Growing Grass Indoors For Tortoise? The 230 Detailed Answer

11401 NE 195. St Bothell, WA 98011

(425) 486-9000 PHONE (425) 486-9002 FAX

www.theexoticvet.com

General information

Testudo horsfieldii is variously known as the Russian, Afghan, Steppe, and Horsfield tortoises. This tortoise is mainly found in Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Southeastern Russia and China. Its original environment is harsh and arid, comprising sandy steppes and grassy areas near springs in dry, rocky, hilly terrain. It occurs at elevations of 5,000 to 7,000 feet. This tortoise has the northernmost range of any known tortoise.

horsfieldii is a great digger. It hibernates in deep burrows in winter, and in the southern parts of its range estivates (experiences a dormant period) in summer. In its natural environment, this turtle is only active for about three months of the year – typically March, April and May.

description

Russian tortoises average five to eight inches long and have a fairly flat, rounded, yellow-green or olive colored carapace (top of carapace). Males are usually smaller than females and are most easily sexed by the male’s tail, which is longer and thicker than the female’s (when the male’s tail is retracted into his shell, it rests against his thigh). The plastron (underside of the shell) is usually mottled black in both males and females, or may be all black.

attitude

These are a hardy species but have some specific needs. Russian tortoises require a very dry, well-drained cage in an indoor enclosure. The enclosure should have appropriate landscaping, with an area for hiding and training, and easy-to-clean substrate.

Housing: Russian tortoises can be well housed indoors or outside in warm weather, depending on the climate. This species does not hibernate in winter. So if your tortoise lives outside, it needs a reliable source of warmth in cool weather. Outdoor enclosures also need to be predator proof, which can be difficult. The most recommended type of indoor housing for small or medium sized turtles is a “turtle table”. Instructions for making these cases are available online. Hatchlings may start out in 10-20 gallon aquariums, while adults will be housed in 75 gallon aquariums or larger custom built enclosures measuring 4’W x 4’L x 1-2’H (larger is usually better). be able. A water source (bowl or tub) should be provided that is large enough for the turtle to submerge but shallow enough to allow for easy entry and exit. Suitable substrates range from newspaper, paper towels, reptile rugs, timothy hay and alfalfa pellets. Substrates to avoid are sand, soil, bark, mulch, gravel and wood chips; These either hold too much moisture or are known impairment risks. The cage should be spot cleaned weekly and given a full substrate change/clean every two weeks.

Russian tortoises like to dig/burrow and a ‘digging box’ should be provided with a mixture of soil and sand to allow for this natural behavior and to create a higher humidity corner of the enclosure. The substrate should be kept moist but not waterlogged (soil should clump but not ooze when pressed).

Heating: Suitable temperatures range from 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night, with a daytime sunspot of approximately 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Suitable heating elements are ceramic radiant heaters, various heat bulbs (provided all light-emitting heat bulbs are turned off at night) or under tank heaters fitted to thermostats. It’s important to purchase a temperature gun or digital thermometers with probes to get accurate temperature readings. Plastic dial thermometers or other fixed placement thermometers are unreliable and do not adequately measure thermal gradients within entire enclosures.

Lighting: UV lighting is necessary to the health of all turtles and comes in two equally necessary forms. UVA rays are waves of radiation needed to promote natural behaviors and stimulate appetite. UVB rays are the other type of radiation waves necessary for calcium metabolism and bone health. A good way to tell the two UV rays apart is “A for appetite, B for bones”. UVB is only provided in 2 different types of lamps: fluorescent lamps, which are specifically designed for reptile UVB radiation, and mercury vapor lamps. Some bulbs sold in pet stores are labeled as “full spectrum” and the packaging may mislead you into believing that a bulb producing only UVA is enough for a blue tongue, but unless specifically stated on the packaging, If it offers UVB lighting, it will not be what your pet needs. All UVB lamps provide UVA, but not all UVA lamps provide UVB. Mercury vapor lamps are among the longest lasting UVB sources on the market and these lamps also generate heat; They are highly recommended for Russian tortoises. Fluorescent reptile lights are another option for providing UV lighting; These come in a few different styles, the most common being the coil variety and the tubular strip variety. Fluorescent tubes have the shortest lifespan of any UVB lamp and although they can produce visible light for years, the UVB they provide only lasts around 3-4 months. Glow strips are similar but can last up to 4-6 months. If you are purchasing a fluorescent UV lamp instead of a mercury vapor lamp, make sure you purchase one rated at 10.0 to meet your pet’s needs.

All light bulbs should be replaced every 4-6 months unless their output is routinely measured with a UVB meter to ensure they are producing an adequate spectrum of light. It is important that your turtle is within 12 inches of any UVB light source you provide, as the distance of the light can greatly affect the amount of UVB absorbed. No matter what artificial light you provide, nothing beats the power of the sun. Supervised time outside on warm summer days will benefit your tortoise tremendously.

Humidity: Russian tortoises have relatively low humidity requirements and thrive in 40-50% humidity. Regular spraying of the cage is unnecessary.

diet

The Russian tortoise’s natural diet consists of herbaceous and succulent vegetation, including grasses, twigs, flowers and some fruits. These turtles do NOT eat ANIMAL PROTEIN! The best diet is one that comes as close as possible to their natural diet, which is high in fiber, low in protein, and high in calcium.

Ideally, the tortoise will graze on edible plants in its enclosure. However, you will find that they eat many plants to the roots and kill the plant. One way to get around this is to grow edible plants outside of the enclosure in a completely pesticide-free environment and give them to the turtle. Ensure a varied assortment. Be careful not to overfeed T. horsfieldii as they tend to be overweight in captivity. If they look chubby when they pull back into their shell, reduce the amount you feed.

Grass hay, such as timothy grass, meadow orchard, brome, etc., should always be available as a source of fibre. Virtually any leafy greens available at a grocery store are acceptable food sources for Russian tortoises, but they must be varied to ensure an adequate diet. Kale, mustard greens, beet greens, dandelion greens, watercress, escarole, Swiss chard, parsley, kale, spinach, endive, spring mix, and romaine lettuce are all good choices. Spinach, kale, and Swiss chard should be fed in limited amounts.

The following weeds, grasses and flowers may be offered for added variety: clover, grasses (bermuda, timothy, rye, fescue, bluegrass), coreopsis, hibiscus, daisy, strawberry, honeysuckle, dandelion, apple, mallow, endive, nasturtium, blackberry , radicchio, opuntia, cacti, gazania, escarole, petunias, geraniums, roses, chard, sedums, vine leaves (no grape ivy!), parsley, chicory and nettles.

Fruits are not eaten by wild Russian tortoises and are not recommended as a food choice.

Addition

Calcium: Russian tortoises need an extra calcium supplement. Calcium powder is made by many different brands on the market (Fluker’s, Exo-Terra, Rep-Cal, etc.); Whatever brand you choose, choose a product that does not contain phosphorus or vitamin D3. It should be sprinkled over the food once a day for turtles under 1 year old and 2-3 times a week for adult turtles.

Multivitamin: Vitamins are also important to promote healthy body function. There are many brands that make multivitamins suitable for reptiles (Herptivite, Reptivite, Vionate, etc.). Vitamins (particularly fat-soluble vitamins like A and D) can easily be overdosed, and over-supplementing can even be harmful. As a rule, a reptile multivitamin should only be sprinkled over the food every one to two weeks.

Common Complaints

Respiratory Infection: This is a common and deadly disease that affects many captive turtles. Russian tortoises are particularly susceptible to respiratory diseases. Some of the signs to look out for are a runny nose, difficult breathing/wheezing, loss of appetite and decreased activity. Respiratory diseases in Russian tortoises can be caused by bacterial, fungal, viral, or parasitic infections. Vitamin deficiencies and inappropriately high/low humidity or temperature ranges are also a common cause of respiratory disease in all turtles. These infections can be contagious to other turtles and require immediate medical attention.

Parasites: Internal parasites in the gastrointestinal tract can be present in any turtle and can exacerbate the problems of an already ill animal. The best way to prevent this from happening is to have annual fecal exams with your vet while maintaining excellent home care. Turtles can get these parasites from their food, their environment, and each other. An excess of parasites should be treated by a qualified reptile veterinarian to prevent health deterioration.

Metabolic Bone Disease: Also known as MBD, this is a term used to describe a range of disorders related to weakening of the bones or impaired system function caused by imbalances in calcium, phosphorus, or vitamin D3 . It is one of the most commonly observed health problems in reptiles and is often the result of inadequate dietary calcium levels or improper UVB lighting, which is essential for calcium absorption. Symptoms of MBD range from mild (lethargy, loss of appetite) to severe (soft carapace, abnormal carapace growth, tremors and twitching of extremities). Veterinary care is a must for any turtle suspected of having MBD.

March 30, 2015

Contents of this care sheet Courtesy of:

The center for bird and exotic medicine

11401 NE 195. St Bothell, WA 98011

(425) 486-9000 PHONE (425) 486-9002 FAX

www.theexoticvet.com

This is a list of a variety of different plants, both cultivated and wild, that tortoises and tortoises can eat. Please understand that the taste preferences of individual animals may vary.

Plant name Scientific name Plant species Edible parts Agave Agave sp. Succulent Whole plant Alfalfa Medicago sativia Common weeds Whole plant Aloe Aloe sp. Succulent Whole Plant Alyssum, Sweet Lobularia maritima Cultivated Plants Leaves Flowers Arizona Cottontop Grass Digitaria sp. Grasses Whole plant Rucola Eruca sativa Herbs Leaves, flowers Asperagus Fern Asperagus setaceus & plumosis Ferns Leaves Aster Aster sp. Cultivated Leaves Baby’s tears, Irish Moss Soleirolia soleirolii Cultivated Leaves Bamboo Muhlengrass Muhlenbergia dumosa Grasses Whole plant Banana Musa sp. Leaves, fruits of trees/shrubs Barnyardgrass Echinochloa crus & galli Grasses Leaves Basil Ocimum basilicum Herbs Leaves Begonia Begonia sp. Succulent leaves, flowers bent grass Agrostis sp. Grass leaves Bermuda Cynodon dactylon Grass leaves Big Bluestem Andropogon gerardi Grass leaves Bindweed Convolvulus sp. & Calystegia sp. Weeds Leaves Bird’s nest Fern Asplenium nidus Cultivated Leaves Bird’s foot trefoil Lotus corniculatus Weeds Leaves Bittercress Cardamine hirsuta & flexuosa Weeds Leaves Black mustard Brassica nigra Weeds Whole plant Benedictine Cnicus benedictus Weeds Leaves Bluegrass Bouteloua gracilis Grasses Leaves Bluedicks Dichelostemma pulchellum Desert wildflower Rough grass, annual Poa annua Nephtarolepsifern Ferns Bottlebrush Callistemon Cultivated Bouganvillea Bouganvillea sp. Cultivated plants Brome Bromus sp. Grasses Bromeliads Family Bromeliaceae Cultivated plants Buckwheat Eriogonum fasciculatum Common weeds Buffalo grass Stenotaphrum secondatum Grasses Buffalo grass Cenchrus ciliaris Grasses Bugleweed Ajuga reptans Common weeds Leaves, flowers Butterfly bush Buddleja sp. Common weed California buckwheat Eriogonum fasciculatum Tree/shrub California filago Filago californica Common weed Canary grass Phalaris minor Grasses Carnation Dianthus caryophyllus Crops Cassia Senna sp. Trees/shrubs Whole plant Cat’s ears Hypochoeris sp. Weed Cattle Spinach Atriplex polycarpa Tree/shrub Chamomile Chamaemelum nobile Cultivated plants Flowers Chicory Cerastium vulgatum & arvense Weed Chicory Cichorium sp. Weed Flowers, Leaves, Roots Chinese Lantern Abutilon hybridum Cultivated Flowers Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum sp. Cultivated Plants Flowers Chufa or Yellow Hazelnut Grass Cyperus esculentus Grasses Cinnamon Fern Osumunda cinnamomea Ferns Climbing Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus Vines Clover Trifolium repens & pratense Common Weeds Coleus Coleus sp. Cultivated Common Greenbrier, Catbrier Silax roundfolia & sp. Common weed Common sorrel Rumex sp. & Oxalis sp. Coneflower (purple) common weed Echinacea sp. (Rudbeckia) Common weeds Coreopsis Coreopsis giganta & tinctoria & atkinsoniana & calliopsidea Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Maize plant Dracaena fragrans Cultivated plants Cornflower or bachelor’s button Plagiobothrys sp. Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Cotyledon orbiculata Family Crassulaceae, Cotyledon orbiculata Common weeds Flowers, leaves Couch grass Agropyon repens Grasses Finger millet Digitaria sanguinalis Grasses Creeping bell Campanula rapunculoides Common weeds Creeping Jenny Lysimachia nummulariifolia Vines Creeping jellygrass Hilaria belangeri Plants Entire Dahlia Dahlia pinnata & roseal English Bellis perennis Cultivated plants/weeds Flowers Dandelions Taraxacum officinale, Agoseris aurantiaca Weeds Leaves, flowers, roots Daylilies (NOT Easter or Tiger lilies!) Hemerocallis sp. Cultivated Dayflower Commelina diffusa Common weed Leaves, flowers Deadnettle, red or purple Lamium purpurem Common weed Stag Grass Muhlenbergia rigens Grasses Whole plant Desert dandelion Malacothrix glabrata Common weed Desert Four O’Clock Desert Mirabelis spectabalis Desert wildflower Whole plant Desert rose Adenium obesum Succulent Dichondra , Wonderlawn Dichondra repens Cultivated plants/weeds Leaves, flowers Dock Rumex sp. Common weed Flowers, leaves, roots Echinacea Echinacea sp. Common weed leaves, flowers endive Cichorium sp. Weed evening primrose Oenothera biensis weed leaves, flowers evening primrose Oenothera laciniata weed fennel Foeniculum sp. Herbs Fern Acacia Acacia angustissima Trees/shrubs Flowers Fescue Festuca glauca Grasses Festuca arundinacea Grasses Charlock charlock Brassica rapa Common weeds Whole plant Fig tree Moraceae Tree/shrub Leaves, fruit Filaree Erodium cicutarium Common weed Flowering maple Abutilon sp. Succulent all Forsythia Forsythia sp. Tree/shrub Fuschia Fuschia sp. Crops Gazania Gazania sp. Cultivated plants leaves, flowers Geranium Pelargonium sp. Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Common chamomile Matricaria chamomilla Cultivated plants Flowers Globe mallow Sphaeralcea sp. Common weed Whole plant Goat’s head Tribulus terrestris Common weed Golden bamboo or fish bamboo Phyllostachys aurea Tree/shrub Geese grass Eleusine indica Grasses Grape family Vitaceae & Berberidaceae Cultivated plants/vines Leaves, fruits, flowers Gundermann Glechoma hederacea Vines Guava tree Psidium guajava Tree/shrub leaves Hawkbits Leontodon ssp Common weed Hawk’s beards Crepi biennis & capilallaris Common weed Haworthia reinwardtii Haworthia reinwardtii Succulent plant Heath Ericaceae Tree/shrub Leaves, flowers Hen and chicks Echeveria sp. Succulent all hen and chick, houseleek Sempervivum sp. Succulent Leaves, Flowers Henbit Lamium amplexicaule Weeds Leaves, Flowers Hibiscus Hibicus rosa & sinensis & syriacus Tree/Shrub Leaves, Flowers Hollyhock Alcea rosea Cultivated Flowers Honesty Lunaria annua Weeds Root, Seeds Honeysuckle Lonicera interrupta & japonica & periclymenum & caprifolium Weeds/Vines Leaves, Flowers Honeysuckle Desert Anisacanthus thurberi Desert wildflower Whole plant Hosta Hosta sp. Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Ice flowers Mesembryanthemaceae Family Succulent Impatiens Impatiens glandulifera Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers, seeds Indian rice grass Oryzopsis hymenoides Grasses Jasmine Jasminum officinale & grandifloum Cultivated plants Johnny-Jump-Up Viola tricolor Cultivated plants Kalanchoe sp. Kalanchoe sp. Succulent cabbage Brassica oleracea Crops Kikuyugrass Pennisetum clandestinum Grasses Small grass Panicum coloratum Grasses Knotweed Polygonum spp. Common weed Kudzu Puerar lobata Common weed/vines Leaves, flowers Lavender Lavandula angustifolia & labiatae Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Lilac Syringa vulgaris Cultivated plants Link & Otto Tradescantia crassula Succulent plant Live Forever Sedum purpureum Succulent plant Loquat Eriobotrya japonica Tree/shrub Mallow Malva sylrestris & rotundifolia & Neglecta & Moschata Cultivated plants/weeds Leaves, roots, seeds Mallow, desert Sphaeralcea ambigua Desert wildflower Maple Acer saccharum Tree/shrub Marigold Tagetes sp. Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Milk thistle Silybum marianum Weed Mimosa Desmanthus illinoensis Tree/shrub Mojave aster Machaeranthera tortifolia Desert wildflower Monkey plant Ruellia makoyana Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Moonflower Impomoiea alba & leptophylla Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Morning glory Convolvulaceae Desert wildflower Whole plant Moss roses, Purselane Portulaca sp. Succulent Mother of pearl Graptopetalum paraguayan Cultivated plants Muhly Sporobolus asperifolius Tree/shrub Mulberry Morus alba & nigra Tree/shrub Leaves, fruit Mustard Sisymbrium officinale, Brassica sp. Common Napiergrass Pennisetum purpureum Grasses Nasturtium Nasturtium sp. Cultivated plants Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus Cultivated plants Needle grass, desert Stipa speciosa Grasses Nettle Urtica dioica Common weed Ribwort plantain Lapsana communis Common weed Oat grass Arrhenatherum sp. Grasses Ornamental grasses Dactylis glomerata Grasses Ostrich fern Matteuccia struthiopteris Ferns Owl clover Orthocarpus purpurascens Common weeds Pampas grass Cortaderia selloana Grasses Pangola grass Digitaria decumbens Grasses Pansy Viola sp. Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Tree/shrub Pearl millet Pennisetum Grasses Pennywort Cotyledon umbilicus & veneris Common weeds Peppergrass Lepidium spp. Grasses Persimmon Diospyros texanum & virginiana Common weeds Petunia Petunia sp. Crops Phlox Phlox paniculata Crops Foxtail Amaranthus sp. Common weeds Pineapple Guava Feijoa sellowiana Crops Rosa Perslane Montia sibirica Common weeds Leaves, flowers Plantain Plantago major & media & lanceotata Common weeds Leaves, flowers Poppy, California Eschscholzia californica Crops Leaves, flowers Poppy, Welsh Meconopsis cambrica Crops Leaves, flowers Pothos Epipremnum aureum Crop Leaves Poverty weed Monolepis nuttallia, Iva axillaris Common weed Whole plant Spiny lettuce Lactuca serriola Common weed Leaves, flowers Prickly pear Opuntia sp. Succulent Whole plant Primrose Primula vulgaris Cultivated plant Leaves, flowers Purslane Portulaca oleracea Weeds Leaves, flowers Quackgrass Agropyron repens Grasses Leaves, flowers Swift weed Galinsoga sp. Common weed Leaves, flowers Raspberry, blackberry Rubus sp. Common weed Leaves, flowers, fruits Red damsels Calandronia ciliata Common weed Rose Rosa sp. Cultivated Flowers Rosemary Rosamarinus sp. Herbs Leaves, flowers Russian thistle Salsola kali Tree/shrub Leaves, flowers Rye Secale cereale Grasses Leaves Sage Salvia sp. Tree/Shrub/Herbs Leaves, flowers Sainfoin Onobrychis sativa Common weed Lettuce Burnet burnet Sanguisorba minor Common weed Sea grape Coccoloba uvifera Tree/shrub Senna Desert Cassia covesii Trees/shrubs Whole plant Sesame grass Tripsacum dactyloides Grasses Shepherd’s purse Capsella bursa & pastorsis Common weed Slime Lilies Albuca sp . Succulent Sautel Sonchus oleraceus & arvensis Weed Spider plant Chlorophytum comosum Cultivated plants Leaves, flowers Tricorn Tradescantia pinetorum & occidentalis Succulent Spurge Euphorbia sp. Common weed Whole plant St. Augustine Charleston Grass Stenotaphrum secundatum Grasses St. John’s Wort Hypericum sp. Common Weed Leaves Staghorn Fern Platycerium bifurcatum Ferns Leaves, Flowers Sticky Monkey Flower Mimulus aurantiacus Succulent Stonecrop Sedum sp. Succulent Strawberries, native Fragaria × ananassa Cultivated Strawberry, wild Fragaria vesca Common weeds Swedish ivy Plectranthus australis Cultivated plants/canes Leaves, flowers Sweet spring grass Anthoxanthum odoratum Grasses Tea tree Leptospermum scoparium Tree/shrub Leaves, flowers Timothy-grass Phleum pratense Grasses Tree fern Dicksonia Antarctic ferns Tree Houseleek Aeonium sp. Succulent all Umbrella plant Darmera peltata / Petasites hyrbridus Cultivated plants Vetch – Shrub, Common, Tufted Vicia sepium & sativa & cracca Common weeds Violet Viola sp. Cultivated Leaves, Flowers Wandering Jew Tradescantia albiflora Succulents/Vine Leaves, Flowers Watercress Cruicerae Common Weeds Leaves, Flowers Weeping Love Grass Eragrostis curvula Grasses Whispering Bells Emmenanthe penduliflora Cultivated White Tidy-Ups Layia glandulosa Common Weeds Wild Carrot Daucus carota Common Weeds Leaves, Flowers Roots Wild Muscadine Vitis rotundifolia Vines Leaves, flowers Wild oats Avena fatua Grasses Willow family Salicaceae Tree/shrub Willow, desert Chilopsis linearis Trees/shrubs Flowers Winter cress Barbarea vulgarsis Weeds Leaves. Flowers Wisteria Wisteria sp Cultivated plants Flowers Witch grass Panicum capillare Grasses Yellow salmon Achellea millefolium Common weeds Leaves, flowers Yucca Yucca sp. Succulent Zinnia Zinnia sp. Cultivated leaves, flowers

Turtles have been found to prefer the bright yellow color of a banana to other treats. So we know that turtles like bananas, but that doesn’t mean all turtles should eat bananas.

In tropical species, bananas are a rich source of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and fiber.

If your tortoise is a desert species, like a sulcata or leopard tortoise, it hasn’t evolved to process as much sugar, leading to indigestion and diarrhea.

When overfed, the poor phosphorus-to-calcium ratio can lead to weakened bones and deformed armor. Organic banana peels are safe, but be careful with pesticides.

Can I give bananas to my turtle?

Bananas are rich in vitamins, minerals, fiber and antioxidants. However, the amount you offer depends on the species of turtle you own. Some species can eat more bananas than others.

For example, tropical species like the red-footed and yellow-footed tortoises can have this fruit as a larger part of their diet. In the wild, they use it as a source of antioxidants and minerals. They regularly come across bananas while foraging on beaches and in tropical forests.

However, desert tortoises like sulcatas will not fare as well. Since they do not encounter bananas natively, their digestion is not adapted to process them. Regular consumption of bananas is unnatural and unhealthy.

Regardless of your turtle species, it’s wise to feed bananas sparingly. Fruits contain essential nutrients for fruit-eating species, but even among these fruits, bananas are not a perfect choice. That’s because they:

High in sugar

A medium-sized banana contains 14 grams of sugar. Some turtle species can handle it, others cannot. Grazing species like the sulcata cannot digest much sugar. Too much can cause digestive problems.

Fruit-eating species like the red-footed turtle are less affected by the high sugar content. However, it is better to choose low-sugar fruits. Good alternatives are strawberries and blackberries.

High in potassium

Bananas are known to be a rich source of potassium. While this is healthy for humans, it’s not ideal for turtles. High levels of potassium have been linked to kidney disease in reptiles.

Phosphorus to Calcium Ratio

Bananas also contain too much phosphorus and too little calcium. Specifically, 100 grams of bananas contain 5 mg of calcium and 22 mg of phosphorus.

Phosphorus is not harmful to turtles. It is an important mineral needed for healthy armor and bone growth. However, turtles require more calcium. Because the two are closely intertwined, bananas create an unhealthy balance.

Phosphorus and calcium levels are inversely related in the body. When blood calcium levels rise, phosphate levels fall. Phosphate will always want to be less available than calcium. When there is too much phosphate in the body, it draws calcium from other sources, such as bones.

This can be a problem for turtles. An unhealthy calcium to phosphorus ratio can lead to many diseases, especially in the kidneys. According to The Veterinary Record, this can result in deformed and permanently damaged carapaces, particularly in leopard tortoises.

Are bananas good for turtles?

Bananas can be good for turtles as long as they are provided in moderation. As an occasional reward, turtles receive health benefits such as:

nutrient

Bananas are rich in vitamins and minerals. Their proportions may not be ideal for a turtle, but they are still important to the body. When given sparingly, bananas can be good along with a balanced diet appropriate for your turtle’s species. They improve and strengthen your turtle’s health with a boost of:

potassium

Vitamin B6

vitamin C

copper

manganese

magnesium

fiber

Remarkably, bananas contain very little protein and almost no fat. Bananas are also low in calories compared to the amount of nutrients they contain. This makes bananas a nutrient-dense fruit.

Nutrition Facts Medium Banana Calories 89 kcal Water 75% Protein 1.1g Carbohydrates 22.8g Sugars 12.2g Fiber 2.6g Fat 0.3g

digestion

Bananas contain two types of fiber, namely pectin and resistant starch. These help with your turtle’s digestion.

Pectin is a type of fiber that occurs naturally in plants. Resistant starches, on the other hand, are starch molecules that are not digested, making them behave like fiber.

Both compounds are not digested in the intestine. Instead, they serve as food for the gut microbiome. This microbiome helps break down food and absorb nutrients more efficiently.

antioxidants

Like most fruits, bananas are rich in antioxidants. These compounds fight free radicals, which are molecules that can damage cells. Free radicals cause oxidative stress, which has been linked to various health problems including:

Age-related diseases

heart diseases

Neurodegenerative Diseases

Bananas contain several types of antioxidants, including dopamine and catechins. According to CNS & Neurological Disorders Drug Targets, polyphenols (which include catechins) may lead to faster healing times and better resistance to external infections.

Can sulcata tortoises eat bananas?

In the wild, sulcata tortoises live in arid, arid, and sandy regions. Sulcatas feed here on grass and hay as well as weeds and cacti. This makes them a herbivorous grazing species. Bananas are not a naturally occurring food in their environment, so they typically won’t eat it in the wild.

This doesn’t completely rule out bananas. According to PLOS One, desert tortoises can still get used to eating fruit. However, they only tolerate it in moderation. Sulcatas didn’t evolve to digest the high sugar content typically found in bananas.

Instead, it can cause indigestion and diarrhea. This can limit how many nutrients they can absorb from other foods.

Therefore, bananas can be fed to sulcatas, but in limited quantities. If you have a choice, it is advisable to choose other fruits that contain less sugar.

Red-footed tortoises (and their close relatives, yellow-footed tortoises) are found in tropical regions. In the wild, they are omnivores, meaning they can eat both animal and plant proteins. Since they are scavengers, these turtles feed on fruit that has fallen to the ground.

Therefore, fruits such as bananas make up a large part of the red-footed tortoise’s diet. Aside from fruit, they also fill their diet with vegetables, leafy greens, and some animal protein derived from insects.

Your digestive tract naturally evolved to process larger amounts of sugar. It shouldn’t be the only aspect of their diet, but they can handle it better than desert tortoises.

Bananas are still best fed in moderation. Other fruits that are more nutritious and contain a better phosphorus to calcium ratio are ideal. Many owners prefer tropical fruits like mangoes, honeydew, and papaya. Red-footed tortoises in particular love strawberries for their bright red color.

Can leopard tortoises eat bananas?

Leopard tortoises are native to arid, arid regions, particularly South Africa, Ethiopia, and Somalia. Like the sulcata, this tortoise is a herbivore. Its diet should consist of at least half to 80% grasses and vegetables. Leopard tortoises should also be given vegetables to supplement their meals.

Leopard tortoises do not need fruit in their diet. In the wild, they rarely encounter fruit and have not evolved to properly digest it. While they can try bananas with no immediate harm, any nutrients they find might be better sourced from other foods. Accidentally feeding your leopard tortoise too much banana can cause digestive problems.

Are Banana Leaves Safe for Turtles?

Banana leaves are safe to feed to your turtle. They are non-toxic and act as a tasty leafy green for your turtle to enjoy.

Banana leaves are also inexpensive and often found in large quantities. You can search your local supermarket, although you’ll have better luck in Asian supermarkets.

If you feed your tortoise banana leaves, you don’t have to worry much about pesticides. These leaves are prepared for use in cooking, making them edible. A quick rinse is recommended to remove any dirt, dust or debris. To store, wrap in plastic wrap and store in the freezer.

Banana leaves are healthy for turtles. They contain many nutrients, but above all the antioxidant EGCG. This compound gives green tea its famous antioxidant properties. This can turn banana leaves into a tasty health boost that’s fun to chew on.

Can turtles eat banana peels?

Turtles love banana peels for their color, texture, and taste. A banana peel alone does not contain any toxins that are harmful to a turtle.

However, banana peels often have insecticides on their surface. For humans, washing the peel before eating will negate this. For a much smaller turtle, the chances of pesticide residues are a concern. Also, banana peels are not nutritious. They offer some health benefits such as: B. a boost in potassium, fiber and antioxidants.

You can feed bananas to a turtle, and most will enjoy the taste and texture. However, limit the amount you offer as they are high in sugar and can overload your turtle with minerals. Likewise, some turtles will eat them naturally in the wild, but others will not pluck them appropriately.

Even if turtles walk slowly, they need to move. This is important for bone and armor development, appetite, fitness level, weight control and excellent overall health.

You can take a tortoise for a walk, but it may not like being outdoors due to people, animals, cars, and loud noises.

Instead, block access to unsafe parts of your yard and supervise the turtle as it roams and explores. The use of a leash is not necessary as turtles move very slowly.

It shouldn’t be necessary to walk a turtle as your pet already has a large enclosure to explore with plenty of activity toys.

How fast does a turtle move?

Turtles have an average walking speed of between 0.2 and 0.5 km/h.

According to Guinness World Records, the fastest speed ever achieved by a tortoise is 0.28 meters per second, thanks to Bertie, a leopard tortoise from the UK.

The average tortoise can only run at 3-4 miles per hour, and most move less than 1 mile per hour, making them one of the slowest land animals. A desert tortoise can move 20 feet per minute in a short sprint.

Turtles are slow because they don’t need to hunt for their food like many other mammals. They feed primarily on plant matter, which they find abundant in their natural habitats during the warmer months.

They have also developed adaptations that protect them from predators, such as:

Hard outer shell

sharp beak

Gular Horn

digging skills

camouflage

Their metabolism is slower than that of other mammals. Although they cannot move as fast, they live longer.

The average speeds of turtles are as follows:

Turtle species Average speed Leopard tortoise 1 km/h Indian star tortoise 0.5 km/h Russian tortoise 8 km/h Hermann’s tortoise 8 km/h Red-footed tortoise 1 km/h Pancake tortoise 8 km/h Gopher tortoise 8 km/h Desert tortoise 0.5 km /h Angonoka tortoise 0.5 km/h Radiated tortoise 0.5 km/h Aldabra tortoise 0.5 km/h Galapagos tortoise 4.5 km/h

How far can a turtle run?

Depending on the species and size, a turtle can travel anywhere from 300 meters to 100 kilometers in a single day. Smaller tortoises tend to travel farther than larger, heavier tortoises.

Turtles are prone to dehydration and overheating when moving about in open habitats, according to the Journal for Nature Conservation.

Rocks and other obstacles also present a navigational challenge for turtles, making it difficult for them to travel long distances.

The journal also describes how researchers discovered that adults cannot travel more than 1 km without risk of overheating, so they make shorter trips of 0.5 km between shelters.

Female turtles cover larger areas than males.

While they don’t move widely, you should still encourage your tortoise to exercise throughout the day. Captive tortoises enjoy roaming, climbing, and digging.

Do turtles walk or crawl?

Turtles walk on all four limbs.

Their legs are relatively small and stubby compared to their large carapaces, sometimes giving the appearance of crawling rather than walking.

Turtles cannot crawl because their hard outer shells are attached to their spine and thorax, which does not physically allow them to crawl.

How to walk with a turtle

Walking is an important source of your turtle’s daily exercise.

Turtles often need to move to:

While your tortoise should have a large enough enclosure to roam around in, taking your pet tortoise for a walk is a great way to get them exploring new, interesting areas.

Because turtles move slowly, you don’t need to use a leash. However, this gives you more control over where they travel and what they do.

It is not safe to take your turtle for a walk outdoors as there are too many stressors including other animals, people, cars and unfamiliar sights and sounds.

Instead, allow your tortoise to roam around your yard or outdoor space under supervision. To prevent them from traveling where they shouldn’t, block access with wooden planks or other materials to guide your turtle’s journey.

Your turtle doesn’t need to be outside long, and an hour is enough to stretch its legs and explore its new surroundings. If a yard or outdoor space is unsuitable, let them roam around in a turtle-safe space instead.

Can you let your turtle roam around the house?

It is not a good idea to leave your tortoise running around the house unattended.

Although turtles are slow moving, they can burrow or hide in small spaces. Turtles are at risk of getting lost and injuring themselves, which poses a significant risk to smaller turtle species.

Other reasons are the following:

illness

According to the US Food and Drug Administration, turtles carry salmonella on their shell and skin. Although this doesn’t affect them, it can sometimes make people sick.

unnatural environment

The home is not a natural environment for tortoises as they lack the substrate they need to carry out their instinctive behaviors.

Things like ceramic tile, soft furniture, and laminate floors can make tortoises uncomfortable because they are unaccustomed to the feel underfoot.

Driven

There are many hazards in the home that put turtles at risk, including:

sharp objects

Other pets

catch risks

underfloor heating

If your turtle comes in contact with one of them, it could get hurt.

Emphasize

Even with supervision, there will be times when you need to redirect your turtle’s journey. However, most tortoises do not like being handled and will become stressed if they are picked up too often.

If you pick up your turtle too much while it’s roaming, it may urinate on you out of fear, which is an instinctive defensive behavior.

Unstable temperatures

Turtles are cold-blooded, so you need to maintain a warm internal temperature in order for them to digest food. Certain rooms may be too cold for turtles, causing their internal temperature to drop.

Walking a turtle isn’t always the answer to your turtle’s exercise needs. If your turtle seems stressed or bored in its enclosure, it may not be big enough.

Rather than prioritizing a walk, get a larger enclosure with good substrate for digging. Climbing toys, plants, rocks and ramps are also appreciated.

There are several good bedding options for turtles. In addition to being able to burrow into their bedding, a tortoise must be able to hold their shape and provide moisture to keep them hydrated.

Top soil is the best bedding for turtles because it is natural, retains moisture, and has good structural integrity. Coconut shells, peat moss and straw pellets are good quality substrates.

Turtles need 2-3 inches of bedding for burrowing.

When choosing a type of bedding for your turtle, make sure it minimizes the risk of impaction, as turtles inevitably ingest their materials accidentally.

Why do turtles need bedding?

Turtle litter is the layer of material that lines the floor of their enclosure.

Turtles need substrate because it:

Retains moisture so turtles can absorb water through the bedding

Allows turtles to dig, which they have a strong desire to do

Provides a comfortable environment for walking

Provides a soft landing if your turtle falls or rolls over after climbing

The best litter for your turtle is one that it can easily digest if it accidentally eats some. It is normal for turtles to ingest small portions of their bedding.

However, if they cannot digest it, a turtle may be affected. The litter forms a hard mass in the gastrointestinal tract that prevents food from moving through the intestines and feces from escaping the body.

Some bedding may be unsafe for turtles, so avoid bedding that causes irritation or allergies.

What kind of bedding does a turtle need?

There are a large number of substrate options for turtles, but they all have their pros and cons.

Here is a table of the different types of bedding for tortoises:

Type of bedding Advantages Disadvantages Top soil: – Inexpensive

– Naturally

– Excellent moisture retention

– Good structural integrity. – Must be sterilized

– Dusty when dry

– Musty smell

– May contain undesirable substances or insects.

Shredded Paper: – Inexpensive

– Easily mixable with other bedding materials

– Easy to exchange. – Putrefaction in hot, humid conditions

– Fire hazard under lighting

– Poo to dig

– Visually unattractive.

Straw: – Safe and affordable

– Good for digging. – High maintenance effort

– Susceptible to rot in humid conditions.

Compost: – Visually appealing

– Absorbent

– Maintains tunnels

– Cheap. – Harmful preservatives and additives

– Cold and heavy

– Difficult to maintain

– Mold can grow.

Hay: – Good for digging

– thermal layer

– Cheap

– Edible

– Dust free

– Vulnerable to Rot

– Collapses after digging

– Non-absorbent mulch: – Generates moisture

– Absorbs odors

– Cleanable and reusable

– Affordable

– Carries mold spores

– Contains sharp parts

– impact risk

– Difficult to dig in. Peat Moss: – Very absorbent

– Excellent moisture absorption moisture

– Easy to wash off

– Safe for turtles to eat.

– Expensive

– Becomes flaky when drying. Hemp: – Dust-free and natural

– Highly absorbent

– Can be mixed with other bedding materials.

– Expensive

– Can splinter and cause injuries. Coconut Shell: – Retains moisture

– Absorbs odors

– Easy

– Good for digging

– Safe for consumption – May absorb moisture after drying

– Dusty when dry

– Spongy when wet

– Does not keep its structure.

Dirt is the best bedding for your turtle’s burrows and tunnels, but you can mix some of the lighter bedding materials together to make heavier, more stable bedding.

Here’s a closer look at each bedding material:

Can you use topsoil for turtle litter?

Earth is a natural material that makes good bedding for turtles. It closely resembles their natural habitat and allows turtles to burrow and burrow, which is an essential survival technique in the wild.

According to the Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, caves protect predators and environmental extremes. While captive tortoises don’t need the same protection, the soil mimics wild conditions, making tortoises more comfortable in their surroundings.

In addition to being found in a turtle’s natural habitat, topsoil is inexpensive and can be mixed with other materials. It’s good at retaining moisture, allowing turtles to stay hydrated, and turtles can easily tunnel through it too.

However, topsoil can be dusty when dry, has a musty odor and contains critters. Safe topsoil should be free of fertilizers, compost, and added nutrients.

Can you use shredded paper for turtle litter?

Shredded paper is a popular bedding material for many animals, but it’s not the best choice for turtles.

In the hot, humid conditions that turtles need, shredded paper will rot or can pose a fire hazard under UV light. Shredded paper isn’t very thick, so getting a quality bedding layer for your turtle to burrow through isn’t easy.

Some owners use shredded paper when their turtles are sick because it’s easy to replace. Turtles with illness or diarrhea will contaminate their bedding, so it can be a good substitute for their regular bedding while they recover.

Can you use straw as bedding for turtles?

While some owners claim that turtles will scratch on straw, they are hardy creatures that can handle it.

Compacted pellets are a safer straw bedding for turtles and prevent impaction. Turtles also love burrowing through them and they are perfectly secure and remain stable while turtles are digging.

Whether in standard or pellet form, straw is prone to rot. It’s sturdier than shredded paper, but you’ll need to replace it more often than topsoil and compost.

Although straw is a high-quality bedding, it requires more maintenance. You need to keep your turtle’s straw bedding dry to prevent it from rotting or becoming moldy. When this happens, it can make your pet sick and attract insects into the enclosure.

Can you use compost for turtles?

Compost is a combination of natural materials that break down and become organic matter. You can use compost for your turtle as long as it hasn’t been treated first.

One of the main advantages of compost is that it looks good and is cheap to buy. It is also absorbent and holds tunnels well.

However, there are several disadvantages, including:

messy . Compost will make your turtle and all the accessories in the aquarium dirty.

. Compost will make your turtle and all the accessories in the aquarium dirty. Cold and heavy. It is much more maintenance-intensive to clean and replace than other bedding materials.

. It is much more maintenance-intensive to clean and replace than other bedding materials. kept moist. Compost needs to be kept moist to keep tunnels from drying out and collapsing. Mold can form.

Avoid potting soil as it contains pesticides that are harmful to turtles. Also, most composts available at garden centers contain chemicals and additives.

Can you use hay for turtle litter?

Hay is similar to straw, but wet straw quickly becomes moldy.

Turtles typically eat hay as part of their diet. They also use hay as a burrowing material, but they have difficulty tunneling hay alone as it is a lightweight material that can collapse. Hay pellets are easier for turtles to dig and root through.

Hay is not absorbent, but it will keep your turtle’s enclosure smelling fresh because it has a pleasant scent. It is also warm so it can provide extra warmth to keep turtles comfortable.

Most owners mix hay with other bedding materials to bulk it up and make it better for digging.

Can you use mulch for turtle litter?

Mulch has multiple uses and benefits including:

Providing moisture that benefits turtles.

Absorbs odors, keeping the enclosure clean and fresh.

You can reuse mulch by boiling and drying it.

However, mulch is not the best bedding for younger turtles as younger animals have trouble walking over it.

It’s also an impaction risk, so if your turtle accidentally eats mulch, the body won’t be able to digest it. In addition, sharp pieces can pierce the walls of the intestine.

Some turtles find it difficult to burrow into mulch because it doesn’t hold its shape.

Can you use sphagnum moss for turtle litter?

Peat moss is one of the best bedding materials for hatchlings and young turtles.

It is useful for moisture absorption and humidity, and it absorbs bad odors and keeps the case fresh.

Turtles like to eat peat moss. So place a handful of peat moss under all skins as this is where younger tortoises prefer to spend their time.

However, quality peat moss is expensive outside of New Zealand.

Peat moss is a cheaper alternative since it is harvested from a different part of peat moss. However, it contains acidic tannins that can eat into the turtle’s shell over time.

You can reuse peat moss by soaking it in boiling water and drying it.

Can you use hemp for turtles?

Hemp can absorb four times its weight in liquid.

The linens are odorless, but they control odors well.

Hemp bedding has other benefits as it:

dust free

Completely natural

Soft and fibrous

Biodegradable

Unfortunately, numerous turtles have died after consuming hemp.

Some varieties contain sharp splinters that cause significant injury internally and to the cloaca, tail, and eyes. Some pieces are also embedded in the tissues of the throat, mouth and nose.

Can you use coconut shells for turtle litter?

Coconut shells have moisture-retaining properties similar to soil and stay moist for a long time.

You can get two different types: coco peat and coco coir. Coco peat is ground finer, while coir fibers are coarser with intact fibers.

Coconut shells can absorb both moisture and odor. You can buy it in bulk as it comes in compressed bricks that expand to 3-4 times their original volume in warm water.

Coconut shells are light and easy to bury, but they don’t hold their structure well.

It can also turn your turtle’s skin orange or dark red. It’s harmless but can look worrisome.

Coconut shell bedding becomes spongy when wet, making it difficult for turtles to walk.

Coconut shells are a good alternative to topsoil as turtles can consume them without risk of impaction.

Which bedding is best for different turtle breeds?

Tortoises have different bedding requirements depending on the species, as they come from different regions. Some hail from deserts, while others are native to cooler, wetter environments.

The best bedding materials for pet turtles are:

Tortoise breed Most suitable bedding Hermann: Reptile bark (orchid), aspen chips, coconut powder Russian: Coconut fibre, aspen shavings, moss, organic topsoil Bark, topsoil Egyptian: Mixture of crushed aspen, topsoil and sand

What bedding is unsafe for turtles?

There are types of turtle litter that should be avoided, including:

Cedar bedding

Cedar bedding is made from oils that are toxic to many reptiles, including turtles. The scent of cedarwood essential oils is toxic when heated, and they also emit toxic fumes.

Litter containing cedar shavings or bark can kill turtles.

walnut shells

Ground walnut shells are an impaction risk. Because the pieces are so sharp, they can cut your turtle’s inside and cause internal damage. Ground corn on the cob is dangerous for the same reasons.

newspaper

Newspaper will rot in the hot and humid conditions they need, meaning you’ll need to change it frequently to prevent health problems for your turtle.

Alfalfa Pellets

Alfalfa pellets are high in protein, which turtles should not eat in large quantities.

They also mold when wet and quickly decompose when exposed to moisture. Alfalfa pellets have been linked to fungal infections of the eyes and respiratory tract.

sand

Although sand is naturally present in a turtle’s environment, it is a known cause of impact. Turtles often ingest sand, but the body cannot digest it.

How much litter does a turtle need?

Your turtle must be able to burrow into the litter. In the wild, they protect themselves by digging burrows to escape into.

When captive turtles are unable to dig and have no way to hide from what they perceive as a threat, they inevitably become stressed and agitated.

Turtle bedding should be at least 2-3 inches deep.

When setting up your turtle’s enclosure, embed rocks in the litter. According to behavioral ecology, young turtles place themselves near rocks for camouflage.

How Often Should You Change Turtle Bedding?

How often you change your turtle’s bedding depends on the material you use.

However, a thorough cleaning every 2-3 weeks is recommended. A deep clean involves removing and replacing the bedding and disinfecting your turtle’s enclosure, rocks, stones, and skin.

Some owners place a plastic cover on the bottom of the enclosure to facilitate cleaning and litter removal. If the plastic is damaged when you come in for a deep clean, you can discard and replace it.

While you only need to do a deep clean every few weeks, you can do spot cleans every day. This involves removing feces and urine to prevent harmful bacteria from building up, which keeps insects away.

Avoid litter materials that cause impact and find one that allows your turtle to burrow. You can’t go wrong with topsoil, but you may want to mix it with other materials to create the best environment.

While you may think that what fruits are included in your turtle’s diet doesn’t really matter that much, the truth is that they can’t eat everything. While grapes and raisins are perfectly fine when eaten in moderation, there are other fruits that you should avoid.

We explain everything you need to know to feed your turtle a balanced diet and keep them happy and healthy.

Can Turtles Eat Grapes or Raisins?

In short, there’s nothing wrong with occasionally feeding a fruit-eating turtle a grape. However, you must moderate the number of grapes or raisins you feed your turtle as these are not natural foods that they can find in the wild.

Remember, while fruit-eating tortoises, like Russian tortoises, can eat grapes, Mediterranean tortoises cannot eat fruit.

What fruits should you not give your turtle?

While most fruits are fine for turtles, you must avoid all citrus-based fruits. The citric acid in these fruits can disrupt turtles’ intestinal flora and lead to all kinds of digestive problems.

Outside of citrus, you need to be mindful of how much fruit you give them, as too much sugar can lead to similar issues. This is the case with raisins, bananas, apples, and other high-sugar fruits.

What is an ideal turtle diet?

While each tortoise’s diet is a little different, most tortoises need plenty of fresh vegetables, such as kale, dandelions, collards, bell peppers, and cauliflower. These foods should make up about 80% of their diet.

Fruits like grapes should make up about 10% of their diet, and the rest should be commercial turtle food. You should feed your turtles grapes and vegetables about once a day and give them access to commercial turtle food at all times.

Best Turtle Treats

The best treats for your pet turtle are fruit. They love kiwis, berries, melons, bananas and other fruits. Not only will your turtle love these treats, they’re a healthy option as long as you feed them to your pet in moderation.

What are other popular treats for your turtle?

Fruit is the ideal treat for your tortoise. While you can feed them grapes, other great options include bananas, strawberries, apples, and pears.

It is best to mix the fruits you give them so they can get different nutrients. However, you should ensure that it does not make up more than 10% of your diet. Too many fruits can give your turtle too much sugar, which can negatively impact their gut health.

What Foods Should You Avoid Feeding Your Turtle?

While you might think that you can feed your turtle vegetables, fruit, or the occasional treat, the truth is that turtles shouldn’t eat a wide variety of foods. We’ve highlighted some of the most common problem foods here.

Frozen vegetables

When you feed your turtle frozen vegetables, you not only freeze the flavor from their food, you also freeze the nutrients. What makes matters worse is the fact that while your turtle may feel full, it doesn’t have the nutrients it needs to stay healthy.

This means your tortoise will suffer from other physical ailments and become ill. If your turtle isn’t eating fresh produce, it’s not getting the nutrients it needs.

canned vegetables

Your turtle needs fresh produce. Although canned vegetables provide the necessary nutrients, they also contain loads of sodium that your turtle can’t handle.

We fully understand that storing fresh produce is more work, but it is what your tortoise needs to stay happy and healthy.

Dairy products

Like many animals, turtles are lactose intolerant. This means they cannot process dairy products. So if you give them dairy, they will get sick. Constantly feeding them dairy can be fatal, although even a little dairy will be extremely uncomfortable for your turtle.

celery

While celery won’t kill your turtles, it’s a poor vegetable choice to feed them. Celery provides your turtle with low energy and too much sodium. In addition, celery seeds can be a diuretic. It’s lose-lose-lose for turtles, so choose a better food for them.

bread

The problem with bread is whatever people put in it. Bread contains preservatives that can harm your turtle. Worse, bread can cause your turtle to grow too fast for its shell, and this can kill your turtle.

Final Thoughts

While you don’t want to overload your tortoise with too many fruits, there’s nothing wrong with the occasional grape or raisin. Just be careful not to overdo it, too many grapes can cause digestive problems.

When trying to decide which fruits to give your turtle, mix them up as much as possible to give them more variety and nutrients.

Relatives reads:

Credit for selected images: IanRedding, Shutterstock

Natural History of the Sulcata Tortoises

Sulcata tortoises are native to more northern parts of Africa, ranging from the southern edge of the Sahara desert through the arid lands including Senegal, Mauritania, Mali, Niger, Chad, Sudan and Ethiopia to the arid, hot coast of Massaua bordering the Red Sea.

Captive bred and imported sulcatas can increasingly be found in pet stores. The sulcata is the largest of the African land tortoises, with specimens easily reaching 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm) in carapace length and 80 to 110 pounds (36 to 50 kg). The tallest on record was a male resident of the Giza Zoological Gardens (Egypt) who weighed 105.5 kg and measured 104 cm across the carapace (Flower, 1925, in Stearns). The oldest documented specimen in captivity, also in the Giza Zoological Gardens, was 54 years old.

Sulcatas are native to parts of the Sahel, the hottest and driest area of ​​Africa. In some regions it may not rain for years. To make the most of available moisture, your skin is resistant to dehydration, but can become very permeable when exposed to moisture. To do this, they dig pallets or dig holes in the ground to access areas with higher moisture levels. In the wild, they may spend the hottest time of the day in these microhabitats. Caves can average 30 inches deep; Some dig tunnel systems that extend 10 feet or more underground. Sulcatas, like most tortoises and tortoises native to dry areas, are extremely efficient in their water use.

In captivity, a similarly hot and dry environment must be maintained year-round. Unlike the California desert tortoises, the sulcatas do not hibernate. Although they will tolerate some surprisingly low temperatures, they should not be both chilled and wet or kept outdoors in cool, damp weather.

Behavior of Sulcata Tortoises

Sulcatas love to move and are very strong – they need a large area where they can move freely and widely. Sulcatas also need to stay away from the heat and do so by retiring to their pallets or into muddy wallows where they stay for hours, tossing cool mud on their backs.

Whether indoors or outdoors, sulcatas roam and are voracious eaters. Like many turtles, they are also climbers. Care must be taken not to give them the opportunity to climb things that are too steep, which would cause them to tip over. If they roll onto their backs and cannot sit up, they may die. Sulcatas also need to stay away from the heat and do so by retiring to their pallets or into muddy wallows where they stay for hours, tossing cool mud on their backs.

Keep dangerous objects out of your area. Footsteps, dogs, raccoons and children are among the dangers to be warned about. Sulcatas are voracious, if not always savvy, eaters and will eat anything small enough and colorful enough. Offer variety and security. Turtles do not bask in the bare open ground. Provide a group of sturdy, low-growing plants that they can crowd among. Create some interesting terrain by leaving (or building) some low hills, smooth rocks, pieces of wood, clumps of weeds, and edible plants.

Diet of sulcata tortoises

The term most commonly used by Sulcata owners to describe their turtles is “eating machine”. Sulcatas graze and forage for hours during the day. In captivity, they must be able to feed on grasses and weeds that are free of pesticides and herbicides.

Grasses and Hay: Sulcata tortoises NEED access to grasses and hay to graze on. This is the majority of their diet (90%) and should consist of pesticide and herbicide free grass and grass clippings, cheat grass, clover, edible flowers (nasturtium, geranium, hibiscus, rose petals) and shrubs. Avoid feeding primarily alfalfa hay as it is high in oxalates and can lead to bladder stone formation, kidney failure and a shortened lifespan. The grass hays on offer include: timothy grass, meadow grass, oat hay, meadow orchard grass.

Sulcata tortoises NEED access to grasses and hay to graze on. This is the majority of their diet (90%) and should consist of pesticide and herbicide free grass and grass clippings, cheat grass, clover, edible flowers (nasturtium, geranium, hibiscus, rose petals) and shrubs.

Leafy Greens: Leafy greens offered include collards, kale, mustard, turnip, and dandelion. Limit vegetables high in oxalates, such as parsley, spinach, rhubarb, beet greens, and kale. Vegetables should make up about 10-15% of the diet. These may include: grated raw carrots, winter squash, sweet potatoes, squash, broccoli, corn on the cob; Leafy greens like collards, dandelion, escarole, romaine, kale.

Fruit: Fruit should be fed sparingly as a treat. These usually have a high sugar and water content, which sulcatas are not used to in the wild. Fruits suitable as treats include: strawberries, chunks of organic bananas with peel, melons with peel attached, berries; Peaches (pitted), apricots (pitted), pears, apples

Supplementation: At MedVet Hilliard, we recommend using a multivitamin (such as Zoo-med’s Reptivit) twice a week.

Sulcatas respond to bright colors, so always include at least one brightly colored food in your selection. This also means you have to keep inedible colorful things away from them!

Housing of sulcata tortoises

Due to the tremendous amount of space these tortoises need to roam and graze, keeping them indoors year-round is not advisable. Temporary indoor accommodation should be provided in cold/humid weather.

Outdoor Containment: A dry, heated housing unit must be provided to which they return at night and in inclement weather. If they do not enter and leave this accommodation alone, they must be physically moved. Daily temperatures should range between 29 and 40°C during the day for much of the year. At night, temperatures in their enclosure can drop to 21-26°C. It is recommended that the fences are not see through as many owners report their sulcata attempting to climb over these barriers or breach them to get to the other side. Sulcatas love to dig and are very good at it. You should get material for digging and digging. Ideas for digging material are hay, leaves, grasses or straw. When putting up fences, keep in mind that sulcatas may dig/burrow and dig out of their enclosure. Make sure the fence is not only high enough, but also deep enough to prevent your sulcata from escaping by charging through or burrowing under a fence. Sulcatas need to be kept dry. Precautions must be taken to keep their enclosure free from wet materials and excess moisture. A shallow water bowl with sides low enough for the turtle to reach into should be available at all times when a wallow is not available. Turtles do not swim and can easily drown. You need to make sure they have easy access to the water, but that it’s no deeper than the turtle’s bridge, the section of the shell that connects the carapace (upper shell) and plastron (lower shell). This should be changed daily.

Indoor Keeping Due to a sulcata’s enormous space requirement, indoor keeping should be temporary during periods of cold/humid weather. Indoor keeping must include both sun and cooler retreat areas and a burrow for burrowing. A feeding place and a shallow water bowl must also be provided. UV-B lighting must be provided, as well as appropriate temperature ranges both during the day (80°F, 27°C) with a sun range (100°F, 39°C) and at night (72°F, 22°C).

Health problems of sulcata tortoises

The most common health problems encountered are the result of poor nutrition and/or poor husbandry (environment and living conditions). Calcium Deficiency: This can manifest itself in a number of ways; including turbinate softening and metabolic bone disease. This is prevented by making sure you are feeding an appropriate diet and that your sulcata has access to natural sunlight or a full spectrum UVA/UVB light source. High protein: This can manifest itself in a number of ways, including shell pyramidal formation and a buildup of uric acid in the bladder, causing life-threatening urinary obstruction. This is prevented by an appropriate diet. Respiratory illness: This is characterized by discharge from the eyes or nose and possibly noisy/rough breathing. This is prevented by an appropriate diet and lifestyle. If at any time your turtle is overly lethargic, not eating, or showing other signs of illness, it is important to have it checked out by a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles. When ill for an extended period of time, many reptiles will develop irreversible liver and kidney damage, so they should be screened sooner rather than later. Suggested tests include x-rays and/or blood work to assess general health and guide direct treatment.

We hope this article gives you the tips you need to keep your sulcata tortoises healthy.

More information on Sulcata tortoises

From MedVets Vogel- und Exotenservice | Posted InPet Owners | Keyword bird & exotics

Arrhenatherum elatius)

Like many grains, oats have the ability to absorb excess nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus when grown on fertilized soil. Provided the soil is not fertilized, then oat grass is good for turtles (especially grazing species), but don’t grow on fertilized soil and don’t let turtles eat the seed heads as they are high in protein. Do not confuse with Tall Oat Grass/False Oat Grass (which is a different plant.

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EXTERNAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR TURTLES By Jonathan Rheins

Turtles are among the most intelligent and responsive reptile pets one can own. Her personable demeanor and simple dietary needs add to her attractiveness. In addition to the positive qualities mentioned above, however, there are certain aspects of tortoise care that can prove to be a chore for all but the most prepared keepers.

As active and potentially huge creatures, many species require fairly large enclosures, with some species being impossible to house indoors when fully grown. For these reasons, many turtle keepers choose to design and utilize outdoor habitats for their animals. These can be either full-time or part-time quarters for the animals, depending on the turtle’s size, species, and native climate.

In addition to providing enough space for a healthy level of activity, keeping them outdoors also provides the turtles with natural, unfiltered sunlight, fresh air, and the opportunity to forage on organic plants and weeds.

Below are some guidelines for housing turtles, as well as some best practices to help ensure that both the owner and the animals in the house benefit from this arrangement.

SPECIES OF TURTLE

The type of turtle you have will have a big impact on how successfully you will house them outdoors. Large species are often very tolerant of temperature changes, but are extremely strong and potentially destructive to your property. While smaller species are easier to contain physically, they can cool down or overheat much more quickly than larger, more massive animals.

In addition to the size, the domestic climate of the animal must also be taken into account. Tropical species like red-footed and mountain turtles thrive in Florida and other southern states, where summers are hot and humid. The same animals may not fare as well in drier areas with cooler nights.

Finally, one should consider whether or not the species in question will brumate (overwinter). While brumation is a natural survival tactic employed by many reptile species, it comes with its share of dangers. If you plan to keep a growling species outdoors, you should carefully study their particular needs and fully understand the risks involved.

Basically, you should choose wisely when buying a turtle. These animals live long lives and you should be prepared to house them throughout their lives. Try to select a species that is not only appropriate for size, but one that is capable of surviving in the outdoors where you live.

SIZE & AGE

Baby turtles should never be kept outdoors. Instead, they should be reared indoors under controlled conditions until they are safely large enough to fend for themselves outside.

When deciding if it’s time to take an animal outside, on the nicest of days, you should try it first. If everything looks good, try a few days in a row, then a few more, and slowly make the transition. It is imperative that you closely monitor the health and behavior of the animals during this shift to make absolutely sure no adverse effects occur.

SAFETY

In standard indoor enclosures, turtles rarely make the list as accomplished escape artists. In an outdoor environment, however, escapes seem not only more frequent, but also of much greater importance.

If your turtle enclosure is built directly on the ground, you should expect your animals to try to dig up at some point. This great escape isn’t always intentional, but it still results in a missing pet. To prevent this, ensure that any walls or fences are buried at least 30cm into the ground, even deeper for larger animals. Some keepers advocate using a grating or solid floor, but this makes grooming significantly more difficult and poses a risk of injury to your turtle if it tries to burrow through this barrier.

The boundary walls should also be high enough to prevent animals from climbing out. While tortoises as a group are not typically considered expert climbers, some species are quite capable of scaling chain links, and all species are capable of surprising you with a hidden talent.

In addition to the actual height of the enclosure walls, the material used should not offer too many tempting steps. Instead, use a smooth surface that appears more difficult to climb.

Keeping your turtles indoors is only half the battle. You must also ensure that other animals (dogs, raccoons, birds) do not enter your enclosure. For medium to large tortoises, these animals pose little threat, but a smaller species could easily be kidnapped overnight by a hungry possum or inquisitive neighborhood cat.

The use of an attachment for pens with smaller animals is highly recommended. Chain link, screen, or hardware cloth can all be used as long as they still transmit sunlight and are sturdy enough to withstand potential predators.

turtle houses

Even in the most temperate areas, any tortoise kept outdoors should be provided with a sheltered and heated shelter. This can be a modified dog house or something as simple as a reasonably sized plywood box.

These shelters should be gently heated to maintain a normal temperature of around 80 degrees via ceramic heaters or heavy-duty pig blankets. Additionally, the shelter can be stuffed with a fluffy layer of hay for insulation, but ensure there is no risk of fire from the hay and exposed heating elements.

Remember that having a heated shelter does not guarantee that your animals will use it. You need to watch them closely to make sure they make it to the shelter every night. Some pet owners manually move their animals into these shelters every night. Others even forego a shelter altogether and simply move their pets to a garage or similarly warmed area each night.

FINAL THOUGHTS

While the above may seem like a lot of work, actually keeping turtles outdoors is easier than it seems. However, as there are always unknowns and every situation is unique, it is crucial that the pet owner thoroughly understands all aspects before making any outdoor housing decision.

Always research the needs of the species you are working with and make sure you do everything you can to care for them properly both indoors and out. Also, keep in mind that while the methods outlined above are largely successful in many situations, they do not work for everyone, so these are guidelines, not instructions.

If you want to house your animals outdoors, you have to be willing to try different things to see what works best and be willing to make compromises. All the work will be worth it as the benefits of raising a tortoise outdoors in the natural sun far outweigh the inconveniences you incur in the planning phase.

EDITORS’ NOTE

Due to the varied nature of the subjects discussed above, we must advise you to use your best judgment in deciding when and where your tortoises are safe to keep. If in doubt, consult a local veterinarian or expert who may be able to help with your specific needs. Ultimately, LLLREPTILE takes no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by the guidelines provided here.

Diet for captive desert tortoises

One of the most important aspects of turtle care is proper nutrition. These guidelines will help ensure your turtle’s health and longevity.

A healthy diet

Desert tortoises are entirely herbivorous, feeding on a wide variety of plants in the wild. Likewise, the best captive diet is one that offers a variety of foods to meet nutritional needs. Ideally, a captive tortoise should be allowed to graze on grasses, foliage plants, and flowers.

Grass can make a significant contribution to your turtle’s diet if you set up an area large enough for it to graze (at least 6 feet by 6 feet).

Other plants you can grow in your garden that will provide a varied diet include native grasses, dichondra, filaree (herotbill), milkweed, dandelion, hibiscus, wild grape, mulberry, and wildflowers like globe mallow. Your turtle will enjoy the leaves, stems, and flowers of these plants.

Native plant seeds can be purchased from the Arizona Native Plant Society website or by inquiring about native plants at a local nursery. Plants intended for your tortoise to graze must be planted within the enclosure in sufficient quantity to allow for daily grazing.

Commercial product

In general, commercial produce is less nutritious to turtles than native plants due to higher water and lower fiber content. However, produce can serve as an additional source of food if you cannot establish plants within the enclosure. Dark vegetables rich in minerals and vitamins such as collards, kale, mustard greens, kohlrabi, coriander and parsley can be offered as a short-term alternative or as a supplement to grasses.

If dark-colored vegetables and acceptable produce are offered, they should be clean, fresh, and cut into pieces small enough for the turtle to eat. Iceberg lettuce is low in nutrients and should be avoided entirely. Food should be served on a plate or feeding platform to prevent ingestion of gravel or sand that can cause gastrointestinal irritation or upset.

to avoid foods

Many turtles eat foods that are not part of a healthy diet. You can appear perfectly healthy for years, even on a poor diet. In reality, a poor diet, e.g. B. one that is high in sugar (including fruit), protein or animal fats will impair organ function and can eventually lead to the death of your turtle.

Don’t feed your turtle dog or cat chow, monkey chow, or any other foods that are more than 15 percent protein. These cause liver and kidney damage as well as deformed armor growth.

Don’t feed turtles frozen vegetables or high-sodium foods, including canned vegetables, dairy products, bread, and celery.

Please note that tortoises in captivity cannot consume poisonous plants such as oleanders, chinese berries, tree tobacco and toadstools.

fruit as a snack

Fruit should only be offered as a special treat. About once a month, you can feed your turtle a small piece of fruit, such as a strawberry or a quarter slice of peeled watermelon. Fruit, in general, has too much sugar and water to be fed in large quantities and should only be fed in moderation (no more than 10 percent of the diet). Sugars and starches interfere with digestion by changing the type of bacteria that live in the turtle’s rectum.

water

Make sure water is available in the enclosure some days of the week. Keep the water bowl in the same spot so the turtle knows where to find it. Your turtle absorbs a lot of water from its food, so you may not see it drinking frequently. However, turtles like to bathe occasionally, so the water bowl should be only a few inches deep and wide enough for the turtle to sit in.

The Hermann’s tortoise is – along with the spurred tortoise and rimmed tortoise – a Mediterranean tortoise native to the rocky slopes and oak and beech forests of Mediterranean Europe. This attractive yellow and brown shell turtle with thick scales and strong legs is highly sought after for its mild temperament and sheer beauty. Caring for this tortoise is relatively easy if you live in a suitable climate with plenty of outdoor space. Otherwise the interior care is complicated.

Species Overview Common Names: Greek Tortoise Scientific Name: Testudo hermanni Adult Size: 6 to 8 inches Life Expectancy: Average, up to 75 years, although some may live longer

Hermann’s tortoise behavior and temperament

The passive and gentle Hermann’s tortoise rarely bites. It usually only bites other turtles, pets, or humans to defend itself. It doesn’t like being touched, preferring to stay securely grounded.

This active creature loves to run, dig, forage, and sunbathe. It’s not a big climber. Turtles interact frequently and may fight, especially during spring and fall mating season. During courtship, male turtles will chase and ram females, sometimes causing damage. Only bring males and females together if you intend to mate them; otherwise house them separately.

Housing the Hermann’s tortoise

Adult Hermann’s tortoises don’t do well indoors, so keep this in mind before bringing one home. Since outdoor accommodation is highly recommended, your outdoor climate should be very similar to the climate of the Mediterranean region (Italy, Greece, Bulgaria and Romania).

A turtle habitat should consist of a shallow pan of water (preferably buried in the ground) for drinking and cooling, rocks, small trees and shrubs, and a shelter to protect them from extreme weather and predators. The enclosure should also be escape-proof with fences or side walls buried a few feet below ground, as these active turtles tend to burrow.

If you ultimately decide to house your tortoise indoors, or bring them indoors during the colder weather months, a relatively large enclosure will be required (at least 60cm x 120cm).

To keep the enclosure clean, scoop up visible pet waste when you notice it. Change the water bowl daily. You need to change the substrate at least every month or two.

heat

When housed outside, daytime temperatures should average around 27°C to 30°C and not drop below 18°C ​​to 21°C at night. Mimic these temperatures in an indoor enclosure. Lighting will be your primary heat source for indoor enclosures. Whether indoors or outdoors, it’s also necessary to have a cool, shaded area so your tortoise can escape the heat. Make sure the bowl of water you provide is deep enough for your pet to immerse their entire body in if they need to cool off.

light

Outdoors, the sun provides adequate lighting. If indoors, provide a sun light or heat lamp that mimics the sun, complete with a basking spot (a set of low, flat stones works well) with an ambient temperature of about 95 F (35 C).

Turtles need UVB light to synthesize vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 helps the turtle absorb calcium, which is vital for bone structure and growth. All indoor enclosures should contain a 10 percent fluorescent UVB tube lamp with a reflector to scatter the UVB rays down towards the turtle.

humidity

Humidity is not a big problem for turtles. As long as the humidity is at least 25% or more (most indoor and outdoor environments are this), the ambient humidity is fine for your turtle.

substrate

Most pet owners use a substrate or bedding to line the bottom of the cage. Turtles use it to dig. For indoor enclosures, a mixture of soil, sand, and composted cypress bark should make up the substrate in your pet’s enclosure. The compost mixture should be about two inches deep for your turtle to burrow in to cool off or get activity and exercise.

food and water

A turtle’s diet should be modeled after wild foraging. Choose a variety of leafy greens and grasses to feed your pet. Complement vegetables with smaller amounts of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber and carrots, apples, apricots, grapes, melons, peaches and strawberries. Feed it once a day at the same time from multiple feeding bowls spread around the enclosure. Feed them as much food as they will eat within 15 to 30 minutes, or you can estimate that the pile of food should be about the size of the animal’s shell.

An indoor turtle needs nutrient boosters to make up for the lack of direct sunlight. Feed your pet a quality turtle food that contains calcium and vitamin D3 supplements. Wild turtles will also eat insects, snails, and carrion, but if you do feed these animals, offer them in moderation. Turtles are primarily vegetarian; Never feed them dog or cat food.

Change and clean the water bowl daily and refill with filtered water.

hibernation

If the enclosure or outside temperature falls below 50 F, your pet turtle may decide to hibernate. Some species overwinter in the wild for up to five months, usually between October and April. However, indoor turtles find it difficult to maintain environmental conditions conducive to safe hibernation. Therefore, it’s best to maintain a constant housing temperature to keep your turtle active year-round.

Common Health Problems

During the mating season, male turtles become aggressive towards other males and females. Monitor and examine turtles daily for wounds and isolate injured animals. Open wounds need to be cleaned and treated with antibacterial agents to prevent infection. If you cannot do this, consult an exotics veterinarian.

Turtles in captivity are also susceptible to several diseases:

Respiratory infection: Usually caused by inadequate lighting, heating, fresh food, clean water, or an environmental stressor; An exotics vet would likely need to treat with antibiotics.

Usually caused by inadequate lighting, heating, fresh food, clean water, or an environmental stressor; An exotics vet would likely need to treat with antibiotics. Metabolic Bone Disease: Caused by a lack of calcium or a problem absorbing calcium; best prevented with adequate full-spectrum lighting or direct sunlight; an exotics vet would likely prescribe a liquid calcium treatment.

Caused by a lack of calcium or a problem absorbing calcium; best prevented with adequate full-spectrum lighting or direct sunlight; an exotics vet would likely prescribe a liquid calcium treatment. Cloacal prolapse: Often caused by dehydration, a stone or hardened uric acid blocking the bladder; This requires veterinarian intervention.

Choosing your Hermann’s tortoise

It is best to buy your turtle directly from a breeder. Buying from a reputable breeder will ensure your pet is not from a source that depletes wild populations, and the breeders provide excellent care too. Exotic vets and other reptile owners can recommend reputable breeders, or you can find them at reptile shows and shows. You can expect to pay $150 to $500 for a Hermann’s tortoise. The price goes up for older tortoises considering the cost of raising them to adulthood and that they thrive.

Do not purchase a Hermann’s tortoise from a pet store or retailer as there is a greater chance that the tortoises could have come from a non-reputable source. Usually, the living environment and care are below average, potentially increasing your risk of getting a sick pet.

Signs of a healthy turtle include a smooth shell with no odd bumps or deformities. Eyes, nose and mouth should be clear with no discharge. Check that the faecal opening is clean. The droppings should be well formed and not watery.

Different species of turtles

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