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Conditioning Program for Pitbulls
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carvers pre-keep? – Game Dog
i was looking around the net and found this,,supposedly its maurice carvers pre-keep. MAURICE CARVER’S PRE-KEEP HOW I FEED A DOG OUT TO …
Source: game-dog.com
Date Published: 7/21/2021
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Springview Bulldogs Pre Keep | Pit Bull Chat Forum
This is taken from the Bull Terrier Times. Over the years I matched as many dogs as anyone in the history of the game in the British Isles, …
Source: www.pitbull-chat.com
Date Published: 4/25/2021
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APBT Conditioning (Old Keeps) – Go Pitbull Forums
If your dog will not empty out before the pull, insert a soda straw ¾ of the way up his rectum, and walk him lightly. Remember to get his weight …
Source: www.gopitbull.com
Date Published: 11/24/2022
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CONDITIONING
SCHOOLING A DOG by California Jack · The Game Test – California Jack · TRAINING By Fat Bill.
Source: bogchis.tripod.com
Date Published: 2/5/2022
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Game Dog – Crenshaw keep… – Facebook
his intestines, heart, lungs, and liver, you can’t put him in shape. … with water. Cook until tender and place in refrigerator when cool.
Source: www.facebook.com
Date Published: 2/10/2022
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Conditioning – Texas Gamedogs
AFTER THE MATCH – BY CALIFORNIA JACK … The Game Test by CA Jack … MAURICE CARVER’S PRE-KEEP, HOW I FEED A DOG OUT TO DETERMINE HIS FIGHTING WEIGHT.
Source: texas-gamedogs.board-directory.net
Date Published: 3/4/2022
View: 3265
carvers pre-keep?
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Springview Bulldogs Pre Keep
This is taken from the Bull Terrier Times.
Over the years I have brought together more dogs than ever before in the history of the game in the British Isles and have seen over those years all the top conditioners that have competed, some that were well known and others, who weren’t. In that time I’ve seen dogs conditioned to be shot and some that weren’t. I’ve seen dogs conditioned on mills, bicycles, cars, motorcycles, jogging, and a hundred other methods. Some were in great shape and some weren’t. During this time I have devised my own methods of getting a dog in shape for a match and have used these methods with some success, having never hit a dog for being out of shape. They either quit or got hit by a better dog.
In the course of time I also successfully mediated dogs for other kennels. I have always felt that training is just as important, if not more important, than training itself and I have seen many dogs ruined by inexperienced owners before it was time to walk them. Most dogmen seem to think that once a show is made or a losing game is placed, they have to put as much work into a dog as possible in a mad rush. When the real key to success is taking it slow and easy. I believe a dog should be at its show weight when a match is made. This allows the Pre-Keep to be used for its intended purpose, which is cleaning out the dog. That means it should be free of all internal and external parasites and, more importantly, free of all internal fat, which almost all canine males are not.
When a dog gets tired and dehydrated during a game, their veins and arteries shrink, and as their heart pumps blood and oxygen through their body, it becomes increasingly difficult when the path is blocked by fat. If the dog can’t get its oxygen fast enough, it will either “explode” or quit. The same thing happens with rabbit coursing, except they pull up or “tuck away,” and it happens to working terriers when they’re not fit. You end up digging for a dead dog, attributing the cause of death to suffocation when the real cause is obese or unhealthy dogs. Before a dog or athlete can be put into any shape for any competition, it must first be trimmed of all excess fat, both inside and out. In the past, a dog was mentally tricked or cleaned, which only showed the lack of understanding on the part of these people.
It is much easier to start any type of conditioning with a healthy dog. That’s just common sense telling you that. But unfortunately, it’s something a lot of dog men don’t have. If you feel that your dog is ready to compete or that he is ready to enter some type of competition such as B. weight lifting, flirt pole etc. then you need to find your dog’s best weight. This takes a really experienced eye and I’ve seen few that can tell a dog’s true weight. Most tend to be too difficult to match them. Once you have decided on the best weight, do your best to show your dog and then slowly bring him down to that weight. If your dog is a forty pound dog, he should never weigh over forty-five pounds or at most forty-seven pounds. If you have sporting dogs, they need to be kept in good shape. It’s not good to have a 40 lb dog with 50 lbs of “lard” and then expect to get him up to his show weight in six weeks. That doesn’t work in good competition. Once you’ve got the dog up to around their weight it’s time to start looking for a match and this is where the real conditioning happens.
I like to exercise a dog for at least a month and this applies to a dog that may have been hand walked for several months previously, up to five or ten miles daily. During that time he would have been dewormed every two months and I would have gotten him at least ten weeks before a show. The first thing I would do is actually weigh the dog and check their weight and then deworm the dog with a multi-dewormer such as Ivomec injection or Panicur emulsion. I would also bathe the dog with an insecticidal shampoo. I deworm the dog every two weeks to two weeks before the show. If a dog is at or near its show weight I will give the dog a minimum of two weeks notice, but if I am working the dog for another party I will give it a four week notice.
I start the coop by walking the dog for an hour each day and if possible I want the dog to be free to roam which will give him plenty of exercise. After each day’s work, I rub the dog for 15 minutes and then give him freshly boiled water to drink. I then pack him up and feed him an hour later. During maintenance I only feed fresh ground beef and only 8 ounces for the first week and give a mineral/vitamin supplement. Sometimes a dog’s weight can drop below their show weight, but that’s not a problem as it will come back if you change their diet.
The second week I increase the walking to an hour and a half and increase the feed to twelve ounces. I always leave water for the dog and only remove it at night. That way my dog is empty when I work him. If you work your dogs at night, remove the water around dinnertime or at least six hours before you plan to work the dog.
For the past two weeks I’ve been walking the dog two hours a day, just hand walking and feeding it a pound of fresh ground beef. At the end of this last two weeks, your dog will be clean of all excess fat both outside and inside his body and ready for a full grooming. It’s much easier to condition a dog that has been kept healthy and exercised regularly without getting “pork fat” between games. There is no need to allow a dog to get “pork bacon” and it is unhealthy for your dog to become so. Remember that a gun dog is the ultimate dog handler and must be treated as such. When have you ever seen an athlete put on five stones between races? A pound of weight in a dog is equal to an ounce in a wild rooster and a stone in a human. The more weight you have on your dog, the harder it will be to take it off. If you don’t remove that body fat before you start working your dog then it’s just going to be tough and although your dog looks in great shape it certainly won’t be. His heart and other organs will have a layer of fat that will weigh a few pounds. This gives your opponent a pull on the weights and leaves your dog in the Heart Attack class, that is, if he doesn’t “explode” or stop first.
How many times have I conditioned dogs for other people and allowed them to do the match and then I’ve put the dog through a proper pre-check only for them to call me and say their dog is too easy, which never really is was. The dog was simply his true weight and they had not matched his true weight. Many times I have been asked to condition a dog that has been previously weight adjusted to a specific show weight. But when I conditioned the dog, say for a 34 pound match, I found that in my hands he was only a 31 or 32 pound dog. A pound or two in a match can certainly win or lose it for you. If you can get a dog in peak condition naturally, you have a huge advantage over the steroid conditioner.
The key to success with dogs is the food bowl and conditioning. It also helps if you have a wild dog. Far too much emphasis is placed on complete feeds such as Febo, Purina, Iams etc. and too little natural feed is fed. I mix my own feeds for the dogs and don’t feed them complete meals at all. I feed a variety of meats with grains and grains, lots of fruit and veg and my dogs are just as fit as everyone else. If your dog’s weight falls below his show weight, add a few ounces to the food. I like to take my dog a pound or so below his show weight and then leave him there for a week. That way his body will use up all the fat that’s stored on his body and then you can start conditioning him and build him up to his show weight. If you strip a dog out this way and then build it back up, he’ll be a lot stronger and will be a lot bigger in the ring than his opponent. You can’t take a fat dog and start working him down to his show weight without first cleaning him up. If you don’t strip them inside, you’ll have a dog that’s over his true show weight and at a disadvantage before he even matches.
The best pre-keeps last at least six months, and if you’ve been working a dog for a show for that long, keeping him lean and fit, all your hard work will be done once you’ve hooked him up. Then you can reduce his feed a bit and clean him out and he’s ready for some serious work
Springview Bulldogs
Law-dictionary Explaining the Rise, Progress and Present State of the …
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Legal dictionary explaining the rise, progress, and present state of the … Bởi Thomas Edlyne Tomlins
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