Frozen Rabbits Reptile Food? Trust The Answer

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Rabbit is a lean protein considered by many to be pure white meat. Because rabbit is such a tender meat, it can replace many chicken dishes.

Frozen rabbits are available whole or cut up and generally weigh about 4 pounds clean. Each rabbit comes with a liver and frontal.

If you are interested in a fresh rabbit please call to inquire about availability.

If you’ve never owned a pet snake, you may not know about their feeding habits. Of course, snakes in the wild have a much more diverse diet than snakes in captivity, but for the most part they eat the same types of food. For snakes in captivity, mice at various life stages from day-old to adult are the main food, although they may eat many other animals as well.

Although snakes primarily eat mammals, they have no problem branching out and eating other animal species such as frogs, lizards, birds, and other snakes. Snakes will even eat eggs when the opportunity arises. But will a snake attack and eat a rabbit? The answer is yes, absolutely. There is one caveat, however, but you’ll have to read on to find out what it is!

Obligatory carnivores

Snakes are obligate carnivores. This means they get all of their nutritional needs from eating other animals. They don’t need to eat any plant matter like fruits and vegetables to survive.

As obligate carnivores, snakes are not known for being picky eaters. They eat pretty much anything that gets in their way. This includes all orders of rodents and small mammals, including mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, squirrels, chipmunks, prairie dogs and rabbits. Further down they eat frogs, toads, lizards, pigeons, sparrows, eggs and much more. Suffice it to say that snakes rarely refuse a meal.

Related Read: What do snakes eat in the wild and as pets?

jaw gaping

Although snakes are willing to eat almost anything, they are still subject to the laws of physics. No matter how much a snake wants to eat of a particular meal, if the animal cannot fit through the snake’s jaws, it cannot be eaten.

Thankfully, the snakes have some incredible jaw talents. Many people mistakenly think that snakes can dislocate their jaws to eat larger prey, but that’s actually a myth. Still, it’s based on reality. If you’ve ever seen a snake eat something much larger than its own head, you know that it appears as if the snake’s jaws are dislocating.

In reality, snakes have jaws very different from ours. A snake’s upper and lower jaws are not connected, allowing them to open their jaws amazingly wide. This allows them to eat prey many times larger than their own size. Once a snake has eaten, it doesn’t move much for a few days while the meal is digested. Immediately after feeding, you can see the gigantic bulge in the snake where the food sits.

Size matters

Despite the snake’s appetite for any living thing it can fit in its mouth, there’s still something that keeps most snakes from eating rabbits. Rabbits are quite large compared to other small mammals. For example, think how much bigger a rabbit is than a squirrel. In order for a snake to eat a rabbit, that snake would have to be quite large.

However, there are many species of snakes that are perfectly capable of eating full-sized rabbits. And remember, rabbits are much smaller when they are babies, and then snakes in the wild often feed on them.

Some snake keepers and breeders who deal with very large breeds like the Burmese python have been known to use rabbits as a cheap and available food source for their snakes. However, most snake species are only large enough to eat rabbits when they are babies.

Conclusion

Snakes are fairly non-discriminatory when it comes to mealtimes. Any animal small enough to fit through the snake’s jaws is fair game. Rabbits are definitely on the menu, but most snakes are only big enough to eat baby rabbits. Full-size rabbits are generally safe from being eaten by a snake, although larger breeds like anacondas and Burmese pythons can make a light snack out of a cotton tail.

Featured image: Tomáš Malík, Pexels

Caring for your pet rabbit

Rabbits make great pets. In general, rabbits need proper housing, exercise, socialization and a specific diet for good welfare. Some rabbit breeds, especially the long-haired rabbits, may need daily grooming. It is important that you understand all of the requirements for caring for a rabbit before purchasing one.

Rabbits generally live 5 to 8 years depending on their environment and breed, but they can live up to 12 years. If you decide to buy a rabbit, make sure you are willing to take care of it for that long.

legislation

The Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986 protects the welfare of all animals, including rabbits.

feed your rabbit

Rabbits are herbivores and only eat plant matter. Their natural diet generally consists of young leaves of:

plants or shrubs

grasses

weed

sometimes the bark of bushes and trees.

Rabbits often need to eat small amounts. About 30 feedings of 2 to 8g of food per day is normal. Pet rabbits must be fed a high-fiber diet to maintain the health of their bodies and teeth. Rabbit teeth are constantly growing and need to be constantly worn down by eating.

Their diet must consist of unlimited access to grass hay and/or grass. If you keep your rabbit indoors most of the time, or they don’t have access to grass for several hours a day, consider using grass hay as an alternative source of fiber. Grass clippings should not be fed to rabbits as they ferment quickly and cause indigestion in your rabbit.

Fresh green vegetables like cabbage, lettuce, broccoli, and celery should be included in your daily diet—about 2 cups a day. But fresh green vegetables must not be the only source of nutrition, the fiber content is too low. Rabbits need a high-fiber diet.

Rabbits need a tablespoon of commercial rabbit nuggets or pellets once or twice a day. Do not feed your rabbit muesli – this will cause dental disease. Rabbits that eat muesli also tend to leave behind the parts they don’t like and this leads to nutrient deficiencies.

Foods high in fat and sugar, such as carrots, other root vegetables and fruit, should only be fed in small amounts. You can use these types of food to enrich the environment.

There are many toxic foods and plants for rabbits that you should avoid feeding your rabbit or growing in your garden.

Talk to your local veterinarian, pet store, or rabbit breeder about the most appropriate diet for your pet. Always remember to introduce new food slowly to avoid indigestion.

Fresh, cool water must be available at all times.

House your rabbit

Rabbits need a hutch that is protected from predators such as dogs and cats to live. She needs an area that protects her from the elements and provides enough space to exercise. A suitable hutch design is waterproof and includes a dark, dry area for the rabbits to rest that has a bedding of soft hay. The other part of the stall should be light and large enough to allow for a separate exercise and toilet area. The barn must be well ventilated. A wooden coop is best, as metal coops heat up faster.

Rabbits should not be placed in pens or pens with wire floors as this is bad for their feet. It’s okay if part of the enclosure is made of wire, as long as your rabbit has an area to stand on solid ground. Many two-story barns offer this option.

Your hutch needs to be at least “three hops long” (about four times the length of your rabbit when stretched out) and twice the width of your rabbit. Anything smaller and your rabbit will be too tight. If you’re buying a juvenile rabbit, remember that it’s growing.

It is important to clean the hutch at least every other day by removing soiled bedding and to ensure the rabbits have a dry sleeping area. Rabbits without clean bedding can suffer from respiratory infections, skin diseases and pest infestations such as fleas and mites. Rabbits can be toilet trained. There is a lot of information online about toilet training rabbits.

Rabbits should spend most of their time indoors, or equal parts indoors and outdoors. When your rabbit is indoors, it should be given at least some time each day to exercise freely. You may want to set up a room or two where your rabbit can roam freely and interact with the family. Remember that rabbits love to chew on things. So if you let your rabbit run around unsupervised, you may end up getting some chewed baseboards, cables, or chair legs home.

If you want to give your rabbit a larger living space than their hutch when you’re away from home, consider a pet hutch or playpen. You can attach it to the hutch to give your rabbit more space to exercise and play.

Your pet rabbit should be able to dig and forage when outside. They should be confined to a closed area and not allowed to roam freely. A secure backyard that isn’t invaded by other animals (especially cats or wild rabbits) is great, but a secluded lawn is good, too.

Make sure that if you leave your rabbit outside for long periods of time, he has access to his hutch or a weatherproof area with litter so he can rest.

Company for your rabbit

Rabbits are social species and prefer to live in groups. If you decide to have a rabbit, always keep at least 2 rabbits. However, if you don’t have the space, time, or money to keep two rabbits, you need to become your rabbit’s companion. This means providing your rabbit with activities and toys to keep them occupied and to prevent them from feeling lonely or stressed when they are away for a long period of time (more than 4 hours a day).

If you have 2 or more rabbits, it is important to avoid unwanted pregnancies. Separate males and females into separate pens, or have your veterinarian desex them. Males will be less likely to fight with each other if introduced at a young age. Females and males can tend to fight with each other, so help new rabbits get used to each other in a supervised environment or by a chain link fence before they live together.

rabbit behavior

Rabbits are playful and curious and need stimulation from other rabbits or people and their surroundings. They are active animals that need regular exercise and play. Ensuring that your rabbit is getting enough stimulation is an important aspect of caring for your rabbit. This can be achieved through environmental enrichment.

Rabbits are most active in the early morning, late afternoon and evening. This is the best time for you to interact with your rabbit.

Smell is an important means of communication for rabbits.

Rabbits are a prey species, they are the animals that catch and eat other animals. As such, rabbits naturally hide from things that frighten them. Your rabbit’s environment must take care of that. You must provide them with hiding places in their enclosure.

For rabbits it is natural:

chew on things (it keeps their teeth healthy)

Nest (build nests from their own fur, hay and other materials lying around)

tapping with the hind feet

play with objects.

Contact your veterinarian if you notice a rapid change in your rabbit’s behavior, such as:

hidden

Aggression when you try to touch or pick her up

excessive cage or object chewing

about care

Changes in diet or toileting

play with water bottles

about drinking

repeated circling of the enclosure.

Your rabbit could be in pain or suffering from stress.

health problems

Rabbits are prone to a number of health issues, particularly diseases like myxomatosis and calicivirus. These diseases are generally fatal to pet rabbits. They were introduced to Australia to control the wild rabbit population. Unfortunately, pet rabbits are just as susceptible to them. Try to reduce the risk of mosquito bites for your rabbits, as mosquitoes can transmit myxomatosis from the wild rabbit population to your pet.

There is a vaccine against the calicivirus. You can have your rabbit vaccinated against this disease by your veterinarian every 6 months.

Rabbits can develop dental problems. It is important that they are constantly chewing something, either grass, hay or a nail block. Your teeth grow at a rate of 2 to 3 mm per week. Overgrown teeth can lead to weight loss, severe pain and discomfort. If you think your rabbit’s teeth are growing too long, speak to your veterinarian about appropriate ways to shorten the teeth and maintain an appropriate length.

Rabbits are prone to mite infestations. Symptoms include hair loss and itching. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the stable. The rabbit should be treated by a veterinarian.

Get advice from your local veterinarian on any health problems your rabbit is developing.

Desex your rabbit

Many animal shelters are inundated with unwanted pet rabbits that have been bred by accident. If you don’t plan on breeding your rabbit, discuss desexing with your veterinarian. In male rabbits, this is a relatively simple procedure. In female rabbits, it is a major operation. Desexing can help reduce nesting behavior and improve toilet training.

Alternatively, you can separate males and females into different pens.

Heat stress in rabbits

Rabbits can suffer from heat stress. Once the temperature rises above 28°C, you will need to monitor your rabbits regularly. It is important not to place the coop in direct sunlight during the warmer months. Also keep it in the shade on warm to cool days. It doesn’t take long for heat to build up in small areas. On hot days it may be necessary to provide a frozen drinking bottle or ice block in the nesting area of ​​the coop to reduce the temperature.

If your coop is indoors and the temperature is likely to rise above 30°C, you may need to place the coop in a location where there is wind. You can open a window when there is a breeze to cool your rabbit down.

A rabbit suffering from heat stroke may show signs of the following:

weakness

in coordination

cramps

Coma.

If you suspect your rabbit is suffering from heat stress, you must contact your vet immediately. While you wait, start bringing the rabbit’s temperature down by placing them in lukewarm water or wrapping them in cool, damp towels. Never put your heat-stressed rabbit in cold or freezing water.

handling your rabbit

Rabbits make great pets for children. However, they are fragile and small children should not handle them. They can accidentally cause injury when picking the rabbit by squeezing it too hard or dropping it. Children should always be supervised when interacting with and, in the case of older children, handling rabbits.

Rabbits need to be handled appropriately so they don’t scratch or bite and can develop a positive relationship with humans. Handle rabbits regularly, especially when they are young. Sit down while holding a rabbit to keep the rabbit from falling. Rabbits should be picked up with two hands. Keep them close to their chest or on your lap so they can rest their feet and feel secure.

Train your rabbit

Rabbits need daily exercise. If your rabbit lives in a minimal sized hutch, make sure they have a safe space to run around. Your rabbit needs access to it for at least four hours a day. Toys, obstacles, and treats are environmental enrichments that encourage your rabbit to exercise when you’re not home.

rabbits and other pets

Rabbits can be a wonderful addition to your family. If you have other pets, it’s important to consider your rabbit’s effects on them and them on your rabbit. Dogs and cats can have a natural instinct to hunt and kill rabbits. If you are introducing rabbits into a home that already has dogs and cats, your rabbit must be safe from other pets at all times.

Barking dogs can also cause stress to your rabbit. If your dog barks at your rabbit, make sure the coop or run is not accessible to your dog unless you are there to supervise him.

When your rabbits get along well with your other pets, that’s awesome. Your rabbit will have another companion when you can’t be with them. But always keep your rabbit safe.

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Try again

When you get your first pet bunny, your first task is to find a perfect place to buy a rabbit.

Where you buy your rabbits can have a significant impact on how happy and healthy your rabbits will be for the rest of their lives. So try to do as much research as you can and choose carefully where to get your rabbit. If you make a wrong choice, your rabbit may need a lot of veterinary care, which can cost you dearly in the long run.

Here are some of the best places to buy a rabbit; both in physical locations and online.

Physical locations to buy rabbits

Physical locations are the most common places to buy pets, including a rabbit. They are so reliable and offer customer protection and satisfaction. They include:

1. Animal shelter and rescue groups

Your local animal shelter or rabbit rescue group should be your first port of call when deciding to adopt a rabbit. If they don’t have a suitable rabbit for you at this time, ask to be put on their waiting list.

Almost every region has at least one animal rescue, although not all animal rescues accept pet rabbits. To find a rescue group that specializes in rabbits, contact your local animal shelter or search “Rabbit Rescues Near Me” online.

Along with dogs and cats, rabbits are the animal species most often given over to animal rescue. Most rabbits lose their homes for human reasons, including the owner’s inability to care for the pet, and not because the rabbit has any health or behavioral problems.

In addition to animal shelters and rescue groups, there are many private rabbit adoption agencies run by people with a deep understanding of rabbits. Most agencies rely on volunteers to care for the homeless until they find a home. Some rabbit rescue groups work with local animal shelters and help house rabbits through their foster network.

When contacting an animal shelter group, make sure you learn a lot about organizing and caring for their animals. Also, find out how they decide which animals are eligible for adoption, and what other adoptions and post-adoption services are available.

Adoption fees vary, but the package may include a certificate for a free vet visit and an affordable cost of spray or neuter surgery.

2. Local rabbit breeders

Almost every region is likely to have individuals who raise rabbits as pets. These are often healthy bunnies owned by rabbit lovers who love their pets very much.

Reputable breeders don’t just do business for money, they will sell their rabbits to the first person who shows up with cash in hand. A good breeder is personally involved in every sale. They will never sell through a pet store or third party that doesn’t allow them to meet the potential family and ensure they are a perfect match for the bunny.

Avoid buying a pet rabbit from the so-called backyard breeders. Most of them are unfamiliar with genetics and proper breeding practices. The result is rabbits with health and temperamental issues that you may not discover until years later.

You can find a reputable breeder by asking a trusted friend or your veterinarian for recommendations, contacting local breed clubs, or attending rabbit shows.

Do not buy a rabbit without personally visiting the place where the rabbit was born and raised. Take the time to find the right breeder and you will be happy for the rest of your rabbit’s life.

3. Pet Shops

A pet store is the most common place to find a pet rabbit.

The main benefit of buying a rabbit from a pet store is that these stores are easily accessible and it is easy to get a rabbit. Most pet stores often have several rabbits to choose from and usually have many breeds to ensure you get a rabbit of your choice.

To find a pet store, simply open your browser and search for “find a pet store near me”.

4. Animal swap

Almost every region has animal fairs where individuals buy and sell animals. The pets are usually kept at local farm supply stores or pet stores.

To find an animal exchange, start on Facebook and search for events by “animal exchange” or “animal auction”. Or you can contact your local farm supply store and see if they know of an animal exchange in your area. Most animal swaps are regular events outside of the winter season.

5. Local 4-H Clubs

If you grew up as a 4-H kid, you probably have an idea of ​​the depth and breadth of 4-H projects available for these kids. One of the most common projects in any 4-H club is bunnies.

Children and their families breed rabbits for production, shows or sell them as pets in these rabbit clubs.

You can search for local clubs on the 4-H Clubs websites. However, if you can’t find a local 4-H Club leader there, you can start looking locally.

Almost every region has an advisory office that connects the community with the regional department of agriculture or colleges. These extension offices often oversee the 4-H clubs and if they don’t they will connect you to those who do.

Google your regional Extension Office to find your local 4-H club and email them asking for the local club’s contact information.

You can also find out when your local county fair is and attend to find the rabbit show area. There you will see different breeds of rabbits, and at the end of the fair you can even offer some rabbits for sale.

Online stores for rabbits

If you’re looking to buy a specific breed of rabbit but can’t find one at a shelter or individual group, you may need to search for one online. But be careful when shopping online. Without research and caution, you could find yourself funding an imported, unhealthy and unhappy rabbit.

However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use the internet to find a bunny. Some online sites can help you find specific breeds based on your routine and lifestyle.

1. CraigsList

Craigslist remains the largest dedicated online classifieds marketplace enabling the sale of animals. You can find almost anything for sale on Craigslist, including rabbits.

Craigslist usually has a different website for each city and major city. They have listing categories on every website, and pet rabbits usually fall under the “pet” category. Just google “Craigslist CITY Pets” to find the right site and category for you, replacing CITY with your city/town name.

2. Websites classified by rabbits

There are numerous rabbit classifieds sites on the internet, although most of them are so small that they are difficult to find and probably not worth finding.

Here are some of the well-known classified websites for rabbits:

3. Farm Supply Store Notice Boards

Most farm supply stores have notice boards supporting local farming individuals and businesses. If you want to mow and pick a grass field, need a pasture cleared of pine trees, or even want to buy a new pet rabbit, check the notice boards.

You can find them online by searching “Farm Supplies Near Me”.

Final Thoughts

The best place to buy a pet rabbit depends on your needs. Rescue bunnies from shelters or individual groups are the best places to buy a rabbit because you are rescuing a rabbit. But your local breeders, local 4-H club, and pet swap meetups can also be good places to get a pet rabbit.

Pet stores are also common places to buy a pet rabbit, although they’re not highly recommended. Rabbits in pet stores are usually stressed and subject to health issues that you won’t typically find in other rabbits. Also, you may be paying a hefty price for a rabbit at a pet store.

Selected image source: Zanna Pesnina, Shutterstock

Scientists in Japan have managed to revive an animal that froze to death in Antarctica 30 years ago.

Scientists at Japan’s National Institute of Polar Research have brought back to life a frozen animal they collected in Antarctica called “tardigrades”.

Tardigrades are commonly known as “water bears” or “moss piglets.” Tardigrades are typically around 0.5mm long when fully grown. They are short and plump, with four pairs of legs, each ending in claws (usually four to eight) or sucking discs. They feed on plant cells and algae.

They can go for years without food or water, withstand freezing and boiling temperatures, and endure the blistering radiation and vacuum of space.

Previously, tardigrades had been successfully resuscitated after nine years, but this is believed to be the first-ever case of a successful resuscitation in 30 years.

NASA recently sent 5,000 tardigrades into space. Tardigrades were sent for their ability to survive in high stress environments.

Rabbits from the farm to the table

Rabbit meat is sold fresh or frozen all year round. It can be used in most ways that chicken is used. Like other lean meats, poultry, and fish, rabbit meat is a good source of high-quality protein. The meat is fine-fibered and has a mild taste. Rabbits sold for food in the United States are commonly crosses between New Zealand and Belgian varieties, imported Chinese rabbits, or Scottish hares.

How are rabbit products commonly labeled?

Fryer or Kitten – The terms “fryer” or “kitten” refer to a rabbit that weighs no less than 1½ pounds and rarely exceeds 3½ pounds and is less than 12 weeks old. The flesh is tender, fine-grained and bright pearly pink in colour. These rabbits can be cooked in a manner similar to young poultry.

or the terms “fryer” or “kid” refer to a rabbit weighing not less than 1 1/2 pounds and seldom more than 3 1/2 pounds and less than 12 weeks old. The flesh is tender, fine-grained and bright pearly pink in colour. These rabbits can be cooked in a manner similar to young poultry. Roaster or Adult Rabbit – The terms ‘roaster’ or ‘adult rabbit’ refer to an adult rabbit of any weight but typically over 4 pounds and over 8 months old. The flesh is firm and gritty, and the muscle fiber is slightly darker and less tender. The fat can be creamier than that of a deep fryer or a young rabbit. Larger rabbit meat can be tougher, so braising or steaming are the best cooking methods.

or the terms “rooster” or “adult rabbit” refer to an adult rabbit of any weight but usually over 4 pounds and over 8 months old. The flesh is firm and gritty, and the muscle fiber is slightly darker and less tender. The fat can be creamier than that of a deep fryer or a young rabbit. Larger rabbit meat can be tougher, so braising or steaming are the best cooking methods. Offal – the liver and heart.

How are rabbits examined?

Under the Federal Meat Inspection Act (FMIA), the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) inspects swine, cattle, sheep, and goats. Under the Poultry Products Inspection Act (PPIA), the FSIS inspects “domestic poultry” which is defined as chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese, guineas, ratites and young pigeons.

Congress has not mandated the inspection of rabbits under either the FMIA or the PPIA; Therefore, the examination of rabbits is voluntary. Voluntary control of animals including buffalo, antelope, reindeer, elk, deer, migratory waterfowl, wildfowl and rabbits is regulated under the Agricultural Marketing Act. In the voluntary examination, each rabbit and its internal organs are examined for signs of disease. The Inspected for Wholesomeness by USDA mark ensures the rabbit is healthy and disease free. If a rabbit processor does not produce rabbit meat under the voluntary inspection of the FSIS, it is subject to inspection by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.

However, some states do not allow the sale of rabbits unless controlled under their laws.

The FDA is responsible for shipping rabbit meat in interstate commerce.

Is rabbit judged?

Yes, rabbits can be evaluated under the voluntary rabbit grading program administered by the USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service. It provides a national grading service based on official US grades, standards and ratings for poultry.

Rabbits may only be graded if they have been inspected and passed by the FSIS or inspected and passed by another inspection system acceptable to the USDA, such as: B. Government control.

Consumer grades for rabbits are US Grade A, US Grade B, and US Grade C.

Are hormones and antibiotics used in rabbit breeding?

Antibiotics can be given to prevent or treat diseases in rabbits. A “withdrawal period” is required from the time antibiotics are administered until the animal is legally slaughtered. This gives the debris time to exit the animal’s system.

No hormones are used in rabbit rearing.

Safe storage times

Take the rabbit home from the grocer immediately and refrigerate at 40°F or below. Use within 2 days or freeze at 0°F. If continuously frozen, it is safe indefinitely; However, the quality degrades over time. It is safe to freeze rabbits in their original packaging. For longer storage, pack it like any other food for long-term storage. For best quality, use frozen whole rabbit within a year; Pieces within 9 months.

Safe thawing

There are three ways to safely defrost rabbits: in the refrigerator, in cold water, or in the microwave. Never thaw at room temperature.

Fridge: It’s best to plan for a slow, safe thaw in the fridge. Bone-in portions or whole rabbits may take a day or more to thaw. Once thawed, rabbit can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 days before cooking. If during this time you decide not to use the rabbit, you can safely refreeze it without cooking it.

It’s best to plan for a slow, safe thaw in the refrigerator. Bone-in portions or whole rabbits may take a day or more to thaw. Once thawed, rabbit can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 days before cooking. If during this time you decide not to use the rabbit, you can safely refreeze it without cooking it. Cold Water: To thaw rabbits in cold water, do not remove the packaging. Make sure the packaging is airtight or place in a leak-proof bag. Submerge the rabbit in cold water, changing the water every 30 minutes to keep it thawing. Small packages can thaw in an hour or less; larger packages may take 2 to 3 hours. Prepare to cook the rabbit using the cold water method immediately after thawing.

Do not remove packaging to thaw rabbits in cold water. Make sure the packaging is airtight or place in a leak-proof bag. Submerge the rabbit in cold water, changing the water every 30 minutes to keep it thawing. Small packages can thaw in an hour or less; larger packages may take 2 to 3 hours. Prepare to cook the rabbit using the cold water method immediately after thawing. Microwave Oven: If thawing rabbits in the microwave, plan to cook them immediately after thawing, as some areas of the food may become warm and begin to cook.

Safe Cooking

When roasting rabbit parts, do not set the oven temperature lower than 325°F. A trimmed 2 pound rabbit should take about 1 hour to cook.

A whole 2 to 2 1/2 pound rabbit should take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours to roast. Stuffing will add about 1/2 hour to the cooking time.

Braising rabbit (boiling in a small amount of liquid in a pan with a lid on the stovetop or in the oven) also takes about 1 hour. Rabbit can be grilled for about 15 minutes on each side.

For safety reasons, the USDA recommends cooking rabbits to an internal temperature of at least 160°F. Using a food thermometer is recommended to ensure your rabbit is safe to eat.

It’s safe to cook frozen rabbit in the oven or on the stovetop or grill without first defrosting it, although the cooking time can be about 50% longer.

Don’t cook frozen rabbit in a slow cooker; thaw first. Cut whole rabbits into smaller pieces to allow the heat to penetrate the meat faster.

Safe handling of leftovers

Rebecca thinks rabbits make great pets and is happy to share tips on keeping a rabbit healthy and happy.

It’s really important to make sure your rabbit is properly cared for when the weather turns cold. Here’s a guide to help you get started. Image of 7843600 from Pixabay

Take precautions before winter sets in

Keeping rabbits outdoors comes with some challenges, but most are directly related to the weather. Rabbits can easily die from heat stroke in hot weather, and they are at risk of freezing to death or contracting cold-related illnesses during the cold months.

In this article, we’ll discuss some pointers for keeping your rabbit warm and comfortable during the winter, when temperatures can drop well below freezing depending on where you live, and biting winds and snow are constant considerations. Precautions must be taken to protect these animals before the onset of winter, especially in northern climates.

Housing

The main concern is the location and design of your cage or coop. The cage should be placed in a sheltered area that offers protection from the wind, especially northerly winds. It should have some form of roof (many rabbit owners prefer roofing sheet metal as it cannot be chewed) and will likely need protection on the sides depending on the type of shelter.

Wooden hutches with wire floors and wire fronts are great for cold weather as they offer protection at the top and on three sides, but also run the risk of being gnawed at by a bored rabbit. For maximum protection, a heavy tarpaulin can be made for the front of the cage, which is rolled up in fair weather but can be put up in wind, storm and night.

Keep your rabbits dry

During the winter months, the most important thing is to keep your rabbit dry in cold weather. Most rabbit breeds have thick coats that provide excellent insulation against the weather, but when water reaches their skin, they can’t stay warm. Protecting the animal from precipitation eliminates the greatest of these risks, but there are others.

Water bowls should be securely fastened to the side of the cage so the rabbit cannot accidentally knock them over. Ideally, this bowl should also stand on the floor of the cage so that the rabbit does not run the risk of climbing into it.

Wire floor cages that keep litter or spilled food and water out of the rabbit’s reach are ideal for staying clean and dry. This allows all waste to fall right through the bars and get out of the cage completely. Many cages come with trays for catching litter, and these should be placed far enough under the cage itself so that it doesn’t fill up to the rabbit’s feet. Depending on the cage design, this pan needs to be checked periodically to ensure it is not filling up with snow.

water supply

It can be difficult to keep your rabbit hydrated in freezing temperatures. It doesn’t take long for rabbits to become severely dehydrated, especially in the cold, and they need access to water at all times.

While most rabbit owners prefer water bottles with a bullet-activated hose so rabbits always have clean water to drink, these can be dangerous in the winter. The thin metal tube freezes much faster than the water in the bottle, so caretakers can believe their rabbit still has drinkable water when the tube is frozen solid.

A simple dish or a dish that uses a 20-ounce or 1-liter plastic bottle for its supply is preferable. Of these bottles, the wide mouth bottles do not freeze easily. If heated food is available that the rabbit cannot chew, the water can be completely saved from freezing.

Place the water bowl in a sheltered spot in the cage, high enough off the ground so you can’t step in it or spill anything. Top up the water every day and check several times a day, especially in very cold weather. The warmth of the rabbit’s body in a well-protected cage can often be enough to keep the water from freezing, or it will slow the rate of freezing.

isolation and nesting

Finally, make sure the rabbit has a nesting box that is not much larger than the rabbit’s body size. This box can be lined with straw for extra warmth. If the crate is too big, it will leave too much room for cold air to get in around the rabbit, especially on its less protected feet.

The box should allow easy entry and exit, with just enough room for the rabbit to roll over inside. The rabbit’s body should fit snugly into the nesting material as it curls up to sleep. This provides the rabbit with a warmer haven on cold nights or windy days when bitter winds can easily rise through a wire floor and freeze their feet.

Cold weather can be deadly for any animal, but with just a few precautions and a rabbit’s naturally well-insulated body, the animal can live warm and comfortably in even the coldest of climates. Rabbits survive further north in the wild than most other animals, but your pet rabbit relies on you to give them the benefits that allow their wild relatives to live year-round.

Keeping rabbits outdoors comes with all sorts of challenges, but most are directly related to the weather. Nathan Anderson

Check on your rabbit every day

The cold weather can make rabbits more susceptible to illnesses, so check on them regularly. One of the most common diseases is hypothermia. Symptoms include:

Cold nose, ears and paws

lethargy

loss of appetite

change in breathing

If your rabbit gets hypothermia, they can die quickly (sometimes within hours), so it’s important to have a plan in place before winter hits.

I hope this article was helpful. Well I would really appreciate anyone who has the time to leave a comment below and let me know what your biggest challenge has been keeping rabbits outdoors in your area.

This article is accurate and truthful to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not intended to replace diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription or formal and individual advice from a veterinarian. Animals showing signs and symptoms of stress should be presented to a veterinarian immediately.

Carlota on April 15, 2020:

Hello, my dog ​​loves to sprint outside and bark at other animals like other dogs, squirrels, people and more and I am afraid he will scare my rabbits so much they will die. What should I do??

Austin Bowen on March 09, 2020:

Hello, thanks for the information, the family started raising rabbits in early March and it still gets quite cold at night. I’m just checking if I’m doing it right. So far yes lol but I’m having a problem with the water bowl so I’ll have to come up with something. We mistakenly have 3 males and 1 female. But hopefully it works!

Caroline Lockhart on November 13, 2019:

My rabbit has burrowed out of the run and is using the hedge as a shelter instead of coming into the hutch. I leave feed down in the stall and hope he comes in so I can bring him in from the cold, but I can. Can’t I get him, is there anything I can do to catch him, or will he be okay?

Joyce Laming on November 02, 2019:

This rabbit sure was someone’s pet and they just let it go and it comes to my yard and when it hears me I come to but I couldn’t pick it up but I feed it all the time and I do I’m looking for the right shelter for it in winter I’m afraid it’ll probably freeze, poor thing

Brianna on January 26, 2019:

Thanks very much! I really prefer to leave these animals alone

Go and live free in the wild but the kids love them and most importantly I don’t know if they can take care of themselves after being cared for so many times a day. I have a two storey house where the sides and back are covered and the front is open except for the nesting area which had a gap the size of our dwarf and half the size of the other my sister made without permission had delivered … It worked, they are in love. How can you tell if it’s a man or a woman, do nipples count? Also, I want to give them space to roam outside on the ground, but fenced in (top too), do you recommend how deep I should go to stop them digging their way out?

Michelle on November 20, 2018:

Good information. Many Thanks

Paul on June 27, 2018:

Many Thanks. Very helpful

Tim on March 18, 2018:

I don’t have a rabbit. I weigh the options.

Donna on January 16, 2018:

Many Thanks. Your article was very helpful.

Carrie on January 05, 2018:

Very informative. Thank you for being one of the good guys in the world. Health.

Tom O on November 11, 2017:

Plastic bottom inserts prevent your rabbit feet from getting sore hocks and keep them out of the cold metal cage.

bunny bunny on October 25, 2017:

What temperature is too cold for rabbits without special care?

C.fish on October 13, 2017:

Thank you for all the great advice. I bought a rabbit proof electric heating pad for my rabbit. Do you have any tips for using heating pads? I recently adopted my rabbit from a family who no longer wanted him. This is my first bunny so thanks for sharing your knowledge. I appreciate any advice to keep my rabbit healthy and happy!

Bun Mama on October 11, 2016:

We live in New England. Are there any products you recommend to keep the buns warm in winter? How about their water – like a hot water bottle?

Thanks very much!

Chany on 09/05/2014:

Thanks, this article is very helpful as I live in Switzerland and it can get down to -20C here. My rabbits live outside in a small wooden house sheltered from the wind and with a window, but I can get really cold there anyway. They also only drink from pots and not bottles so thanks for the tips on keeping the water up.

Could you maybe write something about how to make the inside of the cottage or hutch more fun and exciting for the rabbits? Because my rabbit cage is pretty boring and I don’t have much space and I don’t have a fenced yard.

Many Thanks

Linda Eskey on January 27, 2014:

This was so helpful, I live in Ohio and was worried about my outdoor rabbit. I brought him here during the last cold spell. When I took him back outside he hadn’t eaten for three days so I was afraid I was doing him more harm than good. So thanks for this article.

Hiyapeep’s on November 24, 2012:

Hello, I am trying to persuade my parents to get me a rabbit today and it is cold outside, my father said yes and mother said no because it will be freezing outside. I can’t wait to tell her I can’t and show her. But thank you very much for taking the time to write this article and thank you for the time you have dedicated to it as well have to read this article

Cathleena Beams from Tennessee on May 28, 2012:

I got my kids a rabbit when they were about three and four years old. The boys are grown now. Raising the rabbit outside would probably have been safer. Little did I know that either of our two cats would knock over the rabbit cage at our house and we had to take little Thumper (the rabbit) to the vet for a broken ear. After a round of antibiotics, which we hoped would work, he succumbed to an infection on the last day of the cure. The vet had told us antibiotics don’t always work so we should have been better prepared but it was a sad moment especially for the boys. I decided cats and rabbits weren’t a good mix, so we never got a rabbit again.

Hodini’s mother on January 02, 2012:

Hodini and I appreciate the tips on how to keep him warm tonight as temperatures drop to 21F. He actually already had all of your tips, so I was pretty proud of my “natural (rabbit) mothering instinct”.

ber3333muda on December 31, 2011:

Hello everybody. this is my first post. My daughter and I have 2 Flemish Giants. They are 5 months old and growing fast. Their names are Jasper and Jupiter. We’d love to chat to others who have giants!

Stone fox on December 15, 2011:

Summer can be challenging. I get extra large plastic sour cream containers from a local Taco Johns, fill them with water and freeze them for a day or two. The ice slides out fairly easily and can be placed in the cage with the rabbit. They will lick it, lie down next to it and roll it around. For an extra treat, I drop a few pieces of fruit or veg into the water before freezing.

In the cold, I have trouble watering them. I use small plastic pet food bowls available at Wal Mart. They can be found in the cat supply aisle and are only about $4 each. The ice cream pops out fairly easily as long as you don’t tap too hard…it’s plastic and sometimes they break in two just in the cold. Because of their small size, I have to fill them twice a day. I have a 30 gallon barrel of water in my garage next to the outdoor rabbit hutch…I have an electric drop in heater to keep it from freezing. I usually fill it up every week or so by carrying 5 gallon buckets from the side of the house.

caymanmama on December 13, 2011:

I have 2 rabbits that I got in June. One always lay in the terracotta saucer of water I kept for her. When it got really hot, I’d put some ice cubes in and they’d chew on them. My rabbit cage was 3ft. off the ground, enclosed in my fenced yard. (Easier to spread the manure (poop) on the beds. A friend gave me a 4″ x 10″ x 4″ dog house with chain links. We banged one end against the side of a wood shed, put 2 sheets of plywood on top for a roof and in Nov covered the top and sides with a double tarp leaving the front open Let the sun in during the day, I have hay on the kennel floor and let them out of the stall to roam around in there.If it’s over 45 degrees I make a long chicken wire that attaches to the kennel doorway and they can go out on the grass and enjoy the exercise!The coop is about 1 1/2′ off the ground on legs.I put down a plank with slats about 8 inches apart along the length and they can climb to the ground and back again.

after they had their hour of running. Now that temperatures are below freezing overnight, I wrap the open sides of the hutch with heavy-duty bubble wrap, which also covers the water bottle. It keeps them a little warmer and the water has yet to be frozen. I hope this helps someone keep their bunnies warm this winter. I also bought a hard plastic baby rattle and they love tossing it around! So that they don’t get bored. Be careful not to get the gummy kind they might eat. You are a riot to watch!

Cat owners on November 19, 2011:

Thanks Wychic for this reply, I will go into town tomorrow to get the straw, not much ink on these bags, I was concerned about the ink too. Many Thanks

Rebecca Mikulin (author) of Sheridan, Wyoming on November 19, 2011:

Hi! I would not recommend newspaper as the ink can be absorbed or eaten by the feet and cause a problem. As for brown bags – it wouldn’t hurt to give it a try, especially if you have temps as cold or colder as today (high from 14F, 6F now) as it will help lessen the flow of cold air a bit. Rabbits love to chew paper, however, and it’s likely to get dirty quickly, so it won’t last long. It should work for an emergency stop gap.

Cat owners on November 18, 2011:

Can I put brown paper bags or newspaper in my rabbit cage to help against the cold until I can come into town for straw?

Rebecca Mikulin (author) of Sheridan, Wyoming on October 13, 2011:

Hi! If you have a heat lamp available then by all means use it, especially since they are younger :). I live in Northern Wyoming so our winters are pretty much the same. We had a rabbit enclosure that was all outdoors year round and they usually did well as long as they were kept dry, sheltered from the wind and had good nesting material. However, some of them were hard frost, especially the Dutch dwarfs and all the rabbits that were alone in a cage. Most of my rabbits were New Zealand Whites with a trio of Californians and a few Rex pairs (apart from the three Dutch pairs) and they all generally wintered well. That said, with a heat lamp available, that might help some of the midwinter angst a bit :).

Kathy on October 13, 2011:

This is a great post. I just started raising two rabbits. They were born in April and I have their stable in a shed. Even if it’s in the shed for the winter, they need a heater or heat lamp in the shed to keep them thriving in the northern Idaho winter. Temperatures are very low and I don’t want them to die. I have one male and one female sibling. I built the coop out of wooden boxes and then they have a fenced running area in the backyard leading to the coop so they can come and go as they please. I bring them in at night (9-10) and close the door on the shed. It’s not an insulated shed and I’m worried they’ll get too cold. I also had them fixed so I don’t have to worry about having babies. I really need to know if they’re okay outside all winter. Many Thanks.

Lucy on October 08, 2011:

Well I have 2 11 week old rabbits (dwarfs). This really helped me all winter and I tried to bring them in but they hated it and they were sliding on the floor and stuff. So thank you. :)!

MooMOOFootSTOP on 07/09/2011:

I don’t have a mate for my young deer so she’s having a hard winter this year. Of course we’re in the height of summer right now where it’s plus 30(c) and frozen bottled water is a GOOD thing, but when winter comes and we’re at -50(c) it becomes difficult to keep them liquid. I broke my heater twice last year due to cold snaps and I’m afraid this year will be even worse. Keeping rabbits is harder than I thought!!! The grand old Flemings are resilient, but I’m afraid they’re going to be very busy this fall/winter. CANADA KICK THE ASS! …not really.

Danielle on April 27, 2011:

Many thanks for your help. That was very helpful

Metal detector reviews on February 16, 2011:

Rabbits are my favorites… Great article.

Rebecca Mikulin (author) of Sheridan, Wyoming on February 11, 2011:

Agreed, I did the same for my bunnies over the summer and they really seem to love it… and with the temperatures we have in the summer it really is a lifesaver for them. Another thing we’ve done is spray our bunnies with water from a spray bottle in extreme heat, which seems to cool them down just fine, but doesn’t last as long as a frozen bottle.

dizzy4sam on February 11, 2011:

I’ve enjoyed the winter tips and I don’t know if anyone knows, but I’ve found that in the extreme summer heat keeping your bunnies outside can be fun if you freeze a 2 liter bottle that does that rabbit will lay next to cool it down then i just take the bottle out at night.

Rebecca Mikulin (author) of Sheridan, Wyoming on February 5, 2011:

@ogungbenro to get the water to freeze it can generally just be put in the freezer as long as it isn’t completely filled to the brim. I’m not sure where you’re from, but I live in Wyoming, so it’s the exact opposite at this time of year, which is why I had to find ways to keep the water flowing throughout the winter. Heated water bottles were by far the best option I’ve found for this.

ogungbenro azeez on February 05, 2011:

I ask how to freeze water in bottle, you didn’t give me the real answer

Silver Poet from a Midwestern writer’s computer on January 29, 2011:

The title caught my eye because I didn’t think it was possible to keep water bottles from freezing in winter. When I kept a rabbit or two, I used a heavy rabbit pot and filled it up twice a day.

methalopa on December 15, 2010:

I just love cute bunnies. I work a lot in the outdoor kitchen and love to see my bunnies running around in the garden. Yes, they are too weather sensitive.

Thanks for the rabbit health tips.

loved your post!

___________

http://www.aoak.com.au

Reese on November 17, 2010:

Thank you for all the tips. It’s all very informative and helpful. I also bought rabbits and a new rabbit hutch for outside. Rabbits are very sensitive to weather changes. You will likely suffer heat stroke. Regular monitoring is therefore required.

Muktu on October 17, 2010:

Great tips here! I’ve always been curious about keeping my rabbit outdoors. It seems like something he would enjoy, but for one reason or another it makes me nervous. Thank you for your hub.

mrfluffy from Northamptonshire on October 05, 2010:

Thank you for giving me some ideas and good advice

My buck is the real outdoor bunny, I tried to bring him in when we had the heavy rain he didn’t like it one bit. After a few adjustments to his stable/bungalow (yes, it’s a big one!) he’s happily back outside. We insulated and waterproofed the coop better than it was and added some solid sides to the spout. I need to do something about the water bottle, although I haven’t figured that out yet.

Many Thanks

If you are new to animal husbandry and want to start with something small and simple, then raising rabbits for profit is a piece of cake.

Rabbits are versatile creatures to raise on your homestead. They are easy to care for, relatively inexpensive to raise and of course reproduce quickly.

Aside from their adorable twitching noses, rabbits can turn a profit in many different ways.

While one source of income may not add up to a profit to brag about, the combination of all of the following may just be a new business venture for you.

1. Sell rabbit meat

Rabbit meat is a common meat in many different cultures around the world. However, in the United States, it has not gained the popularity it deserves.

The white meat produced by the rabbit is exceptionally lean. It has fewer calories, less fat and more protein. The only downside is that rabbit meat has higher cholesterol levels, which may not be good for cardiovascular disease.

Rabbit meat tastes very similar to chicken, with a slightly stronger flavor – but not too much. But don’t take our word for it, try these rabbit recipes to see for yourself.

So if you want to eat healthier meat, consider rabbit—not to mention that you can substitute rabbit for chicken in almost any recipe.

That being said, rabbit meat can be difficult to find in local restaurants and grocery stores unless they are upscale establishments.

Raising rabbits for meat is a fairly simple production that you can start if you have the time and space. It can be very lucrative, especially if you plan to grass-raise your rabbits and market your product as grass-fed rather than pens-raised.

Where to Process Your Meat Rabbits:

Once your rabbits are old enough to be processed, usually around 12 weeks, you must process them according to the regulations in force in your country.

Rabbits are considered “poultry” in most meat processing situations, so many of the rules that apply to chickens also apply to rabbits. However, you may have to dig around and ask a ton of questions about what’s okay and what will result in a fine.

There are two ways to process your rabbits

Yourself On Your Farm – Watch How To Butcher A Rabbit At A USDA Inspected Facility

Where you process your rabbits depends on how many rabbits you anticipate processing and where you will sell the rabbit meat.

Who to sell your rabbit meat to:

Once your meat is processed, you should get it to the consumer as soon as possible. Here is a list of ideas where to sell your rabbit meat:

friends and family

farmers markets

High end or local restaurants

Super Market

Online (lots of extra bureaucracy here as you may be selling across state lines)

Dog owners who consume raw dog food

Commercial dog food companies

Possible profit:

Rabbit is considered a delicacy and the price you can get per pound certainly reflects that.

You can probably charge around $6 a pound for your rabbit meat. It doesn’t matter if you sell it for human consumption or as dog food. Rabbit is in high demand, so you can ask what it’s worth… and probably get it.

2. Sell rabbit skins

Of course, after you’ve processed a rabbit into meat, the skin is a by-product, if you will. Instead of throwing away that part of the bunny, you can turn it into something beautiful that many crafters would love to have in their studio.

Rabbit skins are often used to make clothing, dolls, and other goodies. If you are artistic, you can create your own masterpieces and sell them to consumers.

Tanning rabbit skins can be a tedious process, but with care and practice it can become easier to complete. You can learn to make the fur yourself, or hire someone to do it for you – remember, outsourcing will eat into your profit margins!

Who to sell rabbit skins to:

commercial industry

resident

Handyman

Possible profit:

Now, I never said you would make a lot of money from your rabbit pelts and some prefer to throw away the by-product rather than try to market and sell it.

Rabbit pelts can fetch anywhere from $1.50 to $30.00 per pelt. What you get for your coat depends on several factors, such as:

rabbit breed

age of the rabbit

Tanner’s ability

coat color

size of the fur

Other preparation factors (colored, patterned, etc.)

3. Sell rabbit fur as fiber

Rabbit fur is a luxury item for artisans and commercial businesses looking to create a soft, silky product.

Instead of the entire tanned skin, rabbit fur is shorn or hand-plucked from long-haired rabbits such as the Angora rabbit.

If you want to make a profit off rabbits but don’t have the heart to use them for meat, you could start shearing your angora rabbits and make a few bucks off this luxury fiber.

In general, raising rabbits is a relatively easy task for those interested in animal husbandry. However, the Angora rabbit requires a little more care than a New Zealand rabbit (which is typically raised for meat).

If you want beautiful fibers, you have to take care of them almost every day. Long haired rabbit breeds tend to become matted if not properly cared for and this can be painful for the rabbit and increase the risk of disease and parasites.

Who to sell rabbit fiber to:

Etsy

flea markets

Handyman

Knitters, fiber artists, spinners

wool mills

yarn shops

Possible profit:

You can sell angora fiber for around $7 an ounce, all the way up to $16 or more. Again, there are a few factors that determine what you can charge and what consumers are willing to pay. Factors like:

Hand picking (better than shearing!)

rabbit breed

age of the rabbit

coat color

4. Sale of ready-to-use fertilizer with rabbit manure

Rabbit manure is a super powerful fertilizer as it is high in nitrogen and can be applied directly to plants without the risk of burning vegetation.

So instead of having to wait months for fertilizer from other animals, you can use nutrient-rich rabbit manure right away!

Who to sell rabbit dung to:

gardener

hobby farmers

landscaping company

Possible profit:

I’ve seen rabbit dung go from $0 to $45 for a 40 pound bag. Now some people pay more if the manure has been aged or composted with worms (see below). It also depends on your location and supply and demand.

So, while most give it away for free because they just want to get rid of it, others make a murder of their rabbit’s poop (the $45 price tag is NOT the norm).

5. Build a worm farm with rabbit dung

If you want to get every last ounce of benefit out of your rabbit farm, you can add worms to the mix.

Yes, you can use worms and vermicomposting not only to compost manure and keep odors down, but also as another potential revenue stream.

Who to sell worms to:

Since you will be using worms like Nightcrawler, you can use them for:

fisherman

bait shops

People using compost bins

Possible profit:

I bet you never thought you could make extra money collecting worms from your manure pile, but it’s true!

You can sell earthworms, Nightcrawlers, for about $31 a pound. Keep in mind, though, that worms don’t weigh much, so getting a pound of Wriggler…and a lot of poop can take time.

If you fish, you know that worms don’t come cheap. Many bait shops charge $2 per dozen, and you can too.

6. Sell rabbits as pets

You can always sell your rabbits as breeders or pets to those who just want a fluffy bunny to spend their time with.

You can check with local pet stores if they are looking for a regular supplier of bunnies. Just remember, pet stores need to make a profit on your buns, so don’t expect to pay more than $15 a bunny.

Also, pet shops usually don’t care what breed your rabbit is (mixed or purebred), so it doesn’t matter if your Flemish Giant won first place at the local fair and their babies are worth $80. They’ll want to give you $10.

On the other hand, if you time your marketing properly (cough, cough, Easter, and carnival time), you can sell your live rabbits for anywhere from $20 to $100, depending on the purpose and quality of your stock.

4-Her are a great customer because they want to learn animal husbandry and buy the winning rabbit. And I promise you, no matter how much money you make from your bunnies, watching a kid choose their new pet is absolutely priceless.

7. Sell pinkies

This source of income may make you feel a little squeamish, but if you want to add another one to your list, you might consider selling newborn kits to snake owners and pet stores.

You don’t have to take live kits to the pet store if you don’t want to; You can simply sell the ones that didn’t survive from your last kindling (litter of rabbits).

In a large rabbit hutch there are often stillborn babies and deer who do not care for their young. Litters that are too large often suffer from the chicks not having enough milk for all their kindling.

If you notice a lifeless hatchling, you can freeze it while it hasn’t been long dead and sell it once you’ve had enough… but check back often because nobody wants a lazy pinky.

Who to sell Pinkies to:

owners of snakes

pet shops

Possible profit:

About $3 per pinkie.

By now you should realize that there are many ways to raise rabbits for profit. And you could even combine a few and generate multiple streams of income. Who can say no to that?

So if you want to get started, do your homework first and check out our rabbit hutch plans to see which one suits you. Before you start raising rabbits profitably, read our rabbit care guide and familiarize yourself with the most common types of rabbit diseases.

The physical safety of your rabbits is vital due to the risk posed by predators. Therefore, providing safe housing is an excellent way to protect rabbits from snakes.

Build a sturdy wooden stall as this will be significantly more difficult for predators to reach. You must also remove any hiding spots for snakes such as plants and bushes near your rabbit hutch. The best way to protect rabbits from snakes is to house them indoors.

Snakes are obligate carnivores and will eat any meat, including rabbits. Larger snakes like boas and pythons can easily swallow an adult rabbit. Rattlesnakes and other venomous snakes also pose a serious threat to rabbits, especially rabbit kits. If you keep your rabbits outside, you need to take steps to keep snakes out of their coop.

How to protect rabbits from snakes

Your rabbit hutch is a major attraction for snakes as it provides easy access to food, shelter, and water. However, snakes and rabbits can never live together peacefully. Rabbits, especially rabbit kits, are easy meals for snakes. The safety of your pet rabbit depends on a few factors such as:

The kind of snake that lurks around your rabbit hutch

The location of your rabbit hutch

The durability and safety of the stable

Consider keeping your rabbit indoors

Rabbits are traditionally kept outside in a pen because we are so used to seeing wild rabbits hopping around in the wild. This leads owners to believe that even pet rabbits need to be kept outside. Here are some factors that caretakers need to consider:

Only during the day. Only keep rabbits outside during the day as there is less risk of predators. However, you must remember that rabbits can easily die of shock at the mere sight of a snake, fox or neighborhood cat.

. Only keep rabbits outside during the day because a . However, you must remember that rabbits can easily die of shock at the mere sight of a snake, fox or neighborhood cat. Survival Skills . Domestic rabbits don’t have the same skills and instincts as wild rabbits. Rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain, and these skills allow them to survive predators in the wild. Domestic rabbits don’t do well in extreme conditions, isolation, and surprises from predators.

. Domestic rabbits don’t have the same skills and instincts as wild rabbits. Rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain, and these skills allow them to . Domestic rabbits don’t do well in extreme conditions, isolation, and surprises from predators. Robust stable. If you can’t keep your rabbits indoors, proper preparation, care, and a sturdy hutch can keep predators at bay.

The right housing to protect rabbits from snakes

A stable wooden hutch offers the best protection against predators such as snakes.

Wire cages are a popular choice but are not strong enough to protect rabbits outdoors. A hungry predator looking to chase your rabbits can easily break into a wire cage.

You can protect your rabbit’s sleeping quarters with a strong wooden floor. The outdoor area can be secured with two chicken wire and a wooden wall. For barns with wooden floors it is advisable to use ½ inch x 1 inch welded wire.

Make sure the coop is easily accessible for feeding and cleaning. You can incorporate a collection container into your design. A drip tray can be pulled out at the bottom of the stall, making cleaning easier.

To keep snakes away from your rabbit, make sure the hutch is not directly on the ground. Raise the hutch about 2-3 feet off the ground and secure the bottom of the hutch with a sturdy wooden deck. Attach your rabbit hutch to the side of a building, such as a building. B. your barn or your house.

Before building your rabbit hutch

Make sure your rabbit hutch is in a shady spot where it is well protected from the sun. Heat and sun exposure are among the biggest threats to outdoor rabbits.

Rabbits are very sensitive to heat and prone to dehydration. Keeping a coop in direct sunlight can be harmful to your health.

You should also protect your rabbit hutch from wind and rain. Rabbits are prone to pneumonia, so make sure their hutch is in a protected area to keep them comfortable. If your rabbit hutch has wire sides, placing curtains on the outside, especially in cold and windy weather, can protect the rabbits.

Fresh air is vital for rabbits. So always remember to leave at least one side of the coop uncovered for ventilation.

Additional tips for protecting rabbits from snakes

If you have a wooden coop and need extra protection from snakes, consider the following tips:

Cover any openings in your rabbit hutch. Use wood spatula to patch any holes or gaps in the wood portion of the coop and follow the directions on any product you use. Use hardware cloth over openings larger than ¼ inch, such as B. windows, wire fences and ventilation openings.

Use wood spatula to patch any holes or gaps in the wood portion of the coop and follow the directions on any product you use. Use hardware cloth over openings larger than ¼ inch, such as B. windows, wire fences and ventilation openings. Eliminate hiding spots for snakes. Mow your grass short and trim any plants or bushes on the sides of the hutch.

Mow your grass short and trim any plants or bushes on the sides of the hutch. clean up leftovers. Doing this regularly will prevent the coop from attracting snakes or vermin.

. Doing this regularly will prevent the coop from attracting snakes or vermin. Use a non-toxic snake repellent. Placing a snake repellent around the rabbit hutch can deter snakes from approaching your rabbits.

What Types of Snakes Eat Rabbits?

Snakes are carnivores, meaning they only eat meat, including rabbits. Many think that all snakes use venom to kill their prey, but this is not true. Only vipers, cobras and other related species use venom when hunting. Most snakes swallow their prey whole.

According to National Geographic, snakes can eat animals 75 to 100% larger than themselves. Snakes have been known to eat cows and crocodiles, not to mention rabbits. However, some snakes have specialized diets, such as B. Snakes of the genus Dasypeltis, which feed exclusively on eggs.

The type of animals snakes eat varies from species to species. While some eat warm-blooded animals like rabbits, others choose only insects, reptiles, fish, and eggs. What snakes eat also depends on the size of the snake, with smaller snakes preying on insects and larger species preying on rabbits, deer, and alligators.

Snakes often target animals weaker than them, which is why some species of snakes only attack young rabbits. It’s helpful to know the type of snakes that are endemic to your area. While some snakes can be potentially dangerous to rabbits, others can be completely harmless.

name of the snake Where are they found? Diet as they hunt the garter snake in North America

Found in woods, fields, woods and lawns

Never far from the water Anything that can overwhelm them

Rodents (eg, mice, rabbits), snails, lizards, earthworms, leeches, amphibians, minnows, and aquatic animals typically hunt in the late afternoon or early evening

Hunt when it’s warm

Use different hunting techniques like ambush, scouting and cranes

Their saliva is mildly toxic to smaller prey

Immobilize your prey with sharp teeth and quick reflexes

Small prey is immediately swallowed alive Gopher snake North America (Western Canada,

Mexico, southern and western United States) gophers, rabbits, kangaroo rats, mice, rats, ground squirrels and voles

birds and eggs

Frogs (Swamp Snakes)

Younger snakes eat insects and lizards. Often hunt on the ground, underground, in trees and bushes

Change hunting grounds quickly

A gopher snake that hunts in a burrow today may be eating eggs in a tree tomorrow

Catch Any Prey Quickly Kingsnakes From Southeast Canada to Southern Ecuador Rodents (e.g. rabbits and mice), lizards, eggs, birds and other snakes (including venomous snakes) Opportunistic hunters

Kill by constriction

May resemble coral snakes but is non-venomous Rattlesnakes From southwest Canada to central Argentina Small rabbits, ground squirrels, rats and mice and lizards Venomous

Swallow their prey whole without chewing

The size of the prey depends on its own size and ability to eat it

They hunt by striking rather than trying to hold their prey

Most small prey items are instantly stunned Burmese pythons from the tropical South and Southeast Asia

Invasive species in Florida Everglades Rats, rabbits and poultry

Large pythons can hunt pigs, goats, and even alligators and deer. They prefer elevated and near-edge habitats (Source: Journal of Herpetology).

) Commonly found near human habitation due to abundance or vermin

Kill by Constriction Southern Black Racer Southeastern United States Rodents, moles, small snakes, frogs, eggs, lizards, insects and birds They kill by crushing their prey into the ground

They wait for prey in dry leaves and bushes

Excellent climbers

Fairly fast Brown snake Australia Snails, earthworms, nudibranchs, grubs, beetles and small salamanders Highly toxic to humans, livestock and other animals

Slightly alarming and may bite when threatened

Their range extends into northern New England and southern Michigan. Small rodents such as mice, rats, voles and chipmunks

May also eat frogs, lizards, birds and bird eggs. Killing by biting with teeth and lacing

More active at night

Prefer warmer climates

Rising temperatures due to climate change have increased rat snake activity, particularly in Texas and other warmer regions (Source: Journal of Thermal Biology)

Do rabbits kill snakes?

When reading about snakes and their hunting techniques, you might think that a small mammal like a rabbit doesn’t stand a chance against a snake.

However, rabbits have keen senses of smell, hearing, and sight that help them protect themselves and their nests from danger.

If a rabbit senses a nearby predator, it will break free on the spot and camouflage itself with the landscape. Of course, because of their impaired senses, pet rabbits have a much lower chance of escaping or surviving an attack by a predator.

Sure rabbits can defend themselves, but can they kill snakes? Rabbits can’t kill snakes. However, some wild rabbits have been found to attack snakes, causing the latter to flee for their lives.

Rabbits may seem shy animals, but some may surprise you. This is especially true of mother rabbits, who are intensely protective of their young. Rabbit kits are weak, slow, and unable to see until nearly a week after birth. During this time they are easy prey for snakes.

Looking for an affordable fertilizer with great benefits? Look no further than the nearest rabbit hutch. Rabbits are small animals that you can keep almost anywhere, and they produce tons of wonderful, nutritious fertilizer at a great price.

Rabbit manure comes in dry, compact pellets that are easy to process. Rabbit manure has more nutrients than other livestock waste, such as chicken or horse poo. It doesn’t have a strong odor, so it’s a great option for urban neighborhoods.

Rabbits are the ultimate urban farm animal because they are so uncomplicated and adaptable. It doesn’t take a lot of space or money to start raising.

My cousin lives in a townhouse in the city and her daughter has a pet rabbit. Her townhouse has fabulous windows and she has lots of beautiful tropical plants, all of which benefit from a supplement of rabbit manure.

I, on the other hand, live on a farm. I raise my rabbits in stacked pens in a pen in my goat pen. This protects them from predators and bad weather. In summer I let them out in rabbit tractors to enjoy the sun and grass.

Whether you live in the city or in the country, a rabbit and its pellet-sized fertilizer (what we like to call rabbit honey) can benefit your plants and gardens.

What’s so great about rabbit manure?

Photo via Ame Vanorio

Rabbit dung is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. It doesn’t burn plants like some fertilizers because it breaks down quickly. Rabbit manure is dry and does not contain as much ammonia or uric acid as many other fertilizers such as cow and pig manure.

Fresh rabbit manure contains approximately 2% nitrogen, 1% phosphorus and 1% potassium. The condensed pellets actually have twice the nutrients of chicken manure and four times the nutrients of horse manure.

In addition to the three major nutrients, rabbit pellets contain many macro and micro nutrients. The elements calcium, sulfur, magnesium, boron, zinc, copper, manganese and cobalt are all present.

This means giving your plants a well-rounded fertilizer that will benefit them in multiple ways. Using rabbit manure will increase the nutrients in your garden and add important texture and crumb to your soil.

How do you use rabbit manure?

Use fresh from the pen

Rabbit manure can be applied directly from the stable. Unlike other cattle manure, rabbit droppings won’t burn your plants, so it’s safe to spread while the plants are growing.

I like to bury mine so it doesn’t attract flies. A great way to add honey to your rabbit is to make a furrow next to a row of newly transplanted vegetables. Fill the furrow with rabbit manure and cover with an inch of soil.

This will keep flies from being attracted to your garden and the worms will be eager to help with the decomposition.

Creating a furrow of rabbit manure adds nutrients to your plants as they grow. In addition, it continues to improve the soil of your garden. You can also put a handful of pellets in the hole when transplanting.

Also, whenever you clear out a bed, you should clear out the rabbit hutches at the same time. If you’re a fan of square foot gardening, Mel Bartholomew suggests adding a little fertilizer when you remove one plant and add another.

Compost your rabbit manure

Rabbit manure does well in a compost pile. It breaks down quickly and adds a lot of nutrients. This encourages microbial activity and helps break down the more fibrous things like straw or grass clippings in your pile.

Another benefit of putting rabbit poo in the compost bin is that it is dry and therefore odorless. It works well in smaller, compact composters.

Rabbit manure has a C/N ratio of 12, use our handy compost calculator to get the right combination with your rabbit manure.

Green mulch

Rabbit pellets are ideal for green mulching. Scatter them around your garden, around fruit trees and in flower beds. They break down and give the soil a nutrient boost. Bob Bennet, author of the classic book Storey’s Guide To Raising Rabbits, sprinkled his rabbit dung around his roses. As it turned out, not only did he breed national champion rabbits, but he also bred award-winning roses!

compost tea

Rabbit poo in your compost tea is another fabulous way to make fertilizer.

To prepare a rabbit compost tea:

Place 2 cups of rabbit feces in a 5 gallon bucket.

Fill the bucket with water. Put a lid on the bucket.

Place in a warm, sunny spot.

Stir once or twice a day.

Allow the rabbit feces to dissolve over a period of 3-5 days.

After it disintegrates, it will not completely dissolve and you can pour it directly on your plants.

vermicompost

Rabbit dung is great in the worm box. Your rabbit feces along with spilled alfalfa food is a nutritious hodgepodge for your worms. They, in turn, will complete the decomposition process and reward you with the best organic compost ever!

In fact, rabbits and worms make a fantastic team. You can take this to the next level and put your vermicomposting bins to work right under your rabbit hutches.

Red wigglers are the best worms for this. Aim for 250 red wigglers per square foot of trash space.

How to create a worm bin under a rabbit hutch

If you have an elevated rabbit hutch, you can make an ingenious setup that will make working with rabbit manure in a worm bin easier. You will need a stall that is about 3 feet off the ground. The floor of the enclosure should have an area of ​​1/2 inch wire mesh flooring to allow the droppings to fall through.

You don’t want the entire base to be wire – your bunnies will need a nest box or sleeping pad with a solid bottom so the bunny has a draft-free area and a place to get out of the wire.

Build a wooden box at least a foot deep under the stall. In the base of your worm bin, add a 4 inch layer of carbon materials. Use things like decaying leaves, peat, shredded paper products, old hay or straw.

Dampen the material, mix in an inch of rabbit manure, and dampen again. This helps create the right environment for the worms. Put your worms in the trash can, put the trash can under the coop and watch the magic happen.

How many rabbits do you need?

You’re probably wondering how many rabbits you need to have enough fertilizer for your garden areas. Probably not as many as you might think. Rabbits are little poop machines.

A large breed rabbit like a New Zealand can poop half a pound of crap every day. That adds up and would equate to around £14 a month.

Earn extra money

If you decide to raise rabbits as a child’s 4H project or as a side income, then you would be rolling in rabbit honey. A colony of 10 rabbits can produce 40-60 pounds of crap per week, depending on the breed. You could even sell rabbit dung to other gardeners.

Because they don’t have a strong smell and are easy to handle, rabbit manure is a great side hustle. Fill 3 gallon buckets while you clean up after your bunnies. You can then sell the rabbit pellets to gardeners or maybe trade them for something. Rabbit dung is a valuable commodity.

Designing rabbit hutches for catching manure

There are several ways you can house your rabbits. Many professionals hang wire cages from the ceiling. This can cause the pellets to fall off and fall to the ground.

However, if they fall to the ground, you will need to filter out the dirt and litter on the ground from your pellets. A more back-friendly option is to tie a long tarp under the wire cages, making the tarp taller at one end.

In this way the pellets roll down the tarpaulin chute and into a waiting bucket. Then it’s easy to pick up the bucket and throw the poo on the compost heap or in the garden.

Planning on keeping a rabbit or two as pets? You could go with a beautiful backyard wooden hutch instead. In keeping with the wood design, you can build a poop ramp to funnel the aftermath.

Under your coop, install a wooden ramp that is the same width as your coop. Put barriers on the sides to keep droppings from falling off the ramp. Then just let the crap roll down the ramp and into a bucket.

The bottom line on rabbit manure

Rabbits make a great livestock or pet for those with limited space and budgets. They are easy to grow and – as the old joke goes – they breed quickly.

The best thing about rabbits isn’t that they’re easy to train or that they’re cute and cuddly. Rabbits produce the best manure ever!

If you’ve heard a rabbit cry, you know how disturbing it sounds. It’s the kind of noise that sticks in your memory but is hard to put into words. A rabbit’s crying is sometimes likened to a whimper, a grunt, or even a yell.

Rabbits cry when they are in pain, frightened, or about to die. Also, baby rabbits (kits) will cry when they are starving. Although rabbits make crying sounds, they do not produce tears. If your rabbit’s eyes are watery or crying, they may have dental disease, allergies, or an infection.

Rabbits don’t usually make crying noises when they’re sad or lonely. They are more likely to withdraw and stop grooming. So when caring for your rabbit, pay close attention to their behavior, not just the noises they make.

Why do rabbits cry?

Rabbits cry for four different reasons. These include:

Extreme hunger – This really only applies to baby rabbits.

This really only applies to baby rabbits. Fear – Rabbits may squeal in fear when they see a predator, or they may be taken by surprise. Extreme fear makes rabbits cry because they think they are going to die.

Rabbits can cry out in fear if they are surprised. Extreme fear makes rabbits cry because they think they are going to die. Pain – Rabbits will sometimes whine and cry when they are in pain. For example, urinary tract disorders can cause rabbits to cry when urinating.

Rabbits sometimes whimper and cry when they are in pain. For example, urinary tract disorders can cause rabbits to cry when urinating. Death Approaches – Rabbits are more likely to “scream” when approaching death. But some owners say they heard a faint whimpering noise before their rabbit died.

So rabbits tend to cry when there is a physiological emergency.

Do rabbits cry tears?

Rabbits don’t produce tears when they cry. It’s true that rabbits have tear ducts in their lower eyelids, and the tear ducts help drain excess moisture from their eyes.

However, there is no evidence that rabbits cry when they are hungry, scared or in pain. They also don’t cry when they experience other emotions like loneliness.

A rabbit’s eyes should be clean and glassy. If your rabbit’s eyes are wet and dirty, or the fur under their eyes is damp, this is more of a medical issue than an emotional one. Your rabbit probably has a condition called “weepy eye.”

Is rabbit crying the same as human crying?

Rabbit crying is not exactly the same as human crying. As previously mentioned, rabbits don’t produce tears when they cry, while humans usually do.

In addition, rabbits scream in response to physiological emergencies (hunger, pain, fear, death). Humans do this too, but human crying is often triggered by emotions (joy, sadness, loneliness, etc.).

That’s not to say rabbits aren’t emotional. Suffice it to say that the rabbit’s crying is not necessarily indicative of whether a rabbit is feeling sad, lonely, depressed, etc. Instead, the rabbit’s crying is a sign that your rabbit is in dire need of assistance.

How do rabbit screaming noises sound?

Rabbits are vocal animals, so it can be difficult to distinguish between different sounds. In truth, rabbit noises can “get lost in translation” because different owners describe them in different ways.

Rabbits “crying” could also be described as “whining” or “grunting,” and in severe cases, a cry may sound more like a “scream.”

When a baby rabbit cries, it often sounds like a sheep bleating. Crying is more common in baby rabbits than adult rabbits, so let’s examine exactly why baby rabbits cry.

Why do baby rabbits cry?

Baby rabbits (both wild and domesticated) will sometimes cry. The most common reasons for this are hunger and extreme anxiety. Crying is normal to some extent, but if it continues for a long period of time, it would be a concern.

However, you should be very careful when investigating such a situation. Interference can sometimes do more harm than good.

Baby rabbits cry when they are hungry

Baby rabbits are fed by their mothers once a day. In the wild, the mother returns towards evening to feed her babies. Likewise, a household shepherd only feeds her babies once a day.

It is normal for baby rabbits to cry just before feeding time, especially if the mother is late feeding them. But if a baby rabbit cries continuously throughout the day, this indicates that he is very hungry.

In the wild, mother rabbits are sometimes killed, leaving the babies orphaned. In this case, the babies can cry and scream from hunger all day long.

Don’t immediately assume that a crying baby rabbit is hungry. Baby rabbits can die from overfeeding, so feeding a wild baby rabbit is a no-go.

How can you tell if a baby rabbit is hungry?

When a baby rabbit is dangerously hungry, his/her tummy will bruise slightly. If a rabbit has been crying for a long time and its tummy is dented, this indicates that it may be orphaned.

You can also check if a rabbit is dehydrated by gently pinching the fur on the back of its neck. If it takes several seconds for the skin to snap back into place, this suggests it’s dangerously dehydrated.

If you find a wild baby rabbit that is hungry or dehydrated, consider contacting a wildlife rehabilitation service for help. Grooming youngsters is notoriously difficult and not something you should attempt yourself.

Occasionally, a hind may shed her babies, leading to malnutrition. Because of this, it’s important to check that the mother rabbit is feeding her babies daily (but don’t force her to sit near her kittens all day).

Baby rabbits cry when they are scared

Baby rabbits can also “bleat” when they are scared. Although this sound may sound cute, it is a sign that the rabbit is extremely stressed.

Baby rabbits often bitch or cry when picked up. That’s why you should never handle a feral baby rabbit unless you have to.

Try not to touch baby rabbits for the first 8 weeks of their lives. After this time you can start, but be very careful. If you surprise them, they may start whimpering and crying.

It is best to sit next to the rabbit for a few minutes before attempting to handle it and to keep the noise to a minimum.

Stressful things that can make rabbits cry

Not only young ones scream with fear, also adult rabbits. When rabbits scream out of fear, the sound often sounds like a “scream.” Here are some of the top causes of stress in pet rabbits:

Too Regular Handling – This can sometimes happen in large families as it can be difficult to keep track of who has been handling the rabbit and for how long.

This can sometimes happen in large families as it can be difficult to keep track of who has been treating the rabbit and for how long. Improper Handling – For example, not supporting your rabbit’s spine during the lifting process.

– For example, not supporting your rabbit’s spine during the lifting process. Risk During Pregnancy – When a pregnant hind is placed in a threatening situation, she will usually begin to cry or whimper. For example, when she is put in a cage with a buck.

– When a pregnant hind is placed in a threatening situation, she usually starts crying or whimpering. For example, when she is put in a cage with a buck. Seeing a Predator – This is pretty obvious, but we sometimes forget how sensitive rabbits are to other animals and humans.

– It’s pretty obvious, but we sometimes forget how sensitive rabbits are to other animals and humans. Fireworks, loud music, or other loud noises – These can put rabbits into shock.

– These can put rabbits into shock. Temperature Changes – Rabbits often make slight “grunting” noises when they are overheated.

Do rabbits cry when they are in pain?

The screaming noises often sound like whimpers or grunts. Urinary tract disorders often cause rabbits to cry when urinating. But other conditions like arthritis, GI stasis, and infections can also cause whimpering and crying.

How to tell if your rabbit is in pain

If your rabbit is in pain from an ongoing illness, you’ll also see some of the following symptoms:

A crouched or stooped appearance

It takes longer to eat

A disheveled appearance

Teeth chattering/grinding, which indicates severe pain

If your rabbit started crying out of the blue, it may well be a sign that they are in pain.

Do rabbits cry when they die?

It’s quite common for rabbits to make noises when death is near. Sometimes rabbits “scream” on the verge of death and this sound can be very disturbing.

Although less common, some owners also report hearing a whimper or soft grunt just before a rabbit dies. For example, there have been some reports of rabbits crying for several seconds and then convulsing. In these cases, a heart attack or infection with E. cuniculi can be the cause of death.

Do rabbits cry when they are sad or lonely?

In rabbits, crying is usually an expression of fear, pain, hunger, or death. Crying isn’t usually caused by emotions like sadness, loneliness, or joy.

That’s not to say rabbits don’t get lonely. Rabbits living alone will almost certainly become lonely and depressed. Therefore, loneliness is something to look out for when keeping rabbits. When rabbits become sad and lonely, they may exhibit the following symptoms:

lethargy

Sleep more than usual

Avoid being picked up

Change in appetite (usually loss of appetite)

pull fur

Why is loneliness so dangerous in rabbits?

Rabbits live in groups in the wild and are therefore very social animals. For this reason, most animal welfare agencies strongly recommend keeping rabbits in pairs (or groups).

Just like humans, rabbits need social contact to thrive and feel comfortable. Research tells us that loneliness is a major risk factor for death in humans. This is probably the same for rabbits, so it’s important to check that your pet bunny isn’t feeling lonely.

If a rabbit becomes lonely, it can cause ongoing stress and weaken the immune system. This, in turn, exposes them to bacterial and viral infections.

So, even if your rabbit isn’t crying, don’t assume he’s fine. Check them regularly to be sure.

My rabbit looks like it’s crying

Rabbits don’t produce tears when they cry. So if your rabbit’s eyes are wet or sticky, it indicates that he is not feeling well.

Tear-stained fur is also a cause for concern, as it indicates that the tear duct may be blocked.

It’s important to consult a veterinarian in this case, as there are many causes of watery eyes – some of which are very serious.

What Causes Watery Eyes in Rabbits?

Epiphora (watery eyes) is quite common in rabbits. Excessive tears are not only annoying but can lead to more serious problems. But what causes watery eyes in rabbits? Well, according to the PDSA, there can be several causes:

Dental disease – This is probably the most common cause of epiphora in rabbits.

This is probably the most common cause of epiphora in rabbits. Infections – This can cause discharge under the eyes to turn yellow or sticky.

– This can cause the discharge under the eyes to turn yellow or sticky. Clogged Tear Ducts – Tear ducts can become clogged with small debris. This is much more common in flatter faced breeds (e.g. Lop, Dwarf, etc.)

– Tear ducts can become clogged with small debris. This is much more common in flat-faced breeds (e.g. lop, dwarf, etc.) allergies

Extra Lashes – These can rub against the inner eyelid and cause extreme aggravation.

If left untreated, “watery eye” can result in an eye ulcer that is extremely serious and often life-threatening.

What to do when a rabbit cries

Don’t ignore a rabbit’s cries. As mentioned earlier, crying is usually caused by a physiological emergency, so your help may be needed.

However, if you are caring for a feral baby rabbit, remember that some crying is normal, especially at dusk. If the crying continues for most of the day or you know the babies’ mother was killed, contact a wildlife rehabilitation center for help.

When your pet rabbit cries, it may be in pain, scared, or near death. Consider any additional symptoms and use your judgment to decide which is more likely to be the case.

Conventional wisdom has it that rabbits sleep in a hutch at night. But even small animals like rabbits like to sleep next to their owners. You will enjoy the soft bedding, warm and companionship.

Rabbits are sensitive. Your pet could be crushed or choked if you roll on it at night. Even if your rabbit is safe, it can keep you up at night by acting mischievous.

If your rabbit wants to sleep with you and can do so safely, that’s fine. If you’re willing to risk sleep, sharing a bed with a rabbit will deepen your bond. Remember, rabbits like routine. You cannot share your bed some nights and others. This will only confuse her.

Is it safe for a rabbit to sleep in a human bed?

You may find your pet sleeping on your bed during the day. Rabbits love soft furnishings and they are comforted by your smell.

Your rabbit sleeping in your bed with you at night is a little different. Rabbits are small and fragile. If you toss and turn while you sleep, you risk crushing or choking your rabbit.

If you are sure that this will not happen, you can share your bed. You just need to take precautions to rabbit proof the bedroom. The following steps are to be taken:

Make sure your rabbit is litter trained. This is to prevent nighttime accidents in or on your bed. Keeping a litter box in the room is an extra safety step. Close the door. If your rabbit goes for a walk at night, they could be in trouble. She might flee the house, meet other pets, or chew something dangerous. Place pillows on the floor around your bed so your pet will land softly if they fall off. Cover anything in the room that could be chewed or otherwise damaged. Remove all toxins from your room, such as B. Indoor plants. Avoid using room fresheners or other strong odors. Don’t smoke in your bedroom. Rabbits are often allergic to cigarette smoke. Make sure the room is a comfortable temperature for your pet. Rabbits prefer cooler temperatures than excessive heat. If you sleep with the central heating on, your rabbit will overheat. Offer your rabbit something to burrow into, such as an extra blanket. Rabbits like to simulate the experience of sleeping underground. Your pet will likely make a warm, dark nest for itself.

There is one more thing to consider. Letting a rabbit sleep in your bed sets a precedent. She will expect this treatment every night in the future.

Rabbits don’t understand states. Your pet doesn’t care that they have an early morning meeting and need a good night’s sleep. Only let your rabbit into your bed if you’re willing to make it a lasting agreement.

Why is your rabbit sleeping in bed with you?

If your rabbit insists on sleeping in your bed, try to figure out why this is happening:

Is your rabbit afraid of being alone in his hutch at night?

Is your rabbit hutch cold, drafty or in a noisy location?

Does your rabbit hutch lack the physical comforts needed for a restful night’s sleep?

Does your rabbit spend all day alone and crave company at night?

Is your rabbit not getting enough exercise? She may be wide awake and awaiting your attention.

If you can encourage your rabbit to sleep in their own hutch, it is advisable. You’ll keep them safe from possible injury and probably sleep better yourself.

Benefits of Rabbits Sharing Your Bed

The biggest benefit of sharing a bed with your rabbit is the bond you will share. Once rabbits bond with an owner, they become extremely loyal. Your rabbit will love spending time with you whether you are awake or asleep.

Sleeping with pets is also believed to benefit human health. It is claimed that the nocturnal company of animals promotes rest and reduces stress and anxiety.

You may also make your bunny much happier by allowing him to sleep with you. Some rabbits hate spending the night alone. If you can teach your rabbit to love his hutch at night, that’s ideal. If not, she’ll be grateful not to be banished when the sun goes down.

If you live alone, a rabbit will be a night watchman. Obviously a rabbit is not as fierce a protector as a dog. However, your pet will be constantly alert.

If anything unusual develops outside of your home, she will find out about it. This means you also know when you will be notified. This could add an extra layer of security when you are most vulnerable.

Disadvantages of rabbits sharing your bed

We examined the inherent physical dangers of sharing a bed with a rabbit. You must be alert and avoid physical contact. Worrying about it can keep you up at night.

Even if your pet has their own side of the bed, there are other concerns. Rabbits have slightly different hours than humans. Even when you’re ready for bed, your rabbit may disagree.

If your rabbit is still awake and lively, then entertainment awaits them. She may pinch your toes or ears while you sleep. This is a message that says, “Stop ignoring me, it’s game time.”

Even when your rabbit is enjoying itself, it might keep you awake. She can start exploring the room. If she starts climbing furniture, she might knock things over. Rabbits cannot see in the dark and have poor depth perception.

Think back to what we said about a rabbit’s alertness. If you live in a quiet area, this is an advantage. Strange noises might be worth investigating. If you live in the city, it’s different. There will be a constant stream of noise. Every time a car drives by, being nudged by a wide-eyed pet gets old fast.

Rabbits can snore. As PetMD explains, rabbits can snore even when they are awake. The cause will be an obstruction of the nasal airways. When the snoring is high, it is called stridor. A quiet, guttural snoring is called stertor.

My rabbit sleeps under my bed

Domestic rabbits and wild rabbits are very different, but both animals share similar instincts. An example is finding dark, covered places to sleep. Your pet mimics the sensation of sleeping in an underground burrow.

If your rabbit is sleeping under the bed, there is no need to worry. However, you need to step up your cleaning. Rabbit noses are sensitive to dust. Vacuum under the bed regularly. Just make sure your pet isn’t around before you start as the noise will deafen them.

If your rabbit makes a habit of sleeping under your bed, make yourself comfortable. Lay down a soft blanket. If one fits, provide a pillow as well. This makes it clear that your pet always has a safe place.

Also, do not use the space for storage. Your rabbit’s territory is now under the bed. If you keep shoes or anything else nearby, expect them to be chewed.

Why is my rabbit hiding under the bed?

Similar to sleeping, rabbits hide under the bed as it is like a burrow. As BunnyHugga explains, rabbits like a covered space with easy entry and exit.

Perhaps a more relevant question is why is your rabbit hiding? She was clearly startled by something. The slit under the bed is her safe place. She will come out when she calms down.

There are a number of reasons your rabbit may feel compelled to hide. Rabbits are nervous animals as they are a natural prey species. If your rabbit has reason to believe a predator is nearby, they will hide.

Your pet also has excellent hearing. Any loud noise will evoke a fear-based response. If you live in a busy area, she’ll hear ambulances, car horns, and loud conversations. This can lead to sensory overload and the need to take a break.

Rabbits also do not like change and are often afraid of new people. Having company can startle a loose rabbit. More often than not, your pet’s curiosity will overcome their fear. She will eventually go out to investigate.

Why is my rabbit peeing on my bed?

Your rabbit will realize that you care about your bed. After all, you go to bed every day. They also seem to spend hours at a time in bed.

When rabbits discover that something is important to a human, one thought comes to their mind – “this is mine”. As territorial animals, rabbits want to claim what you value. This includes marking their scent, and not much smells stronger than rabbit urine.

You need to train your rabbit to stop peeing on the bed. It stinks and is unsanitary, setting a dangerous precedent. Rabbits like to feel like they are the boss. Allowing her to mark that path cements that status in your pet’s memory.

Use a soft, firm “no” command, ideally while she’s on stage. Make sure you remove all traces of the scent. When it smells its own urine, your rabbit will come back and do the same thing again.

If the behavior persists, investigate the reason. Your rabbit clearly feels it is necessary to assert his dominance. Do whatever you can to calm your pet and make him feel comfortable.

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