Grow A Tree Easy Game? The 230 Detailed Answer

Planting trees from seed can be one of the most rewarding gardening activities, but tree seeds often require a little more preparation than many ordinary flower or vegetable seeds.

In most cases, there are two ways to start tree seeds: the natural route, which often involves sowing the seeds in the fall, or through forced or “assisted” germination, which is done indoors first.

The natural way to germinate tree seeds

Seeds have been sprouting and trees have been growing without human intervention for an awfully long time. So the “natural way” to germinate tree seeds is to let nature take its course. Most seeds, if sown in the fall without pre-treatment, will begin to germinate the following spring. Be sure to sow the seeds at the recommended depth. Planting seeds too deep can delay or inhibit the spring germination process. For some seed varieties, germination may extend over two or three years, with some seeds germinating in the first spring and others taking longer to break dormancy and germinate.

It’s important to remember that many species come from cooler climates, where seeds fall to the ground and are covered by leaves in the fall. Over the winter, the seeds remain bedded in this cool, moist environment. When the warm spring weather arrives, the seeds then begin the germination process. In many types of seed, the embryo within the seed is immature and unable to germinate (this is known as the “dormant state”) until it matures in this manner. Delaying the germination process is essential for the survival of many tree species. In a natural forest, if the seeds germinated immediately when they fell on the ground in late summer or autumn, the tender seedlings would die off in the cold winter.

Forced or “assisted” germination

Although natural germination is an acceptable way to start most tree seeds, better and more consistent results can sometimes be achieved with forced or “assisted” germination. Basically, it means using different techniques to mimic nature’s role when it comes to germinating tree seeds.

There are several techniques that can be involved to force a particular tree seed to germinate. Please read carefully the recommended steps listed on each individual seed pack.

Many seeds require one or more treatment steps to stimulate the germination process. The three steps are: 1) scarification, 2) cold stratification, and 3) warm stratification. Keep in mind that not all seeds require all of these steps. In fact, some seeds require no pre-treatment at all.

scarification

Scarification is the process of reducing or breaking open the seed coat to allow moisture to enter and the embryo to begin the germination process. Scarification is usually required for seeds with dense or hard seed coats. Many tree seeds don’t require scarification, and for those that do, the most common treatment is a simple soak in water.

Hard seed coats can be broken down by a) soaking in water, b) physically or mechanically fracturing the seed coat, or c) chemical or acid treatment (not normally required).

a) Water Soak: Pour water over the seeds and let them soak for the recommended time, often 6 to 24 hours. Most water treatments are performed with room temperature water. It is best to use a glass container to soak the seeds. Some seeds may require hot water according to directions. Follow the above instructions and use water at the recommended temperature.

b) Physical/Mechanical: Using a small file or sandpaper, rub the outside of the seed coat to reduce its density or to score the seed coat to allow moisture to enter the embryo more easily. Be careful not to damage the seed embryo.

c) Chemical (Acid) Wash: The chemical wash method of scarifying is commonly used by commercial growers for selected seed varieties and is often not required for home gardening purposes. If you try it, you might want to consult a more detailed log and follow these basic guidelines:

1) Wear safety goggles and protective clothing. Wash immediately if something is spilled on your skin

2) Use a large glass or jar

3) Place seeds in the dry glass container

4) Add the sulfuric acid concentrate in an amount about twice the volume of the seeds

5) Stir the mixture with a glass rod

6) Periodically check the seed for layer thickness by extracting some seeds and cutting them in half with secateurs. Even in the same batch, shell thickness can vary from seed to seed.

7) After soaking the seeds, decant acid and seeds through a sieve and wash under cold water for 5 to 10 minutes

8) Spread the seeds on a piece of paper and leave to dry at room temperature. – Be careful to spread the seeds out so they don’t clump together

cold stratification

Stratification is the process of mimicking the natural overwintering process by exposing the seeds to cool, moist conditions. The easiest way to do the layering process is:

1) Take a few handfuls of peat moss and soak it in water until saturated

2) After soaking, use your hands to squeeze out as much water as possible

3) Place a layer of the moist peat moss at the bottom of a zip-top plastic sandwich bag

4) Place the seeds on the layer and fill the rest of the bag with the peat moss

5) Seal the bag

6) Keep the sealed bag on the bottom of the refrigerator for the appropriate stratification time.

During the cold stratification process, occasionally check the seeds for signs of early germination. When the seeds begin to germinate in the fridge, remove and plant as usual.

After the prescribed stratification time in the refrigerator, remove the seeds and sow as usual.

Warm layering

The warm stratification step is designed to mimic the seed’s summer dormancy when it is often embedded in warm, moist soil or mud. For warm stratification, follow the same steps as for cold stratification, except place the ziplock bag in a warm location at or slightly above room temperature for a target temperature range of approximately 72 to 86 degrees F. (Often placing the bag on top of the refrigerator accomplishes this.)

During the warm stratification process, occasionally check the seeds for signs of early germination. When the seeds begin to germinate, plant as usual.

Plant the seeds

Seeds can be sown in individual containers or in seed trays. It is important to ensure seeds are planted at the recommended soil depth. Most tree seeds are planted much more shallowly than other annual seeds, but it usually depends on the size of the seed. Please follow the instructions on each seed pack for the appropriate planting depth. Seeds should be sown in a well-drained medium, such as a mix of peat moss and vermiculite.

When sowing the seeds, fill the container or seed tray to about ½ inch from the top with the moist medium (soil). Level the media by gently shaking or sticking the container.

For larger seeds—that are over 1/3 inch tall—squeeze half of the seed into the medium. Scatter smaller seeds lightly over the soil’s surface. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of sand to a thickness of about the thickness of the seed.

After planting the seeds, water them gently, keeping them moist but not wet. Maintaining high humidity and relative humidity is critical for germinating seeds. You can increase humidity by enclosing the seed tray in a plastic tent. Be sure to poke a few holes in the plastic cover to allow for proper airflow. Keep the trays in a warm but dimly lit place.

Depending on the species and environmental conditions, germination can take as little as a few days or several months. Once the seeds germinate, move the seedlings to a lighter spot. You may need to nurture the seedlings indoors for a few months before planting them outdoors. Try to give the young plants as much sunlight as possible.

How trees grow

The buds, root tips and the cambium layer are the three growing parts of the tree. Buds elongate the branches and broaden the crown (branches and leaves), the cambium layer gives the tree diameter, and the root tips elongate to support the tree’s growth.

In addition, the roots absorb water and nutrients from the soil, which are then transported to the leaves through the sapwood or xylem. Water and nutrients are then combined with carbon dioxide from the air and sunlight to create food through a process known as photosynthesis. This nourishment is carried by the inner bark or phloem to all growing parts of the tree, even down to the root tips

Click here to go to the life cycle of a tree.

buds

Buds are tiny leaves, stems, and flowers that are contained in a small enclosure at the base of each leaf. Buds are formed during the summer months for the following year. Each spring, when the tree awakens from dormancy, the scales fall off and the tree’s leaves, stems, and flowers open and grow.

The tree increases in height and crown spread of branches each year as the buds produce a new growth of branches. Air provides carbon, which is absorbed through stomata, or small holes or pores, on the leaf surfaces. Leaves process the food obtained from the soil from carbon, sunlight, water and nutrients and release moisture through transpiration. Trees produce oxygen as a byproduct through the photosynthetic process.

root

Root tips produce new growth and absorb water and nutrients from the soil. The taproot grows straight down while the lateral roots branch out. In addition, the roots provide anchoring support for the tree. Roots use oxygen from the soil to carry out the growth process. Soil compaction or an abundance of water is usually detrimental to tree growth. Some trees, such as B. Baldcypress, however, have adapted to grow in humid conditions with a limited oxygen supply.

floors

Soil is one of the determining factors for what vegetation is present in an area. Some of the influences on existing vegetation types include: soil acidity, alkalinity and salinity; Saturation; characteristics of the topsoil and subsoil; soil composition (sand, silt, clay); Soil structure and compaction. There are thousands of floor series. New series and phases (subdivisions) are classified every day. Each series has different characteristics, although there may be some similarities in other series.

trunk

The outer bark protects the inner layers of wood from injury, pests and disease. The layers of wood are hidden under the bark of the tree. The inner bark, or phloem, transports synthesized nutrition from the leaves to the cambium layer and other growing parts of the tree. The cambium layer is microscopic and actively builds the cells that produce more wood and bark. Sapwood or xylem carries sap or water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves. The heartwood (deadwood or inactive wood) is the center of the tree, providing strength and support.

Seasonal Changes

Most tree growth occurs in late spring and early summer. During most of the growing season, trees (plants) produce a material called chlorophyll. Chlorophyll allows plants to convert water and carbon dioxide in the presence of sunlight into carbohydrates that plants use as food. This process is called photosynthesis. Chlorophyll gives plants their green color. Tree leaves are other colors most of the time, but the green chlorophyll is so dominant that it masks the other colors until fall.

Late spring and early summer is typically the time when the flowers turn into fruit and the crown develops a full canopy. In addition, a new layer of wood is added around the trunk, branches and roots. These layers are called growth rings. A light ring (or earlywood) grows during this time of year when there is usually more rain. The shape and width of the annual rings reflect what type of year the tree is experiencing. A wide growth ring may indicate that the tree had a year of optimal conditions. A tight growth ring can be the result of drought, competition with other trees for nutrients and sunlight, or other factors.

In autumn, the production of the layers of wood slows down and a dark annual ring or latewood forms. Most trees spread or disperse their fruit around this time, thereby planting seeds nearby for reproduction. Or some of the fruit may have been eaten by birds or animals, passed through the digestive system, and/or carried to new places for dispersal. The seeds of the fruit are dormant until germination begins in spring.

Also during this time of year, chlorophyll production slows, the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down and the green color fades. In this case, yellow and orange pigments called carotenes and xanthophylls become visible. Red, pink, and purple pigments or anthocyanins may also develop. The main environmental factors that control leaf coloration in fall are temperature, light, and water availability. Cool temperatures (above freezing), drought and bright sunny days favor the production of anthocyanins.

Maple, sassafras, sweetgum, and sumac produce large amounts of anthocyanin, which is responsible for their deep red color. Some trees do not produce anthocyanin pigments. Hickory and elm leaves are an example of this, as they often display bright yellow fall colors. Oak leaves often turn brown with very little yellow or orange coloring. This is because they contain large amounts of tannin, or brown color, and relatively few carotenes.

More information on changing leaf color can be found here (link to article http://txforestservice.tamu.edu/main/popup.aspx?id=209)

Pedagogical Extensions

Project Learning Tree (PLT) is an award-winning environmental education program designed for teachers and educators of pre-kindergarten through 12th grade students. The PLT activity guides are available by attending a one-day workshop. For more information about Texas PLT and workshops in your area, visit http://plttexas.org/. If you cannot find a workshop near you, contact us to arrange an appointment at your facility.

The following activities relate to How Trees Grow from the PLT PreK-8 Activity Guide:

Classes PreK – 2 Each tree for itself (#27)

How plants grow (#41)

Got seed, gonna travel (#43)

The closer you look (#61)

Be a tree (#62)

Tree Factory (#63)

Bursting Buds (#65)

Tree Cookies (#76)

Sign of the Fall (#78)

Tree Life Cycle (#79)

Class 3 – 6 Each Tree for Itself (#27)

Got seed, gonna travel (#43)

The closer you look (#61)

Tree Factory (#63)

Bursting Buds (#65)

Tree Cookies (#76)

Trees in Trouble (#77)

Sign of the Fall (#78)

Tree Life Cycle (#79)

Class 6 – 8 Each Tree for Itself (#27)

Got seed, gonna travel (#43)

Trees in Trouble (#77

For more information on Texas PLT, TEKS correlations and how to get these resources:

Visit – www.plttexas.org or www.plt.org

Texas Project Learning Tree is sponsored by: Texas Forestry Association

Texas A&M Forest Service

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life cycle of a tree

Like all living things, trees have a life cycle—from conception (seed), through birth (sprout), through infancy (seedling), through youth (sapling), to adult (mature), to old age (decay), and finally to death (hook/rotting log). Since trees are renewable, the cycle begins either artificially through planting or naturally with the regeneration of new seeds.

In order for the life cycle to take place, external and internal conditions must be favorable for the tree. This includes adequate space, water, nutrients and sunlight for each species. The tree’s chances of growth and survival during a full cycle improve significantly under these conditions. But even under optimal conditions, various stresses such as insects, disease, injury, competition from other trees, weather, and time itself weaken the tree and can lead to death. Although a cycle can be interrupted at any time for many different reasons, various regeneration methods (seed bank, new seed, root or stump shoot, transplanting, etc.) can start a new cycle again. It may be the same tree, a new tree, or a different tree of a different species, but all trees come from seed.

seed

Think about which came first – the tree or the seed? Regardless of what you believe, the more you learn about them, trees are nothing short of amazing. Seeds come in a variety of shapes, weights, colors, and sizes depending on the species. All seeds develop from the male and female parts of the trees that produce fruit, but not all are readily identifiable or edible. Some seeds are contained within a protective nut such as acorn, pecan, or hickory. Other seeds can be found in fleshy fruits such as black cherries, mulberries or persimmons. The fruit of a pine tree is a cone and the seed is winged, resembling a miniature helicopter as it falls from an open pine cone in the wind.

Wind, water, animals, and people spread seeds across a variety of landscapes, including forest floors, open fields, farmyards, rocky slopes, and roadsides. Wherever conditions are favorable for germination, seeds will sprout and grow.

Sprout

There is an embryo in every seed, but not all seeds will germinate. Favorable environmental conditions allow the embryo to grow, expand, and rupture the seed coat, using the seed’s stored food supply for the necessary energy to grow. The root grows down to the ground to anchor the shoot and seek water and nutrients, while the shoot emerges from the ground seeking sunlight. Ideally, the sprout finds light and then the leaves, needles, or scales continue to develop so the tree can make its own food through photosynthesis.

seedling

The shoot grows persistently and begins to develop woody characteristics. The soft green trunk begins to harden, change color, and develop a thin protective bark. Leaves or needles develop and continue to search for light. The root grows and branches downward and outward, resembling an inverted underground tree with a flattened top. Most of the tree’s roots are in the upper parts of the soil to absorb available water and nutrients, but also to breathe. Like us, tree roots also need oxygen, otherwise they die. The seedling must compete with other trees and plants for its share of nutrients, water, sunlight and space. Other threats include fire, floods, drought, ice and snow, disease, insect infestation, and being eaten by animals. At this stage, the tree is most vulnerable to being killed. If it survives these early years unscathed, the seedling is well on its way to the next phase of the cycle.

seedling

A sapling is a small tree, typically between 1 and 4 inches in diameter at 4.5 feet. This is the standard height at which the diameter of a tree is measured – diameter at breast height (DBH). Typically, a seedling is the size of a tree grown at a commercial nursery for transplanting into your garden. In this juvenile state, the tree is not mature enough to reproduce. However, it is growing rapidly. The scion encounters similar types of competition and threats as a seedling.

tires

Under favorable conditions, a sapling will develop into a mature tree. In this phase of the cycle, each tree grows as far as its species and site conditions allow. In addition, flowers develop, reproduction takes place, fruits form and seed dispersal can now occur.

The optimal time to harvest trees for forest products that benefit people is at this stage in the life cycle. In Texas, most products are made from Southern Yellow Pine (Loblolly, Longleaf, Shortleaf, and Slash). Hardwoods such as ash, hickory, mesquite, pecan, and oak are also used, but southern yellow pine is the primary commercially grown species to meet public demand for wood products such as those listed below. Some of the products made from Texas trees include: paper, solid wood, cabinets, moldings, doors, pallets, boxes, crates, trusses, mantels, furniture, stranded oriented strand board (OSB), flooring, cross braces, joists, decking, log homes, posts, Stakes, cooking wood, fences, fuel, interior work, stakes, bridges, pet bedding, mulch, heavy lumber, charcoal, shingles and much more. If a tree is never harvested, it will provide many other benefits over time, but will eventually begin to deteriorate.

Waste

At this point, the survival of the tree is determined by external stresses rather than the vitality of the tree. These stresses stress the tree, making it more susceptible to insects and disease, and it eventually succumbs to a pathogen or to competition from other, stronger-growing plants adjacent to the tree. The end result is no surprise.

hook

The lifespan of a tree is as varied as the number of tree species, yet death is inevitable. Usually it is a combination of factors that eventually overcome a tree and cause it to die. Injury, drought stress followed by disease, rot, root dieback coupled with lightning and insect infestation is just one of many scenarios. However, sometimes it may just be a factor severe enough to cause death. But the cycle does not end here. A standing dead tree, also known as a hook, still plays an important role in the life cycle.

Decomposition takes time. A hook slowly breaks down and returns nutrients to the ground as small twigs, bark and branches fall to the ground. The hook also provides habitat, cover, and food for wildlife and insects. Animals, insects and fungi, in turn, help to break down the tree. Eventually, the hook falls to the ground, gradually returning nutrients to the soil, where they are reabsorbed by other trees, providing for their growth.

And the cycle begins again.

Pedagogical Extensions

Project Learning Tree (PLT) is an award-winning environmental education program designed for teachers and educators of pre-kindergarten through 12th grade students. The PLT activity guides are available by attending a one-day workshop. For more information about Texas PLT and workshops in your area, visit http://plttexas.org/. If you cannot find a workshop near you, contact us to arrange an appointment at your facility.

The following activities relate to How Trees Grow from the PLT PreK-8 Activity Guide:

Classes Before K – 2 We All Need Trees (#13)

Trees as habitat (#22)

Nature’s Recycler (#24)

Each tree for itself (#27)

seed will travel (#43)

Tree Life Cycle (#79)

Grades 3 – 6 We All Need Trees (#13)

Trees as habitat (#22)

The Fallen Log (#23)

Nature’s Recycler (#24)

Class 6 – 8 trees as habitat (#22)

The Fallen Log (#23)

Children’s books that help illustrate the life cycle of a tree include:

The Grandpa Tree by Mike Donahue;

by Mike Donahue; The Life Cycle of an Oak Tree by Angela Royston;

by Angela Royston; The Life Cycle of an Oak by Linda Tagliaferro;

by Linda Tagliaferro; From Acorn to Oak by Jan Koffke;

by Jan Koffke; The Pecan Tree by Barbara Langham

For more information on Texas PLT, TEKS correlations and how to get these resources: Visit – www.plttexas.org or www.plt.org

Texas Project Learning Tree is sponsored by: Texas Forestry Association

Texas A&M Forest Service

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NCERT Solutions for Class 9 English Poem Chapter 8 On Killing A Tree are part of NCERT Solutions for Class 9 English. Here we have given CBSE Class 9 English Poem Chapter 8 On Killing A Tree.

NCERT Solutions to Class 9 Chapter 8 English Poem About Killing a Tree

NCERT textbook questions

thinking about the poem

(Page 111)

I.

Question 1.

Can a “simple knife stab” kill a tree? Why not?

Answers:

No, a simple knife stab does not have the ability to kill the tree. It has to go through different processes. If its root is not removed from the earth, it will sprout again.

question 2

How did the tree grow to its full size? List the words that refer to his life and activities.

Answers:

The tree consumes the earth and rises by feeding on its crust. It absorbs sunlight, air and water for years.

More resources for CBSE Class 9

question 3

What does “bleeding bark” mean? what makes it bleed

Answers:

“Bleeding bark” means the branches that are cut mercilessly. They leave behind a liquid substance. When any part of the human body is cut, it begins to bleed. Likewise, the liquid substance comes out of the branch of a tree. The ax of the people makes them bleed.

question 4

The poet says “No” at the beginning of the third stanza. what does he mean with that?

Answers:

“No” is used to emphasize the perspective that felling or chopping is not enough to kill a tree.

question 5

What do “anchor to earth” and “cave in the ground” mean?

Answers:

This means that the earth protects them like a mother. “Earth Cave” implies a hole in it. The tree lets its roots spread underneath. The earth protects and cares for them. It supplies the tree with all the important ingredients.

question 6

What does he mean by “the strength of the tree bared”?

Answers:

The trunk/root is the strength of a tree. Pulling out the tree reveals its strength.

question 7

What finally kills the tree?

Answers:

Pulling the tree out of mother earth and scorching and suffocating it in the sun and air kills the tree. It turns brown, dry and hard. Eventually it dies.

Further questions

Short answer type questions

Question 1.

How does a tree become strong?

Answers:

A tree gradually grows and expands. Various forces of nature, including the earth, help their growth. A tree grows on the earth, feeding on its crust, absorbing sunlight, air and water for years. It makes you strong.

question 2

How do the sun and air contribute to the death of a tree?

Answers:

The sun and air harden and wither the exposed roots of the tree, killing it. The sun and air are the two essential elements that help a tree grow. Left to their own devices, they will never kill a tree. But if the roots are exposed and left in the sun and air, the tree will wither and die.

question 3

What is the most important thing when killing a tree?

Answers:

The most important thing when killing a tree is to make sure the root is pulled out of the ground. A tree does not suddenly die. As long as the roots in the earth are intact, the tree stays alive.

question 4

How is the tree killed in the end?

Answers:

The tree goes through a process of browning, hardening, twisting and withering. Then the tree is finally killed. A tree takes a long time to kill itself. Only when the roots are exposed, burned and suffocated does the die-off process begin.

question 5

Describe the growth and expansion history of a tree.

Answers:

The story of growth and expansion is gradual and methodical. The seed is sown in the earth. It sprout. It grows slowly and consumes the earth. It feeds on its crust. After years of absorbing sunlight, air and water from the atmosphere, it grows into a tree. Its “leprous skin” sprouts leaves and branches, making it huge.

question 6

Describe the healing power of a tree that keeps it from dying so quickly.

Answers:

It takes a lot of time to kill a tree. Nature gives every tree a healing note that does not let it die. If we cut the bark with a knife, the bleeding bark will heal. Then green twigs appear from near the ground. If left disabled, the tree will expand back to its previous size.

question 7

Describe various processes leading to the eventual death of a rootless tree.

Answers:

The roots are the most delicate parts that have been buried in the ground for years. They give the tree air and water. When a tree is uprooted, it follows certain steps until it eventually dies. It goes through scorching and suffocating in sun and air. Browning, hardening, warping, and withering are the processes that lead to the eventual death of a tree.

Long answer type question

Question 1.

Are you writing the critical appraisal of the poem “On Killing a Tree”?

Answers:

The poem itself is modeled as a plant growing from the seed. The first line says, “It takes a long time to kill a tree.” Then the growth process of the tree is described. The tree is believed to have grown from its seed.

The seed develops the root. The root works its way through the rocks and stones of the soil. The trees grow slowly by feeding on the earth’s crust and absorbing sunlight, air and water for years. There is a struggle during the development of the tree that is alluded to in the poem. The tree’s survival despite efforts to kill it is shown by the lines. “And from close to the ground”.

question 2

Describe root plucking and the various processes of withering and dying of a tree afterwards.

Answers:

The roots are the most delicate parts of a tree. They remain hidden in the ground for years. First, the root must be pulled out of the anchoring earth. It is tied with a rope and pulled out completely. The strength of the tree is fully exposed. Then the process of scorching and choking begins. The rootless tree is scorched in the sunlight. It is suffocated because it cannot get the oxygen from the air it needs to survive. Then the color fades and hardens. It loses its correct shape. It writhes and withers. Eventually it dies.

Value-Based Questions

Question 1.

After reading the poem, what similarities can we see between trees and some great people of yesteryear?

to

Trees live on for years. There are some trees in the Amazon forest that are said to be more than five hundred years old. We can learn from them to spread our roots deep within the earth. There were some great people of yesteryear who still live in our memories. They had spread their roots in our consciousness and consequently refused to die. The hidden root gives all nourishment to a tree. You have to crack this life source to kill a tree.

We hope NCERT Answers to Class 9 Chapter 8 English Poem About Killing a Tree will help you. If you have any questions about CBSE Class 9 English Poem Chapter 8 On Killing A Tree, leave a comment below and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

Trees – like all other living things – need food, water and nutrients to survive. Trees make their own food through photosynthesis, using energy from sunlight, water (from the roots), and carbon dioxide (from the air) to create sugars that are used as fuel for the rest of the tree. Water is transported from the roots to the leaves by xylem cells. Sugar is transported back to the rest of the tree by phloem cells (see diagram below). Sugars are converted to starch and can be stored in the stem or roots or used for immediate growth.

Sectional view of a tree trunk

The amount of photosynthesis that can take place in the leaves is directly related to the amount of water that the roots can absorb. A small root system can only support the photosynthesis of a small canopy, and roots can only grow larger if they get enough energy (sugars) from the leaves. In this way, the tree must balance its growth above and below ground. Topping a tree will stunt its growth by limiting the amount of photosynthesis that can take place in the leaves (btw, NEVER top trees – it’s very dangerous and bad for the tree). Likewise, cutting roots or restricting the growing space of the roots limits the amount of water that can be transported to the leaves for photosynthesis.

Pruning a tree can limit its growth in the short term, but it is very bad for the tree.

What happens after photosynthesis?

Trees are known to act as carbon sinks, absorbing carbon dioxide from the air during photosynthesis and releasing the oxygen that humans breathe. While trees use carbon dioxide to make their own food, they actually need oxygen (much like humans) to convert that food into energy.

To use stored starch for growth, trees must turn the sugar back into energy through a process called respiration. Breathing requires oxygen. During respiration, sugar and oxygen combine to create energy, with water and carbon dioxide being produced as by-products. The energy released can then be used to create new tissue. Humans do the same when processing stored sugars. While trees absorb oxygen from their environment, humans breathe it in through their lungs. Just as a person who is moving needs to breathe deeply, a tree that is actively growing needs an immediate source of oxygen.

Roots need oxygen too!

Most tree growth occurs at the tips of branches and root tips. However, while the crown of a tree is usually surrounded by open air, roots need a source of oxygen in the soil to grow. In soil, air and water reside in small pockets called soil pores. When the soil is dense and compacted (without soil pores), there is not enough oxygen to breathe. Too much water in the soil also limits the amount of oxygen the roots can absorb.

Tree roots grow best when they have adequate growing space and well-drained soil with enough oxygen and water (but not too much water). The depth that oxygen can reach depends on the type of soil and compaction, and most oxygen is near the soil’s surface. Because of this, roots tend to grow just below the surface.

What does this mean for the development of a root system?

Many people think of tree roots as a reflection of branches, but this is a common misconception. Tree roots actually grow horizontally outward from the base of the tree (imagine a wine glass placed on a plate).

Sitting on a plate, this wine glass represents the basic shape of a tree and its roots.

Roots get smaller as they grow outward from the root collar (base of the stem). Buttress roots attached directly to the trunk help stabilize the tree. Woody side roots spread out in the first 3-6 feet, tapering to 2-4 inches in diameter. Lateral roots grow small, short-lived, absorbent roots that suck up water, oxygen, and other nutrients. These roots are opportunistic – they will grow wherever conditions are suitable and die when resources are not available.

Exposed roots of this tree growing on a slope show its horizontal structure

Crowded roots gird this linden tree

In the context of urban trees, infrastructure can severely limit the growing space available for roots. Stay tuned for Part 2 of this blog post – Trees and Sidewalks. We will discuss how sidewalks affect tree health and provide alternatives to traditional sidewalks that could prevent conflicts between trees and infrastructure.

references

Day, S.D., P.E. Wiseman, S.B. Dickinson, & J.R. Harris. 2010. Contemporary concepts of root system architecture of urban trees. Arboriculture and Urban Forestry, 36(4): 149-159.

UC Davis, Fruit and Nut Research and Information Center. No date. photosynthesis and respiration. http://fruitandnuteducation.ucdavis.edu/generaltopics/Tree_Growth_Structure/Photosynthesis_Respiration/

Urban, James. 2008. Up By Roots: Healthy Soils in the Built Environment. Champaign, IL: International Society for Arboriculture.

Balance is important in all aspects of your life. Surprisingly, that includes tree care!

Watering the right amount is important to keep your trees strong and healthy. Both too much and too little watering can be harmful.

If the leaves are brown around the edges and drooping or wilting, your tree may not be getting enough water. On the other hand, green leaves that break easily could mean you’re watering too much.

Just like leaves, roots need oxygen for respiration, the process of turning sugar into energy—think breathing. Soil conditions that are too wet will suffocate the roots and prevent them from receiving oxygen. As a rule of thumb, deep and infrequent watering is optimal for most trees in most situations.

However, the exact amount of water your tree needs depends on the time of year and the age of the tree in the landscape. Read on below to find out how to maintain balance for all your trees!

How Much Should I Water My Young Trees?

Young trees need more care and attention in the first 1-2 years. During their initial establishment phase, trees focus energy and resources on growing their roots, which is why you will see little above-ground growth. The magic happens underground!

By providing the tree with adequate water, you will help develop strong, vigorous roots while encouraging stem and leaf growth.

On the other hand, if you don’t water your newly planted tree enough, your tree may develop minimal roots, suffer from crown dieback, and take longer to establish.

To prepare your new tree for success, about 20 gallons of water per week is recommended. The easiest way to do this is to pour a 5 gallon bucket four times over the drip zone, the part of the ground that the canopy will cover.

Our preferred method of adding water is with a drip hose that runs anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours at a time. This system releases water slowly, which can soften runoff and improve absorption. Note that it will take some experimentation to determine how much water per minute your hose is dispensing.

How Much Should I Water My Mature Trees?

The roots of a mature tree have already spread, so they don’t need that much attention! You can even plan to only water mature trees 1-2 times a month once they are well established.

Depending on the amount of rain and heat in your area, this may vary. Watering more frequently when a drought hits is usually advisable, but resist the urge to overcompensate.

To see if your tree needs water, stick a long screwdriver in the soil. If it is difficult to dent and no soil is sticking to the shaft, water. If the screwdriver penetrates easily and particles stick to it when you pull it out of the soil, the soil is still saturated.

Try deep root irrigation to water the tree less often while making sure it gets the right amount of water!

Some trees can stand the test of time, like Methuselah, the pine tree that has seen thousands of California summers. Then of course there are the trees that hold a special place in our hearts. We can enjoy them for most of our lives – if we take care of them.

So Rachel, a Davey Blog reader from Utah asked, “We have a really old tree in our yard. I’ve noticed dead twigs and branches but otherwise looks healthy.”

She wanted to know how to fix the problem and restore the health of her tree. What are the secrets to keeping a tree healthy and strong for years to come?

How to make a tree healthy again

6 tree care tips to keep trees healthy and strong