Harley Davidson 5 Speed Transmission Problems? The 25 Correct Answer

Familiarize yourself with the diagram at the top of the shifter You won’t have the luxury of looking at the shifter while driving, so make note of the diagram at the top of the shifter that shows the positions of the different gears. Once you’ve memorized the diagram, practice looking out the windscreen and try shifting through the gears. Reverse may be in a different location depending on the car you drive. More on the back later. With the engine running, be sure to depress the clutch when changing gears. To save fuel, practice shifting gears with the engine off.

How to change gears. To shift, release the accelerator pedal, depress the clutch, change gears, gently clutch and press the accelerator pedal again. Neutral The shifter is spring loaded and always springs back to center neutral just below 3rd gear and above 4th gear (remember this for later). Neutral is not in any gear. In neutral, the transmission can be freely moved left and right. You wouldn’t do that if it was going on. You should always start the car in neutral to make sure the car doesn’t jump forward.

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It’s one thing to ride a motorcycle and have a good time, but at some point you have to park your bike. You can do this in a number of ways.

The first parking method

The first way to park is to back into the space with the rear tire toward the curb. You have to be aware of the surface you are on, it can be gravel, concrete, dirt or grass. Whatever type of surface you’re on, make sure you have a firm grip on your bike when backing into your chosen spot. One reason you might want to back your bike up in a parking lot is so that when you’re ready to start riding, you have unhindered access. It’s also safer than reversing out of a parking space into flowing traffic. Leave enough space on both sides of your bike so that when you place the bike upright, you can safely lean the bike on the kickstand and safely ride away without contacting those closest to you. [i.e. H. Another bike, car, or other structure.] Another point to keep in mind is if you have a center stand for your bike, you want to make sure you have enough space around you to properly position the bike when parking placed on the main stand.

The second parking method

Another method is to pull the bike in, front tire first. A good example of this is when you are at the mall. Something to keep in mind is that a motorcycle is a small vehicle and if you drive all the way into that spot a car may come and pull into the spot thinking the spot is empty and wham! They hit your bike and may knock it over, scratch it, or dent and even damage it. The way to safe parking is not to pull all the way into the parking spot. Try to match the back of your bike to the back of all the other cars in that row. This is how you are visible to cars.

Rarely do we park parallel to the curb like a car. This only happens when the signage says this is the only way to park. Otherwise it’s either front tire or rear tire to curb or point.

More helpful tips

Another factor to consider when parking is the ground level you are on. The ground can be uphill or downhill… all of these factors play a role. Here’s the easiest tip for you: when you park the bike you’ll have to leave it at some point, so make sure that whichever way you park you can throttle or coast out of place. There’s nothing more embarrassing than asking someone to come and hustle you. If it happens to you once, it will never happen again.

Now let’s talk about gears when parking on a hill. You want to leave your motorcycle in 1st gear. On hills, stopping it from rolling back is a must. Do we have a parking brake like a car? If you drive a shift car, do you park it in neutral? When you park your bike, it MUST be in 1st gear at all times, even if the ground is level. That’s to make sure it never moves while you’re not on it. There is no exception to this rule. I know your friends tell you to let it idle, but the only time your bike should ever see a neutral is when you start it. Not at the stop sign, not in a traffic jam, not when parking, only when starting. Anything else could possibly get you into trouble somehow.

So you see, there are a few ways to store your bike. Remember to always check road surfaces for road hazards and slopes. This will always save you from an embarrassing moment when you have to leave. This is just a small topic that we cover in the security classes. Come to a class and learn something new! See you on the road and drive safe!

Harley-Davidson will introduce the Twin Cam 96, an all-new big-twin engine, when it introduces its 2007 line of motorcycles. The Twin Cam 96 will power all models in the Harley-Davidson Dyna, Softail and Touring families, each also featuring the 6-speed Cruise Drive transmission. New bikes for 2007 include two VRSC models, the all-new FXSTC Softail Custom and a limited-edition model celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Sportster’s introduction.

“The V-Twin engine has always been the heart of a Harley-Davidson motorcycle,” said Bill Davidson, Harley-Davidson Director of Motorcycle Product Development. “It’s not only essential to the bike’s performance, but also to its styling, sound and feel. The new Twin Cam 96 and 6-speed Cruise Drive transmission offer improved performance while maintaining the traditional aesthetics of the Harley-Davidson Big Twin.”

It’s the timeless blend of form and function that defines the character of every Harley-Davidson model. It’s a philosophy that dictates that the machine should touch the soul not only through its physical performance but also through its presence, an expression of the passion that has guided Harley-Davidson for more than a century.

Highlights of the 2007 Harley-Davidson line include:

The new Twin Cam 96 engine, paired with the 6-speed Cruise Drive transmission, delivers up to 17 percent more torque (varies by model family) than the Twin Cam 88 it replaces and includes a number of design changes to improve performance and reliability. It is only offered with Electronic Sequential Fuel Injection (ESPFI). The 6-speed Cruise Drive transmission features quieter helical gears in ratios optimized for the Twin Cam 96’s torque curve. A sixth gear reduces engine speed by 11 percent at highway speeds. New mufflers have been tuned to improve the lower sound frequencies for a more confident exhaust note.

The VRSC family of liquid-cooled power cruisers includes two new models. The VRSCDX Night Rod Special features menacing blacked-out styling. The limited edition VRSCX features the power of a large-displacement Revolution V-Twin engine that burns the pavement, with drag bike style and graphics that pay tribute to NHRA Champion Screamin’ Eagle / Vance & Hines Pro Stock Motorcycle racing team pay.

The new FXSTC Softail Custom takes styling cues from the classic chopper with a 200mm rear tire, king and queen seat and bobtail rear fender.

The limited edition 50th Anniversary Sportster features a special badge, traditional peanut fuel tank and other classic components to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Sportster’s introduction in 1957.

The FLSTF Fat Boy has been refreshed and supercharged for 2007, with new wheels and design details, a new 200mm rear tire and the power of the Twin Cam 96/B engine and 6 speed Cruise Drive transmission.

The FXDC Dyna Super Glide Custom has been redesigned to enhance its aesthetics with additional chrome and custom features including a new ribbed dual seat, Fat Bob fuel tank and mini pullback handlebars.

Harley-Davidson Custom Vehicle Operations (CVO) will offer four exciting models for 2007: the Screamin’ Eagle Road King, Screamin’ Eagle Ultra Classic Electra Glide, Screamin’ Eagle Softail Springer and Screamin’ Eagle Dyna. Each is powered by a new high-performance Twin Cam 110 powertrain and features new accessories and fabulous new paint jobs.

The new Harley-Davidson Smart Security System with new hands-free fob and auto arm/disarm is a factory-installed option on all Harley-Davidson models.

Harley-Davidson will offer 17 new color combinations for 2007.

About the author

The 1999 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam V-Twin engine marked a major leap forward for the engine company in terms of refinement and performance. Unlike the 1980’s Evolution engine or the Shovelhead or the Panhead, the Twin Cam shared almost no parts or specifications with the original 1930’s Harley OHV engine, the Knucklehead. It is said that of the hundreds of parts in each engine, only 18 part numbers were shared between the Twin Cam and the engine they replaced. The Haynes Twin Cam Manual covers all 1999-2010 models.

To quiet things down (to meet state noise regulations) and improve pushrod geometry, the single, central, gear-driven cam was replaced with two cams, one at the bottom of each cylinder, and driven by chains. This last ‘feature’ proved to be one of the Twin Cam engine’s major failings over the years, with the chain tensioner not being up to the task and having to be inspected every 15,000 miles or replaced with an improved tensioner system or gear drive cam.

The other major improvement in refinement was a new, more solid mounting of the gearbox to the rear of the engine cases. Harley-Davidson’s Big Twin was still not a unitary design with crankshaft and transmission parts (like the Sportster), but the primary drive case and cover were no longer structural and now only hold the oil and locate the tensioner. This new auto-tensioner is another of the few weaknesses in Twin Cam design and needs to be checked regularly or updated as well. This new transmission mounting system and the Softail’s solid engine mounts delayed the release of Twin Cam-powered Softail models until the 2000 model year.

The Harley-Davidson Twin Cam are motorcycle engines manufactured by Harley-Davidson from 1998 to 2017. Although these engines differed significantly from the Evolution engine, which in turn was derived from the series of overhead valve, single cam engines first introduced in 1936, they shared a number of characteristics with almost all earlier Harley-Davidson engines . Both engines have two cylinders in a 45° V-twin configuration, are air-cooled (some Touring models use liquid cooling for the heads)[1] and pushrod-activated valves. The crankshafts have a single pin with a knife and fork arrangement for the connecting rods. These are sandwiched between a pair of flywheels.

The Twin Cam was Harley-Davidson’s second engine to use two cams to drive the valve train, the first being the JDH racing model introduced in 1928.

The Twin Cam 88 was released in September 1998 for the 1999 model year.[4] The Twin Cam 96 was released for the 2007 model year.[5]

88B and 96B engines[ edit ]

The Twin Cam was not used in the Softail model family until the year 2000. This was due to the chassis design and the vibration transmission to the Softail frame through the direct (hard) mounting of the engine. Dyna models are “rubber mounted” and absorb most of the vibration transmission to the frame and rider. Another reason was that on a Twin Cam, the engine and transmission are bolted directly together (but are still separate entities), while on a Softail, the chassis seatpost gets in the way of a Twin Cam transmission case. When the company determined that a rubber-mounted Softail would spoil the line’s visual styling, Harley solved the problem by designing an engine variant called the Twin Cam 88B. It is basically the same engine as the original (now retrospectively dubbed the “Twin Cam 88A” by enthusiasts), but with a modified engine block design incorporating twin chain-driven balance shafts. The Twin Cam 96B engine was released at the same time as the Twin Cam 96A model for the 2007 model year and was featured on all Softail models until it was replaced by the 103ci version.

However, it is possible to fit a regular Twin Cam engine to a pre-2000 Softail (or any chassis that accepts an Evolution engine) using third-party adapters.[7]

Differences to predecessor (Evolution Engine) [ edit ]

The engine design differed significantly from its “Evo” predecessor, although it shared some design cues with the Sportster line. The 88 is the displacement in cubic inches of the standard engine. Bore is 95 mm (3.75 in) and stroke is 102 mm (4.00 in), meaning displacement is 1,450 cc (88 cu in). The Twin Cam 95 was introduced with the Screamin’ Eagle models (later known as the CVO) and ran until the 88 was discontinued after 2006. The Twin Cam 95 displaces 94.6 cu in (1,550 cc). The Twin Cam 96 displaces 96.7 cu in (1,584 cc). The company released 103 cu in (1,690 cc) for 2010 Electra Glide Ultra Limited models and later for 2012 Softail models and 110 cu in (1,801 cc) for Screamin’ Eagle/CVO models.

Modify Evo Twin Cam Displacement 82 cu in (1,340 cc) 88 cu in (1,450 cc), 95 cu in (1,550 cc), 96 cu in (1,584 cc), 103 cu in (1,690 cc), 110 cu in. inches (1,801 cc). External oil pump. Connected by a series of gears. Internal double gerotor. Directly connected to the right pinion shaft. This pump is more efficient, maintains higher pressure and volume. Cam Simple, with 4 cams. One per cylinder, each with 2 cams. This allows the pushrods to better align with the rocker arms. Cam drive gears silent chain. This change was reported as necessary to meet EPA noise requirements. Many users installed aftermarket gear-driven replacement parts to increase control accuracy[10] and avoid cam chain tensioner wear. Transmission mounting offset from the engine Transmission housing is mounted directly on the engine. Oil tank usually surrounds the battery box under the seat. Under and behind the transmission assembly (except Softails which are the same as the Evo) Combustion chamber “D” shape “Bathtub” shape. Enables more efficient combustion and has higher compression. Spark ignition Wasted spark (both spark plugs fire at the same time). The ignition system uses a single coil. Plugs are 14mm (0.55 inch). No wasted spark. The ignition system uses dual coils. Plugs are 12mm (0.47 inch). Cooling Air-cooled Also air-cooled. Increased cooling fin surfaces and an oil jet that sprays the crown of the piston provide additional cooling capacity.

Development [edit]

Development of the Twin Cam began in the early 1990s as Harley attempted to solve problems that plagued the previous Evolution engine, particularly structural weaknesses in the crankcase, oil circulation and leaks. While aftermarket companies like S&S Cycle previously responded with stronger crankcase components for high-performance evolutions, Harley opted for an all-new design while keeping the engine fundamentally and aesthetically similar to the traditional 45-degree air-cooled overhead valve V-twin.[4 ]

The Twin Cam shared only 18 parts with its predecessor, as almost all of the components were unique to the engine. As the name suggests, the engine uses two chain-driven cams to comply with EPA noise regulations. The powertrain was strengthened through a mounting scheme called the “Revised Rear Interface” which allowed the gearbox to be mounted directly to the rear of the engine, with the prime mover and clutch covers playing less of a structural role. This was also partly why Softails didn’t initially get Twin Cam for the 1999 model year.

Early prototype Twin Cam engines had significant problems with the oil system. These problems delayed the engine’s planned release for the 1997 model year. When the engines were running, oil leaked from all sealed connections as well as from the breather.[11] Harley sought the help of Paul Troxler, a young engineer from the Southwest Research Institute, and eventually the problem was traced to a design that bled the camcase into the crankcase and used a single scavenge pump. Due to airflow through openings in the crankcase wall, the camcase did not drain properly. After much testing, the solution was to seal the camshaft housing from the crankcase and use a dual scavenging system integrated into the engine, rather than an outboard pump as used on older Big Twins since the original Knucklehead. However, the oil was still not properly scavenged from the crankcase due to an acoustic phenomenon due to the caliber of the scavenge inlet. Limiting the diameter of the inlet, a counterintuitive solution, solved this problem.[12]

Which choice is better for Harley-Davidson transmissions?

A particularly nice property of AMSOIL 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil is that it can be used in the engine, transmission and primary chain case of Harley-Davidson motorcycles. However, some drivers wonder if a gear oil like AMSOIL Severe Gear Synthetic 75W-110 or 75W-140 is a better choice. Let’s explore this question.

For Evolution 1340 and all Twin Cam engines, AMSOIL’s first recommendation for the engine, transmission and primary chaincase is AMSOIL 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil. For the gearing of these models, they offer a secondary recommendation of AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-110 and a third option, Severe Gear 75W-140. Some drivers claim to experience quieter operation with these options, but are there any real benefits?

First, let’s note that AMSOIL 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil is enriched with anti-wear additives to ensure maximum gear wear control. It is also formulated to be shear resistant for durability. The Severe Gear Lubes work well but do not offer improved wear control over the 20w-50 motorcycle oil.

Let us point out that AMSOIL Motorcycle 20W-50 and Severe Gear 75W-110 are identical in terms of thickness at operating temperature. Gear oils use a different viscosity scale on the label to avoid confusion between gear oils and motor oils. Here the kinematic viscosity of each product at 100 degrees Celsius is given in centistokes (cST).

20W-50 Motorcycle – 20.4 cST

75W-110 Severe Gear – 20.3 cST

75W-140 Severe Gear – 27.5cST

So will thicker oil in Harley transmissions offer better protection?

No, that’s not the case. Severe Gear 75W-140 may offer quieter operation simply because of the thicker viscosity. This does not necessarily mean that better wear control is the result. In fact, a thicker oil could potentially result in slightly higher operating temperatures.

bottom line

AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic Motorbike Oil passes the FZG gearbox test with a perfect result of “zero” wear and is in turn enriched with anti-wear additives to provide the ultimate wear protection. It has also been formulated to limit friction for optimal shifting performance. If you want to use one of Severe Gear’s products, that’s no problem. Bottom line, there is no significant advantage over the 20W-50. The convenience of using the 20W-50 on all three holes trumps any perceived benefit in our opinion.

This guide will show you how to change the oil in the transmission of the Harley-Davidson Sportster Evolution engine.

The Evolution Sportsters have wet clutch and prime movers. It is recommended to change the oil after 1,000 miles and every 10,000 miles thereafter.

The manufacturer recommends using 20w50 oil. Make sure the oil you use is wet clutch approved. Many automotive oils are not, so we recommend purchasing an oil specifically formulated for use in motorcycle transmissions. 75w90 gear oil is often replaced with 20w50 motor oil in this application.

A reader asks: “I want to convert my Harley-Davidson Street Glide Special to AMSOIL. Of course the motor will take your synthetic 20W-50, but I’m curious as to what to use in the primary and transmission. There are many different combinations on the internet. Some use gear oil in the gearbox and chain case. Some even use ATF in the chain case and claim they get great results. What is the best combination for my bike?”

Answer: For any Harley Twin Cam engine, we strongly recommend using AMSOIL Synthetic 20W-50 in “all three holes” (as they put it) for two main reasons.

Update: AMSOIL now offers specific oil for Harley Davidson primary chaincases and transmissions. These are called AMSOIL V-Twin Primary Oil and AMSOIL V-Twin Transmission Oil. Should one use these special liquids? Or is AMSOIL V-Twin 20W-50 acceptable for primary and transmission use? There really is no wrong answer. AMSOIL V-Twin 20W-50 is designed for engine, primary and transmission use. It’s certainly a very competent and convenient choice for all three components. For those who prefer a specialty fluid, the V-Twin Primary and V-Twin Transmission Fluids are sure to offer excellent performance and protection.

Related: See all our articles on Harley-Davidson motorcycles and synthetic oil

AMSOIL V-Twin 20W-50 Works (and actually works very well)

AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil has been specially developed to withstand the rigors of engine, transmission and primary chain case use. Expect smooth, quiet shifting with maximum component life. It contains additives to prevent wear and the 100% synthetic base oil will not shear (thin out). Therefore, transmission or primary components do not become susceptible to accelerated wear.

AMSOIL has secondary recommendations of AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-110 for the gearbox and Severe Gear 75W-140 for the primary gearbox, but the company themselves will tell you that there is absolutely no advantage to using gear oil in these components instead of 20W-50. Some may think they are using a thicker oil by using a gear oil. However, remember that motor oils and transmission oils use different viscosity scales to avoid confusion.

What about gear oil?

Let’s look at the actual viscosity values ​​of AMSOIL 20W-50 motorcycle oil and AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90, 75W-110 and 75W-140. The industry standard for measuring viscosity is in “centistokes” at 100°C.

“MCV” AMSOIL 20W-50: 18.5

“SVG” Severe Gear 75W-90: 16.8

“SVT” Severe Gear 75W-110: 21.3

“SVO” Heavy Equipment 75W-140: 27.5

As you can see, the 20W-50 motorcycle oil is relatively close to the 75W-110 in terms of actual viscosity. So those who choose a gear oil and think they are using thicker oil really aren’t. Those who use an 80W or 75W-90 in their transmissions are actually using a much thinner oil. The viscosity of the 20W-50 motorcycle oil is right on the “sweet spot” for optimal operation in all three holes and the many positive reviews we receive confirm this.

Gear oils contain high doses of “extreme pressure” additives, which many believe prevent gear wear and provide quieter operation. Here, too, AMSOIL 20W-50 motorcycle oil is filled with additives that have been specially developed to prevent wear in clutches, gears, chains and sprockets. There are absolutely no downsides to going the 20w-50 route.

Some advertise the use of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in Harley primary chain cases. We do not recommend this option. Let’s look again at actual viscosity numbers to back this up. The viscosity of a typical ATF at 100°C is 7.5 centistokes. We state that the ATF viscosity is far too thin for this application and think the risk of long-term wear is far too great. AMSOIL 20W-50 has a viscosity of 18.5 centistokes.

Comfort: One effective product for everything

The second main reason we recommend using 20W-50 motorcycle oil in the engine, transmission and primary chaincase is that you can buy one product for everything. This allows you to stock one product and take an oil to refill when you travel. In summary, AMSOIL Synthetic 20W-50 performs exceptionally well in all three holes, it keeps things simple.

‍ At what speed should I shift gears on a motorcycle?

So how do you know when to change gears on a motorcycle? And how fast are you driving? Your bike will tell you by the sound and response of the motor that it needs to change gears. The bicycle is switched sequentially. That means the lowest gear is 1st and the neutral is half a click higher between 1st and 2nd.

The bottom line is to change gears when your speed demands it, and this is accomplished by coordinating both hands (right for throttle and left for clutch) with your left foot for the shifter while keeping your eyes more on the Road in front of you as you look down at the controls.

Let’s say you’re starting from a stop and you’re in first gear, back off the throttle to build up enough rpm to fully release the clutch, and move. What’s next? Second gear is needed quickly to keep accelerating. These moves can be completed in a split second after a little practice, but make sure the movements are gentle at first until you get used to the bike and its reactions.

To reiterate, speed is more of a guideline than a requirement. Instead of following a rule-based shifting system, the motorcyclist should always pay attention to the bike and shift accordingly.

Over time the rider will get used to the demands of the bike and shift gears to their preferred pace based on instinct only. You don’t have to worry if you are a newbie and worried about the speed at which you should change gears.

Although the majority of current cars have automatic transmissions, virtually every motorcycle has a manual transmission. In the end, it comes down to hand-eye, foot-eye, and eye-hand coordination.

First layer

First, let’s talk about the first course. For first gear, the recommended speed range is 0 to 9 mph.

It’s a good idea to know where the clutch engages before you shift into first gear. Put the bike in neutral by squeezing the clutch lever. The primary purpose of first gear is to propel the motorcycle from standstill to launch. You rarely drive in first gear unless you’re stuck on a steep slope. At best, driving in first gear is a chore. The smooth operation of the bike only begins in second gear.

First gear, which is mainly used to move the motorcycle from a stopped position to a starting position, differs from the other gears in that it is positioned at the bottom of the motorcycle, while the rest of the gears are all at the top, with the neutral gear in between lies first and second gear. This is for safety considerations during an emergency.

The neutral gear in between tells the rider that first gear should only be used for starting and moving the motorcycle forward.

Slowly release the clutch lever until the motorcycle starts to move. This is where the interaction begins. To begin driving in first gear, gently release the clutch while gradually increasing the throttle. If you release the clutch too quickly, the engine may jerk or stall, and if you open the throttle too much, the rear wheel will spin.

Second gear

Getting the most comfort out of your motorcycle doesn’t begin until you put it in second gear. The recommended speed range for second gear is between 15 and 29 km/h. Once you’ve engaged first gear, keep accelerating until it’s time to shift into second. When driving on congested and congested highways, second gear is the most commonly used gear. The rider is unable to accelerate the motorcycle to high revs due to heavy traffic.

In addition, the second gear does not have the turbulence of the first gear and is more comfortable to drive even when driving slowly in traffic.

third layer

The recommended speed range for third gear is between 18 and 24 mph. From here the speed range is more of a rough guide than something that must be strictly adhered to.

In addition, the rpm and speed of the gears, particularly the higher gears, vary slightly between motorcycle makes and models.

Fourth gear

The recommended speed range for fourth gear is between 24 and 54 km/h.

Again, the speed range is intended as a rough guide and not something that must be fully adhered to. At 50 km/h you can even shift into fifth gear and that wouldn’t be a problem at all.

In the speed range from 40 km/h to 55 km/h, the power development is perfect in accordance with the translation in fourth gear.

When you shift into fourth gear, your motorcycle will begin to accelerate rapidly. From here you start driving at breakneck speed. Although 24 mph may not seem like a high speed, it is still a significant speed and any accidents that occur at this speed can result in serious injury to the driver.

The 5th and 6th gear

The best speed for 5th and 6th gear is over 54 km/h. You only shift into fifth gear when the road is quiet, there is little traffic, or you are driving on the motorway. But you can even shift into fifth gear at 50 km/h.

In the event of a fall or accident, driving in fifth or sixth gear poses an increased risk of injury to the driver. So if you ride your motorcycle in fifth or sixth gear, you should be cautious and ready to downshift. Because the speed limit for these higher gears is 34 mph, the driver must be careful and be prepared to downshift or apply the brakes quickly.

The biggest benefit of consciously changing gears according to their appropriate speed range is that the motorcycle parts will last longer.

gear down

You have to downshift when you slow down or stop, and you know it’s time when the engine pitches down and it starts struggling. Release the throttle, depress the clutch, and then pull the shifter down to shift down a gear. Then slowly release the clutch while increasing the throttle to increase engine speed.

When downshifting, the goal is to match the lower gear of the higher gear to the engine rpm before slowing down to smooth the transition and prevent rear wheel lockup.

To downshift without the clutch, you must use a method known as “blipping” the throttle. This involves driving backwards with the throttle closed, while opening the throttle slightly to relieve the clutch and allow a gear change. You schedule your shift with the short window when the revs are at maximum and the transmission is unloaded, similar to a clutchless upshift.

Clutchless downshifts work best when you’re braking on the brakes, as it helps match road speed to engine RPM. However, to do this you need to be on the gas and pulling on the front brake lever at the same time, which is a difficult combination to master.

The advantages of speed-dependent gear changes

First and foremost, the clutch discs are in good condition. The clutch disc is not easily burned or damaged.

Secondly, the gearbox does not get stuck, and the gearbox works smoothly for a long time.

Third, the engine components can work smoothly without an irregular load from the gear and gearbox.

Finally, you get the maximum mileage out of your motorcycle when you change and shift gears depending on the speed range. Mileage or fuel efficiency will improve significantly.

Things to consider when changing gears

One of the most common problems with motorcycle transmissions is that they don’t shift smoothly. Problems with the sprockets, chain, engine oil, clutch cable and the shifter itself are the most common causes of shifting problems.

If your gears aren’t moving up or down, one of these four things isn’t working properly:

Sprockets – Worn chain or loose chain

Transmission – a seized transmission with a foreign object in the transmission assembly

Clutch – the cable either has too little or too much slack

Oil/Lubrication – Either the oil level is low or you have used a poor quality oil

Also, if you don’t change gears according to their speed ranges, the gear may get stuck or the bike may stall excessively.

Is it possible to start a motorcycle in gear?

Simply pull the clutch to start motorcycles in first gear. The bike starts in higher gears but stalls when you release the clutch to go forward. Motorcycles will not start in any gear if the clutch switch is not working.

The vast majority of motorcyclists wonder what a motorcycle’s revs are for. Is there a set of ideal RPMs you should be using when driving, idling and shifting gears?

Or should you ignore RPM completely and just ride the bike by feel? This article has been specifically written to clear all your doubts about motorcycle RPMs.

What is motorcycle RPM?

A motorcycle’s RPM refers to the revolutions per minute of the crankshaft, which converts linear motion into rotary motion. RPM is not related to the speed of the motorcycle or how fast the tires are spinning.

Many people mistakenly believe that RPM is about how fast the tires spin. RPM is actually the movement of the crankshaft.

The crankshaft is connected to the piston; The up and down movement of the piston and the subsequent combustion provide the power to keep the engine running smoothly.

The engine sprocket is connected to the rear wheel sprocket with a metal chain. The rotation of the transmission shaft (motor) causes the rear wheel to move and so a motorcycle moves forward.

Put simply, the faster the engine revs, the faster the wheels spin. RPM is proportional to speed when you’re talking about a single gear.

If you shift into a higher gear, it takes less engine speed to turn the wheels at the same speed. In other words, the engine moves slower to keep the same speed as the motorcycle. This is because the motor gear gets larger compared to the gear connected to the rear wheels

The purpose of the gearbox is to ensure that the engine is operating within reasonable speeds. If the engine speed is too low, you should downshift. If the engine speed is very high and you want to accelerate further, you should also upshift.

Why do motorcycles have high revs?

Motorcycles have high speeds because motorcycle engines have cylinders whose bore diameter is large and the piston stroke is short, resulting in relatively shorter cycles, resulting in high motorcycle speeds.

Motorcycles are lightweight as they are smaller than other vehicles and can only carry one or two people at a time. This explains why motorcycles require less torque (rotational force) to operate.

In addition, motorcycles are high-performance vehicles that require immense power. Therefore, they are equipped with low torque and powerful motor.

The ideal engine for a motorcycle would be a large bore engine with light pistons and short strokes. This allows the pistons to complete their cycle quickly and generate high speeds.

Cars, vans and trucks are utility vehicles that are significantly heavier than motorcycles and require greater torque and heavier pistons to operate. As a result, these vehicles have fairly low engine speeds.

Are high revs bad for the engine?

Motorcycle engine speeds are generally higher than most other vehicles. If engine RPM isn’t consistently in the red zone, high RPM isn’t bad for the engine. Motorcycle engines can easily handle high revs because they are designed for performance.

At what RPM should a motorcycle go?

A motorcycle should run at between 3000 and 8000 rpm. This is to ensure that the RPM of the motorcycle while riding is not too high to overload the engine and not too low to cause the engine to drag.

It’s okay to reline the engine once in a blue moon. Most motorcycles have a point after the redline where the fuel supply will automatically cut and the engine will slow down.

What happens when the RPM goes red?

If the motorcycle RPM constantly goes into the red zone, it will damage the engine and wear it out prematurely. The redline is the area where the engine has to work very hard to reach the desired RPMs.

Engine redlining also leads to inefficient fuel consumption. You’re just going to waste too much gas for very little return.

Instead, you should shift into a higher gear for the best results in terms of fuel efficiency, engine life, and overall smoothness of your bike.

Even more damaging than redlining your motorcycle engine is towing. As soon as your engine starts to lag, you should immediately downshift, accelerate in the lower gear and then upshift when you have gained significant speed and want to accelerate further.

Towing the motorcycle engine simply means that you are asking too much of the engine. In order to maintain the speed of the gear used, the engine has to work significantly harder.

This leads to a drastic increase in engine temperature and pressure. If the temperature and pressure in the cylinders exceed a certain value, there is a risk that the pistons and bore will be damaged. This damage can also spread to other parts of the motorcycle.

The expensive replacement is not worth the risk. Shift down immediately!

The 3000-8000 rpm I suggest is for average bikes and should only be used as a guide. Different motorcycles have different RPM ranges.

At what RPM should you ride a motorcycle?

As a rule of thumb, it would be ideal to run your motorcycle at half the maximum achievable RPM. This equates to 3000-8000 RPM on most motorcycles. By listening to your motorcycle engine you can determine the correct RPMs you should be running your motorcycle at.

At what RPM should a motorcycle idle?

Single cylinder motorcycle engines should idle at around 1350 rpm while twin cylinder motorcycle engines should idle at around 1000 rpm. Higher engine idle speeds are to be expected as the motorcycle warms up.

Idling refers to the RPM of the engine when it is not moving and the gear is in neutral.

The motorcycle idle speed is initially set according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Every motorcycle has a certain idle speed at which it works optimally.

Dangers of low idle speed

If the idle speed is too low, there is a chance that the motorcycle will stall. If you do not step on the gas pedal, the engine may stall. It could also result in lower oil pressure.

Causes and solutions for low idle speed

Your motorcycle’s idle screw is set too low. Adjust according to the motorcycle manufacturer’s manual. A clog in the fuel tank canister can reduce fuel flow to the engine. Unlock it! The valves in your motorcycle may be too tight. Look at her! The throttle bodies are not properly synchronized. Get them synced! Lean air/fuel ratio. Check if you have made any adjustments to the motorcycle such as B. Adding a new exhaust pipe or air filter; This could cause more air to flow to parts of the motorcycle. The throttle position sensor may not be properly adjusted. Customize it!

Danger from high idle speed

If the motorcycle RPM is significantly high even after the engine has warmed up, you need to investigate the cause of the problem. High idle speeds can result in poor fuel economy and engine wear.

There is also a safety hazard associated with high idle speeds. Rapid brake release can cause the motorcycle to jump forward and hit the obstacle in front.

Causes and solutions for high idle speed

The idle screw is set too high. Reset it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The throttle bodies are not properly synchronized. Get them synced! The throttle position sensor may not be properly adjusted. Customize it! The cold start lever cable can become stuck and prevent the valves from closing. Let it go! Your motorcycle’s rubber intake hoses are leaking. Fix the leak! Oil temperature sensor not working properly. Get a new one! The water temperature sensor is not working properly. Have it replaced!

What causes RPM fluctuations at idle?

Motorbike engine RPM fluctuations at idle are caused by various factors such as incomplete combustion, air/fuel ratio, slight temperature changes, dirty air filters, stale fuel and worn oil. If the speed fluctuations persist despite regular maintenance, you should have your motorcycle checked.

You should maintain your motorcycle regularly. This will ensure its longevity. If the motorcycle RPM fluctuates and levels off soon after, don’t worry.

However, if the RPM fluctuation persists for several minutes, you should definitely have your motorcycle checked. Fixing the problem early can save you a lot of money in the future.

What is the best RPM for shifting a motorcycle?

The best RPM for shifting on an average motorcycle is between 4500 and 7000 RPM. However, the best RPMs to shift gears should depend on how the engine sounds and feels. Failure to shift gears at the correct time can result in possible damage to the motorcycle engine.

Every motorcycle is different and the 4500-7000 rpm range should be used as a guide for the average motorcycle. Ideally, you should shift when the engine sounds and feels right. You will master this over time.

If you shift up and feel like the engine is about to stall and the bike is rough, it means you have shifted gears too soon. Towing the engine will damage it. You should allow your motorcycle to reach higher speeds before shifting up.

After you shift up and the bike still feels like it needs to be up a gear when you were slow with shifting gears. In such cases, you should shift gears earlier.

Conclusion

The speedometer is more of a guide than anything else. Focusing too much on the RPMs on the speedometer can distract from the main goal, which is driving safely to reach your goal.

With enough experience, you will learn the ideal RPM at which you should run your motorcycle. Shifting gears is an intuitive process, and the sound and feel of the engine are good indicators of when to shift gears. Safe riding!