Honey Wax Release Agent? The 230 Detailed Answer

Carnauba wax, also known as Brazil wax or Ceara wax, is a vegetable wax obtained from the fronds of the Brazilian carnauba palm (Copernicia prunifera). Prized among natural waxes for its hardness and high melting temperature, carnauba wax is used as a vegan, food-grade polish and as a hardening or gelling agent in a number of products. Although it has been replaced by cheaper plastics in many applications, it is still common as a component of certain furniture, leather, car and shoe polishes and is used in cosmetics such as lipsticks. It is also used as a polish for candies and medicinal pills, as a thickener for solvents and oils, and as a hardener for printing inks.

The Carnauba Palm is a fan palm native to northeastern Brazilian savannas, where it is nicknamed the “Tree of Life” for its many beneficial products. After 50 years, the tree can reach a height of over 14 meters (45 feet). It has a dense, large crown of round, light green leaves. During the regular dry seasons in northern Brazil, the carnauba palm protects its meter-long fronds from moisture loss by secreting a layer of carnauba wax on the top and bottom of the leaves. The leaves are cut from September to March and dried in the sun. The powdery wax is removed by beating the shriveled leaves, then melted, sieved, and cooled. The final product is yellow or brown-green depending on the age of the leaves and processing quality.

The wax consists mainly of esters of long-chain alcohols and acids. It has a melting point of around 85 °C (185 °F).

Mold parting is required when working with resin. Show more photos

Casting resins, which are often used to create custom jewelry or model parts, are versatile, hard substances once dry. There are many types of resins for projects, but all require a mold release agent to prevent the resin from sticking to the mold. Not using a mold release agent generally results in a ruined project, mold, or both. If traditional mold release agents are not readily available for your projects, there are other materials that you can use as successful mold release replacements.

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cooking spray

Cooking sprays are designed to prevent food from sticking to cookware, but they’re also useful for preventing other things from sticking together. Non-stick cooking spray, available at almost any grocery store, works as a suitable resin mold release agent. It is non-toxic and will not harm the resin or mold. Once you’ve removed the resin creation from the mold, use a rag to wipe the cooking spray off the resin and mold.

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talcum powder

Talcum powder can be used as a mold release agent with flexible silicone molds that are not very detailed, such as B. a simple cabochon shape or a hemisphere. Talc would not work well with solid, inflexible molds or fine detail as it would not coat the mold enough to prevent sticking in detailed areas.

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vaseline

Vaseline is a suitable mold release agent that works best on simple shapes with no fine detail. The jelly thins when applied by hand and coats the mold material. When used on highly detailed molds, the petroleum jelly can be as thick as some of the fine detail, resulting in lost detail on your finished resin object.

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vegetable and mineral oil

Vegetable oils, such as those used in cooking, are also suitable mold release agents and can be applied by rubbing the oil into the mold with a paper towel. Mineral oil can be used in the same way. If applied too thickly any type of oil can collect in some of the mold details. Excess oil can be wiped up with a paper towel.

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When dealing with epoxy resin, you can use your imagination to create any shape you can imagine. You can even make your own shapes and forms, the possibilities are endless. The problem arises when you need to release your cured resin from the mold. In many cases you will need a resin mold release agent for this. Read on to learn more about the pros and cons of mold release agents and the different ways they can be used, especially for use on silicone molds.

What are mold release agents?

A mold release agent is a chemical that prevents certain materials from sticking together. If a release agent is not added, these materials will stick together, which then leads to further problems with cleaning and creating a perfect cast.

Do you regularly use epoxy resin and molds? You will then understand the need for an epoxy release agent. Always use an epoxy release agent in your molds as you don’t want your epoxy to stick to your mold. They use the resin mold release agent not only on small castings, but also on larger projects. For example embedding epoxy into the wood or other types of materials.

If you decide to use your own moulds, regardless of whether it is glass fiber mats or epoxy resin, remember to apply a suitable release agent to the negative mould. However, if you don’t use a release agent, the resulting shape can’t come loose and all your work would have been for naught. The epoxy release agent creates a barrier between the mold and the resin, preventing the resin from sticking to the mold. If the resin sticks, it will damage the mold and most likely you will no longer be able to use the mold. Epoxy release agents can be used for:

polyester resin

polyurethane resin (occasionally)

There is no suitable epoxy release agent for materials such as wood. Because wood and some other materials such as plaster or foam are porous, they absorb the release agent and it is then ineffective. So when we talk about a wood-epoxy release agent in the future, it means that the wood has been sealed beforehand.

mold release spray

When using an epoxy mold release agent there are two uses, a release wax and a release spray. Which one you choose depends on what you want to do. A mold release spray works well for more complicated and smaller molds as it sprays on easily. The wax release agent must be rubbed onto the surfaces.

The mold release spray acts as a mixture of wax substances and aerosol. The aerosol applies the barrier wax substance to the mold. The wax substance remains while the aerosol particles evaporate.

Best use for mold release spray

The mold release spray is great for molds with detailed surfaces and lots of corners. The spraying process gets into the corners and evenly distributes the release agent on an uneven surface. Sometimes the release agent can remain on your resin cast. To get an even finish you can buff your resin epoxy cast or try soap and water. In most cases this is not required.

Applying the mold release spray

The surface to be sprayed must be clean and free of grease stains or dirt. The same applies to all mold release agents including the wax and PVA release agent. Leaving residue on the surface of your mold before pouring will prevent the release agent from sticking to the mold. The release agent just slides over the surface without doing its job. Once your casting has hardened, it will be difficult to demould and this can damage the mold.

After thoroughly cleaning the surface, shake your mold release spray can. Spray over your mold surface making sure it’s just a thin coat. Spray at every angle, making sure to hold the can about 20-30cm from the mold while spraying. Leave on for about 2-3 minutes. Then polish the layer with a soft cloth if necessary.

For new molds, you should apply at least three coats using the procedure outlined above. After spraying each coat, allow to flash off overnight (the time required to wait before applying another coat).

We recommend: Stoner mold release spray

Stoner Molding have their own brand of mold release spray that also contains wax. You can easily use the spray on a variety of materials. The mold release spray makes demoulding during casting an easy experience. The product offers everything you could wish for in an epoxy release agent. Let’s take a look at a few pros and cons of using the Stoner Mold Release Spray:

STONER Urethane Mold Release Spray Specially formulated as a release agent and non-stick lubricant

Allows easy removal from molds for multiple molding processes

Extends the life of your molds. View on Amazon

Benefits It’s one of the epoxy mold release agents that you can use on porous surfaces. So this would be your choice for use on wood, but you should apply at least multiple coats to be effective.

You can use it for both intricate and larger areas.

Can be used for polyester resin, PMMA, polyurethane and cast resin.

Free from silicone and polluting gases.

Effortless to use, even for beginners.

Offers the best release effect and can be easily demolded. Disadvantages Not suitable for creating a barrier between silicone materials. If you want to separate silicone, a mold release wax or petroleum jelly will work better.

mold release wax

The mold release wax comes in a container as a wax and not in a spray form. Most come in liquid form, but others have a paste-like consistency. The wax is easy to apply with a brush or cloth. Straight from the container, place it on your cloth, which you can then use to rub onto your mold. You can use the wax on other surfaces besides silicone. After you have applied the wax to your mold and your resin project has cured, the surface may appear dull after removal. You can easily fix this by buffing it until it shines.

Best use for mold release wax

It is best to use release wax on flat, large surfaces. If you have a more detailed mold, it’s better to use the mold release spray instead. Even if you use a cloth with the wax, it can be difficult to get into those small and tricky corners.

You can usually use a mold several times, but it is advisable to clean the mold thoroughly after each use. You can easily clean your mold with some warm water and some steel wool, this should remove any wax residue.

Applying the mold release wax

When using a wax release agent it is mostly in liquid form so it is recommended to shake it before use. This remixes the solvent and wax, which can separate over time. Next, you can simply scrape off the wax with a spatula and then place it on a clean, soft cloth. Apply the wax to the mold with the cloth.

Leave the wax on for about 5 minutes, then you can use another clean cloth to buff the wax. For new molds you may need to apply another coat. You should leave the first coat on overnight before applying the second coat.

To give the wax a shinier look you can treat it with some PVA release varnish.

We recommend: ORCA Shimmer Mold Release Wax

You can use Orca Shimmer Mold Release Wax on all types of resin and it offers many benefits. For this reason we can highly recommend this product. When applying the wax release agent, the flash-off time must be observed. If you are applying more than one layer of wax, you should wait overnight before applying the next layer. You should follow this rule as it prevents the wax from mixing with the resin. When pouring your resin, the wax in your mold should not be sticky, it should be smooth and tack-free. Let’s take a look at a few pros and cons when it comes to using the Orca Shimmer Mold Release Wax:

ORCA Shimmer Mold Release Wax Highly effective carnauba based paste wax for easy parting

Suitable for a variety of different resin products

Protects your molds and is abrasion resistant View on Amazon

Benefits The silicone mold release wax for resin can be used with a PVA release varnish for a shinier effect. You don’t need to add the PVA if you’ve polished the wax properly.

The wax release agent is highly effective due to its consistency.

The wax not only works well on epoxy resin, but also in polyester resin, topcoat and gelcoat resin.

It is extremely easy to apply and remove the wax. Cons You cannot use the wax release agent on wood and other porous materials unless you apply the correct release sealer or varnish first.

The price of Orca Shimmer Mold Release Wax may be expensive compared to other similar products, but the benefits are more than enough to offset this downside.

PVA release varnish

The paint serves as a mold release agent, but also as a demolding aid for cast parts. Spray a layer onto your negative mold and is used like a release spray to create a layer or film. The lacquer is made from polyvinyl alcohol and acts as an excellent mold release coating.

Best use for PVA release varnish

In most cases, when used on epoxy resin, PVA release varnish is used in conjunction with a wax release agent for best results. The varnish acts as a second barrier between the resin and the mold.

This ensures you a simple and perfect demoulding process and also ensures a high-gloss surface. Using PVA release varnish eliminates the need to polish your cured resin item. In addition, you can use it on porous as well as sealed surfaces such as wood, plaster, melamine or resin pressed boards.

Application of PVA release varnish

There are a number of ways to apply the PVA epoxy release agent. You can use a brush or sponge, or use a spray gun. It is best applied with a transverse movement. First apply along the surface or top to bottom, then across or left to right and then end to end again.

You should apply at least three coats, a thin first coat that you should let dry or flash off for about 10-15 minutes. Then apply a thicker second and third coat, between each coat you should wait 10-15 minutes for the varnish to dry completely before proceeding.

Once you’ve demolded your cast, you should be able to easily remove any residue with a sponge and some warm water.

We recommend: PARTALL PVA release agent

This is a great product for silicone, wood and many other materials. Let’s take a look at some pros and cons of using Partall PVA Release Agent.

PARTALL PVA Release Agent Forms a barrier between parts and tool surfaces

It is solvent and styrene resistant, yet water soluble.

Suitable for use with almost all types of resin. View on Amazon

Best product for producing high-gloss surfaces.

You can easily mix it with a wax release agent for additional benefits.

An extremely concentrated product that is affordable.

You can even use it with polyester resins, which are easy to demould.

You can use it for epoxy and casting resin as well as for topcoat and gelcoat resin.

The Partall PVA Release product doesn’t seem to have any real downsides as it does what it says on the tin. The product is easy to use and offers excellent demolding results. The product is the best mold release agent for all types of resin, but is especially good when used with epoxy resin.

Substitutes that you can use instead of standard mold release agents

If you don’t have a lot of money to splurge on a special mold release formula, or you just need to release a mold, there are a few DIY substitutes you can use. You will find many of these substitutes in your home, and they are affordable and easy to use.

vaseline

Vaseline is best used on simple shapes that lack fine detail. You can easily apply a thin layer to your mold by hand. If you apply it to more detailed shapes, the jelly can hide the finer details, which will then affect the end result.

mineral or vegetable oil

Both oils are good mold release agents and apply easily with paper towels. Be careful not to add too much oil as it could build up. This can be remedied by using a paper towel soaking up any access oil.

Spray and cook

Commonly used in cooking to prevent food from sticking to a pan or other cookware. Easily available, Spray and Cook is a non-stick spray that makes an excellent mold release agent. The non-toxic spray will not damage your mold or the resin. Simply wipe away any residue from your final resin item with a clean cloth.

talcum powder

Talcum powder works great as a release agent for silicone molds, but for molds with less detail. For example, a hemispherical shape or a jewel-shaped shape. Talcum powder doesn’t work with solid or hard shapes or shapes with more detail. This is because the powder doesn’t cover the mold properly and doesn’t prevent the resin from sticking to those spots.

A guide to effortless demoulding

When using epoxy it depends on what mold you will be using to decide which mold release agent is best.

Two-dimensional shapes: A release wax works best.

Detailed Molds: Mold release spray works best.

To easily release your casting from the mold, here are a few things to keep in mind. It all depends on the size of your mold and its design. When demoulding, try to loosen the edges first. This should start the demolding process in most cases, some castings even come out immediately when turned upside down.

If your first try doesn’t work, you can try demolding wedges. You can easily buy these at your local hardware store or online. The wedges are also perfect for releasing two-part molds. You can also tap the mold lightly with a rubber mallet to pop your item out of the mold. Another method to help with demolding if you have the equipment is to use compressed air.

If you are a frequent user of epoxy, for crafting or work, then at some point you will need a release agent. In this article, we’ve outlined our top mold release product recommendations and shared our tips and tricks for smooth mold releases. If you have more questions, check out our frequently asked questions below!

frequently asked Questions

Can you explain what mold release wax is?

Mold release wax is a substance used to prevent resin or other mold materials from binding to a mold. Best used on larger, flat molds that form a layer between your mold and your mold. This will prevent your casting from sticking to the mold.

Can you explain what release spray is?

Mold release spray is a substance that prevents items from sticking to surfaces or to each other. The spray forms a layer or barrier between the mold and the pouring medium, making demoulding a hassle-free process.

Are there alternative mold release agents?

You can use common materials like vegetable oil, mineral oil, cooking spray, or petroleum jelly. This is a much cheaper way than commercial mold release agents.

Can the WD-40 lube act as a mold release agent?

This product consists of strong acids that can penetrate rust. Although the lube will only dry out your skin if exposed, it will surely damage your mold. In addition, it has an extremely thin consistency and does not stick to the mold surface.

Our goal at ComposiMold: give people the tools to duplicate and make anything they want.

How do we achieve this? With the simplest mold making materials available.

Impressive putty: heat, press and cool. Yes. It’s that simple. No molding box required. No mold release agent is required for plastics, resins, low-melting metals or compostone. Use our plaster release agent for making plaster molds.

ComposiMold: heat, pour and allow to cool. You will need a mold box (usually a cup or bowl. Use vegetable oil mold release agent.

All ComposiMold mold products are reusable. They will be there when you need them! Use them today, tomorrow or next year. Your molds are ready to use. You can also store your molds if you like by placing them in a Press-n-Seal bag and keeping in a cool place.

When do you use ComposiMold? If you want big details, flexible rubber shapes. If you want to learn how to make molds without wasting money. When you want a mold making material that’s always available.

When do you use ImPRESSive Putty? If you want super easy to make shapes. If you want a higher melting point than ComposiMold. If you want to make shapes that are not possible in a mold box, e.g. B. on a wall, a statue or on the head.

The 10oz. ComposiMold should be melted in 30 second intervals until completely melted. I have included the heating instructions from the ComposiMold containers.

ComposiMold is certified to last at least 35 times. The material will last more than 50 times if the user is careful to avoid overheating the ComposiMold (heat slowly in short intervals). When ComposiMold reaches the end of its life, the original part does not come loose from the mold, but the mold breaks apart. However, this is also a sign that the mold is too warm and hasn’t had enough time to cool down. Cooling times depend on ambient temperature and size of mold, 10 ounces. takes about 30 minutes to cool in the typical freezer.

Any cooking oil or cooking spray will work as a mold release agent, such as B. Pam cooking spray, olive oil, canola oil, vegetable oil, etc. Avoid using too much mold release as it will cause defects in the mold (Wipe up any buildup or build-up).

For washing, the mold should be rinsed with cold water and then immediately heated in the microwave to evaporate the excess water. Do not use hot water or use in the dishwasher (it will dissolve). Cutting the shape into chunks seems to speed up heating time, but it isn’t required or necessary.

10 ounces. from ComposiMold is 237 ml and covers an object that is 9 cm x 9 cm x 2.5 cm or similar.

Each ComposiMold can be used for food contact molds or non-food products. After being used for non-food contact casting materials such as resin, plaster, concrete, silicone… these products contaminate the mold making it no longer food safe.

When do you want to use silicone molds? If you want to spend more money on your molds. If you want a shape that cannot be remelted and reused. If you know you don’t want to make any changes or fix the mold if it breaks. Use silicone molds when you want to make an entirely new mold when the first one is outdated. If you want a shape that will remain as a rubber even after the mold wears out.

How about latex mold making material? Check out silicone molds and if you want a smelly mold.

Silicone-to-silicone applications such as making two-part molds or pouring silicone into silicone are possible but require a release agent. This release agent must not contain any appreciable amount of silicone oil. Here are some sharing options:

Mann Ease Release™ 200 is specially formulated to release silicone rubber from silicone and other surfaces. Applied as a light mist coat, it does not spoil surface detail.

In some cases, a mixture of 2 parts isopropyl alcohol and 1 part dish soap can be used to separate silicone from silicone.

can be used in some cases to separate silicone from silicone. Vaseline can be used to separate silicone from silicone, but it should be thinned with mineral spirits so it can be applied in a thin layer with minimal visible brush marks.

Whenever possible, you should consider doing a little testing to ensure the release agent is working effectively for your particular silicone combination.

PVA (polyvinyl alcohol, not to be confused with polyvinyl acetate wood glue) mold release agent can be wiped, sprayed or wiped onto a wide variety of pattern and mold surfaces to provide a highly compatible and reliable release barrier for polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy composites.

PVA is often the first choice release agent when there is an increased risk of a mold sticking to a model or a part sticking to a mold, e.g. B. when models or molds are used for the initial parting operations or when potentially incompatible resin systems are used for the mold and the part (e.g. with polyester molds to make epoxy parts.

Further information

application instructions

When used correctly, PVA is very unlikely to fail as a release agent, although whether applied with a rag or sprayed onto a mold surface, it always leaves a slight texture on the finished part that needs to be polished away. Because of this, PVA is often only used for early releases or when release issues are more likely. A mold that has had some release done and is made of a suitable material for the parts you will be making can then be switched to mold release wax which can be polished to leave a high gloss finish on the released parts (which PVA cannot do) .

First ensure that the mold surface is adequately sealed (porous surfaces such as wood or plaster must be sealed before they can be used as a model or mold), clean and free of contamination.

Using a clean, lint-free cloth, apply an appropriate amount of PVA mold release agent to an area of ​​the rag. The cloth should be well wetted by the PVA in this area.

Wipe the rag over the surface of the mold in a gentle, deliberate motion. The PVA has a dark blue cube so you can see where you’ve been. Be sure to coat the entire surface of the mold in a thin blue film, paying special attention to tight corners.

PVA is only ever applied in a single layer. Do not attempt to apply a second coat as trying to apply the second coat will simply remove the first coat and result in a more uneven surface.

Allow the PVA to dry completely (about 15 minutes) before you start laminating.

If you reuse a mold you should remove all traces of the PVA with water and clean thoroughly before reapplying PVA.

Mold release can be aided using water, which will dissolve the PVA and aid in mold or part release.

By Tom Pawlak – Technical Advisor to GBI

PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) is a liquid, water-based plastic that can be applied to waxed molds to prevent mold parts from sticking. PVA is not always required. Often laminators rely solely on mold release wax to create a surface contamination on the mold that allows parts to be removed. However, for intricate molds and new molds, when the risk of a part sticking in a mold is greatest, PVA can be applied over a waxed mold to minimize the risk of a part sticking.

PVA can be applied with a brush, paint roller or sprayer. PVA often leaves a texture on the surface of the mold after drying. This texture is duplicated or molded into the part made in the mold. This texture is not a problem for parts that will be painted later. However, for parts that rely on the mold surface to achieve a smooth end result, texture can be an issue.

To achieve the smoothest and least textured PVA coating, apply with a sprayer. The preferred application technique is to spray a few very fine coats of mist a few minutes apart before applying a more generous wet coat over the entire shape. This technique minimizes the likelihood of “fish eyes” or imperfections in the coating and produces a very smooth PVA release coating.

For hobbyists, PVA can be difficult to purchase in small quantities and often requires delivery from out-of-town sources, which may involve a dangerous shipping fee. It is most commonly sold in liquid form, which requires spray equipment for best results. However, sources of PVA exist in aerosol form, making spray application for small part laminators convenient.

Hairspray as a mold release agent

A few years ago my friend Jack Anderson used hairspray instead of PVA as a mold release agent. He had built a mold to make vents for his sailboat. The mold had a minimum draft angle (clearance angle that allows parts to be removed from a mold after the laminate cures). Normally in our Gougeon Brothers shop we prepare molds with several layers of paste wax without applying PVA. However, with this mold the parts were difficult to remove and it was evident that an additional mold release agent would be required to facilitate part removal.

Jack tried to brush PVA into the mold but it ran down the sides and puddled on the floor. It also has fish eyes on the sides of the shape, creating a disappointing effect.

Realizing that hairspray is made out of water-based plastic (because it can be washed out with water after it dries), Jack decided to try it as a mold release agent for his vent mold. He misted the first few coats and then applied a thicker coat. Using the hairspray as a backup mold release agent, Jack was able to release the parts from his mold with less difficulty.

It’s been years since Jack showed me his hairspray/mold release trick, but recently I found a need for PVA for a mold I was building at home. Since the plug for the mold was a bit complicated, I felt I needed insurance to make sure the mold would come loose from the plug. I decided to try Jack’s hairspray trick.

First, I waxed the mold plug with five coats of Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze 8 Maximum Mold Release Wax™ in preparation for applying the hairspray/mold release. I could have also used Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Automotive Paste Wax™ as we have used it successfully as a mold release wax on molds that have not been exposed to temperatures above 110F.

Then I selected an extra strong hold hairspray and chose it over a lighter hold hairspray because it would be less watered down. I also chose an aerosol instead of a pump type as the aerosol would be good for misting the mold. The good news is that my mold detaches from the connector effortlessly. Since then we’ve tried two other high performance hairsprays and both types did a good job of replacing the traditional PVA mold release.

Removing PVA before painting

PVA transfers to the laminated part when the part is removed from the mold. It is important to remove the PVA from the molding before painting as it can cause paint adhesion problems and surface defects in the paint if left on the surface. We remove PVA with warm water and a sanding pad before sanding it in preparation for the paint.

Test first

If you decide to use hairspray instead of PVA to loosen cured epoxy, be sure to test it on a non-critical surface first. Keep in mind that PVA is typically applied to waxed surfaces and is not particularly effective as a sole mold release agent.

Speaking of wax

For hobby builders, auto paste wax made with carnauba wax can often replace mold release wax. Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Automotive Paste Wax is a brand that has worked well for us. Avoid liquid car waxes as they are not as effective and can cause release problems. Apply at least three coats before using the mold for the first time, and then apply another coat after each use. Test any wax you intend to use to ensure it dissolves effectively before using it on critical projects.

Epoxyworks 14 / Fall 1999

For the pharmacological importance see anti-caking agents

Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) is a typical release agent.

A release agent (also mold release agent, release coating, or mold release coating) is a chemical used to prevent other materials from sticking to surfaces. It can provide a solution in processes involving mold release, die cast release, plastic release, adhesive release, and tire and web release.[1]

Release agents provide the critical barrier between a molded part surface and the substrate, facilitating the release of the cured part from the mold. Without such a barrier, the substrate would fuse to the mold surface, resulting in difficult cleaning and a dramatic loss in production efficiency. Even when a release agent is used, factors such as inconsistent application or the wrong choice of release agent can have a dramatic impact on the quality and consistency of the final product. Many types of release agents are used. They are waxes, fatty acid esters, silicones, and metal soaps.[1]

Magnesium stearate is a release agent.

Functionality[ edit ]

Cosolvents[edit]

The reduction of volatile organic compounds (VOC) along with the elimination of health and safety concerns associated with solvent-based release agents have been the primary drivers in the development of co-solvent mold release agents. Cosolvent-based release agents combine the advantages of a solvent-based system with the safety of water-based release agents.[2]

One of the most important properties of a release agent is its durability: how long will it last before it needs to be reapplied. A semi-permanent release agent does not need to be reapplied for each cycle of a molding operation and works even better when not overapplied to the mold surface.

How many releases can be achieved before reapplication is required varies by process, material and application method. Generally, to achieve multiple releases per application, the semi-permanent release coating must be applied to a clean, dry surface free of dirt, rust, grime or previous coatings. This allows the release agent to properly bond to the mold and mold tooling, improving the durability and longevity of the coating.

Victim[ edit ]

Sacrificial coatings must be applied prior to each cycle of a molding operation and are therefore considered more labor intensive. Most molders prefer semi-permanent coatings to sacrificial coatings, particularly when molding rubber and plastic parts. These coatings contain fewer solid components and therefore do not last as long as semi-permanent coatings.

Water or solvent based[ edit ]

Release agents can be water- or solvent-based, and the use of either depends on the personal preference of the caster, plant safety regulations, transportation costs for hazardous materials, state, local, or federal regulations, and/or desired release coating drying times. Water based tool lubricant (WBD) has been used for about 40 years. All die casting machines were developed using WBD.[3] Water-based release coatings generally dry slower than solvent-based releases, but pose fewer health and safety concerns. Water-based release agents are less expensive to ship due to their inherently non-flammable nature and meet most plant safety objectives. Solvent-based release coatings dry almost instantly but pose serious health and safety concerns. Vapors from solvent-based release agents can be hazardous without adequate work area ventilation. Most solvents used in release agents are flammable.

Applications[edit]

asphalt [ edit ]

Asphalt release agents are chemical products designed and manufactured as alternatives to diesel and solvents commonly used for cleaning equipment associated with hot mix asphalt concrete (HMAC) manufacture and placement at government and private facilities. The United States Oil Pollution Act of 1980 was used as the basis for constructing the current program. The intent of asphalt release agents is to eliminate harmful release products that come into contact with bituminous products and to strip the asphalt (binder) from the aggregates that cause potholes, fraying, and other adverse pavement failures.

Concrete [ edit ]

In the concrete construction industry, formwork release agents prevent freshly poured concrete from adhering to the formwork surface, typically plywood, coated plywood, steel or aluminum. There are two types of release agents available in this application: Barrier and Reactive.

Barrier release agents prevent adhesion by developing a physical film or barrier between the formwork surface and the concrete.

Reactive release agents are chemically active and work through a chemical reaction between the release agent and the free lime present in the fresh concrete. A soap film is formed which prevents adhesion. Being a chemically reactive process, there is generally little to no residue or unreacted product left on the formwork surface or concrete, making for a cleaner process.

Food processing[edit]

Separating agents are used to separate food from a cooking container after baking or roasting. Traditionally, fat or flour was used, but other chemicals may be used in industrial food processing. The application is called Bakery Release.

Release agents such as catalyst-cured silicone release coatings can be used in baking paper or parchment paper.

metal casting [ edit ]

Mold release agents can also be used in the die casting or metal forging process of metal such as aluminum, aluminum alloy, zinc, zinc alloy, magnesium, etc.

paper [ edit ]

In industrial papermaking, release agents are used to give the paper a slip effect from the converting equipment. A release agent can be applied on the process rolls (such as the Yankee dryer) or in the paper coating.

Some paper grades are manufactured with low surface energy release coatings:

release liners for pressure sensitive adhesive laminates and tapes

casting papers

General Release Papers for Industry

Food grade release and packaging papers

Medicines [ edit ]

Release agents (e.g. magnesium stearate) are added to powdered and granulated drug compositions to serve as a lubricant for mold release purposes during tableting.

Plastics [edit]

Some plastic films are coated with release agents to prevent adhesives from sticking to the plastic surface. Some release agents, also called mold release agents, mold oil, release agents, or mold release agents, are substances used in molding and casting that help release a mold from the material being molded and reduce imperfections in the molded surface. Slip additives are used in a similar way to prevent thin polyolefin films from sticking to metal surfaces (or each other) during processing, such as in film blowing.

rubber [edit]

There are two types of release agents used in molding rubber products. Both are silicone based. The decision to use has to do with lubricity and release. Water diluted silicone is used when rubber slides over a hot mold (slabs or slugs). The silicone prevents the rubber from sticking to the mold, but it is equally important that it lubricates the rubber so it slides over the hot mold when loading. Diluted silicon typically needs to be deposited every cycle. Semi-permanent mold release agents build up a silicone matrix on the mold which becomes a barrier between the rubber and the metal surface of the mold. The matrix is ​​created by the other components of the semi-permanent mold release agent. Applications of semi-permanent mold release vary from every cycle to once a day applications depending on the compound being molded and the design and quality of the mold. However, silicone-based rubber products require a non-silicone-based release agent.

Making a fiberglass mold

The plug

In order to have a mold from which to develop your form, you must either build the item from scratch out of wood, plaster, polyester putty, formica, sheet metal, etc., or you must have a finished item on hand that you duplicate want . The latter is of course the fastest method. The plug is usually a male model, just like the product you want to make, down to the smallest detail. If the plug doesn’t have a pull (cone), you will have trouble loosening parts. If the plug has reverse bends, like many canoes, you’ll need to make a split shape that can be spread or taken apart.

If the dowel has soft materials such as plaster, wood or putty on its surface, it must be sealed with varnish or resin to fill the pores. If plaster is used, it must be oven dried and then sealed.

To prevent your mold from sticking to the plug, the plug needs to be coated with a plastic film known as “PVA”. This is a plastic dissolved in alcohol and is green in color. It can be brushed on or sprayed on, but the best system is to spray on three thin coats, the first being a “mist coat”. The appearance is then green. Each layer needs about half an hour to dry and there should be no puddles or drips that could mar your mold surface. For the easiest possible release, before applying the PVA, apply a soft wax (TR Mold Release) formulated for use with PVA. After the third layer of PVA has dried, a layer of this wax can be carefully applied over it to ease separation.

Form

The first step is to apply a gel coat that will form the mold surface. The gelcoat must be “Exterior Gelcoat” (wax-free). When many parts need to be demolded, it is desirable to use a “tooling gelcoat” that is designed to last longer when the mold is used. The gelcoat should be a contrasting color to the surface of the part to be made. As most parts are light colored, black gelcoat is commonly used. This makes it easier to spray an even thickness of light colored gelcoat as the black will show through thin spots.

If the gelcoat is to be applied, two coats must be applied and the first coat must cure for several hours before the second coat is applied. The best tool for applying gelcoat is a simple gelcoat gun, designed for the purpose and easy to clean. Air pressure of 80 to 90 pounds is desirable. Gelcoat should be applied at least 15 mils thick, or one quart per 25 square feet of surface. If the connector was rough, requiring significant sanding of the gelcoat, double the application. Of course, before applying the gelcoat, it must be catalyzed with MEKp peroxide hardener, using one to two percent. All gelcoats from the Bottom Paint Store include the MEKp.

When the gelcoat has hardened to the point where it cannot be scraped off the edge of the mold with a fingernail, which takes 2 to 4 hours to overnight in cool or damp weather, you are ready for the “skin coat”. This is a layer of ¾ or 1oz. Fiberglass mat thin enough that you can see and remove any air bubbles trapped by the resin when you “wet” the mat. The resin should be applied with a mohair roller or brush until no white fibers remain. Any air bubbles are then removed with a plastic or metal knurled laminating roller. The polyester resin used should be a wax-free “overlay resin”. Be careful not to over catalyze when putting the glass on. Above 75°F, 10-15ml of hardener per liter is generally sufficient. Below 70°F, 20 cc per quart. Do not work below 65°F.

When laying down a fiberglass mold, warping can be avoided by allowing each layer to “kick” or gel before moving on to the next layer. With a large form, it is good to apply only one coat per day. After the “skin coat” you can use 1½ oz. Fiberglass mat for faster setup. Generally, woven roving is not used in molds as the pattern is transferred to the gelcoat through the mold. When it is necessary to use woven roving fiberglass for strength in a large mold, it is applied after a thickness of 3 or 4 layers of mat is cured. The thickness required in a mold depends on the size and shape and the number of parts to be removed. For a dinghy shape that is only going to be used a few times, four layers of mat may be sufficient.

Remove mold from plug

If possible, let the mold set for several days so that it keeps its shape. The first step is to trim the excess laminate back to the shaped edge. This is easy to do with a saber saw and a hacksaw blade. The edges are carefully sanded until the line between the mold and the plug is exposed. Then a sharpened “tongue stick” is pressed between the mold and the plug to separate the edges. The rod is then pulled around the connector until all edges are free and there are no more bridges. Avoid using metal tools for this purpose as they will scratch the mold surface. Then the mold should separate from the stopper. If not, the parts can be bent or gently tapped with a rubber mallet. If necessary, air or water can be pressed under pressure between the stopper and the mould. A hole can be drilled through the interface for this purpose. PVA is water soluble, which makes it easier to separate with water pressure.

polishing the mold

Depending on the condition of the mold surface, it may need to be sanded with 220 grit, up to 600 grit wet or dry. The surface is then compounded with a regular and fine finish mix formulated for fiberglass work. Best results can be achieved by using special compounds such as 3M Finesse-It Marine Paste Compound to achieve a high gloss finish.

Before using a mold, it’s best to let it set for a week or more, if possible. Be sure to use PVA release film and soft wax for the first 3 or 4 parts, after that a carnauba wax can be used.

gelcoat problems

Alligator formation or wrinkling can result from:

1. Gelcoat too thin in some places

2. Insufficient hardener or unmixed hardener will do.

3. Gelcoat not cured long enough before mat construction.

4. Acetone cleaner drips from roller or brush when laying mats.

Technical original article from Fiberglass Coatings.

A: This depends on 1) the type of molding rubber you are using as your molding material and 2) the composition of your concrete admixture.

1. Which molded rubber do you use?

Silicone rubber has the best release properties, but is subject to the abrasive effects of high aggregate concrete and loses detail over time. It is best to use a release agent such as Smooth-On’s AquaCon® water-based concrete release agent to protect the mold.

Urethane rubber does not inherently have good release properties, so a release agent is recommended from the start. Note; Our customers are finding that even without release agent, high aggregate castings come loose from VytaFlex molds after the mold has been ‘cured’ – it has been used 10-12 times with AquaCon® Release Agent to pour concrete.

2. Additives:

High sand content admixtures generally release easily and do not require mold release from either silicone or urethane molds.

High aggregate admixtures do not readily detach and bond even to a urethane mold.

AquaCon® concrete mold release agent offers the following advantages; a) it will dislodge concrete castings from the mould, b) it will not damage the mould, c) it will not soil your concrete castings and d) it will not affect concrete pigments.

Don’t use: Concrete casters try different release compounds like vegetable oil or petroleum jelly, but these materials will destroy the rubber mold over time and can stain your concrete.

What if I don’t have AquaCon® concrete release agent? Until you get some AquaCon®, you can try dish soap and water mixed with 10 parts water and 1 part soap. Rinse the mold with soapy water and immediately pour your concrete.

By Tom Pawlak – Technical Advisor to GBI

PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) is a liquid, water-based plastic that can be applied to waxed molds to prevent mold parts from sticking. PVA is not always required. Often laminators rely solely on mold release wax to create a surface contamination on the mold that allows parts to be removed. However, for intricate molds and new molds, when the risk of a part sticking in a mold is greatest, PVA can be applied over a waxed mold to minimize the risk of a part sticking.

PVA can be applied with a brush, paint roller or sprayer. PVA often leaves a texture on the surface of the mold after drying. This texture is duplicated or molded into the part made in the mold. This texture is not a problem for parts that will be painted later. However, for parts that rely on the mold surface to achieve a smooth end result, texture can be an issue.

To achieve the smoothest and least textured PVA coating, apply with a sprayer. The preferred application technique is to spray a few very fine coats of mist a few minutes apart before applying a more generous wet coat over the entire shape. This technique minimizes the likelihood of “fish eyes” or imperfections in the coating and produces a very smooth PVA release coating.

For hobbyists, PVA can be difficult to purchase in small quantities and often requires delivery from out-of-town sources, which may involve a dangerous shipping fee. It is most commonly sold in liquid form, which requires spray equipment for best results. However, sources of PVA exist in aerosol form, making spray application for small part laminators convenient.

Hairspray as a mold release agent

A few years ago my friend Jack Anderson used hairspray instead of PVA as a mold release agent. He had built a mold to make vents for his sailboat. The mold had a minimum draft angle (clearance angle that allows parts to be removed from a mold after the laminate cures). Normally in our Gougeon Brothers shop we prepare molds with several layers of paste wax without applying PVA. However, with this mold the parts were difficult to remove and it was evident that an additional mold release agent would be required to facilitate part removal.

Jack tried to brush PVA into the mold but it ran down the sides and puddled on the floor. It also has fish eyes on the sides of the shape, creating a disappointing effect.

Realizing that hairspray is made out of water-based plastic (because it can be washed out with water after it dries), Jack decided to try it as a mold release agent for his vent mold. He misted the first few coats and then applied a thicker coat. Using the hairspray as a backup mold release agent, Jack was able to release the parts from his mold with less difficulty.

It’s been years since Jack showed me his hairspray/mold release trick, but recently I found a need for PVA for a mold I was building at home. Since the plug for the mold was a bit complicated, I felt I needed insurance to make sure the mold would come loose from the plug. I decided to try Jack’s hairspray trick.

First, I waxed the mold plug with five coats of Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze 8 Maximum Mold Release Wax™ in preparation for applying the hairspray/mold release. I could have also used Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Automotive Paste Wax™ as we have used it successfully as a mold release wax on molds that have not been exposed to temperatures above 110F.

Then I selected an extra strong hold hairspray and chose it over a lighter hold hairspray because it would be less watered down. I also chose an aerosol instead of a pump type as the aerosol would be good for misting the mold. The good news is that my mold detaches from the connector effortlessly. Since then we’ve tried two other high performance hairsprays and both types did a good job of replacing the traditional PVA mold release.

Removing PVA before painting

PVA transfers to the laminated part when the part is removed from the mold. It is important to remove the PVA from the molding before painting as it can cause paint adhesion problems and surface defects in the paint if left on the surface. We remove PVA with warm water and a sanding pad before sanding it in preparation for the paint.

Test first

If you decide to use hairspray instead of PVA to loosen cured epoxy, be sure to test it on a non-critical surface first. Keep in mind that PVA is typically applied to waxed surfaces and is not particularly effective as a sole mold release agent.

Speaking of wax

For hobby builders, auto paste wax made with carnauba wax can often replace mold release wax. Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Automotive Paste Wax is a brand that has worked well for us. Avoid liquid car waxes as they are not as effective and can cause release problems. Apply at least three coats before using the mold for the first time, and then apply another coat after each use. Test any wax you intend to use to ensure it dissolves effectively before using it on critical projects.

Epoxyworks 14 / Fall 1999

How do you prevent candles from sticking to the mold? Getting your handmade candles out of their molds can be a tricky and time-consuming task. How do you solve this annoying candle making problem? Successful mold release depends on the additives you mix into the waxes and the candle cooling process you follow after the candle has cured.

Use these simple tips and tricks on different types of wax and mold and solve those sticky mold problems once and for all.

Unmold your paraffin wax candles easily: add 10% stearin to your candle wax. There are other hardeners you can experiment with as well. These additives not only harden, but also shrink the wax somewhat. The candle detaches from the sides of the mold and slides out easily.

Let the candle set in a metal mold overnight if possible. In a hurry? If you cool your candles in the refrigerator, they will quickly decompose. (Not the freezer, this will crack the candles.) Wait for the candle to set and leave the mold in the fridge for an hour. Tip: Water baths greatly speed up the candle’s cooling time (and also prevent leakage). Place plastic, glass, acrylic, or polycarbonate molds in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. A firm pull on the wick (no jerking, the wick could tear), and removing the candle is very easy.

let set overnight if possible. In a hurry? If you cool your candles in the refrigerator, they will quickly decompose. (Not the freezer, this will crack the candles.) Wait for the candle to set and leave the mold in the fridge for an hour. Tip: Water baths greatly speed up the candle’s cooling time (and also prevent leakage). Put in the fridge for 20 minutes. A firm pull on the wick (no jerking, the wick could tear), and removing the candle is very easy.

The best wax for latex rubber molds? A blend of ½-1% Vybar and paraffin wax. Avoid stearin. It rots these flexible molds. These candles do not release well when cold, hard and solid. Wait until the candle is solid but still warm. Rub dish soap on the outside of the mold and pull the mold back onto itself. Beeswax Mold Separation Tips: Beeswax molds come with special problems. The natural stickiness of this wax makes it impossible to easily remove the candle. Add paraffin wax up to 10% beeswax and you still get the candle from a 2 sided plastic mold. A higher percentage will require you to lubricate the molds to get good candle separation. For metal molds, use a candle release spray or lotion. These lubricants are available with or without silicone.

, use a candle release spray or lotion. These lubricants are available with or without silicone.

Avoid silicone sprays on plastic and acrylic molds. Silicone erodes plastic. Instead, use wax release alternatives made specifically for plastic molds.

Try vegetable cooking oils as a substitute. These natural release agents work equally well in steel or plastic molds and will not cause mold erosion. Using a soft, lint-free cloth, rub a thin layer on the inside of the mold (to avoid scratching). Place the mold upside down on newspaper. Drain off the excess oil. Rub it one last time and pour in your candle. I have only worked with paraffin and beeswax so far and cannot give you any tips on how to remove other types of wax better.

How to unmold a stuck candle Now I hear you saying “Yes but that doesn’t help me at all, my candle is ALREADY stuck, what do I do now?”

Pour boiling water over the outside of a metal mold for a few seconds and pull firmly on the candle’s wick. The candle should slide out fairly easily. Rarely will the candle be undamaged (but this is unlikely).

To solve a candle that doesn’t move at all, you have to put the mold, wax and everything in a metal bowl of boiling water and melt out the candle. Remove the soft candle after a few minutes. This candle mass can later be dried and melted down. At least you save the wax.

Allow the wax residue to cool in the water. Lift this layer of wax out of the water and discard it in the trash can. Never pour melted wax and hot water down the kitchen sink or drain.

Do the same for plastic and acrylic molds, but use hot, not boiling, water. Pour hot water over the mold and pull the softened candle out of the mold. Some plastic molds are heat resistant to 110°C (230°F), but many begin to warp above 82°C (179.6°F).

Consult the instructions that came with your molds to verify the correct temperatures.

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Going back to molds with beeswax presents unique problems. The natural stickiness of this wax makes it impossible to easily remove the candle. Add paraffin wax up to 10% beeswax and you still get the candle from a 2 sided plastic mold. Any higher percentage and you will need to lubricate the molds to get good candle separation. I’ve only worked with paraffin and beeswax and can’t give you any tips on how to remove other types of wax better. Now I can hear you say, “Yes, but that doesn’t help me at all, my candle is ALREADY stuck, what do I do now?” Pour boiling water over the outside of a metal mold for a few seconds and pull firmly on the candle’s wick. The candle should slide out fairly easily. Rarely will the candle be undamaged (but this is unlikely). To solve a candle that doesn’t move at all, you have to put the mold, wax and everything in a metal bowl of boiling water and melt the candle out. Remove the soft candle after a few minutes. This candle mass can later be dried and melted down. At least you save yourself the wax. Let the leftover wax cool in the water. Lift this layer of wax out of the water and discard it in the trash can. Toss or drain melted wax and hot water in the kitchen sink. For plastic and acrylic molds, do the same, but use hot, not boiling, water. Pour hot water over the mold and pull the softened candle out of the mold. Some plastic molds are heat resistant to 110°C (230°F), but many begin to warp at temperatures above 82°C (179.6°F). Consult the instructions that came with your molds to verify the correct temperatures. Back to Candle Making Tips Getting your handmade candles out of their molds can be a tricky and time-consuming task. How do you solve this annoying candle making problem? Successful mold release depends on the additives you mix into the waxes and the candle cooling process you follow after the candle has cured. Use these simple tips and tricks for different wax and mold types and solve those sticky mold problems once and for all.

It is very important to take the time to use a mold release agent on your mold or plug. It will add several hours to a project, but it’s worth it. A mold release agent, also known as a release agent, is used to allow parts to be easily removed from the original plug or mold. It also gives the part a durable surface finish and prevents both the part and mold from being damaged during production.

The two most commonly used mold release agents are: Partall Paste #2 (wax) and Partall #10 (PVA). When both are used together, it forms a great delivery system.

Partall Paste #2 (or other brands of wax) can be used on the mold. Rub it on evenly. Let it dry between coats, but don’t let it dry for too long as it will be harder to wax off. Apply the wax like you would wax a car. Multiple layers are recommended.

Next you can use PARTALL Film #10. It is a water/alcohol based polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) solution of water soluble film forming material. It is particularly recommended as a release agent to separate polyester or epoxy resins from various mold surfaces. PVA can be applied with a brush, but it is ideal to apply with a spray gun.

PVA must have at least three layers (more can be used if desired). The first layer should be a thin mist. The following layers should be heavier. Allow the PVA to dry completely between each layer.

PVA will not shrink or peel off corners or curved surfaces. The film releases easily and cleanly from the mold surface and releases from mold parts and spray equipment with water. It leaves a tack-free, durable surface.

PVA is not recommended for use with resins that contain water or emit water during cure (i.e. phenolic resins) or with automotive finishes as this can cause damage. PARTALL Paste #2 or wax is recommended for most mold surfaces before applying PVA.

We also sell some other mold release agents. One of them is Orca Shimmer Wax. Orca Shimmer is a highly effective carnauba based wax paste designed for the fiberglass former. It is a high quality mold release that gives a durable film that is abrasion resistant. Three to five coats of Orca Shimmer should be applied to clean or new molds first. 1. Apply Orca Shimmer to a small section (9 square feet or one square meter) at a time until the entire mold surface is covered. 2. Let the wax form a veil on the surface. 3. Wipe the surface with a clean cloth to remove excess wax. 4. Polish each layer to a high shine. After this first application, individual coats continue to give good release and high surface gloss. In high humidity conditions it may be necessary to give the mold a final wipe down with a clean, dry cloth to remove any haze developed by unreleased solvents. To avoid contamination, a clean cloth should always be used when applying and buffing this product.

Another release agent is SynLube 531. It is a silicone-free release agent that is excellent with polyurethane, epoxies, polyester resins and silicone rubber. This version is especially good with Por-a-Mold and Por-a-Kast.

Ease Release 2300 is a special silicone release agent. It is used to rejuvenate silicone molds for longer mold life. It can be transferred to the part surface. Surfaces had to be washed free before finishing. This release agent is also used as a mold release agent for epoxy, urethane and polyester parts.

Visit www.fiberglasswarehouse.com to see all of the products we offer. Save on computer

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Epoxy resin allows both artists and DIYers to create any shape they want. Especially if you want to use shapes you have created yourself, there are no limits to your imagination. But in order to be able to remove the hardened epoxy resin, the casting, from the mold, a release agent is required. We describe the advantages and disadvantages as well as the areas of application of the various epoxy resin release agents and how best to use them to grease your silicone mold.

What are release agents for epoxy resin needed for?

Release agents are generally understood to be substances that prevent different materials or objects from adhering or sticking to one another.

If you cast everyday and art objects with epoxy resin, you will need a release agent in addition to the resin, the hardener and the right mold. You should always grease the silicone mold you use. This will prevent the curing epoxy from sticking to the mold. This applies not only to smaller castings, but also to furniture where epoxy resin is embedded or incorporated into other materials such as wood.

When making molds from epoxy resin and fiberglass mats, it is also important to treat the negative mold with a suitable release agent for epoxy beforehand, otherwise the mold created cannot be released and all the effort was in vain.

To do this, the mold must be completely lined with the epoxy resin release agent; There must be no contact between the resin and the mold. If the resin sticks to the mold during the curing process, the mold will be damaged and the cast is usually unusable.

Release agents for epoxy resin are usually also suitable for polyester resin, sometimes also for polyurethane resin.

It should be noted that there is basically no ideal epoxy resin release agent for wood, as it is a porous, i.e. absorbent substrate. Such surfaces must be sealed with release agent before treatment, otherwise the release agent will be almost completely absorbed. Such materials include wood, plaster and foam. So when we talk about a good epoxy resin release agent for wood in the following section of our guide, we are assuming that the wood is sealed.

release spray

If you want to use a release agent for the epoxy resin casting, you can choose between a release spray or a release wax. Your choice depends on the type of application. An epoxy release spray is best for very small and highly detailed molds because it can be sprayed on rather than rubbed in like a release wax.

The spray works through a combination of wax and aerosols. The latter serve as a carrier material and apply the protective layer of wax to the mold. While the wax layer remains on the mold, the aerosols evaporate within a short time.

application areas

A release spray is particularly suitable for molds with many smaller edges and corners, as the spraying process optimally distributes the release agent everywhere. If you want to achieve a particularly even surface when pouring epoxy resin with the release agent, you can polish the spray afterwards; However, this is not a must.

application

First, the surface must be completely cleaned of all grease, oil and dirt residues. This not only applies to release sprays, but also to release waxes and PVA release lacquers. Oil and grease in particular prevent the release agent from adhering; it floats on a kind of oil slick and cannot develop its properties. After curing, the impression material will stick to the mold and the mold and cast may be damaged.

After thorough cleaning with a release spray, shake the can well. Now spray the mold as thinly as possible with the release spray. Be sure to cover all corners of the mold and spray from a distance of 20-30cm from the mold. Wait two to three minutes. If necessary, polish the release film with a lint-free, soft cloth.

New molds should be treated in this way several times, preferably three times. Allow the mold to flash off overnight after each spray.

Recommendation: Stoner mold release spray

The Stoner Release Spray with Wax is a mold release agent for various applications and materials. It facilitates the removal of the cast and offers the user easy and comfortable handling. The Stoner Release Spray has even more advantages:

Advantages It has an optimal release effect and ensures perfect demolding

It has an optimal release effect and ensures perfect demolding. It is also easy to handle for inexperienced craftsmen

It is easy to use, even for inexperienced craftsmen. The release spray is free of greenhouse gases and silicone

The release spray is free of greenhouse gases and silicone. It can be used for casting resin, polyurethane, PMMA and polyester resin

It can be used for casting resin, polyurethane, PMMA and polyester resin. It can be used for large areas as well as for small and detailed shapes

It can be used for large areas as well as for small and detailed forms It is particularly suitable for porous forms and is therefore the optimal epoxy resin release agent for wood; for this purpose, the release spray should be applied in several layers. Disadvantages The Stoner release spray is not suitable for separating silicone on silicone

We have a clear recommendation for the Stoner Release Spray, as it basically offers the user all the positive properties that are necessary to release an epoxy resin cast. A release wax or release vaseline can be used to separate silicone.

Stoner E-236 Epoxy Mold Release Agent Saves time – allows epoxy parts to be released from molds quickly and easily

Formulated to provide a high level of user and environmental safety

Contains no Class I or Class II ozone depleting substances

Colorless and non-staining View on Amazon

release wax

In contrast to the release spray, release wax is not available in a spray can, but as wax. It is usually liquid, so it can be easily removed from the container with a cloth. The container is simply opened and the wax poured onto the cloth held in front of it. You can then use it to grease your silicone mold. But the release wax is also suitable for surfaces other than silicone.

After the mold has been treated with the wax, a matt surface is created that can be polished with a lint-free cloth. In this way, the surface becomes glossy.

application areas

Release wax is ideal for treating large and flat surfaces. Smaller details are more likely to be sprayed with a release spray as it can be difficult to evenly work the release wax into smaller angles with a cloth.

If the mold has been used several hundred times, it usually has to be thoroughly cleaned once to remove all wax residue. This can be done with warm water and some steel wool.

application

The release wax is first shaken up well before use. This allows wax and solvent to recombine, which can separate after long periods of storage. After shaking, the wax is removed with a spatula and applied with a clean, lint-free cloth. Wait about five minutes and then buff the release wax with a clean cloth. New shapes require the application of a second coat. Here, too, one night should pass between each separating shift.

If you want a glossy surface, you should additionally treat the wax release layer with a PVA release varnish.

Recommendation: Orca Shimmer mold release wax

The Orca Shimmer Release Wax can also be used for all types of resin. It offers the user many advantages:

Advantages The release wax can be easily removed and the application is also very simple

It can be used not only as a release agent for epoxy resin, but also as a release agent for gel coat and top coat as well as polyester resin

The wax is extremely economical due to its high concentration

The epoxy release agent can be combined with PVA release varnishes, but these are not necessary if the release wax is well polished. Disadvantages The Orca Shimmer release wax is definitely a bit more expensive than products from other well-known manufacturers; However, this disadvantage is more than outweighed by the advantages

Release wax is not suitable for wood as it is highly absorbed by porous surfaces, however this can be remedied by using a suitable release varnish or sealer

The drying time is important when using the wax. This should be observed to prevent wax and resin from mixing. The resin should only be filled in when a tack-free film has formed in the mould.

Due to the simple application and the really enormous yield, we give Orca Shimmer release wax a crystal-clear recommendation!

PVA release varnish

PVA release lacquer is also used for better demoulding of castings and is sprayed onto the negative mold in a similar way to release spray. This creates a film-like film on the mold. The separating lacquer is based on polyvinyl alcohol and promises the formation of an optimal separating layer.

application areas

PVA release varnish is often used in combination with a release wax for epoxy resin. It serves as the last layer between the release wax and epoxy resin. It not only ensures excellent demoldability, but also a high-gloss surface. PVA does not need to be polished after application.

PVA release lacquer is also used to treat porous or sealed surfaces such as melamine resin pressed boards, plaster or wood.

application

The release coating for epoxy resin can be applied with various tools, either with a spray gun or with a sponge, brush or foam. It is best to do this across, i.e. first apply lengthways, then across and then lengthways again. Do not apply a new color in between. Make sure that the paint is applied thinly and evenly and then allow the mold to flash off for five to ten minutes.

After demolding the cast part, you can simply remove residues of the release coating with lukewarm water and a sponge.

Recommendation: Partall PVA release agent

Partall’s PVA Release Lacquer is the ideal epoxy resin release agent for wood, silicone and other materials. It offers the user a whole range of advantages:

It is not only suitable for epoxy and cast resin, but also for gelcoat and topcoat

Even hardened polyester resins can be demolded

The separating varnish is extremely economical as it is highly concentrated

The application is easy even for inexperienced craftsmen

A combination with release wax is possible

The release agent is suitable for producing high-gloss surfaces

We couldn’t find a single disadvantage with this product. It definitely keeps what the manufacturer promises: easy handling with high yield and perfect demolding of the cast parts. Partall’s release varnish is the perfect release agent for wood in combination with epoxy resin, but also for other types of resin.

PVA – PARTALL Film (PVA) Release Agent Partall Film #10 is a water/alcohol based polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) mold release agent that forms a barrier between parts and mold surfaces that are still setting (green or recently refurbished molds may be reactive).

Protects against mold growth with polyester and vinyl ester resins; also used with epoxy and urethane resins

PVA is most commonly applied over mold release wax, although some users have had success by putting wax over the PVA sheet (giving a second part cycle before replacing PVA). View on Amazon

Tips and tricks for easy demoulding of castings

There is no silver bullet to release a cast from the mold. The type of cutting depends heavily on the size of the tool used and the construction of the component.

Always loosen the edges of the casting first. This alone allows most components to be removed from the mold; simple components slip out when the mold is turned over.

If the release is not successful right away, you can help with demolding wedges. These plastic wedges are available in any well-established hardware store or on the Internet. They are also perfect for opening two-part molds.

If you have the opportunity, you can blow compressed air between the mold and the cured part. If the cast still doesn’t come off, try tapping the mold gently with a rubber mallet.