Go Kart With Vertical Lawn Mower Engine? The 127 Latest Answer

” ” Regular care and maintenance of your lawnmower’s engine will keep it running smoothly for a long time. ©iStockphoto.com/jamievanbuskirk

All lawnmowers have a rotating blade that cuts the grass evenly at a constant height. Various types of lawn mower engines make this cutting function possible. Lawnmowers with a blade rotating about a vertical axis are called rotary mowers, and those with a horizontally rotating blade are called reel or reel mowers.

Rotary mowers are typically equipped with a two-stroke or four-stroke internal combustion engine. Combustion is one way to generate energy. Combustion is here when a chemical change takes place in a controlled chamber within the engine that results in heat or mechanical energy. Walk behind rotary lawn mowers are generally gasoline powered and have two to seven horsepower engines.

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Riding lawn mowers, on the other hand, have engines ranging from 13 hp to 30 hp because they are so much larger and heavier. Lawn mowers that are built for residential use have less power than larger commercial lawn mowers that are designed to mow a lot of grass in places like golf courses or city parks.

Pay attention to whether the engine of a riding lawn mower is at the front or the rear. Rear engines usually offer better visibility, but the most powerful ride-on mowers have front engines. Base your decision on what is more important to you.

Cylinder mowers often have no motor at all – but they can. If you want to push your reel mower more easily, you can power it with a gas or electric motor. The attached motor spins the blades as you go.

Common lawnmower problems include carburetor quality, dirty oil, unbalanced blades, loose tires and more.

Keep your lawnmower engine in good condition with regular maintenance and care. Allow the engine to cool down after use. Hose the grass and debris off the undercarriage with a hose. Always store the mower in a dry place. If you put it away over the winter, drain the fuel to prevent it from aging and corroding the engine. Run the engine until it stops.

On the last page you will find out more about lawnmower attachments that can make lawn care around the house and garden much easier for you.

If your old lawnmower is due for retirement, you can find new life (and lots of fun) if you decide to recycle its engine. You might be surprised at how many unique projects you can choose from. Here are a few ideas you might want to consider working this weekend:

Convert your lawnmower engine to run on compressed air

There’s a good chance train locomotives are the only exposure to steam engines you’ve had. However, if you add a sleeve valve to your lawnmower engine, you can convert it from gas-powered to air-powered. Watch the video and find instructions on the conversion process here: http://hackaday.com/2016/07/08/from-a-lawnmower-engine-to-a-compressed-air-engine/

Build a DIY generator using a lawnmower engine

For under $40 you can convert your old mower motor into a working generator. You might even have some of the extras in your shop or at a nearby junkyard, saving you money. The small generator is a great backup for the larger one that you set aside for bigger needs. It won’t heat your house, but it can help turn on the lights! You can expect around 500 watts of power, which is enough to power some small electronics or tools. Get the instructions here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Lawnmower-Power-Generator-With-A-Twist/

Build a wooden go-kart

Anyone can buy a go-kart kit for their old lawn mower engine. But how many wooden go-karts have you seen? Sure, it might look primitive, but it’s actually quite doable, which can make it a fun experiment to do with your kids. Wooden go karts are generally cheaper to build, making your project even more affordable. Get the easy wooden go kart plans and instructions here: http://www.kartbuilding.net/Lawnmower_Powered_Wooden_Go-Kart_Plans/

Lawn mower Motorized mulcher

Take a new turn on your compost pile. Start building a DIY mulcher for under $50 versus a commercial mulcher that can cost hundreds of dollars. Plus, the engine power allows you to mulch almost anything you want, whether it’s wet leaves or troublesome vines. Since there is only one moving part, not much can go wrong. Get the diagram of how to build yours here: http://www.aaroncake.net/projects/mulcher.htm

Homemade Power Wheelbarrow

Why break your back when your lawnmower engine can do the hard work for you? The entire device can be made directly from scrap material. Thanks to its gearbox, you can easily move large loads. The speed of your wheelbarrow will be, on average, just a little faster than your easy walking pace. Check it out here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kklos/2102919721

Convert it to an outboard motor

If you don’t feel like buying a brand new boat engine for something small like a gheenoe, you can get enough power to rebuild your current outboard with your old lawn mower engine. Match your mower motor shaft to that of your outboard motor, make sure everything is matched and you are good to go. Get step-by-step instructions here: http://www.instructables.com/id/homemade-lawn-mower-outboard-boat-motor/?ALLSTEPS

Create a MINI BEEP

The MINI-BEEP MBA80 kit sold by Struck Corp allows you to power your own miniature jeep using an old lawn mower engine. Only five sheets of plywood are needed along with the kit to make the MINI BEEP rideable body. You can use it to drive the grandkids around the farm, do snow, or even go off-road. Order the kit or watch videos of the MINI-BEEP in action here: https://struckcorp.com/products/mini-beep-mba80/

Power your MINI-DOZER MD196K bulldozer

Enthusiastic DIY enthusiasts may know that there are mini bulldozers like the MINI-DOZER MD196K that can be purchased as a kit and assembled by the buyer. You can order it with or without a motor. Why spend money on an engine when you have an old lawn mower engine in perfect condition. Follow the instructions in your kit and install the motor so your bulldozer can start moving logs, shoveling snow, or doing other small jobs around your property.

Now there you have some excellent ideas to consider if you want to put those old lawn mower engines to good use.

The engine is the most important part of your go kart and there’s no denying that! Your go karting experience is greatly influenced by the engine you use. A good engine will increase your love of karting, and a bad engine will have you scratching your head trying to figure out ways to fix the problems.

But how do you choose which are the best? Most new kart builders are just looking for the ones that produce the most (max) power and RPM, which is important when you’re looking for the fastest engine, but the fastest isn’t always the best! I would argue that the most important thing to look for is low end torque. More torque in the lower range gets you up to speed quickly and makes driving much more fun.

What about quality? There are so many engines sold in the market that it’s not uncommon to end up with a cheap, poor quality clone engine that actually has a poor powerband when you buy a ready-made off-road go kart you probably will with one of those cheap clones -Engines delivered.

That’s why we’ve compiled a list of engines that have been tried, tested and manufactured by well-known brands. So you can be assured that these motors will last and perform amazingly.

Our list can be broken down into 2 parts, small block engines (#1-6 on the list) and big block engines (#7-9 on the list). Small block engines are ideal for most go karts (and safer for children). Big-block engines are well suited for large, heavy go-karts, such as two-seat off-road go-karts. Putting them on a small kart can result in too much acceleration.

The 9 best go kart engines

1. Tillotson 212

Key Specifications 212cc displacement

9+ hp

10.5-11 ft-lb maximum torque

3/4″ diameter shaft

38 lbs weight Check price on Amazon

Tillotson 212 is the best small block engine for go karts. It is a direct replacement for Predator 212 and other Honda clone engines. If your current setup includes a Predator 212 or a GX200 clone, this engine will fit your setup perfectly.

This engine blows away every other small-block engine in terms of performance. It can produce more than 9 hp of power without modifications and up to 11.5 hp and 5400 rpm with very slight modifications.

At 5400 rpm you can expect to hit 40-50 mph. Due to the high torque that this engine produces, the engine can reach its top speed very quickly. The power curve of this engine speaks for itself. Your go-kart will feel very light when driving.

The parts that the engine comes with are of high quality and will last a long time. It weighs about 38 pounds, has a hemi head, and is similar in size to the Predator 212 or other small engines on this list.

Tillotson is a very well known brand, mostly made in the USA. They are best known for their high quality racing carburettors, but their engines are just as high quality as their carburettors! You can be sure that the engine will last a long time.

Pros: Much better performance than a GX200 or its clones at a cheaper price.

Aftermarket performance parts are readily available with installation tutorials on Youtube.

Internal parts made of high quality materials that do not fail even at 10,000 rpm. Cons: Limited availability.

Almost twice as expensive as Predator 212.

2. Predator 212

Key Specifications 212cc displacement

6.5+ hp

8.1 ft-lbs of maximum torque

3/4″ diameter shaft

37.5 lbs weight Check price on Amazon

Predator 212 is our pick for the best value for money go kart engine. They are incredibly cheap for their quality and performance, especially if you buy them from a port freight store you can get them for as little as $100-120.

Compared to the Honda GX200, you get an almost identical engine in terms of performance for almost 1/3 the Honda price. Its easy availability and low price make it by far the most popular go-kart engine.

If we compare the Predator 212 to the Tillotson 212, you get better Tillotson engine performance as you would expect since the Tillotson engine is almost twice the price. But the Predator 212 can be modified to compete with the Tillotson.

The Predator 212 can generate over 6.5 horsepower and 3600 rpm out of the box. You can expect your go kart to reach 20-30 mph with the Predator 212 engine.

When it comes to performance parts, you can upgrade almost every single part on this engine. There are so many options that you may end up with an engine that produces 15+ horsepower and 7500+ rpm. That’s more than twice the performance and speed of the unmodified version.

Pros: Easily available

Very cheap

Aftermarket performance parts are readily available with installation tutorials on Youtube.

Available with hemi and non-hemi head. Disadvantages: Internal parts can fail at very high speeds.

No electric start (need to buy electric start kit separately if needed)

3. DuroMax XP7HPE

Key Specifications 208cc displacement

7 hp

9.7 ft/lb of maximum torque

3/4″ diameter shaft

44 lbs weight Check price on Amazon

The Duromax XP7HPE is a Honda GX200 clone with electric start. Its performance and design are very similar to the GX200, but just like other clones, it is cheaper than the original Honda engine.

It comes with an electric start so you don’t have to get out of the kart to start it every time it stops. Compared to the Predator 212, this engine produces slightly more power and torque in stock condition, but displacement is 4cc less than the Predator 212.

You can also add an electric start kit to a Predator 212 engine, but that brings the cost to the same price as Duromax XP7. So if electric start is a must for you, then this is the motor to buy.

Most GX200/Predator 212 Non-Hemi performance parts will also fit this engine. But some parts don’t fit together. If you want to make changes, it’s best to stick with the Predator 212 or Tillotson 212.

Pros: Best electric start small block engine

Simply available

Generates plenty of torque and power. Disadvantages: Internal parts can fail at very high speeds.

Some replacement parts can be difficult to find

4. Honda GX200

Key Specifications 196cc displacement

5.8 hp

9.1 ft/lb of maximum torque

3/4″ diameter shaft

35 pounds weight

The original Honda GX200 makes our list as the most reliable engine on the market. Most other go kart engines are either partial or full clones of the GX200 and while the clones are cheaper and in most cases perform better, the original Honda engine will outlast most if not all.

The engine is 196cc, which is 16cc less than the Predator 212. It also produces almost 1 hp less than the Predator 212. However, top speed is about the same (3600 rpm, 20-30 mph). The replacement/performance parts are readily available for Honda engines.

Pros: Durable

Simply available

Easily available spares and performance parts Cons: Very expensive with no performance advantage compared to its clones.

5. Briggs and Stratton 13R232

Key Specifications 208cc displacement

6.5 hp

9.5 ft/lb maximum torque

3/4″ diameter shaft

39 lbs weight Check price on Amazon

How can we make a “best engines” list and not include Briggs and Stratton? Their reputation speaks for itself, as does Honda. The 13R232 is a horizontal shaft engine and is similar in size to the GX200 or other small block engines and can be used to easily replace your existing engine.

The specifications of this engine are almost the same as the 7 hp Duromax engine, but just like Honda, the Briggs and Stratton engines are expensive. They can make up for their price with their durability.

Pros: Very durable

Great support Cons: Very expensive

Replacement parts can be difficult to find

6. Tillotson 225

Key Specifications 225cc displacement

17 hp

3/4″ diameter shaft

39 lbs weight Check price on GoPowerSport

What fun will the list be if we don’t include at least one race engine? Please note that if you plan to race your go kart on your local tracks you must ensure that using this engine is not against the rules.

The Tillotson 225 is a 4-stroke engine, unlike the other racing engines which are usually 2-stroke. Performance wise this engine is comparable to a Stage 4 Predator 212 and if you compare the price of building a Stage 4 Predator to this engine the Tillotson 225 is cheaper.

It produces a whopping 17+ horsepower and you can hit over 7000 rpm, which is enough to propel you to 60-70 mph (depending on your gear ratio and other factors).

Note: This motor is not for novice drivers and certainly not a motor to buy if you are building a go-kart for your kids. This engine is ideal for racers with experience in engine building.

Pros: Extremely fast

Performance similar to a Tier 4 Predator 212 for $100-150 less

Light weight Cons: Not for beginners and children

7. DuroMax XP18HPE

Key Specifications 440cc displacement

18 hp

26.26 ft/lb of maximum torque

1″ diameter shaft

78 pounds weight

16.4″L x 17.9″W x17.4″H Check price on Amazon

Our final 3 picks are all big block engines ranging from 13 to 16 hp and this engine is our pick for best big block engine. It produces very high power and torque and the best thing about this engine is that you can get it for almost the same price as a GX200! This is impressive.

They are physically much larger than the above motors, their shaft diameter is also larger than the above motors. Its displacement is more than twice that of the Predator 212 and it can produce more than twice the power of a stock Predator 212.

The engine speed is factory limited to 3600 rpm, you can’t get any faster with this engine compared to the small block engines (at least in the original condition), the speed controller can be removed and that makes your go-kart really fast. Remember that a more powerful engine can always go faster than a less powerful engine.

Why and when should you buy this engine? If you want to power a heavy go kart or maybe even a mini buggy then this motor is perfect. Its high torque will also get your go-kart up to high speed very quickly, meaning the acceleration of your go-kart will be very high with this motor.

Pros: Very cheap

Largest displacement of any big-block engine

Readily Available Disadvantages: Internal parts can fail at very high speeds.

Some replacement parts can be difficult to find

8. Predator 420

Key Specifications 420cc displacement

13 hp

18.4 ft/lb of maximum torque

1″ diameter shaft

73 pounds weight

18.9″L x 13.8″W x17.1″H Check price on Amazon

It is advertised as a “great GX390 replacement” which is a perfect way of describing this engine, a cheaper and more powerful GX390. Note: This motor is cheaper if you buy it from your local Harbor Freight store instead of buying it from an online store.

Just like the other big block engines on our list, this engine produces a lot of power and torque, making it ideal for heavier karts. RPM is limited to 3600.

The governor can be removed and just like the 212cc Predator, the 420cc Predator can be heavily modified with readily available performance parts.

Pros: Very cheap

Engine is readily available

Performance parts are readily available. Disadvantages: Internal parts can fail at very high speeds.

9. Honda GX390

Key Specifications 390cc displacement

12 hp

19.5 ft/lb of maximum torque

1″ diameter shaft

69 pounds weight

16″L x 19.1″W x 17.7″H

The original 390cc Honda engine is again the best in terms of quality and just like Honda’s small block (GX200), the big block is very expensive compared to its clones.

It has slightly less displacement compared to the Predator 420 and produces slightly less power. 3600 rpm is the factory limit of the engine. Replacement parts and performance parts can be found easily.

Pros: Durable

Simply available

Easily available spares and performance parts Cons: Very expensive with no performance advantage compared to its clones.

understanding of the specifications

Seeing all those numbers in the specs section can be intimidating. But once you understand them, it will be easier for you to choose the right engine. Therefore, you will find a brief explanation of all terms and their meaning here.

rotational speed

RPM is short for revolutions per minute, motor RPM means how many times a motor shaft rotates in one minute.

When you step on your vehicle’s accelerator pedal, the motor shaft rotates faster and your vehicle moves faster. The faster the crankshaft rotates, the faster your go-kart will move.

The engines used in go-karts are generally general purpose engines and are limited to 3600 rpm. This is because most tasks require the engine to maintain 3600 rpm for optimal performance. Since our purpose is only go-karts, we can remove these sliders to get a higher top speed.

Please note that making any modifications will void your warranty/guarantee and some internal parts of the engine may fail at high RPM. Tillotson engines and Predator engines are the best for all modifications.

torque

“Torque is a turning force produced by the crankshaft of an engine”. Without getting into the physical/mechanical definition, more torque usually means more acceleration. With an engine that produces more torque, it’s also easier to climb hills and ride off-road trails.

Perfomance:

Power is simply RPM x Torque. The more power your engine produces, the higher the RPM of your engine can be. The more power your engine produces, the more work it can do in less time.

frequently asked Questions

What engine do you need for a go-kart?

A go kart engine is typically a 4-stroke engine that produces 5-16 horsepower. The motor must be a horizontal shaft motor with a shaft diameter of 3/4″ to 1″.

What is a good engine size for a go kart? (Small Block vs. Big Block Engine)

Small-block engines with 5-7 hp are sufficient for almost every go-kart. Especially if you are building a go-kart for kids.

But that doesn’t stop people from using engines that make even more than 20 hp. 20 hp is extremely high and even an experienced go-kart driver can have problems with such go-karts.

Therefore, 13-16 hp engines are popular among people who are looking for more powerful engines. Check out our Predator 212 vs. Predator 420 comparison for a more detailed comparison between small-block and big-block engines.

How fast can you go with these engines? (maximum speed calculator)

Most engines are factory limited to 3600 rpm which means your go kart can reach 20-30 mph (exact top speed depends on your setup).

To calculate your engine’s top speed, you need to know the engine’s maximum RPM, the diameter of your rear wheel, and your gear ratio. Use our calculator to find out the top speed of your go kart.

Vertical Shaft Gasoline Engines Vertical shaft lawn mower engines are an incredibly popular engine choice among small push mower owners due to their lightweight construction, smooth handling and overall effective drive systems. We stock a wide range of quality vertical shaft engines from industry leading brands such as Kawasaki, Briggs and Stratton and Koehler, all combining effortlessly effortless operation with strong performance. This makes these models the most efficient and valuable engines on the market! Our inventory of vertical shaft engines for sale are competitively priced making it one of the most popular online gas engine dealers across the country! These motors are also commonly used in go-karts, small electric bicycles and other small industrial or construction machines. Our vertical shaft go kart engines give you the ultimate speed, power and control while zipping through different landscapes and terrains. Explore our inventory of professional quality vertical shaft motors today and save on some of the best brands in the business!

One of the factors that most influences both the performance of a lawn/garden tractor and the price is the engine.

Small riding mowers typically have vertical shaft, single cylinder, air-cooled gasoline engines. Lawn tractors and lawn and garden tractors can have single-cylinder, air-cooled, vertical or horizontal-shaft gasoline engines. Garden tractors usually have horizontal shaft engines, which can be single or multi-cylinder, air or liquid-cooled, and petrol or diesel. Almost all compact tractors have water-cooled multi-cylinder diesel engines (usually 3 or 4).

cylinder

Single-cylinder engines are less expensive and are used when less power is required. Multi-cylinder engines are not only more powerful, but also quieter (less vibration). Three-cylinder engines are particularly smooth-running. Multi-cylinder engines are also more complicated, more expensive, and have more serviceable parts.

Vertical or horizontal

The smaller engines used in ride-on mowers and smaller tractors are typically vertical shaft engines (Figure 1). This means that the piston reciprocates in a horizontal direction and rotates a vertical crankshaft. Since the crankshaft is vertical, the mower can be driven directly with a belt. Most larger engines have a horizontal crankshaft (Figure 2). This design can make the tractor driveline more direct, but typically requires more power transmission components for the mower deck.

Air or water cooled

Small, low-power engines are air-cooled. This means that the engine block has cooling fins over which a fan blows air to dissipate engine heat. This cooling method is inexpensive and effective on small engines, but care must be taken to keep the cooling fins clean to avoid overheating. Liquid-cooled engines (Figure 3) cost more. They use a mixture of water and antifreeze that is circulated through the engine block and then through a radiator. The liquid absorbs heat from the engine, then the air blown through the radiator extracts the heat from the liquid. Liquid-cooled engines maintain more consistent temperatures and therefore can have a longer lifespan with less maintenance.

petrol or diesel

Gasoline engines use spark plugs to ignite the fuel-air mixture. Diesel engines have no spark plugs; They have a much higher compression ratio and the heat generated by the compression of the air in the cylinders ignites the fuel-air mixture as the fuel is injected into the cylinders. Diesel engines are more expensive, heavier and noisier. They also last longer and use diesel fuel, which can be cheaper. In many areas you can buy untaxed diesel fuel for off-road use; it is significantly cheaper than petrol. It is also much safer to work with diesel fuel as it is not nearly as flammable under most conditions. Fuel cleanliness is much more important with diesels; Don’t buy diesel unless you are willing to maintain a separate fuel supply from other garden equipment and keep the fuel very clean.

Horizontal shaft motors

utility player. When it comes to engines, sometimes you need a jack of all trades. The perfect little engine to power the tools you use to maintain your home and garden, such as a tiller, log splitter, pressure washer, water pump or portable generator. Count on our versatile and durable commercial vehicle engines to perform consistently and start easily, no matter how tough the job.

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Vertical engines differ from horizontal units in a number of ways, including their risk of oil leakage.

By Jim Bryan, Electrical Apparatus Service Association (EASA)

Bearing design is a key difference between vertical motors and horizontal motors, which are vertically mounted. Vertical motors typically drive pumps with thrust bearings. Horizontal motors rarely have this type of bearings. Understanding relevant design and configuration factors is critical when addressing lubrication-related issues that can be associated with vertical motor bearings.

VERTICAL ENGINE MOUNTING CONSTRUCTION

Vertical motors typically have a thrust bearing and a pilot bearing. The thrust bearing is usually located at the top of the engine and can consist of one or more angular contact ball bearings, a spherical roller bearing, or a hydrodynamic plate bearing. The force and direction (up, down, or balanced) of the applied thrust load determines the type and number of thrust bearings required to achieve optimum performance and life.

Figure 1 at the top of the page shows a typical vertical motor with the thrust bearings on top. If the top bracket and bearing in the illustration were replaced with a Conrad deep groove ball bearing, the motor would look very similar to a horizontal motor. The bearing opposite the thrust bearing (usually the lower one) is called the pilot bearing (Figure 2). This pilot bearing is usually a Conrad bearing and fixes the lower end of the motor shaft. It is often grease lubricated, although the load on the thrust bearing requires oil lubrication.

Although there is little or no loading on the pilot bearing during normal operation, it may be necessary to handle a momentary thrust in the opposite direction (upward thrust) of the thrust bearing. Instantaneous thrust is defined as no more than 30% of standard high thrust for no more than 10 seconds.

THRUST CLASSIFICATIONS

Vertical engines are classified as normal thrust, in-line thrust, or high thrust. Normal thrust loads can be found from tables based on engine speed and power rating. High thrust is a multiple of normal thrust, e.g. e.g. 175%, 250% and 300%.

We’ll see later in this article how the bearings are arranged to accommodate each of these thrust levels. (Note: Single-speed, close-coupled pump motors have limited external thrust, so the usual thrust classifications do not apply.)

Angular contact ball bearings are the most common types of thrust bearings. A single bearing is used for normal axial loads; two bearings in tandem (Fig. 3) for 175% of normal thrust capacity (placing two bearings in tandem does not double thrust capacity); and a stack of three bearings for 250% normal thrust (see table above). Stacks of up to five bearings have been reported.

Spherical roller bearings (Fig. 4) are used where even higher axial loads are encountered, such as in very deep wells where the weight of the water column, pump shaft, impeller and water moving force can be several thousand pounds. Spherical roller bearings can carry 300% to 500% of the normal axial load.

A hydrodynamic bearing, also known as a tilting pad, plate or Kingsbury bearing (fig. 5), is suitable for extremely high axial loads and a very long service life. As with plain bearings in horizontal engines, there is theoretically no wear on the plates as the load is carried on a film of oil separating the moving parts.

SPECIAL BREAKDOWN

Occasionally pump designs will exceed instantaneous upthrust limits (more common in dual pole [3000/3600rpm] applications) and the pilot bearing will not be able to accommodate that thrust for the required duration. In such cases, the upper bearings are arranged face-to-face or back-to-back. Note that in back-to-back bearings, the thrust transfer occurs in opposite directions (see arrows in Fig. 6). This configuration also requires additional parts. For example, a hold down ring must be placed on the upper bearing outer ring and secured to the upper bracket to prevent buoyancy from lifting the bearings out of the bearing bore. A nut or spiral lock washer must also be installed on the bearing carrier below the lower bearing inner race to prevent buoyancy from pushing the bearings off the bracket.

Oil leak problems

Vertical engines are unique in their ability to transmit external thrust. The thrust bearings that make this possible require care in assembly and application for optimal service and performance. Unfortunately, these bearings also put vertical motors at risk for several lubrication-related problems. That’s because many of them are lubricated with oil bath reservoirs, which in turn can develop leaks that can be difficult to diagnose and fix. Causes of oil leaks include loose standpipes (the part that defines the inner perimeter of the reservoir), moving the engine with oil in the reservoir, overfilling the reservoir, water ingress, machine tool marks, and foaming. The following tips can help ensure leak-free performance:

• When disassembling a leaking vertical motor, carefully inspect the space between the shaft and the inside of the upper tube. Oil observed in this area limits the scope of the investigation as the oil must flow over the standpipe to get there. Leaks of this type are often caused by overfilling the reservoir or by the sloshing action resulting from the movement of the engine with oil in the reservoir. If the engine base is more than one degree off level, the oil level reading in the sight glass will be inaccurate and may cause the oil to be above the standpipe.

• If there is no oil between the shaft and the inside of the upper tube, make sure the upper tube and oil sight glass are tight and secure. Before cleaning the mount, check the underside for oil that has collected near potential cracks. Regardless of whether oil is found, steam clean the bracket and place it on a clean sheet of kraft paper. Fill the reservoir with light oil or any other liquid that will seep through cracks, being careful not to use water or solvents that could later contaminate the oil. Leave the holder in this state for several hours, then carefully lift it to inspect the paper for signs of leakage.

Some cracks do not open until the engine is up to operating temperature. If the paper is still clean after several hours, place the mount in an oven on top of clean kraft paper and fill the container with light oil. Heat it to 100°C for several hours before checking the paper for signs of leakage.

Cracks can be repaired by grinding a V-notch, drilling the crack and welding with nickel rods. For more information on this procedure, see the EASA Manual, Mechanical Repair Fundamentals of Electric Motors, 2nd Edition.

Small cracks can be sealed by sandblasting and thoroughly cleaning the oil reservoir and then applying a quality oil resistant epoxy paint. If no cracks are found and the reservoir is still leaking, the bracket may need to be replaced.

• Water in the oil in the form of condensation displaces the lubricant and raises the level above the top of the upper tube. In very humid environments where the engine is idling intermittently, oil pan heaters help prevent condensation.

• Foaming from contaminants such as water or solvents will also raise the oil level, but this should not be confused with the air bubbles that normally form when the bearings stir up the oil. Air bubbles disappear quickly when the engine is stopped. Foaming caused by water or solvents lasts much longer. If flushing the oil and replacing with clean new oil doesn’t fix the problem, adding about 30ml of an antifoam such as B. silicone oil, the foaming.

• Machining the ID of the bearing retainer often leaves tool marks that can create skewed, screw-like threads. If the engine rotates in the direction of these threads, oil can be lifted up the standpipe. An effective countermeasure is to machine a 0.25 inch hole. Radius groove no more than 0.125 inch. deep on the ID (inside diameter) of the bearing mount, just below the top of the upper tube (Fig. 7), then drill three equally spaced .125″ holes. holes around the bottom of the groove. As oil sucks up the ID of the bracket, it collects in the groove and is forced through the holes back into the sump by centrifugal force before it can pass over the tube. EP

Jim Bryan is a Technical Support Specialist at the Electrical Apparatus Service Association (EASA), St. Louis. EASA is an international trade association of 1,850 companies in nearly 70 countries that sell and service electromechanical equipment. Visit www.easa.com for more information.

” ” The search for the perfect lawn can be accomplished with the help of a lawn mower. RL Productions/Getty Images

Lawns used to be green country pastures tended by the sheep and other animals that grazed them. Today, powerful tractors, robots, and even hovercrafts keep order and order, but most share one thing in common – a rotating blade powered by a motor.

Before the mid-20th century, lawn mowers were mostly cylinder mowers with a cylindrical blade that received all of its power from the person pushing it. British engineer Edwin Bunning invented the first in 1830, and the first internal combustion engine lawn mower was launched in 1902. An electric version became available in 1926.

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But after World War II, with the development of suburban housing and the larger lots that came with it, a new type of lawn mower emerged. The push mower just wouldn’t cut for these new lawns.

As small engines became more powerful, a new type of lawnmower that could cut larger and longer swaths of grass became more popular. Instead of cutting grass like scissors cut paper like a reel mower does, the rotary mower spins a horizontal blade fast enough to cut the grass when it hits it.

The blade sits in a housing called the deck that prevents the grass and other objects from flying in all directions when hit. Typically, the mower deck rides on four wheels that carry a motor and a bag attached to collect the cut grass.

The basic version of a rotary mower has handlebars attached to it, which the operator stands behind and squeezes to move it forward. Self-propelled versions have a transmission that uses the power of the engine to turn the wheels. Of course, not everyone wants to walk behind their mower, and some people have lawns big enough that they need something with more power and larger cutting areas. For them, the ride-on lawn mower is the answer to their lawn care needs.

And if you’re looking for something more unique, there are hovercraft lawnmowers that ride on an air curtain instead of wheels, and robotic lawnmowers that don’t require a human operator at all.

Yet these mowers all need the same things to function properly – an engine, a rotating blade, a means of locomotion, and a way to dispose of the grass clippings. In this article, we’ll look at each of these systems and what it takes to keep the garden looking good.

Q: Some University of Florida publications on lawn grasses talk about vertical mowing. What is vertical mowing?

A: The typical lawn mowers used in the home environment are called rotary mowers because the blades move in a horizontal plane. Vertical mowers have blades that move in a vertical (up/down) plane. This type of mower can be used to remove thatch. When the thatch layer exceeds 1 inch, it can be removed by vertical mowing or “scarifying” in early spring to mid-summer. It’s a messy process and difficult for most homeowners to work properly.

Scarifying uses vertical blades that cut through the straw and lightly into the ground, resulting in large portions of dead material being removed from the top of the lawn. Usually the blades are about three inches apart, which works best for St. Augustinegrass. This type of mowing can cause serious damage to the grass and requires a recovery period, so it is best done when the grass is actively growing. Scarifying should only be done in one direction – not in cross sections. Scarifying tears up large amounts of grass and straw that need to be cleaned and removed.

It is important to mow the grass immediately after scarifying, but be sure to mow at the highest level – never clip or cut the lawn too short. Water the scarified lawn immediately to avoid drying out exposed roots. A week after vertical mowing, you can apply 15-0-15 fertilizer at a rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet to encourage recovery. Pour the fertilizer immediately to avoid burning the grass. Regular topdressing (adding an even layer of soil or sand over the grass) with ¼ inch of soil equal to current soil is the best method for reducing thatch buildup. When topdressing, be sure to use soil free of weed seeds and nematodes, and be careful not to exceed recommended topdressing rates. Adding too much soil or organic matter promotes large (brown) spot disease.

A gearbox transmits the power of a lawn mower engine in forward and reverse motion. It sounds like a made-up word, and I suppose it is. It is a cross between the words gear and axle.

So what is a lawnmower gearbox? A mower transaxle is a single mechanical assembly that combines the functions of a transmission, differential and axle. The word transaxle describes both the type of transmission and the axle structure in a vehicle.

Combining all of these separate components into one integrated unit was a stroke of genius, and this post explains why it’s so clever.

Mower trans axis

What is a gear?

Before the invention of the gearbox, the gearbox, differential and drive axles were all separate assemblies. All of these separate components have a different job (more on that later) and, as you can imagine, were quite bulky, making it a challenge to fit them into a small area.

The gearbox is compact and combines all the functions of each assembly, its main function is to transmit engine power in forward motion. Depending on how sophisticated it is, you can have reverse movement and variable speed controls. Trans axles are the normal fitment in all front wheel drive cars and most people will refer to a trans axle as a gearbox or gearbox assembly.

All lawnmowers have axles, but unless they are engine driven, they don’t have a transmission. Most walk behind self-propelled mowers are rear-wheel drive and have the gearbox mounted at the rear, but some utility mowers, for example, are front-wheel drive and therefore have the gearbox mounted at the front. Rear-wheel drive is better for hilly terrain where you need good traction, and front-wheel drive is better for a garden with a lot of shrubs and flower beds, they are more maneuverable.

Transaxle Mowers for Walk-Behind Mowers – Transaxle mowers driven by the engine pulley via the drive belt. Higher quality walk behind self-propelled lawn mowers have variable speed controls.

Tractor Drive Axle – A lawn tractor drive axle is located at the rear of the mower, it is usually quite bulky and well defined, with a thick wheel on either side. Like a car, lawn tractor transmissions are either manual or automatic. The gear-driven transaxles have a clutch pedal and a gear selector switch, the brakes are also mounted on the transaxle.

The Auto version has variable speed forward and reverse pedals and is usually hydrostatic (oil pressure operated) or CVT type. The highly manoeuvrable zero-turn mowers are somewhat unique in that they have two hydrostatic transaxles, one for each rear wheel. This setup helps them spin tight just like a shopping cart.

Transaxles are known to be driven by engine power. A belt from the engine pulley, mounted just above the blade, transfers power to the transaxle pulley. Spinning the transaxle pulley on some basic transaxle types causes the mower to move, on other, more sophisticated types the transaxle pulley spins as soon as the engine starts and a lever (usually a pedal) must be in front of the actual mower be actuated moved.

Tractor Transaxle Drive Pulley – The tractor mower transaxle pulley is driven from the engine crankshaft by means of the belt (usually Kevlar).

Common trans-axle problems

Mostly they are quite durable, belt breakage and wear are common problems with both walk behind and tractor mower geared axles.

Transmissions for walk behind mowers are operated by pulling and holding a lever, the lever is operated by cables, and they need timely adjustment and replacement. Almost all gears are oiled for life meaning you don’t have to dive or top up, if you can’t on most there is no access.

Hydrostatic models require topping up with oil, they usually have a plastic oil reservoir mounted on top of the gearbox. A special type of oil (20w50) is used for topping up, and the system must be bled, but this is not difficult.

Tractor mower axle brakes need adjustment, pads may need replacing, and non-working brakes are common. Some tractors are fitted with a Constantly Variable Transmission (CVT) and as they age, belt wear and non-OEM fitted belts can cause many problems.

What is a transfer?

A mower transmission, as the word suggests, converts rotary motion (rotating the engine) into linear motion (mower moves forward or backward). Mowers most commonly use two types of transmissions – gear driven and hydrostatic. The gear-driven type is very simple, the common manual lawn tractor transmission (the manual type is usually called a gearbox) has 5 forward gears and one reverse gear.

A basic walk-behind mower transmission has one gear ratio, but the higher-end variable-speed transmission may have a Constant Variable Transmission (CVT) or variable-slip type configuration.

Gear driven gearbox with integrated differential

What is an axis?

As you know, your mower’s wheels are attached to the axle. The role of the axle is to support the weight of the mower, securely attach the drive assembly to the mower, and hold the wheels in place. The genius of the gearbox is that the outer casing is the axle, it supports the weight of the mower and is rigidly connected to the mower chassis. The axle contains all the oily bits, the drive shafts and the differential.

The job of the differential is to allow one wheel to move independently of the other. This is useful when cornering, as the outside wheels go farther than the inside wheels. A mower’s axle structure doesn’t cause much trouble and apart from removing grass and dirt from the cooling fins, it requires no maintenance.

Axle – This (usually) supports the weight of the mower and keeps the wheels attached to the chassis.

related questions

What does a hydrostatic mower mean on a ride-on mower? A hydrostatic ride-on mower refers to the type of transmission installed. A hydrostatic mower is like a car with an automatic transmission, it runs on oil pressure and by incrementally pressing a single pedal or lever it gets faster.

Do I need a ride-on mower? If your yard is more than 3/4 acre or you feel overwhelmed pushing a walk mower, then you need a ride on mower or a robotic mower.