Himalayan Battery Not Charging? The 68 Latest Answer

Your motorcycle stator fulfills an important function on your motorcycle. The electrical system on motorcycles is generally the least understood system because people are afraid to tamper with the wiring. A strong stator is important for many reasons. However, how can you tell when things are going bad?

What are the symptoms of a bad motorcycle stator? The most obvious symptoms of a bad motorcycle stator are no spark, weak spark, or intermittent spark (aka misfire). Difficult starting and a poorly running engine can also be indications that your stator needs to be overhauled or replaced.

In this article, we will look at these symptoms and their causes. We also show you how to repair your own stator and what you have to pay when buying a new stator. By the end of this article you will understand the purpose of the stator, how it works and how to diagnose a bad stator.

Bad Motorcycle Stator Symptoms

Your motorcycle’s stator is very similar to a car alternator, except the stator is just one part of an alternator. The task of the stator is to generate electricity to operate various electronics on the bike.

The stator also fulfills the extremely important role of generating electricity for the spark plugs in the engine. Without a stator, your motorcycle will not get any spark at all as your battery is unable to deliver the appropriate levels of power to produce a spark.

As a result, if your stator goes bad, your motorcycle will run very poorly. At some point your stator can prevent your motorcycle from starting at all.

The stator can be an extremely difficult component to diagnose as there are a few potential symptoms, all of which are also symptoms of other component failures. It can be very easy to get on with other things when you start to have problems and completely overlook the stator.

There are so many different signs that point to a defective stator. In general, you will find that your engine is not running as it should. This could be noticeable as soon as the motorcycle is started. If you notice that your motorcycle is very difficult to start and that the starting difficulty seems to vary with the temperature of the motorcycle, you can be fairly certain that there is a problem with the stator.

A defective stator behaves differently when it is cold than when it is hot. This is a great way to determine if your stator is failing.

If your motorcycle is running poorly, it can indicate many possible problems, a bad stator being one of those possibilities. Since the stator provides the spark for the spark plug, you could get a very weak spark if it’s not working properly. This can be constant or completely irregular and sporadic.

Driving around can occasionally misfire. This will continue to worsen until eventually you will have no spark and will not even be able to start the bike. This can make the bike very difficult to diagnose, as many of these symptoms appear when things like the battery, spark plug, or ignition are having problems.

Generally, our first thought is to assume these other components have failed and we don’t consider the stator. This makes it very difficult to find the actual problem.

There may also be other issues that arise under other circumstances. For example, you may find that your motorcycle runs fine at lower RPMs, but when you get to the higher RPMs it starts to run very rough. This is due to the high speed coil going bad in the stator. The opposite can also happen with the low speed spool. These are signs that your stator is failing.

You may also find that your bike backfires. This could be due to a bad stator. These are the things that can tell you to either repair or replace your stator.

What causes a stator to fail?

Stators can fail for a number of reasons. The first and most commonly overlooked cause is time. Everything wears out over time. The longer you have a motorcycle, the longer it is exposed to vibration, heat, cold, wind, water, etc. All of these things wear out on all components of your motorcycle.

Your stator wears out over time. Given proper care it should last a very long time, but ultimately time is no friend to any component on your bike.

The other major cause of your stator failure is current overload. This can happen if you run too many accessories at the same time. For example, when you use your headlights, heated grips, GPS, stereo, and other accessories, you need a lot more energy to keep everything going.

Your stator needs to keep up with all of these accessories, but also still need to power your spark plugs. The stator starts to work much harder and therefore produces much more power. Over time this can wear out your stator. You can actually burn the stator and rectifier by overloading it. In this case, you have no choice but to either repair or replace the device.

Can you fix a stator?

Let’s say your stator just burned itself. Can you repair the stator yourself? Or is it best to drive to a workshop? You can actually fix the stator. It requires some attention to detail, but you can do the whole thing yourself.

Complete replacement of stators can be very expensive. A new stator can cost around $300-$400, some for vintage or hard-to-find bikes can go as high as $1,500. That’s just for the part itself. Repairing the stator can save you quite a bit of money.

The first thing you need to do is remove the stator from your motorcycle, this is usually located under the left engine cover. After removing the stator you can do a visual inspection which will usually show very quickly what the problem is. If you burn the stator you will generally short out your three separate phase windings.

Once you have the stator out you can start removing the epoxy from the windings. This allows you to actually get to the windings and remove them. This part can be very tricky as the epoxy is quite difficult to remove. Once you’ve removed the epoxy you can remove all of the windings from the stator.

Now you can prepare the stator for rewinding. You should file down any sharp edges on the stator. Now you can have the stator rewound. You need to buy a new AWG wire. Locate the appropriate size of enameled copper wire in your particular motorcycle. Winding can be very difficult as you have to wind three separate phases. You’ll probably want to consult a chart to make sure you’re wrapping everything correctly.

Once you have all three pins wired correctly you can cover the whole thing with insulating paint. As a result, the stator lasts longer. After you have coated the stator you should cure it in an oven at 300 degrees for about 30 minutes. Lastly, all you have to do is solder the connecting wires to the three phases and put them back on the bike. It should run like new again.

This is how you keep your stator as long as possible

Your stator will last you quite a long time if you take care of it properly. Many people have stators that last over 200,000 miles, your stator can last just as long. The main reason why stators get burned is because of the high amperage. If you need higher amps it will shorten the life of your stator.

There are certain functions on your motorcycle that your stator needs to perform such as: B. Your spark plugs. This current is absolute and cannot be reduced. Your accessories are the optional components that increase the amperage required. By running a lot of accessories you force the stator to work a lot harder to power everything. Keeping the amperage low is the best way to make a stator last as long as possible.

Vibrations also do a lot of damage to your stator. Vibrations can start to abrade the varnish that acts as an insulator on your stator windings. When this comes loose you can start shorting from the winding to the stator case.

Shorts also ruin your stator pretty quickly. However, this is much more difficult to prevent. You can do your best to avoid big bumps, but your engine will still experience vibration.

Concerned that your regulator rectifier could be on the Fritz? If you suspect this vital component of your bike is on the last leg, read on to learn the most common fault symptoms and some practical solutions to fix the problem.

Don’t miss these helpful tips and simple step-by-step guide to checking your regulator’s rectifier voltage.

Understanding How the Regulator Rectifier Works If you’re wondering if the regulator rectifier is bad, it’s important to understand how this component of your bike works in the first place. Modern bicycles have batteries with electrical charging circuits. A control rectifier is a standard component of this circuit. The name of this part is appropriate as a regulator rectifier regulates and rectifies the voltage. The stator coil of your bike’s alternator generates AC voltage. Generally, motorcycles have a three component system with three wires connecting the stator to the regulator rectifier. Some bikes have single phase construction because it costs less to manufacture, in which case it would be two wires instead of three. In any case, the regulator rectifier converts the AC voltage to DC voltage and then regulates the DC voltage to ensure that the voltage does not go above about 14.5 volts. At this point, the DC voltage is routed to the bike’s battery.

Common Causes of Failure There are a number of possible reasons why your motorcycle’s regulator rectifier could fail. A faulty regulator rectifier can not only affect the motorcycle’s stats, it can also affect the motorcycle’s performance on the road. One of the main causes of failure is heat. Different motorcycle manufacturers install the regulator rectifier in different locations on the bike, with some placing the part near the radiator or other sections of the bike that impede airflow. Depending on where your bike’s regulator rectifier is located, the part can overheat. If overheated, the component can quickly fail. Other common causes of regulator rectifier failure involve the battery. In order to have voltage, the battery must have a reliable ground connection. If the connection is bad and the voltage is faulty, it can cause the regulator’s rectifier to run hotter than usual. Things like poor grounding, a loose or weak battery, and a worn battery connection can all cause the regulator rectifier to fail.

Important Signs to Look Out For So how do you tell if the regulator rectifier is bad? In general, there are two main ways in which the regulator’s rectifier can fail. First, the diode can burn out and drain the battery. You will have no trouble diagnosing the faulty regulator rectifier if the battery is the culprit. You’ll immediately notice signs like poor starts, fluctuating odometer readings and dimmed headlights. If you notice these signs, it’s always a good idea to check the voltage with a voltmeter rather than relying on these symptoms alone to diagnose the problem. If the voltage drops below about 13 volts, the bike will begin to drain the battery. When this happens it is only a matter of time before the engine stops completely. The other way your regulator rectifier could fail is if the shunt regulator burns out. If the regulator rectifier cannot moderate the voltage levels, the battery will overcharge. You can also use a voltmeter to diagnose an overcharge. If you get readings above 17 volts, it generally means that the regulator’s rectifier cannot convert the excess power. All that extra voltage could make the headlights get brighter and brighter before blowing out. It is important to mention that you should always check the condition of the components in your bike’s electrical circuitry. The step is integral in determining whether the regulator’s rectifier is experiencing a fault. Problems with any of the circuit parts can lead to a failure. If your regulator rectifier has already died, take a look at the internal connections. Sometimes a manufacturing defect can also lead to failure.

A charging system consists of three parts: the battery, the voltage regulator and an alternator. The task of a charging system is to maintain the charge level of the battery and to operate the electrical ancillary consumers in the vehicle.

If any of these three parts fail, it can lead to a failure of the charging system. The most common symptom of a charging system failure is dim or flickering headlights.

Other symptoms can include a dead battery, difficulty starting the engine, and strange electrical noises under the hood.

Failure of the battery charging system means your car cannot generate or hold a charge. This can have several causes, but the most common cause is a bad alternator. Other causes could be a loose serpentine belt or a problem with your car’s electrical system.

What is a car battery charging system?

It is a system that generates, stores and delivers electrical energy to the car. It helps start the engine, power lights and accessories when the engine is running, and charge the battery when needed.

What are the components of a charging system?

The charging system consists of three main components:

An alternator is a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. It is typically used in automobiles and other vehicles to power the lights and other electronic devices.

Alternators work by using a spinning belt to turn a set of magnets in a coil of wire. This creates an electrical current that is then sent to the battery.

When the engine is switched off, the alternator stops working and the battery takes over as the sole source of energy for the electrical system. It is located at the front of the engine and is usually driven by a belt from the crankshaft.

A voltage regulator is a device that regulates the voltage in an electrical system. It is typically used in automobiles and other vehicles to keep voltage at a constant level.

Voltage regulators work by monitoring the output of the alternator and adjusting the current flow to the battery as needed. The voltage regulator is responsible for maintaining a safe and constant charge rate for the battery.

If the voltage regulator fails, it can cause the battery to overcharge or undercharge, which can damage it. The voltage regulator is usually located in the vehicle’s engine compartment.

The battery is a device that stores electrical energy. It is typically used in automobiles and other vehicles to power the lights and other electronic devices.

Batteries work by converting chemical energy into electrical energy. When the engine is switched off, the battery takes over as the sole source of energy for the electrical system.

If the battery fails, it can cause the vehicle’s electrical system to fail. The battery is usually located in the vehicle’s engine compartment.

How do you troubleshoot a charging system error?

There are a few things you can do to fix the charging system error.

1. Check the battery

The first thing to do is check the battery. If the battery is old or damaged, this may be the cause of the charging system failure. You can choose to replace the battery with a new one.

2. Check the charging system

After checking the battery, you need to check the charging system for damage. The charging system includes the alternator, voltage regulator and battery.

To check the charging system, you need to use a voltmeter. First disconnect the negative battery cable. Then connect the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative terminal of the voltage regulator.

If the reading is more than 14 volts, the charging system is working properly. If not, there may be a problem with the alternator or voltage regulator.

3. Check the fuses

If the alternator is not the problem, the next thing to check is the fuses. The charging system has several fuses that can blow and cause problems.

To check the fuses, simply locate the fuse box and remove each fuse individually. If one of them burned out, you need to replace it.

How do I repair my alternator?

1. Check the drive belt

The first thing you want to check is the drive belt. The alternator is driven by a pulley connected to the engine by a belt. If the belt is loose or damaged, the alternator may fail.

To check the belt, simply open the hood and visually inspect. Look for cracks or damage. If you see any, you need to replace the belt.

2. Clean the connections

If the belt is fine, the next thing to check is the clamps. The alternator has two connections, one positive and one negative.

Over time, these connectors can corrode. This can cause problems with the electrical connection between the alternator and the battery.

To clean the terminals, simply disconnect them from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion. Once they’re clean, you can reconnect them and see if that fixes the problem.

3. Replace alternator

If the clamps are clean and the belt is slack, your next step should be to replace the alternator. Alternators don’t last forever and will eventually need to be replaced.

What are Bad Alternator Symptoms?

One of the most common symptoms of a bad alternator is dim or flickering headlights. When your alternator goes bad, it cannot charge the battery properly, causing the lights to dim or flicker.

Other symptoms can include a dead battery, difficulty starting the engine, and strange electrical noises under the hood.

How do I test an alternator?

There are a few ways you can test an alternator to see if it’s working properly. One way is to use a voltmeter to check the voltage across the battery while the engine is running. The voltage should be around 13.

Another way to test the alternator is to use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the alternator field coil. This should be over 15. If this is not the case, the alternator is most likely defective and needs to be replaced.

What causes a car battery not to charge?

There are a few things that can cause a car battery not to charge.

One of the most common causes is a loose or damaged connection between the battery and alternator. Another common cause is a bad alternator.

A faulty voltage regulator can also cause a car battery not to charge. The voltage regulator regulates the voltage sent from the alternator to the battery. If it doesn’t work properly, it can prevent the battery from being charged.

What is the cost of fixing a charging system fault?

The cost to fix a charging system failure can range from $500 to $1000 including labor depending on the vehicle model.

However, if the problem is a bad alternator or voltage regulator, it will be more expensive to repair. The cost of replacing an alternator can range from $200 to $400. The cost of replacing a voltage regulator can range from $100 to $300.

How can I prevent charging system failures?

There are a few things you can do to prevent charging system failures.

One thing you can do is keep an eye on the health of your battery and make sure it is always properly charged. Another thing you can do is keep track of the condition of your alternator and make sure it is always in good condition.

You can also have your charging system checked regularly by a mechanic to ensure that it is working properly.

Conclusion

A failure of the charging system means that your vehicle cannot generate or maintain battery power. This can be caused by several factors including alternator issues, battery issues, or electrical system issues.

Changing the battery at home is child’s play and with the right tools and a bit of skill you can easily change the alternator. However, if there is an underlying electrical problem, it is best to leave this problem to an experienced auto electrician.

You can also check out these other VehicleFreak articles:

Can you leave a trickle charger on all the time?

How to read a battery charger ammeter

Battery light is on but alternator is charging – why is this happening?

This is how you can tell if your dead motorcycle battery is still okay

You turn the key, the light comes on, but when you push the starter – an abrupt click – silence. Your battery is too weak to power your motorcycle. You hire a five star motorcycle towing company to deliver your bike to your home. What now? Can a dead motorcycle battery be recharged?! It sure can! But that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s still usable. This is how you can determine whether your dead motorcycle battery is still OK.

Ladies and gentlemen, in this video I show you how to tell if a motorcycle battery needs replacing or if you can just charge it. Topping it up would save you a few bucks, but you might just end up stranded again. But the replacement could cost you money you don’t have to spend. So how do you know what to do?

resources

Why do motorcycle batteries die?

There are many reasons why your motorcycle battery could be dead, such as: B. if you neglect them for a few weeks or simply forget the ignition and leave the lights on.

Sometimes you might even think that your battery is the problem, but you might have a completely different problem, e.g. B. a wiring problem or a problem with your charging system. Replacing your battery will not solve anything, and you could be wasting your money and time for nothing.

Look, we all make mistakes, but we don’t always have to pay for them. I don’t want you to spend your money unless you will benefit from it, so let’s get into that.

Can a dead motorcycle battery be recharged?

Yes. An empty motorcycle battery, especially a high-quality motorcycle battery, can be recharged several times. However, your motorcycle battery will not last forever and over-discharging will end its life prematurely.

If you choose to charge your motorcycle battery, you don’t want to find that after a ride the battery can no longer hold a charge and end up dead. At the same time, you don’t want to replace a battery that might still be good. That’s why you should follow these tips.

How to charge a dead motorcycle battery

Charging a dead motorcycle battery is easy provided you already have a brand specific motorcycle trickle charger. You plug the battery trickle charger into the wall and connect the other end to clamps. One clamp is red, one black. The black clamp goes to the negative pole of your battery, the red clamp goes to the positive pole of your battery.

You should make sure your battery is fully charged before testing it. If you try to test a motorcycle battery that has not yet been charged, it will fail the test even if the battery only needs to be charged.

How long does it take to charge a dead motorcycle battery?

It can take several hours to fully charge a dead motorcycle battery. There is no standard time. How long it takes to charge the battery depends on the capacity of the battery and the charging speed of the battery charger.

It is important to know that you should never use a car battery charger to charge a dead motorcycle battery. A standard car battery charger can charge at 5A, while a standard motorcycle battery should never be charged at more than 1.2A. Using a car battery charger on a motorcycle battery could burn out your motorcycle’s battery.

How to test a dead motorcycle battery – step by step video

Before we start, if you like motorcycle how-to videos, please visit YouMotorcycle on YouTube and subscribe! The new YouTube channel is dedicated to helping motorcyclists, and your likes and subscriptions will help us help more riders.

Click the small unmute button in the lower left corner to unmute the video.

Method 1: How to test a motorcycle battery with a multimeter

The first method we will use to test a motorcycle battery is with a multimeter. A multimeter measures voltage, current and resistance.

You can use a multimeter to troubleshoot anything from motorcycle wiring problems to electrical problems at home or in the garage. The best part is you can have one delivered to your door for $15.

If you are using the multimeter testing approach, you should wait half an hour after riding or charging your bike to ensure your battery is at a normal, stable level.

Now you need access to your battery. Depending on your motorcycle, this may mean removing seats and fairings. However, if you have a battery pigtail installed for easy battery charging, you can use the positive and negative terminals of your pigtail instead of having to take your bike apart.

Next, take your multimeter and set it to read 20 volts DC. Put the red probe on the positive pole and the black probe on the negative pole. You can use the clamps on your battery directly or at the end of the battery charger connector cable if you have one.

Check the screen and you will get a battery indicator. The voltage indicates how charged the battery is. What you want is that the number should ideally be above 12.6 volts.

Any surges should be enough to start most bikes, but if you only see surges your battery is getting dangerously low. If your battery still won’t get back to volts after charging, it’s time to replace it.

While you’re here, you should also test your motorcycle’s charging system. If you can, start the bike, if you turn the key before you hit the starter, the voltage will drop because the bike is drawing power from the battery for lights, fuel pump, etc.

When you push the starter, the voltage increases again. When you rev ​​your bike, it goes even higher. That means your charging system is working.

If your voltage doesn’t rise again, it could be a sign of larger problems that you should investigate before replacing your battery.

Method 2: How to test a motorcycle battery with a car battery tester

So that’s one way to test your battery, but what if you don’t have a multimeter? Or maybe all those numbers going up and down just aren’t your thing.

Relax, there’s an even easier way to test your battery yourself. And it’s as easy as pressing a button.

This time we will use a car battery tester. This thing has only one purpose in life. You can’t use it to find a short, you can’t use it for home electrical work, and it’s a bit more expensive, but it does the job well.

You simply take the tester’s positive and negative clamps and attach them to the positive and negative battery posts. Then just press the button. This button puts a load on the battery, and depending on how the battery responds to the load test, the device will indicate whether your battery is still good or not.

My battery failed, now what?

If your battery has failed or is very low, you should replace it as soon as possible. A low or bad battery could kill you mid-ride or leave you stranded when you return to your motorcycle after parking. Depending on how far you are from home, towing a motorcycle can cost more than just replacing a battery, so changing the battery pays for itself quickly.

Remember that the initial acid filling and initial charging of your battery are two of the most important parts of the life of your new motorcycle battery. You’ll want to make sure you’re doing this right to get maximum performance and maximum longevity from your battery. If you’re not sure what to do, don’t worry, here’s how to fill a new motorcycle battery with acid, seal it, and charge it for the first time.

Side note: what about car batteries?

You can test car batteries in much the same way. Check out this step-by-step guide and video on how to test a car battery.

recap

Charging a dead motorcycle battery overnight can save you a lot of money in the end. However, sometimes a battery reaches the end of its life cycle and if you don’t replace it, you’re just going to have a lot of headaches. To make matters worse, your battery may not be the cause of your motorcycle problems, but rather a symptom.

Luckily, testing a motorcycle battery is cheap and easy. Testing a car battery is more or less the same process. Whether you’re spending $15 on a multimeter or $20 on a battery tester, you should always test your battery at the first sign of a motorcycle electrical problem.

That’s it for this article. Peace out, ride safe!

Adrian

Motorcycles have had some type of battery since the idea of ​​motorcycles came up. Over time, batteries have become more efficient in the way they power a motorcycle, but that doesn’t mean they’re flawless.

Battery problems are completely frustrating. It’s even more frustrating when you’re on the go and when you get home you find that the performance is dropping and/or the battery is dead.

Why does a motorcycle battery discharge while driving? There are several reasons why a motorcycle battery may discharge while riding including a bad battery terminal connection, corroded battery terminals, a bad stator, a bad rectifier/regulator, too many electrical accessories, a battery that is too old and if you have one that is done on newer bikes an automatic shutdown if the battery cable is loosened by vibration.

After dealing with every imaginable battery problem over the past few years, I was able to get a good idea of ​​exactly how motorcycle batteries work and why they would drain while riding. This article further explains why it happens, in addition to other helpful information if you find yourself in this situation.

Reasons why a battery discharges while driving

It’s never a good sign if your motorcycle is struggling to keep going while you’re out on the road. There could be several reasons for this, but the likely reason is the battery.

The function of the battery is simple, but it relies on other parts to function properly. The first reason why a motorcycle battery can discharge while riding could be a bad connection. The terminals on a battery are the two small metal rods sticking out at the top on either side.

When a motorcycle has a bad terminal connection, it means the battery cable either has a bad connection or is not connected at all. The battery should be charged via the stator while it is running, but if there is a bad connection your battery will not get much charge.

On the same lines, corroded terminals can also cause a battery to discharge while driving. Battery acid can build up at these terminals, meaning there is a barrier between them and the cable that connects to the stator. This poor connection results in little, if any, charging of the battery while driving.

If the terminals seem to have a good connection, the next (and most likely) reason your motorcycle battery is draining while riding is a bad stator. The stator on a motorcycle is basically an alternator, just in a simpler form.

The role of the stator is to charge the battery while the motorcycle is on. If a stator goes bad, it means the bike is only missing battery power, which will quickly drain it. Batteries weren’t designed to power the bike while you’re riding, but mainly to get it started. Check out my other article here to learn more about how a motorcycle stator works.

A motorcycle’s regulator/rectifier is part of the alternator system, but is usually separate from the stator. Batteries cannot store AC power, so the regulator/rectifier converts electricity into a type of electricity that the battery can store. If the regulator/rectifier is defective, this can cause the motorcycle battery to discharge while riding.

Failure of the regulator/rectifier to do its job may mean it is not converting the power into voltage that the bike can store, resulting in the battery not receiving any power at all.

Aftermarket modifications or additional electrical attachments can also cause a motorcycle battery to discharge. Such add-ons can include LED lights, phone chargers, etc. It is possible that the wiring was done incorrectly when installing these types of add-ons on a motorcycle.

If these are used while driving, they draw additional voltage from the battery, especially if the grounding is poor. Since these draw so much juice from the battery, the battery discharges while riding and may no longer start the motorcycle the next time you try to start it.

A battery that discharges while driving can also simply be the result of a bad battery. This is more likely when the battery is old or expired. A typical motorcycle battery should last up to 48 months or 4 years. But it’s not uncommon for them to quit before then. Take a look at your battery’s expiration date; If it’s around, it might be time to buy a new one.

The last few reasons why a battery will discharge while riding a motorcycle mainly apply to newer motorcycles. Some newer motorcycles will shut down if a battery cable vibrates loose. This is a defense mechanism designed to prevent the cable from hitting the ground and causing a spark. This usually results in a sudden shutdown of the motorcycle.

The role of the battery

The main job of the battery on a motorcycle is to get it started. Unless you have additional electrical add-ons, that’s basically all the battery does. Once the bike is turned on, the stator takes over and helps the bike run while also charging the voltage that the battery had to use to start the bike.

You may not notice your motorcycle battery draining while riding until you restart it for the next ride. But as we’ve already discussed, other underlying issues will manifest themselves by noticeably draining the battery while riding a motorcycle.

The role of the battery is simple, but if it is not working properly, the entire motorcycle may not be able to run. Understanding how the battery works and what’s involved can help you, the driver, know where to look if you’re having this problem.

How to tell if the battery is the problem

When your bike acts up, there are some conclusions most motorcyclists come to. And most of the time it’s the battery. There are a few symptoms you can look out for to determine if you are really dealing with the battery draining problem while riding a motorcycle.

The first and most obvious symptom is that over time your motorcycle loses power and becomes sluggish. The motorcycle may even die at some point. You’ll also notice that all the lights get dimmer in this scenario.

A dead/empty battery is also indicated by a clicking noise when trying to restart the bike. This clicking sound is coming from the bike trying to draw power from the battery but it is unsuccessful.

The last and one of the most obvious ways to tell if your motorcycle battery keeps draining while riding is if you can jump start it or charge it and it will work great afterwards. This does not necessarily mean that it is the actual battery. So be sure to go through the checklist discussed earlier to see what the real culprit is.

What to do if your battery dies while driving

One of the most annoying things a motorcycle can do to us riders is leave us stuck because the battery isn’t working. I’ve been there many times myself and had to get creative on how to get home.

If you’re struggling with a low battery while driving, especially if you’re far from home, there are a few things you can do. First check all the connections to the battery and make sure everything is secure.

You also have the option to jump start either from another motorcycle or from a car. You must be careful when jump starting a car as there is a risk of destroying the motorcycle battery. Connect the positive cable (red) to the positive pole of the motorcycle battery and the negative cable (black) to the metal frame of the bike. Then connect the positive cable to the positive pole of the car battery and then the negative cable to the negative pole.

Don’t turn on the car. You can try to start the motorcycle without starting the car because the battery is strong enough to give enough voltage to the motorcycle.

Finally you can try to push your motorcycle as you may not have the battery power to start it. To push a motorcycle, you need to get it rolling fast enough for the engine’s compression to start the combustion cycle. Put the motorcycle in second gear, turn on the ignition key, pull the clutch lever, coast at the right speed, and then release the clutch lever to start the engine. See my other article here to learn more about how to push a motorcycle.

This is a brief (but comprehensive) guide to testing the motorcycle charging system on any motorcycle – whether you buy it or it’s your own.

Electric “gremlins” are scary for most people – but they don’t have to be.

A charging system for a motorcycle is actually quite simple. Once you understand how the motorcycle charging system works and what can go wrong, it’s easy to diagnose.

And since glitches are not uncommon, knowing how to fix a charging system can mean the difference between getting home 200km or stranded in the middle of nowhere.

It can also mean avoiding buying a dud or reducing the asking price of a motorcycle by $500.

Are you obsessed with motorcycles? well i am That’s why I created this page – as an outlet. I love to learn and share what others might find useful. If you like what you’re reading here and are a bit obsessed like me, you might want to know when I’ll be posting more. (Check out the latest to get an idea of ​​what you’ll see.) Sign up

Testing motorcycle charging systems in a nutshell

In short, there are only five major electrical components (which regularly fail) in a motorcycle’s charging system.

These are the

Alternator (or stator coil) Regulator/rectifier Battery The wires between them Fuses and switches

If something isn’t working with your motorcycle’s charging system, one of those parts has failed. Figuring out which one failed is the important part.

When you ask about a motorcycle charging system on forums, people often say “dead battery” and give examples of when they bought a battery and it died in the store. I’m sure that happens and sometimes they might be right. But don’t buy a battery unless you’re sure it’s the culprit. If it’s dead, you better know what killed it. It’s better not to just “throw spaghetti at the wall”. It’s a waste of spaghetti.

Simple diagram of a motorcycle charging system

Luckily, the charging system is the same for almost all bikes. It really changes very little.

The main changes I’ve seen on modern bikes is that sometimes the stator coil isn’t driven directly by the engine but is in another unit (the alternator) that’s driven by a belt, just like in a car. I last saw this on BMW R1200* engines and also wrote a guide on changing the alternator belt here.

Symptoms of a bad motorcycle charging system

There are a number of key symptoms of a bad motorcycle charging system. All of this can mean that something in your charging system is faulty.

Motorcycle does not start. This is the big, obvious one. If it spins super slow or you just hear a “click” sound, then something is broken in the bike’s charging system. Stuttering while driving. When the voltage is low, it is difficult to keep the motorcycle running. Lights will flash and dim as you spin. This shouldn’t happen – your bike should keep the lights steady (unless it’s a really old bike). Battery warning light comes on. Oh, so you have a fancy late motorcycle, don’t you? Actually, battery lights are pretty common – my 14 year old 2006 BMW R1200S has one (which lit up).

Battery warning light on a BMW motorcycle

There are other symptoms as well, but these are the main ones.

What can go wrong with the charging system?

If your motorcycle won’t charge (or shuts down) it basically means that one of the above components has failed!

Failures of a component in the motorcycle’s charging system occur in several, fairly common ways:

Regulator/rectifier overheats and dies. The reg/rec lives a long and difficult life. While the bike is on, it draws power from the alternator, trims it to the correct voltage and converts it to DC so your battery can be charged. What happens to the overcurrent? It just turns it into heat. Because of this, the Reg/Rec has a huge heatsink (it gets hot) and sits in the airflow. All of that gets to be too much after a while, and after about 50,000 km (or about 1,000 hours of use) it’s pretty reasonable that they die.

The reg/rec lives a long and difficult life. While the bike is on, it draws power from the alternator, trims it to the correct voltage and converts it to DC so your battery can be charged. What happens to the overcurrent? It just turns it into heat. Because of this, the Reg/Rec has a huge heatsink (it gets hot) and sits in the airflow. All of that gets to be too much after a while, and after about 50,000 km (or about 1,000 hours of use) it’s pretty reasonable that they die. battery is getting old. Batteries have a shelf life. If they get old or aren’t cared for properly, they die. Modern batteries last longer.

Batteries have a shelf life. If they get old or aren’t cared for properly, they die. Modern batteries last longer. Battery is being fried by other components. If your Reg/Rec is not properly regulating voltage, it may be sending too much voltage to the bike’s battery. Motorcycle batteries operate between about 12 and 14.5 volts – anything above that puts a lot of strain on them. A fried Reg/Rec means you might see voltages in excess of 20V at high RPM, which is bad news for the battery.

If your Reg/Rec is not properly regulating voltage, it may be sending too much voltage to the bike’s battery. Motorcycle batteries operate between about 12 and 14.5 volts – anything above that puts a lot of strain on them. A fried Reg/Rec means you may be seeing voltages that are bad news for the battery. Stator coil has died. Or if you have a separate alternator, your alternator may have died – or the belt snapped (j’accuse, BMW!)

Or if you have a separate alternator, your alternator may have died — or the belt may have snapped (j’accuse, BMW!) Loose wires. A lot of times people don’t realize that they can’t just use a screwdriver to tighten the battery terminal wires. You must use a wrench and tighten to a minimum of 5Nm (i.e. hand tight).

Equipment you need to test a motorcycle charging system

You need some equipment. People often shy away from the multimeter at first.

A multimeter. Any household will do it. But I like this high-quality (but affordable) Fluke automotive multimeter. This is a combination of a voltmeter, an ohmmeter and a continuity tester (all the things you need).

Any household will do it. But I like this high-quality (but affordable) Fluke automotive multimeter. This is a combination of a voltmeter, an ohmmeter and a continuity tester (all the things you need). A charger. Your motorcycle must be fully charged before you can perform the tests. You can use a Battery Tender (the 0.75A “Junior” will charge a motorcycle battery overnight) and also use it to service your battery.

Other than that, you just need regular tools like the ones in your toolkit. You need to get to the battery and unplug a few things. I would just say you need it

Needle-nosed pliers to loosen a few staples

a few undo clips allen wrenches for undoing (and redoing) screws and such

Loosen (and replace) screws and such. Work gloves (optional) because my hands always get dirty doing this stuff!

Before performing any tests on your motorcycle charging system, you must use the trickle charger that you purchased from Amazon or eBay. Leave it on overnight.

You must charge your battery before running other tests, or your results may not be meaningful.

In order to charge your battery, you usually have to remove the seat and panels, if present. Sometimes you have to remove the tank – I pray it’s not you!

Mental note: I’m so thankful that I have a bike that has a fairing (to keep me warm) but that it’s a bikini fairing so I can access everything.

The bikini fairing on my R1200S that prompted this notice.

Test 1: Battery voltage a with the motorcycle switched off and on

Basic automotive multimeter – just measures the basics.

If you’re using a charger, the light will indicate that the battery is charged (hopefully).

Once your battery is charged, you can now start testing your motorcycle charging system! Test the battery voltage with your multimeter.

If your voltage is at or above 12.4V then you are fine.

If your voltage is below 12.4V after charging, you need a new battery.

Before you buy a new battery – if your motorcycle was behaving normally and you suddenly need a new battery… you must ask yourself: “Why is my battery dead?”

If it’s just old – like the battery has literally never been changed or is more than 5 years old – then you might feel comfortable changing the battery.

But if a bad regulator/rectifier broke it, then you’ll just fry a new one, wasting time and money. Test Reg/Rec – we’ll do that next.

Now run a similar series of tests – with the motorcycle on.

Disconnect your multimeter for a second (so that voltage spikes don’t destroy it).

Now switch on the motorcycle, let it warm up a little and check the voltage at the battery again.

When idle, the voltage should be around 12-13V.

At 3,000 rpm the voltage should not be more than 15 V.

Is the idle voltage below 12V? Then something isn’t delivering enough power. You may have a short somewhere in the system that is drawing too much current, you may have a bad alternator/stator coil, or your reg/rec may have failed completely.

Is the voltage more than 15 V at 3,000 rpm? If it is, your regulator/rectifier may be partially fried. You can run more tests (that’s a story for another day). But you can either pick it up or take a potshot and buy one and replace it. Worst case scenario, you’ll need that spare later (they all die eventually).

To better understand what part of your motorcycle charging system is not working, look at whether your alternator/stator coil is working or whether your reg/rec is working as intended.

Test 2: Generator/Stator coil

The stator coil was removed from my old Ducati Monster 900. I was really sure this was the problem before going to this length!

You need to find out if your alternator/stator coil is producing enough current. You can usually determine this by testing the output voltage.

The stator coil is a coil (or series of coils) that sits around the rotor. The rotor is just a magnet connected to the motorcycle’s crankshaft.

When the engine of the motorcycle turns – i. H. when it’s on (or when you push it!) – the rotor magnets spin. The magnets rotate in the stator coils. The changing magnetic field caused by the spinning magnets induces current in the coils. It works exactly the opposite of an electric motor.

To test your stator coil you need to test that it produces enough voltage. If so, it’s usually a sign that it can carry the load. (Not necessarily, but almost always.)

First find the output of your stator coil. Usually one plug comes from the whole range.

Don’t know where the exit of the stator coil is? In longitudinally mounted engines such as V-twins, the clutch is usually on one side of the engine and the stator is on the other side. You know the clutch side because that’s where the clutch cable and actuator go. You know the stator side because it’s the other side! You may find the connector on this page.

With transverse engines, like my BMW or many straight-four motorcycles, it’s not as obvious. There it is easier to find the regulator/rectifier (often under the seat) and check the voltage there.

Once you have found the exit of the stator coil, perform the following tests:

Tests on the alternator/stator coil with the engine off:

Check the resistance between each of the pins (if there are only two then the resistance between the two). Use your multimeter on a low resistance scale. The resistance should be low (about 0.2-0.5 ohms). If it is an open circuit: This coil has opened. If it’s a short: Bad news, both coils are shorted to ground.

(if there are only two, then the resistance between the two). Use your multimeter on a low resistance scale. The resistance should be low (about 0.2-0.5 ohms). If it is an open circuit: This coil has opened. If it’s a short: Bad news, both coils are shorted to ground. Check the resistance between the pins and ground (chassis or negative battery terminal). This should be an open circuit. If it is something else, then there is a malfunction.

If you still haven’t found any problems, you can do some tests with the engine running. You charged the battery, so it should start.

Tests on the alternator/stator coil with the engine running:

Switch your multimeter to AC mode.

You can now test the voltage between the terminals of the stator coil at 3,000 rpm. Depending on your bike, you should get a reading between 20 and 50 volts.

What voltage you get doesn’t matter (unless it’s less than 15 – at 3,000rpm you should definitely have enough voltage to charge the battery, ie more than 15). More importantly, a) all terminals show a voltage reading and b) they are all fairly similar (if you have a polyphase alternator).

Some older alternators are only two phase and only have two output wires. With them, that’s the only voltage you measure.

Most modern alternators have three phases and three output wires. So you need to measure A-B, B-C and A-C. In this case, your voltages must be similar.

Test 3: regulator/rectifier

Two regulator/rectifier units from two motorcycles

The final test is your regulator/rectifier.

These often fail on older bikes because they live a very tough life. For millions of engine revolutions, they must receive a large voltage, convert it to direct current, then cut off the excess and vent it to heat.

This is what regulators/rectifiers do (they’re actually two things, but they’re usually in one unit because they’re easy to build that way – they’re made of high-current diodes).

The rectifier converts AC voltage into DC voltage. This is the same as any power adapter in your house, as it is for your phone charger. The AC power that comes out of the wall outlet needs to be converted to DC power to charge your devices. AC can only be used for things that only provide heat or light (where the direction of the current doesn’t matter), such as ovens, toasters, kettles and lamps.

A “full wave” rectifier circuit. A positive voltage will be output regardless of whether the AC swing goes up or down.

The regulator lowers the voltage from high levels to levels where it won’t cook your battery. The alternator generates massive voltages – higher the higher the engine revs. The regulator cuts off the excess, giving your battery only what it needs. Sometimes this cuts off over 70% of the available voltage!

The sad thing is that it just discards that excess energy as heat. That’s why regulators are frying. You will be overwhelmed.

When a regulator burns out, you either get a) no voltage (dead battery) or b) too much voltage (dead battery, which also means dead battery).

So if you have a dead battery and replace it without checking your Reg/Rec you can just fry the battery again.

How to test the regulator/rectifier: Now that you understand how diodes work, you can put your multimeter in “diode” mode to test the polarity of your Reg/Rec module’s leads. The configuration of the diodes and the orientation of the jumper will depend on your specific motorcycle, so you will need to consult your motorcycle manual’s wiring diagram.

Ducati Motorcycle Handbook for 2000-01 Monster 900 i.e. – Regulator/Rectifier Section

If that was gibberish, then here’s a good testing algorithm: If your stator coil produced the correct voltages in the above tests, but the voltages on your battery seem off (e.g. over 15V when cranking), then yours is Reg/Rec module is dead.

If your reg/rec module is dead you can buy the same part – or if you feel like it you can buy a similar part from any other bike, cut the wires and splice it in.

Motorcycle batteries are the unsung heroes of motorcycling. Every time we ride our motorcycles, the last part of our pre-ride exercise is always the same – insert the key and press the starter button.

It’s our trusty batteries that give our engines the rumble of life. No battery power means no ride. It’s that simple for a modern motorcycle. So how can we avoid this horrible surprise when we stop driving? Test your battery as part of your routine preventative maintenance plan.

Battery testing safety and basics

Batteries contain acid and can produce very flammable hydrogen gas. Before attempting any testing or servicing your motorcycle battery, follow these safety precautions:

Familiarize yourself with your motorcycle – consult your owner’s or service manual first

Keep open flames or sources of sparks away from the battery – this includes smoking

Work in a well-ventilated area

wear eye protection

Wear rubber or latex gloves

Inspect the battery for leaks, cracks, or corroded terminals

Testing the battery

A little preparation is required when testing a battery. You will need the following materials:

Hand tools for removing saddle or side covers to gain access to the battery

safety goggles

gloves

A digital voltmeter with a DC scale capable of reading tenths of a volt

Start with a static test

Before the load test, you should perform a static test to confirm that the battery is fully charged. Use a charger or just take a ride to let the charging system do its job. You must let the battery rest for at least an hour before testing. Perform this test with the motorcycle off.

To see how well your battery is performing, follow these steps:

Set voltmeter to DC scale (range 0-24 or equivalent) Connect positive meter lead to positive battery post Connect negative meter lead to negative battery post Read and record voltage

A fully charged battery should read approximately 12.6 VDC. If it reads at or below 12 VDC, charge the battery. Let the battery rest and test again. A battery that is fully charged, rested and tested between 12 and 12.6 VDC will start the motorcycle but will not hold a full charge.

How to load the test

The load test measures the voltage at the battery terminal when the motorcycle is on and current is being drawn from the battery. The moment of maximum load on a battery is at the start.

Follow these steps when using a battery load tester:

Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and the motorcycle is in a stable position. Place the voltmeter safely where you can read it while starting the motorcycle. Connect the meter positive cable to the battery positive terminal. Connect the negative cable of the meter to the negative battery terminal. Read the voltage as you start the engine and record the results

The voltage drops at startup before the charging system kicks in. If the voltage falls below 9.5 VDC, your battery has a very low charge capacity. Replace it now before it lets you down.

By following these simple steps, you can save yourself a lot of headaches. Make it part of your checklist for the new riding season.

Until next time, drive safe!

Motorcycles have had some type of battery since the idea of ​​motorcycles came up. Over time, batteries have become more efficient in the way they power a motorcycle, but that doesn’t mean they’re flawless.

Battery problems are completely frustrating. It’s even more frustrating when you’re on the go and when you get home you find that the performance is dropping and/or the battery is dead.

Why does a motorcycle battery discharge while driving? There are several reasons why a motorcycle battery may discharge while riding including a bad battery terminal connection, corroded battery terminals, a bad stator, a bad rectifier/regulator, too many electrical accessories, a battery that is too old and if you have one that is done on newer bikes an automatic shutdown if the battery cable is loosened by vibration.

After dealing with every imaginable battery problem over the past few years, I was able to get a good idea of ​​exactly how motorcycle batteries work and why they would drain while riding. This article further explains why it happens, in addition to other helpful information if you find yourself in this situation.

Reasons why a battery discharges while driving

It’s never a good sign if your motorcycle is struggling to keep going while you’re out on the road. There could be several reasons for this, but the likely reason is the battery.

The function of the battery is simple, but it relies on other parts to function properly. The first reason why a motorcycle battery can discharge while riding could be a bad connection. The terminals on a battery are the two small metal rods sticking out at the top on either side.

When a motorcycle has a bad terminal connection, it means the battery cable either has a bad connection or is not connected at all. The battery should be charged via the stator while it is running, but if there is a bad connection your battery will not get much charge.

On the same lines, corroded terminals can also cause a battery to discharge while driving. Battery acid can build up at these terminals, meaning there is a barrier between them and the cable that connects to the stator. This poor connection results in little, if any, charging of the battery while driving.

If the terminals seem to have a good connection, the next (and most likely) reason your motorcycle battery is draining while riding is a bad stator. The stator on a motorcycle is basically an alternator, just in a simpler form.

The role of the stator is to charge the battery while the motorcycle is on. If a stator goes bad, it means the bike is only missing battery power, which will quickly drain it. Batteries weren’t designed to power the bike while you’re riding, but mainly to get it started. Check out my other article here to learn more about how a motorcycle stator works.

A motorcycle’s regulator/rectifier is part of the alternator system, but is usually separate from the stator. Batteries cannot store AC power, so the regulator/rectifier converts electricity into a type of electricity that the battery can store. If the regulator/rectifier is defective, this can cause the motorcycle battery to discharge while riding.

Failure of the regulator/rectifier to do its job may mean it is not converting the power into voltage that the bike can store, resulting in the battery not receiving any power at all.

Aftermarket modifications or additional electrical attachments can also cause a motorcycle battery to discharge. Such add-ons can include LED lights, phone chargers, etc. It is possible that the wiring was done incorrectly when installing these types of add-ons on a motorcycle.

If these are used while driving, they draw additional voltage from the battery, especially if the grounding is poor. Since these draw so much juice from the battery, the battery discharges while riding and may no longer start the motorcycle the next time you try to start it.

A battery that discharges while driving can also simply be the result of a bad battery. This is more likely when the battery is old or expired. A typical motorcycle battery should last up to 48 months or 4 years. But it’s not uncommon for them to quit before then. Take a look at your battery’s expiration date; If it’s around, it might be time to buy a new one.

The last few reasons why a battery will discharge while riding a motorcycle mainly apply to newer motorcycles. Some newer motorcycles will shut down if a battery cable vibrates loose. This is a defense mechanism designed to prevent the cable from hitting the ground and causing a spark. This usually results in a sudden shutdown of the motorcycle.

The role of the battery

The main job of the battery on a motorcycle is to get it started. Unless you have additional electrical add-ons, that’s basically all the battery does. Once the bike is turned on, the stator takes over and helps the bike run while also charging the voltage that the battery had to use to start the bike.

You may not notice your motorcycle battery draining while riding until you restart it for the next ride. But as we’ve already discussed, other underlying issues will manifest themselves by noticeably draining the battery while riding a motorcycle.

The role of the battery is simple, but if it is not working properly, the entire motorcycle may not be able to run. Understanding how the battery works and what’s involved can help you, the driver, know where to look if you’re having this problem.

How to tell if the battery is the problem

When your bike acts up, there are some conclusions most motorcyclists come to. And most of the time it’s the battery. There are a few symptoms you can look out for to determine if you are really dealing with the battery draining problem while riding a motorcycle.

The first and most obvious symptom is that over time your motorcycle loses power and becomes sluggish. The motorcycle may even die at some point. You’ll also notice that all the lights get dimmer in this scenario.

A dead/empty battery is also indicated by a clicking noise when trying to restart the bike. This clicking sound is coming from the bike trying to draw power from the battery but it is unsuccessful.

The last and one of the most obvious ways to tell if your motorcycle battery keeps draining while riding is if you can jump start it or charge it and it will work great afterwards. This does not necessarily mean that it is the actual battery. So be sure to go through the checklist discussed earlier to see what the real culprit is.

What to do if your battery dies while driving

One of the most annoying things a motorcycle can do to us riders is leave us stuck because the battery isn’t working. I’ve been there many times myself and had to get creative on how to get home.

If you’re struggling with a low battery while driving, especially if you’re far from home, there are a few things you can do. First check all the connections to the battery and make sure everything is secure.

You also have the option to jump start either from another motorcycle or from a car. You must be careful when jump starting a car as there is a risk of destroying the motorcycle battery. Connect the positive cable (red) to the positive pole of the motorcycle battery and the negative cable (black) to the metal frame of the bike. Then connect the positive cable to the positive pole of the car battery and then the negative cable to the negative pole.

Don’t turn on the car. You can try to start the motorcycle without starting the car because the battery is strong enough to give enough voltage to the motorcycle.

Finally you can try to push your motorcycle as you may not have the battery power to start it. To push a motorcycle, you need to get it rolling fast enough for the engine’s compression to start the combustion cycle. Put the motorcycle in second gear, turn on the ignition key, pull the clutch lever, coast at the right speed, and then release the clutch lever to start the engine. See my other article here to learn more about how to push a motorcycle.

This is how you can tell if your dead motorcycle battery is still okay

You turn the key, the light comes on, but when you push the starter – an abrupt click – silence. Your battery is too weak to power your motorcycle. You hire a five star motorcycle towing company to deliver your bike to your home. What now? Can a dead motorcycle battery be recharged?! It sure can! But that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s still usable. This is how you can determine whether your dead motorcycle battery is still OK.

Ladies and gentlemen, in this video I show you how to tell if a motorcycle battery needs replacing or if you can just charge it. Topping it up would save you a few bucks, but you might just end up stranded again. But the replacement could cost you money you don’t have to spend. So how do you know what to do?

resources

Why do motorcycle batteries die?

There are many reasons why your motorcycle battery could be dead, such as: B. if you neglect them for a few weeks or simply forget the ignition and leave the lights on.

Sometimes you might even think that your battery is the problem, but you might have a completely different problem, e.g. B. a wiring problem or a problem with your charging system. Replacing your battery will not solve anything, and you could be wasting your money and time for nothing.

Look, we all make mistakes, but we don’t always have to pay for them. I don’t want you to spend your money unless you will benefit from it, so let’s get into that.

Can a dead motorcycle battery be recharged?

Yes. An empty motorcycle battery, especially a high-quality motorcycle battery, can be recharged several times. However, your motorcycle battery will not last forever and over-discharging will end its life prematurely.

If you choose to charge your motorcycle battery, you don’t want to find that after a ride the battery can no longer hold a charge and end up dead. At the same time, you don’t want to replace a battery that might still be good. That’s why you should follow these tips.

How to charge a dead motorcycle battery

Charging a dead motorcycle battery is easy provided you already have a brand specific motorcycle trickle charger. You plug the battery trickle charger into the wall and connect the other end to clamps. One clamp is red, one black. The black clamp goes to the negative pole of your battery, the red clamp goes to the positive pole of your battery.

You should make sure your battery is fully charged before testing it. If you try to test a motorcycle battery that has not yet been charged, it will fail the test even if the battery only needs to be charged.

How long does it take to charge a dead motorcycle battery?

It can take several hours to fully charge a dead motorcycle battery. There is no standard time. How long it takes to charge the battery depends on the capacity of the battery and the charging speed of the battery charger.

It is important to know that you should never use a car battery charger to charge a dead motorcycle battery. A standard car battery charger can charge at 5A, while a standard motorcycle battery should never be charged at more than 1.2A. Using a car battery charger on a motorcycle battery could burn out your motorcycle’s battery.

How to test a dead motorcycle battery – step by step video

Before we start, if you like motorcycle how-to videos, please visit YouMotorcycle on YouTube and subscribe! The new YouTube channel is dedicated to helping motorcyclists, and your likes and subscriptions will help us help more riders.

Click the small unmute button in the lower left corner to unmute the video.

Method 1: How to test a motorcycle battery with a multimeter

The first method we will use to test a motorcycle battery is with a multimeter. A multimeter measures voltage, current and resistance.

You can use a multimeter to troubleshoot anything from motorcycle wiring problems to electrical problems at home or in the garage. The best part is you can have one delivered to your door for $15.

If you are using the multimeter testing approach, you should wait half an hour after riding or charging your bike to ensure your battery is at a normal, stable level.

Now you need access to your battery. Depending on your motorcycle, this may mean removing seats and fairings. However, if you have a battery pigtail installed for easy battery charging, you can use the positive and negative terminals of your pigtail instead of having to take your bike apart.

Next, take your multimeter and set it to read 20 volts DC. Put the red probe on the positive pole and the black probe on the negative pole. You can use the clamps on your battery directly or at the end of the battery charger connector cable if you have one.

Check the screen and you will get a battery indicator. The voltage indicates how charged the battery is. What you want is that the number should ideally be above 12.6 volts.

Any surges should be enough to start most bikes, but if you only see surges your battery is getting dangerously low. If your battery still won’t get back to volts after charging, it’s time to replace it.

While you’re here, you should also test your motorcycle’s charging system. If you can, start the bike, if you turn the key before you hit the starter, the voltage will drop because the bike is drawing power from the battery for lights, fuel pump, etc.

When you push the starter, the voltage increases again. When you rev ​​your bike, it goes even higher. That means your charging system is working.

If your voltage doesn’t rise again, it could be a sign of larger problems that you should investigate before replacing your battery.

Method 2: How to test a motorcycle battery with a car battery tester

So that’s one way to test your battery, but what if you don’t have a multimeter? Or maybe all those numbers going up and down just aren’t your thing.

Relax, there’s an even easier way to test your battery yourself. And it’s as easy as pressing a button.

This time we will use a car battery tester. This thing has only one purpose in life. You can’t use it to find a short, you can’t use it for home electrical work, and it’s a bit more expensive, but it does the job well.

You simply take the tester’s positive and negative clamps and attach them to the positive and negative battery posts. Then just press the button. This button puts a load on the battery, and depending on how the battery responds to the load test, the device will indicate whether your battery is still good or not.

My battery failed, now what?

If your battery has failed or is very low, you should replace it as soon as possible. A low or bad battery could kill you mid-ride or leave you stranded when you return to your motorcycle after parking. Depending on how far you are from home, towing a motorcycle can cost more than just replacing a battery, so changing the battery pays for itself quickly.

Remember that the initial acid filling and initial charging of your battery are two of the most important parts of the life of your new motorcycle battery. You’ll want to make sure you’re doing this right to get maximum performance and maximum longevity from your battery. If you’re not sure what to do, don’t worry, here’s how to fill a new motorcycle battery with acid, seal it, and charge it for the first time.

Side note: what about car batteries?

You can test car batteries in much the same way. Check out this step-by-step guide and video on how to test a car battery.

recap

Charging a dead motorcycle battery overnight can save you a lot of money in the end. However, sometimes a battery reaches the end of its life cycle and if you don’t replace it, you’re just going to have a lot of headaches. To make matters worse, your battery may not be the cause of your motorcycle problems, but rather a symptom.

Luckily, testing a motorcycle battery is cheap and easy. Testing a car battery is more or less the same process. Whether you’re spending $15 on a multimeter or $20 on a battery tester, you should always test your battery at the first sign of a motorcycle electrical problem.

That’s it for this article. Peace out, ride safe!

Adrian