Have To Turn Key Multiple Times To Start Car? Top Answer Update

7 symptoms of a bad starter

If the starter in your car breaks down, you are “dead in the water”, so to speak. You have nowhere to go if the starter stops working. It can seem like it happened suddenly and without warning. But guess what? There are seven symptoms that can indicate you have a bad starter or one that is failing. By being aware of these signs, you may be able to avoid being stranded. Your trusted automotive professionals at Reliable Import Service are experienced in diagnosing and fixing a bad starter problem. Come see us if you notice any of these seven symptoms of a bad starter.

What is a starter?

The starter consists of these two main parts: the primary motor, which rotates the crankshaft and starts the engine, and the solenoid (the relay), which simultaneously engages the starter drive gear and closes the electrical contacts of the main motor. The starter in a car is powered by the battery. The starter is used to start the engine and get the car running. The starter relay, located between the battery and the starter motor, transmits power. If either the starter relay or the engine stops working, you won’t be able to move the car without jump starting or towing.

Which causes a starter to go bad

A starting system problem can be caused by either poor maintenance or normal wear and tear. As you can imagine, a starter will wear out a lot during its lifetime, so problems are common over time. Newer stop/start technology in automobiles puts more strain on starters and batteries.

Common Symptoms

Most often, starters and relays do not fail without prior signs. However, that can also happen. Still, look for these seven symptoms that show your starter is going bad.

#1: The motor does not turn

The most common indicator of a problem with your starter is that nothing happens when you turn the key or press start. The likely cause is that the starter relay or engine has burned out, or that there is an electrical problem. However, note that the problem can also be caused by a dead battery. If you experience this symptom, you need to contact an experienced mechanic to check the starter, ignition system and other electrical components as it can be a sign of multiple problems.

#2: Noise – Clicks, crunches, or whirrs

If you hear a noise you haven’t heard before when you turn the key or press start, pay attention. Any clicking, grinding, or whirring noise can indicate the starter’s impending death. When the starter components are worn or not engaging properly, there is often a grinding noise similar to what you hear when you accidentally press the ignition switch again after the engine has started. Ignoring the grinding symptom can also damage the engine flywheel.

#3: Intermittent problems starting the vehicle

If you try to start your car and the engine doesn’t fire right away, then you try again and it works fine, you most likely have a starter relay problem. The starter relay either sends full current or nothing to the starter. It’s an all-or-nothing feature. Sometimes a damaged relay can cause the starter to make a clicking noise when turning the ignition. So if you experience both intermittent starting and a clicking noise, take your vehicle to an experienced mechanic.

#4: Starter stays on after launch

The starting circuit should close after the engine is started and then either the key is released or the start button is released. If you hear a continuous grinding noise from under the vehicle after the engine runs and runs, the starter relay may be stuck. In this case, the relay keeps running as if you were trying to start the car. The starter relay is stuck when welded. You must address this issue immediately. If the problem persists, the relay will get stuck in the “on” position, ultimately causing severe damage to the entire starter system and transmission flywheel.

#5: Smoking

The starter is mechanical and is electrically operated. If your car won’t start and you keep trying to start it, you can overheat the system. If the starter overheats due to the continued power supply, you will see or smell smoke rising from under the engine. Possible causes could be a short circuit, a blown fuse, or a problem with the ignition switch. Regardless, you should contact a certified mechanic as soon as you notice this situation.

#6: Starter engages but engine won’t start

You can turn the ignition switch or press start and hear the starter engage, but the engine won’t crank. Sometimes the problem with the starter is mechanical. In this case, a gear connected to the flywheel has slipped or been displaced against the flywheel. Anyway, the engine won’t start. In this case, you must have the starter replaced by a certified mechanic.

#7: Battery

You may have lights on your dash and your headlights are working so you think there is power to the starting system but the engine is not cranking. This can actually be a problem with your battery as it takes a lot of power to start your engine. Try a jumper or starter pack. If it starts, this indicates that a low battery is the cause of the problem. Often, especially in the winter months, starting problems have to do with the battery.

Give us a call!

Our team of professional technicians perform scheduled vehicle maintenance and repairs that can save you from being stranded! If you notice any of these 7 symptoms of a bad starter, join us at Reliable Imports. Call us today at 919-324-3019 to schedule an appointment.

Jerry works with some of the companies we write about. However, our content is written and reviewed by an independent team of editors and licensed insurance agents and is never influenced by our partnerships. Learn more about how we make money, view our editorial standards, refer to our data methodology, or view a list of our partners

If your car has trouble starting but runs fine, there is most likely a problem with your car’s battery or alternator. Therefore, it is important to quickly identify the exact problem. If you are sure that the battery and alternator are good, this could indicate other engine problems.

We’ve all been there: you get in your car, turn the key… and nothing. Maybe you try again and it will come to life. Or maybe it takes a few hectic switches back and forth before your car decides to start. But then it’s fine, so you drive off and forget it – until next time.

battery or alternator. But how do you even know what’s wrong? If your car has trouble starting but runs fine, this usually indicates a problem with your car. But how do you even know what’s wrong?

Jerry, the super app that helps you save on car insurance, can help you with that. In this article, we cover the typical problems you encounter with your car’s battery and alternator, some solutions to address them, and what you can do to get your car starting and running like new.

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car battery

Your car battery is located under the hood of your vehicle and is the main power source for your car’s electrical components. The battery helps power your vehicle, including the lights on your dashboard, as well as your radio, power windows, and other vital functions.

It also sends voltage to your car’s starter motor – which is why the battery is the first thing to worry about if your car is having trouble starting.

If you think a bad battery is to blame for your car troubles, here are a few things to look out for:

Fast click

If you turn your key and hear a rapid click in response, it could mean your car battery isn’t having the power to crank the engine. You should check the output voltage levels (which is easy to do with a voltmeter).

If the baseline is below 12, you need a mechanic to take a second look.

draining of battery power

The clicking can also indicate that your battery is experiencing a loss of energy. Battery discharge occurs when an excessive amount of current is drained after your car’s engine is turned off (e.g. when the car’s lights do not turn off properly).

To fix parasitic power consumption, you need to swap your battery’s leads, which requires at least a little DIY car repair experience.

battery corrosion

The clicking sound can also be a sign of a corroded battery post. To check for corrosion, you should examine your battery for green or blue deposits (they probably look dirty) that could affect the power transfer from your battery to other components in your engine.

Loose battery cables

Loose battery cables or frayed cables can also prevent or interfere with starting your car and be accompanied by a clicking noise. If this is the problem, consider replacing the battery cables.

Low electrolyte levels

Battery electrolyte is the liquid substance used to power your battery – it’s like car battery acid. If the electrolyte level is low, the battery is not working well and needs to be charged.

In some cases you may need to replace the battery – a quick fix at most garages.

Swollen battery case

Fluctuating weather conditions can cause your battery case to swell and warp, reducing your battery’s output voltage. Once your battery becomes bloated, it will no longer function properly – you will need to replace it.

Sulphurous smell

If you smell sulfur in your car, it could be an indication that your battery is losing fluid. Fluid leaks can damage other components in your car’s engine and affect your car’s ability to start. Therefore, it is necessary to replace the battery immediately to fix the problem.

Dead or dying battery

Sometimes car batteries just run out of juice. An easy way to tell if your battery has timed out is if your key fob has stopped working. Jump starting your vehicle is a simple (albeit temporary) solution to a dead car battery. Eventually you’ll want to have it replaced.

MORE: Start your dead car battery back to life

car alternator

Your car’s alternator is connected to the engine and helps keep your battery charged. A damaged alternator can cost you over $1,000 or more in bills if left unfixed, and can also damage your car’s battery.

Common symptoms of a defective car alternator are:

Loud noises

Loud rumbling or grinding noises are an indicator of a defective alternator. In particular, your alternator belt or pulley system may be defective. You’ll need to replace these components to fix the problem, but if the noise persists, you’ll need a whole new alternator to get your car running smoothly again.

starting the engine

If it sounds like your engine is cranking too slowly, it could be your alternator.

Flickering lights

If your headlights seem to flicker or aren’t as bright when idling, your alternator is probably to blame. The lights on your dashboard may also be dimmed at this time; To solve the problem, you should check your alternator drive belt. It could also be a problem with a corroded battery post or loose battery cables.

voltage leaks

Like your battery, your alternator can leak. Lower voltage levels make it harder for your car to start driving. To check your alternator voltage levels, you can use a voltmeter.

battery light

If your car’s battery light on the dashboard comes on (and stays on) after you start your car, it means there is an alternator problem. You’ll know it’s the battery light because it’s shaped exactly like a car battery!

Stuck or defective ignition switch

The ignition switch is the part of your electrical switch that turns the engine. If it is stuck, damaged or fails, you will find that all electric powered car accessories will not turn on. If the ignition switch is to blame, you’ll need a mechanic’s help to troubleshoot the issue.

Other common problems

So you’ve checked your battery and alternator, and everything is fine. But your car still has trouble starting. What else could be the problem?

Starter: Clicking noises can also directly indicate problems with your car’s starter. If your car’s electrically operated components (like power windows, radio, etc.) are still working properly but the car won’t start or is having trouble starting, your starter motor is the problem.

Clogged Fuel Filter: Your car’s fuel filter helps keep the gasoline you use to power your vehicle clean and free-flowing. Occasionally the filter will become clogged with excess debris (dirt, particulates, rust) from your fuel and will need to be replaced.

Faulty Fuel Pump/Frozen Fuel Lines: A faulty fuel pump or frozen lines can prevent fuel from circulating through your engine and your car from starting. Luckily, replacing a fuel pump is cheap, and you can easily thaw fuel lines with some additive.

Oil is too thick/dirty: If you’re overdue for an oil change, thick or dirty oil could be the culprit! Try changing the oil and replacing the filter to fix the problem.

Spark Plugs Need Replacing: Spark plugs play an important role in igniting the fuel and getting your engine running. They need to be replaced about every 100,000.

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frequently asked Questions

A car has never broken down at the “right time”. Whether you’re in a car that won’t start or preparing for the future, this list can help you figure out what’s wrong with your car. Take a look at these 6 most common reasons why you can’t tell if any of these symptoms match your car’s problem.

Warning: If your car won’t start, avoid turning the key for long periods of time. In cold weather it seems to work if you try to crank the engine for a while, but if you try to crank the starter for more than 15 seconds you can damage the starter.

If you turn the key and the engine does not start:

Most likely you have an electrical problem.

Dead battery

Your battery could be dead for a number of reasons. This is the most common reason for a car’s death and therefore the best reason to leave jumper cables in your car. Once you jump start your car, the alternator should charge the battery as long as the car is running.

If this problem occurs frequently, you may be able to fix the problem by removing corrosion that has built up around the battery posts. If this does not solve the problem, you will need to replace the battery.

Problems with the starter motor

If you can locate the starter under the hood of your car, you can check if it is the source of the problem. If you don’t hear a click when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear a click but the engine won’t start, the starter motor may not be getting enough power.

With your owner’s manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.

Defective or damaged ignition

Similar to the starter motor, a broken or damaged ignition switch can prevent your car from starting. If your headlights turn on but your car won’t start, it means your battery is charged but either the starter or the ignition is the problem.

If the starter or ignition is the problem, a starter motor can be bypassed with a charged battery.

If the engine starts but the car does not start:

When an engine cranks but won’t start, you know your electrical system is fine. In order for the car to start properly, it needs a few ingredients: spark, air, fuel and compression.

Fuel:

If you suspect the problem is fuel related, there are a few solutions. If the weather is cold enough, your fuel line may have frozen and would need to be thawed. Two other common solutions are:

Gas tank is empty

Even if your gas tank doesn’t indicate that the tank is empty, this could still be the problem. An improperly calibrated fuel gauge can cause you to run out of gas.

Fuel filter needs to be replaced

Check your owner’s manual for how often or how long ago your fuel filter should have been changed. A clogged fuel filter prevents gas from reaching the engine. If you frequently run your car dry, your fuel filter could look a lot worse.

no spark

If your car cranks but won’t start, you may not be getting spark. A spark is used to ignite the fuel so the car can start. It is possible to check for a spark yourself, but this is probably beyond the ability of the average driver and should be left to a mechanic.

If you are having trouble starting your car, H&H Mobil can take your car to the shop and perform a full diagnosis to determine if one or more of these reasons are causing problems with your vehicle.

If any of the above reasons are preventing your car from starting, contact H&H Mobil today to have a professional look at your car and get you back on the road safely as soon as possible.

Before you call a tow truck, try some of these tips to get your car running.

Most people don’t have mechanic’s tools in their trunk. When your car won’t start and you get stuck with a dead engine, you feel pretty helpless. But don’t give up if your car won’t start. We’ve compiled a list of tricks you can try if your car won’t start, and none of them require tools. They’re ranked by symptom, and you have nothing to lose by trying them when the car cranks but won’t start. Of course, they won’t fix the root problem, but one of them might start the engine so you can go to the nearest mechanic to have the problem fixed. Here are some things to try if your car won’t turn.

When the car clicks when trying to start

If the car clicks when you try to start it but still won’t start, the problem could be a weak battery, dirty battery terminals, a worn starter motor, or a stuck solenoid. If you might just need a jump starter, there are a few tricks you need to try before you bust out the jumper cables or electric jump starters.

Try cycling the key

If your car turns on but won’t start, turn on the dome light and watch while trying to start the engine. If the light goes out, that’s a sign the battery is really low – almost dead. To heat up the battery, terminals and starter, try the key wheel trick. The trick is to turn the key to the start position about 10 times in a row. Stop and wait five minutes. Then try to start the engine. But if the dome light stayed bright when you turned the key, move on to the next trick if your car won’t start.

Try tapping the battery posts

There’s no way to clean corroded battery posts when you’re stranded without tools. However, you can try to move the connectors, or at least shake them enough to make better contact. If the car won’t start, hit each battery post with the heel of a shoe to rotate it slightly around the battery post. Then try to start the engine.

Handyman family

Try tapping the launcher

If you have access to the starter, try hitting it with your jack’s tire lever. Sometimes the electrical contacts get stuck and can be released with a tap.

If there is no click when turning the key

Try moving the shifter

With your foot on the brake, place the shift lever in neutral and attempt to start the engine. If that doesn’t work, slide it back to the park position and try again. Moving the shift lever sometimes restores electrical contact in the transmission range selector (aka the neutral safety switch).

Handyman family

When the engine cranks but won’t start

Here are a few tricks you can try when the engine starts but the car won’t start.

Try swapping relays

With the radio off, turn the key to the run position and listen for a two second buzz. This is the fuel pump that sucks the injection system. If you don’t hear a sound, the fuel pump relay may be faulty or the pump is on its last breath.

First, find the location of the fuel pump relay in your owner’s manual or on the legend for the underhood fuse box cover. Pull the fuel pump relay straight up. Then find another relay with the same part number and swap it with the fuel pump. Plug it straight into the outlet. After that, try to start the engine.

Handyman family

Try to hit the fuel tank

If your car won’t start, bang the heel of your shoe on the bottom of the fuel tank several times to shake the fuel pump motor. Then try to start the vehicle.

Handyman family

Attempt to bleed a flooded engine

If you smell gas, the engine is flooded. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there while cranking the engine.

Try to trick the computer

A vacuum leak or a faulty temperature sensor can result in an air/fuel mixture that is too lean to start a cold engine. If you’ve tried all the other tricks shown here and your car won’t start, press the accelerator pedal halfway and try to start the engine. This tells the computer to add more fuel.

It looks like you’re in the right area. Temporarily replacing the ignition switch that helps you start the car leads me to believe your ignition lock cylinder may be worn out. The lock cylinder – and the key – wears out over time simply by inserting and removing the key.

If you mentioned that it would work after “pushing the key to the wheel and wiggling it”, this seems to indicate that by that wiggling you are moving the internals of the ignition lock cylinder enough for these worn components to make proper contact in the ignition lock. New ignition lock cylinders usually come with a new key. This can solve the problem.

However, I would suggest having this done by a qualified technician e.g. B. one from Vermin-Club, to narrow down the variables. You can diagnose your difficult boot issue and fix it accordingly.

Dear Autotalk:

How much damage is done to the starter and other parts if you accidentally try to start the car when it’s already running? — Joe

How often do you do that, Joe? Is this a daily event? If so, I recommend you check out Miracle Ear.

In fact, it is rarely the starter that is damaged. It’s more often the flywheel – that’s the larger gear that the starter gear meshes with.

They’re both pretty tough, and accidentally starting the car once it’s running in a blue moon probably won’t do any harm. However, if it’s done repeatedly, you can wear out or break off a tooth on the flywheel.

And if you have a flat spot on the flywheel where a tooth or two is missing, the starter gear spins but can’t spin the flywheel, which moves the pistons up and down and starts the car.

Even when this happens, by trying to start several times, you can often move the flywheel just enough to get it to the next tooth and grab the starter.

But at some point the car won’t start anymore – or so unreliably that you can’t stand it anymore. Then you have to replace the flywheel.

Replacing the flywheel usually involves removing the engine, transmission, or both. That’s why we mechanics refer to that horrid crunch as “the sound of money.” So it’s best not to make a habit of restarting a running car.

Incidentally, many of the newer cars with “start/stop” buttons instead of key ignition switches won’t even let you restart the car if it’s already running. They are intelligent enough to know when the engine is already running. So if you press the button a second time, the car will assume you’ve changed your mind about going to work and turn off the engine.

So we expect fewer flywheels to be replaced over the years. This is good for you and bad for us. We will all switch to smaller boats.