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Table of Contents
What thread should I use for top stitching?
Use topstitch thread as your spool only (on top of your machine), with regular thread that matches your fabric in the bobbin. Lengthen the stitches to 3 or 3.5mm to create a straighter-looking line. Press well before topstitching to flatten out the seams.
Is Top stitch thread strong?
Gutermann Top Stitch thread is a strong, heavy, polyester thread with a high lustre, ideal for bold, decorative sewing, eye button-holes and button sewing, backstitch seams.
What weight is top stitching thread?
If you want to do some hand stitching or heavy topstitching then a 12 wt. – 18 wt. thread will be your best choice. The 12 wt.
What type of thread is heavy duty?
As the name says, heavy duty thread is designed to withstand high tension and wear and it’s generally thicker than regular all purpose thread. It can be cotton, polyester, a combination of the two, or even nylon.
Why does my top stitch look like a straight line?
1. Check that the machine is threaded correctly. The upper thread appears as a straight line on the right side of the fabric.
Sewing thread types and uses
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How do I improve my top stitch?
- The Tools You Use Make All the Difference. …
- Fabrics with body work best. …
- Choose a needle based on fabric and thread type. …
- Select thread with visibility in mind.
- Experiment with stitches and stitch settings. …
- Try out different presser feet. …
- Edgestitching.
- Find the correct tension.
Sewing thread types and uses
Topstitching is defined as one or more rows of stitches visible from the right side of the garment. Both decorative and practical, this simple stitch has many uses. It holds layers of fabric in place, such as seam allowances (this is often done with rows of straight stitches sewn on each side of the seam), facings (e.g. at the neckline), hems, collars, lapels, cuffs, pocket patches, etc Top-stitching adds texture and definition – similar to quilting – and provides decorative effects based on thread, stitch and placement options. Edge stitching is also top-stitching, typically sewn 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch from the edge.
With a little practice and the right tools, I’ll show you how to achieve stunning quilting results.
The tools you use make the difference
Use these tools and sewing tips to create really fine topstitching.
Body fabrics work best
Choose your fabric considering the quilting. Bodied fabrics are easier to sew accurately. However, other fabrics with appropriate stabilization and a simple stitch can also be used.
Use Starch or Stabilizer to add body. If necessary (for most fabrics), use spray starch to make otherwise difficult-to-sew fabrics a breeze. You can also use an interlining or removable stabilizer under difficult-to-sew areas. I often use one or more layers of lightweight, tear-away fleece.
Take the time to gently press before you begin. First press the seam while it is still closed. This is called setting the seam. Then press open the seam allowances and finally press them in the final desired direction.
Choose a needle based on the fabric and thread type
Always use a new needle for topstitching to avoid skipped or pulled stitches.
Universal needles, the most commonly used, are sufficient for many applications.
, the most commonly used, are sufficient for many applications. Sharp, pointed needles such as Microtex or Topstitch make the most precise stitches and should only be used on woven fabrics. They are unsuitable for knitwear as they leave holes or snag the material.
, such as Microtex or Topstitching, make the most accurate stitches and should only be used on woven fabrics. They are unsuitable for knitwear as they leave holes or snag the material. Quilting needles have a long eye to accommodate thicker threads.
have a long eye to accommodate thicker threads. Embroidery needles have a wider eye to accommodate decorative threads and can be used for woven fabrics and most knits.
have a wider eye to accommodate decorative threads and can be used on woven fabrics and most knits. Stretch/jersey ballpoint needles are for knitwear.
are for knits. Denim needles are designed to penetrate very thick woven materials.
are designed to penetrate very thick woven materials. Twin/twin needles create two parallel rows of stitches on the right side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side. This needle is especially good for hemming knitwear.
Choose the thread considering the visibility
Choose your thread based on the type of fabric and your finished look you want.
Choose thread color and weight based on visibility. For a subtle look, choose a medium to light weight thread in the same color as the fabric or a shade darker. For more visibility, choose a heavier thread (but not too heavy for the weight of the fabric) and a contrasting color. Tip: For clearer stitches, two normal threads can be passed through the eye of the needle. This may require a larger eyed needle such as B. an embroidery or quilting needle.
Choose thread fiber content based on fabric. In knitwear, polyester thread provides stretch and strength. For woven fabrics, use any thread fiber that can withstand the intended use and care for the project. For example, polyester thread is stronger and more durable than cotton or rayon. Use it for projects that will be heavily used and washed.
Add a cord for more visibility, color and texture. A zigzag stitch lays the cord on the fabric. Use fine thread in the needle and bobbin and pearl yarn for the cord.
Experiment with stitches and stitch settings
Stitch type dramatically changes the appearance of topstitching.
straight stitch. Use a longer stitch length than for sewing, especially with thicker fabrics or threads. Longer stitches lie smoother and are more visible.
Use a longer stitch length than for sewing, especially with thicker fabrics or threads. Longer stitches lie smoother and are more visible. triple stitch. A triple stitch gives a heavier look without a thicker thread. This can also be created with a zero width feather stitch.
A triple stitch gives a heavier look without a thicker thread. This can also be created with a zero width feather stitch. decorative stitches. Decorative stitches can make beautiful topstitching; However, avoid dense stitches when using thicker thread.
Try different presser feet
The type of sewing foot can also change the appearance of your seam.
Presser feet with fixed or adjustable vertical guides help with accuracy. An edge stitching foot (also known as an edge joining or stitching foot) has a center guide. When using these feet, shift the needle position to place the stitching in the correct place.
A straight stitch foot with an opening for a single needle hole and a flat bottom contributes to better stitch quality. However, this foot can only be used for a straight stitch in the center needle position. Therefore, you cannot use the needle position to set the spacing between rows of stitches. A 1⁄4 inch or patchwork foot has a guide on the right for added precision.
edge seams
Find the right tension
Before topstitching, test the stitching on a piece of scrap fabric with the same number of layers as your project and using all the same elements – needle, thread, batting and stitch type.
Don’t be afraid to adjust the top tension for different effects. Change the tension setting to a slightly lower number to loosen (relax) the top part of the stitch, which along with adding stabilizer will reduce gathering. (Note: “L” for lower means looser.) A slightly higher number creates more tension on the upper thread and makes it tighter.
Perfect your technique
Use these helpful sewing tips for effortless topstitching.
For collar and cuffs, trim seam allowances to 1⁄8 inch. Topstitch just beyond the seam allowance from the right side. This reduces the volume and allows the material to be laid smoothly.
Sew right side up so the needle thread is showing. So you can see exactly what will be visible when embroidering. If possible, sew several rows in the same direction. This prevents puckering and puckering between the rows of seams.
Sew at a slow to medium, steady speed. Do not “pump” the foot pedal. Sewing too fast can result in irregular seams.
Spot stabilize any difficult areas such as the beginning, end and corners, especially if the entire area is not well stabilized. I keep small scraps of lightweight tearaway stabilizer on hand to place under any area where it can help the feed dogs move the fabric.
Watch the fabric at the guide instead of watching the needle. For easy precision, use a guide on the foot or machine bed whenever possible. Then, especially with a straight stitch, change the needle position to sew the exact desired distance from the guide.
Stop with the needle down as you sew. The needle holds the fabric, prevents slipping and ensures even seams.
Pull any thread ends that are not hidden in a seam to the wrong side of the fabric at the beginning and end of the seam. Using a hand needle, pass the thread 1⁄2 inch through the next seam and clip the tail.
If you want to achieve a raised effect with the twin needle, e.g. B. a tuck, use a presser foot with a grooved sole. For flat, smooth 2-needle topstitching, use a flat-soled sewing foot and loosen the upper tension if necessary.
by Carol Ahles
from thread #162, p. 70
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What is the thickest sewing thread?
V-69 is the heaviest commercial size recommended for home sewing machines. Heavier threads make your stitching more visible. The thread size measures the thread’s thickness.
Sewing thread types and uses
Commercial sizes are used for heavy-duty threads for sewing heavy upholstery, fabric, or webbing. Commercial sizes are specified sizes of 30, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415, and 554. They are the denier of the yarn divided by 10. Commercial sizes are standard for marine grade yarn (You can see commercial sizes on the Sailrite website for our outdoor thread).
Here’s a helpful chart showing how the different sizing methods compare:
What is the thickest thread you can use on a sewing machine?
Note: V 69 is the heaviest thread that will fit into a home sewing machine and is usually used for Boat Canvas. V 46 is a little lighter. IF YOU HAVE AN EVEN FEED FOOT, ROLLER FOOT OR TEFLON FOOT INSTALL IT.
Sewing thread types and uses
SEE MACHINE MAINTENANCE SECTION
REFER TO ADJUSTING VOLTAGES SECTION. CLEAN COIL AREA – (FLOODLESS) MACHINE OIL (as directed in your machine’s instruction manual)
MAKE SURE THE THREAD TENSION IS GOOD WITH A THREAD AND FABRIC YOU USUALLY USE. INSERT A SIZE 18 JEANS NEEDLE (the best needle for heavy fabrics) LOAD A BOBBIN WITH V 69 OR V 46 THREAD AND INSERT INTO YOUR MACHINE AS USUAL. THREAD YOUR MACHINE WITH THE HEAVY DUTY THREAD AS SPECIFIED IN YOUR MANUAL. Note: V 69 is the heaviest thread that will fit in a home sewing machine and is typically used for boat lines. V 46 is slightly lighter.
IF YOU HAVE AN EVEN TRANSPORT FOOT, INSTALL THE ROLLER FOOT OR THE TEFLOF FOOT. With one of these feet, the fabric slips less.
Usually any foot will work if you don’t have any of the above.
Adjust your stitch length to a wider stitch. I usually set it to a stitch the length of a booklet. PLACE A PIECE OF FABRIC YOU WANT TO WORK WITH UNDER THE PRESSER FOOT. CHANGE THE STITCH LENGTH TO THE LONGEST STITCH ON YOUR MACHINE. MAKE YOUR STITCH BY TURNING THE WHEEL MANUALLY. IF YOU FIND RESISTANCE, STOP AND APPLY YOUR HIGH VOLTAGE CONTINUE TO APPLY THE HIGH VOLTAGE UNTIL YOU DO NOT TEAR RESISTANCE. THEN MAKE FIVE TO SIX STITCHES MANUALLY AND REMOVE THEM FROM THE MACHINE AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE. (Your machine manual will usually tell you what a well-balanced stitch should look like.) IF STILL NOT BALANCED, TRY TIGHTENING OR RELEASING THE TOP TENSION. Most often it needs to be tightened slightly.
Often the best stitches a home machine will have is a nice stitch at the top and a slight loop at the bottom. Check that the stitch holds a seam well. If this is the case, it still works to sew heavier fabrics. I try to make all my adjustments by just changing the upper thread tension and leaving the bobbin tension alone. I have three different home sewing machines and all of them need to be tensioned with thicker thread. On two of the machines, I tighten the top tension all the way, on the other machine, which has self-adjusting tension, I tighten less.
Is polyester thread stronger than nylon thread?
Nylon Thread
It is also a bit stronger than polyester and resists abrasion better than any other fiber. As a result, nylon thread is great for use on products that are subject to abrasion including shoes, bags, boots, furniture, footballs, saddles, etc.
Sewing thread types and uses
nylon thread
Nylon thread has the best sewability. It is also slightly stronger than polyester and resists abrasion better than any other fiber. As a result, nylon thread is excellent for use on products subject to abrasion including shoes, bags, boots, furniture, footballs, saddles, etc.
polyester thread
In general, polyester thread has better UV resistance than nylon, which is why it is more likely to be used for outdoor applications such as tents, awnings, patio furniture, boat covers, and other products that are likely to be exposed to long-term outdoor exposure.
At Weaver Leather, we only use nylon thread because of its excellent sewability. Anything that causes sewing problems is expensive and one area you don’t want to skimp on is thread. Poor quality yarn could cost you more in the long run than you save. Before your next project, evaluate the benefits of each thread type to make an informed decision that will impact the life of your product.
Which is thicker 40 wt or 50 wt thread?
When discussing weight of thread, the smaller the number, the thicker the thread. The weight is determined by how many meters of thread it takes for a skein to weigh one kilogram. In this case, the 40 wt thread is slightly thicker (heavier) than the 50 wt thread.
Sewing thread types and uses
When I first started quilting, I learned about Aurifil yarn from a quilting podcast. The speaker praised it as “the best yarn for everything” and as a quilt newbie excited to learn all the tools and ideas of my new hobby, I immediately saved up and bought my first box of small 50w spools. I used it on my very first “real” quilt using designer fabric and free motion quilting and I was definitely impressed with how well it sewed and how bright and shiny the colors were on the spools and my quilt. Shortly thereafter, I had my first opportunity to work with Aurifil on a charity project and have been an avid fan ever since.
Over the years I’ve had more and more opportunities to work with Aurifil, one of the more recent ones, including becoming an Aurifilosopher (Aurifil thread trainer; click here to book a virtual Aurifilosophy lecture for your guild!). As this is part of our relationship I have had the opportunity to learn about and use the entire line of Aurifil yarn (so much wow!). As a free motion quilting instructor working on the Color Builders 2021 project, with 40wt I’m diving deep in a way I’ve never done before and I LOVE it! So, let’s get down to business, shall we?
What is 60 weight thread used for?
Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming. They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end.
Sewing thread types and uses
1. Medium weight threads
These are the types of threads you will find most commonly, mostly 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, serger and all purpose sewing projects.
What is 12 weight thread used for?
Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.
Sewing thread types and uses
If you find that the thread breaks, this can have various causes. One reason could be that the needle is too small. An eye that is too small or a needle shaft that is not thick enough causes a lot of friction on the thread, which can lead to shreds and breakage.
A needle that is too small can also cause the thread to ball up and turn into a bird’s nest.
Another reason for thread breakage could simply be that you are sewing too fast. Slow down the speed on your machine. This also gives the thread a chance to lay smoothly into the stitches. Slowing down is especially important for decorative stitches due to thread density.
Your upper tension may also be too tight or too loose. If this happens, it can cause the thread to break and cause the bobbin to pull up through the fabric or the upper thread to pull under the fabric. Play with your top tension settings on a scrap of fabric until you find the ideal setting for your machine.
Keep in mind that not all of these problems will occur when sewing with 12wt sewing thread. Because every machine is different, you will find that in most cases the thread will sew beautifully with minimal adjustments. This is just a comprehensive list of everything that could happen and how to solve them if they do.
What types of 12WT threads are there?
12wt threads can be used for all kinds of beautiful, strong stitching. It’s perfect for adding texture effects, as you can see in this thread painting made with a 12wt Egyptian cotton called Spagetti™. Cotton gives you a beautiful matte finish paired with the natural look and texture of cotton. Because we used the heavier 12wt yarn, you can see the yarn stand out against the fabric, making it ideal for eye-catching designs that you can touch.
What is the strongest thread to use?
The strongest sewing thread today is the Kevlar thread. Fire retardancy, ballistic resistance, and the ability to withstand heat up to 800°F (426°C) are the capabilities kevlar thread has. This thread is used by the military, first responders, and other consumers who need a heavy-duty product.
Sewing thread types and uses
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Whenever you sew for your business or home use, you want to make sure you have the best thread for your items. You don’t want your shirt to unravel from poor sewing thread choices, do you? Finding the strongest and most appropriate thread for your projects can prevent disaster.
The strongest sewing thread today is Kevlar thread. Fire retardancy, ballistic resistance and the ability to withstand heat up to 800°F (426°C) are the capabilities that Kevlar thread has. This thread is used by the military, first responders and other consumers who need a high performance product.
Before you buy the Kevlar cord automatically, you should learn it and compare it with other cords. I’ll tell you what strengths the individual threads have and what and how they are used. Later, you’ll also learn what 40WT means and other sewing facts.
What is Kevlar thread?
Kevlar threads are used in the manufacture of high performance items, first responder gear and clothing. It is 2.5x stronger than nylon and polyester yarn.
Kevlar threads add strength, durability and don’t sacrifice comfort. Dupont is trusted by the US military, firefighters and even customers who use their products.
With heat resistance and incredible tensile strength, Kevlar is stronger than steel and aids in ballistic resistance. These are just a few advantages of this fantastic thread. But how does it compare to other threads?
Can Kevlar thread be used for sewing?
Anyone can use Kevlar thread for sewing. This thread is great for everyday items like string, Goodyear tires and some awesome animal toys. There are no restrictions on what this thread can create.
How thick is the Kevlar thread in a sewing machine?
The average thickness for Kevlar thread is 1.14mm (0.04 inch). It can go up to a size 69 in personal sewing machines, making it perfect for projects at home. This thread can even be hand stitched if you need more detailed stitching.
Table of sewing thread sizes
You need to know if your thread is strong enough before working on your project. Therefore, it is important to determine the fabric size, gauge and metric size, as well as the appropriate needle size. Below are the types of threads and their measurements.
thread types
Size Tex Gauge (lb) Diameter Needle Size 15 16 2.11 (0.95 kg) 0.0047 10-12 30 30 3.7 (1.67 kg) 0.0070 12-14 46 45 7.09 (3, 21kg) .0080 14-16 69 70 10.13 (4.59kg) .0107 16-18
A polyester thread is used for most outdoor projects such as tents, tarps, outdoor cushions and even boat covers. It has better UV resistance than other yarns and low shrinkage.
Polyester is resistant to mildew, weathering and abrasion damage. The thread is more suitable for outdoor creations, such as B. the creation of tents.
However, if the polyester thread is not UV-treated, it will lose its strength after a certain period of time. For outdoor projects it is better to use UV treated yarn.
Size Tex Gauge (lb) Diameter Needle Size 15 16 2.22 (1kg) .0059 10-12 30 30 4.88 (2.21kg) .0080 12-14 46 45 7.4 (3.35kg ) 0.0094 14-16 69 70 11.31 (5.13kg) 0.0115 16-18
Nylon thread helps in making furniture, backpacks, leatherwork, purses and more. With its versatility, strength to size ratio and durability compared to other threads. This thread makes it the perfect line for heavy projects.
Nylon is resistant to aging and mold. It makes nylon perfect for car seats and other car upholstery. Nylon is also somewhat weather resistant. However, polyester can withstand rain and variable weather.
However, nylon is not heat resistant and cannot withstand temperatures over 500℉ (260°C). If the yarn is exposed to direct sunlight or heat for a long time, it will melt.
Therefore, keep all projects made with nylon in a temperature-controlled environment. Also add some protection against UV rays to protect the thread.
cotton thread
You can use cotton yarn to make quilts, clothing, and patchwork. It is a natural thread, meaning organic materials are used.
Cotton is soft which makes it a perfect thread and even fabric to work with. Because of its strength, fibers and medium sheen, you can count on a tight seam.
However, since it is made of natural fibers, it does not have the same capabilities. Cotton is susceptible to bugs, mold/mildew and does not age well. You cannot tell if you have high quality cotton or bought inferior quality cotton.
Kevlar thread
Kevlar threads are used to create high strength gear and gear. This thread is fire retardant, twice as strong as nylon and even puncture resistant. Dupont made this a safe thread for first responders and also for everyday use.
The only downside I see with Kevlar thread is that it’s hard to find in colors other than yellow. However, you can purchase a multi-color military-style brand from Amazon.
Is nylon stronger than polyester thread?
Nylon is stronger than polyester thread. It has more versatility, durability and a higher strength-to-size ratio. Long-lasting projects include upholstery and leather work. Polyester is used for tasks such as making tents.
Is polyester or cotton thread stronger?
Polyester is stronger than cotton. The polyester thread is resistant to mold and moisture, insects and mildew. The material is stretchier than cotton, making it perfect for heavy projects.
What is the best thread for sewing?
The best thread for sewing is polyester because it has low shrinkage and excellent resistance to UV rays. It also holds the shape well. Polyester only fades after more than 20 years.
Gutermann Sew-all thread is a perfect example of why polyester is the best thread to work with. This thread is great for hand sewing as it offers versatility and doesn’t lack quality. Whether you want to hand sew or machine sew, this thread has you covered.
Do you need a special thread for sewing machines?
You don’t need any special thread for sewing machines. You need to determine the needle size, thread size, and type of fabric you are using.
A good rule of thumb when sewing is to match the thread to the type of fabric you are using. Polyester thread works well with the same material. The same applies to other types of thread and fabric.
If you use the wrong yarn for your fabric, your project won’t last long. To prevent this, use the same thread of material as the fabric.
What does 40wt yarn mean?
40wt yarn means 40kg of yarn weighs 1kg (2.2lbs). You would need to divide the length of the thread by the set weight to get the exact weight of the cord.
Superior Threads has an excellent example of measurements. They also contain some excellent information if you need help with sizing and weight.
Which durable yarn for canvas?
The best high-performance threads for a canvas are bonded nylon, bonded polyester, and Kevlar threads.
If you are using nylon thread for your canvas, make sure you store it indoors as there is no sun protection and keep it away from outside elements.
When using polyester thread, use double bonded polyester thread. It has a higher UV resistance than Nylon and Kevlar. Your canvas can be left outside in the sun and protected from the elements.
If you choose to use Kevlar thread, choose bonded Kevlar. The line not only protects against abrasion with a resin coating, but also tolerates high heat (up to 800 °F), so the line never overheats.
bottom line
The strongest sewing thread is Kevlar thread. However, you shouldn’t use it for every project. Always determine what type of thread you need based on the nature of the project. Here are some questions you might ask yourself:
will this be outside
Do I need this for stretching?
Does this yarn match my fabric?
Can I use this in more than one color?
What qualities do I need?
Do your research and ask these five questions to determine which thread you need. It can save you materials and money before you make a purchase.
Thank you for reading!
See The difference between embroidery thread and sewing thread for more information.
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What is the strongest sewing stitch?
A backstitch is one of the strongest hand sewing stitches. The backstitch gets its name because the needle goes into the fabric behind the previous stitch.
Sewing thread types and uses
Make the first stitch Push the needle into the fabric where you want to start the stitch. Bring the needle back through both layers of fabric just before the knot. Then push the needle back into the fabric between where the needle enters the fabric and back out to create the first stitch. Molly Johanson
Continue sewing. Bring the needle through the fabric the same distance you came forward when making the first stitch. These stitches can touch each other, or you can space them a bit further apart. Continue stitching across your seam in this manner. Take the time to sew small stitches when you need a secure seam. This is especially important for parts of a garment that need durability, such as B. an inseam. For other sewing projects that don’t require high durability, you can make the stitches a little longer if you want to work faster. Molly Johanson
What is the highest quality thread?
- Gutermann Sew-All Thread. Providing great quality and versatility, this polyester thread (50 weight) is suitable for all-purpose use. …
- Mettler Silk-Finish Cotton Thread. …
- American & Efird Serger Thread. …
- Coats & Clark Inc. …
- Singer Polyester Hand Sewing Thread.
Sewing thread types and uses
1. Sew-all thread from Gutermann This polyester thread (size 50) offers excellent quality and versatility and is suitable for universal use. It is sold in a 1,094 yard jumbo spool and can be used when hand sewing or on a machine and works well on all materials and seams. It is made from long-staple polyester, making it very strong and less prone to breakage than other threads, and provides a durable, low-linting finish with optimal puncture resistance. Buy: Gutermann Sew-all $7.80 Buy
2. Mettler Silk-Finish Cotton Thread Made from 100 percent long-staple Egyptian cotton with a soft, silky luster, this thread is ideal for sewing cotton, making it an excellent choice for quilting use. The 547-yard (50 weight) spool of thread is suitable for hand and machine sewing, and its mercerized finish gives it extra strength to reduce snagging, knotting and breakage. It is fade and shrink resistant, providing a dependable finish for heirlooms. Buy: Mettler Silk Finish Cotton Yarn $8.79 Buy
3. American & Efird Serger Thread Serger thread is used to construct seams and finish raw edges, so it is important that it be flexible and strong without bunching or excess weight. Slightly finer than regular sewing thread, this extremely durable 40-gauge polyester thread offers an even gauge and is designed for machine use, but is suitable for all types of sewing and embroidery projects. Thread is supplied on a 3,000 yard cone and is available in a variety of colors. Buy: American & Efird Serger Thread $5.79 Buy
4. Coats & Clark Inc. Dual Duty Heavy Thread An extra heavy gauge (15 gauge) polyester braided thread provides excellent strength for sewing thick materials such as denim, canvas and leather. Suitable for indoor or outdoor use, this yarn is smooth, fade-resistant and weather-resistant. The spool of 125 yards of hand and machine sewing thread provides consistent tension with low breakage for a durable, secure stitch. Buy: Coats & Clark Inc. Dual Duty Heavy Thread $5.91 Buy
What is 12 weight thread used for?
Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.
Sewing thread types and uses
If you find that the thread breaks, this can have various causes. One reason could be that the needle is too small. An eye that is too small or a needle shaft that is not thick enough causes a lot of friction on the thread, which can lead to shreds and breakage.
A needle that is too small can also cause the thread to ball up and turn into a bird’s nest.
Another reason for thread breakage could simply be that you are sewing too fast. Slow down the speed on your machine. This also gives the thread a chance to lay smoothly into the stitches. Slowing down is especially important for decorative stitches due to thread density.
Your upper tension may also be too tight or too loose. If this happens, it can cause the thread to break and cause the bobbin to pull up through the fabric or the upper thread to pull under the fabric. Play with your top tension settings on a scrap of fabric until you find the ideal setting for your machine.
Keep in mind that not all of these problems will occur when sewing with 12wt sewing thread. Because every machine is different, you will find that in most cases the thread will sew beautifully with minimal adjustments. This is just a comprehensive list of everything that could happen and how to solve them if they do.
What types of 12WT threads are there?
12wt threads can be used for all kinds of beautiful, strong stitching. It’s perfect for adding texture effects, as you can see in this thread painting made with a 12wt Egyptian cotton called Spagetti™. Cotton gives you a beautiful matte finish paired with the natural look and texture of cotton. Because we used the heavier 12wt yarn, you can see the yarn stand out against the fabric, making it ideal for eye-catching designs that you can touch.
Top Stitching with Heavy Thread
See some more details on the topic heavy duty top stitching thread here:
Gutermann Top Stitch Thread 414
Ref: 13759-414
In stock
Gutermann Top Stitch Yarn is a strong, heavy polyester yarn with a high sheen, ideal for heavy, decorative sewing, eyelet buttonholes and button sewing, topstitching. Silky shine. Soft and supple. abrasion resistant. Elastic and stretchy. Lightfast and colourfast.
30m spools, 100% polyester.
Recommended needle and gauge: Universal, gauge 100 – 120. Best results are achieved when machine sewing with top stitch in the needle and thread on the bobbin.
Manufacturer: Guterman
Materials: polyester
Part number: 2T30\414
£1.85
Total price:
The Differences in Sewing Thread
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Inside: The differences in sewing thread
A few years ago I regularly attended a sewing club. Occasionally the project demonstrator would say something like, “…and you should use a 40-gauge thread if you go blah, blah, blah.” And they lost me right then and there because I didn’t really understand thread weight and what it meant.
If I have a project that needs sewing, I generally grab a matching spool of Gutermann thread from Joann’s and happily sew my project. When I bought a sewing machine for embroidery, things got a bit complicated. Suddenly thread weight was a relevant topic that needed to be understood.
The differences in sewing thread
The very first thing you need to know about thread weight is this:
The higher the thread weight number, the thinner the thread.
The second thing you need to know is that thread weight numbers aren’t always clearly stated. Occasionally you will see a thread weight that looks like a fraction and is labeled 50/2 or 40/3. The second number indicates the thread position. So a 50/2 cotton thread would be a 2-ply thread with a weight of 50 that is thin and strong. The most important point to remember is that two or more layers of yarn is equal to one stronger yarn.
Understanding thread weight becomes confusing as there really is no universal standard for thread measurement. Terms like Cotton Count, Denier and Tex really only understand people on the yarn manufacturer side. Occasionally these terms are slipped into the information at the end of a spool and confuse us even more.
Knowing this properly might make you an expert on thread weights, but it’s totally unnecessary. Really, all you want to know is this:
Which thread should I buy for my project?
50 weight thread
The most common threads from fabric stores would be 50 thread weight general purpose threads. These threads are made of polyester or a poly/cotton blend. For example, Gutermann and Mettler all-purpose yarns are a polyester 50/3 yarn. This is suitable for most sewing projects and will hold your project together quite well.
Remember that a 50 wt. All-purpose yarn differs significantly from a high-quality 50 weight cotton quilting yarn. Both threads can be easily sewn into clothing or quilts. However, it is recommended to choose a higher quality 50 weight. Cotton yarn for quilt projects. Higher quality 50wt threads provide a nice thin thread that doesn’t add much bulk to the seams when assembling a quilt. They are also ideal for machine quilting, appliqué, hand piece and hand applique.
Over the past year I’ve slowly transitioned to high quality 50wt. Thread for most of my sewing projects. I prefer Aurifil high quality 50wt thread because it is consistently thin and strong.
40 weight thread
When I turn 40 think. Thread, I’m thinking shiny embroidery floss. And that’s for the most part what you would want for machine embroidery projects. Occasionally you may come across a 30WT. Embroidery thread that is slightly heavier than a 40 embroidery thread. and is not that common.
Most 40 wt threads are either viscose or polyester. Rayon used to be considered the better of the two due to its sheen and range of colors. However, rayon has its drawbacks. It tends to break when sewn and does not hold up well to everyday laundering conditions.
Recently, great progress has been made with 40% by weight. Polyester thread for machine embroidery. Polyester threads can now compete with viscose threads in both luster and color range. It is now my thread of choice for machine embroidery.
Don’t dismiss this thread if you don’t have a machine with embroidery capability. I use 40 weight polyester thread for sewing decorative stitches and appliqués. It adds a little sparkle and lots of color.
The key to successful sewing with 40 wt. The thread is pulled in with the right-hand needle. I recommend using an embroidery needle as it has a large eye and a special scarf that protects delicate threads. The combination of these two things prevents thread breakage when sewing.
40 wt serger thread
A high-quality serging thread is also a 40 weight polyester thread. The difference is that overcasting thread has a special coating that allows it to withstand the high speed and tension demands of overcasting. I’ve been known to use my serger thread for general purpose stitching. It generally works quite well. It’s a little heavier than a 50 weight, but that wouldn’t make a difference if you were sewing something like a pillow or bag.
12 – 18 weight thread
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If you want to do hand stitching or heavy topstitching, a 12wt. – 18 wt thread will be your best choice. The 12wt Aurifil thread in the photo above is ideal for hand quilting or even hand embroidery.
It works just as well for topstitching denim. Most heavy duty sewing threads you see in sewing stores are probably 18wt which will work. However, it is important to pay attention to the thread quality. Using a heavier gauge, poor quality thread for hand stitching or careful topstitching can result in many thread breaks or fraying on garments.
I like to use these thicker threads for straight stitch appliqués. It defines the seams and adds another layer of texture to a project.
Occasionally you will see a 12-18 WT. colorful yarn suitable for hand quilting or defined machine quilting. I don’t own very many of these threads, but they can definitely add drama to all kinds of projects.
Note: If you’re using heavier threads like this, you’ll probably need to adjust your tension a bit.
28 weight thread
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Another option for hand quilting or hand sewing is a 28wt. Thread. As the number suggests, it’s somewhere in between a heavier 12wt. and a superfine 50 wt. I’ve never used this thread before, but saw it on a small hand quilting project. I thought it was ideal for hand quilting because it defines the quilting without being overly heavy.
This thread is harder to find and you’re more likely to see it in a set like this one: Aurifil Thread Set. Whenever I see 28 WT. Threads in stores or at quilt shows, I like to pick up a neutral colored one or two as I don’t use them that often.
Lower thread with 60 weight
If you machine embroider, you probably used a 60 weight. bobbin thread. This super thin polyester thread is ideal for the spool when the back of your project is never visible.
I’ve heard recently that some quilters are using 60wt. threads. Personally, I’ve never used it for quilting projects because I’ve only seen it in black or white. A high-quality 60 wt. Thread would be super thin and seriously strong.
Final Thoughts
Like I said, the only thing you really need to know is this: the higher the thread weight number, the thinner the thread. A little more knowledge about different yarn counts opens up all possible options for future projects. I encourage you to step out a little and try some threads of different weights in future projects. Sew a pocket handle with a 12wt. Thread. Add a decorative stitch to the hem of a garment using a 40 weight. polyester thread. Experiment with colorful threads on your next quilting project.
Above all, imagine the possibilities.
Sewing thread types and uses
In this guide, I’ll focus on different types of threads for sewing. There are many types of sewing threads. How many? Well, it’s hard to say, but I would estimate the number to be in the high hundreds.
Most of the time we hear that “more is better”. More choice means better choices for each transaction, better quality because you can compare reviews, etc. But sometimes “more” isn’t necessarily better, sometimes it’s confusing and overwhelming.
A printable version of this item that includes the pattern is available in my Etsy shop or my My Site shop.
Let me explain: if I have two threads, one thick, one thin, the choice is easy. What if I have 1000? Have you seen the fabric stores lately? Check out the picture below.
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See the literally thousands of threads on those racks? How do you vote? Is there a difference between them? Do I need to consider the type of garment I’m making? What about the fabric? Ok, does the type of sewing machine I use make a difference? What if I sew by hand? Or if I sew leather or vinyl?
Attention! If you like the video format, look for a Thread Secrets YouTube video at the bottom of this post for some really helpful information on… well, Thread Secrets! For a more complete picture, I recommend examining both versions.
All of these are valid questions, and over time, as an experienced user, you will learn about different types of threads and how to use them. The problem is, threads change. What was true 25 years ago is no longer true today, and if the trend continues, in 15 years we will see a very different picture.
For example, just 5 years ago, stretchy thread wasn’t available for the regular sewing machine (it was only available to sergers). Today we have Eloflex, which is great for sewing knit fabrics on a home sewing machine.
No matter how experienced you are, you really need to keep up with the changes!
This tutorial attempts to organize ideas and provide alternatives for the user, and is intended to serve as a guide to saving time and effort when choosing a thread for a sewing project.
thread construction methods
There are three main categories of threads based on their method of construction:
1. Spun thread. This is your regular yarn, the most commonly used yarn, and can be made from either natural or man-made fibers. Spun polyester is considered the best in this category, and is generally stronger than cotton for the same thickness.
The fibers are spun into yarn (the same ancient process my great-grandmother used to do at home), then several strands are twisted together.
2. Core-spun thread (sometimes called poly-wrapped poly-core or perma-core): Thread has an inner core of a single polyester filament around which regular spun fibers are wrapped. Because of the filament core, this thread is stronger than regular thread and is not used for normal home use, but it is used for high speed sewing.
3. Filament or monofilament thread, as the name suggests, consists of one long filament; usually polyester.
There is no spinning and no yarn is used here, the thread is a long strand. If you want to think of a filament thread, think of a fishing line – the difference is that the fishing line is not made of polyester and is thicker, but the principle is the same.
One of the most popular monofilament threads is the “invisible” thread, which is not actually invisible but is very thin and easy to hide.
Some metallic threads are another very good example of filament threads. Because filament thread is naturally shiny (no individual fibers), it is also used for embroidery.
When two or more monofilament strands are twisted together, a very strong multifilament thread is created that is used in specialized applications such as shoe making or curtains.
There are other construction methods for specialty threads, such as bonded threads, where a resin coating is applied to the thread to increase its resistance, or textured threads, which are threads that have been mechanically treated to create a stretchy, to get woolly thread.
fiber content
Thread can also be categorized by its fiber content: natural fibers (cotton, silk, wool), synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon), or (sometimes) a blend of natural and synthetic fibers. The most commonly used materials are cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose and some special types (metallic, glitter, etc.)
Cotton takes dyes well, and the mercerization process makes it even better at it; As a result, the thread is colourfast, resists exposure to light and can be used for both machine and hand sewing. Cotton thread is a predominant choice for sewing natural cotton fabrics and for quilting.
Polyester yarn is the most common yarn and is very versatile. Polyester thread comes in a wide range of colors and weights, is stronger than cotton of the same weight, is shinier and has a bit of stretch.
However, polyester does not take paint well, so colors tend to run and fade, especially in sunlight. UV light also damages untreated polyester after prolonged exposure.
A special mention for spun polyester yarn used in sergers. I mentioned that it’s been specially treated with a coating to withstand high-speed sewing; I can’t comment on the plating issue, it may or may not, I just don’t know. However, my empirical observation is that spun polyester serging thread, which is typically sold in larger cones, is actually a thinner thread and not as strong as other polyester threads. I would not use the upper thread in a regular sewing machine.
Another important fact: Polyester actually melts at high temperatures. So if you are ironing an item with a very hot iron, try scrap first as the hot iron could damage the thread and ruin your project (this actually happened to me).
Both cotton and polyester can be spun, and spun thread (especially low-quality thread) can shed fibers, and that’s not only annoying, it’s actually dangerous for your sewing machine. The fluff accumulates and over time prevents the machine from working properly, it can clog the air vents and cause overheating.
Of course, fluff accumulates in the most hidden and very difficult to clean places! It is therefore very important to use high quality threads, they pill less.
There is also a process for cotton yarn (gassing, also called a silk finish) that actually burns the excess fluff off the yarn after it is spun, resulting in a smoother finish and a shinier appearance.
Nylon is another synthetic fiber. It is not used as often as polyester because it is more expensive. Nylon is more flexible and stretchable than polyester, it is also more durable and wear-resistant, but has low UV resistance. Both polyester and nylon can cause allergies in people.
A special category of threads is rayon. Despite being a natural fabric (wood), rayon is extensively processed until the thread is created, so it’s on par with any other synthetic fiber in my opinion. Because rayon is not spun but extruded into filaments, the thread is naturally shiny and is primarily used for embroidery. It is not a strong fiber and does not carry color well, viscose colors run fairly easily.
The silk thread is also worth mentioning. A very thin silk thread can be used to sew very delicate fabrics without affecting the quality of the stitching. Also because it’s thin, it blends easily into the fabric and stitches aren’t very obvious. This thread is an absolute must for sewing delicate silk. If you are interested in working with natural silk fabrics, check out my tutorial, Helpful Tips to Avoid Frustration When Sewing Silk.
Shiny threads (metallic, mylar) are often used to add oomph to your creations. Threads in this category vary widely in quality and as the saying goes “you get what you pay for” applies here, cheaper threads tend to be of lower quality.
A metal thread that is poorly constructed has a tendency to snag and actually bite into the metal parts of your sewing machine, the metal part is quite abrasive.
Good thread quality tries to “hide” the metallic part so that it does not have direct contact with the thread guides or the needle. Both metallic thread and mylar require you to be careful and will likely slow down your sewing speed.
How is the thread measured?
There are a number of units that measure the weight of a thread, usually the weight per a given unit of length. The most commonly used systems are (there are others, see wiki explanation here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Units_of_textile_measurement):
Weight: Shows how many kilometers of thread are needed to produce 1 kg. If the weight is 40, it takes a length of 40km to make 1kg of yarn. Lower the number, heavier the thread.
Denier (Den): Shows the weight in grams of 9 km of thread (9000 m). The higher the number, the thicker the thread. But as far as I’m concerned, I’ve never seen spools of thread marked with Den numbers.
Tex: is the weight in grams of 1000 m of thread (1 km). Similar to denier, the higher the number, the heavier the thread.
But the funny thing is that the heavier thread (by weight I mean) doesn’t necessarily mean heavier thread. The thickness of the thread can be deceiving when looking at it. The thread weight depends on the density of the thread and the fibers used. So differently marked threads in Tex or Wt. Numbers can have the same thickness.
Most threads sold in home sewing stores don’t even have thread size markings. At the same time, industrial yarns are always marked with Tex. or Wt marked. Number. But it also depends on the brand. For example, the company American&Efird marks their threads most of the time.
A clear difference in the thread thickness can usually be seen when comparing two spools of the same size. For example, in the image below you can see spools of the same size, but the spool on the left (with brown thread) has 110 yards of thread and the spool on the right has 274 yards, and this tells us that the green thread is much thinner.
✅ Related Tutorial: Best Serger for Beginners – Serger Buying Guide
brands of sewing threads
Yarn is one of those things that really pays off when buying a brand name, especially if you’re not using industrial quantities.
Names I like (there are many others): Gutermann, Coats and Clark, American & Efird, Sulky, Superior, Madeira.
What should you absolutely avoid? I don’t usually give advice because I feel that no one is the holder of absolute truth and what may be right for me may not be so right for someone else, but I strongly believe that you should not do the following :
Buy cheap no-name yarn sold at dollar stores or other discount stores.
Buy old threads like those found in garage and estate sales without trying them one by one, and even then use caution.
Why no dollar store threads? Easy. The cheap thread is fluffy, flimsy, snaps, snags and falls off in a jiffy, in fact causing you far more time and frustration than the price would save you. Not counting the cleaning of the sewing machine.
Why no estate/flea market threads? Because they may have been stored improperly and have come into contact with moisture, they can become mouldy. Or dirty, dusty. Because they might be old and the color might be faded, or part of them might be so faded that the thread looks multicolored. Older twisting techniques were not always up to par with modern ones, and modern fibers are better, especially polyester. There are of course exceptions, some yarns may be in excellent shape, but each spool needs to be assessed individually.
I usually buy my sewing threads in 1000 yard spools because I find larger cones cumbersome to use, difficult to store and even 1000 yard spools last a very long time.
I bought larger cones in specialist shops for industrial sewing. I bought them because they are exceptionally strong but have found I have no use for that much yarn. They don’t fit on the sewing machine (I need a special stand for them) and most of the time I find myself skipping those big cones and using a smaller one simply because it’s more convenient. Thread isn’t a huge expense compared to fabric, and I didn’t feel the money saving was worth the extra effort.
What threads to use for your sewing projects
all-purpose thread
If you go to a fabric store to buy thread, you can see that the largest thread shelf is always called ALL PURPOSE THREAD. But I don’t actually see that name on spools very often. In my large thread collection I found only one spool with this writing on it. Most often on this type of yarn you can find the inscription DUAL DUTY or just 100% polyester.
This is your daily thread, good to use for almost any project and any situation. The keyword here is “almost” because you’ll probably use it 9 times out of 10.
It’s made almost entirely of polyester or cotton-covered polyester and comes in every imaginable color and a range of sizes, but the most common are the 40 and 50 weights. In fact, most of the time the weight isn’t even mentioned on the yarn.
The few jobs that this thread is not suitable for are sewing very heavy fabrics (jeans, furniture, decorative fabrics), outdoor items that need to withstand direct sunlight/humidity, very thin fabrics (gauze, organza).
A special mention for sewing silk, I always prefer silk thread for silk fabrics.
This thread is also not suitable for embroidery, use embroidery polyester, viscose or silk for this.
In general I prefer to match the fabric with the yarn as they will be washed together and suffer the same type of wear and tear. However, this is not a strict rule, but mostly an empirical observation. But it makes sewing easier, I’ve found (and I’m not the only one) that it’s easier to adjust the tension on the sewing machine when the thread is the right fiber and thickness for the material.
I would like to remind you once again that the use of polyester threads for articles that are pressed at high temperatures is problematic, since polyester threads can melt. Happens more often than you think!
serger thread
Overcast Thread is also a variant of All-Purpose Thread. Overcast thread is generally thinner than regular thread because an overcast stitch contains a lot of thread and would otherwise be bulky.
A serger stitch isn’t necessarily strong because the thread is strong (it’s no stronger than regular thread), but also because of the inherent construction of the stitch. The serger uses 3 or 4 threads to form the seam while a sewing machine uses only two.
Serger thread usually comes in larger cones, 3000 yards or larger, and I don’t recommend it for a regular sewing machine, mainly because it leaves a lot of lint, unless you buy very high quality thread. Regular sewing thread is mostly made of 100% polyester.
A notable mention for stretch sewing thread: wool nylon (or textured nylon) has been available for quite some time and is regularly used in sewing machines for stretch fabrics. This type of thread is stretchable not because it has elastic properties, but through mechanical treatment and under tension it becomes thinner and longer without the individual fibers having many elastic properties.
This type of thread can also be used in a regular sewing machine (ONLY in the bobbin) with special stretch zigzag stitches.
✅ Related tutorial: stretch thread for sewing
quilting thread
There is a special quilting thread. Most quilters prefer to use cotton thread for quilting, especially since most quilts are made of cotton fabric. But the special quilting yarn (at least what I have for quilting yarn) is usually cotton covered polyester which gives it a shiny finish and a lot less lint. It also has a shiny appearance.
embroidery floss
Embroidery thread is shiny, often thinner than regular general purpose thread, and is usually made of rayon or polyester.
Cotton embroidery thread is manufactured and sold, but I personally prefer not to use cotton when embroidering. Embroidery machines use a lot of stitches, a lot more than a normal sewing machine, and this creates a lot of friction for the thread and a lot of lint; and the cotton thread is the king of lint.
Think about it: a very small 5cm x 5cm (2 inch x 2 inch) design may have 3000 to 5000 stitches; with a stitch length of 2.5 mm, this is a linear stitch of 7.5 to 12.5 m! That’s probably two to three times the size of an entire blouse, and we’re talking a VERY small size here! I don’t even want to think about a design that uses 30000 to 50000 stitches.
There are many types of embroidery threads (different fibers, different thicknesses/weights, different brands, cones and bobbins can have different shapes and sizes) and this is a very big topic for another article.
Let me show you how different embroidery threads can be. Check the image below: 15 weight thread!
heavy thread
As the name suggests, heavy-duty yarn is designed to withstand high levels of tension and wear, and is generally thicker than regular general-purpose yarn. It can be cotton, polyester, a combination of both, or even nylon.
Depending on its exact destination, it may have additional properties, for example for outdoor use, may be treated for UV protection or for water resistance.
What are you using this thread for? Thick/heavy fabrics, outdoor gear and clothing, sports gear, luggage, bags, curtains, etc.
Glued nylon thread
Bonded nylon thread is a good example of a high performance thread. It is sometimes referred to as “waxed thread” because of the resin coating that makes it waterproof and increases its durability.
The resin doesn’t have to be wax and probably isn’t currently, but that’s how the thread started.
It is mainly used in industrial applications where waterproofing and strength are important (shoes, luggage) and probably only on special machines, otherwise the wax/resin would immediately clog the machine.
In the picture below you can see bonded nylon yarn which is a really heavy duty yarn. I can’t even break it with my hand it’s that strong.
Another type of bonded thread is known as “button or carpet thread” and is actually a different variant of heavy duty thread that is also only used for hand sewing as the wax does not behave well in a sewing machine. Never use tied thread in a household sewing machine! Then your sewing machine repair service will love you!
upholstery yarn
Upholstery yarn is indeed a type of durable yarn and it is also a thick/heavy yarn; Nylon is sometimes preferred for upholstery yarn. The upholstery yarn can be exceptionally stressed in certain situations. Think of a seam for a couch that is meant to last 10, 20 or more years despite daily use. I personally have used upholstery thread very little as few projects call for this extreme resilience.
denim/denim thread
Jeans/jeans yarn is another type of high performance yarn. What makes it special? Probably the color? That’s why I used it, otherwise it’s difficult to find exactly the right one for your jeans.
invisible thread
Invisible yarn is actually a monofilament yarn and not really invisible, it’s just very difficult to see on the fabric because it’s very thin and also transparent.
For dark fabrics, a smoky version is made with some extra color in the material of the thread.
This line comes off the spool very easily and you must be careful when handling it. A special needle for metallic threads is recommended for this.
Elastic thread
Elastic thread is used for gathering or gathering the material; Not only is this type of thread stretchy, it’s really thin and stretchy and sewing with it is really different than sewing with regular thread. You only use this thread for the bobbin and regular thread for the needle.
stretch thread
Stretch thread most commonly used in sergers is woolly nylon (or textured nylon). But now we have a stretch thread for a regular sewing machine. It’s a newer type of yarn and I personally only use one brand: Eloflex by Coats & Clark. I enjoy using this thread, it’s very useful in certain situations and I felt it deserved its own article, so I wrote a review on this thread.
But I also have a Fujix knitting sewing thread which is stretchy but I haven’t used it yet so I can’t comment on that thread.
fusible thread
Did you know that there are melt threads? Yes, it does. It is made of nylon and melts at a relatively low temperature, just like the normal fusible web.
It has the advantage that it forms a continuous connection between the two pieces of fabric and thus prevents the material from puckering or slipping during further processing.
You can even use the thread without sewing to hold trim or fabric in place. Simply put the thread between two pieces of fabric and press it with an iron. The glue melts and the pieces of fabric are glued together.
It can be used for sewing in zippers, attaching trims and bindings, making pleats, etc.
I’ve seen other uses as well, mainly as accessories for art constructions, where the design is sewn into a piece of fabric, then a metallic or colored paper is placed on top and ironed; The thread melts and the colored/metallic part of the paper adheres permanently to the fabric, creating the design.
For more information on how to use this thread, see Threads Magazine at this link.
washout thread (disappearing thread)
Another oddity, very useful for temporary stapling: disappearing thread. It is actually a water soluble thread and can be used anywhere a temporary stitch is required.
To remove the thread you need to submerge the seam (or the entire item) in water, so it can only be used with fabrics that will not be damaged by water or steam.
It looks like a normal thread. I wound a bobbin with it and threaded my sewing machine with it. It made beautiful stitches. But after I put water on it – it went away!
No more frustration removing basting stitches or sewing and quilting over your basting thread! It disappears without a trace.
It is suitable for both machine stapling and hand stapling. You can baste hems, pleats, zippers, baste a garment to adjust, baste appliques, pockets, etc.
Or you’re sewing a bathing suit for someone you really don’t like. Just kidding.
Lifetime thread
I have to mention one other thread, although I haven’t used it and probably never will: Have you ever heard of the “Lifetime Thread”? Yes, it exists! It withstands everything, direct sunlight, UV rays, extreme temperatures, harsh cleaning agents, snow, water, rot – in short, indestructible.
The manufacturer (Sailrite) even says “it will outlast your fabric”. Isn’t modern science wonderful? But it’s expensive, on the manufacturer’s site I found it side-by-side with Bonded Nylon Coats extra strong thread that cost $2.95 for 250 yards; This lifetime thread was a cool $76 for 800 yards! But I think for certain applications it can make sense.
So here is my YouTube video. Check this out if you want to see thread secrets.
There are many places to buy yarn and I recommend waiting for the right bundle or sale. There are often special offers and even if you don’t need the thread at the moment, you should always have a supply of thread ready, because you can’t sew without it!
Also, keep in mind that embroidery thread isn’t usually made for regular sewing, so be sure to buy the right type of thread for each project. The reverse also applies: Sewing thread is not always suitable for embroidery.
Did you find this guide helpful? If so, save this pin (below) to your sewing board so you can come back to this tutorial later if you need it, and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration!
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