Hermit Crab Friendly Plants? The 165 New Answer

Here are some frequently asked questions about hermit crabs.

What can I feed my crab?

Pretty much everything because they are omnivores and scavengers. Here is a small list of what they will eat.

Popcorn

Cheerios

shrimp

sardines

Turkey

chicken

Salmon

fish flakes

Spirulina

oatmeal

granola

Nuts (almonds, pecans, walnuts, pistachios, peanuts, cashews)

peanut butter

wood

leaves

scrambled eggs

organic baby food

freeze-dried shrimp

naturally dried red algae

Chickpeas (aka Chickpeas)

dulse (seaweed)

Alaria (seaweed)

hamburger

coconut

strawberry

banana

dried Artemia

What should I NOT feed my crab?

Aloe Vera (interferes with potassium absorption)

dill

garlic

geranium

ivy (any kind)

Onion

peppermint

Pine, cedar or needles

rosemary

thyme

Citrus fruits (Avoid leaves and twigs as they are part of the evergreen family. The fruit is fine.)

What kind of shells do I give my crabs?

It is recommended that you offer your hermit crabs natural, unpainted shells to choose from. The painted shells can chip off and the paint is unhealthy for the hermit crabs.

Where can I buy mussels?

You can purchase your shells at a pet store or craft store. If you buy your clams from a craft store, be sure to cook the clams before adding them to the crab tank. The shells should be quickly boiled in dechlorinated water for 10 minutes to kill any bacteria that may be in the shells. Make sure the shells are completely cool before placing them in the tank.

How can I tell if my crab is getting ready to molt?

The pre-molting symptoms (PMS) are:

dig

Consuming large amounts of salt or fresh water

Soaking in the salt or fresh water bowl

hazy eyes

Ashy looking exoskeleton

Lethargic (inactive)

Spilling water to wet the sand

How do I care for a molting crab?

When hermit crabs molt, they usually bury themselves deep in the sand. You should never dig up your crab. You should leave the crab under the sand until it’s ready to come back to the surface after molting. On rare occasions, a crab will attempt to molt on the sand surface. In this case, it is recommended to isolate the crab from the other crabs in the tank. This is because other crabs might disturb or even try to eat another crab that is molting. You can cut a 2 liter bottle in half and put it over the crab. Be sure to include water and food for the isolated crab. You can also move the crab to a second tank until it finishes molting. The crab sheds its exoskeleton and then eats it. The old exoskeleton contains nutrients that help the new exoskeleton harden. The crab then returns to normal activities such as climbing and walking around the tank.

How long will it take for my crab to molt?

The length of time depends on the size of your crab. Small crabs take a few weeks, while large crabs take up to three months.

How much sand do I need for my crab?

The amount of sand depends on the size of your crab. Sand depth can range from 2 inches for small crabs (1/2 inch or less in length) to 10 inches for very large crabs (3 inches in length).

What sound is that?

Hermit crabs actually make noise. They sound like a cross between the chirp of a cricket, the croak of a frog and a squeaky hinge on a door. It’s unclear how the crab makes this sound, some believe that inside the crab are two exoskeletal plates rubbing against each other. Hermit crabs make this sound when they are excited. So if you hear your hermit crab singing, it’s not happy!

This article was co-authored by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS. dr Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years experience in veterinary surgery and companion animal practice. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in Veterinary Medicine and Surgery. She has worked at the same vet clinic in her hometown for over 20 years. This article has been viewed 89,295 times.

Article overview

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To make toys for a hermit crab, place a terracotta pot on its side in the aquarium to create a hiding place for your crab. You can also make a hammock by placing suction cups in each corner of the tank and cutting a piece of fine netting into a rectangle. Then cut holes in each corner and place them over the hooks on the suction cups. Also, consider putting some textured driftwood in your hermit crab’s tank for it to climb and play. Alternatively, you can add coral, barnacles, or dried choya wood to the tank. For more advice from our veterinary co-author, including how to add sand to your hermit crab’s tank so it can dig, read on!

Hermit Crab Care Sheet Coenobita spp

Developed with and approved by qualified veterinarians Hermit Crab Care Sheet Coenobita spp. Developed with and approved by qualified veterinarians

Hermit crabs are nocturnal scavengers that will eat almost anything. Hermit crabs live in large groups of hundreds in the wild, scavenging beaches for food and shellfish.

Typical Hermit Crab Appearance and Behavior Hermit crabs live in a hard outer shell called an exoskeleton. As they grow, they shed (skin) this outer skin and form a soft exoskeleton, which then hardens. They protect themselves by living in shells made by other animals (typically snails). As they grow larger, they move from their current shell into a larger one. When they are about to molt, they feed and drink greedily, burrowing into the substrate of their habitat to burrow for molting

Hermit crabs are social; They usually travel in large packs, so if one molts and discards its old shell, another always molts at the same time, helping to ensure that there are always new shells available for molting hermit crabs to move into. As pets, they do best when kept in groups of two or more

Molting is a very stressful time, and it can take several weeks for a hermit crab to complete molting. Do not touch your hermit crab while it is molting and never dig up a buried hermit crab during a molt as this can kill it

Traits of the Hermit Crab Care Difficulty Beginner Average Lifespan 10+ years with proper care depending on species Average Adult Size 2-6 inches long depending on species Diet Omnivore Minimum Habitat Size 10 gallon glass container for 2 hermit crabs Hermit Crab Care Sheet

Habitat Size of habitat Under ideal conditions, hermit crabs reach their adult size in 2 years, depending on the species; Improve habitat size as your hermit crab grows. Provide at least a 10-gallon tank for up to two hermit crabs. Build Your Habitat It is recommended to use a glass container with a lid to prevent leakage and maintain habitat humidity. The habitat should be large enough to accommodate the behavior and movement of adult hermit crabs, at least 10 gallons. Avoid placing the habitat in direct sunlight or in drafty areas to prevent your hermit crabs from drying out or freezing. Decoration: Provide climbing decoration (branches, tree trunks, driftwood, lava rock, plastic plants, coral) and hiding places

: Provide climbing decor (branches, logs, driftwood, lava rock, plastic plants, coral) and hiding places. Moisture: Hermit crabs need moisture to keep their stiff gills moist so they can breathe and help molt. The most common cause of hermit crab deaths is a lack of moisture in the habitat, leading to suffocation. Maintain 70-90% humidity by spraying daily with dechlorinated water as needed

: Hermit crabs need moisture to keep their stiff gills moist so they can breathe and help molt. The most common cause of hermit crab deaths is a lack of moisture in the habitat, leading to suffocation. Maintain 70-90% humidity by spraying daily with dechlorinated water as needed. You can also add peat moss. The substrate should be at least 3 inches deep to protect the hermit crabs’ fragile bodies as they burrow and molt. Sand should be kept wet enough to stick together, but not dripping wet. Never use cedar or pine in a hermit crab habitat, as the wood’s oil will irritate hermit crab skin

: Use commercial sand (which has been washed, dried and sterilized to ensure it is pathogen free) mixed with commercial coconut fiber bedding; You can also add peat moss. The substrate should be at least 3 inches deep to protect the hermit crabs’ fragile bodies as they burrow and molt. Sand should be kept wet enough to stick together, but not dripping wet. Never use cedar or pine in a hermit crab habitat, as the wood’s oil will irritate hermit crab skin. A low wattage incandescent light bulb (appropriate for the size of the habitat) is recommended to provide light and some heat. Additional under-tank heating is usually required to maintain an adequate temperature gradient

: maintaining a temperature gradient of 80°F at the warm end and 70°F at the cool end; A low wattage incandescent light bulb (appropriate for the size of the habitat) is recommended to provide light and some heat. Additional under-tank heating is usually required to maintain an adequate temperature gradient. Lighting: Hermit crabs are nocturnal, so consider providing a low-wattage nocturnal light bulb for nighttime viewing. A low-wattage bulb left on 10-12 hours a day mimics natural light cycles and allows hermit crabs to regulate their normal behavior

: Hermit crabs are nocturnal, so you may want to provide a low-wattage nocturnal light bulb for nighttime observation. A low-wattage bulb left on 10–12 hours a day mimics natural light cycles and allows the hermit crabs to regulate their normal behavior in water and one using sea salt water with a specific gravity range of 1.021–1.026. All hermit crabs need salt water to regulate their body’s salinity. Depending on the size of the hermit crabs, the water should not be deeper than 0.25-1.50 cm to prevent them from drowning. A natural sponge should be placed in each bowl to allow the crabs to climb in and out easily to prevent drowning. Change sponges frequently to avoid bacterial and fungal growth

Cleaning Your Habitat Spot-clean the habitat daily, using a small colander or fishing net to scoop out any sand soiled with feces, discarded food, and bits of the exoskeleton (the outer tough skin that falls off during molting). Follow these steps to thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week: Place hermit crabs in a safe habitat

Scrub the aquarium and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution

Rinse thoroughly with water to remove any traces of habitat cleaner or bleach odor

Completely dry the aquarium and setup, add clean, dry substrate, and return your hermit crabs to their habitat. Rearranging the decoration of the habitat after cleaning can prevent hermit crabs from getting bored. Sponges also need to be disinfected weekly to prevent fungal and bacterial growth. To disinfect: Rinse the sponges in hot tap water, followed by a salt water rinse and then dechlorinated water

Squeeze out excess water and allow the sponges to air dry completely before reusing. Extremely dirty sponges can be squeezed out, dried completely and microwaved for 1-2 minutes to disinfect. It’s ideal to have several sponges to turn around in the habitat while some are being cleaned. Feeding A balanced hermit crab diet includes: High-quality, commercially available hermit crab food every day

Vegetables (like spinach, carrots, kale, and romaine lettuce) and non-citrus fruits (like mangoes, coconut, and papaya) in smaller amounts

Nuts, algae, artemia and fish flakes as a treat

Carotene-rich vegetables (like carrots and untreated marigold leaves) to help them achieve a normal, reddish-orange exoskeleton

Calcium supplements (such as shredded squid) to harden the exoskeleton. Things to remember when feeding your hermit crab: Fresh, clean, chlorine-free water should always be available; Hermit crabs often drink while soaking in a bowl of water

Food and water bowls should be made of plastic or other non-metallic, non-porous material; since hermit crabs are very sensitive to metal and porous dishes cannot be disinfected

Crush all pelleted foods prior to feeding; Feed at night to mimic your crab’s nocturnal feeding patterns

Hermit crabs eat slowly and take small bites

Remove discarded food in the morning

Hermit crabs appreciate variety in their diet. Care of Hermit Crabs Hermit crabs are social and should be kept in groups of two or more

Place the hermit crabs in their saltwater bowl daily and let them out at will

Hermit crabs usually molt once or twice a year; They will bury themselves in the sand while molting. Do not disturb the process as the molting hermit crab’s body is very fragile without the tough exoskeleton. Protect the molting hermit crab by placing a divider (e.g. the top half of a clean, dry 2 liter soda bottle with the cap removed and set in the sand) over the molting hermit crab in the tank. Other homemade partitions can be dangerous because molting hermit crabs might try to climb and fall off. The best alternative is to move all other hermit crabs to another tank, away from the molting crab. Provide proper humidity to aid in moulting. Freshly molted hermit crabs eat their discarded exoskeletons, which are a good source of calcium to harden new exoskeletons. Other hermit crabs in the same tank may also attempt to eat exoskeletons and may fight over it. When possible, it is best to separate molting hermit crabs from other hermit crabs to prevent fights. Only return newly molted hermit crabs to their original habitat after they have eaten their old exoskeletons and hardened their new ones

New shells should be provided for hermit crabs to climb into as they molt and outgrow their current shells. New shells should be slightly larger than the current shell. Hermit crabs bury shells they are not interested in using

When handling a hermit crab, pick it up by the back of its shell to avoid getting bitten or pinched by a claw. Hermit crabs are more likely to pinch when startled or hungry. Always handle hermit crabs on a soft surface like a couch or bed so they don’t hurt themselves if they pinch you and you drop them. Children must be supervised when handling hermit crabs. Where to Buy Hermit Crabs Petco sells hermit crabs in stores. Call your local location in advance to ensure availability.

Tankmates House hermit crabs in groups of two or more, but do not house different invertebrate species together. Always monitor groups of hermit crabs housed together for possible fighting and separate hermit crabs if they are fighting. Health Signs of a Healthy Hermit Crab Healthy appetite

active

Regular shedding Red flags lethargy

Give up shell and don’t return

Excessive molting

loss of appetite

Loss of limbs or claws

Foul-smelling shell

discharge from the shell

General Hermit Crab Health Issues Health Issue Symptoms or Causes Suggested Action Health Issue Mite Symptoms or Causes Small black mites appear in the habitat or directly on the hermit crab Suggested Action Completely clean the habitat (including decoration and food bowls), replace all substrate, and bathe the hermit crabs in lukewarm dechlorinated water Water; Make sure no mites are visible on the hermit crab before returning to a clean habitat. Make sure discarded fresh food is not left in the tank for long periods of time as it attracts mites, clean the litter daily for droppings and regularly replace soiled sponges as these can also attract mites. Health Problem Limb Loss Symptoms or Causes Limb loss can be caused by stress from an unsuitable environment (lack of moisture, inadequate temperature, poor cleanliness, chemicals or chlorine in the habitat) or battle with another hermit crab attacker hermit crab care sheet

FAQs What does a hermit crab eat? Hermit crabs eat commercially available hermit crab food supplemented with smaller amounts of vegetables (particularly those high in carotene to promote the hermit crab’s normal reddish color) and fruit, as well as sepia for calcium.

Hermit crabs eat commercially available hermit crab food supplemented with smaller amounts of vegetables (particularly those high in carotene to promote the hermit crab’s normal reddish color) and fruit, as well as sepia for calcium. How big do hermit crabs get? Depending on the species, hermit crabs grow from 2 to 6 inches long.

Depending on the species, hermit crabs grow from 2 to 6 inches long. Where do hermit crabs live? In nature, hermit crabs live on land but need to live along the coast to access water.

In nature, hermit crabs live on land but need to live along the coast to access water. What does hermit crab feces look like? Hermit crab feces are black or brown and are usually placed in the shell and kicked out of the shell with the crab’s legs.

Hermit crab feces are black or brown and are usually placed in the shell and kicked out of the shell with the crab’s legs. Where do hermit crab shells come from? Hermit crabs are not born with shells, but must find them (often from sea slugs) to live in to protect their delicate outer hard skin (exoskeleton).

Hermit crabs are not born with shells, but must find them (often from sea slugs) to live in to protect their delicate outer hard skin (exoskeleton). How long does it take for a hermit crab to molt? Depending on their size, hermit crabs can take days to weeks to molt.

Depending on their size, hermit crabs can take days to weeks to molt. How do I set up a hermit crab tank? A hermit crab habitat should contain a glass tank (at least 10 gallons per 2 hermit crabs) filled with deep substrate (commercially available sand and coco coir), an under-tank heater, thermometer, a moisture meter, decorations for climbing, and 2 shallow water bowls (one with dechlorinated fresh water and the other with salt water) for soaking and drinking.

A hermit crab habitat should contain a glass tank (at least 10 gallons per 2 hermit crabs) filled with deep substrate (commercially available sand and coco coir), an under-tank heater, thermometer, a moisture meter, decorations for climbing, and 2 shallow water bowls (one with dechlorinated fresh water and the other with salt water) for soaking and drinking. How do I clean a hermit crab tank? Discover clean feces and discarded food on a daily basis. Once a week, completely drain the tank and clean the tank, decor, and dishes with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. Thoroughly rinse out all traces of cleaning or bleach solution and dry the tank completely before replacing the tank contents and returning the hermit crabs to their habitat.

Discover clean feces and discarded food on a daily basis. Once a week, completely drain the tank and clean the tank, decor, and dishes with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. Thoroughly rinse out all traces of cleaning or bleach solution and dry the tank completely before replacing the tank contents and returning the hermit crabs to their habitat. How do I get a hermit crab out of its shell? Hermit crabs should not be forcibly removed from their shells. They leave one shell and go to another as they grow and molt.

Additional care sheets

Typically, “playing” with your hermit crab involves giving it the toys it needs to entertain itself – you won’t have much luck teaching it to fetch. If you want to spend some time with him outside of his habitat, he won’t mind. But you should be careful how you handle it.

Step 1

Give him toys in his fish tank. Hermit crabs are generally happy to play without much human help; but when they have the right toy, they couldn’t be happier. A well-stocked aquarium is all your hermit crab needs to play, so give it a combination of things to climb on, through, and under. Driftwood, flower pots, and specially made half-logs are popular with hermit crabs. Yours will spend hours playing with their habitat’s new toys.

step 2

Get him out of the tank for quality time together – just do it very carefully. No matter how much it trusts you, your hermit crab will not hesitate to wrap its claws around your fingers if it feels threatened. Pick it up by the bowl, never from the front, and give it room in your hand without closing your fingers around it. Even then, he might have a tendency to pinch, so the wearer be wary.

step 3

Hermit crabs make wonderful pets that are easy to care for. The hermit crab has evolved to live on land with empty shells for both home and shelter. With proper care, your hermit crab can live up to 15 years. Hermit crabs love company, so let several crabs live together. You become more active in the company. Hermit crabs are nocturnal and sleep most of the day.

Housing

Choose a glass-covered tank for your hermit crabs to live in. Since hermit crabs are tropical animals, you must keep the temperature of the aquarium at 30 degrees Celsius and not drop below 20 degrees Celsius. Install a low wattage bulb over the aquarium and place a thermometer in the aquarium to keep an eye on the temperature. We recommend heating one end of the tank to allow the hermit crabs to move to where it best suits their body temperature.

It is important not to fill the aquarium with water as hermit crabs are terrestrial crabs. Add either shell grit or aquarium sand to the bottom of the aquarium. Try to keep the sand dry at all times. Hermit crabs love to climb, so add pieces of driftwood or mangrove roots to the aquarium for some entertainment.

Hermit crabs need a humidity of about 50-70%. They need these to keep their gills moist and to be able to breathe properly. If the air is too dry, your hermit crab can become dormant and suffocate. To maintain high humidity, make sure there is plenty of water in the water bowls and the temperature is kept warm, not cold.

Two types of water must be available to your hermit crabs at all times. Have fresh water in one bowl for drinking and sea water in another bowl for bathing. Seawater can be prepared using hermit crab salt and water (follow the measurements on the package for the correct ratio). Use heavy, solid pans for the water, as hermit crabs like to climb and tip over the water if a light-weight pan is used.

Change the water daily to keep it clean.

meal

Hermit crabs need to be fed daily and in small amounts at a time to ensure the food is fresh. Appropriate foods to feed your hermit crab include fish pellets, bread, cereal, apples and other fruits, and grated coconut. Be sure to remove any food that will not be eaten that day.

moult

Hermit crabs typically shed their skin twice a year. When a hermit crab is in the process of moulting you will find that they become less active, not eating, drinking excessive amounts of water and possibly even digging – this is perfectly normal behavior during this time. It will take several weeks for the hermit crab’s new skin to harden, so it must be left alone during this time. The old skins your hermit crab sheds are usually eaten. Allow them to eat their old skin as it is a rich source of calcium.

Shellfish

Normally, after moulting, hermit crabs change the shell in which they live. Provide some spare shells for the hermit crabs in the aquarium. It’s important that you provide trays that are slightly larger than the previous one, as your hermit crabs will continue to grow.

Battle

Fighting can be a problem if your aquarium is overpopulated and overcrowded. You may need to get a larger tank if there are too many crabs living together and add more climbing ornaments to keep the crabs at bay. Some hermit crabs may become aggressive and pull other crabs out of their shells to steal them. It is important to have enough spare bowls to avoid this.

Health

Common health issues with hermit crabs include stress and poisoning, so be sure to keep a close eye on them.

Signs of stress include inactivity, sluggishness, and coming out of their shells. It is not normal for a hermit crab to be walking around without its shell or sitting in a corner as it is exposed and vulnerable to attacks from other crabs. Stress can be caused by overcrowding and bullying, living alone, being dropped on their shell, or extreme temperatures (either too hot or too cold).

Hermit crabs are easily poisoned by cleaning sprays and detergents used around the home, and even a small amount can be fatal. Make sure no chemicals are used when cleaning the aquarium and none are used near your hermit crabs, including hairspray and air fresheners. Be careful when you take out your hermit crabs and place them on carpets, as carpets are usually cleaned with chemicals.

Signs that may indicate your hermit crab is poisoned include shedding its shells and sitting in the water, weakness (they need strong muscles to hold up their shell), and ripping off limbs. Because hermit crabs can’t wash away toxins on their own, they begin tearing off affected areas like their legs.

Download our care sheets:

This comprehensive care guide will show you how to care for a hermit crab in 3 easy steps

Brief information:

How long will my hermit crab live? They can live 10-15 years

How big will my hermit crab get? They grow 1-8 cm

What size aquarium is recommended for my hermit crab? You need an enclosure of at least 30 x 30 x 30 cm

What does a hermit crab eat? – Hermit crab food with fruits and vegetables

How easy is it to take care of a hermit crab? They are a low maintenance pet

Hermit crab housing

Native to the northern, tropical regions of Australia, hermit crabs live in coastal dune forests where fresh water is available. Every week they migrate to the coast to swim in the salt water.

A hermit crab enclosure should be at least 30x30x30cm. Since they require constant access to salt water, fresh drinking water, and food, separate bowls must be provided for each. In addition to a heat source, climbing and movement areas are essential for the crabs. This can often be accomplished with a log, rock, or branch. An absorbent substrate such as coco peat is important. The substrate should be kept moist to help maintain proper moisture levels. Hermit crabs love to dig, so the litter can be 2-3 cm deep.

Hermit crabs are great climbers, so their enclosure must be secured with a lid.

Care of the hermit crab

Hermit crabs are cold-blooded or “cold-blooded”. They therefore need heat, which is supplied to them from their environment. In your home, this is best done with a heat lamp or heat mat, depending on the size of your enclosure. There needs to be a temperature swing in the tank to allow the crabs to move to warm or cool areas as needed. One end should be heated to around 24°C to 28°C and the other end left at room temperature.

Hermit crabs need high humidity to keep their gills moist and allow them to breathe properly. Humidity must be maintained at 75-90% by using an automatic atomizer or by spraying the case with water frequently.

A hermit crab enclosure should be spot cleaned weekly, all shells cleaned and the water changed daily. The substrate should be changed monthly, more often if necessary.

Hermit crabs need salt water for bathing. This should be provided in a separate bowl with your fresh drinking water.

Hermit crabs live in discarded shells of other creatures. As they grow, they will leave their old shell and find another, larger one to move into. For such occasions, a few reserve bowls, only slightly larger than their current ones, should be kept in the enclosure. Like other crabs, hermit crabs must shed their outer skeleton as they grow, which usually happens about twice a year. After moulting, the crab must be left alone for several weeks until its new skeleton has hardened. After molting, the skin is usually left on the ground. Crabs eat this skin as it is rich in calcium. They can eat that discarded old skin before you know they’ve actually molted. Crabs typically bury themselves in the substrate for about a week while their skin hardens. Make sure there is enough food and water in their enclosure even when they are inactive.

Hermit Crab Feeding

Hermit crabs are opportunistic, scavenging omnivores that feed on a wide variety of foods including fruits, vegetables, insects, and even carrion.

In captivity, hermit crab food should be readily available and placed in shallow bowls to prevent tank fouling.

A dry commercial hermit crab flake or pellet can be used as the primary food source. Fresh fruits and vegetables such as apple, carrot, kale and banana should be offered 2-3 times per week. Hermit crabs will also readily accept dead insects, such as dried mealworms and crickets, which can be coated in a calcium and vitamin supplement.

Some species of hermit crabs, such as the strawberry hermit crab, can develop bright red and orange coloring when fed foods high in carotene, such as cooked carrots, sweet potatoes, and papaya.

Caution!

Many crabs become victims of poisoning without their owners noticing. Cleaning chemicals like furniture polish, bug sprays, room deodorants, and air fresheners can kill your crabs if the spray gets into their food and water bowls. Because they have very small bodies, even a small amount can have devastating effects.

Don’t put your crabs on carpets to rest. Many carpets are cleaned with chemicals, and much of the chemicals remain as a residue in the carpet fibers after the carpet has dried. It’s safer to play with your hermit crab on tile or linoleum floors that have been cleaned and rinsed to ensure no residue is left behind, or you can even take them out onto the lawn.

We’ve created a shopping list to show what you need to take care of a hermit crab:

enclosure; 30cm x 30cm x 30cm at least

substrate

Water Bowls (x2)

food bowl

Hide

climbing wood

ornaments

heating mat

water sprayer

salt water

eat hermit crab

Common health problems in hermit crabs

Dehydration/mouse problems: Low humidity can cause the hermit crab to have difficulty moulting.

Lethargy: If winter temperatures drop too low and hermit crabs are left unheated, they become lethargic and may even die.

Red flags

Is your hermit crab showing any signs of illness or disease? If so, please consult your reptile veterinarian.

loss of appetite

lethargy

At Kellyville Pets, we encourage responsible pet ownership.

CARE GUIDE © Copyright 2016 Kellyville Pets – All information in this care guide is based on our own experience. The information provided is not the only information available. You should always consult your veterinarian in all medical situations, including questions about your pet’s diet.

This article is no longer updated. Please use the new, comprehensive feeding list for hermit crabs

Hermit crabs love moss! Not only is it a great way to create and maintain moisture, but your crabs will burrow into it and even eat it. The key is to pick safe moss. This page is intended to give you a starting point for determining which types of moss are safe for your hermit crabs.

There are over 1200 species of moss so it would be impossible to address them all. Below are the most common types. In all cases, you’re looking for 100% natural, chemical-free and dye-free moss. If you collect your own live moss, know what you are collecting and do not collect from areas that may have been sprayed with chemicals or pesticides or that contain pine needles/pinecones.

Unsafe Moss

Peat Moss (Sometimes this is referred to as Sphagnum Peat Moss)

ladybug15057 replied:

With a quick search, here are a few links on peat moss:

“Don’t confuse peat moss with peat moss. Peat moss and peat moss are not the same product. Peat moss is used in the floral industry to line wire baskets and make wreaths. It is the LIVING moss that grows on a sphagnum swamp. This is a safe moss. Sphagnum peat moss is used by gardeners as a soil conditioner. It is the dead material that accumulates in the lower layers of a peat moss. Horticultural peat moss harvesters remove the top few inches of living peat moss before harvesting the peat from the lower levels of the bog.

There has also been some confusion as to which of the two is actually the source of a fungal disease called cutaneous sporotrichosis, which is causing some concern in gardening circles, according to Gerry Hood of the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association. Sporotrichosis is a chronic infection characterized by ulcerative skin lesions caused by contact with the fungus Sporothrix schenckii. Research has found no cases of sphagnum peat moss being transmitted by sphagnum peat moss. However, the fungus Sporothrix schenckii lives in the uppermost, living part of the bog, which is removed before the peat is harvested.”

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/m/mossph54.html

http://www.ipcc.ie/infosphagnum.html

http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/articles/misc/sphagnum.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphagnum

Peat moss can also acidify its environment by absorbing cations such as calcium and magnesium and releasing hydrogen ions.

cypress

Sue Latell replied:

Cypress is a conifer. Softwood/needles are poisonous to crayfish if swallowed. Crabs typically graze on their substrates, making cypress a poor substrate. Cypress mulch really is best for carnivorous reptiles according to my herp expert. Used only for EXTERNAL use, cypress has toxic properties to most mammals and other animals, and depending on the species of cypress, arsenic is the most common.

Spanish moss (sometimes called cypress moss) is often treated with chemicals

Reindeer/Caribou (lichen) Moss – usually colored and therefore unsafe.

Safe Moss

Frogmoss / Cushion Moss

Sold by ZooMed

All natural frog moss for use with frogs, toads, salamanders, garter or green snakes and all other types of moss. Use as a top substrate or decorative accent in vivarium/terrarium applications.

Frog moss (also called “cushion moss”) comes back to life and grows under suitable terrarium conditions.

A beautiful decorative live moss to accentuate your naturalistic terrarium.

Increases humidity in terrariums, making it perfect for any type of reptile or amphibian that loves high humidity.

Additional information:

Zoo Med Frogmoss can be washed and reused several times before it needs to be replaced with new moss.

beak moss

100% natural terrarium moss is ideal for amphibians and reptiles that inhabit humid environments. The moss retains moisture and creates a higher humidity level that is beneficial to tropical and forest species. Ideal for chameleons, frogs, green anoles, rainforest geckos, salamanders and newts.

• Retains moisture

• Provides a realistic environment for reptiles and amphibians

• All natural (no dyes or chemicals)

Moisture stability with natural beauty

From Oregon’s lush coniferous rainforests we harvest a moisture-loving moss where tropical reptiles thrive. Its natural moisture-retaining properties keep humidity levels evenly high while creating a beautiful carpet of green, the closest thing to rainforest reptiles. Looks great and your favorite pet will love having it under their feet! Because it’s 100% biodegradable, mulch it in your garden for natural disposal.

Ideal for chameleons, frogs, green anoles, rainforest geckos, salamanders and newts.

Zill Schnabelmoos

Flukers makes dyed and undyed moss. Both are listed as all natural. However, they are easy to distinguish. The uncolored is perfectly safe, the jury is on the other side.

Hiawatha Moss

Hiawatha moss is grown naturally in the Pacific Northwest. 100% natural terrarium moss is ideal for amphibians and reptiles that inhabit humid environments. The moss retains moisture and creates a higher humidity level that is beneficial to tropical and forest species.

Leaf (Hypnum) Moss

Leaf moss or hypnum moss is transplantable and can be a moss that you could get to grow live inside your crab.

Exo Terra sells Forest Moss which is actually feather moss and I have used it in my aquarium with no problems.

The Exo Terra Forest Moss Tropical Terrarium Substrate is real compressed moss grown in tropical Asia. This ecological substrate is ideal for increasing the humidity in the terrarium and is perfectly safe for frogs, salamanders and burrowing or burrowing animals. The Exo Terra Forest Moss Tropical Terrarium Substrate is extremely absorbent and is recommended in humidified shelters such as the Exo Terra Snake Cave or Reptile Cave. It is also an ideal egg-laying or breeding medium.

peat moss

Used in the floral industry to line wire baskets and make wreaths. It is the LIVING moss that grows on a peat moss. This is a safe moss.

Don’t forget the moss – Naturally Crabby

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If you’re thinking of getting a pet hermit crab, you have to keep in mind that they are social animals that need companions. So can you get just one hermit crab, or do you have to get a bunch of hermit crabs and put them in a tank together? In this post, you’ll learn how many hermit crabs you should ideally get, the requirements of hermit crab tanks, and how many gallons each of them needs to live happily. You’ll discover how many hermit crabs you can fit in 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 79, 90 gallon tanks.

You must never get just one hermit crab. Hermit crabs are social animals and will get lonely and sick on their own, so consider getting at least 3 or more hermit crabs so they can live together in one tank.

When buying hermit crabs, be aware that they vary in size. That’s because if they’re the same size, they’re fighting for the same grenades. If you receive different sized hermit crabs, their shell sizes will also be different. But fortunately, most hermit crabs of different species can live well together without fighting.

Read the hermit crab tank size and minimum requirements below.

What is the minimum tank size for hermit crabs?

The minimum tank size for hermit crabs is 10 gallons to begin with and measures 51 inches long, 25 to 30 inches wide and high. However, a 20 gallon tank is preferred to provide more space for hermit crabs. You’ll also need at least a 20-gallon tank if you want to keep larger hermit crabs. Most juvenile hermit crabs are about 1.27 cm tall, reaching 2.54 cm in size in a few years and 5 to 8 cm in size in about 5 years.

Please remember that hermit crabs grow and therefore need more space. It’s best to leave extra space by getting fewer crabs at first or by expanding the tank later. And possibly add more hermit crabs if you enjoy holding them.

Generally, each small crab that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide (across the shell) will require 2 gallons of its own. So you can fit five 1 inch wide hermit crabs in a 10 gallon tank. If your hermit crabs are larger, say 2 inches, then they will each need about 3-4 gallons to roam freely. The best thing you can do with larger hermit crabs is to invest in a 20-30 gallon tank to give them more room to roam.

If you are unsure about wanting lots of hermit crabs, you can get at least 2 small 1 inch hermit crabs to start with a 5 gallon tank. However, please upgrade to a 10 gallon tank even if you only have 2 hermit crabs as they will take up more space. Lack of space will seriously affect your hermit crabs’ well-being, causing them to become ill and weak. If you’re starting out with jumbo hermits, get a 20-gallon tank right away.

Please note that hermit crabs reach their adult size after 5 to 10-15 years. You always need to get a large tank for your hermit crabs as they get bigger. A 65-90 gallon tank is required for adult hermit crabs.

How Many Hermit Crabs Can Live in a 10 Gallon Aquarium?

A 10 gallon tank is often the smallest tank you should get if you plan to keep hermit crabs. Anything smaller than 10 gallons will not provide adequate space for your hermit crab pets. Please note that 10 gallons is just a starter tank and you should upgrade later.

But ideally you should get a tank that is at least 20 gallons. This will give your hermit crabs enough space to run around and be entertained and happy. Hermit crabs are adventurous and love to forage and travel long distances in the wild. Of course, if you have less space in your room/house, you can choose a tank that is at least 10 gallons and house fewer hermit crabs in it.

You can fit about 4 hermit crabs that are 1 inch wide or less (across their shell opening) in a 10 gallon tank. If your hermit crabs are 2 inches wide, you should only fit about 2-3 hermit crabs in a 10 gallon tank. Generally allow 2 gallons for every additional 1 inch of hermit crab size. Jumbo hermit crabs need more space, so start with at least a 20-gallon tank.

How many hermit crabs can live in a 20 gallon tank?

If your hermit crabs are 1 inch across the shell opening, you can fit up to 7 hermit crabs in a 20-gallon aquarium. However, it’s a better idea to leave an extra gallon for each hermit crab, as they will need more space over time. If your hermit crabs are larger (2″/5cm or larger), allow 2-3 gallons per crab.

If you want more hermit crabs and want to upgrade in the future, you can fit more hermit crabs in a 20-gallon tank. In general: more space = the better for the well-being of your hermit crabs. Also make sure that the tank is not round or rectangular (round aquariums are not suitable).

How many hermit crabs can live in a 5, 30, 40, 50, 79, 90 gallon tank?

A 5 gallon tank is too small for hermit crabs. But if you’re just starting out and upgrading asap, you can temporarily house 2 hermit crabs in a 5 gallon tank.

You can house about 10-12 hermit crabs in a 30 gallon tank. However, the more space for each hermit crab = the better. A 40 gallon tank can house up to 13 hermit crabs. And you can house up to 16 hermit crabs in a 50-gallon tank. You can fit about 25 hermit crabs in a 79 gallon tank. And you can fit about 30 hermit crabs in a 90-gallon tank.

This is calculated by allowing about 3 gallons per hermit crab. However, this depends on the size of your hermit crab – allow 3 gallons per hermit crab + an extra gallon per 1 inch of crab. You will also need extra skins, shells, logs, more hermit crabs you have so keep that in mind as well.

Requirements for hermit crab tanks

Hermit crab tank size and material

The good news is that hermit crabs don’t need fancy shells to be happy, but you do need to keep a few important requirements in mind. Be sure to set up the hermit crab’s tank before bringing it home. A minimum 10 gallon tank like this or a 20 gallon tank is great.

Glass tanks work best as hermit crabs need a warm and humid environment. A plastic tank like this can work, but you might have trouble keeping the humidity high. As many as 50-75 gallons is ideal and crucial for adult hermit crabs. Keep the tank away from drafts, direct sunlight or air conditioning. As they are nocturnal it is best to keep them in a living room or similar (so they do not disturb your sleep).

A lid with a mesh or ventilation area for air exchange

Be sure to get a lid that fits the tank, as hermit crabs need a humid environment. However, make sure there is a small gap for air exchange (if there is no vent on the lid itself). Hermit crabs are good escape artists, so a lid is vital for this reason too. Land hermits don’t have to live in the water—they live on land. So please do not fill the tank with water.

substrate

Hermit crabs love and need to dig pretty deep. Hermit crabs spend most of their time walking, digging, and digging. They must also be able to burrow and bury themselves to successfully molt. Your hermit crab will burrow and remain under the substrate until it has completely molted.

Smaller hermit crabs will be happy with about 5 inches of substrate. In general, make sure the depth of the substrate is three times greater than the size of the crab. For larger hermit crabs, the substrate needs to be about 20 to 25 cm deep. Keep the substrate moist so it will keep its shape.

The best mix is ​​about 5 parts sand to 1 part coconut fiber. You can make your own mix or get a ready made mix like this one. Be sure to keep the substrate moist, but it must hold its shape and not be overly wet or dripping. Make sure it’s deep enough too.

Although sand is the most popular choice, there are other types of substrate that you can use for hermit crabs. For example, cork bark and mulch are safe woods for hermit crabs. You can find ones for reptiles that need higher humidity. To clean it you must use a shovel to remove debris. You will also need to completely replace it every 4 months or so.

However, hermit crabs can have a hard time burrowing into cork bark, so avoid using them alone. Coconut shells can be better for adding texture to a sand/coir mix, but also allow for proper burial. Also avoid using gravel as a substrate for hermit crabs – gravel can be too coarse and scratch their bodies when they try to burrow. Hermit crabs are also unlikely to molt with gravel in the tank as a substrate.

Heating, temperatures and humidity

Hermit crabs need a warm and humid environment to stay healthy and happy. Ideal temperatures for hermit crabs are 80-82 degrees F (26.6-27.7 C) and humidity – 75-80%. The minimum temperatures for hermit crabs are 23.8 °C (75 °F) and a maximum of 29.4 °C (85 °F). Temperature drops are allowed at night unless they drop below 75 F (23.8 C). Then night heating is required.

To heat your hermit crabs, you can use an undertank heater or a heating bulb. An under-tank heater is not a good option, so try to avoid it. The problem is that under-tank heaters that go under the tank don’t heat the tank at all. If you place it indoors, it heats the substrate and not the air. Your hermit crabs can also burn themselves while burying.

You should use a lamp (on the outside) – this is around 25 watts for a 10 gallon tank and more for larger tanks. As lamps, you can use incandescent, LED, fluorescent (compact fluorescent) or even ceramic/infrared lamps. UVB exposure is also important. Ceramic bulbs do not produce visible light, so they can be used for heating.

If visible light is produced, make sure there are light bulbs on timers (can be mechanical or digital. This is because it should be dark in the hermit crab aquarium at night. But if your room is warm and lit during the day, lighting and Heating is not required.

You need to monitor temperatures by placing a thermometer or two in the tank. You can also get thermometers with such a probe. It’s always a good idea to cover the probe or keep it away from places where hermit crabs can see it, as they will chew on it.

You will also need a hygrometer to check the humidity level in the tank. If you place a thermometer inside, place it well away from the aquarium bottom to see the overall temperature of the aquarium. To keep the humidity in the tank stable, you can use such sea sponges for the hermit crabs. Wet them and place them on their water dish.

In summary, these are the most important basic requirements for a hermit crab tank:

A minimum 10 gallon tank that can house a few hermit crabs like this one. But more space = the better. Glass tanks are the best, plastic tanks might work. Avoid all-metal wire tanks or those without a lid. If your area is very humid it might work.

Lid for the tank (to retain moisture and heat) which is mostly solid with a small vented or mesh area for proper air exchange

Substrate for digging and digging.

Heat Source – Hermit crabs need a warm environment. Get a lightbulb + UVB source with a thermostat (to control temperature) as needed to keep your crabs warm. Can also use an incandescent lamp with a timer (digital/mechanical). There are many options for light bulbs.

(to control temperatures) to keep your crabs warm. Can also be used (digital/mechanical). There are many options for light bulbs. Thermometers and moisture meters (hygrometers) like this one are must-haves for checking temperatures and humidity levels in the tank.

Sea sponges for drinking water and keep the humidity high

Climbing accessories and wooden parts

Water conditioner (to remove chlorine)

Food and water bowls, hides (caves, logs, etc.), plants (plastic, silk)

Bathing bowl – fill with sea water (you will need hermit crab salt like this to mix with water).

Shells for crabs – about 4-5 shells per hermit crab are crucial. Only choose natural/polished shells that are slightly larger than the current shell your hermit is wearing. Avoid glazed or painted shells to avoid adverse health effects.

Thank you for reading this post about hermit crab tank size requirements and setup tips. If you want to learn all about lighting and heating for your hermit crab’s aquarium, choosing the most suitable light bulbs and more, please read this detailed post.

Shipping Information

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Our default shipping method is USPS First Class Mail (no insurance) when shipping items, but we understand this may not work for everyone. We have various shipping upgrades to meet everyone’s needs.

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When a code is used on free shipping weekends, your items will be shipped by First Class or Priority Mail, depending on weight. If you checkout with another shipping method, that method (e.g. Priority Shipping or Priority Express) will not ship unless you have paid for it. You can pay for this by invoice or through my “Shipping Upgrades” link.

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Refunds and Exchanges –

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Additional information –

The information used as the basis for this article was intended for humans and not hermit crabs. We’ve adjusted the list of edible flowers to what we think are safe for hermit crabs. Some may be safe for external remedies but not for consumption.

Written by Julia Crab on Monday May 23, 2005

Did you know that flowers are good for crabs? They contain vitamin C as well as vitamin A and many of the pigmenting substances such as beta-carotene. Since no study has been conducted on the nutritional value of flowers, much of their value remains a mystery. But crabs will happily eat flowers from this edible flower list, preferring them when they wilt and die. Dead flowers are a particular favorite!

Before offering flowers, make sure they haven’t been sprayed with pesticides or other chemicals and that they’ve been fed organic, plant-based foods. Otherwise they are not healthy for your crabs. I often buy bouquets of edible flowers at the organic farmer’s market near my home.

Buds can also be frozen or placed in a food dehydrator. In fact, my crabs seem to prefer the taste of a thawed rose to a freshly wilted one.

Here is our edible flower list. Read the article at the end to be sure which parts of a plant you should use.

Borage flowers (Borago officinalis)

Calendula Flowers (Calendula officinalis) – Also known as “marigolds”

Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus)

Chamomile (Matricaria recutita)

Chickweed

clover (blossoms, leaves)

Daisy (Bellis perennis)

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) (flowers, leaves, roots)

Daylilies (Hemerocallis)

Elderflower (Sambucus canadensis)

Gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.)

Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)

mallow

Honeysuckle flowers (Japanese Lonicera japonica)

Impatiens (Impatiens wallerana)

Jasmine (Jasmine officinale)

Johnny Jump Up Flowers– (Viola tricolor)

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

Milk thistle (Silybum marianum)

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

Pansies (Viola x Wittrockiana) (flowers and leaves)

Passion flowers (Passifloraceae – passion flower family)

petunia

Prickly Pear (flowers and cactus)

Rose (Rosa spp.)

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Pumpkin Blossoms

Sunflower (Helianthus) (flowers, leaves, seeds)

Violet (Viola odorata)

Other Herb Flowers – The small blooming flowers of the following spices are edible: anise, basil, bee balm, chives, coriander (cilantro), dill, fennel, garlic, oregano, rosemary, and thyme.

WHERE TO FIND SAFE, EDIBLE FLOWERS

Edible flowers can often be found at local farmers markets and delis. Check with the seller if they are organic. There are about eighty different flowers that are safe to use as food. The most enjoyable way to get these interesting additions to the diet of your family and parrots is to breed your own!

OWN GROWING

For your first flower garden adventure, common edible flower varieties should be selected. Carefully follow garden flower planting, watering, and fertilizing practices. Only organic pesticides should be used. Separate plots should be used for growing ornamental flowers that require pesticides. Don’t plant other annuals or perennials in the same area as edible flowers, since ornamental pesticides could contaminate the edible varieties. Some gardeners plant their edible flowers indoors in sunny kitchen windows and under grow lights to avoid pesticide contamination.

SAFETY FIRST!

As much as crabs enjoy the variety and visual stimulation of flowers in their diet, it’s important that we know the difference between poisonous and non-toxic varieties, as well as using only untreated flowers. A good reference book on edible flowers, available at local libraries and online, can be used. Do not use flowers from florists, nurseries or garden centers. Unless otherwise noted, these flowers have almost certainly been treated with pesticides not intended for food crops. Chemicals are used in all stages of ornamental plant growth and these chemicals are unsafe for human or parrot consumption. Flowers picked from the roadside should never be eaten by humans or parrots. Highly toxic herbicides are used to get rid of weeds and roadside plants, so roadside flowers can be deadly fare. One of the best books on identifying safe flowers is Thomas S. Elias and Peter A. Dykeman’s Edible Wild Plants: A North American Field Guide (Sterling Publishing Company).

FLOWER REMEDIES

Flowers The Bach flower healing system was developed in the 1930s by British physician Dr. Developed by Edward Bach. The remedies are based on the belief that flowers have healing properties. Flower essences are made through infusion methods and are used to remove negative emotions that can impair health and lead to disease. Bach Flower Remedies are made from the non-toxic flowers of certain trees, plants, and shrubs. They are non-toxic, non-addictive and safe for people and pets of all ages to ingest. If these remedies do indeed have healing properties, perhaps the fresh, non-toxic flowers would have a similar effect. Examples of the healing properties of edible flowers include honeysuckle (pictured) for homesickness, nostalgia and sadness, and impatiens flowers for irritability, impatience, nervous tension and muscle aches.

PARTIAL LIST OF FLOWERS USED IN FLORAL MEDICATIONS

Flowers Aloe Vera Flower, Basil, Blackberry, Bleeding Heart, Borage, Marigold, California Wild Rose, Chamomile, Chrysanthemum, Corn, Dandelion, Dill Flower, Echinacea, Evening Primrose, Garlic, Hibiscus, Iris, Lavender, Spurge, Mullein, Nasturtium (pictured), Peppermint, Pomegranate, Red Clover, Rosemary, Sage, Sunflower, Violet, Yarrow, Yerba Santa.

POISONOUS posy

There are many more flowers that are poisonous than edible. The use of botanical names is important because common names vary in different regions of the country. Two plants can be known by the same common name while one is poisonous and the other is edible. The following is just a partial list of the most common poisonous flowers and their botanical names:

* Anemone or Windflower (Anemone spp.)

* Autumn crocus (Colchicum spp.)

* Azalea and Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.)

* Buttercup (Ranunculus spp.)

* Clematis (Clematis spp.)

* Narcissus (Narcissus spp.)

* Larkspur or Larkspur (Delphinium spp.)

* Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

* Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)

* Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)

* Bearded iris (Iris spp.)

* Lantana (Lantana camara)

* Lobelia or cardinal flower (Lobelia spp.)

* Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris)

* Morning glory (Ipomoea spp.)

* Oleander (Nerium oleander)

* Periwinkle Myrtle and Vinca (Vinca spp.)

* Wisteria (Wisteria spp.)

Additional Resources:

https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants

Click here to access giftous_plants.pdf

http://www.library.illinois.edu/vex/toxic

http://poisonousplants.ansci.cornell.edu/

http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/ccah/dogs/toxic-plant-garden.cfm

Book recommendations:

“Edible Wild Plants: A North American Field Guide” by Thomas S. Elias and Peter A. Dykeman (Sterling Publishing Company).

“Edible Flowers: From Garden to Palate” by Cathy Wilkinson Barash (Fulcrum Publishing, 1993, 1995 $22.95)

Note on Winged Wisdom: Carolyn Swicegood is a devoted fan of Eclectus parrots. Their aviary, The Land of Vos, specializes in the Vosmaeri subspecies. Carolyn has written for a variety of magazines and is currently Associate Editor of Watchbird magazine, published by the American Federation of Aviculture. http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww38eii.htm

Special thanks to Vanessa Pike-Russell for locating and providing the article.

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How to tell when a pet hermit crab is sick. Hermit crabs are fairly resilient animals, but they can eventually get sick. You should monitor your pet hermit crab daily to spot the first signs of illness.

Spend a few minutes each day checking on your hermit crabs. Note which crabs are digging, burrowing, or climbing. Also look for crabs that are losing legs, walking around without a shell, or failing to retreat into their shells. These are the main signs that a hermit crab is sick.

Watch crabs lose their legs. When adapting to a new environment, it is normal for a crab to lose a leg or two. If at any point one of your pet crabs starts losing legs rapidly, it is likely ill.

Look for mites, which appear as white or brown spots on the crab. They are usually seen crawling on the crab. Mites, while not necessarily a disease, are not good for your pet.

Isolate any hermit crabs that are not curling up in their shell. This crab is probably sick, and you don’t want your other pets to get sick.

Realize that if hermit crabs become dormant, their habitat may not be suitable, which can result in them becoming ill. Even in appropriate environments, your crab can become ill and inactive.

Examine your hermit crabs for mold or fungus. If you find any on your crab, you should isolate and bathe the crab. You should also provide a new tank in case your pet wants to switch to a cleaner tank.

Tips Most “sick” hermit crabs can be helped by simply adjusting the temperature and humidity in the aquarium. Provide the hermit crab with an isolation tank with enough substrate for it to fully burrow and plenty of food and water. Your pet may be preparing to molt and will need the same care as an ailing hermit crab.

Warnings A strong, fishy odor means your hermit crab has died. While a molting crab may be calm and have a faint odor, a strong odor indicates the crab has died. There is much debate as to whether or not hermit crabs should be bathed by submerging them in water for just under three minutes. If your crab is constantly sick or losing legs, the baths can stress it out. Switch to a more natural in-tank bathing system.

If your crab spends its time digging in its substrate, it’s best to leave it alone. It’s important to monitor the time your hermit crab spends under the substrate, so record when it burrows. If your crab hasn’t surfaced in four weeks, you can carefully remove some substrate from it to make sure it’s not dead. If he seems to be molting, carefully cover him up again and continue to leave him alone.

This article is no longer updated. Please use the new, comprehensive feeding list for hermit crabs

Hermit crabs love moss! Not only is it a great way to create and maintain moisture, but your crabs will burrow into it and even eat it. The key is to pick safe moss. This page is intended to give you a starting point for determining which types of moss are safe for your hermit crabs.

There are over 1200 species of moss so it would be impossible to address them all. Below are the most common types. In all cases, you’re looking for 100% natural, chemical-free and dye-free moss. If you collect your own live moss, know what you are collecting and do not collect from areas that may have been sprayed with chemicals or pesticides or that contain pine needles/pinecones.

Unsafe Moss

Peat Moss (Sometimes this is referred to as Sphagnum Peat Moss)

ladybug15057 replied:

With a quick search, here are a few links on peat moss:

“Don’t confuse peat moss with peat moss. Peat moss and peat moss are not the same product. Peat moss is used in the floral industry to line wire baskets and make wreaths. It is the LIVING moss that grows on a peat moss. This is a safe moss. Sphagnum peat moss is used by gardeners as a soil conditioner. It is the dead material that accumulates in the lower layers of a peat moss. Horticultural peat moss harvesters remove the top few inches of living peat moss before harvesting the peat from the lower levels of the bog.

There has also been some confusion as to which of the two is actually the source of a fungal disease called cutaneous sporotrichosis, which is causing some concern in gardening circles, according to Gerry Hood of the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association. Sporotrichosis is a chronic infection characterized by ulcerative skin lesions caused by contact with the fungus Sporothrix schenckii. Research has found no cases of sphagnum peat moss being transmitted by sphagnum peat moss. However, the fungus Sporothrix schenckii lives in the uppermost, living part of the bog, which is removed before the peat is harvested.”

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/m/mossph54.html

http://www.ipcc.ie/infosphagnum.html

http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/articles/misc/sphagnum.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphagnum

Peat moss can also acidify its environment by absorbing cations such as calcium and magnesium and releasing hydrogen ions.

cypress

Sue Latell replied:

Cypress is a conifer. Softwood/needles are poisonous to crayfish if swallowed. Crabs typically graze on their substrates, making cypress a poor substrate. Cypress mulch really is best for carnivorous reptiles according to my herp expert. Used only for EXTERNAL use, cypress has toxic properties to most mammals and other animals, and depending on the species of cypress, arsenic is the most common.

Spanish moss (sometimes called cypress moss) is often treated with chemicals

Reindeer/Caribou (lichen) Moss – usually colored and therefore unsafe.

Safe Moss

Frogmoss / Cushion Moss

Sold by ZooMed

All natural frog moss for use with frogs, toads, salamanders, garter or green snakes and all other types of moss. Use as a top substrate or decorative accent in vivarium/terrarium applications.

Frog moss (also called “cushion moss”) comes back to life and grows under suitable terrarium conditions.

A beautiful decorative live moss to accentuate your naturalistic terrarium.

Increases humidity in terrariums, making it perfect for any type of reptile or amphibian that loves high humidity.

Additional information:

Zoo Med Frogmoss can be washed and reused several times before it needs to be replaced with new moss.

beak moss

100% natural terrarium moss is ideal for amphibians and reptiles that inhabit humid environments. The moss retains moisture and creates a higher humidity level that is beneficial to tropical and forest species. Ideal for chameleons, frogs, green anoles, rainforest geckos, salamanders and newts.

• Retains moisture

• Provides a realistic environment for reptiles and amphibians

• All natural (no dyes or chemicals)

Moisture stability with natural beauty

From Oregon’s lush coniferous rainforests we harvest a moisture-loving moss where tropical reptiles thrive. Its natural moisture-retaining properties keep humidity levels evenly high while creating a beautiful carpet of green, the closest thing to rainforest reptiles. Looks great and your favorite pet will love having it under their feet! Because it’s 100% biodegradable, mulch it in your garden for natural disposal.

Ideal for chameleons, frogs, green anoles, rainforest geckos, salamanders and newts.

Zill Schnabelmoos

Flukers makes dyed and undyed moss. Both are listed as all natural. However, they are easy to distinguish. The uncolored is perfectly safe, the jury is on the other side.

Hiawatha Moss

Hiawatha moss is grown naturally in the Pacific Northwest. 100% natural terrarium moss is ideal for amphibians and reptiles that inhabit humid environments. The moss retains moisture and creates a higher humidity level that is beneficial to tropical and forest species.

Leaf (Hypnum) Moss

Leaf moss or hypnum moss is transplantable and can be a moss that you could get to grow live inside your crab.

Exo Terra sells Forest Moss which is actually feather moss and I have used it in my aquarium with no problems.

The Exo Terra Forest Moss Tropical Terrarium Substrate is real compressed moss grown in tropical Asia. This ecological substrate is ideal for increasing the humidity in the terrarium and is perfectly safe for frogs, salamanders and burrowing or burrowing animals. The Exo Terra Forest Moss Tropical Terrarium Substrate is extremely absorbent and is recommended in humidified shelters such as the Exo Terra Snake Cave or Reptile Cave. It is also an ideal egg-laying or breeding medium.

peat moss

Used in the floral industry to line wire baskets and make wreaths. It is the LIVING moss that grows on a peat moss. This is a safe moss.

Don’t forget the moss – Naturally Crabby

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Crabs look like sand dollars with legs! There are more than 4,500 species of crabs of different sizes. The most common crabs are about the size of your hand, while the largest crab, the giant Japanese spider crab, has a body 15 inches in diameter and legs that span 9 to 12 feet from the tip of one pincer to the next! The smallest crab is the pea crab, and as the name suggests, it is the size of a pea. You’re probably familiar with hermit crabs, the orange crabs with black beady eyes that live in shells, but these aren’t actually crabs because they’re soft-bodied and can’t grow their own shell like real crabs.

Most crabs live in the ocean or on ocean beaches, but there are some species found in freshwater and rivers. Let’s look at what crabs eat.

Crabs eat fish, shrimp, algae and worms. A-Z-Tiere.com

How do crabs hunt?

Some crabs actively prey on smaller crabs, fish, and crustaceans (shrimp, krill, shrimp). The Dungeness crab scours the seabed in search of prey, using its large claws to snag a passing squid, for example. The red king crab has one claw larger than the other and is used to crush its prey. Edible crabs also hunt their prey, including smaller crabs. Other crabs are scavengers and spend their time foraging for carrion, dead animals, and plants. Scavengers will eat just about anything they can find that has settled on the ocean floor.

What do crabs eat?

A fiddler crab showing off its massive pincers iStock.com/sdbower

Crabs are omnivorous. Smaller crabs eat seaweed, seaweed, worms, small clams and shrimp. Larger crabs can eat squid, snails, clams, other crabs and small fish. Some crab species can eat hard food like barnacles, starfish, and even sand dollars. Depending on the species, there are carnivores, omnivores and vegetarians.

A complete list of what crabs eat:

Small fish

Smaller crabs

crustaceans

shrimp

krill

shrimp

carrion

Octopus

Small shells

seaweed

mussels

whelks

algae

What eats crayfish?

An otter eats a crab Jean-Edouard Rozey/Shutterstock.com

If you’ve ever eaten crab legs with butter sauce, you know that humans eat (and enjoy!) crab. Blue crab is a popular crab, with Maryland being the leading harvester and processor in the United States. Almost fifty percent of US crab comes from the Chesapeake Bay. Alaskan king crabs are large crabs that live off the coast of Alaska. They can have leg spans of up to 5 feet! That’s a lot of crab meat. In the UK, the most common crab is the brown crab, or edible crab (I’m not a linguistic genius, but if you have the word ‘edible’ in your name I think your fate is set!). These crabs are found on every coast of the UK and are plentiful.

In the wild, large crabs like the Alaskan king crab have few natural predators. However, smaller crab species can be eaten by fish-eating birds such as the gray heron, larger fish and sea turtles.

What does the smallest crab eat?

The smallest crab, the pea crab, is more like a parasite. It lives in the shells of other molluscs and clams. They eat what’s left of what their host eats. But since pea crabs are so small, you can imagine that they have a very minimal diet.

What does the biggest crab eat?

Japanese spider crab at Manila Ocean Park Tsarli at en.wikipedia/Creative Commons

The largest crab, the Japanese giant crab, is a scavenger and feeds on dead animals and dead plants that it can find. Others open shells of mollusks and eat the meat inside. These giant crabs live at great depths and are therefore not threatened by humans. You can live to be 100!

Hermit crabs don’t need an elaborate home, but the right temperature and humidity are critical to their health. Land hermit crabs, the most common type of pet, hail from warm tropical climates and therefore need a warm, humid environment to survive.

Choice of tank

Hermit crabs feel comfortable in both a glass and a plastic tank. Choose a 10-gallon aquarium with a lid. A sliding glass works well to contain moisture. The small plastic houses with accessories sold as hermit crab kits are undersized, although these plastic cages make excellent temporary homes or isolation tanks. Despite their name, hermits are very social and are best kept in groups.

The substrate

Sand is the substrate of choice for hermit crabs because they like to burrow in it. Playground sand, which can be found at hardware stores, works well and is inexpensive, although aquarium sand is fine too. You may want to rinse, dry and bake (at 300 degrees Fahrenheit) the sand to sterilize it and it can be washed again and used again. Calcium-based sand is beautiful and comes in a variety of colors, but is expensive.

Other options include fiber bedding for reptiles like the coir-based bedding called Forest Bedding. The fiber is quite finely ground and is almost like soil, making it good for digging. Shredded coral is also a good choice, but you may want to provide an area with forest litter or sand, as your hermit crabs may prefer these substrates for molting. Avoid using gravel or wood chips.

maintaining the right temperature

Hermit crabs are happiest kept at 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 27 degrees Celsius). If the temperature drops below 72 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis, the crabs are likely to become weak, stressed, and sick. Unless you live in a tropical climate, you will need to use a heater, at least part of the time, to keep the shrimp tank at optimal temperatures. Under-tank heaters (UTHs), lamps, or a combination of both can be used to maintain adequate temperatures.

The UTHs can be placed under one end of the tank to provide a warm side and a cooler side. These raise the temperature a few degrees above room temperature. For ideal temperature control, these can be paired with a thermostat to maintain a specific temperature, or you can set them on a timer that turns on and off to maintain the temperature. Invest in a good thermometer for inside the tank and monitor the temperature near the substrate. If the heater isn’t heating the tank sufficiently, try removing some of the substrates above the heater – the thinner substrate increases the heat in the tank. If the tank gets too warm, you can increase the depth of the substrate. It may take some experimentation to get good, stable temperatures. Make sure there is a temperature gradient in the tank so the crabs have a range of temperatures.

Lights of various types can also provide heat for the tank; It may also require experimenting with lighting to find the combination of lighting and UTH that works best for your tank.

lighting

In the past, it was thought that hermit crabs were nocturnal and that providing light to the crabs could be stressful. However, low wattage incandescent bulbs and special night lights are a good option, and many crab owners have found that their crabs become more active with lights, even basking near the lights when lighting is added to the tank. Ensure a light-dark cycle, e.g. B. 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. This means that daylight or fluorescent lights should only be off at night, although special night lights can be used if desired. Using a desk lamp to heat the tank or high wattage reptile bulbs can overheat the tank and cause it to dry out, so these are not recommended.

The easiest way to add lighting is to use a reptile heating/lighting hood over the tank. There are hoods with two ceramic sockets for light bulbs; A day light bulb can be attached on one side and a night light bulb on the other. It’s best to start with 15-watt bulbs and only move to higher wattages when needed, especially with a 10-gallon tank. If needed, wooden slats can be used to raise the hood slightly above the glass if it gets too hot. Some cooker hoods have a third fitting for a fluorescent lamp and some owners have reported good results with a Reptisun 2.0 fluorescent lamp. Reptile thermal hoods are best used on tanks or glass covered screens, although screen surfaces make humidity control difficult as the lights get quite warm and could melt the plastic. A combination of lighting and under-tank heating can be used to heat the tank.

humidity

In addition to the right temperature, sufficient humidity in the aquarium is of crucial importance for hermit crabs. Because crabs “breathe” through gills, proper oxygen exchange by the crabs depends on humidity. If the tank air is too dry, the crabs will practically suffocate. They need a relative humidity of about 70 to 80 percent. Because this is so important to the crabs, it’s worth investing in a moisture meter called a hygrometer, which you can find in the reptile section of any pet store. Excessive humidity is also not desirable as it causes condensation and encourages the growth of bacteria and fungi in the tank.

The bowl of water you provide in the tank will likely be sufficient to create the proper humidity as long as the tank is closed with solid sides and a solid top. If you need to raise the humidity, try putting a fairly large piece of natural sea sponge in a bowl of water (remember to always use dechlorinated water). The sponge can absorb a lot of water and has many surfaces for evaporation to increase humidity. Keep a few sponges handy so you can swap out and clean them often (soak them in very hot dechlorinated water or a sea salt and water mix and then let them dry completely as they are a good medium for bacterial growth). If a mesh or vented lid makes moisture control difficult, the lid can be modified by covering most of the top with plastic wrap or clear tape.

cage equipment

For setting up the cage there are three things to climb on, a water bowl and a food bowl.

Climbing: Land hermit crabs love to climb, and this is a good way to exercise. Choya (or cholla) wood is ideal and can be arranged to allow climbing. Bits of coral, driftwood, and other types of wood can be used – the reptile section of the pet store is a good place to look for a variety, or check out the online hermit crab retailers listed below. Artificial plants are also a great addition to the crab tank. Change things up regularly or add different items to add some variety and interest to the crabs. Some enterprising individuals even use Legos to build climbing structures for their crabs.

Land hermit crabs love to climb, and this is a good way to exercise. Choya (or cholla) wood is ideal and can be arranged to allow climbing. Bits of coral, driftwood, and other types of wood can be used – the reptile section of the pet store is a good place to look for a variety, or check out the online hermit crab retailers listed below. Artificial plants are also a great addition to the crab tank. Change things up regularly or add different items to add some variety and interest to the crabs. Some enterprising individuals even use Legos to build climbing structures for their crabs. Water: Hermit crabs should have access to both fresh and salt water, so you’ll need two water bowls. They should be large and deep enough for the crabs to get into when they want to soak – especially the saltwater bowl – but easy to get out of and not so deep that there is a risk of drowning. Strawberry Hermit Crabs should be given a salt tank deep enough to be completely submerged in it, but it doesn’t need to be that deep for most species. For deeper bowls, smooth river rocks or pieces of coral can be used as ramps or steps for the crabs to get out of the water. You should also put natural sea sponges in the water bowls; Some crabs press on them to drink water and they help regulate humidity. Any water given to the hermit crabs or used in the tank should be dechlorinated (the drops are available at pet stores). Saltwater should be prepared with marine aquarium salt such as Instant Ocean (a marine aquarium mix), not freshwater aquarium salt, and never table salt.

Hermit crabs should have access to both fresh and salt water, so you’ll need two water bowls. They should be large and deep enough for the crabs to get into when they want to soak – especially the saltwater bowl – but easy to get out of and not so deep that there is a risk of drowning. Strawberry Hermit Crabs should be given a salt tank deep enough to be completely submerged in it, but it doesn’t need to be that deep for most species. For deeper bowls, smooth river rocks or pieces of coral can be used as ramps or steps for the crabs to get out of the water. You should also put natural sea sponges in the water bowls; Some crabs press on them to drink water and they help regulate humidity. Any water given to the hermit crabs or used in the tank should be dechlorinated (the drops are available at pet stores). Saltwater should be prepared with marine aquarium salt such as Instant Ocean (a marine aquarium mix), not freshwater aquarium salt, and never table salt. Food: For dinnerware, you want something flat, sturdy, and easy to clean. You can find flattened, heavy plastic bowls with a stone look in the reptile department or flat ceramic bowls for small animals. Some people also use natural shells for feeding.

The Spruce / Ashley Deleon Nicole