Home Air Conditioner Performance Test? All Answers

Many of our Naperville customers have asked us when they can test their air conditioners. You keep asking, “Why shouldn’t we winter test air conditioners?” Learn more about the dangers of winter testing your air conditioner, what happens when you run your air conditioner in the winter, and when you should test your air conditioner. Then, if you have questions, contact your Chicagoland home inspection service, the BrickKicker. We’re here to help!

Why test your air conditioner in warm weather?

Most air conditioning manufacturers and HVAC professionals agree that an outdoor condensing unit should not be operated in cold weather for any reason, at any time. This is because the oil used to lubricate the compressor does not lubricate well when cold. The lubricant in a home air conditioner is not unlike the lubricant in your car. There are different grades, such as summer weight and winter weight. The summer oil used in the standard air conditioner is a heavier grade of oil and only works well in warmer weather conditions. In cold weather, the oil is too thick for the air conditioner to operate safely.

What temperature is too cold for air conditioning?

When it comes to testing the air conditioner in winter, you may be wondering what temperature is too cold for air conditioners? Most HVAC technicians and home inspectors will refuse to run central air conditioning unless daytime temperatures are well above 65 degrees for at least 24 hours. So when should you test your AC unit? Only wait between May and September to test and use your air conditioner.

Are there exceptions?

Now that you know why you shouldn’t test air conditioners in the winter, you might be wondering if there are any exceptions to these guidelines. The only exception to waiting for warmer weather to test your AC unit would be for crankcase or sump heated units. These have a heater strip around the compressor and oil reservoir that help keep it warm and moving, but it’s still best to be serviced. There are even some more sophisticated units with low ambient temperature sensors that prevent operation in cold weather.

What happens if you run your air conditioner in winter?

As we mentioned earlier, if you run your air conditioner in the winter, your oil can get way too thick as its molecules condense in the cold. This makes it difficult for the oil to circulate and your compressor to overheat. This could cause a perfectly working air conditioner to fail, so it’s not worth the risk. A much more energy efficient way to cool down your Aurora home in the winter is to simply open the window and let some of the cold air into the home.

The BrickKicker is always there for you

If you don’t know if you have a crankcase heater, or if you don’t know if your unit has a lighter grade of oil, it’s best not to test your air conditioner in the winter. Please do not operate your central air conditioner until the temperature is above 65 degrees for at least 24 hours. The risks are too high. Operating a unit at this temperature could severely damage a properly functioning unit. Now that you know what happens when you run your air conditioner in the winter and when you should test your air conditioner, don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions or to arrange a home inspection. We are always ready to help! If you have more home care questions, check out our blog for dozens more helpful information on issues to watch out for, home improvement tips, and home inspection maintenance intervals!

Is it time to replace your air conditioner? Find out the tonnage of your current system so you can start shopping for a replacement.

How to find the AC tonnage

The easiest place to look is on the AC unit itself. Go outside to the condenser unit and look for a data plate on the side. Find the model number. Within this sequence of letters and numbers you should find an even two-digit number. Housing unit options range from 18 to 60. Divide the number by 12 (which equals 12,000 Btu/hr or one ton of cooling capacity) to get your air conditioner’s tonnage. You can also view our table below with the numbers and the corresponding tonnage.

18 = 1.5 tons

24 = 2 tons

30 = 2.5 tons

36 = 3 tons

42 = 3.5 tons

48 = 4 tons

60 = 5 tons

What is AC tonnage?

Heating and air conditioning capacities are measured in British Thermal Units (Btu) per hour. One Btu is equal to the heat generated by a single birthday candle. It is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree.

The word “tonnage” is used to describe the cooling capacity of an air conditioner. A ton of refrigeration is the heat transfer rate required to freeze 2,000 pounds – or one ton – of water in 24 hours. This equates to 12,000 Btu/hr.

Why is AC tonnage important?

In some cases, bigger is better. This certainly applies to meal sizes, lottery wins and discounts. But when it comes to air conditioning, sometimes less is more. You should never just buy the largest possible AC unit otherwise you could end up with an oversized system. Here are the problems associated with oversized air conditioners:

Short cycles lead to increased wear on the device, leading to more repairs and premature replacements.

Short cycling prevents dehydration, giving you a cool but clammy interior. You may find that you turn the temperature down to counteract this, increasing your power consumption. Link opens in a new tab in the process.

included. Larger air conditioners cost more to buy and run, an unnecessary expense when your home is suitable for a smaller system.

Of course, an undersized device is also problematic, as it cannot keep up on the hottest summer days.

The importance of sizing a new air conditioner

You’ve found your AC unit tonnage – that’s great, but that’s not all. Knowing the tonnage of your existing air conditioner does not guarantee that your new one should be the same size. After all:

You may have made improvements since installing your air conditioner to make your home tighter and more efficient.

You could have expanded your house or finished the basement to increase the total usable area.

It’s possible that the unit you have now wasn’t sized correctly at all.

While determining the tonnage of your air conditioner is a useful starting point, you should still have your replacement air conditioner professionally sized before making the purchase. When you do this, you maximize convenience and efficiency.

Call Aire Serv® for help sizing your air conditioner

Let Aire Serv® guide you through the AC buying process. We’ll help you choose the right size and choose a quality brand with a cost-effective efficiency rating. We then professionally install the device to maximize performance. Get the most out of your upcoming investment – call Aire Serv today to get started.

Air conditioning repairs can be costly, so arranging regular maintenance and adjustments with experienced AC contractors is important to enjoy the best AC performance. It’s also important to learn about the most common air conditioner problems so you can take preventative steps to avoid major repairs.

Here are 10 common AC problems and their possible solutions:

1. The air conditioner does not turn on

You need to check your thermostat’s batteries if your air conditioner isn’t working or turning on. Replace the batteries when they are empty. If the batteries are working, check the thermostat settings to see if cooling mode is on with your desired temperature settings. If your thermostat is on but your air conditioner still won’t turn on, check the circuit breaker. If the circuit breaker trips, your air conditioner will not turn on. Reset the circuit breaker by turning the switch off and on again.

2. Air conditioning does not blow cold air

Your air conditioner won’t blow cold air if a dirty air filter is blocking your unit’s airflow. A dirty air filter can further freeze the condenser unit and reduce the cooling capacity of your air conditioner. Changing your air filter monthly will help your air conditioner blow cold air.

3. Freezing of the air conditioner outdoor unit Your air conditioner can freeze up due to the following reasons: Insufficient air flow

Low outside temperature

Low coolant level

Problems with the blower motor

Stuck Contractor

4. AC Refrigerant Leak If the refrigerant in your air conditioner starts to leak, the temperature will change and the unit will not work accurately. Refrigerant leaks can lead to: Poor efficiency

High power consumption

coil freezing

Damaged compressor

Uneven cooling Regularly check your air conditioner for refrigerant leaks.

5. Air conditioner makes noise An air conditioner can make different noises depending on the nature of the problem. There are several reasons why your air conditioner makes different noises: A refrigerant leak can make a hissing noise.

If you hear clicking noises when your air conditioner turns on and off, it could be a relay problem.

A roaring, rattling, or banging noise indicates a problem with a fan or motor assembly.

The compressor or fan motor makes a screeching noise.

Faulty electrical components create a buzzing noise.

6. Frozen evaporator coil

The evaporator coil freezes when your air conditioner is not getting enough air it needs to operate. A frozen evaporator coil can cause your air conditioner to freeze and stop working. Clogged ventilation slots and ducts, dirty filters or a defective fan can lead to insufficient airflow in the system. A clean air filter is important to maximize airflow and indoor air quality.

7. Electrical control failure

Turning your air conditioner on and off frequently can wear out the fan controller and compressor. The condenser fan motor, compressor and blower motor make an electrical connection to start the unit. A connection problem can prevent the motor and compressor from turning on. You should check the electrical connections to determine the problem.

8. Air Conditioner Leaks Water leaking from your air conditioner on a hot or humid day, especially when the unit is running, is considered normal. It is also normal if the water leaks outside when the temperature is 60 degrees or less in cool weather, as the device may freeze and leak water when it melts. Other reasons for water leaking from your air conditioner are: Dirty air filters

Improper installation

Blocked drain pipe

Low coolant level

Condensate pan broken

9. Drainage problem

The drain line can also become clogged with dust, algae, and dirt. If the water doesn’t drain properly, mold, fungus and mildew can develop. In addition, gases and bad smells can enter your home. To prevent this from happening, make sure your drain line is regularly maintained, cleaned, and inspected. Air conditioners that are not mounted level may not drain properly.

10. Sensor problem

The air conditioner contains a thermostat sensor located near the evaporator coil. The thermostat measures the air temperature in the evaporator coil and adjusts the cooling to the room conditions. If the sensor is forced out of position, the air conditioner may turn on and off haphazardly or run constantly. The sensor should be placed close to the evaporator coil without touching each other. Adjust the sensor by bending the wire that holds it in place.

Contact us today to have your air conditioning problems solved immediately by our experienced HVAC contractors.

CONTACT OUR SPECIALISTS

White Mechanical, Inc.

Founded in 2002 in Laguna Hills, California, White Mechanical, Inc. is one of the most trusted and licensed (HVAC) service providers, proudly serving Orange County and the surrounding communities. Our management team has over 28 years of experience in various aspects of HVAC technology. All of our HVAC technicians are professionally trained and certified to provide excellent residential HVAC services as well as commercial HVAC services to our customers. We provide professional HVAC services including air conditioning installation, maintenance, repair and more at very affordable prices.

Whether it’s looking for a new air conditioner…or experiencing a problem with their current cooling system…most homeowners inevitably ask themselves, “How long will air conditioners last?” And while most major HVAC manufacturers like Carrier spend significant time testing and improving their air conditioners for long-term reliability, the answer can be complicated.

It would be great if we could give you a definitive answer like 25 years, but realistically air conditioner life expectancy will vary widely for a number of reasons. From the quality of the unit and the work done by the installer, to your climate and comfort preferences, to the maintenance or care of the system, there are a whole host of variables that can either help extend the life of your system or make it short . And if a major problem arises, the decision to repair or replace the air conditioner by replacing key components can increase years of comfort…or shorten its lifespan if you decide to replace it with brand new units.

All of these factors and more can play a role in either increasing or decreasing the life expectancy of your air conditioner. Although every unit is different and every homeowner has a different understanding of when their central air conditioner is broken beyond repair, it’s fair to say that with proper maintenance and care you can expect a good 15 to 20 years of cooling from a new high efficiency air conditioner .

Factors affecting air conditioner service life

Any discussion of how long AC units last should include the question: When is their official end of life? Like your family car, HVAC systems require some TLC — regular maintenance and minor repairs and parts replacements. A homeowner might think it’s time for a new one the first time an appliance stops working and is out of warranty. Another might consider performing a number of repairs, even at great expense, to keep an existing system running. Therefore, the question of repair or replacement plays a role in determining the lifespan of the air conditioner.

In addition, the following factors play a role in the service life of air conditioning systems:

Installation quality and correct sizing

Personal comfort preferences, thermostat settings and system wear

Climate problems such as high humidity

Air quality problems such as salty sea air or other corrosive substances in the air

routine maintenance

usage rate

A better question might be, “How long does air conditioning last in your part of the country?” An air conditioner that is used above average will naturally wear out more than an air conditioner that is used moderately. For example, take two identical air conditioners and install them in two different areas of the country. An air conditioning system in a northern climate with moderately warm summers is likely to accumulate fewer operating hours and fewer start/stop cycles than a unit installed in a warmer and wetter climate. Personal preferences can also make a difference. If a family keeps their thermostat set at 70⁰ F all summer, that air conditioner will likely run a lot more often than the family across the street who keeps their thermostat set at 78⁰ F. Take any of these examples over 15 years with similar maintenance schedules, and that difference in usage is magnified.

maintenance level

Like any other appliance, your air conditioner can last longer with a little care. For example, when was the last time a licensed HVAC technician came out for an air conditioning system service? Have you regularly checked or replaced the system air filter? Are you keeping the outdoor unit free of leaves, mulch, dirt or other debris? Your answers to these questions can give you an indication of how well you are maintaining your air conditioner.

As you would expect, regular maintenance is recommended to prolong the energy efficiency and lifespan of your cooling system. Most homeowners can inspect and clean or replace an air filter. But an HVAC pro will dig deeper with regular tuning. You can clean and inspect components such as the compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, fan and motor assemblies, and steam traps. They can also make adjustments and minor repairs that improve performance and can potentially help prevent larger problems and higher repair costs down the road.

exposure to the elements

Because the condensing unit of an HVAC system is outdoors, it is exposed to the elements year-round. And depending on your climate and the air quality in your area, there really can be a beating out there. For example, if you live near the coast, salty sea air can put a lot of strain on the condenser coil in the outdoor unit. And while your air conditioner is designed to withstand the elements, it’s no secret that the time it is left exposed and the severity of the conditions can affect the life of the unit.

To protect and prolong the life of your AC outdoor unit, have the coil cleaned regularly to prevent dirt and potentially corrosive deposits from building up. Physically remove leaves, pine needles, mulch, trash, or other items that may collect around the unit and trap unwanted moisture inside. If you live in a coastal area, some manufacturers, like Carrier, offer units specifically designed to better withstand the rigors of salty, corrosive air.

Some homeowners purchase an air conditioner cover to protect it during the winter months when not in use. While it may seem like a good idea, it’s a risky proposition. Plastic covers can trap moisture, mold, and mildew inside, and can do even more damage by promoting rust and corrosion. If you choose to cover your outdoor unit, be sure to choose a cover made of a breathable material that won’t trap moisture, mold, and mildew inside. Or just cover the top of the device to allow air to flow through the sides.

Buying a new HVAC system can feel like a daunting task. After all, how does the average person know what makes a good system? One factor you can look at is the SEER rating of the unit. In this post, we cover the basics of what a SEER rating is, what makes a good rating, and what to look for when shopping. Read on to find out more.

What is a SEER assessment?

Simply put, a SEER rating is a measure of how efficiently your heating and cooling system is performing. It stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. However, it is also sometimes referred to as a seasonal energy efficiency rating.

However you phrase it, a SEER rating is the ratio of an HVAC unit’s cooling capacity over an entire cooling season divided by the amount of energy it uses in watt-hours. A system’s cooling performance factor is determined by using a consistent indoor temperature versus the energy required to maintain it at a variety of outdoor temperatures. These temperatures range from 60 degrees to over 100 degrees.

What is a good SEER rating?

In general, the higher the SEER rating, the better the efficiency of the device. Today, new units must be rated at least 13, and most are rated between 13 and 21, although some models can go even higher. Older and lower models, on the other hand, may have a lower rating. For reference, most HVAC units for contractors have a SEER rating of 8 or 9.

Note, however, that the rating is a measure of the maximum possible efficiency of the HVAC unit. It may not always work at this level. For comparison: SEER ratings work in a similar way to a car’s gas mileage. Just because a car goes up to 35 miles per gallon on the freeway doesn’t mean it will always perform at that level. In city traffic, your MPG is bound to be much lower.

Minimum SEER ratings by region

To ensure the comfort and safety of citizens, the United States Department of Energy (DOE) has established minimum energy efficiency standards for a variety of home appliances, including HVAC systems. As far as they are concerned, these standards take the form of a minimum SEER rating. However, these ratings are not one-size-fits-all. Because weather patterns differ across the country, the DOE varied the minimum rating by region.

They divide the country into three separate regions: Southwest, Southeast and North. The regions are divided as follows:

Southwest: Arizona, California, Nevada and New Mexico

Arizona, California, Nevada, and New Mexico Southeast: Alabama, Arkansas, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Mississippi, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia, District of Columbia, and the US Territories

Alabama, Arkansas, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Mississippi, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia, the District of Columbia, and the U.S. Northern Territories: The Rest of the United states states

The minimum SEER rating requirements for each region are:

Southwest: 14

14 Southeast: 14

14 North: 13

The final result

When you buy a new HVAC unit, you’ll find that there are a number of SEER ratings available. Consider the following factors as you focus on which device will ultimately work best in your home:

Make sure the device meets the minimum requirements: The minimum SEER rating for your region is the absolute lowest rating that companies are allowed to sell you, even if you charge a lower one. When shopping, think of the minimum of your region. This will help you when purchasing a climate-friendly system.

The minimum SEER rating for your region is the absolute lowest rating that companies are allowed to sell you, even if you ask them for a lower one. When shopping, think of the minimum of your region. This will help you when purchasing a climate-friendly system. Remember, your system doesn’t always perform up to its SEER rating: like miles per gallon in a car, the SEER rating measures the unit’s maximum possible efficiency. However, keep in mind that your system can only achieve these standards under near-ideal conditions. Be sure to choose an energy efficient system that you are confident will keep you comfortable at all times.

Do you have anymore questions? Talk to an expert

Need more help finding the right SEER rating? Call an HVAC professional to help you assess your home’s needs and find the right unit for your home.

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, or a REALTOR® trying to market your offerings as green, the Energy Efficiency Rating (EER) is an important part of your home energy audit. But what exactly is an EER? In short, it’s a way of determining how efficient your home is

HVAC system

is working. The higher your EER, the more efficient the system, which means you will spend less on running costs and maintain a constant and comfortable temperature in your home all year round.

Whether you are a homeowner who wants to make your home green

Here’s a closer look at an EER and what it means for you:

How do you calculate your Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER)?

A device’s energy efficiency ratio is the ratio of cooling energy to the amount of energy (wattage) required to run your device. Cooling energy is always measured in British Thermal Units (BTU) and represents the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit. For air conditioners, this means how many BTUs the unit can remove from the surrounding air and thus cool a room.

So if you look at an HVAC unit that has 10,000 BTUs of cooling energy and requires 1,200 watts of power to operate, the unit has an EER of 8.3:

10,000 BTUs ÷ 1,200W = 8.3 EER

You can find the EER of any air conditioner as long as you know its BTU and Watt ratings, which are usually listed by the manufacturer. In general, an EER of 12 or more is considered energy efficient, but when comparing two models, the model with the higher EER is more energy efficient, whether it’s over 12 or not.

It is important to note that the EER is calculated as a baseline using 95°F as the outdoor temperature, 80°F as the indoor temperature and 50 percent relative humidity. The actual operating efficiency of the device in everyday life depends on weather variations, your climate and the conditions in your home. A larger difference between indoor and outdoor temperature will result in lower operating efficiency.

What is a SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio)?

If you’ve heard of EER, you might have also seen the word SEER.

The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) is a similar ratio of cooling energy to electrical input energy, but only accounts for seasonal use and not year-round use. This is ideal for purchasing HVAC equipment in countries with strong seasonal variations, for example any climate where you only run air conditioning in the summer. Again, the higher rating is always more efficient, so aim as high as possible.

Most central HVAC units use SEER ratings, while portable air conditioners and window HVAC units use EER.

Why you should pay attention to EER and SEER

Most homeowners are used to buying HVAC units based on the BTU rating, but the problem is that the BTU rating alone does not determine energy efficiency or even operational efficiency. You can have a 12,000 BTU device operating at 1,400 watts, which is an EER of 8.5, or the same 12,000 BTUs operating at 800 watts, which is an EER of 15: nearly twice as efficient .

When you shop by Energy Efficiency Ratio instead of BTU, you’ll enjoy the benefits of an energy-efficient home cooling system. Some of these benefits include:

Low carbon footprint, reducing your household’s overall energy consumption

Reducing the overall energy consumption of your household. High performance that ensures your comfort during the hot summer months

Ensuring your comfort through the hot summer months Better quality, including quieter operation and more durable hardware

including quiet operation and durable hardware. Lower electricity bills as less overall electricity is used to run the HVAC system

as less power is required to run the HVAC system. Smart features like power saving modes and automatic maintenance reminders help save even more money

As you can see, there are many reasons why it is important to consider the EER instead of the BTU when purchasing a new piece of equipment.

How to Find Energy Efficient HVAC Systems

Not sure where to find high EER HVAC systems? It is helpful to purchase from the ENERGY STAR® catalog as each HVAC unit listed must meet specific EER and SEER standards. In fact, these air conditioners use about 10% less energy than standard models and can save you about $70 a year.

Look for the ENERGY STAR® logo on any device you wish to purchase. You can see each unit’s EER and SEER on the energy guide label, which provides an overview of the information you need to determine if a unit is energy efficient or not. This makes it easier for you to compare two models to find the right one for your home.

Should you pay more for a higher EER rating?

Price plays an important role in making a decision when purchasing a new HVAC unit. Many people want to spend as little as possible on a new device, which is totally understandable, but price isn’t the only factor to consider when making this decision. It’s important to understand how to determine if it’s worth spending a little more to buy a device with a higher EER rating.

For example, let’s say you’re deciding between two 10,000 BTU HVAC units. The first has a power consumption of 1,200 watts, which corresponds to an EER of 8.3, while the second has a power consumption of 1,000 watts, which corresponds to an EER of 10. The second has a higher EER, meaning it’s more energy efficient, but it also costs $100 more than the first. Is it worth spending another $100 to get a more energy efficient appliance for your home?

To answer this question, you need to know approximately how many hours per year you want to use the device and what kilowatt hour (kWh) tariff your energy supplier charges. Suppose you plan to only use the air conditioner during the day during the hot late spring and summer months. This means that you will use your device approximately 1200 hours per year:

5 months x 30 days per month x 8 hours per day = 1200.

You also notice that your electric utility charges $0.10 per kWh.

Now how can you use this information to determine if you should be paying more for the energy efficient device? The difference in power consumption between the two devices in question is 200 watts. That means the cheaper unit, which uses 1,200 watts, uses an extra kWh for every five hours of use. Your utility company charges $0.10 per kWh. So if you run the unit for 1200 hours, you will incur an additional $24.00 in electricity costs each year with the cheaper unit.

In just over four years, you will incur around 100 euros in additional costs just because you have opted for the cheaper device.

In this example, the price difference between the two devices would be evened out after four years of use of the more expensive device. Although you save money up front by going for the cheaper option, you end up spending more on a less efficient device in the long run. Keep this in mind when figuring out which unit to buy for your home.

How to maximize the energy efficiency of your HVAC unit

Understanding the energy efficiency of your HVAC system is the first step to making serious savings on your electricity bill and minimizing your carbon footprint. But choosing a unit with a high EER isn’t the only way to maximize the energy efficiency of your HVAC.

If you want to stay cool in your home, you don’t need to turn down the temperature on your thermostat too far. Keeping your thermostat set at 78 degrees Fahrenheit will keep your home cool without wasting too much energy.

You should also learn to rely on ceiling fans to lower the temperature in the room. With a ceiling fan, you can increase the temperature on the thermostat by 4 degrees Fahrenheit without affecting your comfort.

It is also advisable to install a programmable thermostat in your home. Use this tool to preset your home’s heating and cooling schedule. For example, set the thermostat to turn off automatically every day during working hours so that the air conditioner does not waste energy to maintain a comfortable temperature in an empty house. Using a programmable thermostat to set your heating and cooling schedule can ensure you don’t forget to turn off the appliance before you leave the house or go to bed.

Keep devices and appliances such as lamps, televisions and computers away from your thermostat. These items tend to give off heat when they are in use, so the thermostat could sense the heat they give off and assume the room needs to be cooled. This can leave your air conditioner running 24/7, dramatically increasing your energy use and utility bills.

Finally, make sure you schedule regular HVAC inspections with professional technicians. A technician can carefully examine the device and identify problems that could affect its energy efficiency. If these problems are caught early, they can be fixed before they impact the device’s power consumption.

Take the time to make wise decisions about your home cooling system today. Following these tips can help homeowners choose the right HVAC unit for their home and reduce their utility bills. A Home Energy Audit is the next step to reduce your carbon footprint even more!

Want more energy efficiency tips? Check out 100 ways to improve the energy efficiency of your home

EER or Energy-Efficiency Ratio is an energy performance rating for primarily refrigeration equipment. You can find them in any data sheet for an air conditioner. The energy-efficiency ratio is invaluable when it comes to comparing different air conditioners in terms of energy efficiency.

What is EER?

Definition: The EER rating gives you the ratio of the usable cooling capacity (in BTU/h) to the power consumption (measured in W).

A higher EER rating means an air conditioner is providing a lot of cooling effect for every watt of energy you provide.

What is EER in AC?

Quick example: We have a 10,000 BTU AC unit with 10 EER. The EER rating (10) tells us that to give us 10,000 BTUs of cooling capacity, we need to provide a 1,000W air conditioner.

We’ll look at how EER is calculated and what a good EER rating is for different types of air conditioners.

How to calculate the EER rating of an air conditioner

Calculating the EER rating is very simple. You just need to know two handy metrics:

capacity of an air conditioner. Examples: 6,000 BTUs, 10,000 BTUs, 12,000 BTUs, 18,000 BTUs.

an air conditioner. Examples: 6,000 BTUs, 10,000 BTUs, 12,000 BTUs, 18,000 BTUs. performance of an air conditioner. Examples: 800W, 1000W, 1200W, 1400W.

To get an EER rating, you need to divide an air conditioner’s capacity by its output. Here is the EER equation to use:

EER Rating = Capacity (in BTU) / Power (in W)

Let’s say we have a 12,000 BTU mini split air conditioner running at 1000W. We can calculate the EER rating as follows:

EER Rating = 12,000 BTU / 1000W = 12

The EER rating of 12 tells us that for every 1W of energy we put into the air conditioner, the air conditioner gives us 12 BTUs of cooling effect.

That’s a lot better than, say, a 12,000 BTU, 1,400W air conditioner. The EER rating in this case would be 12,000 BTU/1,400W = 8.57. This means that for every 1W of energy, this air conditioner would give us only 8.57 BTU of cooling effect instead of 12 BTU. This in turn makes the EER 12 unit 40% more energy efficient than the EER 8.57 unit.

The EER rating of 12 is an excellent energy efficiency rating for an air conditioner. Some of the best devices can even achieve more than 12 EER. The best mini split air conditioners have an extremely high EER rating of 12+ (check them here).

However, it is important to understand that EER is based on a fixed set of conditions, namely:

Outside temperature: 95F

Inside temperature: 80F

Relative humidity: 50%

Obviously, different air conditioners behave differently in real conditions. Therefore, additional metrics such as SEER and CEEP were introduced. EER is mainly used for room air conditioners, SEER for central air conditioners, and CEEP for window air conditioner energy efficiency.

What is a good EER rating for AC units?

Some types of air conditioners are more energy efficient than others.

The easiest way to check which are wise choices if you’re looking to save on your electricity bill is to check their EER rating.

The EER rating is most commonly used when comparing room air conditioners. The most popular of these are portable air conditioners, which can be easily moved from one room to another.

The average EER rating of portable AC units is about 8.5. That means it’s not advisable to buy those below EER 8.5, and buying those above 8.5 is a pretty smart move in terms of efficiency. The most energy efficient portable AC device (Whynter Dual Hose) has an EER rating of 11.2.

Here is a chart of how energy efficient portable air conditioners are (in %) compared to a standard EER 8.5 portable air conditioner:

For example, as you can see, an EER 7 unit is 18% less efficient than the EER 8.5 unit. This means that 18% more electricity is used for the same effect.

At the other end of the spectrum we see that an EER 11 unit is 29% more efficient than an EER 8.5 unit. In comparison, running an EER 11 portable air conditioner is 29% cheaper.

A special case are the battery-powered portable AC devices. For example, the best battery powered AC Zero Breeze Mark 2 has an EER rating of just 3.54 despite being a dual hose unit. Unfortunately, that is the nature of battery-powered electronic devices.

Theoretical maximum EER (based on the 1st law of thermodynamics)

In practice, the EER rating is calculated by dividing the capacity of an air conditioner by the input power, as we saw above. However, by applying the first law of thermodynamics, we can calculate the maximum EER that a perfect air conditioner could have.

Theoretical EER is derived from the COP (Coefficient Of Performance; a basic metric for cooling and heating equipment). Here is the equation that calculates the maximum EER from COP:

COP = T cold / (T hot – T cold )

EER = 3.41 x COP

where Thot is the hot summer temperature outside and Tcold is the cold temperature that the air conditioner is designed to provide in our house.

Let’s say we have a hot summer. The outside temperature is 95°F (Thot = 308K) and we want to cool down to 80°F (Tcold = 300K). To calculate the theoretical maximum EER for these conditions, we need to plug the temperature (in degrees Celsius) into the above equation:

EER = 3.41 x 300K / (308K – 300K) = 127.9

Obviously, in real life, the EER rating can even be 10 times or more lower.

How to diagnose your car’s air conditioning with A/C Pro

If your car’s air conditioner is blowing hot air, you probably have a few questions. What is wrong with that? How much will it cost? Can I fix it myself?

In some cases, you may need a professional mechanic to diagnose what’s wrong with your car’s air conditioning, a service they (rightly) charge money for. Likewise, there are some air conditioning repairs that the average person should leave to the professionals.

In many cases, however, you – even you – can find out what’s wrong with your car’s air conditioning system and fix the problem yourself, and all for less than it would cost to diagnose at most auto repair shops alone. You don’t even need fancy tools; all you need is a can of A/C Pro, which is available at most auto parts stores and major retailers.

We’re not saying it will diagnose every problem, but it will at least narrow down the options. It lets you know if you need to take it to a mechanic or you can just fix it yourself.

Here’s how.

What you will need:

Gloves, goggles and an A/C Pro gauge. The gauge is part of the standard all-in-one A/C Pro solution, but you can also buy it separately (and add a separate can of A/C Pro later if needed).

If you get the all-in-one kit and don’t end up needing to use the A/C Pro, it’s worth noting that some stores allow you to return unopened products for a full refund (make sure to keep your receipt!). You can use the meter yourself to diagnose the system without opening the can. So if you find that A/C Pro isn’t the solution, returning it might be an option. (You’ll need to check the store’s return policy to be sure.)

Step 1: Start the engine and turn the air conditioning to maximum.

Make sure the fan is on the highest setting and the temperature is on the coldest setting.

Step 2: Check if the air conditioning compressor is running.

Open the hood and locate the compressor. If you don’t know what an air conditioning compressor looks like, check out our guide to belt driven accessories. The A/C compressor is the only belt driven part with a clutch and the center part of the pulley only rotates when the clutch is engaged. So if you see a pulley that doesn’t turn even though the belt is moving around it, that’s the compressor.

With the air conditioning on, it is normal for the compressor clutch to cycle off and on periodically. To see how it should work watch this 20 second video.

If the compressor doesn’t turn on at all when the air conditioner is set to maximum, there could be something wrong with the compressor. But you won’t know for sure until you check the print. Regardless of whether the compressor is running or not, checking the pressure is the next step.

Step 3: Check the pressure with the A/C Pro pressure gauge.

To do this you will have to find the service connection for the low pressure air conditioning system, which we will explain here. You can also use our port locator tool. Because the hose attached to the A/C Pro gauge only snaps onto the low-pressure port, you’ll know with certainty when you’ve got it right.

Turn the dial on the gauge to the approximate outside temperature and read the pressure.

If the compressor is not running:

The pressure gauge measures the pressure when the compressor is running. When it’s not running, the pressure is higher than if the compressor were on. In other words, if the gauge reads in the “normal” range when the compressor is off, then the refrigerant is actually low.

Compressors are designed to shut themselves down if the refrigerant level gets too low. So if the gauge reads in the ‘low’ or even ‘normal’ range, the compressor may be working as intended and simply needing more refrigerant before it will turn on. You can test this by adding a few ounces of A/C Pro as explained in the can’s instructions. Then, when the compressor starts running, you know the problem was low refrigerant and you can stop adding A/C Pro until your AC is cold again.

If the compressor doesn’t turn on after adding some refrigerant, or if the gauge reads in the ‘high’ range, you know something is indeed wrong with the compressor itself. To fix the problem you will probably need to take it to a professional.

When the compressor is running:

As long as the compressor is on (even if it’s only on for a few seconds at a time), you can use the pressure gauge to measure the pressure. Just make sure you read the pressure during the times the compressor is running.

If the pressure is low all you have to do is add A/C Pro until the needle on the pressure gauge is in the recommended range and make sure you check the temperature of your inner center vent regularly. Lack of refrigerant is the most common air conditioning problem, which is why A/C Pro is usually a quick, easy and inexpensive fix. It tops up the refrigerant, adds the right amount of lubricant and seals the small rubber leaks that usually lead to a low refrigerant level.

All you have to do is add A/C Pro until the needle is on the gauge. Lack of refrigerant is the most common air conditioning problem, which is why A/C Pro is usually a quick, easy and inexpensive fix. It tops up the refrigerant, adds the right amount of lubricant and seals the small rubber leaks that usually lead to a low refrigerant level. If the pressure is high with the compressor running, DO NOT add refrigerant. In this case the problem may be that you already have too much refrigerant. It could also mean something is wrong with the compressor or expansion valve. Either way, you’ll probably want to see a mechanic.

do NOT add refrigerant. In this case the problem may be that you already have too much refrigerant. It could also mean something is wrong with the compressor or expansion valve. Either way, you’ll probably want to see a mechanic. If the pressure is in the right range, but the air conditioner is still blowing hot air, then something is unusual with the system and you need a professional diagnosis.

One final note: A/C Pro fixes leaks, but only small leaks. If it took at least two weeks for your air conditioner to go from cold to hot, then you have a small leak. If your air conditioner was cold yesterday and is blowing hot air today, then you either have a major leak or some other problem with the system. That would be one of those situations where you shouldn’t use A/C Pro.

Questions? Feel free to ask the pro. Follow us on Facebook or Twitter for more car tips and tricks.

You’re ready for a summer weekend road trip; but suddenly you find that your car air conditioner is not working properly in the middle of the highway. Or is the car air conditioning not cooling enough? What’s next?

Surely you can’t afford to be cooked in the heat! The outside temperature is closer to 100 degrees and the heated engine continues to blow heated air into your vehicle. Also, it’s difficult to find a service center or mechanic in the middle of nowhere.

Believe me, nothing can be a spoiler to ruin that weekend getaway you’ve been planning for a long time! That’s one of the reasons why you need to know the factors that can be the likely culprits for affecting your car’s air conditioning. Let’s take a deep dive into some of them, here are 10 reasons why your car air conditioner is not cooling enough:

Is the cooling of the car air conditioner low? mold and mildew formation

If we tend to leave the car air conditioning on for a long time, small microorganisms can block the air conditioning vents. These bacteria can block the air conditioner vent and affect the cooling process. When this happens, the air vents will not work properly no matter how hard you try. This is one of the reasons why your car air conditioner is not cooling the cabin properly. In order to avoid such a threat, it is better to take the car for maintenance at least after 5-6 months. Regular maintenance not only cleans the AC duct, but also prevents common dust particles and other microorganisms such as bacteria and mold from rapidly growing and multiplying. It is not only a hygienic remedy, but also a smart way to preserve the durability of your car air conditioner, thereby extending the life of your car air cooler.

Is the cooling of the car air conditioner low? Electrical problems could be the reason

An unwanted short circuit in the electrical unit is another unexpected reason that your car air conditioner may stop working. It’s a common thing in max vehicles these days. If you live in a climate where the outside temperature tends to rise above 45 degrees, the electrical wires can get hot enough and cause a short in the internal wiring. There is a smart DIY repair to avoid such inconvenience. Analyze the area where the wire was shot, seal it with electricity proof tape and connect the other end to the hookup wire. However, you can also take the car to an authorized auto repair shop to have this done. If your auto insurance covers the same thing, you can sit back and let the experts do their job. Sometimes you may not be able to diagnose the problem, and if you route or move the wire during a home improvement repair, you can cause more damage to the circuit installed within it. You may have to swamp a large amount of dollars to cover the cost of repairs.

Is the cooling of the car air conditioner low? AC Refrigerant Leak Refrigerant leak is another cause from which your car air conditioner may not work. In fact, the refrigerant keeps your cabin cool. In most cases, a refrigerant leak has been shown to be a common cause of car air conditioning system malfunction. Such problems appear when your car has an unexpected accident. The AC hose is leaking at the joints and it is very difficult to determine where the damage was done. The oily substance that collects around the hose indicates a leak in the refrigerant. In short, your refrigerant is damaged and you need to have it repaired. It’s better if you avoid doing it yourself because you don’t know how to deal with the technical issue and what is the cause of such problem. Therefore, consider hiring an authorized auto mechanic to repair it before embarking on a long drive.

Is the cooling of the car air conditioner low? Blocked/Broken Condenser A broken condenser is another real cause that your car’s air conditioning system may not be working properly. It’s this special unit in your car that keeps the refrigerant cool and then flows through the fan, converting the hot air into cool air. This air blows through the air conditioning vents that you breathe in the car. It is in front of the trellis. If there are problems, you can locate and easily diagnose the grid. If there is a blockage and dirt or dust is found in it, the problem can cause the car to overheat. The heated air that constantly rushes through the vents in your vehicle can damage the condenser if not handled carefully. Such problems put enough stress on the car’s AC motor and can eventually affect your vehicle’s air cooler. So you better be careful! The wise decision is to take the car to a professional auto repair shop that is authorized to repair similar car models.

Faulty Compressor Well, we all know what scroll compressors play in your vehicle’s air conditioning system. It keeps the air conditioning running and when it malfunctions, the refrigerant does not circulate properly. It blows hot air into the vehicle interior. It is a common scenario when you start the car air conditioner after a long time, say after two to three months (especially in the winter months). During the summer time when you need to use the air conditioner, the compressors may not work properly after not using them for a long time. If you turn on your vehicle’s air conditioning after a long period of time, say 15-20 minutes, regardless of the weather outside, the compressors are expected to work properly.

Blown Fuse A blown fuse is another reason for affecting your car’s air conditioning cooling. To diagnose the problem, the AC fuse needs to be replaced. It not only stops the compressor, but also disperses hot air throughout the cabin. Aside from that, a blown fuse can affect the entire electrical circuit installed in your car, thereby affecting the intact switches in your car’s circuit board. This is one of the reasons why your car needs a reliable mechanic if it shows such syndrome when trying to access the air conditioning. Replacing the AC fuse in the switch box is not a big deal. However, getting an expert’s approval can help prevent similar problems with your car in the future.

Faulty air conditioning fan Faulty fan openings are another reason for uncomfortable air conditioning cooling in the car. This is one of the reasons why it is important to diagnose fan vents after a certain period of time of 6 to 8 months. However, you can also run a DIY diagnostic to see how well it’s working. Use your palms in front of your vents and feel the speed of airflow in your hands. If everything sounds good, the air cooler is working properly. If not, the fan will not rotate at the required speed and you will feel it on the palm of your hand. Then you need a mechanic to fix a technical problem like this.

Damaged compressor belt The compressor requires a lot of power and energy to work properly. If the compressor becomes weak or worn out from constant use, then there is a noticeable lack of energy in the compressor, which causes the air conditioner to malfunction. Week Compressor belts are preventing your car from starting. These compressor belts typically drive the power and energy in your vehicle. If there is a malfunction, the air conditioner will not work as expected. It is highly recommended to have it repaired by an authorized auto repair shop or shop and have the compressor belts replaced as soon as possible. Any carelessness in this part can shorten the life of the air conditioning system and also the life of your vehicle’s engine.

Check This Out: What Happens If You Don’t Maintain Your Car Air Conditioner?

Clogged Cabin Air Filter It can be one of the common problems when the air conditioner is not cooling enough. You can diagnose it yourself. Just open a dashboard holder and remove the cabin filter when it gets dirty. This is the reason it properly reduces the air intake into the cabin. If so, it’s time to change it. You can do it yourself by simply buying a genuine cabin air filter and replacing it with an old one, and voila, you’re good to go. If you are still facing the same problem, you should pay a visit to the certified workshop.

Engine overheating can also be the cause An overheated engine always makes the fan in the radiator ineffective. Not only does it prevent the condenser from cooling the vehicle, but it also uses the maximum efficiency of the refrigerant to inject hot air into the car. It is always better to seek professional help to avoid such problems as this will further help your vehicle to avoid further problems related to the air conditioner installed in your vehicle.