Hard Shell Gourd Seeds? The 230 Detailed Answer

Whether you grow them yourself or find interesting varieties at your garden center, pumpkins have become a decorative staple both outdoors and indoors in the fall. The pumpkin family consists of hundreds of species – some are edible, some are not. Considered a fruit, pumpkins grow on vines and come in interesting shapes, colors, and patterns. Their size ranges from the size of the palm of your hand to hundreds of pounds.

Soft-skinned squashes are from the genus Cucurbita and typically come in shades of orange, gold, and green. They are often edible and used decoratively in autumnal cornucopias. Watermelon, squash, squash, and gourd are all members of the cucurbita family. Larger, hard-skinned squashes, also known as ornamental squashes, belong to the genus Lagenaria. These can be dried and made into birdhouses, bottles and other shapes.

Some edible squashes include:

acorn squash

watermelon

field gourd

calabash (bottle gourd)

Butternut Squash

Some decorative (non-edible) squashes that are best for drying are:

Birdhouse Pumpkin

Corsican pumpkin

Dipper Squash

Sponge Loofah Gourd

Spinning gourd from Tennessee

Drying and curing pumpkins for decorations is a simple process, but it can take time. The outer skin can dry in about a week, but it can take 6 months for the pumpkin to “cure” when the inside is completely dry and ready to be sanded, sculpted, or carved. Here are the steps:

Harvest the squashes – If you’re picking squashes instead of buying them from a garden center, be sure to cut them off the vine — don’t pull on them. Pulling can damage the stem and make it more susceptible to developing fungus. Ideally, you should wait two weeks after the first frost has killed its leaves before harvesting your pumpkins. The squash stalks should be brown and the vines should be dead. Cut each stalk a few inches above the fruit. Handle the squashes gently to avoid damaging the skin, which can cause the squash to rot as it dries.

Wash and sanitize the gourds – Wash the gourds in warm, soapy water and let them air dry. Then wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol to ensure the surface is disinfected and clean. You can also clean and sanitize the gourds in one step by mixing a bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water and washing the gourds with this mixture.

Cure the squashes – Place the squashes in a dark, dry place where they can stay for at least 6 months. You can either place the gourds on a screen or ventilated surface (single layer), making sure the gourds aren’t touching each other, or hang them with twine, making sure there is enough space around each gourd to allow for good air circulation to allow.

Check and Turn Pumpkins – Check your pumpkins every few days and discard any that begin to rot, soften, or shrink. If you’ve placed your squashes on trellis or a ventilated surface, rotate them every few weeks to ensure they dry evenly. If you see signs of mold growth, wipe it down with a damp cloth dipped in bleach. As long as the squash is still hard to the touch, it should be fine.

Decorating Pumpkins – Once the pumpkins are properly dried and cured, it’s time to prepare them for decorating! Place the squashes in a container with some water and gently rub any mold stains on the surface with a plastic scouring pad (not steel wool). Allow the clean pumpkins to air dry completely, then lightly sand the surface with 100 grit sandpaper to create a smooth, even surface for decorating. If you plan on painting your pumpkins, apply a primer first. If you are carving your pumpkins and plan to use them outside, apply a coat of beeswax or shellac to protect them. If you have painted your pumpkins and plan to use them outdoors, apply a UV protective sealer/clear polyurethane to preserve the colours.

Photo credit – All images in this blog post were taken at Farmside Gardens in Sussex, NJ.

Whether you just harvested the seeds or have stored them for a year or more, checking seed viability will help you determine how many seeds to plant for the desired crop size. Place five saved pumpkin seeds between two wet paper towels, then seal the towels in a plastic bag. Keep the bag in a warm area of ​​70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit for seven to 14 days, and then check the seeds for germination. When all the seeds sprout, your saved seeds are fully viable. If only half sprout, you may need to plant twice as many seeds to get the desired number of plants.

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Plain and simple, growing pumpkins is fun, and if you’re going to be growing pumpkins next year, it’s time to start planning. We grow about six different types of squash each summer, starting sowing seeds indoors in mid spring and moving the plants into the garden once the threat of frost has passed in May.

Growing Pumpkins:

There are two main types – hard-shelled (Lagenaria siceraria) and ornamental (Cucurbita pepo). The tendrils of hard-shell gourds have pretty, white flowers that open at night to yield green or mottled fruit of various shapes and sizes. The squashes can be dried after harvest, will take on a soft tan color and can be stored indefinitely. The salted fruits of hard-shell gourds have been used in crafts for centuries as musical instruments (e.g. maracas) and more practically used as bottles, ladles, bowls, bushels, birdhouses and baskets.

Ornamental squashes, on the other hand, are related to squash and squash and are best enjoyed in the fall, fresh from their vines and used as a seasonal decoration. The plants produce golden yellow flowers, similar to their pumpkin cousins, which ripen into colorful fruit. Unlike hard-skinned gourds, these fruits don’t dry well, but they can be waxed or peeled after harvest to extend their lifespan. As with hard-shell gourds, there is a wide range of fruit shapes and sizes, but ornamental gourds have a much wider range of colors that includes yellow, gold, green, orange, and white.

Pumpkins are nutritional hogs and if you are growing squashes you need to find a sunny spot with rich, well-drained soil. Before planting your seedlings, incorporate a generous amount of compost or aged manure and add a few handfuls of organic fertilizer.

Pumpkins can be grown on the ground where their long vines will spread in all directions, but I prefer to grow them on a sturdy A-frame trellis. Vertical cultivation keeps her rampant growth under control, takes up less valuable garden space, and keeps the fruit clean. Also, it helps my snake gourds grow long and straight.

Pumpkins to grow:

Here are a few of my favorites – and the kids think they’re pretty cool too!

Spinning Top Gourds (top photo of squashes in a bowl) – Also known as Tennessee dancing squashes, these cute little fruits are produced on extremely vigorous and productive vines that can yield up to twenty per plant. The 2 to 3 inch long gourds are shaped like miniature bottles and have distinctive green and white stripes. Because they can be spun like a spinning top, they make great homemade toys! These are ornamental gourds, not hard shells, but I have found that the fruit can be dried successfully. The kids love to paint them as mini maracas.

(Top photo of gourds in a bowl) – Also known as Tennessee dancing gourds, these cute little fruits are produced on extremely vigorous and productive vines that can yield up to twenty per plant. The 2 to 3 inch long gourds are shaped like miniature bottles and have distinctive green and white stripes. Because they can be spun like a spinning top, they make great homemade toys! These are ornamental gourds, not hard shells, but I have found that the fruit can be dried successfully. The kids love to paint them as mini maracas. Speckled Swan Gourds – Speckled swan squash plants bear large fruit, up to 2 feet long, with a distinctive shape resembling its namesake, the swan. The underside of the fruit is the rounded body followed by a long elegant neck and topped by a small head. The skin of the fruit is deep green and heavily mottled with gold and white flecks. When grown on the ground, the necks curve, while twining vines result in long, straight necks.

– Speckled swan squash plants bear large fruit, up to 2 feet long, with a distinctive shape resembling its namesake, the swan. The underside of the fruit is the rounded body followed by a long elegant neck and topped by a small head. The skin of the fruit is deep green and heavily mottled with gold and white flecks. When grown on the ground, the necks curve, while twining vines result in long, straight necks. Snake Gourds – Because of their sheer size, snake gourds are the most popular pumpkins in our garden! If allowed to grow on the ground the fruit will curl up like a coiled snake, but if grown on a sturdy trellis or fence they will mature long and straight, sometimes reaching lengths of up to 4 1/2 feet! Each plant will give you 2 or 3 gourds of various sizes, but if you want super long fruit, only allow one per plant. Unlike most gourds, snake gourds are edible, but must be picked when they are immature and tender. We harvest them at 10 to 12 inches and cook them like zucchini.

Will you grow pumpkins in your garden?

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A few years ago my mother-in-law came by with a bag of seeds. They were intended for growing pumpkins.

I had no idea what I was doing but I stuck them in the ground and they were gone. That’s how easy they grow!

Over the years as I’ve honed my gardening skills I’ve invested in and learned to appreciate different types of squashes, but if you’re looking for a good beginner plant, you can’t go wrong with squashes.

Information about the pumpkin plant

Hardiness zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Soil: Loam, sand, clay, pH between 6.0 and 7.5, rich in organic matter, well drained

Sun Exposure: Full sun, at least 6 hours a day

Planting: Start indoors: 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost Harden off: 1 to 2 weeks before transplanting Transplant outdoors: When the plants have at least 4 leaves, after all danger of frost has passed

Spacing: 4 to 5 feet between plants and 6 to 10 feet between rows

Depth: ½ to 1 inch seed depth

Best Companions: Corn, Runner Beans, Datura, Sunflower

Worst Companion: Potato

Watering: Continuous water supply, water deeply once a week, at least 1 inch per week

Fertilization: Side fertilize with a balanced fertilizer or compost when the vines begin to flower

Common Problems: Anthracnose, Alternaria leaf blight, downy mildew, Cercospora leaf blight, gummy stem blight, powdery mildew, scab, Septoria blight, angular leaf blight, Verticillium wilt, bacterial leaf blight, aster yellow, squash mosaic, cucumber mosaic, watermelon mosaic, crown blight, squash vine borer , cucumber beetle

Harvest: Depending on the variety, after 100 to 180 planting days, when the stems and tendrils turn brown

How to grow pumpkins

Are you ready to learn how to grow pumpkins in your garden? They are easy!

pumpkin varieties

There are three main types of pumpkins. They each have their own purpose and can be equally useful.

1. Sponge Gourd (Luffa Aegyptiaca)

This type of gourd is used to make loofah sponges. They are closely related to cucumbers, which explains why they look the way they do.

Unlike cucumbers, the outside is hard-skinned and you have to peel off the outer layer to get to the fluffy inside that makes up the famous bath sponge.

This is the kind that got me hooked on growing pumpkins because I loved growing my own sponges.

2. Field Squash (Cucurbita Pepo)

Many people use pumpkins to decorate their homes in the fall. It’s a great way to save money on decorating just by growing your own.

If you want to grow pumpkins for ornamental purposes, choose this variety, which is closely related to both gourds and gourds. They come in many interesting colours, shapes and sizes.

3. Calabash (Lagenaria Siceraria)

This type of pumpkin is the one you might think of when you see homemade pumpkin bird feeders. They are larger and harder peeled than the other varieties.

This type of gourd is also what you would grow if you want to make a ladle or container. You can even eat this type of squash before it’s ripe.

Steps to growing pumpkins

Growing pumpkins is a simple process, but you need to make sure you plan your space because if you don’t, pumpkins will take over your garden.

The seeds my mother-in-law brought were planted haphazardly. So I had to fight randomly growing pumpkins for the rest of my time in this house because pumpkins suck when it comes to space.

Learn from my mistake and choose a place where they have plenty of room to run. Keep in mind that their vines can stretch up to 40 feet from the base of the plant.

Sun and soil requirements

Pumpkins are similar to pumpkins in that they prefer areas in the garden where full sunlight is available. They need between 100-180 frost-free days to mature.

Pumpkins are heavy feeders and need soil that is rich and well-drained. It should have plenty of organic matter, so make sure you add plenty of compost to the soil before planting the seeds or seedlings.

Seriously, don’t be afraid to add compost. These plants need plenty of nutrients to keep them thriving and happy.

Start pumpkin seeds inside

In most cases, you should sow your seeds directly into the ground, but you can start the seeds inside if you need to give them an early start. Pumpkins have delicate roots, so it’s possible to damage them when transplanting.

One way to avoid injuring their roots is to grow them in peat pots. With these pots, you can plant the whole pot and the material will decompose in the soil, allowing the roots to work through the peat as well.

Start seeds 4-6 weeks before you plan to set them outdoors. Keep them warm and moist for faster seed germination. It usually takes 7-14 days for pumpkin seeds to germinate.

Plant pumpkins in the garden

Pumpkins are warm-weather crops, so you’ll need to plant them in your garden after the threat of frost has passed. Air temperature should be above 60°F; Frost kills pumpkins, so wait two weeks past your average last frost date.

Sow the seeds edge down and not flat. Planting the seeds this way allows water to run down the sides and reduce the risk of rot.

Distance

Sow the seeds 1-2 inches deep in clusters of 4 seeds. Each group should be 5 feet apart. If you start with multiple rows of pumpkins, make sure the rows are about 8 feet apart.

Once the seeds sprout, thin the seedlings to 2 or 3 in a group. You need a few inches between each seedling to grow properly.

Once your squashes have sprouted, watch for leaves to develop. If this is the case, thin them down to one squash per spot by picking off the weaker plants.

Give them support

Although not a requirement, pumpkins do well when grown on a trellis or support system such as arches or teepees.

You can also save space by using a trellis. You can train the stems to grow over wires or any scaffolding you like. This not only gives gardeners in a small space the opportunity to grow pumpkins, but also protects your pumpkins from insects and keeps them off the ground.

Believe it or not, pumpkins are natural climbers, but you have to consider the weight. For heavy gourds, you need sturdy posts and thick wire. Smaller squashes do well with a wire cage, similar to a tomato cage.

Can you grow pumpkins in containers?

Just because you don’t have a lot of garden space doesn’t mean you can’t grow pumpkins. Pumpkins can be planted in containers, but remember you still need a strong trellis to keep the pumpkin vines from spreading everywhere.

You’ll also need a large container, usually half a barrel, to grow a few plants. Make sure the pot is at least 24 inches wide and 24 inches deep, but bigger is better.

Add a shape

Finally, you can shape your pumpkins if you want a specific look. You can put a broomstick on the ground and train the stems to grow around it.

This gives the pumpkin stems a fun, curved look. Also, you can tie the necks of larger pumpkins in knots for a fun look.

Caring for pumpkins in your garden

Many gardeners note that pumpkins can thrive on neglect. They are low maintenance plants, so if you have a black thumb, you can still grow these plants.

Why? Because they require little maintenance. If you sprinkle a thick layer of compost in the soil and give a little water before planting, the pumpkins should get what they need.

watering pumpkins

Pumpkins need a lot of water to grow, and this is especially true during dry and hot periods. Young plants need more water than established plants. It is best to water lightly several times in the beginning to help the roots grow and become established.

Give your plants 1 inch of water per week. Water the base of your plant and not the leaves, which can lead to the development of fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

Fertilize pumpkin plants

Hopefully you added plenty of compost or manure when you planted your seeds in the garden. Giving your plants too much supplemental fertilizer is not recommended. Excess fertilizer can harm their development.

Be sure to apply compost first, however, as pumpkins need the nutrients to produce. As long as you do this, you shouldn’t need to add more fertilizer.

If you want to use a fertilizer from time to time because your plants are not growing as expected, be careful not to use a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. This will cause the leaves to sprout but will stunt the growth of the fruit.

Cut back your plants

Cut back the vines when they are 10 feet long. Pruning back the vines encourages your plants to form side stems on which the female flowers will grow.

This practice may seem simple—it really is—but it can result in your plants growing more squashes than ever before.

Pumpkin problems and solutions

Pumpkins have few problems, which makes them so easy to grow. The few problems they have are easily dealt with.

A word of caution though. When you grow a plant that belongs to the gourd family (e.g. pumpkins, gourds, gourds, etc.), they need pollinators in order to be able to produce their fruits.

This means honey bees will be hanging around them a lot. You must take this into account when using insecticides.

cucumber beetle

You know you have this pest on your pumpkins when you see small holes and wilted yellow leaves. In addition, your fruit will become stunted and yellow. Keep an eye out for the yellow and black bugs hanging around your yard.

The best way to treat cucumber beetles is to cover your plants with row covers so the beetles have a hard time moving from plant to plant. Just make sure to hand pollinate your plants or remove the covers when the plant is in bloom so pollinators can get to it.

bacterial wilt

This disease is transmitted by cucumber beetles. When they eat an infected plant and then chew another plant, they transmit the disease from one plant to another.

You will know you have it because your plants will suddenly wilt. This is because the bacteria stop the flow of water in your plant.

There is no real way to stop bacterial wilt. You must destroy the infected plants. Your best option for deterring the disease is to prevent cucumber beetles.

Squash Bugs

A squash bug looks a lot like a stink bug. They make similar markings on your plant as cucumber beetles, which means you’ll see holes in your plants and the leaves will turn yellow and wilt. Look for the brown shield-shaped bugs.

You can apply diatomaceous earth to the base of your plant to rid your garden of squash bugs. Also, consider using a targeted insecticide if you have this problem with your squashes.

cutworms

Cutworms are a common problem for many plants. You will know you have them because they will feed on the stem and roots of your plants, cutting off the stem and letting it fall over. As you can imagine, they are a big problem when you have them.

You can apply diatomaceous earth to the base of the plant to get rid of roundworms. Insecticides also help.

You can also make a cardboard plant collar to prevent them from reaching the stem of your plant.

aphids

Aphids are a problem in most gardens. They are small beetles that are difficult to see with the naked eye.

However, you will know you have them when your plants start to look misshapen, you have sticky residue on your plants and they also start to wilt.

You can try to drive aphids out of your garden by dusting your plants with flour. Also consider using insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Best and worst companion plants

Some plants provide other plants with much-needed shade, protection from insects and disease. Other plants work well together because they don’t fight for nutrients in the soil.

That’s what we call good companion plants. The best companion plants for pumpkins are:

radish

catnip

broccoli

tansy

dill

marigolds

With that in mind, there are also plants that should not be planted next to each other because they either attract pests or fight for nutrients in the soil.

For pumpkins, you should avoid planting potatoes near them. Pumpkins and potatoes fight for nutrients.

How to harvest and store pumpkins

Harvesting pumpkins is even easier than growing them. An ornamental squash can be cut from the vine as soon as the stalk turns brown.

However, when cutting the squash, be sure to leave about two inches of the stem attached to the vine to ensure you have a good grip to hang from your squash.

Loofah gourds should be left on the vine until the stalk is dry and both ends of the gourd have turned brown.

When you’re ready to use a loofah, simply peel off the outer layer of skin with a spoon to get at the sponge inside the gourd.

Finally, the hard-shelled gourds can remain in the garden for three to six months to finish drying. Even if the vine turns brown and dies, there is still water to keep the pumpkin alive.

However, remember that if you cut the squash too early, it will rot. The longer you leave it on the vine, the better off you will be.

You’ll know your pumpkins are fine (even if mold develops) as long as the skin on the pumpkin doesn’t rot.

When the squash has turned brown and the seeds are rattling around inside, you can take it inside and tidy it up.

Store pumpkins properly

Pumpkins are great to grow because they store so well. They survive well in basements, attics, garages or barns.

For proper storage, choose a well-ventilated, dry location with temperatures between 55-65°F. You need to let the gourds dry for 1-6 months. It is necessary to dry them completely if you plan to use pumpkins for crafts or other projects.

Clean pumpkins

To clean your pumpkins, place them in a solution of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water. This will kill the mold that has formed on the squash as it dries.

Pumpkin projects and recipes

You can use pumpkins for all kinds of projects and uses around your home. Here are a few tutorials to get you started:

Make your own pumpkin soy candles

If you love fresh scents in your home, you know how expensive it can be to buy candles that smell good and are stylish.

But if you grow your own pumpkins and follow the steps to making pumpkin soy candles, you can save money while indulging in fragrant home decor.

Pumpkin Aviary

Many people grow pumpkins because they like to make inexpensive, functional, but also pretty birdhouses out of them. This tutorial will walk you through each step of the process of making a pumpkin birdhouse.

Bitter gourd roast

Eating pumpkin is not that common in the West, but it is quite common in other countries. You will be amazed by all the pumpkin recipes that you will find on the internet.

This bitter gourd roast recipe is a great introduction because when you’re trying something new, fried usually seems like the best introduction.

It’s season to decorate with bohemian pumpkins and odd-patterned pumpkins.

But unlike pumpkins, which can easily be turned into pies (or lattes), are these pumpkins straight from the pumpkin patch actually okay to eat? It seems odd that something so vegetable-like would be grown and harvested just to be used as decoration.

Part of the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes squash, watermelon, and cucumbers, squashes are not poisonous to humans, although squashes sold for decoration must be washed well before consumption. We turned to the experts to see if these fall decorations can actually be turned into tasty seasonal treats.

Short answer: Yes, ornamental gourds can be eaten

Amber Hunt / AP

“Most pumpkins are decorative, but I’m a curious cook and always wonder what to cook,” Ken Oringer, chef and co-owner of Toro Restaurant, said over the phone. “As long as they don’t break a knife in half, you can cook anything… It’s just a matter of figuring out the best way to cook it.”

As a pro, Oringer looks at the moisture content of the flesh and the toughness of the seeds to determine how to make a particular squash quickly. While some varieties are downright odd, he does have a few methods for the more common pumpkins.

For an Early Whitebush, which Oringer has described as “like a white spook,” he would roast this tender and softer (you’ll find it’s not as shiny as other squashes, which is a good thing) to get the soft flesh and using it in a miso banana pumpkin bread that’s great for breakfast.

Shutterstock

The Turkish turban, which is also not super hard, is “great in the soup”. At Toro, Oringer has sliced ​​it and fried it Japanese-style as a tempura, or Indian-style with chickpea flour and turmeric like pakora.

Another common variety, the bottle gourd, which Oringer says looks like “a green giant fat eggplant or a giant cucumber,” can be used in a Thai pumpkin curry made with coconut milk, red curry paste, ginger, lemongrass and fish sauce. Pumpkins are fun and you should play around with them!

Don’t neglect the seeds

Matthew Mead/AP

Much like pumpkins, pumpkins also have seeds that are “delicious,” Oringer said. He roasted some of the tougher seeds and simmered them like risotto with chicken broth or vegetable broth and tossed in onions, garlic, butter and Parmesan cheese, which sounds almost too perfect for a crisp October night.

Jamie Bisonette, Oringer’s restaurant partner, is also experimenting with pumpkin cuisine. For those decorative squashes that don’t seem edible, Bisonette recommends scooping them out (think zucchini or squash boat) and adding dry-grated pork shoulder with garlic and flavorings. “Slow cook the squash in the oven or grill over low heat so it breaks down and the insides fall in and add a lot of flavor,” he said. Also put a lid on it to trap all the steam while cooking.

Another secret use for pumpkins: seasoning

“I used to dry them in the sun too,” says Bisonette. “They dry out and get hard and then I put them in stews and treat them like a condiment.” Just take out the seeds before you dig in! Bisonette would poke holes in the squash as it dries in the sun, and is said to expect a similar flavor to pumpkin seed or pumpkin seed oil when using the tried-and-true squashes to flavor your winter stews.

Don’t throw away those decorative pumpkins – you’re in for a tasty winter thanks to Halloween decorations.

Pumpkins can be peeled and cooked in a variety of recipes such as: B. stuffed pumpkin, curries and pumpkin pie. Credit: Teleginatania/iStock/Getty Images

Eating seasonal produce is an inexpensive way to add more fruits and vegetables to your diet. It’s also a smart way to introduce yourself to new foods you may not have tried or even heard of, such as pumpkins.

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Many people like to decorate with pumpkins in late summer and early fall without realizing it, but certain pumpkins make delicious recipes. There are edible and inedible pumpkins – while you can eat certain pumpkins, many are too hard to eat and are used as decorations instead.

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Pumpkins have a hard skin, so they can be difficult to cook. If you’re considering adding pumpkins to your shopping list, here’s how to cook, prepare, and eat pumpkins.

What are pumpkins and what types are edible?

The pumpkin family consists of hundreds of species. Grown on vines, pumpkins tend to have unusual shapes, colors, and patterns. They vary in size, although some varieties can weigh up to hundreds of pounds. Some pumpkins are edible, some are not.

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The origin of gourds is a mystery, although there is evidence that gourds were used in early civilizations across Africa, Asia, North America, South America and Australia, according to the Chicago Botanic Garden.

“Surprisingly, pumpkins are considered a fruit,” Julia Chebotar, a chef in New York City, tells LIVESTRONG.com. “They are larger with hard skins and belong to a flowering plant species called Cucurbitaceae. Some gourds include watermelon, field gourd, squash, and gourd.”

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Pumpkins belong to the squash family of plants, and these fruits have hard skins when ripe, according to the Desert Botanical Garden. Many are used for inedible purposes as the rind is hard and bitter, although a selection can be peeled, boiled and enjoyed.

Some edible squashes include:

acorn squash

watermelon

field gourd

Butternut Squash

Bitter melon

calabash (bottle gourd)

Some inedible pumpkins include:

apple squash

Baby Bear Pumpkin

angel wings

Gooseneck Squash

Some squashes, like bottle gourd, are edible but have been linked to side effects such as vomiting, diarrhea, upper gastrointestinal bleeding and low blood pressure, according to a July 2015 case study in the World Journal of Emergency Medicine.

How to cook pumpkins

Cooking pumpkins can seem intimidating, but Chebotar breaks it down with this simple method.

Things you need Sharp knife

cutting board

baking sheet or plate

olive oil

Step 1: Bake the Whole Squash How you cook a squash depends on what kind you’re working with. When cooking pumpkins, you can start by softening the outer shell by baking the whole thing. Chebotar recommends adding a drizzle of olive oil to the bottom of the baking sheet or pan before placing the squash on top. Bake the squash at 425 degrees Fahrenheit for 25 to 50 minutes, depending on the type and size of the squash. Step 2: Remove the Outer Skin Once the skin has softened and the squash is cool enough to handle, use a sharp knife to remove the outer skin. Some people carefully peel the squash’s beautiful skin to use as a bowl or decoration. It is not intended for consumption and can be disposed of or composted. Step 3: Hollow Out the Inside Once the skin is removed, slice the squash in half to reveal the spongy center. Then scoop out the spongy center, which is usually filled with seeds. Step 4: Dice the Flesh Use a sharp knife to slice or slice the flesh into the desired shape and size. Step 5: Cook the Squash’s Flesh The flesh of certain squashes is the edible part and may need to be cooked longer after the skin is removed. Cook the pieces by boiling, steaming, frying, or baking them. They can also be incorporated into various recipes. Chebotar recommends baking the pieces at 425 F for 20 to 30 minutes or until lightly browned.

Pumpkin Recipe Ideas

Chebotar recommends the following pumpkin recipe ideas:

Pumpkin recipes are the perfect introduction to eating pumpkins. Pumpkin is low in fat and calories, yet full of flavor. It’s a versatile food that can be used in soups, stews, chilies, and more. Roasted Pumpkin, Maple Frosted Pumpkin, and Stuffed Pumpkin are tasty ways to eat pumpkins.

Pumpkins such as field gourd and calabash have very hard skins, but their edible fillings can be eaten in savory recipes similar to squash. Pumpkin’s sweet flavor makes it a popular choice for baked goods like pumpkin pie and other desserts. Pumpkin seeds also make for a nutrient-dense snack.

Bottle gourds are particularly popular in Indian dishes. It’s a staple in some curry and dal recipes. In Chinese cuisine, gourds are used in soups and stir-fries.

Thomas Springer

Fairfield County SWCD

The weekend after Thanksgiving is usually the time when people start to channel their inner Clark Griswold and bring out the twinkling lights, inflatable snowmen, and other Christmas decorations.

Many of these people were also ebullient at the Fall Break celebration. Pumpkins, corn chips, fancy pumpkins and other food decorations need to be removed from the porch and doorways to make way for glowing LEDs and reindeer.

Unlike the plastic, metal, and wire exhibits that light up the night sky in December, fruit and grain products are perishable and can’t be locked away until the following year. So what do you do with all that stuff when it’s time to transition? As we drove around the county this week, it became apparent that most people place their pumpkins and other organic matter directly in their bagged trash for weekly curbside pickup.

In a way I understand. Nobody wants a rotting pumpkin that stinks in the front yard; and corn stalks look rather unkempt after several weeks of rain and wind, but if you think your spouse and neighbors won’t mind, I urge you to consider offering these goods to the birds and animals that frequent your garden at home could name. I’m including backyard in this case because, let’s be honest, what I’m going to suggest isn’t the most aesthetically pleasing procedure out there.

To get straight to the point… Ask any farmer or gardener out there and they will tell you: Animals love to eat crops and produce. This send-to-the-landfill decor is packed with nutrients and flavors our native animals find irresistible. Deer, raccoons, squirrels and possums will readily devour the flesh of pumpkins and other mushy squashes. Birds, particularly the crows, chipmunks, and other rodents featured in last week’s column, will feast on the seeds of any fruit that hasn’t been turned into jack-o’-lanterns, and nearly every animal just mentioned would grind, pluck, or peel the kernels from any corn Corn on the cob left available.

But this is where things can get messy. By the end of the season I had no less than a dozen pumpkins of various sizes and shapes adorning my porch. From palm-sized mini pumpkins to several jumbos weighing almost fifty pounds, I’ve hauled them all near my pond and cracked open the skins of the pumpkins to reveal the delicious contents. Strong animals like deer or adult raccoons can penetrate the hardened outer shell of these fruits, but if too much time passes before they find the hiding place, the inside can ferment or rot, rendering them inedible. By breaking them open yourself, you allow creatures of all sizes and strengths access to the treat inside.

I’ve only used the heel or steel toe of my boots to accomplish this task, but I’ve seen many people get creative and take this opportunity to vent frustration or have the kids hit it with baseball bats, sticks, or Hulk style and smash them on the ground. Although it’s often a cathartic process, it leaves quite a considerable mess in its wake until the animals clean it up anyway (see backyard explanation above). Corn is a lot easier and a lot less messy to prepare. Simply peel off the shell and place the ears where you think the animals would find it easiest.

While I encourage everyone to think of the local wildlife rather than feeding the trash to the seagulls at the landfill, I realize that in an urban setting with neighbors on all sides, this may not be feasible. But if you’ve got the space and you’re not averse to a little pumpkin gut, give your decoration a second purpose and offer a few animals a nice winter treat.

Tommy Springer is a wildlife and education specialist with the Soil and Water Conservation District.

Growing Pumpkins

by Betty Kent, President

Texas Gourd Society

Full sun or at least 6 hours a day.

Fertile soil, should be prepared before planting.

Plenty of water, especially early in the growing season.

They need slightly acidic soil. pH from 6 to 6.5

Planning the pumpkin garden:

Large pumpkins take up a lot of space. Space mounds at least 4 feet apart and make rows 8 feet apart. Smaller gourds such as bottle gourds, dippers, bird feeders, and ornamental plants should be planted near a fence, trellis, or arbor. They need a place to hang.

Choose seeds for your desired strain from a breeder who specializes in “pure seeds.” The American Gourd Society (americangourdsociety.org) is a good source for pure seeds. Pumpkins easily pollinate each other and if you get “field seeds” you will get some of what you want and you might have a very interesting collection of different shapes of pumpkins as well.

Planting:

Prepare the seed by soaking it in water overnight or longer. Seeds can be cut off along the edges near the tip. These two steps speed up the germination time. Pumpkins are slow to germinate, taking anywhere from one to six weeks. The average number of seeds to germinate is about 60 to 80%. Plant seeds directly in the ground or they can also be placed in small pots and planted in the ground after danger of frost and when the plant has 4 leaves. Pumpkins do not like having their roots disturbed and will begin to grow slowly. Plant the seeds to a depth of about one and a half times the size of the seed. Although they start out slow, you can almost see the movement once the vine begins.

growing time:

Pumpkins need a long growing season in our hot, sunny climate. Ornamental plants need about 100 days from budding to maturity. Hard shells, lagenaria, take 120-140 days depending on the size and thickness of their shell. Loofahs take 140 days. Loofahs germinate more slowly and mature late. They particularly like hot weather. Water all gourds regularly during the early growing season. When the squashes are ripe, usually in September or October, stop watering altogether. The cessation of heavy watering in August is a trigger for the squashes to begin the drying and hardening process. (Again, losing 20-30% of the pumpkins is normal.)

Potential problems:

Pumpkins generally have few problems. However, there are a few pests to watch out for. Cucumber beetles, squash beetles, squash beetles, cutworms and aphids are possible pests. Pumpkins can also develop bacterial wilt. When the plant dies, take it out and treat the other vines. Use your organic remedies or the chemicals on the market.

PREVENTION is always the best alternative. Companion planting helps. Some plants that can be used with squashes: radishes, catnip, broccoli, tansy, dill, marigolds, and even the buffalo squash, which is native, bitter, and smells even worse than the lagenaria, hardshells.

Harvest:

Do not cut the squash until the stalks and tendrils are brown. Another way to tell they’re done is to wait until the squash starts to get light. This means that the pulp dries, its water has evaporated and it is fully ripe. If you take a pumpkin before it’s ready, it will shrivel and rot. Remember, you can never leave a squash on the vine too long, but you can cut it too soon. Leave at least an inch or two of the vine for aesthetic reasons, also it gives you a grip!!! As pumpkins dry, they form mold on the outer skin. That is normal. Pumpkins can be stored in any ventilated, dry place, e.g. B. in a barn, garage, attic, etc., or they can be left on the vine. The time it takes for them to dry completely depends on the size and thickness of the shell. (usually between one and six months) They should be brown and the seeds rattling to be dry enough to make.

Handcraft:

The first task is to wash off the mold that has formed on the outer skin. This comes off easier if the squash has been soaked in water for several hours to a day or two. Because gourds are buoyant, they don’t stay in the water. They need to be turned regularly or covered with a damp cloth to keep the mold moist.

Use a metal scrubbing brush and elbow grease to remove this mold and wash frequently. When all of the mold is gone, let the squash dry. This leaves the outside ready for painting, wood burning, or whatever art form you choose. Leather dye colors pumpkins beautifully. (A seal must be used with leather colour). And the pumpkin is also ready to be cut.

Removing the pulp and seeds can be a chore. (The odor is unpleasant and often toxic.) Wearing a mask when cutting and working with the pulp is recommended. Cut pumpkins with one of several saws, from an Xacto knife to a jigsaw. Use a spoon, scraper, or plastic ice cream scoop to remove the pulp. Try to get every bit of pulp off the inner surface as it will eventually peel off and ruin any finish. Sanding makes the inside really smooth.

When the pumpkin is clean inside and out and the way you want it, it’s ready for your imagination. Pumpkins can be treated much like wood in that they can be cut, painted, stained, chiseled, wood fired, glued and made into many objects. Your imagination is the only limiting factor. I often say, “The pumpkin tells me what to do”.

From a lecture of the Landscape Design III course, Series XIX, 20.-22. Sep 2004

Ornamental gourds Botanical name Lagenaria spp., Cucurbita spp. Common Name Ornamental Squash Plant Type Annual Mature Size Varies Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil pH Neutral (6.5 to 6.8) Flowering Time Spring Flower Color Yellow, white Hardiness Zones 3 to 10 (USDA) Native Range Africa, North America

How to plant ornamental gourds

Pumpkins are a warm-season crop and, like the winter squash, take the entire season to ripen. Plant squashes in a similar fashion to pumpkins and gourds: in mounds with two plants 4 to 5 feet apart, with about 6 to 7 feet between mound rows. Seeds planted in cold, wet soil will likely rot before they germinate. If spring is slow to come, you can get a head start by starting sowing seeds about four weeks before the last frost indoors. Use peat or paper pots to minimize transplant shock.

Different cultivars have different growth habits, but most squash fruits do best when the plants are lifted off the ground onto a trellis or support and the fruit is allowed to hang. They grow cleaner, straighter, and don’t get the discolored spots that appear when the fruit hits the ground.

As with other members of the cucurbit family, squashes can have pollination issues. If pollinators are not abundant in the area, you may need to hand pollinate by removing the male flowers and pollinating them onto the female flowers. The female flowers can be identified by the tiny immature fruits at the base of the flowers. It is normal for several male flowers to be produced before you spot a female flower. Hard-skinned gourds bloom in the evening and at night. Soft-skinned gourds bloom during the day.

ornamental gourd care

The Spruce / Evgeniya Vlasova

The Spruce / Evgeniya Vlasova

The Spruce / Evgeniya Vlasova

light

Plant your pumpkins in full sun for the most flowers and the healthiest fruit.

floor

Pumpkins need well-drained soil with a neutral pH of around 6.5 to 6.8. The vigorous vines feed heavily, and soil rich in organic matter improves yield.

water

Water the plants lightly immediately after planting, then every two to three days for two to three weeks. After that, water the base of the plant about 1 inch per week. Never water the leaves as this can damage the plant.

temperature and humidity

When starting seeds, start indoors between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Outdoors, ornamental gourds thrive best in temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

fertilizer

You can top-feed with compost or apply a balanced fertilizer when the vines begin to flower. The long pumpkin vines can mulch themselves, but be careful when weeding as pumpkins have shallow roots.

ornamental gourd varieties

Bird Feeder Pumpkin: Traditionally used to make hanging bird feeders; rounded bowl with a long neck

: Traditionally used to make hanging birdhouses; rounded bowl with long neck Bule: French heirloom (pronounced boo-lay) that looks like an apple with warts; dries well

: French heirloom (pronounced boo-lay) that looks like an apple with warts; dries well Pumpkin Mix: Seeds sold in mixes of various soft-skinned pumpkins; good for high yields

harvest

Pumpkins are ready to harvest when the stalks dry out and turn brown. Cut off the squashes with a few inches of stem intact. Discard any bruised or soiled pumpkins, as they will continue to decompose after you pick them. Do not use the stems as handles. They can easily break off, leaving an opening for disease or rot to enter.

Ornamental gourds can be cured or dried after harvest to harden and preserve them for use in decoration and crafts.

clipping

Prune the vines once they reach 10 feet to encourage the growth of female flowers that produce fruit on the side stems.

Common pests and diseases

Pumpkins are prone to the same problems as other members of the pumpkin family. Insects include aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and squash beetles. Hand picking and using floating row covers early in the season will help minimize pest problems.

Diseases such as angular leaf spot, bacterial wilt, mosaic virus and powdery mildew can be controlled with fungicides and crop rotation. It also helps remove plant debris in the fall and allows air to circulate between plants, especially in wet or humid weather.

Caroline Johnson

columnist

Raise your hand if you’ve walked into the garage this time of year, or wherever you’ve been keeping your stash of seeds from the previous year or years, and wondered, “Hmmmm, are these seeds any good?”

Will they sprout (start growing, giving off shoots or buds)? Am I going to waste my time and energy planting these seeds? my hand is up I have seeds (flowers and vegetables) left over from last year, collected seeds and seeds given to me by others. Seeds are an expense and some seeds have special meaning or memories associated with them because they come from special friends and/or loved ones. So what can you do?

There are a few tests that can be used to see if the seeds in question are germinating (the process by which an organism grows from a seed or similar structure) or viable (being able to take root or to to grow).

One method to check seed viability is the water test. Take the seeds and place them in a container of water. Leave the seeds on for 15 minutes. If the seeds sink, they are still viable; If they swim, discard them as they are unlikely to sprout.

Question: Can the seeds that are sinking still be sown?

Answer: Yes.

Sow the seeds directly into the ground when it’s the right time to plant, or dry the seeds thoroughly and plant them when it’s the right time.

Another more reliable method is the germination test.

Take at least 10 seeds from the seed packet in question and place them in a row on a slightly damp paper towel. Fold the towel over the seeds and place the towel in a clear plastic bag. Seal the bag and put it in a warm place (above 70 degrees). Although light is not an important factor for most seeds, a warm windowsill works well or the top of the refrigerator is a good location. (Note: You can also place the damp cloth on a plate and cover with cling film. This allows you to place more variety of seeds in individual rows on the damp cloth.

Next, use a permanent marker to write the date and type of seed on the outside of the bag. Look at the seed packet (if you have one) and note the germination times. Based on the average germination times listed on the seed packet, check the seeds after a few days to see if any have germinated.

If there is no package, check the seeds in seven to ten days. If you’re like me, I’ll check them out every day, probably more than once a day, just because. Once the seeds have started to germinate, remove the paper-wrapped seeds from the bag and count how many have germinated. If only half has germinated, most likely only half will germinate. Don’t hit the panic button just yet.

The solution is to simply spread the seeds more thickly than normal throughout your container or garden. According to the University of Illinois Extension Office, it may be better to buy new seeds if less than 70 percent germinate.

Question: Can the germinated seeds be planted?

Answer: Yes.

Plan to do the germination test just before planting so they can be seeded. Now for the parents and grandparents out there, here’s a fun Garden in a Glove project for kids to teach kids how to sprout.

Materials needed: clear plastic glove, permanent marker, five different types of seeds, cotton balls, pencil, zip ties or string. Have the child write their name and the project date on the glove with the permanent marker. Write the name of each seed variety on a gloved finger. Moisten the cotton balls and squeeze out the excess moisture. Place three to four seeds in each cotton ball and fold the ball over to secure the seed.

Place the cotton ball in the correspondingly marked gloved finger and use the pencil to press the ball into the fingertip. Once all of the seeded cotton balls have been placed, blow air into the glove and secure the glove at the top with a zip tie or string. Hang the glove in a window or somewhere warm and watch the result. The seeds should germinate in three to five days. Once they have sprouted, cut off the tips of the gloves to remove cotton balls and plant the seeded cotton balls in the soil.

Here are some sources for more information:

University of Illinois Extension https://extension.illinois.edu/home;

Colorado State University Extension https://extension.colstate.edu/home;

Oregon State University Extension https://extension.oregonstate.edu/home;

Sandusky County Extension The Ohio State University https://sandusky.osu.edu/home, 419-334-6340;

Ottawa County Ohio State University Extension https://extension.osu.edu/ottawa-countyoffice, 419-898-3631.

Look out for my August article on collecting and storing seeds for maximum shelf life. Have fun planting!

Carolyn Johnson is the Master Gardener at the OSU Extension Offices in Sandusky County and Ottawa Counties.

installation instructions

Learning Download: How to Grow Pumpkins

Pumpkins can often be used as a natural source of decoration during the fall months. Ornamental gourds come in all colors and sizes and can even be made into birdhouses. Pumpkins belong to the gourd family.

Before Planting: Choose a site with full sun and fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0. Row covers can and should be used to establish seedlings but removed when the first flowers form. Pumpkins can also be grown on sturdy trellises.

Sowing: Direct sowing in late spring when the soil temperature is at least 22 °C and the danger of frost has passed. Sow 2 seeds at each spacing interval (above), 1″ deep; dilute to 1 plant per spacing interval after seedlings are established. If starting seeds indoors, sow 2 seeds 1″ deep in 3″+ containers 3 weeks before transplanting. If you are growing a mixed variety, sort the seeds into groups by shape and size before sowing. Thin out with scissors to 1 plant per container/cell. Harden off the plants 4-7 days before transplanting. Plant out after danger of frost at (small 18-24″), (medium 24-36″) and (large 36-48″). Spacing rows at 6-12. Handle seedlings with care; Minimal root disturbance is best. Peat pot containers work best.

Watering: Pumpkins require little maintenance and only need to be watered once a week.

Fertilizer: Add fertilizer or compost to the soil before planting. Once the gourds are established, adding fertilizer may not be necessary, but for those gardeners who wish, fertilize with a water-soluble, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-5. Nitrogen-rich fertilizers encourage leaf growth.

Days to Ripe: Harvesting pumpkins can take anywhere from 90 to 130 days depending on the variety being grown, with hard-skinned varieties taking longer to mature.

Harvest: Harvest when color is fully developed and stems are dry, but before severe frosts. Cure at 80°F for 5-7 days out of direct sunlight. Wash and dry fruit.

Tips: Pumpkins prefer warm weather, and although they are used as decorations in the cooler months, they do not like frost. A late spring frost at planting can kill the seedlings if not covered.

One of my favorite summer vines is the pumpkin. It’s a super easy plant to grow from seed. The large leaves of the vine add interest to the garden and its fun fruits, harvested at the end of the growing season, can be used for decorating and crafts like this bird house.

If you haven’t planted pumpkins this year and want to give this project a try, look for it at your local farmer’s market or grocery store this fall.

MATERIALS:

pumpkins

steel wool

Fine sandpaper

Electric drill

circle drill

Normal drill

branch

Hot glue gun with glue sticks

waterproofness

String or thin wire to hang the birdhouse

DIRECTIONS:

Dry. If your pumpkins are already dry, skip to step 2. Pumpkins can be air dried in a well-ventilated area like your garage. It can take up to a month. You can tell they’re dry when you hear the seeds rattling inside.

Clean. If crusts or mold form during the drying process, simply wash the gourds in warm, soapy water with a steel wool sponge.

Sand. Once the squash has dried and you’ve washed it off, take a piece of fine sandpaper and lightly brush away any rough edges.

Create an entry. Now that you have a clean, smooth pumpkin to work with, it’s time to make an entry for the birds. Use a drill with a circular bit to carve out a hole (about 1½ inches) large enough for birds to come and go.

Drill. Next, switch drill bits and drill several holes on the bottom for drainage, as well as a few holes on the top of the gourd for hanging the birdhouse, and a hole under the “front door” for the perch.

sand again. If you find any sharp edges, sand them down at this point.

Clean house. When all this is done you can scrape out the inside with a stick or wooden spoon.

Add the perch. Insert a branch into the hole you drilled for the perch. I used a branch from a red twig dogwood. If it doesn’t fit properly, attach it with hot glue.

Seal. Spray the pumpkin with a water seal. This will help preserve the bird house for years to come.

Hanging. Thread twine or fine wire through the holes in the top of the gourd and hang the birdhouse in an area that you can easily see but is protected so the birds are safe from predators.

Good to know: growing and harvesting pumpkins

Direct sow in late spring or early summer after all danger of frost has passed.

Sow in full sun.

Pumpkins are ready to harvest when the stalk turns brown and the outer skin hardens.

Ripe pumpkins are not affected by frosts. Severe frost can discolour and damage the seeds.

Cutting the squash off the vine will also give you a few inches of stem.

Discard any that are immature, damaged, or rotten.

For centuries, seasonally minded, fall-loving people have welcomed fall with an abundance of decorative gourds on their dining tables, mantles, and porches. This phenomenon reached a new level of ubiquity almost a decade ago with this recurring joke article from McSweeny – laced with classic generational irony. And sure. Decorative pumpkins are fun, relatively harmless, and add a little bit of October charm to any room. But have you ever asked yourself (out loud or otherwise), “Hey, can you eat these suckers?” Oh… didn’t you? Surely there was a reason you clicked on this story — because you wanted to know whether or not these lumpy pumpkins could actually make dinner. Then you are exactly right here.

Thrillist TV History of The History of Tailgating

First of all, what is the difference between gourds, gourds, and squash? This isn’t as stupid a question as it might seem. All three are subcategories of the Cucurbitaceae family, meaning they are all fruits derived from herbaceous vine plants. Their genetics and terminology tend to overlap in confusing ways. The word “squash” doesn’t mean much botanically, as it’s really just a type of squash (such as butternut squash or acorn squash), while the word “squash” is meant to represent a different branch of the squash family. In general, squashes have a rigid exterior and don’t have an abundance of “meaty” insides that make them great food — unlike squash. Most squashes are grown for consumption, while most squashes are grown for purely decorative purposes. So really, when people define something as pumpkin, what they really mean is “inedible pumpkin”. But again, these definitions are more cumbersome than anything else. A full-grown squash can be thought of as a squash—but if you think about the miniature squashes, these are more like gourds because they are small, extremely difficult to open, and don’t contain much edible matter. It really depends on whether it’s going to be a good bite or not.

So can I eat pumpkins or not? Technically yes, but there are some inherent difficulties with eating pumpkins. Mainly, they’re hard to cook, hard to eat, and…well, most of the time you probably just don’t want to eat them. It’s a bit like eating fondant, but it’s mostly decorative and doesn’t taste good. If your pumpkins were good to eat, they would actually be pumpkins. Got it?

How do pumpkins taste anyway? The simple answer? Pretty similar to less palatable pumpkins – definitely more bitter. In some cases, they can have a pseudo-zucchini flavor (since zucchini are actually pumpkins, in case you didn’t know).

Which pumpkins are actually edible? The better question is: when should we eat pumpkins? The trick to eating pumpkins is to eat them before they’re fully “ripe.” Basically, the earlier the better. Younger squashes are softer, more malleable, and easier to cut. The longer you wait, the tougher and more bitter your squash will be. But it doesn’t matter which kind you choose, to be honest.

Let’s say I want to do this: how do I cook them? You will want to treat them like any other pumpkin. Peel the skin—the skin will often be very bitter, so you’ll probably want to get rid of as much of it as possible—then scoop out the flesh, which is the part you want to eat. From there it’s pretty much up to you. You will definitely want to cook them, either in boiling water for 20 minutes or in your oven at 350 degrees for about an hour. You can add them to stews, soups, curries, pastries, or just eat them raw (although honestly, that probably won’t taste good). And don’t forget the seeds. Just like you can sprinkle a little parmesan cheese or cinnamon sugar on a plate of pumpkin seeds, your pumpkin seeds have a chance to be an easy bite, ideal for fall snacking.

So you’re saying I can eat these mini pumpkins? Oh well. But eat them while they’re still white before they turn green and/or orange. But maybe you just decide to paint them, put them on your porch, and eat some butternut squash instead.

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Lagenaria siceraria birdhouse pumpkins make an ideal garden project for the whole family. The hard-shelled hanging fruits are not edible, but are great for craft projects such as B. Creating decorative homes for the birds. Learn how to plant and grow your own below. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy through one of our links, we may receive a commission.

The hard-skinned squash plant, Lagenaria siceraria, is a tropical squash in the Cucurbitaceae family, which also includes cucumbers, squashes, and melons.

She is suitable for growing in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 11, where she grows as an annual.

Also known as bottle gourd, gourd, or aviary gourd, it comes in a variety of shapes and sizes and has been valued for millennia for its ripe fruit with a hard outer “exocarp” that dries to a waterproof, wood-like consistency after it’s been harvested.

In this article you will find everything you need to know to start cultivating hard-shelled birdhouse gourds in your garden.

Here is the lineup:

Let’s start.

cultivation and history

L. siceraria has a long growing season of up to 180 days.

Its vines can reach 16 feet or more in length, growing on the ground, along fences, over arbors and pergolas, or on tipis and trellises.

The foliage consists of fuzzy green leaves and white flowers. There are both male and female flowers, and only the females bear fruit.

Bottle gourds can be oblong or round in shape. Some may twist like a swan neck and others may double bulge like a weightlifter’s bar.

The bottle gourd holds pride of place in history as one of our earliest domesticated crops.

Dating back 10,000 years to prehistoric days in America and 7,000 years in Asia, the species is believed to be native to Africa.

Two subspecies have been identified, the African L. siceraria var. siceraria and the Asian L. siceraria var. Asia.

Lagenaria is the Latin word for bottle or flask. Ripe, hard-shelled gourds have been used as food containers, water jugs, floats for fishing nets, and even body armor for thousands of years.

Early Native Americans used them as musical instruments in religious ceremonies and as bird feeders to attract insectivorous purple swallows.

And while the delicate unripe fruits, shoots, leaves, and seeds of L. siceraria are edible, it’s important to understand that this plant contains a toxic chemical compound called the tetracyclic triterpenoid cucurbitacin, which is known to cause severe and potentially fatal GI ailments to cause.

People who consume it say not to eat any part of it or drink the extracted juice if it tastes “bitter,” but at least one documented hospitalization for gastrointestinal bleeding suggests this is dangerous play.

In India, where it is known as Dudhi or Lauki, L. siceraria has been used for thousands of years in Ayurvedic medicine’s panchakarma cleansing, which makes the most of the toxin’s laxative properties.

L. siceraria is grown as a vegetable throughout Southeast Asia and in Japan, where it is still used by traditional physicians to treat conditions from asthma to inflammation and to support heart health and immune function.

In today’s American gardens, it is a unique ornamental with vigorously flowering vines and fruit forming sturdy, decorative birdhouses.

propagation

To grow your own plants, start with fresh seeds that are packaged for the current growing season and come from a reputable supplier.

Because of the long days to maturity, you should start your seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last average spring frost date for your area.

Here’s how:

Soak the seeds in lukewarm tap water overnight.

Fill biodegradable peat pots or egg carton cells with potting soil. They can be easily transplanted into the garden with minimal root disturbance.

In each pot/cell, make an indentation about 1 inch deep in the potting medium.

Place a seed, pointed side down, in each well and cover with potting soil. Standing up the seed minimizes its horizontal surface area and prevents rot when watering.

Line a baking sheet or other large skillet or tray with a half-inch thick stack of newspaper or paper towels.

Place the pots/cells on the newspaper-lined pan.

Place the tray in an area that receives bright, indirect sunlight.

Keep the potting medium moist but not soggy. Never let it dry out completely.

Germination takes about two weeks, but you may not see any sprouts for another two weeks.

When the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, acclimate them outdoors for a few hours each day for about a week, then transplant them into garden soil at the same depth as in their pots/cells.

how do i breed

Whether you start the seeds indoors and plant them out, or sow them directly in the garden, you should do so after the threat of spring frost has passed.

Choose a full sun location. If you live in hot summer afternoons, a bit of afternoon shade is beneficial.

Soil should be organically rich and well-drained, with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.

To determine the acidity of your soil, you can do a soil test. Too sweet (alkaline) soil can easily be improved by adding compost.

Work the soil to a crumbly consistency, to a depth of six to eight inches, in a square foot of soil.

Alter it as needed according to the soil test results, or just toss in a few hefty handfuls of compost.

Make a mound of the crumbly earth about six inches high and a foot wide. Prepare as many mounds as you like, leaving five to eight feet (1.5 to 2.4 m) between mounds.

Elevating the seeds will help promote good drainage and discourage rot.

Place four seeds in each mound at a depth of 2.5 cm. Point them down, leaving a three inch gap between them.

As described for indoor planting, they’re less likely to rot in this position than if you lay them flat.

Cover the seeds and press the soil down firmly.

Water the soil and keep it evenly moist but not soggy until the plants are well established.

Fertilizer isn’t necessary, but if you plan to use it, choose one that’s well balanced and slow-release. Avoid produce with an excess of nitrogen, or you may grow lots of leaves and few fruits.

If you have seedlings with two sets of true leaves, reduce the number of plants per hill to two. If you end up with two extremely vigorous vines, you can always thin them out into one later if you wish.

The same goes for transplants – plant two in each mound to give the vines plenty of room to spread out as they grow.

I know it’s difficult to thin out seedlings, but if you let them all mature, the plants are very close together, which restricts airflow, increases humidity, and makes them more susceptible to insect infestations and disease.

As the vines get longer, you can decide whether to grow them on the ground or over a structure. With soft ties, like this product from Burpee, you can train them to grow on the structure of your choice to create a mottled shade hideout that adds vertical landscape interest. Burpee Soft Twist Ties Each package contains one 16-foot continuous roll that can be cut to size.

Some time on the ground is beneficial as the vines tend to become rooted in the soil as they get longer, giving the whole plant extra support.

However, this attempt to give the plants a stronger base may result in some fruit emerging at ground level.

Pumpkins that rest on the ground are prone to flattening and rotting.

To protect them, follow the recommendation in Rodale’s Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening and apply several inches of mulch (I like clean straw) under developing fruit.

The professionals at the Rodale Institute also recommend lateral fertilization with compost in the middle of summer, as plants are heavy feeders.

Side-dressing is a technique where you incorporate nutrients into the soil without disturbing the roots, in a radius that extends outward from the stem to the “drip line” or edge of the foliage.

This can be difficult with grapevines, so just add some compost near – but not on – the plant, around midsummer.

Around this time, you may notice that your gourds are getting bulky. While the stems are fairly sturdy, some people like to provide extra support with a soft sling.

Well, let’s recap.

growing tips

For best results, remember the following when planting hard-shelled gourds:

Start seeds indoors to get a jump on the long growing season.

to get a jump on the long growing season. Use peat pots or egg carton cells that can be sown directly to avoid disturbing seedling roots.

Build up the organic-rich garden soil to optimize drainage.

Lay the seeds down and not flat to prevent them from rotting.

Add compost to these heavy feeders mid-season, but avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers.

Support vines and cushions for fruit in the form of structures, mulch and slings.

cut and care

When the main vine reaches about 10 feet, you can prune it back a few inches with clean scissors. This encourages lateral branching. The female flowers are most likely to form and bear fruit on these side branches.

Additional pruning work involves cutting off broken leaves and stems. Such damaged plant tissue is vulnerable to pests and diseases. If you see signs of infestation or infection such as B. discolored or disfigured leaves, also cut them off and throw them in the garbage.

Prevent developing gourds from flattening out on the ground or rotting by placing them on a bed of clean straw.

Don’t be surprised if you visit the garden on a summer afternoon and find your leaves completely withered.

That is normal! They really perk up when the heat subsides later in the evening.

Avoid the temptation to water at midday. To maintain even moisture, it is best to water in the morning.

Established plants should do well with an inch of water per week in the absence of rain. During a very dry period, you may need to be a little more generous.

Watering in the cool of the evening is also tempting, but don’t do it. The presence of excess moisture overnight encourages mold growth.

And finally, remember to keep the garden weed free. Not only do weeds compete for water, they also inhibit airflow and provide a breeding ground for disease-carrying pests.

Where to buy

Dealing with pests and diseases

The best way to prevent pests and diseases is through good gardening practices.

Buy quality seeds, space plants for optimal air circulation, keep the garden free of weeds and debris, avoid overwatering, and sanitize tools like secateurs, shovels, and gardening shoes before and after use.

But even with our best efforts, problems can arise.

Some pests that are common to pumpkin varieties such as squashes are:

Read our article on identifying and controlling zucchini pests for detailed information on controlling many pests that L. siceraria also have in common.

In addition, pests can be “disease carriers” or carriers, so outbreaks need to be controlled.

Some diseases to watch out for are:

Alternaria leaf blight

anthracnose

bacterial wilt

blossom end rot

Cercospora leaf spot disease

cucumber mosaic virus

Wrong mildew

Fusarium crown rot

Gummy stem rot

powdery mildew

Septoria leaf spot disease

Verticillium wilt

Watermelon Mosaic Virus

Zucchini Yellow Mosaic Virus

Learn about many common pumpkin diseases that can also affect L. siceraria in our article on identifying and controlling common zucchini diseases.

Reputable seed suppliers strive to offer pumpkin seeds with superior disease resistance.

And while these lists look long and intimidating, infestations and infections can be minimal and do little harm to your developing pumpkins.

Don’t panic if you have problems. For example, I’ve grown beautiful pumpkins on plants whose leaves have been thoroughly damaged by powdery mildew.

Check out our complete guide to growing pumpkins for more information.

And make sure that when growing squash of any kind, you remember to rotate locations annually to avoid pests and diseases that can overwinter in the soil.

Are you still there?

I know it’s a lot to process, but the results are worth it!

Now that we’ve talked about growing and troubleshooting pests and diseases, it’s time to reap the rewards of our labors.

harvesting and drying

As autumn approaches, the days get shorter and the nights cooler. Continue to provide an inch of water a week when it’s not raining and watch out for the first frost.

When the leaves are gone, it’s almost harvest time.

When the vines wither, turn brown and stiff, clean and use your favorite secateurs to trim the vines above each fruit.

Be sure to leave a generous length of stem attached. It will continue to nourish the squash to optimal maturity and is also handy for hanging to dry out.

Bottle gourds will tolerate a few light frosts but not a hard one, so don’t wait too long to pick them.

Once you have your harvest in, remove all plant debris from the garden to avoid hibernating over pests. Dispose of infested and diseased waste in the trash, not on the compost heap.

Clean all gardening tools and shoes before putting them away and make a note in your gardening journal to suggest a new location for next year’s pumpkin plants.

Now it’s time to dry.

As the moisture evaporates, hard-shelled squashes turn from green to brown and are prone to mold growth.

To avoid exposing your family to spores, find a well-ventilated, dry place outside of the home for storage.

Good places are garages and sheds where the fruit can be hung by heavy twine or rope from nails or hooks, or stand on wire racks like the ones you use to cool cookies.

The smallest varieties may only need a few weeks to fully dry, while the largest will take close to a year.

The drying time continues until you get a light, hard gourd that sounds hollow when tapped. You might even hear the seeds jingling inside.

Check out our article on how to prepare, cut and paint your own bottle gourd bird feeders. (soon!)

Best use

L. siceraria produces sprawling vines, large leaves, fragrant white flowers, and heavy fruit. With room to roam and structural support, it makes a decorative and novel addition to the garden.

And drying and decorating for the birds is fun for the whole family.

If you’re wondering if you can grow other crops with L. siceraria, the answer is yes.

Some people enjoy growing legumes like beans and peas because they are known as “nitrogen-fixing” plants that help make this essential nutrient readily available to neighboring plants.

Corn is another excellent companion as it has similar cultural requirements.

Longtime growers say you shouldn’t grow squash near potatoes. It can affect their taste, pest tolerance, and growth rate.