High Gloss Mdf Bath Panel? The 25 Correct Answer

How to install a bathtub panel

If you own or have purchased a bathtub that is not freestanding, you will need at least one bathtub panel; But how do you customize a bathtub panel?

Depending on the type and position of the bathtub in your bathroom, you can have up to three panels – one for each exposed side. Aside from covering the underside of the tub, a bathtub siding also covers the plumbing and prevents water from seeping underneath, which can lead to mold growth.

Bath panels come in all shapes, sizes and materials and can be either functional or more decorative – continuing the decor of the room or blending in with your flooring. A bathtub panel is an easy way to add a refreshment to your bathroom.

That’s why Plumbworld created this guide to all things bathtub paneling and we’re going to discuss how to fit a bathtub panel, the different types, how to cut them and more…

What is a bathtub panel?

Bathtub panels are usually paired with straight bath tubs – single or double sided – to hide the plumbing and underside of the tub and to protect the floor below from splashes. All bathrooms have at least one panel for a bathtub and a maximum of three – they can cover both ends or both sides and the front.

The different types of bathtub panels come in a range of designs and finishes, including acrylic, wood, mirror and even storage panels. A bathtub panel is one of the easiest ways to quickly remodel your bathroom without spending large bucks on flooring or appliances.

Always make sure to coordinate the panel with your surrounding decor, whether it’s your floor, a vanity or walls.

What are bathtub panels made of?

Bathtub panels are traditionally made from two materials – acrylic and wood, usually MDF. Wooden bathtub panels range in thickness from 5mm to 18mm, while acrylic bathtub panels have a fiberglass core wrapped in plastic. They are often cheaper than MDF boards and are easier to cut as they are thinner.

What size is a bathtub panel?

Bath panels are available in similar sizes to standard bathtubs; The most common bath size in the UK is 1700mm long.

Due to the different sizes of bathtubs, most bathtub fronts have the following sizes:

1500mm long

1600mm long

1700mm long

1800mm long

These measurements are for front bath panels – the longest part of the bath.

700mm long

750mm long

800mm length for bath side panels – the ends of the bath

Most panels are not adjustable. So if you need to resize, you’ll have to cut it yourself – either in height or in length due to tiling, plumbing or skirting boards. Most bathtub panels are available as a single piece with a fixed height. However, two-piece bathtub panels are often found with one panel and a separate base that attaches to it, usually at the back.

How to install a bathtub panel

Installing a bathtub panel can be straightforward if you want to save the extra money of hiring a professional – especially if you’re just installing a new panel.

Before we get to the step-by-step process, you must first have the right equipment…

What do I need to install a bathtub panel?

The tools and equipment you will need are:

gloves

saw

spirit level

screws

drill or screwdriver

tape measure

sealant

adhesive

Wooden slats

brackets

Measure

First you need to determine your measurements from the edge of the tub to the floor so that you know how high the plate should be. If your tub has a unique shape, you may need to measure the length as well.

Cut

If you find that you need to cut off excess panels, use your hacksaw. Let the saw do the work, only push and pull carefully and slowly to avoid an uneven cut or damage to the panel – especially an acrylic bathtub panel.

Remember that you should take any pipes and baseboards into account when cutting.

Then place the panel back against the tub, checking with a spirit level that it is level and seated properly.

slats

If you are attaching two panels – to form an “L” shape with a side panel and an end panel – you will need strips of wood to join the two pieces together. The slats should be of soft wood that screws easily into the surface – if screws are used. If you are using a base for your panel, make sure the batten leaves plenty of room.

If you don’t want to use screws, you can use strong glue to attach the slats.

For attaching a single plate, such. B. the long front bathtub panel, you can attach flat slats to the underside of the panel. This way it keeps the panel upright on your bathroom floor – such as a bathroom floor. B. tiles – and at the same time ensures a seamless connection between panel and floor.

base

If you are using a base that is not already attached you may need to trim it so follow the instructions above. Then attach it to the main panel with glue.

Trick: Use PVA glue for a waterproof seal on bare wooden edges – either on a base or a board.

positioning

When your panel – or panels – are ready, position them to see how they will sit against the bathtub and wall. If you have made an “L” shaped panel it can be left freestanding if secure enough. However, there are options for fixing a panel in place.

If you are simply replacing a panel, you might find that there is a batten attached to the wall to which you can attach the panel. Therefore, you can apply glue to the panel to attach it to the batten. You can use a batten on the back of the panel to attach it to the wall batten. If you don’t already have a wall batten, you may need to attach one.

Lay your panel against the wall and mark where it meets. Then remove the panel and take a batten and line it up with the edge of your mark under the tub rim. Fix it to the wall with glue or screws.

You must do this for each point where your panel meets the wall.

attach

Apply glue to the inside of your panel ends where they meet the wall batten. Then position your panel and attach it to the batten. If excess glue comes out due to applying too much, wipe it off quickly.

seal

Finally, apply some silicone sealant to the joints between the panel and the wall to create a watertight finish and smooth it out.

How to install an acrylic bathtub panel

The process for installing an acrylic tub panel is similar to wood paneling, however you will need a length of folded lumber or lumber for each tub panel you are installing.

Rebated lumber is lumber that has a groove cut into the edge so you can slide the board in under the groove.

Position your panel on the bathtub and note the measurements. If necessary, make adjustments such as cropping and then check that everything fits. Mark where the board will sit and then align your rabbet/batten against it. Thanks to its ribbed edge, the fold should allow the lower edge of the panel to be pushed in. If necessary, adjust the fold. Fix the fold to the floor with screws and drill or glue. Since this is the floor, it may be better to use screws. Always check for pipes and cables with a detector before drilling into the ground. Finally, tuck your bathtub panel into position. Repeat the process for a side tub panel.

Olli Lyon

Ollie is a self-trained handyman who has a particular love for kitchen and bathroom renovations. In his free time, Ollie enjoys biking and hiking.

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Medium-density fiberboard, or MDF, is an extremely versatile, inexpensive wood product that has many uses including shelving, cabinetry, furniture, and molding. Made from heat-pressed recycled wood fiber and resin, it’s available in laminate, veneer and lacquer finishes, very strong, easy to work with and less likely to crack and chip. However, if you have a project in a high humidity area, you will need to use or make waterproof MDF, otherwise the material will begin to deteriorate with constant exposure to water and moisture.

While it should never be used outdoors or in an application where it will be regularly exposed to water, there are two approaches to “impregnating” MDF so it can withstand moisture in high humidity areas: Use ure Resistant (MR) MDF or waterproof it yourself. It should be noted that regardless of the method used, MDF is moisture resistant, not water resistant or waterproof, and it is still prone to swelling and warping when in direct contact with the elements.

The first and easiest approach is to purchase MR MDF, which is suitable for interior applications where moisture is an issue. Compared to standard MDF, moisture-resistant MDF is still easy to sand and mill, tolerates most glues, veneers and paints well, but is made with a moisture-resistant resin. It’s ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and boiler rooms and laundry rooms, and while it’s slightly more expensive than standard MDF, the moisture-resistant property makes it worth the investment.

You can also create waterproof MDF by adding a quality wood sealant, varnish, or stain or moisture resistant paint so your project can withstand the threat of moisture and moisture. Do not use water based polyurethane as it may not bond easily to the MDF surface.

You need to start with a latex primer or a primer specifically designed for MDF. Use a 3/8 inch paint roller to apply the primer and a brush to get into any areas that otherwise can’t be reached. Allow the primer to dry for six hours.

Step two is applying the sealant or waterproof paint with a 3/8 inch roller. Use a brush to paint the corners and edges. This layer should take about four hours to dry.

Step three is your final coat of paint or sealer; Allow at least three days to dry to make the MDF moisture resistant.

Proper silicone sealing of a bathroom is essential if you want to ensure you have a fully waterproof area that won’t rot and mold easily.

Where do I have to seal so that I don’t get any leaks?

You must seal any joints between dissimilar surfaces with a waterproof sanitary silicone sealant if they are in wet areas such as a bathroom. B. around bathtubs, showers, shower enclosures and sinks.

The main areas in a bathroom that need sealing are as follows:

Around the edge of a tub, it meets a different surface everywhere

The outer edges of a shower screen

Where a cymbal sits on the surface, it is fixed

box and floor edges

Between panel connections when contained in wet areas

drain grates for pools

Any area subject to splashing and runoff

How do I apply silicone sealant?

Make sure you have a decent sealant gun as this is essential for easy application to desired areas.

Quick tip: Before applying the sealer, make sure that the surface is absolutely dust-free and dry. This allows the sealant to properly adhere to the surfaces. Skipping this step would result in poor adhesion, gaps, and dust that could become embedded in the sealant.

Simply apply a continuous small bead of sealant along the joint. Be careful not to apply too much as it can be difficult to remove while maintaining a smooth seal.

Important preparations

Be sure to fill the bath fully with water before sealing. The reason for this is that with regular use of your bath, there will be small movements that push and pull the seal.

Filling your tub with water while sealing simulates this added weight and movement. Applying the sealant during this time will ensure that future movements of the bath will not pull it apart.

When caulking a shower enclosure, make sure you only caulk the outside of the enclosure and any joints recommended in the manufacturer’s instructions. The reason for this is that water that gets behind the profiles or under the partition should have the opportunity to flow back into the shower area.

Otherwise, the water will stagnate, resulting in bad smells. The water on the inside will degrade your sealant much faster than normal, resulting in leaks and black mold sealant.

Smoothing the seal

Now comes the hard part, smoothing the silicone into the joint and removing the excess. You should wet the tip of your index finger and gently run the tip along the joint. Be sure to maintain a constant angle all the way.

You want to try to make the silicone as smooth and even as possible. This prevents excessive foaming and allows water to drain smoothly, making the seal last longer.

Dampening your finger before smoothing prevents the silicone from sticking too much to your finger, allowing you to achieve a smooth, sealed joint with no spread.

Quick tip: Fill a spray bottle with soapy water and lightly spray the silicone before smoothing. The soap and water will prevent the silicone from sticking to your finger and spreading too much onto surfaces, making it easy to remove excess.

Important tip: After application, allow the silicone to cure for a full 24 hours before entering the area.

Are there tools that can help me?

There are also various silicone application tools specifically designed to give a nice finish, available at your local hardware store or online. Most silicone removal tools also have a smoothing tip to help with proper application.

We recommend the Cramer 5-Fugi Kit, it comes in a variety of sizes to help with most joint gaps.

Apply the same methods outlined above when using silicone smoothing tools. Lightly dampen the area and tool to smooth and remove excess after each use.

What type/color of silicone should I use?

When it comes to buying the right silicone for your bathroom, you want something that can withstand very wet and humid environments.

It is important to buy the best quality. While it tends to cost more than average, it’s worth spending a little more to ensure a higher quality, longer lasting sealer. They also tend to be thicker, making it easier to apply.

Another reason to spend good money on silicone is that removing old moldy sealant is very tedious and time consuming. Not to mention the potential damage that will result from removing it at the site.

You must use a sanitary silicone sealant. They are specially designed to be more resilient to the large volumes of water and humid wet areas they are exposed to.

The use of non-hygienic sealants will cause the gasket to turn black with mold very quickly.

You can also buy different colors of silicone. The most commonly purchased are white or clear. Colored sanitary sealants are also available depending on what suits the area required.

How do I keep the silicone in good condition?

Sealants will deteriorate over time and eventually the silicone you apply will start to mold. How quickly this happens depends on how well the silicone has been applied to the area and how well the area has been cared for.

Silicone turns black and moldy due to the high humidity, heat and humidity in the environment.

When you wash, shampoo, soap, and dead skin cells end up on your silicone seals. This makes a nice, tasty meal for bacteria. Combined with the damp and humid conditions, bacteria and mold thrive.

Here are some quick tips to ensure your sealer lasts longer:

After showering, leave the cabinet doors open

Clear the area of ​​standing water by wiping the surrounding surfaces with a cloth or sponge

Do not leave wet shower towels or sponges directly on the silicone seals

Keep it clean when cleaning your bathroom, don’t overlook the seals, wipe it well

Ensure good ventilation of the area, e.g. B. by an extractor fan or an openable window.

Apply the silicone as smoothly as possible, this prevents deposits and allows the water to drain off

If you follow the instructions and tips above, your silicone will last a long time. You can even extend the average lifespan of the seal.

It should sit flush, actually slightly recessed. Need a router to take a chunk out of the top and bottom for that to happen. MDF is the last thing I would use for a bathtub panel, make sure it’s fully sealed or it will soak up water and blow up.

Click to expand…

color matching? Ensure the perfect match by ordering samples of the actual finishes we use to cover our panels and doors.

Choosing the right bathtub panel

Materials for bathroom panelling

Most bathtub panels are made of either MFC, standard MDF, moisture-resistant MDF, water-resistant MDF, or acrylic. Our AQUACLOAK moisture and water resistant MDF panels are strong and will not bend like acrylic panels when fitted correctly, providing a much more durable panel for your bathroom.

When choosing an MDF board, keep the following in mind: Choosing the right board for your bathroom can be more difficult than you think. At BathPanelStore.co.uk we pride ourselves on offering our customers the best possible choice of bath panels. Here are a few things to consider when choosing the panels that work best for you and your bathroom. Most bathtub panels are made of either MFC, standard MDF, moisture-resistant MDF, water-resistant MDF, or acrylic. Our AQUACLOAK moisture and water resistant MDF panels are strong and will not bend like acrylic panels when fitted correctly, providing a much more durable panel for your bathroom. When choosing an MDF board, pay attention to the following:

Thickness of the board (typically 5mm – 18mm) – the thicker the board, the less likely it is to bend and the end result will look more solid

Whether wrapped or sprayed. “Vinyl wrapped” means the panel has been wrapped in a plastic coating – this makes the finish very consistent, it’s water resistant longer and the finish will last for the life of the panel. “Sprayed” means the panel has been sprayed with a color to give it its final finish

Acrylic bathroom panels have the following characteristics

Very easy to cut but easy to split if tapped after installation

Cheap

Front panels 1500mm, 1600mm, 1700mm, 1800mm, 1900mm

End plates 700mm, 750mm, 800mm

These sizes will fit most installations and the standard 1700mm is the most common size in the UK. However, not all installations are created equal, so in addition to the standard size bathtub panels, we also manufacture various sizes as standard including 750mm, 900mm, 1200mm, 1400mm, 1500mm, 1675mm and 1680mm. These sizes are usually suitable for bathrooms with mobility basins or old cast iron bathtubs.

For new installations, bathtubs can usually be adjusted in height using the bathtub feet provided, but if you are replacing a bathtub panel and are unable to adjust the bathtub height due to tiling, plumbing, etc., you will need to check the panel height carefully. Each manufacturer seems to make panels with slightly different heights so please check before ordering. Most panels are either:

1 piece – a fixed height and not adjustable

2 pieces – a fixed height panel and a separate pedestal to be installed either in front of or behind the main panel at the required height; This option also helps to cleanly work sloping floors

For bathrooms with very specific needs or just to simplify installation, we offer a

Designs of the bath panelling

Bathtub panels are now available in more and more styles and more and more people are choosing to add color or texture to their bathrooms with the bathtub panels. Default colors are now:

For bathrooms with very specific requirements, or just to simplify installation, we offer a bespoke, custom-sized bathtub panel service – this service allows you to provide us with the exact dimensions of the bathtub panels you require. We will then manufacture it in our factory to your specifications and ship it to your home for you to easily install. Bathtub panels are now available in more and more designs and more and more people are choosing to add color or texture to their bathroom with the bathtub panels. Default colors are now:

The panels are also available in a wood finish to match furniture, wall cabinets and toilet seats; These wood effects include:

As well as bath paneling in stone look such

Other bathroom panel ideas

We’re always looking for new and inventive things to do with bathtub panels and in recent years our product ranges have expanded with a number of great and exciting ideas such as:

We’re always looking for new and inventive things to do with bathtub panels and in recent years our product ranges have expanded with a number of great and exciting ideas such as crowded bathrooms, low bathtub panels for easier entry and exit of the bathtub and extra high bathtub panels for elevated bathtub installations. We’ve also launched two new proprietary brands to help the more creative homeowner and installer. Marinex Marine Ply Bathtub Panels are perfect for tiling and TubCraft Bathtub Panels allow you to paint your bathtub panels to match walls or bathroom furniture.

LED lighting

storage and delivery

Your panel will be delivered by our couriers TNT; TNT will send an email to confirm delivery and will require a signature upon delivery. Once you have your new panel, remove it from the protective card and check that the panel is correct. Then put it back into the protection card and lay it flat on the ground to acclimate before installing. If you are storing the record for a long period of time, it is important that it is placed on a flat surface.

Bathroom lighting is becoming increasingly important – why not push the boat out and choose one of our LED bathroom panels? These are fully waterproof and will add the wow factor to any bathroom. These should be installed by a qualified electrician and connected to the bathroom lighting circuit to be controlled with the main lights or to a separate switch to create mood lighting in your bathroom. Your panel will be delivered by our couriers TNT; TNT will send an email to confirm delivery and will require a signature upon delivery. Once you have your new panel, remove it from the protective card and check that the panel is correct. Then put it back into the protection card and lay it flat on the ground to acclimate before installing. If you are storing the record for a long period of time, it is important that it is placed on a flat surface.

frequently asked Questions

Question: What is a tub edge lip?

Answers:

A bath panel lip is a 5mm extension to the top edge of the bath panel, only available in our 15 and 18mm range. It is useful to slide the panel under the tub rim when installing to keep the top of the panel flush. However, this can make installation difficult as most bathtubs have an uneven bottom edge. For best results, choose a panel without a rim and attach the panel securely to your bathtub frame or the slats that surround the bathtub’s edges.

Question: Do I need a frame to attach my MDF board to?

Answers:

A bathtub panel frame is advisable and should ideally consist of 1.5″-2″ batons; This will help support your panel and strengthen your bath. A simple construction, as shown in the image below, gives you ultimate support and allows you to attach your new panel easily and securely.

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Is your bathroom a little lackluster? Does it need a little love? Get ready to become your very own DIY designer as we show you how to paint a bathtub in just an afternoon of work.

Our bathrooms have a tough job to do. They have to be practical, they have to be comfortable, but they also have to be attractive. We use them every day without exception, and as we’re spending more time at home than ever before, they understandably feel the pressure to look fresh.

One way to show some love to your bathroom is with a total color makeover, and there are many bathroom color ideas to choose from. If your walls don’t need attention and it’s that slug of metal in your bathroom, then painting your bathtub could be the ideal solution.

“Colour blocking is a simple, contemporary way to inject color into a small space without being overwhelming. Mix and match contrasting shades for an interesting combination and a striking finish that really frames a room’s features. The bathroom itself is a wonderful place to add color,” says Ruth Mottershead, Creative Director at Little Greene (opens in new tab).

How to paint a bath

(Image credit: Future Plc/Colin Poole)

We promise it’s easy to transform your tub, but don’t reach for the paintbrush just yet. Make sure you’ve read through our guide and gathered what you need first. Bathrooms get hot and muggy so it’s important to make sure you’re using the right materials. These must withstand the humidity in the room.

Whether you have a classic cast iron freestanding bathtub or a built-in plastic tub, both can be painted and both can benefit from a nice coat of paint. Ideally, you should paint your bathtub before it is fitted and installed in your bathroom, but it can also be painted after the fact. Whether you fancy gray bathroom ideas or something brighter, here’s how to paint your bathroom to give your bathroom a mini makeover.

what you will need

Newspaper or plastic films to protect your floors

One primer for multiple surfaces

A fine sandpaper

A quality brush

Your chosen stain in an eggshell emulsion

1. Prepare your surface

Before you begin, lay out the newspaper or plastic wrap to protect your floors. Check the surface of your bath for dirt, dust or scuffs. Quickly clean the surface with a damp cloth. If it has been previously painted, it must be quickly sanded with a fine paper.

Patrick O’Donnell, Farrow & Ball Brand Ambassador (opens in new tab) advises: “If you have a cast iron clawfoot spa it’s easy to remodel, but don’t skimp on the prep! First sand back the original paint color, then wash clean with warm soapy water.’

2. Apply your foundation

Using a good quality brush, apply a thin coat of primer to the entire exterior surface of the bath. For roll-top baths, only paint up to the “lip” but not over it, and for baths without a lip, paint the outside to the edges. Be careful not to paint in the bathroom.

(Image credit: Farrow & Ball)

3. Apply your color

Allow your primer to dry for at least 4 hours. Then it’s time to apply your chosen paint color. ‘Apply a coat of top coat in your chosen color and finish. We recommend Modern Eggshell for this task,” says Patrick. Allow to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions and sand the bath lightly again with fine sandpaper. Apply a second coat and let it dry.’

Whether you paint your feet the same color is a matter of personal preference. Alternatively, you can paint them white to match the inside of your tub, or even go for a different shade entirely! This is your chance to get creative. As you saw in our simple guide above, painting your bathroom is so easy that you can change the color whenever you want.

(Image credit: Little Greene)

What color do you use for a bathtub?

Depending on what type of finish you want, we recommend an eggshell color. This will give you a soft, low shine that isn’t too shiny. If you prefer a shinier look, opt for a medium to high gloss color, like a satin or luster color.

Ruth Mottershead, Creative Director at Little Greene, offers this advice: “There are two types of bathtubs where we are often asked about the decoration of the exterior – cast iron and fiberglass. The application of paint is the same for both, but the primer and preparation are understandably slightly different.’

“When in doubt, use a small magnet to check if your tub is plastic or cast iron (the magnet sticks to cast iron),” she continues. “Prime and prime to create a permanent bond with exposed metal and compatible existing coatings, then finish with two coats of our Intelligent Eggshell or Intelligent Gloss paint.”

Can I paint my bathtub myself?

Yes absolutely! It’s super easy to paint your bathtub even if it’s already built into your bathroom. Just remember that it’s all in the preparation. It’s also worth investing in a really good quality brush to get the best possible finish.

Even if your tub is built-in rather than free-standing, you can still let off steam painting the front panel. Whether it’s a smooth plastic front, a wood paneled front or even a tiled surface, all of these can be painted to give your bathroom a new look and feel. There are many other bathroom panel ideas to give your bathroom a quick and easy update.

“Fiberglass bathroom panels are typically manufactured with a gelcoat finish. To ensure adequate adhesion, a special primer should be used prior to finishing with your color choice. Make sure the bathroom door is left open during all painting and drying stages to allow for ventilation and proper drying conditions,” says Ruth.

Will you be using color to accent your bathroom?

Buying and installing a new bathtub can prove to be a costly process. As such, a DIY approach to installing your own bathtub paneling can offer a simple and effective way to keep costs down — without the need to hire a professional. The type, size and position of your bathtub will determine the number of panels required, and you can be all set and dusted in as little as 30 minutes by following our step-by-step guide to installing a bathtub panel.

What is a bath panel and why should I install it myself?

A bathtub liner is available in a variety of sizes and styles and is primarily used with a straight bathtub to conceal unsightly plumbing and plumbing.

Bathtub paneling is essential in addition to splash resistance for the floor under the bathtub to give your bathroom an attractive overall look.

For best results, install bathtub panels that match or complement the surrounding bathroom decor, for example, walnut bathtub panels that match a walnut vanity unit. Panels can be attached to the side and end of the tub and are relatively easy to install.

Bath panel sizes

Different bathrooms require different panel sizes, the most common being 1500mm, 1600mm, 1700mm and 1800mm for front panels and 700mm, 750mm and 800mm for end panels. These sizes will fit most installations and 1700mm is the most popular size in the UK.

Bathtubs can usually be adjusted in height with the included bathtub feet, but if you are replacing a panel and cannot adjust the bathtub’s height due to tiling and plumbing, you need to carefully check the height of the bathtub panel, as every manufacturer puts them in easily different heights.

Most panels are supplied in one piece, i. H. with fixed height and not adjustable. Two-piece bathtub panels consist of a fixed-height panel and a separate plinth that is placed in front of or behind the main panel at the required height; This option is also ideal for sloping floors.

What is a bathtub panel made of?

Bathtub panels are available in two main materials including acrylic and MDF.

MDF bathroom panels are solid and will not bend like acrylic panels when properly fitted. When choosing an MDF bathtub panel, you should consider the thickness of the panel (usually between 5mm and 18mm). The thicker it is, the less likely it is to bend. Vinyl wrapped bathtub panels are wrapped with a plastic coating to ensure an even water repellent finish.

Acrylic bath panels are easy to cut and generally cost less than MDF.

Do I need to build a frame to attach a bathtub panel?

We recommend attaching your tub panel to a frame, ideally made of 1.5″-2″ sticks, to support the panel and strengthen the bath.

Different ways to make a bathtub panel yourself

How to build the frame and an accessible wooden bathtub panel, in either plain board, tongue and groove, shaker style or beaded boards for storage

When I make a bathtub panel I always make sure that it is accessible and can be removed later. I learned the hard (and wet) way in my own house by not doing this on my first DIY attempt!

So when the silicone seal around the rim of the tub broke and a lot of water leaked through the floor unnoticed, it ruined the ceiling in my study downstairs.

Not only was my ceiling ruined, but I had to ruin the tub trim and baseboards so I could get to the bottom of the tub and reinforce the frame that holds the tub up!

Once I had access I was able to support the tub rim more than I should have the first time. As a result, there was no more movement that would break the silicone seal again. Then, finally, reattach the tub paneling for easier removal in the future.

TOP TIP! If you’re applying a thick bead of silicone around the rim of your tub, fill the tub up with water first so it weighs down slightly. This prevents the silicone seal from breaking when filling later.

I’ve now remodeled my bathtub panel so that the entire side can be detached for easy access (I don’t know many slim plumbers…), but you can make bathtub panels to incorporate smaller accessible panels that either velcro in place and held in place from the back (a good stealth way to covertly attach a tiled bathtub panel) or with white screw caps or chrome mirror screws, whichever suits the style of your bathtub panel and bathroom best.

First things first: decide on the finish/style to make your DIY bathroom paneling first, as this will dictate how you build the frame

To know how far you can set your studwork back under the bathtub, you must first decide what type of tub panel you prefer and what panel materials and gauges you will use for the panel.

Choose a design that complements other areas of your home.

Modern, contemporary bathroom panels tend to be plain and simple, and are often tiled.

Making a shaker style bathtub panel can look pretty good too. You can do that, add a tongue-and-groove effect bathtub panel, or simply miter some beads onto a flat sheet of plywood or waterproof MDF to create faux panels, for example, to match the doors in your house.

Making a shaker style bathtub panel

I don’t have a picture of a shaker style bathtub I made, but you can see on this small door that I glued and pinned some wood how quick and easy it is to give something a shaker style:

All I do when making a shaker style bathtub is use moisture resistant MDF or marine plywood to create a flat panel first and then simply add trim strips of the same material by gluing them to the panel and nail.

Start with one across the bottom and the top, one on each side, then divide into equal sections if needed.

On a corner, a vertical miter edge probably wouldn’t hold up very long, so cut the strips so one extends past the edge of the bathtub panel the same thickness as the strip around the corner.

And the stripe around the corner needs to be thinner so that they are the same size overall considering the overlapping one.

Finally, I always place such a fugue away from the main line of sight (e.g. not visible from the direction you would go into the bathroom from) so the fugue is less likely or less likely to be seen.

Tongue and groove effect bath plate

There are two ways to achieve a tongue and groove bathtub paneling effect, depending on whether you want the tongue and groove bathtub paneling to be painted or stained/lacquered or not. If you’re going to paint it, the simplest material to use is moisture-resistant MDF boards with the tongue and groove effect already built in. Being a sheet material it’s really easy to install and being MDF it’s really easy to paint.

After painting, no one should be able to tell that they are not individual tongue and groove slats, and there is not the problem of warping or twisting as can occur with pine tongue and groove boards. If you can’t get MDF with T&G grooves, you can route them in using a round router, straight edge, and clamps.

If you do not want to paint and want to stain or varnish the panel, you must use individual T&G battens. A little more fiddly, sometimes I put two slats down to attach all the slats, or another option is to glue them all onto a thin sheet of plywood so you have a thick board to fit. In this case, less stud work is required under the tub because the panel is so strong.

The red arrows below show how I attach/nail tongue and groove boards. Align the groove edge with the wall and pin this edge. From there to the other end, only fix at an angle through the tongue side, where it is covered by the next plank and is not visible.

Apart from the two outermost boards, no nails should be visible at all.

For my own I used 9mm marine grade plywood and edged it like the rest of the room. To match the rest of my house, which is full of crown molding, I then added fancy beads to it to create a paneled look that complemented other areas of the house.

Whatever you want, you need to know the thickness of the materials you will be covering it with before you start building the stud frame to which it will be attached.

If you’re making a bathtub panel out of MDF, make sure you use moisture-resistant MDF, not the normal stuff that blisters and doesn’t last very long.

It’s worth applying at least one coat of paint to all sides and edges before you even apply it, and then more coats of paint on the surface that’s more exposed to moisture (use exterior paints ideally). Then seal all edges with silicone once the paint has dried.

How to make a tile bathtub panel

If your tub panel will be tiled, you will need to know the thickness of the tiles + adhesive and the thickness of the plywood covering the frame.

Leave 3-4 mm above the edge of the tub when setting it back so that a bead of silicone can be applied again at the end.

To access the tiled tub trim you can have a section held in place by strong magnets, velcro or pierce the whole thing and use screws and caps as before.

Build a solid and sturdy wooden frame to support the tub rim and attach the tub panels to it

If you’re making a bathtub panel that attaches between two walls, your bathtub could look something like the one below, or it could fit snugly against the wall without the shelf.

You can see the markings on the floor, I always have the plumbers (the slim ones I mentioned earlier) mark the position of their pipes so nobody drills or screws them when they work in the bathroom.

Good practice when picking up floors – you’ll understand if you’ve ever screwed through a pipe!

First trace the tub edge down and draw the outline of the tub on the floor. Do this by using a spirit level to plumb a line down from the tub rim at several points, then connecting the points with a straight edge.

Then, from that line, measure the thickness of the material that will be used to clad the bathtub (aquaboard, plywood, moisture-resistant MDF, tongue and groove, etc.) and remember to double the material if you’re using a bathtub cladding Make shaker style.

Add another 2-3mm so it isn’t flush as it will be easier to apply a silicone bead to the bottom of the tub if it is stepped back ever so slightly. Mark this point at each end of the bath, in the middle, and along the walls as well.

Below is how to build the wood stud frame for an L shaped bathtub panel. If a bathtub is not installed between two walls, a bathtub end panel may also be required.

Now, when outfitting bathrooms, I always screw and grab a wooden slat to the walls with a few supports all the way to the floor for the bathtub rim to sit on. Plastic bathtubs in particular can ‘bend’ and fall down a bit when filled with water and a person, hence the reason to fill them with water and pump silicone all around to tape it to the wall before tiling. So it is definitely tight and after tiling, a small bead can be attached again to seal between the tub and the tile.

To support the edge of the tub and to fix the paneling, I build a wooden frame as above. I use either 25 x 50 or 50 x 50mm planed lumber and miter the corner to get a good attachment.

In general it may be easier to build the frame flat on the ground like a ladder and then assemble it in place. In other cases (e.g. if the ground isn’t level) it might be easier to build/assemble it on the spot.

When screwing anything to the floor in a bathroom, never use screws that penetrate further than the thickness of the floor unless you are 100% sure there are no pipes/cables underneath, same goes for the walls.

In my bathroom The baseboard runs continuously around the room and over the tub panel.

This presents a problem when made detachable as the baseboards must be either scored or scored at the ends.

So if I’m making a bathtub panel in a bathroom with baseboards, instead of first laying the paneling and then edging it, I’ll match the baseboard first, but with a strip of plywood (or whatever sheet material I’m using). behind it, which ends about 6 mm below the top edge of the skirting board.

This creates a small groove for the bathtub panel to sit in, and then it just needs to be screwed onto the top of the frame that will be built alongside the bathtub. Once painted I put a silicone gasket all the way around to prevent water from getting through.

If you access a tub panel this way, later all you have to do is run a sharp knife around the edge to break the silicone seal and then unscrew the top from the frame.

I realize it looks like a silly design that catches water, but if you do a good job and it fits snugly, it’s honestly fine. And the silicone seal ensures that nothing gets in the way.

Final phase of making a bathtub panel: decoration

The final part of making a bathtub panel is applying the beads or shaker style finish.

For the beading I cut a piece of wood about 50-75mm long as a spacer and use it on the wall, edging and down from the tub edge to mark an even border all the way around the panel.

Then I work out the center of the panel and mark half the size of this packer/border on either side. Then I simply cut the beads inside those lines to create two bead panels within them with an equal distance between them.

What’s next?

Once you are done making the bathtub paneling, you can proceed to installing the bathroom vanity cabinets

Or click here for help packing visible piping

Use the comments section below to add your own tips for making a bathtub panel

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