Front Wheel Play At 3 And 9? Best 17 Answer

Imagine you’re driving on the freeway when suddenly the left front tire and wheel rupture, sending your runaway vehicle skidding across multiple lanes of 65 mph traffic. This is reality, and it can happen if you don’t notice the signs that wheel bearings are deteriorating and need immediate repair. This is no exaggeration.

What are wheel bearings?

Wheel bearings are important components of a vehicle’s braking, steering and suspension systems. Located between the drive axle and brake disc or drum, the one-piece hub assembly includes the hub, wheel bearings, ABS wheel-speed sensor, and mounting flange.

It is the component that allows a wheel to turn.

Bearings are tightly packed in a grease-filled, watertight, sealed metal ring. This housing, called the barrel, is inside the hub, and every wheel has one. Wheel bearings have a Herculean task: They are designed to carry the entire vehicle weight.

How long does a wheel bearing last?

Wheel bearings are theoretically designed for the life of the vehicle. There is no maintenance schedule for replacing wheel bearings and there is no constant source of lubrication. However, they can be damaged. You are particularly vulnerable when hitting a pothole, high curb or speed bump at high speed.

When water, mud, road salt or sand gets past the seal and touches the bearings, the grease becomes fouled, causing the bearings to wear and eventually fail prematurely. Even ignoring worn wheel bearings can damage the vehicle’s constant velocity (CV) joint or automatic transmission. The outer CV joint connects the driveshaft to the wheels and the inner CV joint connects to the transmission. Get advice from a reputable service technician.

Beware of custom wheels and tires

Another thing, if you plan on customizing your vehicle, be careful what you do. The original bearings on your vehicle are designed for specific loads. These taller and wider tires look cool, as do tires with lower profile walls, but they put more stress on the wheel bearings, potentially leading to accelerated wear. When replacing, follow a car manufacturer’s specifications.

How much does it cost to replace a wheel bearing?

Finally, the cost of replacing a front hub assembly varies widely. Variables include vehicle make and model, workshop wages, and cost of parts. The average outdoor price without tax is about $350; However, luxury brands are more expensive to repair. If the bearings on one wheel fail, there is no need to replace the bearings on the other wheel on the same axle. Don’t let anyone talk you into unnecessary work. Get the wheel bearing replacement quote for your car make and model.

The main warning signs Your wheel bearings need to be replaced

1. Buzz

The most recognizable and most common symptom of bad wheel bearings is audible. But it can be confusing. For example, the source of a hum can be linked to other problems such as tires and the constant velocity joint.

2. Squeaks, growls

The typical noises of worn wheel bearings are squeaking and/or growling. The noise increases as the vehicle speed increases. Try to locate the location of the noise as this will identify the location of the worn wheel bearings.

3. Click Sound

If you hear a clicking noise that increases in frequency as the vehicle accelerates, there could be a problem with the wheel hub assembly.

4. Wheel wobble

Technicians can check for wheel wobble by placing the vehicle on a lift and manually checking wheel movement. Normally it would be impossible to shake the wheel and tire. However, if it moves, the hub assembly needs immediate attention. The tyre/wheel can literally come off the vehicle at any time and at any speed if the problem is not corrected.

5. ABS error

The anti-lock brake warning light may illuminate. If the ring, tire and wheel wobble, the wheel’s speed sensor is no longer working properly and the ABS may work intermittently or not at all. Contact a professional for repairs.

6. Uneven tire wear

If one tire wears out faster than the others, it could be a sign that the wheel bearings are worn. However, it could also be a sign that the tire is under-inflated (over-inflated or under-inflated), tires are misaligned, or the vehicle has damaged or worn suspension components.

7. Vehicle pulls to one side

Worn bearings can cause a vehicle to pull left or right when braking. The direction the vehicle pulls indicates where the worn bearings are, left or right side of the vehicle. However, this can also be a signal of brake disc or caliper problems.

8. Steering wheel vibration

Bad wheel bearings can cause the steering wheel to vibrate. The intensity increases as vehicle speed increases and the vehicle turns left or right. However, the vibration could be related to an out-of-round tire (there could be a flat tire) or out of balance. Another cause is damaged or worn chassis components.

9. Steering feels loose

If the steering has excessive play, meaning the steering seems less responsive and less precise than normal, worn bearings could be causing the problem. This could also be a sign that the vehicle needs wheel alignment. If you have any of the signs listed above, see a dealer service or auto repair shop.

When you’re ready, use the Kelley Blue Book to find a workshop to repair your wheel bearings.

Related articles:

Wheel bearings are essential components that allow the drive wheels to rotate freely with little to no friction. A wheel bearing is a set of steel or cone balls covered with a metal shell called a race. It is housed in the wheel hub. If the wheel bearings are loose, the vehicle will make a humming or rumbling noise.

In addition, the affected wheels also start to wobble. So tightening the wheel bearing is essential and a DIY job that you can do at home with common hand tools to fix the wobble and weird noise. This article explains how to tighten wheel bearings to make your task easier.

Tightening or adjusting a wheel bearing preload can seem like a daunting maintenance task. If you don’t do it right, it can damage the entire wheel bearing or the wheel can tear off. But if you understand the inner workings of the axle components, you can confidently adjust the wheel bearing.

How to tighten wheel bearings step by step

Tightening a wheel bearing on a trailer or tightening a tapered wheel bearing is a job you have to do yourself. Here’s a simplified guide to walk you through the customization procedures.

Prepare

First, gather the necessary tools for the job.

Materials needed

screwdriver

Tongs

floor jack

gloves

ratchets

wheel chocks

socks set

torque wrench

Lose the wheel nuts

Park the vehicle on firm and level ground. Block the wheels against movement. For example, block the rear wheels when working on the front wheels.

Take your ratchet and a large wrench for the lug nuts. Loosen the lug nuts but do not remove them yet.

Raise the car and remove the wheel nuts

Raise the car with your jack and support it with jack stands. This will support the vehicle and prevent it from slipping off the jack. Make sure you place the jacks in the right place on your car. You can visit your owner’s brochure for proper location of your jack and stands.

Now remove the tire you wish to remove the wheel bearing from and set it aside. You can either tighten the wheel bearing individually or work on two front wheels and two rear wheels at the same time.

Remove the brake pads

You can remove the caliper and hanger. But for this guide, you’ll only remove the brake pad. This allows the tire to roll freely as you rotate it.

Reinstall the tire and tighten the three nuts. Hold the tire by the top and bottom sidewall and wiggle it. The tire wobbles when the wheel bearing is loose and needs adjustment.

What’s next? Remove the tire and continue to the next step.

Remove the dust cover

Take a screwdriver and a light hammer to remove the dust cover. Insert the screwdriver into the bearing housing from the edge of the dust cover. Hit it with the hammer and knock it off.

Remove excess fat if there is any. Then straighten the cotter pin and pull it off with pliers. If it stubbornly comes off, tap it with your wrench while wiggling the other edge with pliers.

Remove the pin retainer once the cotter pin is out of the way. The bracket looks like unthreaded nuts with grooves around them.

Adjust wheel bearings

Replace the tire and tighten three lug nuts. Next, take a large socket wrench and ratchet to tighten the adjusting nut. Spin the tire while tightening the adjusting nut to decrease clearance, or loosen to do the opposite.

Tighten the nut until there is no play in the bearing. If you feel the nut pushed the bearing back and it’s ok, wiggle the tire again to reconfirm the condition.

Take your time and make sure everything is in order. A common symptom of an overtight wheel bearing is stiff tires. If the tire is difficult to spin freely, the bearing is overtightened. Loosen it a bit and make sure there isn’t excessive play.

Remove the tire and reinstall the removed components

Once the wheel bearing adjustment is fairly good, remove the tire. Next, reattach the pin holder, making sure it is seated properly so you can clear the cotter pin. In some cases, you may need to loosen or tighten the adjustment before the mount is properly seated.

Then reinsert the cotter pin. You can reuse the old one or get a new cotter pin. After passing the pen, bend the two tips to prevent the pen from falling.

Reinstall the cotter pin and tap it with a small hammer. Make sure it’s seated properly. Finally, attach the brake pads and check your work.

Attach the tire and lower the wheels

Attach the tire and tighten the wheel nuts. Raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands and lower the jack. Once the wheel is on the ground, re-tighten the wheel nuts according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Watch this video for a visual presentation.

Frequently asked Questions:

Q: Can you tighten a loose wheel bearing?

Yes. You can tighten a loose wheel bearing by tightening the adjusting nut if the bearing is loose or by loosening it if the bearing is too tight. Before doing this, jack up the vehicle and wiggle it by moving it up and down to confirm that the wheel bearing needs adjusting.

Q: How do you tighten a wheel bearing without a torque wrench?

Every car owner should know how to tighten a wheel bearing as it is a general vehicle maintenance tip. But what happens when there is no torque wrench nearby? If you have other tools around and don’t have a torque wrench to tighten or loosen, try snuggling the nut with your bare hands.

Tightening the wheel bearings does not require much force. However, if you can’t tighten it by hand, place your flat head screwdriver on the edge of the adjusting nut and tap it with a hammer or other large wrench.

Make sure you don’t over tighten it as it can be difficult to loosen. Keep turning the wheel while tightening to avoid over tightening.

Q: What can a loose wheel bearing do?

A loose wheel bearing can cause several problems in a vehicle, starting with an unresponsive wheel. First, a loose wheel bearing causes a snarling or rumbling noise and makes the wheels wobble while driving. This situation leads to accelerated and uneven tire wear on the outside.

If you continue to ride with a loose wheel bearing for a long time, it can break and tear off the wheel. Of course you know what that means. A collision can occur, endangering your life, that of the occupants and that of other road users.

Q: How much does it cost to retorque a wheel bearing?

The cost of re-tightening a wheel bearing varies from vehicle to vehicle. Factors such as car make and model, location, and service centers all play a large role in maintenance fees.

However, the average wheel bearing adjustment cost is $50-$75. While some service centers charge $100 or even more, others can tighten the bearing for as little as $30.

Q: How long will a wheel bearing last if it makes noise?

A noisy failure of a wheel bearing is almost impossible. Therefore, you can travel a long distance with a defective wheel bearing. Regardless of the speed at which you travel, however, do not exceed 1,000 miles.

Driving more than 1,000 miles with a noisy wheel bearing is dangerous as it affects the safety of your vehicle. Therefore, I recommend not driving faster than 45 km/h.

last words

You can retorque your wheel bearing without professional help. If you’re looking for wheel bearings, unfortunately this guide isn’t for you.

There can be different ways to adjust wheel bearings. So this wheel bearing tightening guide is my way of doing it. But it’s very simple.

I would recommend that you stick to it and watch the video above for visual clarification.

The nut on the spindle should be tightened until snug, with no lateral play in the hub, and then back off about a quarter turn. The nut finger should be tight until the castle nut or cotter pin is used.

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Hub Bearing Arrangement The same basic bearing arrangement is used for front and rear wheel hubs, except for those of driven axles; However, the internal details of the powered hubs are different.

Wheel bearings need to be checked—and adjusted if necessary—on a regular basis, typically at 12,000-mile service intervals. At longer intervals – usually after 36,000 miles – they must be re-greased (see Removing wheel bearings). Bearings on the front wheels of rear-wheel drive cars and the rear wheels of front-wheel drive cars are largely similar in design. However, on driven front wheels and driven rear wheels on vehicles with independent suspension, the hub nuts are generally tightened to a high torque and routine maintenance adjustment is often not required. Where adaptation to these driven wheels is possible, the procedure varies. The rear wheel bearings of rigid axles are not adjustable.

Adjusting Non-Driven Bearings

The bearing is adjusted by tightening the hub nut if it is too loose or loosening the nut if it is too tight. This should be done with the wheel mounted and raised on a jack stand.

Checking for Bearing Wear Rock the wheel back and forth and up and down to check for bearing wear.

You may need to remove the wheel to remove the fairing: reinstall the wheel before beginning the adjustment. If you need to remove the wheel, loosen the wheel nuts before lifting. Once this wheel is raised, support it on a jack stand. Brake one of the other wheels on each side of the car. If you are adjusting a bike where the handbrake works, release the handbrake. Using two medium-sized screwdrivers, pry off the dust cap by prying its raised flange away from the hub on both sides at the same time. It may take time for a neglected cap to be released. If it sticks you might be able to knock it off without damaging it beyond repair – but covers are cheap to replace. The hub nut can be a castellated nut retained by a cotter pin or a plain nut under a castellated retainer retained by a cotter pin. It may be a simple nut that has been secured by “hammering” by stamping its outside edge to allow the metal to spread into a groove in the threaded axle end. Some VWs have the fourth type: a threaded collar tightly compressed by a nut and bolt on one side. The collar does not fit an ordinary socket wrench, but can be turned with a self-locking key.

Types of Hub Nuts The hub nut can be splined and held in place by a cotter pin. This is a simple hub nut under a crown retainer. This nut has a soft outer edge that is hammered into the groove in the steering knuckle to form a wedge. Some old VWs use an internally threaded split collar that is tightened with a bolt.

Make sure you have a socket big enough to fit the hub nut. If a cotter pin is used, you will need some spare pins of the correct size. A shot peened nut must be replaced each time the bearing is adjusted. There should be some grease on the axle end and nut. If very dirty, the bearing should be disassembled and repacked with clean grease (see Wheel Bearing Removal ). If there are traces of metal in the bearing, it will disintegrate and should be replaced immediately (see Wheel Bearing Removal ). When the grease looks clean, wipe it away with a rag. Straighten the cotter pin and pull it out with pliers. Discard the pen and insert a new one later. Remove all crown mounts. For a shot peened nut, use a small cold chisel and hammer to pry the ball off the axle groove. You don’t have to pry it all the way out: leverage from a socket wrench is enough to flatten any remaining lumps. For a VW collar, loosen the cross screw. Some cars have left-hand threads on the near hub nuts, especially at the rear. Check the thread before proceeding. Loosen the hub nut a few turns or remove it if the nut is shot peened and loosely thread on a new one. If you removed the wheel, temporarily replace it by tightening the lug nuts just enough to hold it in place. Set your torque wrench to the correct value for the hub nut. Settings vary widely from car to rudder (from 11 to 60 lb ft – 1.5 to 8.3 kg m) and must be correct. Consult a service manual or local dealer if necessary. VW hub boots do not need to be set to an exact torque. Slowly rotate the wheel in its normal forward direction of travel with one hand and with the other hand tighten the hub nut to the correct torque.

Tightening the hub nut Rotate the wheel slowly while tightening the hub nut. Lower to finally tighten it.

You should be able to feel the wheel turning slightly, although as you tighten the nut it will start to drag. If scratching or roughness is indeed present, the hub bearing should be replaced. On some cars leave the nut at the recommended torque setting. For most, however, loosen it a half or quarter turn; However, for some, you then re-tighten them to the recommended torque setting. Check the specific adjustment method in a service manual or at your local dealer. Then repeat the rocking wheel test. You should be able to feel the slightest hint of play. The wheel should still turn easily. On some vehicles (including VW with a hub collar), use a screwdriver to feel next to the hub nut on the thrust washer behind it. If the washer just moves, the setting is correct. Lock the nut in position. A castle nut must be moved to align one of its slots with the pin hole in the axle end. Move it as short as possible, no matter which way. If the movement tightens the nut, check that the wheel still spins freely. If not, loosen the nut one notch. This problem does not occur with other types of hub nuts. If used, attach a crown holder. Install a new cotter pin, if used, and trim and bend back its ends.

Classic VW hub nut Install the lock washer with its tab on a flat side of the inner nut. Some VWs have a double nut arrangement with a lock washer between the inner and outer nuts. To remove, pry up the tab with a screwdriver. When reinstalling, use a new lock washer. Tighten the inner nut to have the correct amount of play – just enough to let the wheel spin freely – then bend the tab down. Tighten the other nut against it and bend the other tab up to lock them both securely.

Give a shot peened nut a few light taps with a hammer and punch to spread it into the slot. For a VW collar, tighten the cross screw. On some cars, fill the dust cap half full with fresh bearing grease before reinstalling. If necessary, remove the wheel and replace the cap. Hold the cap and tap it with a soft mallet. Be sure to keep it straight. Reattach the wheel and lower the car to the ground.

Wheel bearings are an essential part of a vehicle’s braking, steering and suspension systems. They are a set of steel balls or tapered bearings that sit in the one-piece hub assembly that sits between the drive axle and the brake disc or drum. Bearings ensure that the wheels rotate smoothly and with as little friction as possible.

The bearings themselves are tightly packed, coated in grease and sealed in a watertight ring. This housing, called the barrel, is inside the hub and every wheel has one.

For a more detailed explanation of these symptoms, see our car guide article How do I know if I need new wheel bearings?

Early senior member

Joined Date: May 2010 Location: Wilmington, Delaware Contributions: 240

Front axle nut – how tight? I’ve taken the front brake drums off and on dozens of times over 25 years and have just been told I did it wrong! (by my very trusted mechanic – who shall remain nameless – to protect the innocent). Now I’m the proud recipient of “authoritative” but conflicting advice on how to tighten the spindle nut before installing the cotter pin:

Technique #1: (according to various owners and “A” restoration books etc.) – While turning the brake drum, tighten the spindle nut “finger tight” against the bearing retainer washer to ensure the bearings are snug and most of the grease is drained pressed out of the contact surfaces between rollers and raceways. Then pull the nut back to the nearest slot in the nut. Install the cotter pin. After the wheel is installed, pull it in and out at the top of the wheel. No looseness or a VERY SLIGHT amount of looseness is fine. This ensures that some grease can circulate through the bearing races during operation, keeping the bearing cool and not overstressed. “Any tighter on the nut will result in accelerated bearing failure.”

Technique #2: (recently reviewed by a “very trusted and experienced ‘A’ mechanic”) – Same procedure as #1 EXCEPT after the nut is “finger tight” turn the nut to the next slot in with a TIGHTER the nut wrench if necessary then install the cotter pin. “The bearings have to be preloaded. ANY looseness will result in accelerated bearing failure.” There is of course NO looseness in the wheel after it is installed.

HELP! What Do Experienced Barners Do? I’ve always used technique #1 and have never had a bearing problem. I don’t like the idea of ​​having the bearings clamped tight and beyond. Intuition, mechanical flair and engineering experience tell me that this forces all the lubricant out of the roller race running surfaces, causes a bearing to overheat and increases fatigue loading and race failure from brinelling.

Since there may be more proven Model A “art” than science here, I’d love to hear how you go about this “simple” task!

Getting this “simple” task wrong can result in bearing damage that can mean loss of road control. This critical task should probably receive more attention and discussion than it normally does.

Earle

The great enemy of any steering system is loose steering play, commonly referred to as “free play”. If the steering wheel has too much play, you may find that you can no longer control the vehicle. The steering can feel loose and require constant correction to keep the vehicle in a straight line.

There can also be a knocking noise when hitting bumps due to looseness in a steering component. At high speeds, the steering wheel sometimes wobbles. Also, your vehicle may wander from side to side while driving. Any one or combination of these symptoms is just a reason to investigate the problem immediately. Ignoring the warning labels can lead to excessive tire wear, steering difficulties and, in the event of gross negligence, part detachment, which can result in an accident.

Causes of loose steering

How to check the steering play during a TÜV test

Premier MOT trainer Tony Warwick demonstrates how to check steering play during an MOT test.

2.2 Steering System

information

This test applies to all types of steering mechanisms.

If power steering is installed, the engine must be running for all controls that require steering movement.

When ATL or OPTL are approved, references to the assistant’s role in this section do not apply, although an NT may employ an assistant to assist in inspecting components if the NT deems it necessary.

For tricycles and quadricycles with motorcycle-derived steering/suspension systems see Section 9.2.

method of inspection

A. Free play

1. With the caster wheels on the ground pointing straight ahead, slightly turn the steering wheel left and right as far as possible without moving the caster wheel.

Check the play around the circumference of the steering wheel.

Note: Play due to wear or misalignment should not be confused with apparent play due to mechanism design such as that caused by deflection of flexible joints or spring compression in external power steering systems.

Note: The steering wheel play limit is a general rule for standard diameter (380mm) steering wheels. Lower or higher limit values ​​should be set for steering wheels with a larger or smaller diameter.

reason for rejection

1. A point on the steering wheel rim moves without the wheels moving longer than: a. 75 mm for non rack and pinion b. 13mm for rack and pinion steering.

Note: With multiple joints between steering wheel and steering rack, movement of up to 48mm on a 380mm diameter wheel can be accepted.

You already know that your car cannot function safely or properly without good, stable wheels. What you may not know is that the wheel is anything but a simple component. In fact, the design of an impeller is very complex and several components have to be integrated.

A good example of this is the wheel bearing. Wheel bearings are crucial for how your wheels work together – especially for the harmonious interaction of hub, tire and assemblies. They’re also prone to abuse, which is why it’s important to know the warning signs. But before we delve deeper into bad bearings, symptoms, implications and costs, it’s equally important to understand what it is.

What is a wheel bearing?

A wheel bearing is a set of steel balls held together in a metal ring called a race. In the center of your wheels is a hollow piece of metal called a hub. The wheel bearings fit snugly into this hub and ride on a metal axle shaft, reducing friction as the wheel spins.

These differ from engine mounts because there is no constant source of lubrication for wheel bearings, meaning they must be tight enough to keep water and road dust out. They also carry the entire weight of the vehicle while driving, which is why they are heavily stressed by bumpy roads, potholes and lateral forces when turning.

Wheel Bearing Diagnosis – Click here to find the Meineke shop in your city

As with most automotive components, the wheel bearing can eventually wear out and may even need to be replaced. How do you know when it’s time for a wheel bearing change, or at least have your vehicle checked out by an automotive professional? Look out for some of the top warning signs of a bad wheel bearing.

How can you tell if wheel bearings are failing?

Ball bearings are the most commonly used wheel bearings today (along with roller bearings – although the latter don’t have the versatility of ball bearings). Other types are tapered roller bearings, which are mainly used for trucks, and precision ball bearings, which are designed to withstand heavy radial loads. Regardless of the type of vehicle you have, the warning signs are the same, particularly bad wheel bearing noise.

Here are just a few things to note:

First of all listen! The most common and most easily recognizable symptom of a bad wheel bearing is an audible one. If you notice a grinding or scraping noise from your wheel or tire, be aware that this is most likely caused by a failed wheel bearing – especially if the noise gets louder as the vehicle accelerates.

Another telling sign of bad wheel bearings: A car that feels loose to drive. Looseness can be difficult to convey, but at its core it refers to steering your car and noticing that it seems less responsive or less precise than usual. Loose steering is not always due to a wheel bearing problem, but very often it can be. Sometimes wheel bearings can wear out, causing them to loosen in your wheel assembly.

A related phenomenon is dragging. When you drive, does the car go where you tell it to, or does it seem like it has a mind of its own and steers in a certain direction? Again, this isn’t always due to a wheel bearing problem, but that can certainly be a culprit.

Finally, watch your tires. Changing your tires regularly can help prevent wear – but if you find you have extremely uneven wear, you might want to have the wheel bearings checked.

How to distinguish bad wheel bearing noises

humming noises

There are many noises from a vehicle that are a cause for concern, so it’s important to distinguish between them to avoid misdiagnosis. Noise can be misleading: A humming noise while driving can have various causes, starting with your tires, but it could also be the wheel bearing or CV joint.

Squeaks & growls

The classic sounds of a failed wheel bearing are cyclic chirping, squeaking and/or growling. You can also determine that the noise is related to the wheel bearings if it changes in proportion to vehicle speed. The noise may get worse with each revolution or temporarily disappear.

Rear differential noise vs. wheel bearing noise

A whining noise that only occurs when decelerating is a pretty good indicator of a loose pinion bearing preload. If the whine occurs when accelerating at different speeds, then it’s probably worn gears. However, even bearings that are too worn tend to make a whining noise if they don’t properly support the gears. They also tend to make a rumbling noise when spinning.

A bad wheel bearing is a serious problem

In short, a wheel bearing problem can affect the smoothness and longevity of your tires, but it can also create real safety concerns. It is therefore important to have the wheel bearings checked at the first sign of problems.

Don’t take this often-ignored automotive component for granted. Be prepared for these warning signs. At the first sign of trouble, take the vehicle for a wheel bearing inspection by a professional.

We can replace defective wheel bearings! Find a Meineke shop near you

Frequently asked Questions:

Q: Is it safe to drive with a bad wheel bearing?

On a. In fact, it can be very dangerous to ride when one of your bearings is worn, especially as this can cause the wheel to stall while riding. In addition, a damaged wheel bearing puts a lot of stress on the hub, constant velocity joint and the transmission itself.

Q: What can happen if you have a defective wheel bearing?

A: A failed wheel bearing can cause several potentially dangerous situations, starting with your vehicle not responding as it should. Your tires will also wear out faster and you may notice uneven tire wear. Last but not least, your wheel can fall off completely while driving as the bearing is an integral part of attaching the wheel to your car.

Q: How much does it cost to replace a wheel bearing?

A: A wheel bearing replacement is a standard job, so depending on the year, make and model of your vehicle, the cost should be very straightforward. However, if other related issues are discovered, such as: For example removing the steering knuckle to replace the wheel bearing or replacing some suspension components, costs will vary.

Q: What are the symptoms of a bad bearing?

A: Noise is the most common symptom of a bad wheel bearing. However, there are other possible signs, such as B. Vibrations while driving. At low speeds you will be able to feel the vibrations, while at higher speeds it will manifest itself as a hum.

Car enthusiast BHPians

Joined Date: January 2007 Location: Goa Contributions: 417 Thanks: 5 times

Team, weirdest thing, went to the Hyundai ASC and the wheel just doesn’t wobble or have play. I could swear he actually had an easy time at the tire shop, even the person who changed my tire told me something was wrong.

The Hyundai service station claims that everything is fine and the wheel has no play, put the car on a ramp and tried everything, no movement!

Damn, wondering what just happened, now this is actually going to make me think twice about speeding on the Pune/Mumbai expressway.