Gyproc Coving Mitre Box? Top Answer Update

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Can you use a mitre box for coving?

Cutting Coving Using a Mitre Box or Mitre Block

The first thing you will need is an accurate cutting guide. The traditional way of cutting an angle for a corner is to use a coving mitre block, also known as a mitre box.

Is coving cut at 45 degrees?

To cut external corners, mark the lengths of coving with left and right as you did before. Place the left length in the mitre block and cut at a 45-degree angle using as guides the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left. Use the piece on the left side.

How do you use a cove mitre box?

Gyproc Cove Mitre Box

What angle do you cut coving corners?

‘Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45º angle using as guides the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left. Use the piece on the left side. ‘Mirror the saw position to cut the right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right side.

Gyproc Cove Mitre Box

Is ceiling coving old fashioned?

Old fashioned coving creates a curve between the top of the wall and the ceiling, and is usually painted white, to create an approximate mirror image of the skirting board at the other end of the wall. Vintage chic is the reason why retro-fitting this type of coving has become so popular, even in modern homes.

Gyproc Cove Mitre Box

HOW TO CUT COVING Gypro Cove internal \u0026 external corner cutting video

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Gyproc Coving mitre box | DIY at B&Q

Product information. 1 year Guarantee; Guarantee – 1 year; Purpose – For making accurate mitre cuts in coving. For use with 100mm and 127mm we coving.

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Source: www.diy.com

Date Published: 10/20/2021

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Gyproc Coving mitre box | Tradepoint

1 year Guarantee; Guarantee – 1 year; Purpose – For making accurate mitre cuts in coving. For use with 100mm and 127mm we coving …

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Source: www.trade-point.co.uk

Date Published: 8/25/2021

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Cove Mitre Box – Dry Lining Supplies

Plastic mitre box for 127mm cove and Artex. … Cove Mitre Box. £4.80. (Inc £5.76). View Options. Stock Error. Gyproc Stainless Knife 4″. £7.87. (Inc £9.44).

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Source: www.dry-lining.co.uk

Date Published: 4/28/2021

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coving mitre box – Amazon.co.uk

1-48 of 130 results for “coving mitre box”. RESULTS …

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Source: www.amazon.co.uk

Date Published: 8/21/2022

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Gyproc cornice 135 – Mitre template – SpecifiedBy

Mitre templates. These templates are designed to help you create mitred corners for Gyproc Cornice 135. You will need both templates to cut internal and.

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Source: www.specifiedby.com

Date Published: 3/26/2021

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How to Put up Coving

Coving, or cornice as it is sometimes called, is a decorative finish applied around the top of the room to hide the joint between the wall top and the ceiling.

Although not common these days, it can add a classy and stylish finish to a room if you choose to have it retrofitted. With that in mind, this guide will cover how to customize fillets. Read on to learn how.

Putting up coving really finishes a room

The different types of fillets

Covings come in many different styles, but there are also different types of coving materials: plaster, styrofoam, and duropolymer coving.

The most traditional is the gypsum fillet, and the first part of this project covers the application of gypsum fillets and lends itself to the installation of polyurethane fillets – also called duropolymer fillets, like those made by ORAC, which we explore in more detail below. Scroll down further in this project to find step-by-step instructions on how to install coving with images.

The same method can be used to attach a polystyrene skirting, which is the cheapest skirting, although not as durable or as versatile.

The most common fillet sizes are 125mm and 85mm. Sizing can be confusing as cove size is given as an imaginary line across the cove rather than a physical height or projection – think of this as the hypotenuse of a triangle with the wall and ceiling forming the other two sides. See the image below in the “Differences between cove and cornice” section to illustrate what we mean.

Comparison of plaster moldings with Orac polyurethane moldings

Orac Decor plaster moldings Weight Light Very heavy Strength Unbreakable/clean cuts Very fragile/easily broken and chipped Installation Simple, quick and easy Complicated, messy and time consuming Labor cost/skills Minimal labor (one person) Skilled worker required, 1-2 people Painting Only 1 coat 2-3 coats required Repairs No repair work required “Touch up” required after installation if cracks appear

Orac Polyurethane Coving

The following step-by-step guide to cutting fillets with a miter saw includes images of ORAC who manufacture a range of trim and finishing products from a lightweight, flexible and durable polyurethane material.

Their collection includes a wide range of decorative features that offer numerous advantages over ‘traditional’ plaster-based products. The revolutionary nature of the material and the modern molding process allow for a sharper level of detail in the designs, making it perfect for the home, particularly where distinction and elegance are key.

Weighing only a fraction of the weight of plaster, the polyurethane cladding is remarkably strong and resistant to impact or damage on site or during installation. Consequently, these ornaments are quick and easy to install (usually in about half the time compared to plaster, with no need for a second person) and without the hassle, mess or waste: saving the installer time and money.

Additionally, there are none of the usual concerns of cracking or shrinkage normally associated with plaster – ORAC ornaments adapt to the building as it moves with the seasons, enhancing the look of your home for many years without a fading repair is required.

Orac products were introduced to the UK from Belgium (where they have been successfully manufactured for the past 25 years and have been supplied to more than 50 countries worldwide) by a number of UK stockists including Davuka.

They also sell a range called Axxent, which is an extruded, high density, impact and water resistant polymer resin called Duropolymer. You can learn more about it by watching the video here.

We like working with these products because they are easier for the DIYer to get a good result. They are also much easier to cut and manage with just one person. “I can’t believe how quick and easy it was to install and how amazing it looks” is the typical reaction of people installing the ORAC Decor and Axxent range for the first time.

These products are cut and assembled in the same way as the products for coving and cornices in plaster or gyproc.

The Orac Décor range is pre-primed, ready to be painted or stained for the desired finish, with only a single coat required. All cove and panel styles are also available as ‘flexible’ which allows mounting to curved walls and bays or creating circular patterns – see images below for examples.

Craftsmen and DIYers alike are finding that this is undoubtedly a much better material to work with. In fact, it is becoming the new “traditional” product material replacing plaster moldings.

Visit Davuka’s FAQ page to get the brochure in paper form, to request a material sample and more information about these products.

The difference between coving and cornice

There is some confusion about the difference between cornice and coving. They’re both decorative trims, but the words aren’t different ways of saying the same thing. Coves are designed to fit into the corners of a room, usually the corner between the top of the wall and the edge of the ceiling.

Flutes usually have a uniform profile with similar moldings on the top and bottom, meaning they are symmetrical when viewed from the side. (So ​​if it protrudes 10cm above the ceiling, it would also fall 10cm down the wall.) Covings are also usually fairly simple in design, though not always.

A side profile of a haunch section

Cornice is a decorative architectural molding used to add visual interest to a room or a feature within a room. Cornices can be attached to cabinets or used in place of or in addition to coving to create a decorative room boundary. There are even cornices designed to accept uplighters, allowing you to cast light across a wall and ceiling, creating a soft indirect light that’s great for mood lighting.

Wave Uplighter Cornice makes an impact in this contemporary space – image courtesy of Davuka

Profile of the Wave Uplighter Cornice – Image courtesy of Davuka

Learn more about the differences between cornices and covings in this handy article by Davuka.

Cornice and cove profiles

A profile is the design of the coves and cornices. Just as a person’s face has a profile, so do these moldings have a profile. If you look at them from the side you can see the profile, which can be a simple curve or an elaborate series of curves and patterns.

Cove profiles have some great names: Egg and Dart, Dentil, Cove, Rope, and Twisted Rope. You’ll also find these designs on Cornice Profiles, as well as Swag and Bow, Acanthus Leaf, Swan Neck, and Flemish Scroll, among others.

Example of Egg and Dart Coving – Image courtesy of Davuka

Georgian style dentil block cornice – Image courtesy of Davuka

We also use the term “profile” for skirting boards, with the most common skirting board profiles being Torus, Bullnose, Lambs Tongue and Blenheim.

Tools for setting up coving

The following list of tools is really essential to ensure your work goes smoothly and the finished item is top notch:

A hand saw – Choose a saw with fine or medium teeth and a stiff blade to ensure a straight cut

miter box (also called a miter block) or you can use a miter saw or miter template as a cutting guide, e.g. B. a Wonder Miter (see below)

Glue – You can use any glue glue, either ready made or powder glue that you mix yourself. You can also use a silicone based glue and sealant gun

pencil

Bubble level or chalk line – for marking out the walls

Hammer and Plate Pins – to support the fillet while the glue cures

Sponge or cloth and water – to remove excess glue

filling gauge

Trimming knife – also known as a utility knife or commonly known as a Stanley knife

Brush – for mixing sealant into the joints

How to miter fillets

If you would like more information on fitting covings in a printable Word document, click here.

Also, if you scroll down the page a bit you will find more pictures and diagrams that walk through the process of cutting fillets.

TIP: Gouging is a skill that requires practice, so the very first rule for the beginner at gouging is: Please buy an extra length to practice!

Miter joints are formed in the corners of rooms or where the coving is to end partway along a wall, and the end must be finished with a piece of coving that returns to the wall for a clean finish (see image below).

External miter joint

Internal and external miter joints

External miter joints are made around projections in a space such as a B. chimney breasts formed. Internal miter joints are formed in the corners of the room (see below).

Fitting an Inner Miter Joint – An outer miter joint is visible on the right side of the chimney breast

When measuring the fillet for a cut, make sure you measure along the edge that will be placed against the wall.

TIP: To keep track of the edge of the wall, scribble along that edge with a pencil, or write the word Wall on the back of the bar at various intervals along that edge.

When cutting the molding, place the length of molding upside down, i.e. with the wall edge up, in the miter box. See the images below for an illustration.

Illustration of cutting the outer left and right corners

Illustration of cutting the inside left and right corners

As you can see in the pictures above, this means that when you take the strip out of the miter box, turn it the other way before you attach it to the wall.

Angles are weird things, and we know they can be tricky to get right. We receive hundreds of questions about coving cutting on our forum. One tip we can give you is that coving is made a lot easier if you use the right tools and take the time to measure carefully: then measure again.

If you do this carefully, you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to add a beautiful feature to the room.

Cutting fillets with a miter box or miter block

Miter block for cutting miter joints – available here in our online shop

The first thing you need is an accurate cutting guide. The traditional way to cut an angle for a corner is to use a domed miter block, also known as a miter box. These are specially made for coving and are available in different sizes.

Some miter boxes have an adjustable gauge to secure the material while it is being cut. We use a 125mm box that will hold the largest standard size of coving and then we use a wooden batten fitted inside to secure smaller covings.

TIP: Make sure you secure the lath in the miter box. The material needs to be held firmly in place to achieve a good professional finish.

If your scarf joint doesn’t fit snugly in your miter box, you run the risk of it moving as you cut. Even a little movement can throw the miter joint out and make it very difficult to get a clean job.

As you can see, miter boxes come with a straight or butt joint slot for the saw and two 45 degree slots for making inside and outside corners. The slots have numbers as you can see. This is to avoid confusion when cutting, and believe me, it’s easy to get confused!

For more on how to use this numbering to create the joints you need, see the How to plan your coving space guide below.

Finding nooks in your room

Setting up covings in a square room is relatively easy. Where you have chimney breasts or other features to work on, you will need to cut more miter joints.

If you’re lucky, your rooms will be square or almost square. Unfortunately, many rooms don’t have walls that are at 90° to each other, and some areas may be anything but square. When cutting coving, odd angles affect the miter you need to cut for the corners.

For rooms with oddly shaped corners, you can purchase an “angle finder” like the one below – also available at good hardware and hardware stores.

Angle finder for cutting miters for odd shaped corners

Place the angle finder in the corner of the room and find its angle by pushing it into the corner with your arms against the walls. Read the angle from the display.

Divide this angle by two and mark this on the miter box. Cut a groove in the miter box at that angle by working gently with the saw and you have the template to clean that corner as well.

Use the same groove to cut both sides of the miter, but if you’re using a chamfer with an asymmetric chamfer, simply flip the material over when making the second cut; I.e. with a miter cut the upper edge points to you and with the other the lower edge points to you.

Applying fillets is not difficult. It’s a matter of taking your time and making things the way you want them to be. Be prepared to sacrifice a piece of fullering as a practice piece to understand how the tools work and use it to get the miters right. It will save you money in the long run.

How to plan your space for coving

The miter box is numbered so that when facing a wall, the right miter is number 1 if it’s an interior angle, or number 3 if it’s an exterior angle, and the left miter is the number 2 or 4 is .

Don’t let that put you off. Use your practice piece and everything will become clear. Number the walls as described above and shown in these images below:

Number the walls according to the numbers on the miter block

You need to make sure that you carefully plan the cuts you need to avoid wasting and wasting material.

Measure and mark

Measure each section of the wall and write it on your room plan, you can also write it directly on the wall.

Take a small “template” cove piece and place it flush against the wall and ceiling, mark the wall and ceiling along the top and bottom of the template at various distances around the room (about a meter apart depending on length). your spirit level).

Make sure the haunch piece is in the correct position in relation to the walls and ceiling. This ensures that the fillet is evenly spaced between the wall and ceiling, with the edges lying flush against the wall and ceiling, not crooked or angled.

Measuring for fillets and marking walls for fillets

Use these lines as a guide and use a spirit level to mark along the wall and ceiling to ensure your line is level and straight. Alternatively, you can use a piece of chalk string held between two panel pins on either end of the wall). You will work on these lines later when it comes to gluing covings.

You may wish to offer a full length cove length to ensure it looks right visually as well. This is especially important if you know that your walls and ceiling have crooked angles, aren’t straight, or aren’t at right angles to one another. Don’t try to adjust the bar to any bumps, just make sure it’s straight. You can always fill gaps between the coving and the wall or ceiling later.

Be sure to remove any peeling paint or plaster and wallpaper from the wall and ceiling between the lines.

Use a multi-sensor and mark the position of pipes or cables with a pencil below the line you drew on the wall.

TIP: If you are gluing a molding to fresh plaster, brush diluted PVA onto the wall with a brush and let it dry before attempting to glue your molding. This will prevent the dry plaster from sucking the moisture out of the adhesive too quickly and give you time to work with the adhesive before it comes off.

TIP: If you are working on a painted surface, use a Stanley knife to score the area closest to your pencil marks to provide a base for the adhesive.

Start with the longest section first. Check the width of the wall where you want to start.

TIP: It’s always a good idea to deal with all internal sections first, otherwise you might feel “locked up”.

Mark the measurement you took from the wall on the wall edge of the first coving.

cutting the fillet

TIP: It’s always best to start with the longest lengths first to avoid waste.

If you have a wall longer than a fillet, you can join two lengths with a butt joint (a straight joint) or, for a cleaner finish and stronger joint, use a miter joint at a 45° angle the miter block as a guide. (You must cut an inside miter and an outside miter to join two sheets together in a straight line.)

A butt joint is formed by a straight cut

TIP: Choose a fine-toothed saw to cut smoothly through the cast and avoid fraying the backing paper as you cut.

In our illustration, let’s start with the back panel and work our way clockwise.

Start with an inside left miter: the molding fits into the miter box from right to left, wall edge up – so the material you use is the left piece of molding and the scrap material is on the right.

Make the first cut in the groove marked 2 on your block. This fits in the left corner of your wall.

Mark the length you need for the wall on the coving. (Remember to measure along the wall edge of the coving). Slide the bar through the miter box from right to left. Make your second cut in the slot marked 1 on your miter block. This fits in the right corner of your room.

Offer the straight cut length to ensure the bar fits. Make any adjustments needed, then sand the ends with fine sandpaper for a clean finish.

Now the left inner miter will fit in the right corner of our illustrated space. Check the measurement of the wall, mark the length needed on the coving, slide into the box from right to left and miter using the groove marked 3 on the box around the left half of the outside corner to create.

The next joint in this example is a right outside miter on the chimney breast so you will need to cut the piece to length using the groove marked 4 on the box.

Secure the fillet in the miter block for an accurate miter cut. Note the sliding metal pins that hold the slats in place

Once each piece is cut, first lay it out without glue to check it fits and the connection is correct. Adjust each cut as needed, then sand down the end for a smooth finish.

Continue working your way through the room in this manner until all the covings have been cut.

You can glue each piece of the bar in place if you like.

See Fixing Covings with Glue below – after we’ve looked at a few alternatives for cutting covings.

Using a “miracle miter” to cut fillets

If you don’t want to use a miter block to cut coving, you can try a coving miter tool called the Wonder Miter, which is a simple guide that sits on the inside of the cove and has shaped notches that grip the plaster and hold it securely while doing so They cut. It is suitable for all cove sizes up to 125 mm.

The makers have the angles worked out so if you place it securely in the coving you’ll get a good, accurate angle cut for your corner, and assuming your walls are square you’ll find it’s a neat job with little post-processing creates. They are available in a metal trade model and a DIY plastic version.

Wondermitre Trade Cornice Miter Cut Guide – Available here in our online shop

Cut the coving with a miter saw

A coving saw works much like a miter block, but after the coving is secured, the blade guide is adjusted to the correct position to make an accurate cut at the correct angle.

The back guide of the miter saw is marked “Wall” and has stops for the edge of the bar to rest against. The base of the saw is marked with the standard sizes of battens so you can easily position the batten length correctly in the miter saw.

Cutting fillets with a miter saw

Fastening of the groove with glue

Mix the glue into a thick paste according to package directions, or use a ready-mixed molding glue.

Spread the adhesive evenly along both long edges using a spatula like the one below – see the decoration section of our tool shop for a selection of putty knives and spatulas.

Spatula with a flexible blade makes it easier to apply glue – available here in our online shop

Alternatively, you can use a tube of silicone-based glue and a sealant gun to apply the glue.

Regardless of which method you use to apply glue, you don’t need to apply glue to the center back of the coves – this won’t make contact with the wall or ceiling, so you’d just waste it.

TIP: Don’t be afraid to apply too much glue, you can easily scrape it off with the spatula and a damp cloth or sponge to clean the wall. You want it to only push out at the edges when you press the bar into place.

Align the coving with the lines you marked on the wall and ceiling. Make sure the left end is only a few mm from the left wall.

Press firmly along the entire length of the strip.

For the second and subsequent fillets, you must also apply adhesive to the miter to be made.

Use your spatula to press adhesive into any gaps, and press adhesive into any joints that don’t quite meet and any ripples in the surface of the wall. It can be useful to use a plasterer’s “little tool” for this. You can find a selection of small tools in our online tool shop

Small tools come in different shapes and sizes

Scrape off excess glue from walls and ceilings, then clean with a damp cloth or sponge.

If you’re concerned that the strength of the glue alone won’t hold up a long strip, tack some small nails or panel pins underneath to hold it in place until the glue has set. The nail holes can be filled later.

TIP: Always look for wires and/or pipes before nailing them into the wall. Use a scanner to avoid costly and dangerous punctures in pipes or electrical systems.

Adjusting fillets step by step in pictures

Staking out walls and ceilings for fillets

Measuring fillets for a right outside miter

haunch measurement for a left outer miter

Mark the edge of the wall on the back of the coving

Mark a right inside miter on the fillet

Mark a right inside miter

Cut an outside corner for the right wall with a miter saw

Applying glue to the back of the bar

Applying glue to the back of the bar

Align the haunches with the guides on the walls and ceiling

Align the haunches with the guides on the walls and ceiling

Remove excess glue from the edge of the strip

Miter joints and gaps between fillets should be filled

Apply decorator’s caulk to the edges of the coving

Apply decorator sealant to the miter joints

Let the glue dry and then decorate the coving

Finished inside corner in cove

How To Cut Coving Corners: 3 Ways Guide UK (Do This!)

Crown moldings can add a stylish touch to any interior. Its task is to create a smooth transition between the ceiling and walls, hide uneven edges and mask painting errors.

Installation is easy, but many beginners struggle with gouging. If you’ve never installed cornices before, this guide will teach you how to cut the perfect corners.

How to cut corners with a miter box

The easiest way to cut fillets is with a miter block or box. This tool is specially designed for this purpose and is very easy to use.

You can use the following method for Styrofoam moldings. However, plaster and PVC cornices might be more difficult to cut by hand.

what you will need

miter block

chop saw

sandpaper

tape measure

pencil

1. Cut coving inside corners

Most coving ranges come with pre-cut corners. However, these areas are usually more expensive.

If you want to minimize the cost of decorating your home, then you should opt for simple cornices and cut the corners yourself.

The secret to precise coving cutting is the right miter box.

Miter boxes come in different sizes; Buy one big enough to fit your cornices properly. When placed in the box, both edges must lie flat against the bottom and side of the box.

To cut inside corners, mark two lengths of molding left and right depending on where they will go on the wall.

Place the left rail in the miter box, ceiling edge down. The edge of the wall must be flush with the side of the block.

Insert the chop saw into the left 45 degree corner slot at the top of the box (the side farthest from you). Run the saw through the right 45 degree corner slot in the bottom of the box (the side of the box closest to you).

Cut off the left length and save for use.

Do the same for the right piece but use the opposite slots (top right and bottom left). Keep the right length.

2. Cut coving outside corners

To cut outside corners, left and right mark the strip lengths as before.

Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45 degree angle using the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left as guides. Use the piece on the left.

Mirror the saw position to cut the right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right.

To simplify the rest of the corners, you can draw a fillet miter template.

The video below shows you how to use a miter box:

3. Smooth the edges

When you’ve cut all the corners, use sandpaper to remove any burrs. If you don’t need to use the full length of a cornice, use the tape measure and pencil to mark the portion you need to cut out. Miter box also has a 90 degree guide that you can use to cut cornices to size.

You should also keep in mind that cornices are easier to install on flat ceilings and walls. When yours are done with Artex you may want to remove the texture first.

How to cut fillets without a miter box

The above method works well for polystyrene. If you want to mount PVC or stucco moldings, you will need to cut the corners with a miter saw.

Alternatively, you can also cut Styrofoam strips without a miter box after marking your own guidelines.

Cut crown molding corners with a miter saw

A miter saw, commonly referred to as a chop saw, is a power tool designed to cut wood at a 45 degree angle.

Swap out the blade for one suitable for styrofoam, plastic, or masonry, depending on what material your cornices are made of (polystyrene, PVC, or plaster).

Use the miter saw as instructed in the instruction manual to cut inside and outside corners.

Cut crown molding corners with a hacksaw

If you don’t have a miter saw and don’t want to buy a miter block, use a protractor and ruler to measure 45-degree angles on your styrofoam battens and cut them with a hacksaw.

Follow the same instructions as for miter box cutting to draw the angles and make the cuts.

Conclusion

The easiest way to cut fillets is with a miter block. Alternatively, you can use a miter saw or hacksaw.

No matter what tool you use, remember: To miter the left side of a corner, cut left for inside and through right for outside.

To miter the right side of a corner, cut through right for inside and left for outside.

Gyproc Cove Mitre Box

Gyproc Cove Miter Box provides a simple guide to cutting miter angles on Artex and Gyproc Cove and Cornice. Instructions are included. It is an ideal tool for cutting miters on 100mm and 127mm Gyproc Cove. In a 4-pack.

For more information on our product warranties, performance and compliance click here.

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