock that can be removed without having to manipulate the shock body. In some cases, the body of the shock absorber may need to be moved to loosen connections from a retaining clip on the shock absorber body.

Remove the lower shock absorber mounting bolt.

Because shock absorbers do not support the weight of the car, there is no need to jack up the suspension when removing it. However, raising the suspension slightly with a jack will make it easier to pull the mounting bolt out of the shock absorber and control arm.

You can also use the socket extender as a punch to knock out the screw with a hammer. However, be careful not to damage the threads when replacing the screw.

Remove the bolt or bolts securing the lower shock mount. If the lower bracket uses a single bolt that slides sideways through an eyelet on the end of the shock, you can use a jack to slightly compress the shock if removing the bolt is difficult.

Now compress the shock absorber by pressing on it with your hands to shorten it. This makes it easier to remove from the car after the top bracket has been disconnected. Compressing the shock is easier when the top is bolted on.

The final step is loosening the upper shock mount. Stoßdämpfer werden auf verschiedene Weise oben montiert: Die Welle des Stoßdämpfers kann mit einem Gewinde versehen und durch einen Gummiisolator und eine auf die Welle geschraubte Mutter an Ort und Stelle gehalten werden. Die Oberseite des Stoßdämpfers kann eine Halterung sein, die mit einer Montageplatte verschraubt ist. An der Oberseite des Stoßdämpfers kann ein großes Auge vorhanden sein, das eine große, seitlich positionierte Schraube und Mutter aufnimmt.

Wenn der Stoßdämpfer eine Gewindewelle hat, dreht der Versuch, die Mutter zu lösen, lediglich die Welle, es sei denn, die Welle wird in Position gehalten. Das Ende des Schafts ist normalerweise abgewinkelt, sodass es mit einem Schraubenschlüssel oder einem Schraubstock gegriffen werden kann. Eine andere Möglichkeit, dies zu tun, ist Lisles Nummer 20400 „Stoßdämpferwerkzeug“. Es besteht aus einer Nuss, die über die Stoßdämpfermutter passt und mit einem Standard-Maul- oder Ringschlüssel gedreht werden kann, und einer zweiten Nuss, die für eine Standard-Steckratsche ausgelegt ist und durch die erste Nuss eingesetzt und darüber passt das quadratische Ende des Stoßdämpferschafts. Dieses Tool wird für weniger als 15 US-Dollar angeboten.

Ein Nusssplitter schneidet durch die Seite einer gefrorenen Nuss. Erwarten Sie jedoch, dass auch die Schraube ersetzt wird. Selbst wenn es nicht verrostet ist, wird der Splitter wahrscheinlich die Schraubengewinde beschädigen, wenn er die Mutter durchschneidet.

Wenn eine Stoßdämpfermutter so stark verrostet ist, dass sie nicht mit einem Schraubenschlüssel entfernt werden kann, selbst nach reichlichem Einsatz von Kriechöl, kann sie normalerweise mit einem Mutternsprenger entfernt werden, einem Werkzeug, das weniger als 15 $ kostet. Ein Mutternsprenger ist eine Schraube in einem Rahmen, der beim Drehen des Bolzens eine keilförmige Klinge aus hartem Stahl in die Seite einer gefrorenen Nuss zieht und sie bricht.

Installieren Sie zuerst einen neuen Stoßdämpfer an der oberen Halterung und verlängern Sie ihn dann, indem Sie ihn nach unten ziehen, um die untere Halterung zu installieren. Mit Ausnahme von Stoßdämpfern, die mit einer großen Schraube seitlich durch eine Öse am Ende des Stoßdämpfers montiert werden, enthalten neue Stoßdämpfer neue Befestigungsteile. Befestigungsschrauben sollten natürlich mit dem im Werkshandbuch angegebenen Drehmoment angezogen werden, es sei denn, der Stoßdämpferhersteller gibt einen anderen Wert vor.

Aufhängungs-Upgrades und -Modifikationen

Der Austausch von Stoßdämpfern, Federbeinen und Federn der Originalausrüstung ist eine der beliebtesten und effektivsten Methoden, um das Fahrverhalten eines Autos zu verbessern. Durch die mögliche daraus resultierende Tieferlegung des Autos ist es auch eine der beliebtesten Optikveredelungen.

Gasdruckstoßdämpfer und Federbeine gehören zu den grundlegendsten Upgrades für die Aufhängung, obwohl sie bei einigen Fahrzeugen zur Erstausrüstung gehören. Diese verwenden unter Druck stehendes Stickstoffgas anstelle von Luft im Inneren des Stoßdämpfers. Dies reduziert die Belüftung und Schaumbildung der Hydraulikflüssigkeit des Stoßdämpfers, was die Reaktion auf Kurven- und Straßenbedingungen beschleunigt. Gasstoßdämpfer und Federbeine sind in der Regel steifer als Stoßdämpfer der Originalausrüstung und verringern die Körperneigung bei Kurvenfahrten.

Der Austausch von Federn ist jedoch die grundlegendste Modifikation der Aufhängung. Durch den Austausch von Federn kann das Auto tiefergelegt, das Fahr- und Kurvenverhalten verändert und das Fahrverhalten an die Wünsche des Fahrers angepasst werden. Aber diese Modifikationen können, wenn sie nicht richtig durchgeführt werden, ein Auto praktisch unfahrbar machen. Wird ein Auto beispielsweise zu stark tiefergelegt, kann der verfügbare Federweg so weit reduziert werden, dass das Fahrverhalten stark beeinträchtigt wird.

Eine Reihe von Aftermarket-Lieferanten ist auf Performance-Fahrwerkskomponenten spezialisiert und bietet Komplettpakete in verschiedenen Leistungsstufen an, die auf eine bestimmte Marke und ein bestimmtes Automodell zugeschnitten sind. Diese Pakete enthalten alle Teile, die für die Durchführung der Modifikationen erforderlich sind, und wurden von Personen entwickelt und getestet, die wissen, was sie tun.

Eine schnelle und einfache Möglichkeit, seriöse Leistungslieferanten für den Aftermarket zu finden, ist die Website der Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA), des Handelsverbands des Automobil-Aftermarkets (online unter www.sema.org).

37 shares

Your ride takes longer than usual to stop? Is it strangely bumpier? Well I think it’s time to change your struts because the symptoms clearly mean they’ve gone bad. Fortunately, you can replace them yourself or get professional help.

So how long does it take to swap out the struts?

It typically takes about an hour or two to change struts, according to most professional mechanics. Even if you decide to replace them yourself, the estimated time will be the same as long as you have some prior mechanical knowledge and follow the process correctly.

Failure to replace struts on time can affect your ability to handle and control the vehicle.

How long does it take to replace struts?

Replacing struts is not a complex process. Most brands make struts that are easy to install, so car owners don’t have to pay extra for professional mechanics.

As a result, you can probably replace your old struts with new ones in your garage. All you need are the right tools and basic knowledge of Struts to follow the installation guide.

If you find it a little complex for you, or if your particular model of strut is a bit difficult to install, I recommend seeking professional help.

In general, a professional mechanic can do the same job in less time. For example, if it takes you 3 hours to replace struts, the mechanic can probably do it in 2 hours.

Changing the shock absorber in 10 easy steps

Stays and shock absorbers hold the suspension together. Driving around with worn out struts is nothing less than a ticking time bomb.

Old struts in poor condition are unsafe for you and the vehicle. You can potentially damage expensive suspension parts such as anti-roll bars, ball joints, control arms and control arm bushings.

It is much better to replace struts in a timely manner than to incur additional costs for other damaged components. This not only saves money, but also your time in the long term.

Usually an experienced mechanic can complete the installation process in about 2 hours. If you think that with enough landing gear knowledge you fall into this category as well, it could take a little longer than around 3 hours, assuming you have the essential parts and tools to go through the process.

Let’s see how you can do this in ten easy steps:

Step 1: Strut Evaluation

The first thing to do is assess your aspirations. It’s very easy, so you can do it on your own.

Start with a visual inspection and if you feel something is wrong, take a road test and actively check for the following symptoms:

Extreme swaying or jumping at the front end

Fluid leakage on the strut side

Difficulty controlling the vehicle, especially on bumpy roads and cornering

Dents or damage to the strut boot

Worn tires with flat craters due to excessive impact

Any of the above signs is a clear indication that something is wrong with the suspension and it is usually old struts that are causing this.

Step 2: Obtaining the spare parts and necessary tools

Worn struts must either be replaced entirely or replacement parts are required if only a specific part is causing the problem.

Therefore, in the case of a full replacement, you should be careful to purchase the quality aftermarket struts, including the strut itself, strut boot, strut mount, spring, spring seat insulator, bump stop, and bearing plate.

Replacing the strut assembly is relatively easier and saves a lot of time and money. On the other hand, if you need to replace a specific part, you can get individual parts. However, this can take more time since you would have to unpack the assembly, replace the part, and repackage the assembly.

Step 3: Measure the camber angle

Measuring the camber angle is the next step in changing the strut. To do this, you must put your vehicle on jack stands before you start dismantling the struts. It is recommended to do this one page at a time.

Be sure to apply rust penetrant to the strut flange bolts and nuts and soak. While they’re soaking, you’ll need to attach an angle gauge to the top of the rotor and note the angle so the hoops will be at the same angle when you put the whole thing together.

Step 4: Remove the end link

Now it’s time to remove the end link of the stabilizer bar. You can do this with the right wrench. Once the final link is out of the strut hole you can also disconnect and remove the wheel speed sensor.

Step 5: Remove the bolts and nuts

By this point, the rust penetrant must have done its job before you can remove the strut bolts and nuts. To make this a little easier, apply some elbow grease. However, it will still need some strength.

Step 6: Disconnect the ankle from the brace

You can separate the knuckle from the strut with a pry bar. Just pull it toward you until it pops out.

Step 7: Remove the mounting nuts

I would recommend that you use a soft rag or plywood before this step as a precaution. When finished, remove three of the four mounting nuts.

Step 8: Remove the old strut

Once three mounting nuts are removed you will need to go under the wheel and remove the fourth nut. Once all are out, slowly lower the strut onto the soft rag or plywood you placed underneath.

Step 9: Install the new brace

To mount the new shock absorber, you must perform all the above steps in reverse order. It’s that simple. When everything is assembled and bolted, check the camber angle to make sure it’s correct.

Step 10: Align Your Wheels

Aligning your wheels after changing the strut is a must.

You or the mechanic you hire can easily complete all ten steps between 2 and 3 hours!

Final Thoughts

Struts or shock absorbers tend to wear out over time as they regularly help to improve your control over the vehicle. On average, you should consider replacing the struts after you’ve driven them about 80,000 miles.

A big factor that affects the longevity of your struts is whether they are hydraulic or gas struts. However, this can more or less depend on your riding style, conditions and maintenance habits.

Therefore, you should actively check the integrity of the struts. The easiest way to do this is to crash your vehicle and analyze the reaction. If the car does not spring back, your vehicle needs a strut replacement.

The car shutting down when braking is also an indication of worn struts. You can also check the struts for leaking fluid. It is also a bad strut symptom that requires replacement.

See also – Transmission oil color meaning and verification

Image of Tumisu from Pixabay