Gel Wood Stain Uk? Trust The Answer

Are you ready to update wooden furniture, paneling, doors or even flooring? With Stain you can change the color of your existing piece of wood and enhance or hide the grain of wood products depending on the desired result. Wood staining takes time and patience, but the job is a lot easier if you choose the right product. Comparing gel and liquid stains will help you figure out which option is best for your next wood project.

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What is the difference between a gel and a liquid stain Credit: efetova/iStock/GettyImages See more photos

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Gel Stain Basics

Gelfleck takes on a gel texture until you shake it, causing it to liquify. Yellow stains give the wood an even color without lifting the wood grain. They are hard wearing and long lasting and work well on wood surfaces that have been painted once. Gel patches often come in traditional colors.

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Gel mordant is usually oil based with a thick consistency and high viscosity. The thickness means the stain won’t spatter or run, keeping your work area cleaner. It also covers porous and non-porous surfaces equally, making application easier for beginners. Despite this thickness, gel stains dry quickly, which keeps your project moving. Have mineral spirits on hand to clean up the gel stain.

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Liquid Stain Basics

Liquid stains are typically water-based and will soak into the wood when you apply the paint. They clean up easily with soapy water and dry quickly on your projects. You may notice that liquid stains come in a much wider variety of colors and shades than oil-based stains. Some of the colors are more contemporary, giving you more creative freedom in your projects.

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Water-based stains eliminate the strong odor you get with oil-based products, making them easier to work with. In addition, they are more environmentally friendly. The top coat of liquid stain is clear. Like oil stains, liquid stains are very durable.

project type

The choice between gel and liquid stain often depends on the project you are doing. Yellow stain works well on non-porous woods like masonite and hardboard because it doesn’t enhance the wood grain. Gel stains also work well on fiberglass and metal and for use on vertical surfaces. Gel stains are not good for pine, birch, or cherry because the swirly texture encourages stains. Do not use gel stains on projects with many corners, details, and crevices as stains will accumulate in these areas.

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Liquid stains work best on furniture, cabinets, moldings, hardwood floors, doors, and porous surfaces where you want to accentuate the wood grain. Porous woods such as mahogany, walnut, ash and oak look best when applied with liquid stain to bring out the character and grain of the wood.

application tips

Both types of stain must be stirred vigorously before application. Test the stain on a piece of scrap wood or an inconspicuous area before you begin staining. Sanding the wood first will allow the stain to apply smoothly and evenly. Spot in a ventilated area and wear a face mask and gloves to protect yourself.

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You can use either a brush or a rag to apply both types of stains. Using a rag gives you more control over stain penetration. Rub the rag in a circular direction after applying the stain, then wipe off the rest. If you use a liquid stain, wipe it off quickly for an even finish as liquid stains dry quickly. Always wipe the stain in the direction of the wood grain. Read the instructions for your specific stain carefully, and consider temperature and humidity before beginning your project.

While Gel Stain can be applied to an existing surface, it was originally developed for bare wood surfaces. We prefer to apply the gel stain over a mineral spirits smear coat rather than a top coat as shown in this video How to Apply Gel Stain to Raw Wood http://bit.ly/1WwDUQ1

The sliding layer reduces air resistance and helps the stain “glide” more easily. The other important technique shown in this video is to apply the stain generously in sections and quickly remove the excess. Gel Stain is so pigmented that if you try to blot it up with a dry rag, you’ll get an uneven application.

Applying over a coat of top coat is acceptable, but there are two major advantages to applying the stain directly to the wood or over a sliding coat.

1) The beauty of the grain is highlighted. This effect is greatly reduced when the stain is applied to an existing surface.

2) Fewer coats are required to get a dark color.

The preparation and application techniques, as well as the drying time between coats, are all different when applying Gel Stain to bare wood compared to an existing finish.

Dry time differences:

http://bit.ly/TZTLwL

HOW TO APPLY YELLOW MARKING TO FINISHED WOOD | VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

Happy Tuesday! Can you believe it’s already November?!

To kick off the month, I’m sharing how Gel Stains can save you time, money, and effort…while updating ANY existing wood surface!

I just recolored these French hanging doors. They had an existing finish with an orange yellow stain but no more… Can’t wait for you to see the NEW look! Gel stain works great with outdated furniture, kitchen cabinets, stair rails, doors, or just about any finished wood you’re looking to replace. I hope these hanging French doors inspire you to try it!

This is what these doors looked like before. They hang in my living room to screen off the clutter that usually reigns in my dining room, aka my staging/photography room.

And here they are in the works…

THIS POST IS SPONSORED/CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS TO PRODUCTS I USE. YOU CAN SEE MY FULL DISCLOSURE HERE.

REFERENCES

How to apply gel stain to finished wood

I’m using these french doors as an example, but gel stain can be used over ANY existing finish. Kitchen cabinets, display cases, previously stained furniture, factory finished wood, veneer or laminate, and even pre-finished surfaces. In contrast to conventional stains, gel stains do not penetrate the surface. Instead they sit on a surface that looks more like paint but gives the appearance of a stain because it gives a ‘see-through’ color while allowing grain or the underlying surface to be shown.

Here is the full video tutorial. If you have trouble viewing it in your browser, click here on my Youtube channel… and don’t forget to subscribe! 🙂

PREPARATION

Dirt, grease, furniture wax or polish will affect the adhesion of the gel stain, so thorough cleaning is required.

Since gel stains are an oil based product, I recommend wiping the surface with a 50/50 denatured alcohol and water. Or you can replace denatured alcohol with a 50/50 solution of methyl hydrate and water. You can also clean it well with a TSP or White Lightning. If you use the latter, just make sure any remaining residue is removed with clean water.

It’s also a good idea to prep your space… and yourself! I always wear gloves when using gel patches because it will stain your skin. Drip wipes to protect your floors and work area, as well as good ventilation and masks are a good idea.

ABRASIVE SAND

Abrade the existing surface with 120-220 grit sandpaper. I like to do this by hand because nothing crazy is needed and grinders can be too harsh. I sand the surface like I’m wiping down my kitchen counter. You want to slightly scrape the existing finish, but you don’t want to scratch the finish as Gel Stain won’t cover scratches or imperfections.

After sanding, I remove all the dust with a vacuum cleaner cloth.

CHOOSING THE GEL SPOTS COLORS

When over-dyeing an existing finish, it’s much easier and safer to go darker than lighter.

Remember that as you are applying a new stain to an existing color and finish the color you choose will be changed as the original finish will show through a little.

For example I tried Walnut and this Colonial Black and settled on the black. It reduces the orange-yellow stain on those doors BUT I still don’t have a TRUE black stain. I have a darker stain with the warm undertones that reminds me of a dark walnut.

If you’re unsure, I recommend buying a few stains and testing them on an inconspicuous area of ​​your project. If you are still not 100% satisfied, you can MIX or layer Gel Stains. They’re very versatile and fun to play around with to get the look you’re looking for.

HOW TO APPLY THE GEL STAIN

Once you have decided on a colour, open the can and give it a good stir. Apply the gel stain to manageable areas using a shop towel, applicator pad, chip brush or lint-free rag. I work with these doors leaning against my studio wall. Because Gel Stain is viscous, like pudding or shoe polish, it doesn’t drip.

After application, wipe back the stain and smooth it out with a tool of your choice. For these doors I used an applicator pad and then a shop towel to get the look I liked.

Thin even layers give the best results. And if the first layer isn’t dark enough, you can always apply additional layers to darken the effect. Here’s the finished look. Big difference don’t you think?

Here’s a closeup.

I am SUPER happy with a coat. It really reduced the yellow-orange stain and the grain still shows through nicely.

TOP COATING OF THE GEL STAINS

It is recommended to let the gel stain dry for 72 hours before plating it, so I haven’t plated these doors yet because I wanted to send you the mail. You can apply a water based top coat over this oil based stain but it MUST be 100% dry!

12 Frequently Asked Questions About Gel Stains

1. Do I need to stir the product before use?

Yes

2. Can I use a bonded coating for easier application and longer working time?

Yes. Mineral spirits work well as a lubricating coating, or you can mix a little denatured alcohol into the stain to dilute the yellow stain a bit.

3. Can I custom mix Gel Stains to create my own colors?

Yes! Gel Stains colors can be mixed OR layered together. For example you can use a walnut on your first layer. Let dry. For the second layer, use a Colonial Black. This gives the stain a really nice depth.

4. What will remove the gel stain if I make a mistake?

Mineral spirits will help eliminate imperfections on finished wood. For your hands and skin you can use baby oil or ANY oil like vegetable oil or olive oil for your fingers and hands.

5. Can I apply a gel stain and let it soak into the finish?

no Gel patches are topical. They do not penetrate the wood like conventional stains. It’s more like a patch of paint. Gel stains are highly pigmented like a paint and stain combination and they don’t sink into the wood, they sit on it. Because of this, they CAN be used to cover up an existing finish! Light, even coats are recommended so you don’t end up with a sticky mess. If it’s applied too heavily or unevenly, you’ll want to sweep it back and even out for a nice, even finish.

6. What brands of Gel Stain are available?

I’ve used Varathane, Minwax, General Finishes, and Dixie Belle, but there are probably others that I’m not aware of or haven’t tried.

7. What should you use to apply the gel stain?

I usually use a variety of tools to apply and remove my gel stains. My favorites are cheap chip brushes, foam brushes, applicator pads, shop towels, and lint-free rags. If you’re working with a really large area, you can even use a foam roller.

8. Do gel stains only work on wood?

Gel stains work beautifully on wood, veneer, laminate and/or painted surfaces!

9. How many shifts are required?

This is entirely up to you. I was very happy with just one coat of paint on these doors! However, if I wanted a darker, more opaque finish, I could have applied another thin coat or two. The more layers, the darker and more opaque your finish will be.

10. Do I need to sand between coats?

You can sand it down VERY lightly between coats with a polishing pad (320 grit or higher). I didn’t bother with these doors, but when I’m making a dining table and want a perfectly smooth finish, sanding in between helps. However, do not sand the last layer before the top coat. In my opinion it is not necessary.

11. Does Gel Stain cover scratches or imperfections?

It doesn’t cover water marks, scratches, or gouges, but you can “hide or hide” them by using a slightly stronger gel stain or artificial finishes.

12. How long does Gel Stain take to dry?

Gel patches can feel dry in 6-8 hours depending on temperature and humidity, but you should give them 24 hours to dry between each layer. 72 hours is recommended for the top coat.

BONUS

Can I use Gel Stains like a glaze?

Yes! Gel patches can be used to glaze, distress or create artificial surfaces!

My french doors are hanging up again… hiding some of my mess in the staging area. 😉 I love the new look!

Gel patches are an amazing way to save time, money, and effort. They’re a time saver because you don’t have to strip and sand down to bare wood to start over. Gel stains can completely transform an existing finish, allowing you to save money on DIY instead of buying new cabinets or furniture. And they’re easy to use. No drops. And YOU decide how light or dark the finish should be.

I hope I’ve inspired you to try them out!

HAVE YOU OR WOULD YOU TRY GELSTAINS ON AN EXISTING PAINT? FEEL FREE TO ASK YOUR QUESTIONS. I ALWAYS LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU. 💕

Thank you for reading. 🙂

I wish you a nice day full of inspiration and happy staining!

Denise XO

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In this video, General Finishes’ Tom and Sheryl Monahan show how to refresh an existing oak cabinetry with General Finishes Brown Mahogany Gel Stain.

Gel Stains are formulated with a combination of pigments, oils and urethanes to deliver a deep and lasting finish. Starting with Java Gel Stain, they have quickly become one of our best selling products due to their excellent coverage over existing surfaces or bare wood.

TIPS FOR APPLYING YELLOW MARKING: When applying yellow stain to an existing surface rather than bare wood, always seal the yellow stain paint with top coat.

Drying time to touch: 4-6 hours.

Drying time for painting over with stain: 24-48 hours.

Drying time to apply oil based top coat: 24-48 hours.

Drying time to apply water-based top coat: 72 hours.

Drying time for light use: 7-10 days.

Curing time: 21-30 days.

For more information, see our other blog post titled What Existing Surfaces Can I Apply General Finishes Gel Stain To?

Feel free to contact General Finishes on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/generalfinishes?fref=ts if you have any questions about any of our products.

For more great project ideas and design inspiration, follow us on Pinterest at https://www.pinterest.com/generalfinishes/, on Instagram at @generalfinishes, on Twitter at @GeneralFinishes and on Google + at https://plus.google. com/+generalfinishes/posts

You’re probably wondering – Should you sand between coats of stain? The issue of sanding between stain coats is a hotly debated topic. Many people say you should, others say you shouldn’t. But what does the research show?

We set out to find an answer, and we’re going to share our findings with you today! If that sounds interesting, read on to learn if it’s worth sanding between coats of stain.

time to end the suspense;

Should you sand between stain coats? No, sanding between coats of stain is only mandatory when using water-based stains. You will need to sand down any raised wood grain. However, if you use other types of wood stain, you only need to sand the surface before applying the first coat of stain.

Sanding between coats of oil based stain

Sanding between coats of oil based stains is not necessary as oil based stains have a longer open time before drying. This means you have enough time to wipe off the excess stain with a rag and smooth out any possible blemishes or bubbles.

How to sand between stain coats

If you’re working with a stain that needs sanding between coats, you need to get it right. If you sand too much or use the wrong grade of sandpaper, you could end up ruining what you’ve already achieved.

Here is the best sandpaper for wood that I recommend.

So follow these steps and we’ll help you achieve a consistently clean finish on your projects.

Steps for sanding between stain coats

Step 1

First select a high grit sandpaper number (220-240). This fine grit of sandpaper will smooth out any developing imperfections. If you use finer grit sandpaper, you’ll tear into the stain and end up with hard-to-remove scratches.

Avoid sanding between coats of stain with steel wool unless the area is large.

step 2

Use a sanding tool to ensure you sand the surface evenly. If you don’t have one, improvise with a block of small scrap wood to wrap the sandpaper around. Still, you can use your bare hands to hold the sandpaper.

step 3

Lightly sand the stain layer in the direction of the wood grain. Make light passes from end to end of the wood project. You will notice some dust on the sandpaper and surface.

Slowly run your palm over the sanded surface; When everything is smooth and soft, you can stop sanding. If the opposite is the case, the surface may need further light sanding.

step 4

Vacuum the dust from the surface and then continue wiping with a dry cloth. When working with oil stains, soak the cloth in mineral spirits and wipe the surface to ensure no dust remains.

Do not use a cloth dampened with water to wipe sanding dust off the wood. The water will lift the wood grain and force you to sand again.

Types of stains and whether you should sand between them

Sanding between coats allows the first coat and second coat to bond well, eventually giving you a better finish. Note, however, that all stains must be sanded before applying the first coat, but only one type should be sanded between each coat.

In the next section, you will learn the details of the different wood stains and at what stage each requires sanding.

Oil based stain

First on our list is the oil-based stain. It is one of the most popular stains among woodworkers. Sanding is especially necessary during the wood preparation phase. Make sure you smooth out ridges and scratches with very light sandpaper.

This stain does not require you to sand between layers of this oil stain. Instead, apply a thin coat of oil stain to the wood surface and wipe off the excess with a clean rag.

If you want to stain wood darker, apply several coats of the stain and allow the previous coat to dry completely before the next.

Water based stain

Water-based stain is the only stain that requires sanding between each coat, with the exception of the top coat. This is because the water content in this stain lifts the wood grain: which you need to sand down if you’re interested in a smooth surface and beautiful finish.

In this case, you need to use a light sandpaper with a grit of 220 and higher. Then wipe off the sanding dust with a dry cloth.

gel stain

As with the oil stains above, you don’t need to sand between the gel stains. The only sanding of your wood with this product is during the prep phase.

Gel stains are usually thick and paint-like in consistency, and tend to sit on the surface rather than penetrate the wood pores. So when applying gel stain to laminate cabinets or wood, do not sand after the first coat of stain.

paint stain

Paint stains are one of those stains that you don’t need to sand between coats. The behavior of this product is a bit different from the others: it can melt into the previous layer of paint and thus adhere well.

If you notice bumps on the surface with varnish stains, you can wipe or rub them lightly with a clean cloth to smooth them before applying the last coat.

polyurethane stain

Polyurethane stains are also known as paint stains. They come in water-based and oil-based stains. You don’t need to sand after each coat of either type as they dry quickly. It also means you can wipe away any excess stains or imperfections as soon as you notice them!

metal complex dye stain

Metallized dye stain is stronger and more durable for dense wood and exterior finishes because metals such as copper and chrome are added to make the dye more resistant to fading.

The metals used in this stain are not grain-enhancing; That means you don’t have to sand between coats.

Water-soluble dye stain

As the name suggests, this is a wood stain that comes in powder form. To make it work, dissolve the powder dyes in water at the recommended ratio of one ounce per liter of water. Add more powder if you want deeper pigments.

Because this stain is water soluble, you may need to sand lightly between coats.

How long should the stain dry before sanding?

Since water-based stains are the kind that allow for in-between sanding, you want to make sure the surface doesn’t feel wet or cold when you place your palm on it. This is one of the tests to determine when the surface is dry enough for sanding or the next coat.

Another reliable way to tell if the stain is dry enough to absorb some sanding is to let it sit for about one to four hours, depending on the humidity in your area.

You can also grind a small inconspicuous spot. When the sanded part turns whitish and some loose dirt gets caught in the sandpaper, you can go ahead and sand over the entire stained surface.

In general, it’s good to rely on all of the above methods to determine if the stain is dry enough to sand.

How long should you let the stain dry between coats

Allow the stain coats to dry for four to eight hours or more, depending on the stain you choose. You should ensure that the previous layer is sufficiently dry to the touch before applying the next layer.

In addition, manufacturers indicate the recommended length of time between stain coats that you should wait; stick to it. This drying time allows for proper stain pickup and gives you a better finish.

For more information, see our blog post on when to apply a second coat of stain to get the results you want.

Do you need to sand before coloring?

Yes, you will need to sand the wood surface to smooth out scratches, dents, and other blemishes that the stain would bring out. Sanding also opens up the pores in the wood, allowing the stain to penetrate properly. If you skip sanding, the wood may not take the stain as it should.

Can you sand after dyeing?

Yes, you can sand after staining to even out bubbles and raised grain. However, you would need to use finer grit sandpaper starting at 220. This grit is perfect for light sanding tasks. Note, however, that not all stains require sanding after application.

Sandpaper with what grit for stained wood

220 grit sandpaper is perfect for sanding stained wood. Using this fine sandpaper, run light down the length of the stained wood. Also, be sure to sand wood in the direction of the wood grain.

Related post: What grit sandpaper for deck sanding

Do I need to sand stained wood before applying polyurethane?

No need to sand after staining before applying polyurethane. You just need to give the stain enough time to dry before applying polyurethane. But if you are a perfectionist, you can feather sand the surface with super fine (400-500) sandpaper.

Sand between the stain layers

Sanding between coats of stain applies only to water-based stains to help you get rid of raised grit and imperfections. However, sanding raw wood prior to staining is necessary for all stain types.

Knowing whether or not you should sand between coats of stain is an ace up your sleeve for any woodworker who enjoys DIY projects.

Always read the manufacturer’s manual for more information. Good luck with your coloring project.

Read next: Should you sand between coats of paint?

ANSWER: All stains require a top coat. Think of stain as paint and top coat as sealant and protection.

The high urethane content of General Finishes Gel Stains results in a lustrous finish that tends to mislead people into thinking that no sealant is necessary. The beauty of Gel Stain comes from the thick urethane, which can apply any amount of color to any surface, but that color needs to be sealed with a top coat. An added bonus of the top coat is that it also protects the wood from drying out.

EXAMPLE:

Years ago, Chris at General Finishes made the mistake of not applying a top coat to a desktop. She applied 3 coats of a mixture of Java and Antique Walnut and because it looked and felt ‘finished’ she allowed the desk to cure for a week as she considered the project complete. The next day, Chris worked a few hours at her new desk. Standing up, she found brown stains all over her elbows and realized that her mouse pad had rubbed away some of the stain on the desk. Lesson learned!

WHICH TOP COAT SHOULD I CHOOSE?

GEL STAINS:

General Finishes recommends using High Performance Top Coat for a water based option and Arm-R-Seal or Gel Top Coat for oil based options.

*If you choose High Performance make sure you wait 72 hours between the two products as you are changing from an oil based product to a water based product and it is important that the first product is dry before apply the second.

GENERAL PRACTICE:

– Oil based products go well with oil based top coats and water based products with water based top coats.

-If you want to mix water and oil based products, be sure to wait 72 hours between the two products. If a water-based product is underneath an oil-based product, you can wait 24 hours between products. Click Listen to watch a GF video tutorial on this topic: http://youtu.be/yDKZFGvpYpw

-Enduro Professional Top Coats are thinner and are meant to be sprayed on

-High performance can be sprayed. If necessary, it can be diluted with 10% water. Here is a GF video tutorial: http://bit.ly/1wuurwI

-Large surfaces such as cabinets or tables are easier to cover with liquid topcoat than with gel topcoat.

-For more information on the differences between GF topcoats, see the following blog post: http://bit.ly/1kYWbb3

I’m a little embarrassed to admit this, but the first time I tried Gelfleck was last summer. It took me years to go from the traditional oil based stain to the yellow stain variant. And guess what? Gel stain is so much better! But what exactly is it?

Yellow stain is an oil-based varnish (like polyurethane) with an added colorant. It is significantly thicker than traditional wood stain and is designed to sit on the wood rather than soak into it. This reduces staining, a common problem with traditional stains.

Gel stain has many useful uses, so let’s take a look at why it’s my favorite type of stain!

Note: This blog contains affiliate links. If you click and make a purchase, I may receive compensation (at no additional cost to you).

When should Gel Stain be used?

Since yellow stain is a thick, colored varnish, when applied to wood it will mostly sit on the piece. It will soak in a bit if you’re working with bare wood, but not nearly as much as traditional stain because it’s so thick.

Softwoods stain when traditional stain is applied because the pores absorb the stain unevenly. Some pores absorb a lot of stain, others less, which creates the blotchy appearance.

Because gel stain absorbs very little, this is less of a problem. All the pores of the wood have little access to the stain and therefore appear more even.

So it’s best to use yellow stain when staining softwoods like pine or common planks you buy at the hardware store. Yellow stain means you don’t have to use wood conditioner or other methods to achieve a beautiful appearance on these types of boards.

Since it is a varnish, yellow stain can also dry on wood. Therefore, unlike traditional stains, it can be applied to previous surfaces.

There are a few caveats: you can’t lighten the piece, the layers have to be thin, and too many layers will hide the wood. But it’s a valid finishing option if you just need to touch up the wood or darken the shade a bit, and it’s a lot easier than sanding down the piece and finishing.

Gel stain vs normal stains

Gel Stain Traditional Stain Pros – Can be applied to existing surfaces

– Best for staining softwoods

– Good for vertical surfaces – Best for staining hardwoods

– Less expensive

– Multiple layers can be applied. Cons – More expensive

– Multiple coats will darken the wood – Causes staining on softwoods

When asked to choose between yellow stain and traditional wood stain, I almost always choose yellow stain. The reason? Yellow stain is best for staining softwoods, and most of my budget-friendly projects use cheap pine or “whitewood”.

It’s also great for vertical surfaces because yellow stain is thicker and doesn’t run down the surface like regular wood stain.

Additionally, Gel Stain can be used on previous finishes, which is fantastic when furniture pieces are being refinished. Those three things make it a lot more versatile for me, which is why it’s my top pick.

However, gel patches are more expensive; This liter of gel stain costs around $16, while this liter of conventional stain from the same manufacturer costs around $7. I think Gel Stain goes further because you can apply less of it at a time, but I haven’t really tested that. Also, gel stain negates the need to buy wood conditioner, so maybe that will help make up the difference.

And there are times when gel patches aren’t the right choice. If you’re primarily staining hardwoods like oak, traditional staining is probably the way to go. It’s cheaper, and because it penetrates the wood, it really makes the wood shine, even with multiple coats.

If multiple coats of yellow stain are applied (usually to deepen the color), the wood will eventually be covered by the stain because the stain does not soak. If you’re working with expensive hardwoods or concerned about a deep look, traditional oil-based stain is the way to go.

Both yellow stain and traditional wood stain require 2 hours drying time so this should not be a factor in deciding between them.

How to apply gel stain to untreated wood

Step 1: Prepare the wood

I always sand wood before staining. Always. You may think this is unnecessary, but there are usually at least some saw marks from manufacture that are invisible until you stain the wood. Loops eliminates this. I have a whole process for that, which you can read about here.

If you also need to apply wood filler to holes, now is the time. I don’t know if I really recommend this unless you don’t have a choice – I tested a number of different wood conditioners to see how they took stains (see the experiment here) and although some were better than others, all stood out from the rest of the wood at least a little.

Finally, I recommend testing your stain on either reclaimed wood or an inconspicuous part of your piece before you begin. That way you’ll know if something goes dramatically wrong before applying the stain to the entire piece. I know you might be tempted to skip this step. Not.

Step 2: Apply Gel Stain

Applying gel stain to bare wood is quite similar to applying traditional wood stain.

Apply the stain with a rag or foam brush. Start by going against the grain of the wood to push the stain into the pores. Then go back over the stain and brush with the grain.

The order here matters, since the stain ultimately sits on the wood. You want the second pass to go with the grain so any stains blend into the grain.

When staining untreated wood, we wipe off the excess stain with a cloth in the next step. That said, it doesn’t matter if you use thick or thin layers (everything will be wiped anyway), but you’ll save on stains and therefore money if you use thin layers.

Step 3: Wipe off the remaining stain

Once the gel stain has sat for about 5 minutes, wipe off the excess with a rag. Be sure to wipe in the direction of the grain so any marks blend into the grain of the wood.

Allow the stain to dry for 2 hours.

Step 4: Reapply if necessary

Once the stain has dried (2 hours!), reapply if you wish to deepen the color. Note, however, that the more coats of yellow stain applied, the darker the wood will become.

I would not recommend applying more than two coats of Gel Stain. If you are concerned that the color is not dark enough, choose a darker stain for your second coat.

Also note that oil based stain is better for getting a deep stain from the start. If you know you want a really deep color, consider using an oil-based stain so you don’t cover the wood with multiple coats of yellow stain.

How to apply gel stain to finished wood

Step 1: Prepare the finish

I know I’m probably going to make someone unhappy by saying this, but yeah, you have to sand the finish. Otherwise the gel stain will have nothing to stick to.

If you’re one of those people who hates this step, do you have a good random orbit sander? It makes everything easier. I have and love this Dewalt and you can read more about my experience with it here.

Since you’re only scratching up the surface a little, 180-grit sandpaper should work just fine.

I also recommend testing your stain on an opaque area of ​​the wood before applying it to the whole piece. This allows you to determine in advance what it will look like before you apply it everywhere and have disaster on your hands.

Step 2: Apply a thin layer of Gel Stain

Since you won’t be wiping the stain away afterwards, it’s absolutely essential that you apply thin coats. Whenever I apply gel stain to previous surfaces I always use a rag because it ensures my coats are thin.

Rub the stain onto the piece, first applying the stain against the grain, then with the grain. If there are exposed wood pores, this process will help the wood stain reach those pores while still ensuring the final wipe is in the direction of the grain to allow any stain marks to blend in.

Step 3: Wait for the gel stain to dry

The gel stain indicates it can be recoated in two hours and untreated wood usually does. However, if you are using gel stain on finished wood you should ensure that it is no longer tacky before applying another coat or finish.

When I worked on this cedar box, it took me 6 hours. It was a particularly hot and humid day, which probably contributed to the dry season.

Step 4: Recoat

As mentioned above, I only apply a maximum of two coats of yellow stain, otherwise the wood grain will be obscured. On finished wood, this will change the appearance of the wood a bit, but it probably won’t make a drastic change to your piece.

The cedar box remodel (full tutorial here) is a great example of this. This is how it started:

The color and finish was worn in the front and my main goal was to even out the look of the chest and darken it a bit. I applied two coats of yellow stain and some wood varnish and this is what it looked like afterwards:

It looks amazing, but I would have been disappointed if I went for a deep expresso look because that just wouldn’t happen in two coats.

Have realistic expectations of what your gel stain can do and it’s going to look great!

Finishing wood over gel stain

Oil-based polyurethane, varnish, and shellac are all great ways to treat gel-stained wood, provided the gel stain has allowed to dry for at least 24 hours.

I would not use water based polyurethane directly over gel stains. This is because gel stain is oil based and oil based stain and water based polyurethane do not always play well. Sometimes it works, but it often causes problems.

If you want to apply a water-based top coat over gel stains, I would first apply a coat or two of Zinsser’s Shellac Sealcoat. This will seal the gel stain in the wood and prevent the water-based polyurethane from interacting with it.

In fact, Zinsser’s Shellac Sealcoat is a great finish in general (I love it so much) because it dries super fast and can be recoated in 2 hours unlike oil based products. It’s what I used on top of the cedar box.

Other shellacs also dry quickly, however, Zinsser’s Shellac Sealcoat is the only wax-free, pre-mixed shellac on the market, which is why I highly recommend it. Other shellacs come in flake form and need to be mixed with denatured alcohol before use, which is just complicated.

Troubleshooting gel stains

The most common problem with gel stains is that they never dry and are still sticky a few hours later. This problem is caused by two things:

Humidity is high, so the stain will take a while to dry. The applied layers were too thick.

Extra drying time could improve the moisture situation, but if the coats were too thick there’s not really anything that can dry them out.

Instead, take some mineral spirits and apply it to the stain with a rag. This should help dissolve the stain so it can be wiped off the piece and reapplied in thinner coats.

If you’re looking for more information on wood finishing troubleshooting, check out my Fabulously Finished Reference Bundle. It walks you through exactly how to color, finish, and troubleshoot your project so you have a flawless finish every time!

More frequently asked questions about gel stains

What is the best gel stain?

I’ve had good luck with Varathane’s Interior Gel Stains. Available in major department stores, they are easy to apply and look great.

Is gel stain based on oil?

Just like regular wood stain, Yellow Stain is an oil based stain and should not be combined with water based products.

Can you paint over gel stain?

When the gel stain is fully cured, it can be painted over with latex paint. If you’re particularly concerned about adhesion, a good quality oil-based adhesion primer can help, although it’s not really necessary.

Can you use gel stain on veneer or laminate?

Yellow stain can be used on both laminate furniture and wood veneers. Lightly sand the surface with 180 grit sandpaper, then apply very thin coats of gel stain, allowing at least 2 hours to dry between coats.

See the section above on applying yellow stain to finished wood for more detailed instructions.

Can you dilute gel stains?

Gel stain can be diluted with white spirit. This will thin the stain (resulting in a lighter color) and create a glaze that can be used to either stain or add a unique antique look to the paint.

Does mineral spirits remove gel stains?

Mineral spirits will remove wet or sticky gel stains. However, once the gel stain has fully set, the mineral spirits will no longer have any effect. In this situation, the most effective way to remove gel stains is standing up.

Want to stain a wood surface without the mess of liquid wood stain? You might consider a gel stain for the job. In this ProPaintCorner.com guide you will learn: The best gel stain products on the market

Tips for doing the best gel coloring job

Do’s and don’ts when using gel patches

And much more!

Below is a short list of all of our top products. Keep scrolling to learn more about how to choose and use the best gel paint for your next project.

Image Product Our top pick Our top pick General finishes Oil-based gel stain Leaves an elegant finish

Easier to use than regular patches

Does not penetrate the wood Leaves an elegant finish

Easier to use than regular patches

Does not penetrate the wood View on Amazon Best Budget Best Budget Minwax Interior Wood Gel Stain Popular Choice

Non-drip formula

Dries completely in 8-10 hours. Popular choice

Non-drip formula

Dries completely in 8-10 hours

Fragrant

Contains 10 bottles – each a different color Creates an opaque look

Fragrant

Contains 10 bottles – each a different color View on Amazon Gel Stain by Retique There are 11 different colors to choose from

Glaze over the existing surface

Dries in an hour or less 11 different colors to choose from

Glaze over the existing surface

Dries in an hour or less View on Amazon Varathane Premium Gel Stain Ideal for repairing vertical surfaces

Buy in half pint or 1 quart quantities

Brings out the natural beauty of wood. Ideal for vertical surface repair

Buy in half pint or 1 quart quantities

Enhances the natural beauty of wood View on Amazon

Our Top 5 Best Gel Paints If you’re really looking for the best semi-transparent paints to use for your DIY project, you’ve come to the right place! Below is a list of our top 5 stains. Read on to learn more about the pros and cons of each stain:

What is gel stain for wood/fiberglass surfaces? Yellow stains are a thicker version of the classic wood stain that you might find at a hardware store or hardware store. Some people say gel stains work better than traditional stains, but we’ll let you be the boss. Here are some advantages of yellow stain: Thicker consistency A thicker consistency makes yellow stain easier to work with than an oil-based liquid stain, which can penetrate deep into the grain of the wood, making it impossible to get the right results on wood grains are more porous. Longer Drying Time Because gel stains are thicker, they take a little longer to dry compared to regular stains. Look different Gel stains have a slightly different appearance than regular stains. Check out each specific product we’ve recommended to get a good idea of ​​how it will look when applied to your project. Remains on the wood surface Yellow stains do not penetrate the wood grain like normal stains. Instead they stay on the surface so you can expect to use less amount when using a gel tint color. This also makes it easier to stain vertical surfaces such as doors, kitchen cabinets, window frames, etc. without leaving stains everywhere. Seals in Project Gel stains are usually the final step in painting or staining that helps seal the project completely. For example, many boat and surfboard builders use gel stain as a top coat to form a hard surface on the outside. Durability Gelcoats are usually the last coat/top coat for a reason: because they dry hard and are gentle on the underlying surface. Read more >> What are the best wood stains for a deck?

What are the Different Types of Wood Surface Gel Stains? When it comes to gel patches, you have many great options that other customers have been happy with in the past. Here are some of the different options we have recommended: Oil Based The classic oil based stain is a natural solution for sealing wood surfaces. Water-based stains are less toxic, which is good, but they may not have the desired effect. Interior Stain Some gel stains are only recommended for interior use, so be sure to read the label before purchasing specifically for your project. Indoor/outdoor stain Some products are suitable for both indoor and outdoor use – something to consider when purchasing your next gel stain. Polyurethane Polyurethane gelcoats are more like an epoxy used to create a hard finish on the surface. For example, woodworkers might use a 2-part polyurethane resin to paint a hardwood tabletop as it fills in any knots in the wood surface and makes it nice and smooth. Read more >> What are the best stains for staining a fence?

How do you properly apply gel stains to surfaces? Preparation is key to applying a gelcoat as this is often the last step in the painting process. Gel stain is also great for fiberglass doors and windows, and you can even use a gel stain to seal a boat or surfboard. Here are some supplies you will need to apply gel stain correctly: Sandpaper Sanding is always a must when working with wood and fiberglass. Start with 80 grit sandpaper for rough surfaces and work your way up to 200 grit or higher. You can even wet sand with super fine sandpaper, but the most important thing is to let the project sand to get the best results. Applicator You’ll need something to apply the stain with, whether it’s a brush, a microfiber cloth, or even an old t-shirt or sock. Mineral spirits You need something like mineral spirits (depending on the product) to clean and remove stains from unwanted surfaces. Drape Sheets It’s nice to have at least one old bed sheet lying around to help keep gel stains off your step stool. You probably need a step stool in your home to help you with door and window staining and other projects. How do you apply gel stain? (Five Step Guide) Need a quick guide on your next stain/varnish job? Here are a few quick steps that will help you get the job done smoothly. Sand and prepare Clean surface and apply first coat Allow stain to dry and inspect Apply second coat (if needed) Test water resistance Step 1 – Sand and prepare Sanding is of course the first step in any wood or fiberglass finishing project as the main idea is the stain is to make the surface smooth and attractive. Some projects may require starting with 80 grit sandpaper, and you’ll get best results by increasing the grit on each pass, up to a maximum of 150 grit. When sanding with sandpaper finer than 150 grit, the gel stain may not absorb easily on the wood due to its thick consistency. For outdoor projects like a raw wood fence or siding, you may want to use a pressure washer. On some surfaces it may even help to hit it with some steel wool to get rid of any chipping that may occur after applying the stain. Here is a great video explaining the whole gel staining process:

Step 2 – Clean the surface and apply the first coat

Use a vacuum cleaner or simply wipe the surface of the wood dry with a damp microfiber cloth. You may even want to apply a conditioner or mineral spirits “slide coat” to prepare the wood for staining. Apply the first coat of Gel Stain to your project following the directions on the label of each product you are using. Start by hitting all of the crevices and end with the larger surface areas. Note: Don’t forget to stir the stain well before applying it to the wood surface. Also read the label of the specific product you are using for any other specific procedures that may be required. For example, when applying gel stain to varnish (or vice versa), you may want to apply a small amount to the surface to see a sample of the finished product. Step 3 – Let the stain dry and inspect After the stain has dried you can either sand it lightly with high grit sandpaper or just leave it as is. It’s up to you how detailed you want to go when staining wood and fiberglass – some people like to take their time, and others like to smear some stain on and move on to the next project. Step 4 – Apply a second coat of stain (if necessary) Apply another coat of stain if it penetrates too far into the wood and causes imperfections in the finish. However, there is no need to overdo it with excess stain. So if it looks good with the first coat, consider saving the remaining stain for other projects. Step 5 – Test Water Resistance Since Gel Stain is a great sealant, it should protect your wood or fiberglass well from water damage. You may want to pour some water on the surface of the wood or fiberglass after it has all dried to see how resilient it is – if you see imperfections you can always apply another coat of stain.

What to look for in the best gel stains for wood surfaces? Non-toxic Purchasing a non-toxic solution is always worth considering. Retique, in particular, makes a great water-based gel stain that’s reasonably priced enough for you to get the job done without exposing you and your loved ones to harmful toxins. Good Reviews After clicking the Amazon page link, you should scroll down and see what others have said about each specific product to get a good idea of ​​what to expect. All of the products featured on this page have high ratings and reputations, but it still helps to look at other people’s projects to give you some good ideas. Variety of Stain Colors Some of these products have a variety of different colors that you can choose from before purchasing. Quantity Buying paints and stains in bulk is always cheaper. Be careful how much gel patch you buy. Square footage Some products list how many square feet each unit covers, so you can get a good idea of ​​how much to buy. The best advice for your specific project is to research online what other people have been doing in your situation. Don’t forget that you can always ask us a question on the front page of our Pro Paint Corner website. Our reviews of the best gel stains for wooden surfaces

Choice #1: Oil Based Gel Stain For General Finishing This is by far the most popular oil based gel stain on the market, rated 5 stars by thousands of users. General Finishes is a brand you can’t go wrong with as it’s a thick stain that’s easy to apply with a foam brush or microfiber cloth. Click here to check the price. General Finishes Oil Based Gel Stain is solid in four different amounts including 1 gallon, 1 half pint, 1 pint or 1 quart so you have coverage no matter the size of your project. Get your favorite General Finishes Gel Stain color on Amazon. Pros Amazon’s product of choice

Thousands of 5-star reviews

Easy to use Disadvantages Square footage not specified

VOC content not specified

A bit on the expensive side

Choice #3: Unicorn Spit Yellow Stain and Glaze in a Unicorn Spit is a unique product that blends color with yellow stain and glazes to create a glamorous finish that penetrates deep into the surface of bare wood grains. This 10 pack of 4 oz bottles gives you 10 different colors of Unicorn Spit that can be mixed and matched to add a creative touch to your wood stain project. Jasmine scented makes it more fun to work with indoors or outdoors . Advantages Unique product

Make your project livelier

Rated well on Amazon Cons VOC content not stated

A solid color is not an option

Choice #4: Gel Stain by Retique It Gel Stain is a handcrafted, water-based gel stain that uses nanotechnology to act as the perfect stain over previously painted surfaces. One of the reasons you might choose Retique Gel Stain is that it’s thin enough to use in a paint sprayer, so this is a great product for larger projects. Click to check price Another cool aspect of Gel Stain by Retique is that you can buy three different kits including rustic, weatherproof and contemporary looks. Pick it up on Amazon at the best price. Benefits Non-toxic and water-based

Cleans with soap and water

Low VOC Cons Not sold in different colors

More expensive than other options

Square footage not specified

Choice #5: Varathane Premium Gel Stain Varathane Premium Gel Stain is great for staining vertical surfaces and creates a natural wood look on fiberglass surfaces, so use it on all your boats, surfboards and other fun projects, as well as furniture. Click to check price With 10 different colors of Varathane Premium Gel Stain to choose from, you should have no problem finding the right product for your next staining project. Pick up Varathane from Amazon and have a half pint or quart container delivered to your door. Pros Covers 250 square feet per container

thicker consistency

Greta Reviews Disadvantages VOC content not specified

Takes longer to dry

Our top pick: General Finishes oil-based gel stain

General Finishes Oil Based Gel Stain is our top pick because it has thousands and thousands of 5 star reviews on Amazon and it is reasonably priced. This General Finishes oil based gel stain is easy to use and cleaner than applying regular stain as it is thicker.

I’ve stripped my cabinets and applied three coats of stain, but the cabinet doors still feel tacky after two days of drying. Should I go ahead and apply the polyurethane finish and hope for the best? – Lauren

Hello Lauren,

If you have used a penetrating oil stain, you may have allowed the stain to form too thick a layer on the surface of the wood. Penetrating wood stains are not intended as a surface finish. If applied too thickly, they will not dry properly and will remain sticky to the touch. This can also happen if the wood has not been fully stripped and sanded down to the bare wood as the stain will remain on the surface rather than penetrating the wood.

To remove excess oil stains from wood, simply apply another coat of stain, leave for a few minutes, then wipe off. Excess stain will redissolve and peel away, leaving only the stain that has soaked into the wood.

If almost all of the stain comes off when you wipe, the surface has probably not been sufficiently sanded. Remove the remaining stain by wiping the wood with mineral spirits or naphtha (ensure you have adequate ventilation and do not work near an open flame), then wipe with a clean cloth. Allow the wood to dry completely, sand the piece down to bare wood and apply a coat or two of stain, wiping away any excess paint.

If you applied the stain correctly and it still remained tacky, it could be due to rainy weather or high humidity. Give it a few more days to see if it gets better. Another possibility is that the stain was old or came from a bad batch.

In any case, if the stickiness doesn’t go away, wipe down the wood with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove most of the stain, allow to dry thoroughly, and then try again with a fresh can of stain.

Good luck with your project,

Further information

Gel Stains – Pros and Cons, Uses and Application of Gel Stains by Patrick Harmon

As a wood finisher, there are many different options on the market today to achieve a desired wood finishing result. From pigmented stains to conversion varnishes, water-based wood finishes have seen many changes over time. An interesting wood finish that can often be overlooked is yellow stains. We’re going to create an in-depth guide on gel stain, its pros and cons, and how to use it so you can decide if gel stain is a good addition to your wood finishes.

Benefits of gel patches

Yellow stains are thick stains that you apply to a wood surface. In contrast to conventional stains, which penetrate the wood and create a new colour, yellow stains are applied to the surface of the wood and can be built up in a similar way to paint. Unlike paint, gel stains still allow you to feel the underlying texture of the wood. Yellow stains have relatively good hiding power because they mask the underlying color of a previously stained or painted wood project. Also, because of their thickness, they don’t run as much, which makes them good for vertical surfaces and easy to apply, even for beginners.

Disadvantages of gel stains

Gel stains take a while to dry before you can apply a top coat for protection or a second coat of gel stain. This makes them impractical for projects where you want a finish that can be applied and completed quickly. In addition, gel stains cannot be sprayed on. So if you want a finish that doesn’t look brushed or rolled, gel stains aren’t for you. Yellow stains also don’t bring out the beautiful natural grain of woods, which can make them less useful for woods that absorb well, like oak, ash, mahogany, and walnut. Finally, due to their thickness, they can have problems with projects with many corners and small gaps, as the gel stain can accumulate excessively in these areas, resulting in an uneven surface appearance.

Ideal applications for gel stains

With their unique advantages and disadvantages, gel patches have specific uses where they make perfect sense. A great use for gel patches is for general finishing on small projects. Their ease of use makes them well-suited for coating a one-off project as they require no special equipment other than a brush and roller. Additionally, their ability to mask porous and non-porous areas with similar competence makes them a good finish to apply where you may have used different types of wood in a single project, or on non-porous woods that don’t naturally absorb stain (Species such as pine, maple cherry and birch). A final possible use for gel stains is applying to artificial surfaces with a tool to create the appearance of a wood grain. The key to using gel patch on an artificial surface is to apply a small amount of gel patch to an area as a test, giving it enough time to dry, at which point you can determine if it’s sticking to the surface. If you can easily rub off the gel stain after curing, it usually doesn’t stick well to the artificial surface you want to apply it to.

Proper steps to apply gel patches

Step 1 – Prepare the surface

In order for the stain to adhere well, you should ensure that the wood surface is clean and roughened to promote adhesion of the gelcoat stain. This involves using a cleaner on the surface (denatured alcohol works well) and rubbing the wood surface. This will remove any oils or similar contaminants that have built up. Then you should roughen the surface with sandpaper. You can usually use 400 grit sandpaper to slightly roughen the surface for applying gel stain. After sanding the surface, make sure you’ve removed any residual dust with a quick solvent wipe. After the surface is wiped, you should wait until the solvent evaporates from the surface.

Step 2 – Apply the stain

Method 1 – wipe stain

Once the surface is completely dry you can start applying a layer of gel stain. The key with gel stains is that you apply them in thin layers so they don’t clump up on the surface and create an uneven look (if you get blobs, you’ll want to wipe them up quickly so you can still get a reasonably even finish ). You should also apply the gel stain liberally and then wipe away any excess stain with a cloth, making sure you continue to use a fresh area of ​​the cloth to ensure you pick up any additional stain as you apply it. When wiping, try to wipe with the grain to keep the grain looking natural. Most of the time, wiping the gel stain is the usual method of applying the stain.

Method 2 – brush stain

Brushing the stain applies a lot more stain than wiping. Brushing is usually reserved if you want a dark colored look. You brush the yellow stain in the direction of the grain and remove the excess after 20-30 minutes.

Additional coats

After the first coats of stain, you must wait for the stain to dry completely before applying another coat of stain. This can take 48-72 hours. You should ensure that the first coat is fully cured before applying another coat of gel stain.

Top protective coats

After you’ve applied the gel tint, the final step is to give your project a protective top coat (unless your gel tint has a protective coating like a polyurethane). you can get it too

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