Harley Fuel Pump Not Coming On? The 230 Detailed Answer

Testing your sensor is easy. Put your multimeter in continuity test mode and touch the probes on the two leads. Then tilt to determine the angle at which the switch opens and closes.

When pointing down, the switch is open loop (no continuity).

When it points up, the switch is closed (low-impedance/continuous).

It probably won’t work. Carbureted bikes with fuel pumps operate low pressure pumps, but the fuel lines generally have quite a maze to get through and often bottom out somewhere for a filter etc so pure gravity feed won’t work. On my ’95 VFR, the fuel pump was the lowest part of the system and then the fuel lines went uphill to get to the carburetors.

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Whether you’re an experienced motorcyclist or new to the game, we can all agree that having trouble starting a motorbike is frustrating.

Motorbikes are fairly simple creatures, but finding the culprit that’s preventing your machine from starting can still be tricky. I’ve been there myself many times. I have owned over 12 bikes and have gone through this process with each and every one.

Luckily, through my own trial and error, my mechanical training and a bit of luck, I was able to troubleshoot several areas of the bike. Based on my knowledge and research I am able to list possible reasons why your motorcycle will not start and how these issues can be resolved.

If you want to own a motorcycle, I recommend keeping a few basic but essential tools (see my list of recommended tools here) on hand in case you get stuck in such a crisis.

Dead battery

Symptoms of a Dead Battery: This is the easiest problem to diagnose and probably the most common reason a motorcycle won’t start.

Depending on how low your battery is, if there’s some voltage left you might be able to turn the key and turn on the turn signal, but turning is slow and sluggish. If your battery is completely dead, your motorcycle will not make any noise at all when you try to start it.

How a Motorcycle Battery Dies: When a motorcycle battery sits unused and sits, it loses its capacity to power your motorcycle.

There is also a phenomenon called parasitic runoff. This happens when motorcycle computers and poorly grounded cables cause the battery to drain slightly over time. If you notice your battery losing charge quickly, it’s probably due to parasitic discharge. See my article here for more details on what happens when a battery just sits.

To fix this: Get a multimeter and switch it to DC voltage and set it to the 20 volt setting for DC. Now put the separate wires on the two battery posts (if you read a negative number it just means you need to switch the wires to the other battery post).

If the reading reads close to or slightly below 12 volts, charge your battery and try starting your motorcycle again. If it’s a really low number, e.g. B. 9 volts or less then your battery is pretty fried and you need to buy a new one.

If you continue to see problems with your battery losing voltage, try a battery charger that can charge your battery when you are not using it.

Dirty carburetor

Symptoms of a Dirty Carburetor: There are several ways to determine if a dirty or faulty carburetor is your problem. If you have an electric starter, detach the air intake, squeeze the starter and squirt starter fluid directly into your carburetor. If it starts and revs for a few seconds, that means you have a dirty carburetor.

How the Carburetor Gets Dirty: Debris and dirt can build up in your fuel system. Over time the deposits build up and can easily block the fuel passages, especially the jets in the carburetor because they are so small. Failure to use a fuel filter will quickly result in a dirty carburetor.

Here’s how to fix it: You need to thoroughly clean your carbs. To do this you will have to remove the air intake and then unclip the carburetor from your motorcycle engine. Before disassembling, be sure to take photos so you can remember how to put it back together. If necessary, label the parts with some tape.

You’ll have to disassemble part of the carburetor and buy some new gaskets when you put it back together. I highly recommend checking your owner’s manual on how to reassemble your carburetor specifically for your motorcycle. If you don’t have access to your owner’s manual, visit emanualonline.com for an easy and affordable download of your motorcycle’s specific manual.

The best way to clean the carburetor is to dip all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner and give it a few spins. When used with the correct solution, the ultrasonic cleaner emits an ultrasound that agitates the solution. This easily breaks down fuel build-up and dirt that has accumulated in hard-to-reach places.

An ultrasonic cleaner is available at any auto or hardware store and is generally inexpensive.

If using an ultrasonic cleaner is not an option, it is possible to clean it by hand, although this is not as thorough as using an ultrasonic cleaner. You can soak it in hot soapy water and then rinse it off. Be sure to look through the jet holes and make sure there are no clogs; Any clogs will cause your motorcycle to perform poorly.

I have created a video series on motorcycle restoration and this series includes a 25 minute detailed video on carburetor cleaning/rebuilding. This series also includes other hard-to-manage components such as bodywork and electrics. I share dozens of tips and tricks you won’t find anywhere else online. Click here for more information, if you are interested in watching several videos to help you repair your motorcycle, or if you are interested in fully building your dream motorcycle!

Blown fuses

Symptoms of blown fuses: The motorcycle sounds perfectly normal when you try to start it, but it spins forever and brings no results.

You can even try spraying starter fluid into the carb, but it still won’t make a difference because the fuse can’t send a spark to the spark plug to ignite.

How a fuse blows: A blown fuse generally means there is a bad ground wire somewhere, especially if you have to replace the same fuse over and over again. Sometimes someone tries to wire aftermarket lights or a horn and they run the wrong wire somewhere.

You have the positive wire straight to ground and it’s too many amps for that fuse to handle, causing the fuse to blow to protect the battery and wiring. I have written a more detailed article on why motorcycle fuses blow which you can find by clicking here.

How to fix: There is only one fuse that can affect a motorcycle’s starting. Every motorcycle usually has a main fuse, which is between 30 and 50 amps (occasionally some bikes are 20 amps). It is usually outside of the positive battery cable. Sometimes it’s an inline backup and sometimes it’s a regular block backup.

Check the main fuse and see if it has blown. You can tell the fuse is blown either by black material appearing on the fuse or if the wires inside the fuse are disconnected. If necessary, replace the fuse. Any auto parts store will be able to find the right fuse you need.

If it keeps blowing, buy a small circuit breaker at any auto store for a few dollars and stick the circuit breaker in the line until you figure out why the fuse keeps blowing. A circuit breaker is like a fuse in the sense that it will blow for a second but can then be snapped back to its original position, so you don’t have to keep replacing the fuse.

You need to figure out which wire is badly grounded. You can test your cables with a multimeter, which will help you find the cable that is causing the problem.

Too cold

Symptoms that your motorcycle is too cold: This only applies to carburetor-equipped motorcycles and does not usually affect fuel-injected motorcycles. Your motorcycle will sound like it’s trying to start, but the spin sounds will likely sound a little slower than normal

How cold temperatures prevent you from starting your bike: Of course you can calibrate this based on the outside temperature. Gasoline does not fully vaporize when mixed with air in cold temperatures and therefore does not burn properly.

Sometimes ice forms inside the carburetor, making it impossible for the fuel-air mixture to get through some of its parts. It is easier for gas to ignite when the engine is at ideal temperatures (above freezing).

To fix the problem: If possible, take your motorcycle to a garage or shed with an electrical outlet. You need to hook up a parking heater and blow directly on your engine and carburetor for at least 20 minutes. This will not fully warm up your engine, but will warm it up enough to start it. I have used this method hundreds of times and it has worked great. For more information on starting a motorcycle in cold temperatures see my article here.

If possible, always keep your motorcycle covered and/or somewhere indoors to protect it from the elements. You can find more detailed information on this in my guide to long-term storage.

Clogged injector

Symptoms of a clogged injector: Your motorcycle will try to spin normally when you try to start it, but no combustion will take place. If you know it fires properly and that there is gas in the tank, but it’s been sitting for a while, your culprit is probably a clogged fuel injector.

You can also check your injectors manually. If they look dirty and clogged, that means they need to be cleaned or replaced.

How fuel injectors become clogged: This is not very common in fuel injection systems. If you ride your motorcycle fairly often, fuel is constantly flowing through your injectors, which ultimately cleans it as you run.

A clogged injector generally occurs when you leave your motorcycle for a very long time. This ultimately creates old, gelled fuel that will clog your injectors and simply prevent the fuel from going through. See what else happens to your bike if you let it sit by reading my other article by clicking here.

To fix the problem: There are ways to clean your injectors, including using a solution specifically for cleaning; There’s even a tool for cleaning injectors. But since fuel injectors are generally cheap, you might as well spend your money buying new ones rather than buying a tool to clean them.

Bad spark plugs

Symptoms of Bad Spark Plugs: When a spark plug is on the verge of failing, the motorcycle will run poorly, sound louder than normal and appear almost “despondent”. Eventually, when a spark plug has completely failed, your motorcycle will try to turn over but just won’t start.

Even if you have no idea when they were last changed, this could be a good indication that they’ve been used up.

How Spark Plugs Stop Working: A spark plug can go bad in a number of ways. First, it is possible for the ceramic coating to crack. When a cracked spark plug is installed, the spark will find the path of least resistance through the crack and be grounded to your engine block, rather than going to the end of the spark plug and jumping across the gap as intended.

The spark plug can crack if it is either dropped on the ground before installation or simply gets old and the extreme heat takes its toll.

Second, fowling can cause a spark plug to go bad. Running too lean, meaning there isn’t enough gas, or running too rich, meaning there is too much gas (or if oil explodes with your gas), will foul the tip of your spark plug and it won’t fire properly.

The third way a spark plug can fail is that the gap between the center electrode and the side electrode (or the gap between the two points at the end of the spark plug) is not properly adjusted. This distance is set by the manufacturer and must be a certain distance for it to ignite properly. If it’s too far or too close, it won’t ignite properly.

How to Fix It: Fortunately, fixing a spark plug is easy; You just need to buy new spark plugs. Spark plugs are usually only a few dollars and are readily available at any car dealership. If you need to replace one spark plug, make sure you replace all the others as well, even if they don’t need them. As a result, your motorcycle runs much smoother.

Bad starter

Bad Starter Symptoms: This only applies if you have an electric starter. A bad start can make several strange noises. A sound would be a clicking sound. Another noise it will make is a whirring noise (almost like a high-pitched, obnoxious hum) which will tell you that the gears aren’t catching on anything.

The third sign to look out for is if you don’t hear any noise when trying to start, even though you know the battery is good and the starter is connected properly.

How a Starter Stops Working: The most common cause of a starter going bad is age. These are parts that don’t last forever and will eventually become inoperable with constant use. There are also other posts, such as B. bad cable connections and overheating of the starter.

How to fix it: There is no way around it, you just need to get a new starter.

Bad ignition coil

Bad Ignition Coil Symptoms: A bad ignition coil will cause your motorcycle to have poor spark circulation. If you know you have enough fuel, your battery is connected properly, and your spark plug wires aren’t cracked, then you have a problem with the ignition coil. Poor idling and stalling lead to this problem.

Your motorcycle may tip over, but will not stop and stall. Or you can turn your motorcycle over but can’t start fully because the coil can’t support the start.

This is how an ignition coil stops working: Over time, vibration and heat can damage the winding in the coil. However, the main reason for ignition coil failure is voltage overload due to poorly working spark plugs.

Here’s how to fix it: You need to replace it when you know it’s broken. Ignition coils are fairly easy to replace and generally inexpensive for motorcycles.

You can use a multimeter to test the voltages around the ignition coil to make sure this is the real problem before buying a new one.

Broken spark plug wires

Symptoms of a cracked spark plug wire: Although the symptoms of a cracked spark plug wire are similar to all of the other problems listed in this article, there is one telltale sign that your problem is the spark plug wires.

All you have to do is a visual inspection. Bend and move the spark plug wires; Look for cracks or tears in the plastic. Although an easy fix, a broken spark plug wire could be potentially dangerous if touched while the motorcycle is running. The spark could punch through you as you are grounded and cause severe burns.

How spark plug wires snap: Over time, constant heat will wear down the rubber/plastic material that makes up your wires. Other extreme weather conditions will accelerate this process.

Here’s how to fix it: all you have to do is replace the spark plug wire. If you notice a wire becoming brittle, it’s a good idea to replace all of the other spark plug wires while you’re at it, as they’re likely to break soon, too.

No airflow

Symptoms of no airflow: Again, you may not have trouble turning, but you may have trouble starting. Other symptoms are starting but it stalls immediately, or you start and drive a few feet down the road and it stalls when you accelerate.

You can determine if your airflow is your problem by examining your air filter in the airbox. You can temporarily remove your airbox or pod filters (if you are not in a dusty environment) and try starting your bike again. When your motorcycle starts, you know your problem is airflow. If you’re unsure whether you should have an airbox or use pod filters, read my helpful guide on the subject here.

How the air gets clogged: This is usually caused by a dirty air filter that hasn’t been cleaned or replaced in a while, or clogged pod filters (although pod filters don’t usually have an air clogging problem).

How to fix it: All you have to do is replace your air filter in the airbox or replace your pod filters if needed.

timing is off

Symptoms of Improper Timing: This is most likely not your problem, especially if your bike has previously run fine, but it’s definitely worth noting.

When you have this problem you will have difficulty starting your motorcycle with the possibility that it will not even turn. When you try to start it, you may hear a ticking noise. You might also be able to start it and it can backfire and then stall. If your motorcycle was having major problems with oil leaks while running and was smoking like crazy, or you could hear a ticking noise while running, the timing in the engine is probably wrong.

How the motorcycle engine timing comes off: It is possible that the timing was not set correctly if someone previously disassembled your engine and reassembled it together with or without professional help. The electronic control module could also be very old and causing your timing to be off.

How to fix it: To know if bad timing is the bike’s problem, you need to remove one of the crankcase covers where you will see a timing mark on the stator. The stator mark needs to line up with the motor mark, then you need to remove the valve cover and make sure the valves are positioned correctly.

The timing of each motorcycle is different from each other. If you are a beginner, do not try to diagnose and fix this yourself. I recommend everyone to take their bike to a workshop and have it timed professionally.

Confiscated engine

Symptoms of a stuck engine: If you have an electric starter, your engine won’t even crank. Your starter will make a brief clicking noise and then a hum. This is the sound of the electric motor and the starter trying to turn over but not being able to. You can also blow the main fuse because of the build up of so much current.

If you have a kickstarter, if you put it in neutral and can’t kickstart it (which means you can’t move the kickstarter at all) it could mean your engine is stalled or you have a bad transmission.

How a motorcycle engine seizes: The first and most common reason for a motorcycle engine to seize is a lack of lubrication. The second reason is due to old or dirty oil. The third most common reason is rust and dirt deposits in the cylinder walls from long periods of sitting. I’ve put together a guide to figuring out whether or not a stuck motor is your problem. You can find it by clicking here.

How to Fix It: There are several ways you can fix a stuck engine, but unless you absolutely know what you’re doing I recommend taking your bike to a shop to have it fixed, or at least have them fix it to find exact reason for it is confiscated. Fixing a stuck engine can be very difficult depending on the severity and you can cause more problems if you tinker with it.

Wrong gear

Symptoms of being in the wrong gear: This applies mostly to kickstarter bikes. This is primarily a safety feature to prevent people from starting their bike in gear and immediately jerking forward.

Depending on your motorcycle make and model, your motorcycle may turn but not start, may make a grinding noise or no noise at all.

How a motorcycle goes into the wrong gear: Often people turn off their motorcycle while it’s in gear and forget to put it back into neutral.

To fix the problem: Put your motorcycle in neutral and try to start it again.

related questions

What types of motorcycles are the easiest to restore? Most motorcycles made between the 70’s and 90’s are a good starting point if you want to restore a motorcycle. Japanese bikes are the easiest to restore, while European bikes are a bit more difficult. For more information see my article here.

How difficult is repairing a motorcycle compared to repairing a car? Motorcycles are much easier to repair than cars. However, motorcycles and cars share the same basic systems. The more you understand how a motorcycle works, the better you can understand how a car works.

It’s incredibly annoying to find a bike that’s running low on cargo and can’t turn around. you wonder; did you leave the light on did you leave the key in Many thoughts run through your mind, but none of them will bring your motorcycle back to life.

Many riders are aware that they can push their bikes, but what if the bike you ride is fuel injected? Can we just push it like we push a carbureted motorcycle?

How do you start a fuel injected motorcycle? To push a fuel injected motorcycle, you must first ensure you have enough space in front of you to push it. Then shift into second gear and hold the clutch in the on position with the key in the ignition and the engine start switch. Push it further forward, release the clutch, and then press the start button.

Remember that before you start your motorcycle, make sure that your battery is the reason your motorcycle will not start. Make sure there is gas and the fuel pump is working etc. If something other than your battery is causing a false start you could seriously damage the fuel pump or starter so be careful!

How to start a fuel injected motorcycle

Push-starting a fuel-injected motorcycle involves working through two different scenarios. The first scenario is that your motorcycle turns on, i. H. the computer turns on and the fuel pump makes a whirring noise but does not turn or start.

In this situation you can push your motorcycle as you expect. The second scenario is that both the computers and the fuel pump do not turn on. We will look at and sketch both.

Regarding the first scenario, start by finding an area with enough space, as this will help you speed up later. Second, shift the transmission into second gear with your hand on the clutch and make sure you have the key in the ignition and the engine start switch in the on position.

With the bike on, second gear in gear, the clutch lever engaged and some space in front of you, go ahead and ride. It helps to have another person behind you to push you. Once you start coasting about 10 mph, have your friend stop pushing you, then release the clutch and hit the start button. Hold it for a few seconds to ensure your bike has multiple chances to flip.

Once the bike starts, you should use the throttle to increase the RPM to around 2,000 with the clutch lever closed. After it’s been running for a minute or two, you can take your hand off the gas and let the bike sit and idle.

Testing battery health is a lesson for another time, but just because you push your bike doesn’t mean your battery is in good condition, and the bike not starting could be a sign of other battery-related issues. Now that the bike is running, take it to a place where you can test the condition of the battery to make sure you don’t have any starting problems next time.

What about the second scenario I outlined above where the computer doesn’t have enough juice to turn on? Fuel injected motorcycles rely on electronics to start and run properly. If a fuel injected bike’s computer won’t turn on and consequently the fuel pump isn’t getting enough power, you won’t be able to push the bike and will have to find other methods to start the bike.

Some other methods may include jump starting the battery, placing the battery in a trickle charger, or replacing the battery. In any case, you can’t push-start a fuel-injected bike that doesn’t have enough battery power to turn on the computer.

Push-start of a fuel-injected motorcycle compared to a carburetor-equipped motorcycle

As I just outlined, if a fuel-injected bike has enough battery power, the procedure for pushing is nearly identical to that of a carbureted motorcycle. The difference between these two systems becomes apparent when you begin to delve into troubleshooting diagnostics related to the starter system.

When I had my first bike I had a 1997 Yamaha Virago with a carburetor. When I got to it one day it wouldn’t start and instead of checking for possible fuel system problems I figured it was a bad battery so I looked into push starting. After about 5 attempts to start it, I reluctantly concluded that it wouldn’t start.

After some troubleshooting I came to the conclusion that the problem was in the carburetor. The first step before pushing a motorcycle is to make sure you have a battery problem and not a tank problem. The same can happen with fuel injected systems, but for different reasons.

With my first bike I had left it for a while which got dirt into the carburetor and caused a stall. Fuel-injected systems don’t have to worry about contaminant build-up like a carburetor system does, but a fuel pump failure or short circuit is not an uncommon problem on motorcycles.

To find out the cause of your starting failure, you should start with more obvious systems to test them out before looking at the harder to reach places. To give an example, if you turn the key or flick the start switch and nothing happens and no lights come on, that’s a good sign that no power is being delivered from the battery to the bike.

On a fuel-injected bike, if you flip the engine start switch and don’t hear the fuel pump under the tank whistling or howling, you could have a problem, especially if other parts of the bike turn on and light up.

Overall, with any motorcycle you come across that will not exhibit a starting condition it is crucial that you isolate the source of the fault and if you then determine that the battery is the problem then you should attempt to isolate the cause of the battery in the first place unloaded.

Sometimes outside temperature fluctuations can cause an already old battery to over-discharge, or maybe a headlight has been left on. Every situation is different, but the procedures for testing and troubleshooting are the same.

Is it bad for a fuel-injected motorcycle to push?

If your motorcycle has the battery power to turn on the computer, you shouldn’t have to worry about pushing it damaging it if you do it right. If you try to start your bike for too long without success, problems can arise.

For example, if you push it and it won’t turn, you should be careful not to overheat the fuel pump or starter motor. If there is no gas in the tank, or perhaps a fuel pump is defective, prolonged attempts to start it will send too much current through the two systems and possibly burn them out, which can become very costly.

No one wants to find themselves in a situation where their bike won’t start and if we are careful in our riding procedures and diligent in our maintenance and storage techniques we should never have a problem but we all know it rarely works that way.

We wear helmets and other gear to protect ourselves from what-ifs, and we should learn how to push our bikes for the same reason. In general, pushing is a simple process that should be fully understood. As always, stay safe and drive carefully.

Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon to leave a motorcycle longer than it should without using it. Most of us motorcycle owners have. But there are some out there that let their bikes sit longer, even years. When you come across a motorcycle that was in this situation, you may wonder if you can even revive it.

Fortunately, motorcycles are much less complex than cars, so it’s entirely possible to revive a motorcycle that’s been sitting between a few months and 20 years.

So how do you start a stationary motorcycle? To start a stationary motorcycle you must first charge/change the battery. Next you need to change the oil, replace the gasoline and inspect the carburetor and jets to make sure they are not clogged. After these have been checked, you can try to start the motorcycle.

Even after checking these points, your motorcycle may still not start. It can be frustrating, but it usually takes a few tries before it starts. I have put together a detailed guide that can help you get your motorcycle started after a while.

How to start a motorcycle that has been sitting

A motorcycle that has stood still for 20 years is in a different condition than a motorcycle that has only stood still for a few months. But no matter how long a motorcycle has been sitting, these are the first steps you need to take to get it going.

The first thing you need to do is charge or change the battery. Check the battery expiration date. If it’s close to or well past its expiration date, you simply have to buy a new one. When a motorcycle has stood still for years, it is imperative that you get a new battery; You don’t want to use one that has been dormant for years.

Once you have the new battery hooked up, the next thing to do is change the oil. Even if the bike has only been sitting for a few months, dormant oil can still go bad, in fact it ages much faster if not used.

When the motorcycle has sat for years you may find that the oil is a bit rusty and watery. You might even feel a little satisfied with removing all that corroded oil from the bike. If the motorcycle has been sitting for more than a few months, you may need to do another oil change soon after starting the motorcycle to ensure you are removing all rust particles and moisture from the engine.

Next, you need to completely drain the gas tank and fuel lines and pour in new gasoline. Gasoline can gel over time, which probably happened on this bike you work with. This will clog many elements on the bike, so you will likely need to replace the fuel lines and install a fuel filter in the fuel line.

One of the biggest consequences of old gasoline on a motorcycle is a clogged carburetor. The jets in a carburetor are incredibly small, so they can clog very easily.

Through my experience restoring motorcycles, even those that have been sitting for years, I have found that the common reason a motorcycle won’t start is a dirty carburetor, so this is probably the main reason why your motorcycle won’t start .

Thoroughly clean the carburetor of your stationary motorcycle. It’s a good idea to get a carburetor rebuild kit so you can replace some of the bolts and gaskets. Conversion kits usually come with a set of instructions that make assembly a lot easier.

I recommend using an ultrasonic cleaner to really clean the carburetor. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove any deposits that have developed in places you can’t see or reach on the carburetor and give excellent results.

At this point you may also want to get a new set of tires. Tires that have been sitting for a while are most likely to have flat spots and cracks that render tires unusable.

If you still cannot get the bike to start after going through this list, there may be some underlying problems, especially if the bike has been sitting for a number of years.

It’s actually quite common for water to get into the engine and cause the pistons to rust up. It’s annoying when this happens, but it’s fixable. First, you can try pouring some lube into all the spark plug holes and wait a few hours for the pistons to soak in the lube. You can also try starting the engine manually by turning the flywheel to break off the rust that may be holding the pistons in place.

If the lube or manually spinning the flywheel isn’t getting the pistons to move, that’s the point at which you need to take it to a mechanic to examine possible engine damage caused by something other than rust. Click here for more information on how to determine if your motorcycle engine is impounded.

If you are trying to get a motorcycle to run, you may also be interested in a complete restoration of your motorcycle. I have an entire series of videos that can walk you through the step-by-step process of how to do this, including tips and tricks you won’t find anywhere else. This will show you everything from carburetor disassembly and rebuild to body work and electrical. Click here for more information if you are interested in building your dream bike!

What happens to a motorcycle if it stands still for too long

When you come across a motorcycle that has sat too long, you may notice some cosmetic issues. That being said, it’s difficult to see any other damage that might have been caused by his calm.

When you want to start a motorcycle that has been sitting for a while, it’s really helpful to know what happened to the motorcycle so you have a better idea of ​​how to start it.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong when a motorcycle is sitting, but some of the main things that do happen are a fading/peeling fuel tank, damaged gaskets and seals, a discharged battery, condensation and rust.

The sun’s constant ray is relentless on motorcycle fuel tanks. Once the UV rays eat through the clear coat, the paint underneath begins to fade. My article here tells you what other damage the sun can do to a motorcycle.

Gaskets and gaskets are very similar to rubber bands. The more you use it, the longer it will last. Motorcycling heats up and expands the gaskets and seals, ultimately making them last longer. Without this heat and expansion, the seals and gaskets become brittle and brittle.

Constant temperature fluctuations and parasitic discharge cause a motorcycle battery to discharge quickly. Once a battery loses that much voltage, it can no longer be charged to 100%.

Condensation and moisture that accumulate on a parked motorcycle are the most common and damaging factors. It causes rust and sometimes the rust becomes so severe that some parts need to be replaced entirely. There are many other things that can happen to a motorcycle when it is stationary. Click here to get more information.

How to store a motorcycle for the long term

After you’ve started and revived a stationary motorcycle, you probably never want to go through it again. Luckily, there are several measures you can take to prevent your motorcycle from reverting to such a condition.

A motorcycle needs to be started about once a month to keep its elements in check and burn off any condensation that may have crept inside.

If it’s not possible to ride or service your motorcycle every month, you need to properly prepare it for storage. Such steps include changing the oil, deflating the tires, and removing the battery or connecting or connecting a battery tender.

You also need to top up the gas and add a stabilizer to the gas to prevent the gas from gelling. Run the motorcycle for a few minutes to allow the stabilizer to pass through the entire fuel system of the motorcycle.

Last but not least, don’t forget to cover it well even if it’s parked in the garage or shed. The cover prevents a lot of moisture and condensation from getting in places where it shouldn’t be.

How long is too long to leave a motorcycle?

A motorcycle should never be left for more than a month without being started or properly prepared for storage. Aside from starting, a motorcycle should be ridden at least once every two months if not properly prepared for storage.

You may also wonder if there is ever a point where a motorcycle has just sat too long and is beyond repair. There really isn’t a solid answer to this as it all depends entirely on where the bike has been and what climate it has been in. It also depends a lot on how much time and money you’re willing to invest in it to get it settled.

I have restored over a dozen bikes and over half of these were bikes that had sat in a field for years. I’ve never seen a motorcycle that couldn’t be repaired.

Related question

Can you tow a motorcycle without a trailer? It is possible to tow a motorcycle without a trailer. In fact, it’s entirely possible to tow a motorcycle with a car. Such methods include using a tow truck or motorcycle rack that can be attached to a truck, SUV, or sedan. For more information I’ve written about this, click here.

One of the critical components to bringing your motorcycle to life is the starter relay. This component transfers electrical charge from the battery to the starter magnet to crank your starter motor.

While starter relay problems are not necessarily widespread, all mechanical parts eventually wear out.

Knowing how to fix a faulty starter relay could save you from one day being stuck on the side of the road scratching your head and wondering, did my starter relay go bad?

Here is the short answer to know when your motorcycle starter relay has gone bad:

If your motorcycle’s starter relay is faulty, your starter motor may click while you try to start the motorcycle, while in some cases the motorcycle will be completely silent. Disadvantageously, if the relay fails, your starter motor may continue to run after the moto starts.

How can you tell if a motorcycle starter relay is defective?

You can tell if your starter relay is defective by the fact that your motorcycle has problems starting, if it does not start at all, clicks or starts, but the starter motor continues to run.

However, many of these symptoms are also the symptoms of a faulty starter motor or a faulty solenoid.

Let’s move on to the troubleshooting process and break down the symptoms of a bad starter relay and look at the specifics.

1. Motorcycle will not start

The most important sign a starter relay is done for is that nothing happens when you try to start your motorcycle – no clicks, no cranks, no ticks; Nada.

Examine your running and instrument lights to make sure it’s the relay and not another component of the starting system. If your gauges are flashing brightly and your lights are ready to go, the relay could be the culprit.

If the bike doesn’t turn over no matter how many times you press the ignition switch, if you try multiple times and there is nothing, not even a click, it could mean you have a blown relay fuse on your hands.

If your starter clicks after a few turns, or your bike even starts, your relay may be dying but not quite dead yet. Regardless, a starter system diagnosis would be the next step to determine if it is indeed your relay causing the problem.

2. The starter motor keeps turning after the bike has started

We’ve mentioned another symptom of a failing starter relay a few times, when the starter keeps cranking after the bike starts and runs.

Here’s how the starter relay process works on a healthy bike:

When you push your starter button, your battery sends power through the relay and starter solenoid. The solenoid acts as an electromagnetic field, activating the starter motor to crank the flywheel. Once you release the starter button, the solenoid should deactivate and stop the starter motor activity. However, if your relay fails, the starter relay will continue to charge the solenoid; The starter will continue to fire on attempts to start the bike after it is already running.

This could be due to the relay being in contact with a component that is generating electrical energy or is being charged – the electricity keeps the relay’s current alive after the starter switch is released.

The problem could also be the solenoid not deactivating, requiring diagnosis of the starting system.

Regardless of which components are the culprits, a running starter can damage the starting system. Not to mention that an exposed wire creating the charge is dangerous on its own.

3. The starter clicks quickly but the bike never fires

If you hear your relay emit a rapid click fire but the bike won’t start, the starter motor may not be getting the juice it needs from the relay to crank your bike’s engine.

If your motorcycle’s starter relay clicks but is not conducting current to the starter motor:

Either your relay is too weak, worn out or damaged to overload the solenoid.

or the battery is not charged enough to activate the relay beyond a few clicks.

Whether your relay or battery is unable to activate the solenoid, it needs to be replaced immediately.

Low power starts can severely damage your starting system.

The cause of a clicking relay coil is corrosion on the relay itself, either from wear and tear, harsh weather conditions, or age.

If a corroded relay is your problem, clean the contact points according to your motorcycle manufacturer’s guidelines in the service manual to restore proper contact and increase current flow. In general, scrape off the corroded relay surface with a scraper or sandpaper.

If a relay corrodes past a certain point, or just gets old enough, it will start to degrade, meaning scraping it won’t solve the problem.

If cleaning the corrosion isn’t enough, or if you want a more permanent fix to the problem, replace the entire unit – we cover motorcycle starter relay repair below.

4. Motorcycle has intermittent starting problems

If your motorcycle has inconsistent starting patterns – if there is a secret trick to starting your motorcycle such as B. pressing the starter button over and over again until the bike starts – you may have a bad starter relay.

If you have to push your starter button multiple times to get the flywheel to spin your pistons to get the engine running, there are good signs that dirt, corrosion and overheating are interfering with your motorcycle starter relay.

Any contamination of the relay reduces the flow of electrical current, which in turn requires several current surges before the relay has enough charge to activate the electromagnetic action of the solenoid, cranking the starter motor and starting the engine.

Related: What Does a Solenoid Do on a Motorcycle? (Explained)

What Causes the Starter Relay to Go Bad?

Poor conductivity is the common cause of starter relay failure, often due to inclement weather, road debris, dirt and grime, or corrosion from various destructive driving or storage conditions.

In other situations, contacts will overheat and fuse, causing the starter relay to fail, as will a faulty bike circuit.

Finally, a starter relay can fail with age as all things erode over time, especially on a bike that’s bobbing and hitting the road full force.

At the end of the day, the starter relay is a fairly simple part of the ignition or starter system process; Simple components don’t often fail.

How do you isolate a faulty starter relay on a motorcycle?

Testing the starter relay circuit is the only way to diagnose that the starter relay is truly at fault. It shares symptoms with various other starter problems; a defective solenoid or starter motor; and electrical system failures such as a defective battery, defective stator or regulator/rectifier.

If you test the relay’s circuit, you’ll know for sure if the starter relay is the faulty component.

You can google the starter relay test for your specific motorcycle make and year to get some tips on locating the relay and performing the test. See the following section for general guidance.

However, you do need the right tools and a clean place to work – there’s no shame in having a trusted local bike shop do the test for you; It’s quick and easy for a pro.

Related: How to Tell if a Motorcycle Fuse is Blown (Explained)

How do you test a starter relay on a motorcycle?

As mentioned above, the starter relay is the component in your starting system that passes power from the battery to the starter motor. First locate your starter relay and inspect the relay for damage, then you can test the relay yourself with a continuity tester.

We’ll get into the basic test below; You must be familiar enough with a bike to know the names of the major components of the starting system, starting with the battery, as this is a general guide. Different motorcycles are laid out differently based on design priorities.

If you need more specific instructions than the general instructions we’ve provided here, it might be a good idea to get a service manual for your particular make and year model.

The service manual guides the use by the dealer’s technicians; It contains the exact configuration of your bike’s wiring harness, including the starter system.

Remember, if you don’t have the tools or space to perform the following procedures, or can’t find access to a service manual and are unsure of your working skills, any decent bike technician can do this test fairly fly cheap.

Step 1: Locate the starter relay and inspect your starter relay’s 30A fuse for signs of corrosion. Replace the fuse if it looks rough. Step 2: Connect the black jumper wire from the battery negative terminal to the green or red wire of the starter relay. Step 3: Attach the red jumper wire from the positive battery post to the yellow or red starter relay wire clip. You should hear a clicking sound; The clicking sound is the internal contact of the starter relay. If you don’t hear the clicking sound, the starter itself could be the problem. Let’s move on to some other tests to confirm that the problem is indeed your relay. Step 4: Disconnect the red jumper wire from the starter relay once you are done with the third step. Step 5: Connect the wires from your continuity tester to the battery terminal and the starter motor terminal of your starter relay. Read the labels to tell which is which. The relay battery should say “B” while the starter motor terminal should be marked with an “M”. Once the battery is connected, an electric current should flow continuously through the entire circuit. Step 6: Watch the gauge needle on the continuity tester to see if your flow is continuous. Note: If there was no clicking sound during step 3 and there is no continuity during step 6, you have a bad relay and there is no continuity when the battery is connected, the starter relay in your motorcycle is bad.

See also: Motorbike clicks instead of starting: 3 reasons (solved)

Can you fix a motorcycle starter relay?

A faulty motorcycle starter relay can be disassembled and cleaned or rebuilt if it fails due to dirt, debris, moisture or corrosion. However, if the relay fails due to age, wear, degradation, or high current contact, it must be replaced.

Replacing a lousy motorcycle starter relay is a quick and easy swap; We recommend replacing the faulty starter relay, whether it’s finally worn out or just a little rusted.

Since you have to uninstall and disassemble the relay to clean anyway; Why don’t you just throw a freshie on it once you’ve gotten the sucker off.

When a relay is rusted past the limit of recovery, or when it is old and worn out, it begins to fall apart; Grinding more with steel wool will not solve the problem.

With the right tools for the job, you can replace your starter relay right at home in 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the starter and battery placement on your make and model year motorcycle.

Model-specific installation instructions can be found online or in the service manual for your specific make and year model.

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What does a relay do?

Before we discuss how to tell if a relay is bad in a car, let’s cover the purpose of a relay. Relay switches are used to reduce the amount of electrical current that flows through a specific circuit in your car. A tremendous amount of current is required to operate some of the vehicle’s functions. So if you run everything through a switch without a relay, the switch can burn much faster.

Relays are used with headlights, car horns, power windows, air conditioning, and other functions that require an electrical circuit. They are designed to take the excess current, but they can also burn out after a while.

How do relays work?

A car relay works like a switch controlled by electrical energy. When you turn on something in your car that draws a lot of power, say your wipers, horn, or lights; Power is passed through the relay where two contacts close to power the accessory.

A typical automotive relay has two circuits – an excitation circuit with a coil and a contact circuit with a lever. To better understand how these work, let’s take a vehicle horn as an example.

A car horn is equipped with a four-pin relay. Two of the pins sit opposite each other and connect to the coil. The other two are connected to the horn with an open contact between them. Each pin has its own number to easily identify the power source.

When you press the horn button on your steering wheel, current flows through the two pins connected to the coil. This coil then creates an electromagnetic field that attracts a lever located along the contact circuit. The lever closes the contact point, allowing the current to reach and activate the horn.

How to tell if a relay in a car is defective

Step 1: Look for clicking noises

If one of your vehicle’s accessories isn’t working and you suspect the relay is faulty, you can perform a simple test to confirm your suspicions. Your relays are most likely located in an under hood fuse box. Consult your owner’s manual if you don’t know how to locate the relay in your car, truck or SUV.

Let’s take our horn example: if you have a horn that doesn’t make a sound when you press the button on your steering wheel, have someone press it while you put your finger on the relay. You want to feel and hear every click.

If you feel and hear clicking noises, the relay is working on one side – the side with the excitation circuit and coil. However, if there is no horn beep, then the relay has a problem in the contact circuit. It could be that there is no power on that side, or you may have a bad contact, a faulty fuse relay, a faulty horn, or a faulty ground connection.

On the other hand, if you didn’t feel or hear a click when you pressed the horn button, then the relay has a problem in its excitation circuit. It could be that there is no power to that circuit, or it could be a bad relay, a bad horn switch, a bad connection, or a bad ground.

Step 2: Replace relay

Another easy way to find out if your relay is faulty is to replace it with an identical one. You must first ensure that the numbers displayed on both relays match.

Second, the swap should be between the faulty relay and another working relay. You can check the circuit of the second relay to make sure it’s working. When it comes to the headlights, make sure the headlights work. If your horn or other vehicle accessory works with the second relay, you are now certain that there is a problem with the first.

Test to see if a relay is faulty in a car

The first two tests described above will help determine if a relay is defective without tools. Below are two alternative tests that you can run using reliable 1A Auto tools to confirm that your relay is indeed faulty.

Step 1. Relay tester

A relay tester is a tool used to test a relay’s electronics for electrical problems. It gives a signal to the coil along the excitation circuit and checks that the lever responds appropriately along the contact circuit.

All you have to do is connect the tester to your car’s battery, plug the relay into one of the tester’s configurations and press the TEST button. Remember to set whether you are testing a 4-pin relay or a 5-pin relay. The tester produces a green light if everything is ok and a red light if the relay is faulty.

Step 2: Relay Kit

The relay kit allows you to test both relay circuits for current using 4-pin and 5-pin adapters included in the kit. Each adapter has numbers that correspond to each pin on the relay itself. All you have to do is connect your relay to the appropriate adapter, insert the adapter where the relay sits in the fuse box, and test each of the pins for power and ground with a test light. When testing the power supply, the test light should come on. When testing for ground, you should hear the horn beeping.

Step 3: Wiring Harness with Fuse

If you are using a fused jumper harness, you must connect it where the relay pins connect in the fuse box. You can start testing the contact circuit. Remember that pins that are part of the same circuit are opposite each other. This usually happens diagonally.

If the contact circuit is not broken, you should hear the sound of the horn or see the non-working vehicle accessory turn on. This can be your wipers, air conditioning or headlights.

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As he said, it’s most likely your battery. However, if the hold coil on the starter solenoid has failed, it will do the same thing you just described. In this case you will need a new starter or you could try to overhaul your magneto. The starter is very easy to replace. First disconnect your battery. Don’t skip this step. Second, disconnect your wire from the starter and the green wire to your solenoid. Third, remove your primary cover (follow the step-by-step instructions in your manual)

Fourth, remove the balancer sprocket nut and clutch hub retaining ring. Your primary chain should now be slack after removing the primary cover.

Fifth, remove the two starter mounting screws, should be 5/16 allen head screws, and remove the starter.

You can test the battery by using a known good battery, connecting it positive to the copper post on the starter and the positive post on the battery and then negative to the starter case. I usually clip the jumper wire to the ear of the mounting screw. Then get a jumper wire, 18 gauge or larger and touch one end of the copper starter post (or the battery post (+) and the other side briefly touch the spade connector on the solenoid (where the green wire connects) and hold the starter in place ’cause it jumps. The starter either pushes the jack shaft out and spins (then the starter is fine) or the jack shaft clicks in and out quickly and then you know it’s the solenoid being held in the spool.

But it’s probably just the battery.