Hemp Yarn For Weaving? Trust The Answer

Hemp yarn is a less common cousin of other plant fibers commonly used in knitting (cotton and linen being the most common). It has some disadvantages, but can also be a good choice for certain projects (it’s fabulous for knitted tote bags and, when mixed with cotton, makes great tea towels).

There are a few things you should know about knitting with hemp yarn before you get started. In this article, we look at some common topics and questions that knitters often have:

basic facts

properties of hemp

Knitting with hemp yarn

Select knitting pattern

Supervision of completed projects

Buy hemp yarn

Let’s take a closer look at each of these areas and then you’ll be ready to try hemp yarn for your next knitting project.

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Basic facts about hemp

Yarn fibers can be roughly divided into four broad categories – animal fibers (like wool, silk, and alpaca), plant fibers (like cotton and linen), biosynthetic fibers (like rayon and bamboo), and synthetic fibers (like acrylic and nylon). . Hemp fits into the plant fiber category because it comes from a naturally growing plant and also does not require heavy processing to turn the fibers into a usable yarn (like biosynthetic fibers do). It is processed in a similar way to linen.

While many fragments of cotton and linen fabrics and textiles have been discovered, giving us a glimpse of life in the distant past, these are becoming increasingly rare the further we go back in time as plant fibers decompose over time. Despite this fact, there are examples of hemp substances that date back to 800 BC. in Asia, where hemp fabrics were common for everyday use. Along with cloth, it was also used to make rope, twine, sandals, shoes, and even shrouds.

It was also traditionally used for paper. According to The Principles of Knitting, hemp paper was used for the Gutenberg Bible and Thomas Jefferson also wrote a draft of the Declaration of Independence on hemp paper. Benjamin Franklin also had a hemp paper making business.

Like linen, hemp goes through a long process to transform the plant into a usable fabric. The outer husk is soaked and then shredded to allow the inner fibers to be extracted. These fibers are then spun into useful yarn. Hemp is very easy to grow and requires no fertilizers or pesticides, making it a good yarn choice for those with environmental concerns.

Sources: The Principles of Knitting – Hemp 101

The properties of hemp

Hemp yarn has some advantages and disadvantages that knitters need to know about before they start knitting. It’s a great yarn for tote bags or placemats, and when mixed with cotton or other absorbent vegetable fibers makes great tea towels. But there are times when you want to avoid hemp.

Benefits of Hemp Yarn

Although there are some disadvantages (discussed in the next section), hemp yarn has some clear advantages that make it a good choice for some knitting projects. Here are some of the special benefits hemp yarns can bring to your knitting projects:

strong & durable

good insulator

absorbent

mildew resistant

pilling free

becomes softer with washing

takes dye well

resists fading

Because of its strength, hemp is a good choice for market bags, placemats and housewares or personal accessories. It will soften with repeated washings (due to its similarity to linen yarns). And when paired with cotton, it’s a great combination to knit into strong, absorbent tea towels.

Disadvantages of hemp yarn

While hemp can be a good choice for certain projects, it does have some downsides that you should be aware of before using hemp yarn for your next project. Hemp is:

rough

inelastic

difficult

difficult to process

rough on the hands

Due to its coarse, inelastic nature, it can be very rough on hands when knitting. As such, it is not a good choice for heavily textured patterns. It works best in openwork, lace or plain garter or stockinette fabric. Even then, the fabric will still be uneven due to the coarse, stiff nature of hemp yarn.

For this reason, hemp is likely blended with other fibers to reduce some of these disadvantages. It gives the mixture good strength, as well as absorbency, mold resistance and other factors.

Hemp yarn is great for tote bags and home decor, tea towels, and even other projects as long as the knitter is aware of the downsides when choosing their projects.

Knitting with hemp yarn

Pure hemp yarn will be hard on your hands. It is stiff and coarse and does not produce an even fabric. Thankfully, the material evens out somewhat as the fabric is washed (and it will soften with continued washing – like linen). Stick to solid-colored garter stitch or stockinette stitch or open-toe designs with a looser mesh that are more comfortable on the hands and look better.

Hemp yarns (particularly 100% hemp) also split easily, so pay attention to the yarn as you knit to ensure you don’t split layers as you knit.

When hemp is part of a blend (e.g. twisted with cotton or wool), it opens up a world of possibilities. It gives strength and durability to a wool blend. It adds strength, durability and mildew resistance to a cotton blend that would be ideal for tea towels.

Also see: Knitting with Linen Yarn: Everything You Need to Know

Selection of knitting patterns for hemp yarn

As we discussed in the previous section, hemp yarn has some clear advantages and disadvantages that you should consider when choosing a suitable knitting pattern for your yarn. The easiest way is to simply pick a pattern that has hemp yarn used to design the pattern. But as simple as that sounds, because hemp yarn isn’t used very often, there aren’t many patterns published specifically for this type of yarn.

The first thing to think about is what this type of yarn is good for. Because it is stiff and coarse, it is not suitable for clothing. The only exception would be really open and pointy summer tops (like this Cancun Boxy Lace Top) and only if you are sure that repeated washing will soften the yarn.

When using 100% hemp, avoid anything heavily textured as it is difficult to knit and the coarse, stiff nature of hemp yarn does not provide good stitch definition. Stick to plain fabrics or openwork, eyelet, or lace designs.

Hemp twine is a good choice in other cases. Market bags knitted with hemp yarn are strong and keep their shape. This also works in our favor for things like coasters and placemats. It also works well in knit tea towels, especially when mixed with cotton. Hemp is absorbent, mildew resistant, and strong, making it a good complement to the softness and absorbency of cotton.

It also works well when mixed with other fibers (vegetable fibers or wool) – and that opens up even more possibilities. When hemp is part of a blend, it’s a much safer option for hand-knit garments. In such a situation, it works well in summer tops, tanks, and t-shirts, where its strength can help the garment hold its shape.

Supervision of knitting projects from hemp

Hemp yarns and hemp blends are easy to care for. Many of them are machine washable and dryable. Of course, you should always look for specific care instructions on the yarn label of your yarn.

If it’s machine washable: Simply machine wash in cold water (gentle is always a good option for hand knitting) and, if the yarn label allows, tumble dry. If it doesn’t, lay it flat to dry instead (and follow the blocking instructions below if you want it to dry to specific measurements).

If it’s not machine washable: Hand wash before laying the project flat to dry (and follow the blocking instructions below if lace is involved or you want to make sure it dries to specific measurements).

How to Block Knitting Projects Knitted in Hemp

Hemp knitting projects do not require any special blocking techniques. (At its simplest, blocking is just caring for your handknit garments.) If you follow the care instructions on the yarn label and it doesn’t produce the result you want – which may be the case when you’re knitting an open or lace pattern that takes a little work, to fully open – wet blocking is a good choice.

Wet Blocking: After washing and while the project is still wet, pin the project to its final shape and dimensions on a blocking mat. Be sure to stretch lace or other openwork designs to showcase them.

Buy hemp yarn

Yarns made from 100% hemp are not common (I linked a few that I found). Hemp is more likely to be blended with other fibers to reduce some of its downsides. When a yarn uses hemp, it adds some strength to the yarn. That is why it is often mixed with cotton. Cotton is also inelastic but not strong, and cotton knit projects tend to sag and sag over time. Adding hemp to a cotton yarn gives it extra strength and makes those same projects less likely to sag and sag.

100% hemp yarns:

Here are a few hemp blends to try:

More questions & answers about hemp yarn

If you are just looking for a quick answer to a specific hemp twine question, here is a list of frequently asked questions and quick answers to those questions.

What can you knit with hemp yarn?

Hemp is a strong, inelastic yarn that is great for tote bags and home accessories like placemats and coasters. It’s also great for other accessories like bags, lace headbands, and beading projects. When mixed with cotton, it makes great tea towels.

How to make hemp yarn softer?

Like linen yarn, hemp yarn can be softened before knitting. Wrap the yarn into a skein and soak in lukewarm water for 30 minutes, let dry and wrap the yarn into a ball.

Does hemp shrink when washed?

Like other natural fibers (like cotton), hemp yarn can shrink if washed in hot water and then put in the dryer. See the yarn label for the best instructions on caring for your hemp knitting projects.

What is hemp yarn made of?

Hemp yarn is extracted from a plant of the cannabis family. The yarn is processed like linen yarn, with the plant being soaked and then shredded so that the inner fibers can be extracted. These fibers are then spun into usable yarn and often mixed with other fibers into yarns that can be used in knitting.

More about yarns & fibers

The Knitter’s Book of Yarn by Clara Parkes (available on Amazon)

Yarn Replacement Made Easy by Carol J. Sulcoski (available on Amazon)

Knits from the Greenhouse by Cornelia Bartlette (available on Amazon)

Yarn Garden: 30 Knits Using Plant-Based Fibers by J. Marsha Michler (available on Amazon)

Related knitting items

Be the boss

In order to have full control over your weaving, you need to know how the fibers work with each other.

Wool, cotton, rayon, silk, polyester and acrylic each have their own personality and a good weaver knows how to combine them.

You also need to know which fiber is best for your project.

So let’s get started!

I describe each fiber, its properties and how I like to use it.

fibers from animals

We call the animal fibers protein fibers. This is something you need to know especially when dyeing the yarn. Protein fibers require different dyes than plant fibers.

Wool

Wool is the most forgiving fiber and is easy to work with. It packs beautifully and is forgiving with its slight stretch.

Most of the wool we use is spun after the fibers have been carded and fluffed, creating the soft, cozy yarns we use in clothing and rugs.

Another type of wool yarn is called worsted, in which the fibers are not carded but combed and spun into a dense yarn. Typically used in coats, carpets, and upholstery, these yarns are expensive.

I live in the desert and don’t wear much wool. I mainly use it in rugs and in my rolled up baskets.

Wool needs special care, you can’t just throw it in the washing machine and dryer or it will shrink. I always say treat it like you would treat yourself.

Don’t throw it in a tub of hot water. Would you like that? Treat it gently, starting with lukewarm water, water you’ll want to jump into for a nice soothing bath. Don’t crush it or overhandle it, or the tiny microscopic scales on the wool fibers will bind together and “mat”.

On the other hand, sometimes you want it to turn into felt, and that’s the subject for another post!

silk

Well, silk is silky! Its shimmering sheen is perfect for shawls and it drapes so beautifully.

When weaving with silk you will find that it slips around a bit so it’s a good idea to keep the weave tight, an airy weave can just turn into a mess with wear and wash.

Above is a photo of silk chenille that I hand dyed. Silk chenille… well this was a pleasure for me to buy because it’s expensive! I’ve used it in some tiny amulet necklaces (amulets are little bags from ancient times that people kept special treasures in). Next to the chenille are some red and blue strands of tussah silk.

There is another type of silk that feels more organic and earthy. It’s called raw silk. The photo above is raw silk. It’s not as supple as regular silk, but I love its organic feel and it drapes well.

Raw silk is made from the outer part of the silk cocoon and has a slightly sticky feel with tiny organic matter.

I like to use both types of silk, but being a cereal eater and not rich, I often use raw silk in my clothes.

There are other types of animal fiber, yak, camel, alpaca, llama and rabbit. Actually, any animal hair can be spun into yarn if you feel like it. I have a sweater with my first dog’s fur knitted into it. When I wear it, I think of sweet Mava.

If you click on the link for each of these luxury fibers you will see that they are not your everyday fiber, they are expensive but a nice treat to buy just a little!

fibers from plants

Plant fibers are called cellulose fibers. Like the protein fibers, these require dyes that are to be incorporated into the cellulose structure.

Cotton

Cotton is my favorite, it’s soft, absorbent and easy to weave. It usually costs less than wool or silk.

It is available in many qualities, from plain cotton yarn to silky, lustrous yarn.

Mercerized cotton has been treated to give the yarn more luster and dye well.

Unmercerized cotton isn’t as vibrant and works well for towels because it’s more absorbent.

linen

Linen is made from flax, and unlike cotton, its fibers come from the stalk of the plant. It’s called bast fiber.

Linen can be difficult to weave because it doesn’t stretch. A little stretch in a fiber allows us to optimize the tension on the loom and forgives us if we don’t wind the yarn perfectly.

But I love linen, it smells so good it feels like it’s a spring day outside. Linen is also a bit expensive, so cottolin is a nice alternative to pure linen. Cottolin consists of 60% cotton and 40% linen. The cotton makes processing easier, is less expensive, and has the same sweet scent.

hemp

Hemp is also a bast fiber and difficult to process. I haven’t used it for weaving…but I will soon! I ordered too much hemp twine for my packaging so I’ll try to make some placemats.

Hemp doesn’t have the same quality as linen, it’s not as shiny and its fibers are shorter. It’s strong and a great fiber for baskets.

district

Rayon is a type of natural fiber. By kind I mean it’s made of cellulose, but it’s made with polymers, which makes it kind of natural.

Rayon is made from wood pulp and then put through spinnerets, much like the silkworm does when making its cocoon. Learn more here.

I like working with rayon, it feels natural, drapes like silk and the sheen is almost the same as silk too.

soy

There are many different fibers that are proving to be eco-friendly, and soy is the most popular among weavers. It can be draped even more beautifully than viscose and is dyed in bright colors. It is often mixed with silk and cotton.

I can’t tell you much about it because I haven’t used it yet, I just bought a nice soy roving at a wool festival and I’ll probably swoon over it for a while and then stick it in something I’m felting.

synthetic fibers

acrylic

I’m just going to get the truth out now.

I don’t like weaving with acrylic. It’s too static and just not fun to weave with.

But I don’t like acrylic at all. It doesn’t let your skin breathe. Natural fibers always feel much more comfortable on the skin.

It’s reliable because you always know it won’t shrink or change a lot with washing.

You can buy very nice acrylic, and there are many high-end mixes out there, so if you see something you just love, don’t miss out.

Polyester and nylon are also mixed into yarns. They add strength, luster and are usually found in novelty yarns. Novelty yarns have added all sorts of fun, bumpy, furry and shiny things.

Metallic

Metallics are nice for adding a little sparkle to your handwoven fabric, and a little goes a long way. I’ve only used this one for a few rows in a few placemats.

When weaving it into a shawl, be careful that it is not abrasive to the touch. Form follow function!

Fabric name Hemp fabric, also known as industrial hemp Fabric composition Fibers from stems of the cannabis sativa plant Fabric possible thread count variations 250-300 Fabric breathability Very breathable Moisture wicking properties High heat retention abilities Low stretch (give) Medium Pilling/blistering prone Low country, in where fabrics were first manufactured Asia and Middle East Today largest export/production country China Recommended washing temperatures Warm Often used for t-shirts, dresses, hoodies, underwear, socks, other garments and household textiles

Amazing unused French hemp fabric

What is hemp fabric?

Hemp fabric is a type of textile made from fibers obtained from the stalks of the cannabis sativa plant. This plant has been known for millennia as a source of exceptionally stretchy and durable textile fibers, but the psychoactive properties of Cannabis sativa have recently made it harder for farmers to grow this immensely useful plant.

For thousands of years, Cannabis sativa has been bred for two distinct purposes. On the one hand, many generations of growers of this plant have selectively bred it to obtain high levels of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and other psychoactive chemical compounds called cannabinoids. On the other hand, other breeders have consistently bred Cannabis sativa to produce stronger and better fibre, and intentionally reduced the levels of psychoactive cannabinoids produced by their plants.

As a result, two different strains of Cannabis sativa have emerged. It is a myth that hemp is made from the male cannabis sativa plant and psychoactive marijuana from the female plant; In fact, the majority of hemp crops around the world come from female plants. However, female cannabis sativa plants bred for textile purposes are very low in THC and generally lack distinctive, sticky buds.

organic hemp materials

The stalks of the hemp plant consist of two layers: the outer layer is made of rope-like bast fibers, the inner layer consists of a woody pith. Only the outer layer of the Cannabis sativa stem is used for textile purposes; The inner, woody layer is commonly used for fuel, building materials, and animal bedding.

Once the outer layer of bast fibers is stripped from the hemp plant, it can be processed and made into rope or yarn. So strong is hemp rope that it was once the first choice for rigging and sails on seagoing vessels, and it remains known as an excellent material for clothing, outperforming cotton and synthetic textiles on most metrics.

However, with many laws around the world failing to differentiate between THC-rich marijuana and hemp, which contains virtually no THC, the global economy is not reaping the benefits of hemp as much as it could. Instead, people who don’t understand what hemp is stigmatize it as a drug. However, more and more countries are embracing mainstream cultivation of industrial hemp, suggesting that the modern hemp weave renaissance is nearing its peak.

After processing into fabric, hemp has a texture similar to cotton, but also feels somewhat like canvas. Hemp fabric does not shrink and is highly resistant to pilling. Because the fibers of this plant are long and sturdy, hemp fabric is very soft but also very durable; While a typical cotton t-shirt lasts 10 years at most, a hemp t-shirt can last twice or triple that. Some estimates suggest that hemp fabric is three times stronger than cotton fabric.

hemp qualities

In addition, hemp is a lightweight fabric, which means it is highly breathable and also effectively facilitates the transport of moisture from the skin into the atmosphere, making it ideal for hot climates. It is easy to dye this type of fabric and it is highly resistant to mold, mildew and potentially harmful microbes.

Hemp fabric gets softer with every wash and its fibers won’t degrade even after dozens of washes. Since it is also relatively easy to produce organic hemp fabrics sustainably, this textile is ideal for clothing.

Buy high quality and cheap hemp fabrics here. If you are based in the UK you can buy it here.

How is hemp fabric made?

As a cultivated plant, hemp grows well in mild climates with high humidity, and Cannabis sativa plants are typically ready for harvest in North America by mid-August. Most plants used for hemp fabric are harvested using a special machine and these plants are then allowed to roast in the field for 4-6 weeks, which of course facilitates pectin removal from exposure to the elements.

Next, these hemp stalks are baled like hay, and then crushers or a hammer mill are used to separate the fibrous outer part of the plant from its woody core. The separated bast fibers are then carded into strands and cleaned of impurities. After this point, manufacturers can make paper products with pulp, use mats to make mats and nonwovens, or use steam blast to turn raw hemp into a weavable fiber. Once the steam explosion process is complete, hemp can be spun into yarn and woven into textiles.

At this stage, the same processes used to create other fabrics are used to create hemp fabric. Yarn made from this substance is woven into dense fabrics, and these fabrics can be used for a variety of consumer purposes.

Shop a wide range of hemp fabric for the US and the rest of the world here and if you are based in the UK here here and here.

How is hemp fabric used?

The main use of hemp fabric is clothing. In modern history, this type of substance was originally valued primarily as a novelty item for those who were generally enthusiastic about cannabis. While hemp compounds are still very popular within the cannabis subculture, there are now many people around the world who like the compound for its beneficial properties rather than its relationship to marijuana.

Examples of garments commonly made from hemp include dresses, skirts, pants, jackets, t-shirts, hoodies, and children’s clothing. This type of fabric is particularly popular for T-shirts because it is abrasion-resistant. Most cotton t-shirts will begin to warp, shrink, or fall apart after a comparatively few washes, but hemp t-shirts will hold their shape and integrity for years.

In addition, this type of fabric can also be used in a variety of hemp textiles. Again, home textiles made from this substance are more popular with marijuana enthusiasts, but the use of hemp fabrics for tablecloths, upholstery, and tea towels is also becoming more common.

Hemp fabric is particularly popular for use in towels due to its high absorbency and durability. While some consumers choose hemp sheets, one of the minor downsides to this fabric is that it’s not quite as soft as high thread count cotton, meaning it may not be incredibly comfortable to sleep with in direct contact with your skin. On the other hand, the incredible durability of hemp fabric makes it a great material for use in duvets and duvets.

While some hemp fabric purists choose textile products that are 100 percent hemp, it is also common to blend this type of fabric with other textiles. For example, blends of cotton and hemp are popular, and it is also common to combine this textile with silk. Mixing hemp with other fabrics can make this textile softer while remaining durable.

Where is hemp fabric made?

China produces about 70 percent of the world’s production of this textile. However, due to lax labor laws and environmental regulations, it is unclear whether the hemp produced in this country is environmentally safe or non-toxic. Also, only a small portion of the hemp produced in China is made into fabric; the vast majority is processed into fuel, paper or other industrial products.

France is the second largest producer of this crop, followed by Austria, Chile and the United Kingdom. In total, over 30 countries around the world produce industrial hemp, and production of this plant is also on the rise in the United States.

The 2014 federal farm statute permitted the cultivation of industrial hemp for research purposes at the federal level in the United States, and more and more states are taking matters into their own hands and growing this crop for commercial purposes without the express permission of the federal government. In most cases, the states pursuing this agricultural endeavor are the ones that have also legalized recreational marijuana use.

Patagonia Men’s Iron Forge Hemp

While many changes have occurred in the field of hemp cultivation in modern times, this plant has been an integral part of people’s agricultural endeavors since before the dawn of civilization. This plant is believed to have been cultivated for medicinal purposes for at least 10,000 years, meaning it was one of the first plants to be cultivated by humans.

However, the development of hemp fabric did not occur until the beginning of the Iron Age. On the contrary, it was the psychoactive and medicinal properties of this plant that caused its cultivation to spread to Europe and Asia. Hemp was brought to America at the beginning of the colonial period and was already being successfully cultivated in Chile in the 16th century.

Notable figures in American history such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Andrew Jackson were all hemp farmers for industrial purposes, and it wasn’t until the 1930s that cultivation of this plant was stigmatized in the United States. It is possible that major paper and synthetic fabric manufacturers in America feared this textile’s competitive advantage and wrongly linked this fabric to the intoxicant marijuana to make its cultivation taboo.

How much does hemp fabric cost?

Hemp fabric does not inherently cost more to produce than cotton, but a number of market factors have pushed up the cost of this fabric. For example, cotton is produced on a much larger scale than hemp, which means it’s cheaper per volume. Also, since hemp fabric is still a novelty at this point, some retailers are unreasonably inflating the price of this textile.

Handmade backpack made of hemp fabric

Ironically, producing hemp fiber is actually easier and more efficient than producing cotton, and logic dictates that this factor would make hemp fabric cost less than cotton fabric. However, until legislation regarding this textile becomes more reasonable and it is accepted as a mainstream alternative to cotton, this unreasonable price difference is likely to remain.

What are the different types of hemp fabric?

Adidas hemp shoes

There is only one major variety of hemp fabric. While the quality, feel, and texture of this fabric can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, the same basic process is used to create hemp fabrics around the world. The resulting fabric is stronger than cotton, softer than canvas, and durable enough to last for decades.

How does hemp fabric affect the environment?

The production of this fabric is inherently environmentally friendly, as evidenced by the fact that humans have been making hemp fabric for thousands of years without major ecological disasters. However, as hemp fabric continues to be manufactured on an ever-increasing scale, it is unclear whether all manufacturers of this fabric follow the same sustainable cultivation and manufacturing processes necessary to keep the production of hemp fabric environmentally responsible.

In most cases, a landmark 1998 study is cited as the authority on the environmental sustainability of hemp fabrics. The researchers found that the production of this substance requires less land than cotton and also releases fewer toxic substances into the soil and the ecosystem as a whole.

Hemp is also considered a carbon-negative commodity, meaning it absorbs more carbon than it produces. The production of this crop requires very few pesticides and no herbicides. On the other hand, it has been pointed out that the production of hemp may require more nitrogen than the cultivation of cotton.

Hemp fabric certifications available

With new legislation passed in 2016 regarding industrial hemp, it is now possible to have this crop certified organic by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA). It is also possible to have this plant certified organic in the European Union, and there are a few different independent organizations that certify hemp fabric once it has been fully processed.

Another downside to hemp fabrics is that hemp clothing is generally more expensive than other options. While there are a few factors, the main reason hemp clothing is so expensive is that it’s not as mainstream as other options, like cotton.

If you’ve been on the sustainability and eco-lifestyle bandwagon for any length of time, you know that whenever something’s new, it costs a little more. But the more people show interest and support for a product, the lower the cost.

While hemp’s history shows that it has been around since the dawn of agriculture, its reintroduction into our society is fairly recent. Passing the 2018 farm bill that legalized hemp in the US was a big win, but we still have work to do to spread the word about how great hemp clothing is.

What you can do to lower the cost of hemp fabrics may not be exactly what you want to hear, but the answer is: buy more hemp clothing!

Again, this may not be the answer you’re looking for, but remember that hemp is much more durable and stronger than other fibers, meaning your purchases will last longer.

Not to mention that the money you spend makes a difference and has a positive impact on your health and the environment. It’s also always a good idea to follow your favorite hemp clothing brands (hint, hint) on social media and subscribe to emails so you don’t miss any special offers!

Both hemp and cotton have been grown as fiber and food crops for thousands of years. Where they are grown, which crop is more environmentally friendly and which fiber is stronger are all answered below.

hemp

Hemp refers to varieties of the cannabis plant that are grown for industrial and commercial purposes, such as clothing and health foods. It resembles flax, jute or ramie.

The hemp plant is tall and thin, growing 5 to 15 feet tall. It is mainly grown in China, as well as in Europe, South America and North Korea. Only in the last few years has it become legal to grow hemp in the United States.

Cotton

Cotton is a fiber, forage, and food crop native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world. It is used to make a variety of products including clothing, sheets, towels, rope, tarps, tents, cooking oil, shortening, and salad dressing. The flour and husks are used as animal feed, poultry feed, fish feed and fertilizer. Like hemp, cotton is a very versatile plant.

China is currently the world’s largest cotton producer, with India second and the United States third. Cotton is grown in 17 states, mostly in the south. Texas is the leading cotton growing state. Cotton is the most common natural fiber for clothing. Due to its widespread use, cotton tends to be cheaper than hemp.

Properties of hemp vs. cotton fiber

Hemp fabrics are stronger, more absorbent, more durable, and insulate better than cotton. Also, they don’t stretch out of shape. This property makes hemp a perfect upholstery fabric as it can be stretched taut and will remain taut for the life of the furniture. On the other hand, cotton is ideal for t-shirts, jeans, and other garments where some stretch is desired.

Cotton fabric is softer and more comfortable against the skin than hemp fabric. In its natural as-spun state, hemp fibers are rough to the touch and tend to fray. Hemp also has a distinct, naturally occurring smell that some people dislike.

Hemp fibers have a relatively large surface area and are very water-absorbent. This makes the fiber easy to dye and holds its color better than any other fabric, including cotton or linen.

Cotton and hemp blends

Cotton can be mixed very well with hemp. The hemp gives the cotton stability and strength, making the fabric stronger and reducing shrinkage slightly. It also improves dye retention. Note that both cotton and hemp will shrink in the first wash.

History of Hemp Fiber

Historically, hemp (Cannabis sativa) has been widely grown in the West as a source of fiber for textiles and many other fiber products. After the US government banned its psychoactive relative, marijuana, in 1936, hemp all but disappeared from Western markets, and its market share was claimed by cotton and petroleum-derived plastics. Since then, attitudes towards cannabis have become more tolerant and legislation has changed to allow cultivation. In addition, the polluting production processes of cotton and petroleum-derived synthetic fabrics are subject to increased public scrutiny in the face of the looming threat of climate change. Compared to cotton, hemp is higher yielding, more sustainable and more environmentally friendly without sacrificing material performance. With these benefits, hemp shows great potential to return as the leading natural fiber in textiles.

Kentucky Hemp Harvest, Author Unknown – Popular Science Monthly Volume 54

History and production of hemp

The use of hemp can be traced back to 8000 BC. in the Middle East and China, where the fiber was used for textiles, rope and fishing nets, the oil for cosmetic purposes and the seeds for food. Hemp has been used to make high-quality paper for centuries. Today, hemp fibers are woven into clothing, rope, curtains, cordage, carpets, burlap, sacks, shoes, towels, and heavy-duty tarpaulins. Before the introduction of petrochemicals, hemp and other cannabis sativa strains were grown extensively throughout the West to make rope, fabric, canvas, paper, illuminant oil, and medicines. In 1936, fueled in part by misplaced concerns about cannabis use as a drug, the US government banned the production and sale of psychoactive strains of Cannabis sativa. At the same time, a tax was imposed on hemp products even though the plants contained almost no psychoactive compounds, making hemp production unaffordable and ending all commercial cannabis cultivation in the US. Fortunately, continued research on cannabis outside of the US has since used the myths debunked to justify its ban. This revelation has contributed to a pro-cannabis shift in public opinion and state legislation, making industrial-scale hemp production a viable option in many US states.

Hemp fiber is derived from the bast of the hemp plant (sometimes referred to as “industrial hemp”), a specific strain of Cannabis sativa used for fiber production. Depending on the size of the plot, hemp can be harvested by hand or by machine. After harvesting, the hemp stalks are dried in the field before being debarked — the process that isolates the bast fiber and converts it into finished fibers. Debarking begins with roasting, which uses water and microorganisms to break down the organic compounds that hold the bast fibers and shives together. Roasting is followed by scutting, in which the bast fibers are mechanically separated from the shives. The resulting bast fiber bundles are enzymatically freed from all unwanted residues (pectin, waxes, etc.) through a process called degumming. Finally, the degummed fiber is dried and passed through an opener to further separate and parallelize the fibers in preparation for spinning.

Composition and performance of hemp

The fiber composition and morphology of hemp make it an ideal alternative to cotton and synthetics in many ways. Hemp’s most notable functional advantage over cotton is its superior toughness. Like all cellulosic fibers, hemp fiber consists primarily of cellulose (60-70%), but also contains 15-20% hemicellulose (and .5% lignin, pectin, fats, and waxes). Hemp fibers are uniquely long compared to other natural fibers. Interspersing branched hemicellulose fibers among cellulose fibers forms an interwoven cellulosic-hemicellulose fiber network. The network formed by these long fibers serves as an additional reinforcement for hemp spun yarn that is not observed in cotton spun yarn. This property contributes to the strength of Ravenox ropes made from a natural hemp blend.

Hemp is also more absorbent and breathable than cotton, and more so than petroleum-based plastics, particularly due to the interstices within the cellulose-hemicellulose fiber network. This quality also better supports the dyeing of hemp, as it requires fewer pre- and post-treatments compared to other natural fibers. Hemicellulose branches make hemp rope less abrasion resistant, but this quality also allows hemp to acquire a soft, brushed fiber feel over time, a desirable trait in many textile applications. Another unique benefit of hemp is its natural richness in cannabinoids (non-psychoactive) and terpenes, whose antimicrobial activity is well documented.

Hemp’s low elongation (percentage of elongation) makes twisting hemp yarns a challenge for even the most experienced rope engineer. However, this quality makes hemp desirable for applications where “stretch” is a barrier to product performance, such as boat sails and upholstery. Ravenox has mastered the art of hemp yarn by specifically modifying hemp fibers and formulating proprietary blends with one or more other fiber types.

Sustainability and cost of hemp

Hemp is considered a carbon negative crop because it absorbs more CO2 than it produces per crop cycle. In addition, hemp produces more fiber per hectare in less time and with less water compared to cotton. Hemp is significantly less demanding than cotton and can grow in a wider range of climates and soil types. The hemp plant’s rapid growth and dense canopy serves as its own weed suppressant, eliminating the need for herbicides. In short, industrial hemp production is hypothetically a more profitable fiber crop than cotton.

Unlike cotton, the hemp plant provides many raw materials that are valuable to non-textile industries. The shives and tow fibers are used, for example, for building materials and biocomposites. Volkswagen, Mazda, Mercedes and other auto industry giants use hemp biocomposites to manufacture interior components and/or body panels of their cars. In fact, a typical C-Class Mercedes Benz contains over 30 parts made from hemp and other natural fibers. Compared to their geotextile and petroleum-derived predecessors, hemp biocomposites exhibit higher tensile strength and scratch resistance with a greener lifecycle. In addition, hemp biocomposites are lighter, which reduces the fuel consumption and emissions of vehicles built from them.

The examples presented here prove that hemp can fulfill many of the same roles as its cotton and petroleum-derived counterparts. This contributes to the diversity of hemp’s usable material yield, which provides additional outlets for all hemp producers.

The cotton plant

Cotton is a shrubby plant that belongs to the mallow family. Its name refers to the off-white, fluffy fibers surrounding small cotton seeds called bolls. The small, sticky seeds must be separated from the wool in order to process the cotton for spinning and weaving. Cored cotton is cleaned, carded (fibers aligned), spun and woven into a fabric also known as cotton. Cotton is easy to spin into yarn because the cotton fibers flatten, twist, and naturally intertwine to spin. Cotton fabrics alone account for half of the fibers worn worldwide. It’s a comfortable choice for warm climates as it easily absorbs skin moisture. Most of the cotton grown in the United States is a short-staple cotton that grows in the American South. Cotton is planted annually using the seeds found in downy wool. The states that grow primarily cotton are in the “Cotton Belt” which runs east and west and includes parts of California, Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Arizona, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, New Mexico, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina includes , Tennessee and Texas producing nearly five million bales alone. Together, these states produce about 16 million bales a year, second only to China. Business revenues generated from cotton today are approximately $122.4 billion – the highest revenues of any US crop. The leading cotton producing counties in North Carolina where Ravenox is headquartered include Northampton, Halifax, Edgecombe, Martin, Bertie, Lenoir, Sampson, Pitt, Wilson and Wayne counties.

The cotton plant is a source of many important products other than fabrics. Among the most important are cottonseed, which is pressed into cottonseed oil, which is used in commercial products such as salad oils and snack foods, cosmetics, soaps, candles, cleaning products, and paints. The husks and flour are used as animal feed. Cotton is also a source of cellulosic products, fertilizers, fuel, automotive tire cord, pressed paper and cardboard.

Cotton – From field to bale

Cottonseed is planted mechanically by machines every spring on land cleared by mechanical cultivators. The seed needs to be placed shallower in dusty, cool areas of the cotton belt and deeper in warmer areas. With good soil moisture and warm temperatures at planting, seedlings typically sprout five to seven days after planting, with a full cotton stand appearing by about 11 days.

About six weeks after the seedlings appear, “squares” or flower buds begin to form. The buds take three weeks to mature and then bloom into creamy yellow flowers that turn pink, then red, and then fall off just three days after flowering. After the flower has fallen off, a tiny ovary remains on the cotton plant. This ovary matures and enlarges into a green pod called a cotton boll.

The seed pod matures over a period of 55 to 80 days. During this time, the football-shaped capsule grows and moist fibers push the newly formed seeds outward. As the seed pod matures, it remains green. The fibers continue to expand under the warm sun, with each fiber growing to its full length—about 6.4 cm (2.5 inches)—in three weeks. For almost six weeks, the fibers thicken and layers of cellulose build up the cell walls. Ten weeks after the flowers first appear, fibers split the capsule and cream-colored cotton pushes out. The wet fibers dry in the sun and the fibers collapse and twist, giving the appearance of a ribbon. Each capsule contains three to five “cells”, each of which has about seven seeds embedded in the fibre.

At this point the cotton plant is defoliated when it is to be mechanically harvested. Defoliation (removal of leaves) is often accomplished by spraying the plant with a chemical. It is important that leaves are not harvested with the fiber as they are considered “garbage” and will eventually need to be removed. Additionally, removing the leaves minimizes fiber discoloration and eliminates a source of excess moisture. Some American crops are naturally defoliated by frost, but at least half of the crops require chemical defoliation. Without defoliation, the cotton must be handpicked, with workers removing the leaves as they work.

Harvesting is done by machine in the United States, with a single machine replacing 50 hand pickers. Two mechanical systems are used in the cotton harvest. The picking system uses wind and guides to pull the cotton from the plant, often leaving the leaves and the rest of the plant behind. The stripper system shreds the plant and uses air to separate the waste from the cotton. Most American cotton is harvested with pickers. Pickers must be used after the morning dew has dried and must be terminated when dew forms again at the end of the day. Moisture detectors are used to ensure that the moisture content is not higher than 12% or the cotton cannot be successfully harvested and stored. Not all cotton matures at the same time, and harvesting can occur in waves, with a second and third pick.

How cotton is processed in factories

Once the cotton is harvested with a cotton picker and packed into large containers that form a so-called module. These modules are filled with dirt and shipped to a factory or the Cotton Gin where the cotton can be cleaned. All sticks, burrs and remaining residue are removed and the cotton goes through the cleaning process. The cotton is dried and the cleaning process continued until the fluff is separated from the seeds and bagged for shipment to a factory that further processes the raw cotton and turns it into useful cotton yarn.

cotton by-products and waste

There is much debate about the amount of chemicals used in cotton growing. It is currently estimated that growers use an average of 5.3 ounces (151 g) of chemicals to produce one pound of processed cotton. Cotton farming is responsible for 25% of all chemical pesticides used on American crops. Unfortunately, cotton attracts many pests (especially the weevil) and is susceptible to a range of rot and staining, and chemicals are used to keep these under control. There are concerns about poisoning from wildlife and toxins that linger in the soil long after cotton is grown (although no heavy metals are used in the chemicals). As a result, some farmers have turned to growing organic cotton. Organic farming uses biological control to rid cotton of pests and specifically alters planting patterns to reduce the use of fungicides. Although this cultivation method is possible, an organically grown crop generally yields less usable cotton. This means that an organic farmer must buy, plant, and harvest more acreage to obtain enough processed cotton to make the crop lucrative, or otherwise reduce costs to make a profit. Increasingly, state university advisory services are working with cotton farmers to reduce chemical use by applying certain aspects of biological control to reduce toxins remaining on land and entering water systems.

environmental influences

Cotton is a very water and pesticide intensive crop. It has a much higher environmental cost than hemp, which requires fewer pesticides or fertilizers and no herbicides. Hemp requires much less water, grows very quickly (70 to 110 days) and uses minimal nutrients from the soil. Hemp plant roots aerate the soil, leaving it rich for future harvests. Hemp will produce 1500 pounds of fiber per acre while cotton will only produce 500 pounds per acre!

Hemp and the future of textiles

Hemp is a stronger, more durable, more useful and important part of environmental sustainability and also a crucial part of healing our planet as hemp increases the microbial levels in the soil in which it grows. Hemp also prevents weeds from sprouting nearby. Its thick roots prevent soil rot.

This super plant can provide our planet with many of the materials we need every day while sustaining the well-being of our planet far more than cotton ever could.

You can crochet with anything that even remotely resembles yarn, including hemp. Hemp yarn is a good choice for people who want to crochet items that have a natural air and organic feel. Today I have a roundup of beautiful hemp crochet items that I hope will inspire you to try this side of the craft. At the end of the post are some resources on how to find and use hemp yarn.

1. Hemp crochet shoes

One of the most popular things to make with hemp yarn seems to be crocheted shoes. I would imagine it’s because the hemp is durable enough to walk around. The ones shown above are a pattern by Brenda K.B. Anderson, featured in the Summer 2012 issue of Interweave Crochet Magazine.

2. Hemp crochet baskets

The sturdiness of hemp yarn makes it a great choice for crochet baskets to use around the home. This one made from hemp yarn is sold on Etsy by GMaEllenCrochetGifts.

3. Hemp crochet photo art

Artist Kathyanne White makes beautiful photographic work showing the texture of crocheted hemp combined with paper. Learn more about the process in her contribution to this piece.

4. Hemp crochet bracelets

One of the simplest crochet projects people commonly do with hemp yarn is making bracelets. I love this modern version that uses yellow hemp yarn lined with cotton for a softer feel against the skin than traditional hemp bracelets. It is sold on Etsy by ClaraUnzen. For a more traditional look, you could use something like this Hemp Beaded Crochet Bracelet from MplusL:

5. Hemp crochet necklace

Take the same skills that go into crochet bracelets and you can easily apply them to make crocheted necklaces. Etsy’s WhateverWorks used a soft hemp for this crochet necklace as it’s obviously next to skin.

6. Hemp Crochet Container

Make small containers for your home to store all your craft supplies. This is one of a series made by LissaBee Creations using hemp cord.

7. Hemp Crochet Hat

We’ve seen hemp crochet hats here on the blog before. In fact, they are very popular. This is the Flowerpot Hat, a free crochet pattern on Ravelry made with 100% hemp yarn. Getting the pattern is a bit confusing…you need to go to Ravelry, follow the link, click knit-o-matic under patterns, search for the flower pot hat, and then add it to your cart. You have to checkout, but it’s free.

8. Hemp and crochet whip

If you are one of the many people who are lured into reading 50 Shades of Gray then this might be something for you. No, actually this piece is an artwork by CrochetAvantgardist Ty Tham. It combines crochet with other techniques including swaddling and Peruvian hemp.

9. Crochet hemp bike basket

The pattern for this cute crochet bike basket was featured in the Spring 2012 issue of Interweave Crochet. I should add it to my list of crochet things cyclists need!

10. Reusable Crochet Tampons

Yes, there are. The ones in the photo are cotton, but the manufacturer says “a much better yarn would be unbleached 4ply hemp” because hemp crochet tampons are compostable and therefore super eco-friendly. I confess I almost felt the need to change the title of this post because I personally don’t find reusable tampons adorable, but to each their own!

11. Crochet tote bags made from hemp

We are well past the “paper or plastic?” era. Reusable bags are the most popular choice these days. Crochet hemp bags like these are eco-friendly because they’re reusable and because they don’t live long in landfills once you’re done with them. This one is made from undyed hemp and is sold on Etsy by BeenAndDone.

12. Mixed media art

This artwork by Gooseflesh combines hemp crochet with found driftwood for natural mixed media art.

13. Book Covers

Whether it’s your old-fashioned handwritten journal or your new-fangled Kindle, a hemp crochet cover will protect your words. This one was made by Why Not Eight.

14. Hemp cutlery basket

Especially ideal for a vegan home! This is a free crochet pattern worked with a yarn that is a blend of hemp, linen and viscose.

15. Crochet light capsules

These lights are the Luminous Pods; The crochet pattern can be found in Unexpected Crochet for the Home. They are made from a combination of cotton yarn and hemp yarn.

16. Cozy crochet hemp jar

If you’ve recycled a few mismatched jars and want them to look like a set, then some crocheted jar warmers might be what you need. This is from a set over at Outside My Window.

17. Crochet apron/top

This is a crochet apron that can double as a cover up for everyday wear. It is crocheted from 100% hemp yarn and is therefore ideal for sustainability-oriented people. The pattern is available online at CrochetMe.

18. Crochet Hemp Belt

This seems to be a great addition to many summer outfits. This one is sold by Etsy’s TANGLeAndFoLd.

19. Bag for crocheted hemp yoga mats

This just seems like a useful product! The PDF pattern for this hemp yoga bag is sold through Etsy by bohoknits.

20. Hemp crochet with aluminum strips

This cute bag set combines two styles of niche crochet in one: hemp crochet and aluminum pop tab crochet. It’s from Etsy’s PopTopLady.

Hemp Crochet Resources

Here are some places where you can find hemp yarn:

Hemp Basics. This online spot for all things hemp has hemp twine in various counts. The great thing is that it tells you what craft the type is best for in the product descriptions.

compostable goods. This eco-friendly website sells 1-pound hemp yarn cones suitable for knitting and crochet projects.

lanaknits This site offers hemp yarn specifically for knitting and crocheting. They have 100% hemp yarn as well as hemp blends. This is a good choice if you want hemp yarn that is dyed and not purely natural.

WEB. You can buy some hemp blend yarns from WEBS, including Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy, a cotton-hemp blend.

Martha Stewart hemp cotton blend yarn. I believe this is sold at JoAnn’s and available through Lion Brand.

Hemp Yarn on Etsy. There are several Etsy sellers that carry hemp yarn and twine. Start with hempCRAFT, Hemp Hutt, and CrochetMushroom. The latter specializes in recycled sari silk yarn, but also has some hemp yarn.

And here are some tips and articles for getting started with hemp crocheting:

And finally, here are some free hemp crochet patterns for beginners:

What inspires you to crochet with hemp?

The obvious answer to this question is the size you want. You can really use any yarn weight you want and use non-yarn items as well. However, if you are new to weaving, choosing yarns for your weave can be daunting, so I will share with you my top recommendations.

First, let’s talk yarn size or weight. The weight of a yarn describes how thick or thin the thread is spun. Some yarns are described by their weight name, some by their weight number, some by both, and some by neither. Here is the order of yarn weights from thinnest to thickest:

0 – peak weight

1 – finger weight

2 – Sports

3 – DK (double knit)

4 – worsted yarn

5 – Bulky

6 – Super bulky

The bulky yarns speed up your weaving but also show off your warp. If you want a tighter weave that doesn’t show the warp, I recommend using a DK or worsted yarn.

Combining yarns is also a great way to add texture and interest to your weave. You could weave some lace weight shapes into your weave, then weave in worsted weight and add some bulk to add some depth and interest to your weave. You can also grab more than one thread of yarn and pull them through your weave as if they were one. You can combine 6 lace weight yarns and weave in as one yarn, or combine a worsted weight and a bulky weight to weave in as one. I sometimes combine multiple strands of worsted yarn to make a bulky weight strand. In the picture above, I use the same off-white yarn throughout the weave. I vary between just one skein of yarn and four skeins of yarn used together. In the image below I’ve combined a gray super bulky yarn with a matching gray worsted yarn to add a little more detail and texture.

My best recommendation is to experiment to see what you like. Make some mini weaves or just jump into a big weave.

My yarn weight is a DK or this worsted weight. What is your preferred yarn weight? Have you tried combining yarn weights for texture? As always, I look forward to hearing from you.

If you’re wondering what yarn to warp your loom with, find out in this post here.

Happy weaving!

Kate

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Choosing warp yarns depends on a few factors – the loom you are working on, how many threads per inch (epi) your project requires and the end use of your textile. All warp yarns suggested below can also be used as weft in weaving. We’ve also created this guide to choosing a weft yarn.

What makes a good warp yarn?

A good warp yarn must be strong so that it will not break under tension on the loom. It must also be smooth and without much texture or stretch, especially when worked on a rigid heddle or ground loom. On a floor loom, the warp is threaded through heddle and the reed and is subjected to friction as the cloth is knocked down and moved forward. If the warp yarn has nubs, loops, or an uneven texture, it can get caught in the reeds or break over time. When a yarn is elastic or stretchy, it can create tension issues that create irregularities in your woven textile.

the exception to the rule:

Using a slub yarn for warping bends the requirements of a good warp yarn as it has an uneven texture and is not smooth. Some fancy yarns still don’t lend themselves to warping, but if spun tightly and made with warping in mind, the effect will withstand friction. We have outlined some of these acceptable yarns below.

The strength test:

If you need to test a yarn to see if it’s strong enough to pucker, you can break the yarn firmly between two hands and see if it breaks easily. If the twine doesn’t break immediately, it should be good for warping.

What does “epi” stand for?

The epi refers to how many individual warp ends end up in 1 inch of your fabric. Ends per inch can also be referred to as a sett, which is determined by the size of yarn you pucker with and subsequently the size of the reed you use on the loom. For example, if you have an Epi of 12, use a 12 Dent blade. The higher your Epi, the finer your yarn will be – which also usually results in a denser and stronger fabric. A soft and draped scarf might use 8/4 cotton and have an Epi of 12, while a finely woven linen tea towel might have an Epi of 24. We make these handy epi counter keychains to help you determine the epi of a warp for different size yarns, but you can use a ruler too. You can find answers to other frequently asked questions about weaving here.

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When imagining a luxury tablecloth fabric, linen might be your first thought. Natural, durable and environmentally friendly. But a worthy competitor emerges to challenge Linen for the top spot. Hemp. Yes .. hemp!

A quick overview of hemp and linen

Linen and hemp are both natural fibers that have been cultivated for centuries. These versatile materials were made into everything from clothing and bedding to rope, fishing nets and even paper.

Linen fabric is made from the fibers in the stalks of the flax plant. Other parts of the plant are used for flaxseed and flaxseed oil.

Think hemp and marijuana come from the same plant? Not correct. The hemp plant used for the substance is Cannabis sativa and is a completely different plant than marijuana. Hemp tissue is formed from the outer fibers of the plant’s stem.

Whether you choose linen or hemp, both have significant advantages over synthetics like polyester and also outperform other natural fibers like cotton.

What do linen and hemp have in common?

Did you know that the very first pair of Levis were made from hemp? And did you know that hemp was grown near and around the Chernobyl nuclear disaster to draw radioactive elements out of the soil? Derived from the cannabis sativa plant, hemp fiber is known for its durability and robustness. In its raw state, hemp fibers are yellow-grey to deep brown. Before Levis Strauss’s ingenious use of hemp to make his first pair of jeans, hemp was primarily used as an industrial fiber, but soon became popular in the textile world after being used in those first pair of jeans.

In tombs dating back to 8,000 BC. materials made from hemp were discovered. Hemp was mainly used to make sails and ropes for ships. In fact, the ships on which Christopher Columbus sailed to America in the 14th century were hemp-rigged. It is now widely recognized as a sustainable fabric that is exceptionally strong. Hemp therefore finds various uses ranging from eco-fashion clothing to household decorations.

Hemp is a fiber with numerous benefits. As a crop, it grows extremely fast and provides more fiber than cotton or flax. It’s a hardy plant that doesn’t need toxic pesticides or fertilizers. Hemp controls top soil erosion and even makes the soil fertile for subsequent crops.

production of hemp

Hemp reaches maturity quickly, and plants reach a height of two to four meters in 80 to 120 days. It can be densely packed in fields with up to 150 plants per square meter of soil. Being naturally pest resistant, it can be grown organically without the aid of chemicals.

The sequence of steps to be followed from the moment hemp is ready to harvest:

The plant is harvested during the early to mid flowering stage. Running cutter bars 4 to 5 feet off the ground harvest both the hemp fiber and seeds. The stalk is then cut and pressed into bales. The hemp fibers are separated by roasting, which is the process of breaking down pectin that binds the hemp fibers to the core of the stalk. Roasting separates the long bast fibers from the fiber-free parts of the stalks. This is done either with chemicals such as enzymes or through natural physical methods such as field and water roasting. Once the fibers are separated, they are spun together to create a long and continuous yarn.

Harvesting the hemp plant: The straw is cut when the plants are in full bloom and shedding pollen. In Manitoba, this is usually mid-August. The stems are cut a few weeks later, once their color has changed from green to white or brown.

At this point, the long filament yarns can then be twisted together in hundreds of different ways and woven or knitted together into fabric. The fibers can also be blended with other fibers such as cotton and silk to create a fabric with different properties. Typically, the fabric is then washed and shrunk to allow the fabric to stretch. A fabric made entirely of hemp can usually be quite stiff and heavy. It can feel abrasive against the skin and therefore needs to be softened before being used in clothing. Chemical softening methods include processing with caustic soda or acid rinses. The organic method uses sophisticated combing technologies and also biodegradable fabric softening solutions. If the yarns have not been previously dyed, the fabric is dyed and stabilized with an anti-shrink treatment. This also creates a finished appearance.

For a more in-depth look at industrial hemp production, I recommend checking out this page written by the government of Manitoba, Canada. The content is specific to the Manitoba climate, but the processes are generally the same around the world.

Pros and cons of hemp fabric

ADVANTAGES

Hemp is a superior fiber that holds its shape and is incredibly strong. Like linen, hemp softens over time. It is porous and therefore water-absorbent. Hemp is a breathable fabric that can keep us warm in winter and cool in summer. It is particularly well suited to hot climates as it is heat resistant and less prone to fading. A particularly unique benefit of this fiber is that it effectively blocks UV rays. UV rays are a major cause of cancer so anything that helps fight this is great. It is hypoallergenic and therefore suitable for people with sensitive skin. Hemp accepts dyes well and has a naturally high luster – it’s possible to make hemp fabrics that really luster, like this hemp-silk charmeuse (pictured below). Finally, the fiber is fully biodegradable upon disposal.

DISADVANTAGE

A defining feature of hemp is its abrasive nature. As a result, it does not feel soft on the skin. However, it can be blended with other fibers to give it a soft hand. Garments made entirely of hemp tend to wrinkle easily because, like linen, elastic recovery is very poor. Another thing to keep in mind is that while hemp fiber resists degradation in heat, it can be attacked by fungus and bacteria in hot and humid conditions. Mold rots and weakens the material. This can be avoided by impregnating the fabric with chemicals such as copper nepthenate.

Hemp: environmental benefits

Hemp helps detoxify and regenerate the soil where it is grown. Aside from the natural benefits of falling leaves, which replenish the soil with nutrients, nitrogen, and oxygen, hemp roots absorb and dissipate the energy of rain and runoff, protecting fertilizer, soil, and keeping seeds in place. Even more amazing, it can pull nuclear toxins out of the ground too! As I mentioned earlier, hemp was actually planted around the site of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster to help clean up the polluted sites. This process is called phyto-remediation. Phyto-remediation can be used to remove nuclear elements and remove metals, pesticides, solvents, crude oil and other toxins from landfills. Hemp breaks down pollutants and stabilizes metal contaminants by acting as a filter. Hemp proves to be one of the best phytosanitary plants you can find.

The minimal use of a hemp plant is in its use as a crop rotation. Because hemp stabilizes and enriches the soil on which farmers grow crops, giving them weed-free fields without the expense of herbicides, it has value even if no part of the plant is harvested and used. Any industry or monetary benefit in excess of this value is a bonus. Rotating hemp with soy reduces soy-depleting parasites without any chemical use.

Hemp can grow in any agronomic system and in any climate. All hemp products are fully biodegradable, recyclable, and hemp is a reusable resource in any form: pulp, fiber, protein, cellulose, oil, or biomass. Additionally, it doesn’t need any herbicides, pesticides, fungicides, or insecticides to grow well, as it’s its own fertilizer, herbicide, and pesticide—since it’s technically a weed. Hemp plants only need 10 to 13 inches of water to grow to 8 to 15 feet in three to four months — that’s a third of the amount needed for cotton.

This only scratches the surface of hemp’s environmental benefits. If you want to know more, I recommend that you also look at this PDF.

Hemp: The ideal eco-fashion solution

From the various properties of hemp we can easily conclude that it is a substance with excellent sustainability potential. The harvest is not only organic, but also cheap and environmentally friendly in almost every way. Unlike non-organic cotton, which contributes immensely to pollution, energy and water consumption, hemp is environmentally friendly and even benefits the soil and air where it is grown.

It is important to note that the processing techniques used during the softening, purification, and refinement of hemp can involve chemicals. Synthetic dyes containing heavy metals can be used for coloring, and chlorine is commonly used in the purification stage. Chemical processing with strong caustic soda and acid rinses are the techniques used to improve softness and clean the fiber.

At Offset Warehouse we are incredibly diligent when it comes to sourcing all of our fabrics. Our hemp fabrics are bleached with peroxide bleach and softened with cationic, water-soluble bleaches. All of our dyes are fibre-reactive, impact-resistant dyes. We use a closed-loop system to manufacture the fabrics and any water present in the factory must be purified using a government-approved purification system. All our factories have social benefits. For example, the unit that makes our hemp-silk charmeuse provides its workers with paid maternity leave, housing owned by the retired workers (similar to the American Social Security system), childcare, health care, and schooling up to the age of six for their children.

The possibilities for hemp as a fabric have yet to be fully uncovered. This versatile crop has immense potential to rise as an ideal fashion choice for interiors and clothing. Why not explore the interesting possibilities this high-quality fabric opens up in your own work? By choosing this unusual fiber with such immense environmental benefits, you are passing these incredible, long-lasting benefits on to your own customers, while creating a more sustainable business for yourself in the process.

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Something funny happened to hemp in the 20th century. After hemp was cultivated for centuries in North America for its fibers used in rope and textile manufacture, hemp was banned in the United States because it is made from one of the same plant species (Cannabis sativa) as marijuana. She fell victim to the War on Drugs.

But hemp was actually a “North America staple” even before colonization, and cultivation continued through World War II. Scholar Dirk Hildebrandt focuses on Wisconsin and describes the state’s “forgotten hemp crop.”

The federal war hemp program went all out with slogans like “hemp for victory.”

By 1918, Wisconsin had nine hemp mills, “nearly double the number in the rest of the country combined.” Innovative collaborations between federal and state agricultural agencies, University of Wisconsin scientists, and farmers themselves helped the state become a national leader in hemp cultivation and production by the 1920s.

World War II created a huge demand for domestic hemp, particularly for naval cordage, when foreign fiber supplies were cut off. The federal war hemp program went all out with slogans like “hemp for victory.” In Wisconsin, wartime labor shortages meant migrant workers were pulled from Texas and Mexico to harvest crops. Even German prisoners of war were employed in the state hemp mills.

But by the end of the war, the federal government dropped all interest in hemp production. Cheaper foreign fibers came back into the country. Hemp’s association with illegal marijuana grew. In 1950, Wisconsin’s crop had no buyers. The last hemp mill in the state closed in 1957. In 1970, the Controlled Substances Act, establishing a new reign of state drug policy, established hemp down as a Schedule 1 controlled substance, along with heroin and LSD.

But despite being botanically the same species, hemp and marijuana are different. They were cultured to do very different things. This was recognized by the 2014 Farm Bill, which reinstated industrial hemp production after nearly half a century. Between 2013 and 2018, hemp production in participating states, including Wisconsin, grew from 0 to over 90,000 acres. Production in 2020 was 465,787 acres.

Industrial hemp is defined as a non-medicinal strain of Cannabis sativa with 0.3% delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) or less. THC is the psychoactive component in marijuana. A plant with more than 0.3% THC is still illegal under federal law.

Another component of Cannabis sativa in all its forms is cannabidiol, better known as CBD. CBD can legally be used in products that are not regulated by the FDA. The perceived, mostly untested, health benefits of CBD have propelled hemp production in the United States and around the world.

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Like corn, hemp has many uses. Rope, textiles, and paper are traditional, but hemp stalks can also be used for insulation, compost, pet bedding, and fiberboard. There is even a hemp-based concrete substitute called hempcrete or hemplime. Hemp seeds are used for edible flour, hemp milk, cooking oil and beer, and as a dietary supplement. The seeds are a rich source of omega-3 and omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are essential for human health. Personal care products, biofuels, and paints and varnishes are other uses of hemp seed oil.

In other words, hemp is back. After all, in the five thousand year history of hemp cultivation on Earth, half a century of prohibition doesn’t seem very long.

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Before we begin: No, I’m not asking you to knit with marijuana! Although both are cannabis sativa plants, hemp only contains trace amounts of THC and you cannot use it to get high. This misunderstood fiber has a history of unfounded hate and distrust, but the truth is that hemp is an incredibly beneficial plant that makes for a great eco-friendly yarn. You can knit, crochet and even spin with it!

There are two reasons hemp makes such great clothing and yarns: its length and its strength. Fiber diameter ranges from 16 to 50 microns (wool, another very useful fiber, ranges from 16 to 40 microns). Hemp is an excellent heat conductor, dries well, resists mold and has natural antibacterial properties. And it’s an incredibly versatile plant—the seeds, the oil, and the fiber are all usable.

Hemp goes into everyday products like flour, fiber, snack foods, plant-based milk, fuel, cleaning supplies, paint, fabric, insulation, paper, and even mulch. But the greatness of hemp doesn’t end there – here’s what using hemp yarn really means.

1. Helping the Earth.

Processing hemp fiber does not require chlorine, which forms dioxins (chemicals that are very persistent in our environment).

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2. Be mindful and responsible with our water consumption.

Hemp doesn’t require a lot of water to grow, especially when compared to animal and even other plant fibers.

3. Sustainable land use.

Hemp has a high area yield ratio; For example, a single hectare of usable hemp fiber is equivalent to 2 hectares of cotton.

4. Durable and wearable products.

Hemp yarn will not shrink, stretch or pill and will get softer with every wash.

5. The freedom of choice.

Long gone are the days when only white and brown hemp yarns were used – now there are so many colors to choose from!

Now that you’re as obsessed with this guilt-free yarn as I am, let’s spread the word and smash the stupid scars of hemp!

happy knitting,

Sarah

(Originally published April 20, 2018; updated April 19, 2019.)

Knitting with linen

If you’ve been knitting with wool for a while and are about to start a project with linen – be prepared. Knitting with linen is a whole different experience!

This post may contain affiliate links. Please see my full disclosure for more information.

In this article I will cover everything you need to know about linen yarn.

Be sure to read #8 to find out how to knit with linen yarn.

#1. What is linen yarn?

Linen is a strong, durable fiber from the flax plant. This fiber, which has been around for thousands of years, is three times stronger than cotton and second only to silk.

It is made by extracting the long cellulose fibers from the center of this tall, thin plant. Once harvested, it is one of the most laborious yarns to manufacture.

Linen is perfect for knitting spring and summer clothes because of its absorbency and drape. The long linen fibers have a natural wax coating that gives a beautiful shine to finished projects.

Other wonderful properties of flax yarn are that it is anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.

#2. Flax Yarn vs Linen Yarn: Is There a Difference?

This is a frequently asked question. There is no difference between flax and linen.

Flax (Linum usitatissimum) is the name of the plant and linen is the name of the fiber produced by the plant. The words are sometimes used interchangeably to describe either the yarn or the plant.

#3. What is wetspun linen?

There are three main ways natural linen yarn is spun: wet spun, semi-wet spun, or dry spun. Wet-spun is typically used for the finest longest linen fibers, while semi-wet and dry-spun methods are used to produce yarns with short fiber lengths.

A longer filament gives an extremely smooth yarn, while a short filament creates a more rustic feel and a thicker finished filament.

Linen strands can also be twisted to create a thicker yarn. For example, a fingering gauge yarn may be only 1 skein, while to make a sport or dk gauge yarn, 3 or 4 skeins may be plied together to make yarns for those gauges.

#4. How to make linen yarn softer and less stiff?

One of the characteristics of 100% linen yarn is that it is stiff. In the skein of yarn and knitting it feels like it’s not going to be very soft against the skin.

Surprisingly it will be! With laundering (see instructions below), linen will soften over time, offering soft yet crisp stitches that feel cool and refreshing against the skin – just what you want for warm weather!

Note: Linen is said to be a little crispy; this is part of the nature and beauty of this fiber.

#5. How do you wash linen knitwear?

There are two recommended ways to wash linen knits – hand wash or machine wash. Be sure to check the yarn label for care instructions when working with a linen blend yarn.

How to wash your laundry for best results.

Wash your hands

Fill the sink or small tub with warm water

Add a small amount of Soak Wash (available on Amazon) or knitted garment detergent

Squeeze gently (do not wring or twist)

Wrap in a towel and squeeze to remove excess water

Lay flat to dry

machine wash

Believe it or not, linen is even stronger when wet and it can withstand the hustle and bustle of a washing machine. Many knitters (including myself) find that using a washing machine softens linen and improves the drape.

Wash with similar colors in a normal load

Tumble dry on normal heat

Remove while garment is still slightly damp

Lay flat for the rest of the drying process

#6. Blocking Linen Yarn

Most experienced knitters will tell you that linen doesn’t need to be blocked the way wool or blended yarns do.

When blocking with an iron, be careful not to let the iron touch the stitches. Not because linen can’t take the heat, but because you don’t want to smooth out the stitches.

If you follow the washing instructions above (either hand wash or machine wash) and lay flat to dry, blocking the wash should do the trick.

Do you prefer to block traditionally with a blocking board and pins? I recommend using wet block or modified wet block and then pinning in shape and letting dry.

#7. Why is linen good for summer?

If you want to stay cool in hot weather, you can’t wear anything better than linen! Linen is naturally thermo-regulating, so it keeps you cool by absorbing and wicking moisture away from the body.

Imagine you are sitting by the pool or on the beach working on a knitting project. A linen knit on your lap will keep you much cooler than draping a wool garment over your legs. It’s my favorite thing to knit for when I’m outside in the summer heat!

Linen is light, open and airy. You can wear it next to the skin or layer it over a tank top or t-shirt.

Linen knit is also easy to care for, making it ideal for holiday or travel wear.

Since moving to Southern California, I now wear linen nine months out of the year!

#8th. How to knit with linen yarn

As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, working with linen is completely different than knitting with wool.

Linen is inelastic. It doesn’t have the bounce, give, or springiness of wool (or a wool blend). That doesn’t mean it’s terrible to work with – it just means you need to adjust your expectations and know it won’t behave like wool.

If you decide to install insulation in your home, you need to research all the products available, look for a reputable company, and buy the best one.

If you’re looking for more money in your pocket, insulation is the only investment that offers guaranteed returns. Not only does it help you reduce your energy bills, but it also significantly increases the value of your home.

Hemp insulation is a type of insulation that is rapidly gaining popularity. This article explains everything you need to know about hemp isolation, including what it is and how it compares to more popular types.

What is hemp insulation?

Hemp insulation is made from hemp wool. Hemp wool is made from wood and strong fibers extracted from a hemp plant. Hemp insulation contains about 92 percent hemp and about eight percent polyester fibers. Fire treatment and non-toxic binders make up the rest of the composite.

Hemp insulation can also be braided with polyester, flax, or kenaf fibers used as binders. Hemp insulation is usually bought in batts. These fleeces are made from the inner fibrous layer of the hemp plant and are 3.5 to 5.5 inches thick.

Hemp insulation is considered a replacement for foam and fiberglass – an alternative that has significantly less impact on the environment during the manufacturing process. Additionally, since hemp is a plant product, hemp insulation offers organic benefits when used.

Hemp Insulation – Ecological Benefits

America has been making hemp insulation since about 2018. This makes it relatively new to the market. Still, there’s valid reason to believe that hemp insulation can outperform fiberglass and take its place as the industry leader.

Hemp is not just a plant; It is also considered a cover or catch crop, meaning it is planted to improve soil health by suppressing weed growth and minimizing reliance on herbicides.

Hemp’s nutrient requirements differ from wheat, which helps improve overall soil structure through the addition of potassium and nitrates.

Its long taproot grows deep into the ground, loosening compressed soil and providing a much better water table. Also, she grows fairly quickly and doesn’t require much space to produce either.

Remember that a single acre of hemp can produce seven hundred pounds of grain. In addition, it has a turnaround time of just 70 days, from planting to harvest.

Hemp is a crop, making it a renewable and sustainable product. It can easily grow in different conditions as it requires minimal amounts of water. Plus, it doesn’t rely on artificial irrigation, meaning hemp can grow entirely without the use of herbicides or chemical pesticides.

Hemp insulation is made from hemp fibers.

Exposure to herbicides and pesticides increases the levels of pollutants and toxins in the water and air. Therefore, reducing consumption helps combat several health and environmental problems.

Little energy is used in the production process, which further reduces the environmental impact. On average, hemp insulation requires 14 times less energy to produce than polyurethane, which offers similar thermal performance.

It is the perfect material for “zero carbon” homes as it absorbs more carbon than it uses during construction. Additionally, once hemp insulation reaches the end of its useful life, it can be recycled or used as compost as it is an organic product.

performance of hemp insulation

Certain household products like bamboo flooring are incredibly eco-friendly. However, they scratch quite easily and have a relatively short lifespan. Conversely, when it comes to performance, hemp does quite well.

The most significant benefit of hemp insulation is its response to moisture. Hemp fibers are fairly breathable and allow vapor to pass through the insulation, which is a plus.

The hemp acts as a condensation filter, gradually dissipating moisture as it moves through the product. Additionally, hemp is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb condensation to help control humidity levels in your home.

Hemp insulation is very impervious to moisture. In fact, it can potentially be removed, dried and replaced should a wall suffer water damage.

Hemp is very similar to a sponge or towel when it comes to water exposure. On the other hand, fiberglass is like a cotton ball that breaks apart when wet.

In addition, the hemp insulation is quite dense. Average thickness is 3.5 to 5.5 inches; However, it is also available in a 7.5 inch thickness. A thicker hemp insulation improves the acoustic absorption properties.

It is available in 4 inch long batts that remain strong when placed between wall studs. Blown-in insulation or rolled fiberglass will compress or sag over time.

Hemp insulation – R-value

The main benefit that homeowners expect from insulation is to prevent air from entering and escaping through the walls of their homes. The terms used to describe insulation performance are R and U values.

The R-value indicates the thermal resistance of the insulation. The higher this number, the better your insulation prevents cold and heat losses. Hemp insulation is typically rated at an R-value of 3.5 per inch.

Hemp’s compressibility is where its installation becomes an advantage. For example, you can install a piece of hemp insulation between 3.5-inch studs to get an R-value of 19.25, well above what’s needed in even the coldest regions of North America.

It is also interesting that other types of insulation generally lose their R-value over time. However, hemp’s R-value remains at 3.5 throughout its lifespan, while increasing the wall construction’s resistance to moisture damage.

The U-value indicates the heat transfer. Unlike the R-value, the smaller this number, the better. Again, the hemp insulation has a fantastic U-value of 0.039, which is almost the same as 8 inches of fiberglass insulation used in walls.

Use of hemp insulation

You can use hemp insulation in several parts of your home, including ceilings, attics, and interior and exterior walls. In addition, thanks to its higher density, you can use it as external wall insulation before facade insulation.

Remember that hemp insulation is not a load bearing product, so use with caution for floor insulation applications. Its vapor permeability plays a big part in its wide range of uses in wall mounts and adaptability to all types of environments.

Thickness of hemp insulation

You can install hemp insulation of any desired thickness. Mats are available in standard sizes to fit 2×6 and 2×4 wall cavities for 24” or 16” post centers. Typical thicknesses available include 8, 5.5 and 3.5 inches. You can stack these on top of each other if you want to go even thicker.

How does hemp insulation compare to other standard types?

In this section we will see how hemp insulation compares to other types of insulation.

Fiberglass Batt Vs. Hemp Insulation

There are four main types of insulation that hemp has to compete with in the industry. These include blown/loose fill, foam sheets, sprays and nonwovens.

Hemp insulation can be thought of as part foam board and part batt. This versatility gives hemp an edge right from the start.

The most common material is fiberglass or mineral wool for mat insulation. The R-value of fiberglass is between 2.9 and 3.8.

However, both hemp and fiberglass have fairly similar production when it comes to heat flow resistance.

Despite this, GRP’s U-value is only 0.05 per six inches. A standard fiberglass mat is about 3.5 inches thick. Therefore, approximately 8 inches of fiberglass batting is needed to match hemp’s U-value.

Another thing to note about fiberglass batts is that they absorb moisture without letting it penetrate. Fiberglass material tends to soak up the condensation and then just lets it sit there, leading to mold and mildew growth. Therefore, you must install a vapor barrier even on unprotected fiberglass mats.

The most important advantage of hemp over fiberglass mats is its environmental friendliness. Tiny pieces of glass make up a significant portion of fiberglass insulation.

Other binders are limestone, silica sand, borax, soda, feldspar, aluminum, etc. These products are not only dangerous, but can even increase energy consumption in the manufacturing process.

Rigid Foam Boards vs. Hemp Insulation

Foam board is another popular insulation product. Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene has an R-value of 3.6 to 6+ per inch.

Because the foam is stiff, it stays in place. However, it also means it is more difficult to bypass pipes, wires and outlets, which can result in a significant loss of heated or cooled air.

Rigid foam boards offer the best moisture-resistant properties. Some products even have reflective foil attached to further prevent heat absorption.

Again, the environmental impact of foam making is much more destructive than that of hemp. Foam contains chlorofluorocarbons that cause global warming and ozone depletion. Certain types of foam insulation, such as B. phenolic resins are no longer produced because of the environmental damage they cause.

Other Types of Insulation Vs. Hemp Insulation

Two other popular categories of insulation are spray and loose-fill. Spray foam creates the tightest insulation provided it is installed correctly.

The R-value of open-cell spray foam is 3.7 per inch, while the R-value of closed-cell can be as high as 6.5 per inch. However, in homes that are too tightly sealed, carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide can accumulate and lead to moisture build-up.

Loose fill insulation is still made up of tiny foam particles and fibers, among other dangerous things that can be inhaled during installation. Cellulose provides the most effortless installation when there is no access to the studs. The R-value of cellulose is between 3.2 and 3.8 per inch. However, this decreases as the fibers become more compact and sag over the years.

Cost of hemp insulation

Fiberglass batts range from $0.64 to $1.19 per square foot, while 3½-inch hemp batts cost nearly $1.80. In fact, the thicker 5.5-inch pieces of material cost around $2.40.

The cost of a rigid foam board ranges from $1.41 to $2.48 per square foot for installation. That’s just the 1 inch thick material though. Open cell spray foam costs about $0.44 to $0.66 per board foot and closed cell spray foam costs about $1 to $1.50 per board foot.

In short, hemp is priced somewhere in between these other popular types of insulation.

Top Hemp Insulation Brands

Here is a list of the top brands that offer hemp insulation.

Hempitecture – A Ketchum, Idaho based company offers high quality hemp mats. MEM Inc. – Based in Montreal, Canada, MEM Inc. is one of the first companies in North America to commercially manufacture hemp insulation. Nature Fibers – Based in Quebec, Canada, Nature Fibers provides batting insulation. The company is a success story of a sustainable product that replaced the harmful production the city once relied on.

Ideally, you should source your hemp insulation from the nearest manufacturer to minimize shipping costs and energy consumption.

Disadvantages of hemp insulation

Perhaps the greatest downside to hemp insulation is its current unavailability. It is not widely distributed locally throughout North America. Consequently, you may have to pay a higher price to acquire them than other forms of insulation.

Still, more and more states are beginning to relax regulations related to hemp cultivation. Hopefully this will encourage more entrepreneurs to see the value of using hemp as a practical crop for insulation and other construction methods such as hempcrete – a combination of sand, limestone, plant fibers and other composites.

Hempcrete is another eco-friendly and energy-efficient building material made from the hemp plant. Courtesy of Hemp Industry Daily.

last words

Hemp insulation competes heavily with its alternatives in terms of overall long-term performance. In terms of sustainability, however, it remains number one. It’s only a matter of time before this insulation becomes widespread across North America.