Horse Kicks When Picking Up Back Feet? The 25 Correct Answer

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Why won’t my horse let me pick up his back feet?

If your horse isn’t picking up his feet, the first thing to figure out is why. Reasons include lack of, or improper training, fear, pain or discomfort.

What does it mean when a horse kicks its back legs?

Horses may defend themselves by kicking when they feel another horse is getting too close to its food, its foal, a special herd mate, or if another horse is acting aggressively towards it. In the wild, horses use powerful kicks, often with both back legs at the same time, to ward off predators.

How do you pick a stubborn horse hooves?

RIGHT: Pinch or twist your horse’s chestnut just enough to make him notice and lift his foot in response. Once he does pick up his foot, immediately release the pressure and begin rubbing his leg again, so he relaxes and puts his foot on the ground.

What causes sacroiliac joint pain in horses?

There are three categories that cause horse sacroiliac pain: Hind limb trauma. A training or conditioning injury. Other hind limb lameness.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

You ride along and enjoy the time with your horse when it suddenly becomes unable to jump or trot or engage in any of its usual activities without reluctance.

They know they might be in pain, but what’s the culprit?

It could be a sacroiliac joint problem in the horse.

The sacroiliac joint in horses is a crucial joint that allows a horse to move. It is commonly violated and often confused with other problems. This can adversely affect their mobility and their ability to play a sport.

That’s why we’re here to break down everything you need to know about protecting your horse from a sacroiliac injury and how to go about treating it if your horse is already struggling with it.

Horse sacroiliac joint 101

Before we delve into the issues associated with a horse’s sacroiliac joint, it’s important to understand where the joint is located and why it’s so important.

Equine anatomy can be complex so it goes without saying that we are only here to give you an overview and any concerns you have about your horse’s sacroiliac joint pain should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Now that we’ve got that disclaimer out of the way, let’s get into this anatomy lesson!

via GIPHY

Anatomy of the equine sacroiliac joint

Like humans, the sacroiliac joint is the connection between the pelvis and the spine in a horse’s body. There are actually two joints here, one for each hind limb, allowing them to articulate in conjunction with the spine.

The sacroiliac joint acts as a motor for the horse, translating movement from the hind legs down the back into forward motion, allowing your horse to canter, run, jump and trot. These joints actually have a relatively small range of motion and are supported by strong ligaments to keep your horse stable.

The ligaments that support the horse’s sacroiliac joint are:

Ligamentum sacroiliaca dorsales Ligamentum sacroiliaca ventrales Ligamentum sacrotuberous

The diagram below shows the position of the horse’s sacroiliac joint.

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Sacroiliac horse symptoms

As your horse’s caregiver, you must be a symptom detective and always on the lookout for signs that your horse’s body is in distress. You need to keep track of changes in their behavior and their responses to training and touch.

And when it comes to sacroiliac pain in horses, there are a few telltale signs that they’re in pain at this key point.

Equine sacroiliac symptoms include:

Changing gears, like “bunny hopping”

Difficulty lifting the hind legs

Reluctance to advance or participate in usual activities

Reduced muscle mass in the hindquarters

“Hunter’s Bump” becomes more pronounced

muscle cramps

Bad attitude

Short step

If you notice one or more symptoms of sacroiliac joint in horses or there has been a sudden change in your horse’s behavior, be sure to pick up the phone and call the veterinarian so they can be addressed immediately.

Causes of sacroiliac pain in horses

If you could avoid causing your horse pain, you certainly would.

Therefore, it is important to know what causes sacroiliac pain in horses.

There are three categories that cause sacroiliac pain in horses:

Hindlimb trauma A training or conditioning injury Other hindlimb lameness

The first category, hind limb trauma, will present as sudden and acute. It is usually due to a slip or fall. Any trauma affecting the supporting ligaments can be painful and make it almost impossible for the horse to move. In some cases, the pelvic fracture can also result in damage to the sacroiliac joints as they are interconnected and rely on each other to function properly.

The second cause of injury and sacroiliac pain in horses is the result of a training injury or poor condition. Like humans, horses need to warm up cold muscles before beginning, get adequate rest, and avoid poor form during exercise. In this case, that means a good warm-up walk before starting training, going out to pasture, resting between training days, and allowing the horse to move ‘back to front’.

This is a term that describes a technique that focuses on gently channeling the horse’s energy forward from its hindquarters, rather than being a “front-to-back” rider constantly tugging on the reins. It would be tantamount to constantly driving with the handbrake on instead of taking your foot off the accelerator in time. Riding in this manner can cause unnecessary tension and stress in the sacroiliac joints, which can lead to pain and injury.

The last category to mention is pain related to another injury or condition of the hind legs, such as arthritis or an ankle ligament injury. When a lame horse experiences pain in one part of its hindquarters, it can often compensate or carry the weight differently to relieve the pressure elsewhere. This can lead to wear and tear injuries in the horse’s sacroiliac joint.

Overall, injuries and pain in the equine sacroiliac joints are common but treatable. The key to treating them is a quick response. If your horse has suffered trauma or isn’t acting like himself, be sure to call the vet.

Prevention of sacroiliac pain in horses

We don’t want our horse companions to suffer. Of course you want to prevent pain before it occurs.

When it comes to protecting the sacroiliac joint in horses, there are many ways to keep this workhorse joint (see what we did there?) in good working order.

Regardless of what you decide to do, you should consult your veterinarian to ensure your prevention plan is tailored to your horse’s individual needs.

Nutritional supplement for horse joints

Keeping a horse’s sacroiliac joint healthy is one of the best ways to prevent injury.

And as with many illnesses, health begins on the inside, at the source.

The sacroiliac joint is one of the most important joints in a horse’s body. It needs to be strong and have a lot of support from surrounding structures. Equine joint supplements can help you achieve both goals.

By providing your horse with ingredients that help build and stop cartilage breakdown, as well as reduce inflammation from the daily stresses on ligaments, equine muscles and joints, you can ensure his sacroiliac joint is supported and able to resist injury to protect if that happens.

A supplement for equine sacroiliac pain should:

Promote flexible, supple joints and reduce stiffness. Help protect collagen and connective tissue. Protect tissues in the joint

This may seem like a long list at first, but Integricare’s TRI-ACTA for horses ticks every one of those boxes and more.

With high-quality ingredients, including two types of glucosamine, TRI-ACTA provides horses with the support of being Health Canada approved and a Veterinary Health Product designation and a filler-free formula. That way, you can rest assured that your horse is getting the health boost it needs and none of what it isn’t getting.

Train properly

Maintaining a regular exercise schedule is another piece of the puzzle when it comes to preventing horse sacroiliac joint pain.

When your horse has strong internal support in the form of his muscles, he is less likely to injure his sacroiliac joint. Why? Their cores do the heavy lifting just like ours, and a stiff, tight hindquarters compensating for the lack of core strength can result in a minor injury that spirals out of control.

Ensuring that a horse’s topline and gluteal regions are strong and well defined is one way to protect against sacroiliac joint injury.

In terms of training, to achieve these goals you need to try techniques that specifically focus on stretching and strengthening the hindquarters and core.

Sacroiliac joint support training may include:

Use of lunging aids to strengthen the supporting muscles

Use of ground bars in training

Stretching exercises to improve mobility and release tension

Keep chopping uphill, backwards, on small inclines

Transition work under saddle (walk to trot, trot to canter)

Each of these exercises should be done in small doses and consistently. Making regular conditioning and topline training a part of your training routine is the best way to protect your horse from sacroiliac pain.

manage weight

The last tip we have for preventing sacroiliac pain in horses is to keep the pounds off the joints.

That old adage “hungry as a horse” must have come from somewhere! Horses can eat grass for 24 hours in just four hours. This is obviously far too much grass, and it can put your horse at risk of laminitis, especially if he eats too much juicy pasture grass.

Simply put, obesity is one of the biggest threats to healthy joints. It can lead to arthritis and other joint diseases. This spells trouble for your horse’s sacroiliac joint.

In combination with a good training plan, the right nutrition should help your horse to reduce its weight while maintaining all the important nutrients and components of its diet. Horses need a mix of carbohydrates, protein, fats, vitamins and minerals. They often eat the most carbohydrates, usually hay or grass.

If you’re trying to reduce your horse’s weight, there are a few things you can do to help him reach a target weight that will reduce the stress and pressure on his joints.

In the table below we have outlined some weight loss strategies to reduce sacroiliac pain in horses.

Weight loss strategy considerations Less grazing Choose a paddock with limited grass or controlled access

Spend less time in the pasture and more time in a grassless paddock. Change the approach to supplementary feeding. Consider the type and amount of supplemental food to be fed

As an alternative, offer bucket feeding or try soaking hay safely to reduce sugar levels

Divide the feed into several hay nets to keep your horse occupied

Allow him safe thermoregulation to activate the metabolic heat response. Increase his movement. Try a variety of exercises to keep your horse engaged

Offer both ridden and non-ridden exercises to target specific areas of your horse’s body

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One thing to keep in mind when trying to help your horse lose weight is to eat a reduced but balanced diet.

Guidelines state that you should not reduce your horse’s diet below 1.5% of its current body weight. This can put your horse at risk of developing other conditions due to a deficiency in their diet. If you feel you need to reduce a horse’s feed intake even further, consult a veterinarian first to avoid this scary situation.

Treatment and recovery of sacroiliac pain in horses

Treating sacroiliac pain in horses doesn’t have to be difficult.

There are several great treatment options to consider and depending on your horse’s individual needs, your veterinarian will help you decide which is the best solution.

One thing to keep in mind for horses with sacroiliac pain is the need to identify and treat these injuries early. Otherwise, you can end up with a more serious problem.

There is an “injury cycle” that often occurs with sacroiliac joint problems, in which there is a minor initial injury that people may not notice. The horse then has a severe muscle spasm to protect the joint, the pain and inflammation is reduced as a result, but the joint is stressed by the tight, abnormal hindquarters. This increases the risk of arthritis and inevitably leads to more pain. Talk to your vet about any changes in his performance and condition so he can do more thorough diagnostic work and stop sacroiliac pain in the horse.

Equine Sacroiliac Joint Injection

Sacroiliac joint injections provide your equine friend with targeted pain relief and are a great option for treating severe pain while using other techniques to help the joint heal.

Typically, an injection into the sacroiliac joint contains both steroids and hyaluronic acid to treat both pain and mobility issues. Usually, before completing the injections, equine veterinarians will administer a pain reliever along with a sedative to make your horse as comfortable as possible. To keep them comfortable following injections into the horse’s sacroiliac joint, the equine vet will likely also include phenylbutazone as part of the preoperative procedure.

Sometimes an injection in the left and right joint is required. In other cases, only one joint needs to be addressed at a time. Your vet will help determine what is needed and if more injections are needed.

Sacroiliac joint injections in horses tend to be most effective when combined with one or more other modalities such as rest, physical therapy, and nutritional supplements. Simply injecting your joint will not completely solve your problems. The root of the problem needs to be addressed as well, or you’ll be dealing with the same issues in no time.

Nutritional supplement for horse joints

Pain and inflammation are at the heart of many sacroiliac problems in horses. You need to address these at the source or you end up in the injury cycle we mentioned earlier.

One tool to add to your horse’s sacroiliac injury recovery plan that treats both pain and inflammation and improves cartilage and synovial fluid is an equine joint supplement.

And how is that possible you ask?

It’s all about the ingredients that the supplement contains.

A dietary supplement to aid in the healing of sacroiliac pain in horses should contain the ingredients listed in the table below.

Ingredient How It Helps Horses With Sacroiliac Pain Glucosamine Repairs damaged cartilage

Helps produce more cartilage Chondroitin Inhibits destructive enzymes that break down cartilage

Prevents further cartilage degradation MSM interferes with the inflammatory response by inhibiting a specific protein complex

Reduces pain and inflammation Hyaluronic Acid Improves the quality and supply of synovial fluid

Increases lubrication and mobility in the joint

As you can see, each ingredient plays a role in relieving painful sacroiliac horse symptoms.

But not all supplements are created equal. You need to find a supplement like TRI-ACTA HA from Integricare. that not only has the highest quality ingredients, but is easy to feed and won’t break the bank. TRI-ACTA HA is a maximum strength nutritional supplement available in powder form that allows you to add a small but therapeutic dose to your horse’s daily feed. This makes it more effective and means you get more bang for your buck from every serving than other options on the market.

alternative therapies

One of the most common treatments used alongside other modalities that we have listed here is equine physiotherapy.

Physio, like human medicine, is about both short-term and long-term healing goals. In the short term, pain relief and reduction of inflammation are the primary goals, as well as improving function and stability in this area. Over the long term, you want to focus on making sure that this acute injury doesn’t turn into an ongoing, chronic dysfunction.

Before considering physical therapy to treat equine sacroiliac pain, you’ll need to ask your veterinarian to rule out a fracture or other trauma to the pelvis to ensure you’re not making things worse for your equine pal.

Other alternative therapies for treating sacroiliac pain in horses include:

acupuncture

massage

heat and cold therapy

electrotherapy

“Taping” techniques to stabilize the pelvis

While it can be tempting to try these out for yourself and approach this the DIY way, you must consult your equine veterinarian before attempting any physical therapy or training at home. Also, they can help you connect with a professional practitioner and help answer any questions you may have about trying one therapy or another.

Rest

Although there is nothing groundbreaking about this treatment for sacroiliac symptoms in horses, rest is often the first thing a veterinarian will prescribe.

Whether your treatment plan includes any or all of the modalities mentioned here, rest is often the first step to recovery.

Rest helps reduce inflammation and stress on the joints and will likely need at least a week to resolve the issues at hand. Helping other treatments, such as injections into the sacroiliac joint in horses, can be helpful. The horse’s body needs time to recover, especially when it’s a competitive sport like jumping that places regular stress on the sacroiliac joint.

That doesn’t mean you should just leave your horse in the stable for a week. In fact, that can make things worse. Rather, you should focus on gentle exercises like walking by hand and driving them out to pasture after a few days of stall rest.

Frequently asked questions about sacroiliac horse problems

Any good horse owner’s focus is always on learning more about their equine friend, and asking questions can help you get to the root of your horse’s problem faster.

We’ve compiled some common questions about equine sacroiliac joint problems to give you the answers you need to get your horse comfortable as soon as possible.

What Causes Sacroiliac Joint Pain in Horses?

Sacroiliac pain in horses can be caused by a variety of different problems. Most commonly, this is due to the regular wear and tear on their bodies, particularly from training and competitions. It can also be caused by poor muscle definition and internal support, or when horses need to compensate for other lameness in their hindquarters. The ultimate cause of sacroiliac joint pain is trauma.

What are equine sacroiliac joint injections?

Injections into the horse’s sacroiliac joint are carried out specifically at the site of pain and inflammation in the sacroiliac joint. They are often a combination of anti-inflammatory drugs, steroids and hyaluronic acid. The goal of these injections is to quickly relieve pain and help the horse recover.

Begin by improving the horse’s sacroiliac pain

Reducing injury and pain in the sacroiliac joints in horses boils down to preventing injury, promoting a healthy diet and creating a balanced training and conditioning schedule to create strong hindquarters.

It’s also important to support the hard work you’re putting in on the outside with a horse joint supplement like TRI-ACTA on the inside. By feeding a supplement that contains ingredients like glucosamine, you can not only repair cartilage and reduce inflammation, but prevent it from deteriorating in the first place.

Consider it the perfect complement to your other preventative measures and be sure to consider TRI-ACTA HA if you have a horse recovering from a horse sacroiliac joint injury. The addition of Hyaluronic Acid to our regular strength formula helps keep your horse’s joints flexible and improves the viscosity of their synovial fluid.

TRI-ACTA HA for Horses Our maximal strength formula is perfect for horses that are aging, suffering from arthritis and stiffness, are in training and competition, or are under heavy workloads. LEARN MORE

There’s no doubt – now you have the knowledge you need to help your horse avoid painful sacroiliac joint injuries!

How often should I pick my horses hooves?

A horse that is being ridden on a regular basis should have its hooves picked and cleaned before and after each ride. Other horses should have their hooves picked daily, if possible, or at least a couple of times each week so any hoof problems are caught in the earliest stages.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

Why it is important to pick a horse’s hooves

Horse hooves tend to pick up gravel, dirt, and debris on a regular basis, especially when on the trail, in a paddock, or in the pasture. If the hooves are not picked, these pieces of gravel or debris can lead to discomfort, infection and lameness.

Special Tool Hoof Picking Hoof picking involves the use of a special tool to remove dirt, stones, nails, or debris caught in areas around the frog.

Also, hoof plucking helps a horse owner identify puncture wounds or other problems with a hoof early.

A horse that is ridden regularly should have its hooves trimmed and cleaned before and after each ride. For other horses, hooves should be picked daily or at least a few times a week if possible so that hoof problems are caught in the earliest stages.

Picking involves using a special tool to remove dirt, rocks, nails, or debris caught in the areas around the frog. A final wipe with a brush will remove any remaining dust or debris from the hoof.

Follow these 3 basic steps to thoroughly clean your horse’s hooves:

Lift the horse’s hoof so the underside is clearly visible. Stand near the horse’s left front leg, look behind you, and run your left hand down the horse’s leg toward the pastern. Some horses lift the hoof automatically, others need a little more physical effort. In this case, lean your left shoulder against the horse’s shoulder and encourage him to shift his weight to the opposite leg. Gently squeeze the back of the leg. With a little pressure, most horses will then lift the hoof so you can cradle the hoof in your hand. Keep the angle of the leg natural and don’t bend it to the side. To clean the inside of the hoof, take the pick in your right hand and, pointing the pick away from you, scrape out any dirt or dung with the tip of the pick, paying particular attention to the sole and frog. Clean the areas around the frog, but don’t scrape it. Look carefully for any debris, small rocks or objects that need to be removed. When picking, carefully inspect the hoof for holes, injuries, or signs of infection. Now it’s time to brush the hoof to remove any traces of dirt or manure. Once the left front hoof is picked and cleaned, move to the hind leg on the left and repeat picking, cleaning, observing, and brushing. Typically, the picking and cleaning rotation traditionally begins with the left front hoof, continues to the left hind hoof, then to the right hind hoof, and ends with the right front hoof. When working on the right side of the horse it is usually easiest to hold the hoof in the right hand and do the plucking and cleaning with the left hand.

In some cases, the horse may be reluctant to cooperate and not lift its hooves. The horse should be examined to ensure that it is healthy and free from pain in one or more legs.

If no physical problems are identified, the horse must be trained to lift and work the hooves. A farrier or trainer can help you work the horse so lifting the hooves becomes a natural part of the grooming and cleaning process.

How do you know if your horse is lame in hind legs?

Warning Signs of Hind Leg Problems
  1. A gait change.
  2. Flaccid tail.
  3. Reluctance to put weight on the injured leg.
  4. Frequent shifting of weight to the toe, heel, or outside part of the hoof.
  5. Swelling around a joint.
  6. Inability to stand.
  7. Wounds or deformed joints.
  8. Trouble stopping smoothly.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

Hind leg problems in horses

Could a hind leg problem cause lameness in your horse? The problems can affect horses of any age and can lead to permanent disabilities if not treated promptly.

Common problems with the hind legs

Hind leg problems can be caused by:

wounds and fractures. A cut, puncture, or broken bone can cause your horse to prefer a hind leg. If cuts and wounds are not treated promptly, infection can complicate your horse’s recovery. Although a quick visual examination of your horse’s hind legs will help you spot cuts and infected wounds, broken bones or puncture wounds may not be as obvious.

rockfall. Have you ever had foot pain after stepping on a lego or small toy? These injuries, known as stone chips, can also happen to your horse. You may see a red or purple spot on your horse’s hoof or notice it walking a little cautiously. Stone chips usually go away on their own within a few weeks.

Arthritis. Arthritis, also called degenerative joint disease, can be age-related or occur after an injury or infection. In horses, arthritis can cause pain, stiffness and limited range of motion, which can alter your horse’s gait.

laminitis. Although laminitis most commonly develops on the front feet, it can also affect the hind feet. Laminitis occurs when blood flow to the laminae that hold the coffin bone to the hoof wall is cut off. If laminitis is not diagnosed and treated soon after symptoms appear, permanent damage can occur.

sprains and strains. Exerting your horse from exercise can lead to muscle, ligament and tendon strains and sprains. Sprains or strains are more likely to occur when a horse changes speed abruptly or engages in an activity that involves sudden movements. Overgrown hooves can also increase the likelihood of a sprain or strain.

bursitis. Bursitis occurs due to inflammation in the fluid-filled sac that helps muscles and tendons move smoothly over the bones in a joint. The condition causes pain, swelling, and stiffness and can be the result of an injury, an infected puncture wound, a strain, or exercise stress.

pelvic injuries. Dislocations, fractures or ligament strains in your horse’s pelvis can also be responsible for hind leg lameness. The injuries can happen to any horse, although performance horses are at higher risk.

What are the symptoms of ulcers in horses?

Initial symptoms of stomach ulcers in horses result from the pain. Many times, signs of ulcers in horses include clenching and grinding of teeth, depression, unwillingness to train, lying down more, stress at feeding time, ear flinching, or stomping hooves during girthing.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

Clinical signs and response to treatment may indicate that your horse has ulcers, but a gastroscopy (gastroscopy) is the only way to confirm the diagnosis of gastric ulcers and assess their severity. There is no connection between the signs and the severity of ulcers. Some horses show very few signs but have severe ulcers, while others show many signs but have less severe ulcers.

In gastric scoping, an endoscope (a small camera) is passed through the horse’s nose to the stomach and the beginning of the small intestine to view the lining of the stomach. This requires the horse to be fasting so the stomach is empty and lightly sedated to make passing the camera easier.

Does hoof picking hurt the horse?

Because the horse shoes are attached directly to the hoof, many people are concerned that applying and removing their shoes will be painful for the animal. However, this is a completely pain-free process as the tough part of a horses’ hoof doesn’t contain any nerve endings.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

Whether you’re an experienced horse owner or often see horses riding near you, you’re probably familiar with the trotting sound that comes from a horse’s hooves.

This noise comes from the shoes horses wear, and the reason they wear them can vary depending on their health, activity level, and the environment in which they are kept.

If you are unsure if your horse needs shoes or how to care for them, read on to learn about hoof care for horses to keep their hooves healthy:

Why do horses have to wear shoes?

Horseshoes are essential for hooves that regularly come into contact with tough ground such as concrete or other rough surfaces. This is because their hooves can be damaged by uneven or hard ground, putting the animal at risk of standing on objects that damage their natural hooves.

What are horseshoes made of?

Typically, horseshoes are made of steel or aluminum and are attached to the horse’s hoof by nailing the horseshoe. These materials are sturdy and can hold their shape, but the type of horseshoe your horse needs depends largely on its breed.

Some horse breeds use different styles of shoeing on the front legs than on the hind legs. It is not uncommon for the hind legs to be fitted with a horseshoe, also known as a caulk, which includes additional steel materials to prevent excessive wear damage.

Do horseshoes harm horses?

Since the horseshoes attach directly to the hoof, many people worry that putting on and taking off the horseshoes could be painful for the animal.

However, this is a completely painless process as the hard part of a horse’s hoof contains no nerve endings. The animals show no signs of pain or aggression as the horse experiences a similar sensation as we do when our fingernails are clipped!

How often do horseshoes need to be replaced?

A horse’s natural hoof is also constantly contracting (much like our lungs!). So by making sure that the hooves are properly fitted and checking that they are the right size, you will prevent the hooves from becoming painful for your animal.

You may also be surprised to learn that a horse will grow a whole new hoof within a year, so it’s important to replace your horse’s hooves as they can grow out of them sooner than you think!

As you can see, shoes are essential for any horse that is regularly exposed to rough or hard floors. They don’t hurt to put them on, but leaving them off could cause injury and pain to your pet. We offer horse insurance to protect you from unexpected and expensive vet bills should the worst happen.

Why do horses hold one hoof up?

The most common cause of this behavior, especially in the forelimbs, is heel pain. However, other common foot lameness conditions like hoof abscess, bruises and other injuries to the rear of the limb also commonly cause horses to adopt this stance.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

What to do Assess your horse’s general health using the Whole Horse Exam (WHE), paying particular attention to rectal temperature and heart rate. Examine the foot for digital pulse and heat. Assess lameness while walking. Look for and feel for swelling in the heel and back of the pointing lower extremity.

Share your findings and concerns with your veterinarian. The severity of the problem usually depends on the level of lameness and pain.

What not to do Don’t assume that this posture is normal for your horse. Usually it results from pain in the limbs. Don’t force the horse to move forward if there is strong resistance.

Do horses kick for no reason?

Sometimes horses kick out of simple playfulness. You’ll often see horses frolicking in a field, galloping, bucking and kicking as they go. It’s a way to burn off steam and stretch their limbs. This type of kicking isn’t intended to cause harm but may do so by accident.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

Kicking is one of your horse’s strongest forms of communication. Just as flat ears or bared teeth send unmistakable messages, a kick – or even the threat of it – speaks volumes about a horse’s state of mind or physical well-being.

Horses kick to deliver a variety of different messages to their herdmates.

Of course, the sheer mechanical force of a horse’s kick underscores the urgent message it is about. Emergency room staff have compared the destructive potential of a horse kick to that of being struck by a small car moving at 20 miles per hour. A kick can break bones and traumatize soft tissue. In fact, medical journals document people going into cardiac arrest after being kicked in the chest. In addition, a horse can be seriously injured by being kicked; For example, a strong impact on a cinder block wall can break bones in the hoof.

So if you have a horse that kicks habitually, regularly, or even occasionally, it’s important to find out the reasons for the behavior. Some situations will force virtually every horse to thrash around – to protect itself or to relieve pain – but in other cases, kicking is a bad habit that needs to be addressed before anyone gets hurt.

In general, a kick delivers one message in six. In order to recognize who your horse is sending, you need to pay close attention to his body language, take stock of the circumstances that led to a kick, and identify factors that may be contributing to the behavior.

Message: “I feel threatened.”

At its most primal level, the horse kick is a defensive weapon. Horses in the wild can, and often do, fend off predators by kicking their hooves. This response is instinctive, so depending on the situation, you can observe it in even the calmest and most agreeable horses.

You recognize a rush of anxiety by what precedes it. A horse that is really scared does not kick immediately. First he will try to move away from the threat. If that doesn’t work, he’ll likely attempt to intimidate the threatening presence by covering his ears or raising his hind leg in preparation for a kick. Only when both escape and intimidation fail does the horse strike.

In my work as an animal behaviorist, I have experienced this again and again. Hooves are likely to fly when a horse is being pursued and cornered by an aggressive herdmate. Likewise, a horse may ultimately feel threatened enough to kick if forced to do something that it finds genuinely frightening, such as running into a dark trailer.

If your horse is kicking out of fear, the only way to solve the problem is to relieve his fear. This may require reorganizing your herd to reduce conflict and bullying. Even when a horse learns to avoid his tormentors, he may not be able to relax enough to graze or rest.

Also, watch out for anxiety kicks that occur during exercise. The remedy is usually a repetition of the basics, which help the horse to feel good again. A horse can’t learn when it’s scared, so you can’t just work it through. A compassionate, professional trainer can be very helpful.

Finally, there is another type of anxiety that is closely related to your behavior. If you surprise a horse – for example by walking behind it while it is dozing on cross ties – it may respond by striking without warning. In his mind he defends himself against a predator that has snuck up on him. That’s why one of the first lessons in horsemanship is to always tell a horse where you are so you don’t startle it.

Message: “I feel good.”

Sometimes horses step out of simple playfulness. You will often see horses frolicking in a field, galloping, bucking, and kicking as they go. It’s a way to let off steam and stretch your limbs. This style of kicking is not intended to cause harm, but it can inadvertently do so.

Playful kicking isn’t something you have to correct – or even can. Instead, focus on doing what you can to ensure your own safety and that of the other horses. If possible, avoid pairing a doddering pensioner with a wild boy who might try to start a game of chase.

And for your own safety, be extra careful when chasing down a boisterous horse. Lead him out to pasture, turn him toward you as you remove his halter or leash, and take a step backwards out of the gate when you let him go. Also, be vigilant as playful kicking can escalate into more dangerous, aggressive turnout behavior that you need to address.

Message: “I hurt.”

Some kicks are a reaction to pain. For example, we are all taught to recognize that kicking in the abdomen is a clinical sign of intestinal pain. Similarly, a horse with a sore back may kick sideways or “cow-kick” when the saddle is placed on its back or the girth is tightened.

Horses can also kick out of anger. If your horse kicks while brushing for no apparent reason, he may be telling you that he finds the experience uncomfortable or even painful. If you treat these kicks as a behavioral problem without examining what is causing them to do it, you are likely to make the situation worse by creating more negative associations.

You can recognize the burst of pain by observing what leads to the behavior and if it stops when stimuli are removed. A horse kicking in pain usually doesn’t rear up or threaten first; he just kicks when he’s uncomfortable. Once you relieve his pain, the kicks usually stop immediately. For example, if your horse kicks while grooming, the solution may be as simple as switching to a softer brush or terry towel.

It gets more complicated, of course, when alert horses start kicking when they expect pain – a horse with a sore back, for example, may strike when it sees you approaching with a saddle. In these cases, it may take some time for the kicking response to wear off, even after you’ve eliminated the uncomfortable stimuli. The horse must learn that the object that previously caused him pain no longer causes him discomfort.

Message: “I’m frustrated.”

We all know a horse that will bang against the stall wall when it thinks you’re not fast enough to deliver your grain. Horses that kick the inside of the trailer at their destination but have not yet been unloaded are likely to experience similar irritation. You can recognize a frustration kick by the body language that typically accompanies it. Head shaking, flat ears, falling forward, or even rearing up slightly are all signs of impatience. The horse doesn’t seem scared, just restless.

Frustration kicks can be dealt with in a number of ways. If the horse only spanks at meal time, simply feeding it first may solve the problem. If you are concerned that he will hurt himself, consider installing footboards. These structures, which resemble a two-foot-deep shelf running along the perimeter of the stall at knee height, prevent a kicking horse from making contact with the stall wall.

Horses are less likely to injure themselves when kicking the trailer because they are so close to the wall that they cannot build up enough strength. I’ve seen some people successfully use kick chains, which are suspended from a cuff that attaches just above the hock and swings into the horse’s leg with every kick. But I have also seen many horses stop kicking when the chains are on and resume the behavior as soon as the chains are removed. Hobbles have a similar disadvantage – they only work when turned on.

You can also choose to ignore frustrated kicks if the horse is not putting itself, another horse, or a person in danger. However, as with playful kicking, keep an eye on the situation to make sure it doesn’t escalate.

Message: “Back off.”

A horse that kicks while riding is usually responding to another horse that has gotten too close to its hindquarters. How close is too close depends on each horse’s personality. Some mares, particularly dominant ones, are very strict about their personal space and take offense if a horse approaches within 20 feet of their hindquarters. Another horse can only get restless if a herdmate pulls within a foot of its tail.

I know many horses who have never kicked at a person but will not hesitate to aim for a horse that comes on their butt on the trail or in the show ring. Tailgating kicks are typically mild “warning” kicks, but can still be powerful enough to break the bones of any rider who takes the brunt of the punch.

Because of this potential for injury, it is never a good idea to allow under-saddle kicking without correction, even if a kick seems warranted. If a horse you are riding kicks, immediately give him a sharp bang with a crop or the end of the reins to let him know this is unacceptable. However, the correction must be made immediately so that he makes the appropriate connection.

If your horse has ever kicked under saddle, you need to take extra precautions to protect others. First, tie a red ribbon around his tail to warn he’s a kicker. If you are riding in a group, also position yourself at the back.

Finally, stay away from crowded arenas as much as possible and pay special attention to where you are in relation to other riders so your horse is focused on you and your aids. It is your responsibility to protect the other drivers, not their responsibility to avoid you.

Message: “I’m the boss here.”

When a horse kicks to tell you they’re in charge, you have a serious problem. In the wild, kicking is used as a last resort to enforce the herd hierarchy necessary to maintain order and establish breeding rights. However, when a horse attempts to gain dominance over a human handler, it is a sign that larger training problems are afoot: the horse has eventually learned that intimidation is an effective way of dealing with people.

Bossy kickers are usually dominant mares or geldings. They pose and threaten before stepping with ears flat and “mean faces.” They’ll usually aim their hindquarters at you and raise a hoof before unleashing a kick. Unlike horses, who kick out of fear, they don’t try to get out of a situation before they kick; They respond to things they don’t like with threats. These horses can be aggressive in other ways, e.g. B. by pouncing on passers-by via their barn doors. They also tend to have little respect for the personal space of others, crowding handlers into a stall or charging past them while being led.

Typically, bossy kickers behave this way because it works for them. Eventually, they got what they wanted — usually being left alone — by threatening to kick someone, or actually kicking them. It doesn’t take long for that lesson to be learned. I once rescued a 3 year old filly who kicked when asked to do something she didn’t like. From that young age she had learned that she could get people to fall in line by letting her hooves fly.

Reforming an imperious kicker can be very difficult. If you have the time and inclination, you may want to revisit the basics of the training, possibly with the help of a professional trainer, to restore the basic rules of hierarchy and personal space. Unfortunately, for many older horses, kicking is such a ingrained resistance that this approach is unsuccessful.

Punishment is another way to let a bossy horse know that you won’t be intimidated by kicks. Some horses, particularly those testing the imperious kick for the first time, can be corrected with a pull on a lead thigh or a slap with the palm and a sharp word to remind them of their manners. Other horses will respect a whip tap on their hindquarters, but it needs to be delivered immediately to be effective, and you need to make sure you’re out of range.

In fact, I can’t stress enough how risky it is to penalize a kicker. It requires the ability to quickly and accurately read a horse’s body language and consistently deliver the appropriate punishment, nothing more, nothing less. Due to the accuracy and risks involved, I recommend that you entrust this task to a professional trainer.

Which brings me to the most troubling kicker: the aggressive horse that kicked for years to get his way. This horse can take any punishment simply as a challenge and respond with a more powerful, focused kick. This is a fight you cannot win and it puts you and other people in danger.

Personally, I will not own an aggressive kicker. It’s not worth the risk. If you decide to own a horse that will kick to demonstrate dominance, recognize the risk you are taking and do everything in your power to minimize it. This includes being very open and vocal about your horse’s tendencies, informing everyone who ever deals with him of his habits, and posting a clear and prominent warning on his stable door or pasture gate.

Kicking is good for horses. Not only is it a powerful weapon against predators, but it is also an effective form of communication. However, the injuries a kick can cause make it one of the most dangerous behaviors in a domesticated horse. So whenever a horse kicks, an investigation is needed to determine why – and if something needs to be done to prevent it from happening again.

Jennifer Williams has a master’s degree and a Ph.D. in Animal Behavior from Texas A&M University.

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What is it called when a horse kicks back?

Bucking is a movement performed by an animal in which it lowers its head and raises its hindquarters into the air while kicking out with the hind legs. It is most commonly seen in herbivores such as equines, cattle, deer, goats, and sheep.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

For information on cutting felled wood, see Logging Claws

A rodeo horse, stubborn.

Bucking is a movement performed by an animal in which it lowers its head and raises its hindquarters in the air while kicking its hind legs.[1] It is most commonly seen in herbivores such as horses, cattle, deer, goats and sheep. Most research on this behavior relates to horses and cattle. [2]

The intensity of bucking can vary from the animals raising both hind legs slightly to lowering their heads between their front legs, arching their backs, and kicking them out several times.[3] Originally it was predominantly an anti-predator and play behavior, but with domestication it is now also a behavioral problem in riding horses[2] and a desired behavior in stubborn bulls.[4] If strong, it can throw a rider so far off the seat that he falls off. In some cases, bucking can result in serious injury to both animal and rider.[2]

Reasons for stuttering[edit]

A loose horse may buck due to aggression or fear, as suggested by this horse’s very high step

Bucking is a normal behavior for a horse with an abundance of energy, and for a loose horse like this, it can simply be a playful behavior

While bucking is a potentially dangerous form of disobedience under saddle, it is a natural aspect of horse behavior. Bucking is used by animals for a number of reasons. In the wild, it can be used as a defense mechanism against predators such as mountain lions, which attack by jumping onto the animal’s back.[5] This behavior causes the animal to throw a predator off its back.[6] It can also be used as a game mechanic and territorial herd defense. [7]

In order for a human to ride a horse safely, the horse must be desensitized to the presence of something on its back and also learn not to kick both hind legs under saddle. However, since the instinct is always there, jerking can still occur for a variety of reasons:

Happiness, like when a horse gallops for joy or bucks at play.

General excitement, e.g. B. bucking horses in a crowded school ring or at the beginning of a ride in a crowd, z. B. Endurance.

The rider’s aids during riding or training cause the horse to become confused, frustrated or afraid, and the horse responds by bucking. [7]

The horse is “fresh” after standing for a long time and releases pent-up energy.

Pain or discomfort that may be due to an ill-fitting saddle or other piece of equipment, dental problems, or other medical problems. [5]

Provocation, usually due to an insect bite (usually on the hindquarters) that the horse is trying to get rid of, or in some cases in response to use of a whip on the flank or hindquarters. [3]

Untrained horses can buck instinctively the first few times they have a saddle on their back if they are not given proper ground training, and occasionally even with the right preparation. This is an instinctive defense mechanism.

After the horse has figured out that pushing off the rider means it doesn’t have to work, it does so to avoid being ridden.

Disobeying the rider’s aids when a horse doesn’t want what the rider is asking for. Sometimes this is due to the person’s poor riding style, but sometimes a horse will try to avoid a legitimate request by bucking.

Rodeo broncs and bucking bulls are used specifically as bucking stock, usually bred to be prone to bucking and encouraged to buck with the help of a “bucking strap” around the flank when a rider is on their back. [4]

Fear of loud and noisy machines such as cars, trucks, trains and planes. In response to the resulting tragic injuries, the American courts have consistently ruled that “the needs of a modern industrial society are often at odds with, and generally must outweigh, the delicate sensibilities of horses.”[8]

Ordinary riders must learn to ride out and correct a simple buck or two, as this is a relatively common form of disobedience. Also, a movement similar to bucking is sometimes required of a horse: horses leaping over an obstacle actually use much the same action as bucking when throwing themselves in the air, it is simply performed with foresight over a height and greater distance. The classic dressage movement known as the capriole is also very similar to the low buck a horse makes when it kicks out with both hind legs.

Stuttering solutions[edit]

Horse bucking as an act of disobedience or discomfort

Bucking in horses, particularly when induced by fear, pain, or excitement, is generally a minor disobedience unless it is severe enough to unseat the rider, at which point it is a dangerous act .[7] If bucking is a deliberate act by the horse and becomes an undesirable habit (e.g., a horse is learning to push off a rider to avoid working), the horse must be retrained by a professional trainer.

It is important to address the stuttering issue immediately. Even with good reason, it is a potentially dangerous disobedience that cannot be encouraged or continued.[2] However, a rider needs to be sure that it is not triggered by pain or poor riding. The horse’s turnout schedule should also be evaluated, as additional turnout will help a horse release additional energy before a rider mounts. In certain instances (e.g. at a show when horses cannot be exhibited for an extended period of time), lunging the horses for a short period of time can help calm excess energy, allowing the rider to mount and ride safely.[7]

If poor riding is the cause, extra attention and improvement in the rider’s balance and aids will help eliminate confusion and thus prevent the behavior. [7] When ill-fitting gear is the problem, re-fitting of the saddle causing the discomfort is required to not only stop the bucking, but also to prevent further injuries that can result from the ill-fitting.[9 ]

Usually, a horse will give a warning that it is about to buck by lowering its head, slowing or stopping, and rounding its back excessively. With such an advance warning, the driver can intervene early by encouraging forward movement or circling. With less warning, a rider can still prevent bucking by using a direct rein to pull the horse’s head sideways and up and turning the horse in a small circle. This is sometimes referred to as a “one-rein stop.” If a rider pulls the horse’s head up with both reins, the horse’s neck is stronger and the rider is likely to be thrown over the horse’s head. By turning the horse sideways, the rider has more leverage and a horse cannot buck as easily when turning. This can also be used to stop a horse that has started bucking. When the horse stops bucking, it must be encouraged to move forward—the forward motion makes it difficult for the horse to buck and discourages behavior.[7] The use of positive punishment, such as B. Deliberately putting the horse in a hollowed-out frame for a moment by intentionally raising the head and hollowing out the horse’s back can discourage or reduce the strength and heaviness of the buck. Raising the horse’s head or applying upward and sideways pressure to the horse’s head to create discomfort immediately after a buck has been shown to discourage bucking in the future.[5] Certain training aids, such as a gag bit, certain types of martingale, or, particularly in ponies, an overcheck can also discourage bucking.[7]

Bucking is sometimes observed in the early stages of horse training, often caused by the uncomfortable new feel of a tack that usually lingers after acclimatization.[5] If the behavior stems from frustration arising from inconsistent or absent reinforcement or punishment, then handler attention, such as a consistent reinforcement schedule, should be implemented.[5]

When poor riding is the case, extra attention and improvement in the rider’s balance and commands will help eliminate the confusion and thus prevent the behavior.[7] If an ill-fitting saddle is the problem, then readjusting the saddle causing the discomfort is necessary not only to stop the bucking, but also to prevent further injury that can result from the improper fit.[10 ]

Consequences of chronic bucking

Some horses are chosen for rodeos because of their habitual or strong bucking ability.

Horses that are chronic and consistent buckers cannot be safely ridden and unless they can be retrained they are unfit for any type of ordinary riding. There are few options for such an animal, and as a result, it can become undesirable for many buyers. Therefore humane euthanasia or sale for slaughter may be the fate of this animal.[11]

In some cases, a horse that cannot be retrained to not buck may be sold to a rodeo stock contractor. Ironically, such horses often fetch a high price in the world of bucking stocks because they are often easy to handle on the ground but are very clever and adept at bringing down riders, allowing a cowboy to score high when the rider can stay. At rodeo auctions like the Miles City Bucking Horse Sale, a spoiled riding horse, especially one with a strong build, will fetch a top price and a long rodeo career.

See also[edit]

Do horses kick their owners?

Do horses kick you when you’re behind them? Yes, horses sometimes kick when they are startled by someone approaching from their rear. Horses are prey animals and have survived thousands of years because of their ability to sense danger and respond appropriately.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

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I’ve been around horses most of my life and can attest that horses kick people. I’m often asked why this happens, but unless you see what happened it’s difficult to give an answer, but there are typical reasons.

Horses kick to defend themselves, but they also kick to show dominance, to release energy, or when frustrated. A horse’s kick is strong; it can break bones and will surely kill you.

Some people believe their horse is a chronic kicker and accept his bad behavior. But there is an underlying cause and if nothing is done to discipline the animal, the problem will get worse and someone is likely to get hurt.

Horses kick to dominate.

Horses are huge beasts, and they pack a mighty dangerous kick. If your horse has a habit of kicking, it needs to be addressed immediately. Getting your horse to stop this threatening pattern takes experience and persistence.

I think this behavior is too dangerous to fix by reading articles or watching youtube videos. It would be best if you had the help of a professional or someone with years of experience to work with your horse to keep him from kicking.

Horses are prey animals that live in herds. In every herd there is a pecking order. To set the group’s pecking order, they usually run and kick each other.

The horse that asserts itself and the other runs away is dominant over the other horse. A horse that can intimidate everyone else is the leader of the pack.

If a horse attacks or kicks you and other people, it has learned that it is the boss over people. This belief probably developed due to inferior training methods.

To solve the problem, the troubled horse must learn the correct pecking order in your yard; you are the leader Teaching your pet the appropriate hierarchy takes time and skill.

You must remain steadfast and impose your will on the animal. Imagine this horse being introduced into a new herd. It would probably attack and kick some horses.

The pack leader would see the behavior and put the new horse in its place, either driving the animal out or kicking it into submission. It wouldn’t take long for the horse to know its place in the pecking order.

Horses kick when they’re scared.

Horses that have experienced an unpleasant episode might step in response to stimuli that remind them of the event. They are afraid that something terrible might happen and are going on strike to prevent it from happening again.

The stimuli could involve a saddle, a dog, or a specific area of ​​their body. For example, a careless farrier injures a horse by driving a nail into the animal’s hoof.

From that point on, it fears the pain associated with someone lifting its foot, so it kicks to stop the action. The animal must learn to trust again and be desensitized to the fear-triggering stimuli. Again, this is not a lesson for a beginner to teach.

Working with frightened horses has real and serious consequences. I urge you to bring in an experienced rider to help you.

Horses kick to blow off energy.

It is common to see a few young horses running and kicking up their heels on cool mornings. Running and kicking in the air is their way of playing and venting energy.

When you take a horse out to pasture, you often notice that the animal is excited. If this happens, try to calm your horse down and let him turn to you before letting go.

I’ve seen playful horses throwing up their hind paws and nearly kicking someone in the head. Be safe and teach your horse proper manners. He should stand still before you release him from the lead rope.

Learning manners takes time, but it will prevent injury to you and possibly your horse in the long run. When a horse is allowed to be disrespectful, its behavior becomes worse and more dangerous.

Kick horses to send a message.

Horses communicate with members of their herd in a variety of ways. They signal with their ears, mouth, and body language. But their most impressive means of communication can be a stiff kick.

Please get me out!

We had a horse kick the wall of the trailer when left in the trailer longer than necessary. Interpreting his message wasn’t much of a challenge: I’ve been cooped up long enough and the trailer is paused, so get me out now.

Trailers are an unnatural environment for horses. Remember that horses are prey animals, so they like open pastures and the ability to see approaching predators. The trailer is dark and cramped.

However, horses can be taught to be comfortable in a trailer and even learn to enjoy riding in a trailer.

I want something to eat!

Our horse also kicked the stable wall when we were feeding other horses. This message was also easy to understand: hurry up, I’m hungry.

You don’t want a horse kicking the stable walls, mainly because it could injure its legs, ankles or feet. Hopefully they just throw a light, playful message and don’t bang out of the wall.

I suggest not responding to the animal’s kicking, not rushing down the aisle and feeding the animal. If the kicking is harmless, ignore it, and if it sees the message isn’t getting the response it wants, hopefully the behavior will stop.

Barn wall kicking may also be a stress-relieving behavior associated with barn boredom, similar to barn bucking, weaving, and excessive barn walking.

you’re getting too close

If you ride a lot, you’ll see horses kick when they feel others are getting too close. Some horses will twist and bite as well. This activity should be corrected immediately as it is dangerous not only for the following horse but also for its rider.

Once when we were out with a large group of riders in Bogue Chitto National Park one horse kicked another, it felt like it was interfering while we were in single file and on a ridge. The kick startled the horse and it nearly fell into a deep ravine.

If your horse kicks others, grab the reins, pull hard sideways, and kick your animal. Give him a little training and then return to the group. Don’t let the horse get away with being bad.

A kick from a horse can kill you.

Horse kicks can and do kill people. I knew a young racer who was kicked while cleaning her horse’s stable and died. The animal had no kicks in history.

This wasn’t the only case I know of where someone was killed by a horse kick. I was also told of another local who died from a kick to the head while working in a round pen with a green horse.

Death by horse kicking is not speculative; it happens. Because of this, I encourage you not to fix habitual kickers without experienced help. One wrong move and it could be fatal.

Horses have exceptional power in their hindquarters, and when the power is unleashed in a kick it is deadly.

How do you stop a horse from kicking?

Dominate kicking

Most horses kick to dominate the target of their kick. To stop this type of kicking, you must take your lead. This means that you have to work the horse until it fits.

Correcting a horse that has been in the dominant role for a long time is challenging and requires time and expertise to remedy. It would be best if you do a lot of preliminary work.

Have the animal follow your commands by working on a lunge first in one direction and then in the opposite direction. Teach the horse to stand still and tie himself to the ground. Use Hobbles on your horse.

I wrote an article on using Hobbles which you can read here and there is also an excellent training video you can watch. There are some exercises that Clinton Anderson teaches that you can watch on YouTube.

If you’ve never seen Clinton Anderson videos, I suggest you take some time and watch a few. He has an exceptional way of working with problem horses and he explains his thinking really well.

A horse that kicks is extremely dangerous if you don’t intend to fix the problem of getting rid of the horse. If the animal does not willingly submit to human dominance, it is undertrained and poses a risk to anyone who comes into contact with it.

How do you know if a horse is about to kick?

Know your horse and don’t ignore any warning signs that he’s getting angry. It will communicate before pedaling. They invariably let you know their opinion; you have to be smart enough to understand it.

Unfamiliar horses will usually approach each other and communicate with their bodies to establish dominance. The one with a more authoritative or aggressive presence is dominant.

When neither convinces the other of their superior authority, ear-punching and biting and kicking begin. If a horse wags or stamps its tail at me, or comes toward me uninvited, I’m on alert.

Before kicking, horses typically lay their ears flat on their heads, flick their tails, or stomp their feet. You need to understand the situation and what is going on between you and the horse.

Most horses kick only after sending you messages that they feel clearly state their intent, and you ignore it. A good example is a horse that goes into its comfort zone, raises its head, flattens its ears, and stomps on the ground.

For the animal, they clearly warned you to walk away or they will move you. Your response should be to immediately walk up to the horse and move it out of your space. If you’re not careful, this horse is ready to express his dominance by kicking you out of his newly acquired space.

How to avoid being kicked by a horse.

Teaching your horse respect and good manners is the best way to avoid being kicked by a horse. When leading a horse into a pasture to get free, make the animal stand still, then remove the halter and stand back.

Playful horses become agitated when being driven out and often throw their hind legs high in the air. If his feet hit you, he can cause serious injury. When approaching a horse, always let it know so as not to startle it.

It’s best to greet a horse from the side and walk at a 45-degree angle to their shoulder. If you intend to go to the opposite passage, the rear of the animal, put your hand on his hip.

Learning how horses communicate is also important to avoid being kicked by a horse. Watch out for warning signs, flat ears, stomping, and swishing tails.

Be dominant over your animals and your horse will be less likely to kick you.

Do horses kick you when you’re behind them?

Yes, horses sometimes kick out when startled by someone approaching from behind. Horses are prey animals and have survived for thousands of years due to their ability to recognize danger and respond appropriately.

Horses have excellent peripheral vision and can see almost 360 degrees. However, they have a blind spot right behind them. If a person approaches a horse from behind, they won’t see or smell you, so they’ll think you’re a predator and might kick.

Their instincts, when something enters their blind spot without warning, are to slam, slam, or slam and slam. To avoid this, always approach horses from the side or the front and let them know you’re coming within their range.

If you approach the horse from behind, give the horse a loud warning to let it know someone is coming.

Conclusion

Horses kick to dominate others. You have to take control of your animal and make it pay attention to you and follow your instructions. Your horse needs to understand that you are in control.

Teach your horse to respect you and have manners. This doesn’t mean you have to be rough or brutal, but rather firm and gentle. Do not let the animal enter your space or touch you uninvited.

You don’t bend to his will, you bend it to yours, not giving the horse the slightest hint that you’re not in charge. You can do this with your voice, a firm jab, and by swinging a whip.

The whip is not used to hit the animal, but to swing and slam the ground to force the animal to move back or in a direction you want it to go. Your dominance must be absolute.

A solid understanding of the herd behavior of horses is essential when training horses. It is a hierarchical system with only one boss. You’re doing the horse a disservice by making it think it’s in charge sometimes. Your behavior confuses the animal.

Your expression of submission may inadvertently signal him that a kick is warranted. Proper behavior and proper training can save you or someone else’s life, so take horse-kicking seriously.

Horses compete for reasons other than dominance, e.g. B. when they are playful or feeling frustrated. These are common types of kicks, but aren’t usually a problem unless your horse kicks and injures himself frequently.

Horse kicks have a lot of power and can cause serious damage and even death if they hit a person in a vulnerable spot. Always use caution and precautions around large animals.

Remember these basic things about horses, they have a herd mentality, they are prey animals and each one is an individual. We can generalize, but every horse is unique.

But if you take the time to learn about horses, rely on the experienced rider, and respect the animal, you can teach almost any horse manners and stop kicking.

Below is a YouTube video compilation of horse kicks.

Related articles:

Teaching a mustang or horse that kicks to pick up back feet

Teaching a mustang or horse that kicks to pick up back feet
Teaching a mustang or horse that kicks to pick up back feet


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Horse kicks when trying to pick back feet!?

Lots of horses are fairly tight with their back feet, they pick them up high and fast and do not relax. Keep in mind that when you pick up a …

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Problems with picking up the feet – Thinking Horse

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How to Correct a Kicking Horse Habit | Downunder

After hustling Blue’s feet, Clinton straight back to rubbing and picking up the gelding’s hind legs. Anytime Blue misbehaves, Clinton repeats the process.

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Training Your Horse to Pick Up His Feet

My horse really doesn’t like picking up his hind paws. What can I do to make it easier to choose his hooves?

If your horse won’t pick up his hooves, the first thing you need to do is figure out why. The most common reasons I see when working with horses are lack of or improper training, fear, pain or discomfort.

It is important to remember that horses, as prey/flight animals, are naturally concerned if their feet are restrained in any way. Therefore, all training requires patience and empathy, which builds trust and makes the horse feel safe.

If your horse used to pick up his hind paws willingly and not lifting them easily is a change in behavior, it’s possible he’s had a recent negative or painful experience. Or lifting your feet has become uncomfortable or painful due to joint, muscle, or foot pain. If this is the case, before you begin retraining your horse to pick up its hooves, eliminate any possible sources of pain or discomfort.

With any training, patience and consistency are the keys to long-term success and building a positive partnership with your horse. Avoid looking for quick fixes or using aversive methods. Instead, create these basics:

1. Safety and comfort. Both you and your horse need to feel calm. Work with him in a place where he is relaxed so he can stand still and you won’t be distracted.

When tying your horse, use a quick release buckle or knot and let it stand (poll height at withers).

2. balance. To lift a foot easily, your horse must be balanced, his weight evenly distributed on all four feet, his shoulders and hips aligned. Practice this pose every time you brush him. Feel free to restore that level, balanced framework whenever he changes it. Encourage him to lower his neck without force (no pulling or pushing) by gently rocking his head from side to side (to loosen his poll) with a slight downward pressure on the transverse bands, lead rope, or directly on the hooks of his halter .

If your horse is very anxious or excited, he may not be able to maintain this posture for more than a few seconds.

3. Comfort with touch. Watch for signs of tension as you gently stroke your horse all over his body. Big signs are ear pinching, air biting, pinched or swishing tail, head high, head bobbing up and down rapidly, threat of kicking. More subtle signs include holding your breath, not blinking, a tight mouth, tight muscles, and moving away from you. As soon as you notice any of these signs, stop touching him, encourage him to get back into a calm frame, and then start gently petting him again where he feels most comfortable slowing down moved to a new area. Whenever there are signs of tension, return to where he feels most comfortable.

handling the foot

Instead of thinking about “picking up” your horse’s foot, ask him to lift it so you can then support it. He gives you the foot instead of you taking it.

Stand next to your horse (facing his tail) at a slight angle to him so that you are neither directly nor perpendicular to him. Place your next hand on top of his leg, and then gently slide it down the back of his leg and inward until your hand is at his ankle end. Apply even, light pressure. No grabbing.

As your hand moves down his leg, bend your knees and balance over both feet with a little more weight on your back foot. This posture protects your back from strain, allows you to dodge quickly if necessary, and avoids pulling your leg.

If your horse doesn’t shift his weight off his hoof when your hand is on his pastern, use the fingernails of the same hand to gently scrape up the inside of the cannon leg.

Don’t try to lift his foot. Wait for him to lift his foot on his own. It may just be a weight shift at first. Reward this effort by letting go of his leg and offering him a scratch or a treat.

Repeat several times if necessary. If your horse still doesn’t shift his weight or lift his foot, gently rock your shoulder into his top leg – rock back and forth.

When your horse lifts his hoof, hold and support the pastern and hoof with both hands. Don’t try to lift his leg. Simply prop it up about an inch off the ground and maintain the natural alignment of the leg to avoid stressing the joints.

After a second or two, lower your foot and gently place it on the floor. Do not drop it. Reward your horse.

Gradually increase the height and time you hold the hoof up, paying attention to your horse’s comfort.

Short and frequent training sessions are most effective (e.g. two or three five-minute sessions spread over a day). Don’t rush the process or skip any steps. Remember that patience, empathy and consistency are the keys to long-term behavior change and building a positive partnership with your horse.

As a clinician, riding trainer, equine trainer, and certified professional trainer and author, Anne Gage focuses on the mental and physical aspects of horse and rider so you can be calm, confident, and connected—together. Visit ConfidenceHorsemanship.com to learn more.

Why Horses Kick and What to Do About It

A horse that kicks can be dangerous. Even if your horse just kicks at a biting fly and you accidentally get in the way, you could get hurt. Some horses develop a bad habit of kicking and can be a threat on the ground or when riding or driving.

Why horses kick

Horses kick for a variety of reasons. As mentioned above, a horse may kick around its legs and abdomen after biting flies. A horse kicks its stomach when it is colic. They may kick or stomp if something like a prickly weed is tickling their legs or stomach. Usually these aren’t really powerful kicks – after all, they could further injure themselves if the intention was to relieve the discomfort.

Horses often compete in the pasture. When playing, these will not be powerful kicks, and they will rarely bond with another horse. This may simply be a display of elation, often seen as the horse gallops and bucks to burn off energy.

defense

Horses also kick to defend themselves, and these kicks are often powerful and aimed. Horses may defend themselves by kicking if they feel another horse is getting too close to their feed, their foal, or a particular herdmate, or if another horse is acting aggressively towards them. In the wild, horses use powerful kicks, often with both hind legs at once, to ward off predators. A mare can kick a stallion if he is not breedable.

This defensive instinct may explain why some horses will lash out when alerted—for example, when a person, dog, or other animal “appears” behind the horse. Or if an item of equipment comes loose and drags behind or beside the horse, it can respond with kicks. A horse being trained to pull may kick the equipage unless introduced slowly and allowed to become accustomed to the sight and sound of a horse-drawn vehicle.

When kicking becomes a problem

Kicking while being handled, ridden, or driven can become a dangerous habit or vice. Eventually the horse learned that kicking is the best strategy to get rid of something it doesn’t like. It then becomes a habit that the rider, handler or driver must always keep in mind. Some horses become nervous when another horse is being ridden too close behind them and may kick to warn the other horse away. This causes a problem when the horse is being ridden in a group or in a crowded area such as at a horse show. Both the horse and the rider (and the spectators) are then in danger of being injured. I know of instances where one horse has kicked after another and the rider has taken the brunt of the blow.

Some horses don’t like dogs, cats or ponies and will offer to kick them if they get too close. Horses that have been injured while saddling or quickly buckling up the girth often step into the cow in anticipation of being pinched. My daughter’s nose was broken in one such incident. When she bent to reach under the horse to strap it in, the young horse responded with cow kicks, hitting her in the face.

Some horses step out defiantly. That’s a sign of disrespect. These kicks are aimed at you, but the horse knows they are out of range to hit you. This often happens when lunging or working in a round pen. Some horses kick the walls of their stalls when they are bored or impatient.

How to deal with a problem kicker

If your horse seems to be a habitual kicker, there are a few things you can do. When out, tie a red ribbon around the tail to warn other people that the horse has been known to kick. If riding in a group, ride at the end of the pack and make sure others are aware of his habit. Teach your horse to respond to leg aids. A horse that is moving forward is less likely to step out. In a situation where another horse is getting too close, you can swing your horse’s hindquarters to one side or the other so that even if your horse kicks out, it can’t hit its target.

Handling a kicking horse requires special care. Any time your horse is in public, he should wear a red ribbon. Anyone who has to work around the horse should be aware of the horse’s habit. You and anyone else who needs to get close to your horse must stay out of reach of those hind legs. If you are in a public place like a horse show or county fair, you need to position your horse away from foot traffic and other horses.

Learn to pay attention to body language

Most horses will warn you with their body language before they lash out. So, not only do you need to know what situations can trigger a kick, but you also need to understand the ear, head, and body posture that can occur before a kick occurs. Whether the horse is treading cautiously or being defiant, you need to recognize the signs of an imminent kick and give the horse something else to think about.

You may be able to reduce the vice by desensitizing the horse. If he seems scared and lashes out at a particular thing, you need to work gradually to get the horse used to that thing. If there are cow kicks when saddling, you must consistently be gentle and slow in the process. If the horse habitually kicks others in the field, it may need to be separated if it injures the others.

kicking chains

One way to deal with a kicker is to “kick chains”. A short length of chain is strapped to each hind fetlock. This is based on the theory that when the horse kicks, it will feel the chain on its own legs and will likely be discouraged from kicking. A lot can go wrong when pedaling chains. If it frightens the horse, it can make the problem worse, and putting on a gaiter or wrap afterwards can become an ordeal. Certainly the horse can react violently the first time you wear it. Some horses get used to it, and it may even become ineffective. Or the horse may not kick when the chains are on, but kicking may remain a problem when they are off. The chains could snag on a horseshoe or wire fence (unlikely, but possible). Do not use kick chains when riding. If you decide to kick chains, use extreme caution.

How to Pick Up a Horse’s Hooves

Q I bought an old gelding a few months ago and I have a hard time picking up his feet. I’m sure he was trained to do it at some point, but he makes it a real chore for me, let alone the farrier, every time I try to clean his hooves. How can I overcome this resistance to being more willing to deal with his feet?

Rub your horse’s leg while he’s standing on the ground to indicate he can relax and stand still with all four legs.

Janet Farrow, New Hampshire

A The average horse weighs 1,200 pounds; that’s 300 pounds per foot. Instead of trying to pick up 300 pounds, teach your horse to pick up his hooves for you, using your horse’s natural tendency to seek relief. Repeat the steps I outline here a few times a day and your horse will start lifting his feet for you instead of you trying to wrestle with his resistance. Make sure to vary your routine by changing which feet you start and end with each time.

The front feet

Start with a positive interaction. With the leash in your left hand (or with the horse securely tied), approach your horse’s shoulder quietly. Bend down to rub his forearm and lower leg to indicate to him to relax and just stand there with all four feet on the floor. Delay this pleasant massage a bit so he realizes you’ve stopped.

Then go to the foot-raise signal (the “stimulus”). Do this by squeezing or twisting your horse’s chestnut (the hoof-like growth on the inside of his forearm). He will be just uncomfortable enough to make him lift his foot. Just as he does, rub his leg again as a reward.

LEFT: Hesitate briefly to let your horse know you’ve stopped rubbing. RIGHT: Pinch or twist your horse’s chestnut just enough for him to notice and lift his foot in response. As soon as he lifts his foot, immediately release the pressure and start rubbing his leg again so he relaxes and puts his foot on the floor.

Repeat this process over and over: Rubbing, hesitating, stimulating, and then rubbing again as soon as your horse lifts a hoof.

Pretty soon, your horse will start getting what you’re looking for. “If I raise my foot when she hesitates, she doesn’t annoy me by twisting my chestnut. I just have to take the pressure off my foot when she stops rubbing.”

Repeat the same process on the right front leg.

The hind feet

You will follow a similar process when working on your horse’s hind feet. Proceed calmly and then bend down and rub your horse’s leg. Hesitate a little before continuing with the stimulus.

LEFT: On the hind leg, start rubbing his leg again, and then apply pressure to the bursa at the site of his ankle, as I’m doing here. RIGHT: As soon as he lifts his foot, release the pressure and start rubbing until he puts his foot on the floor.

On the hind leg, squeeze his bursa at the cap of his hock. If you’re having trouble finding it, stretch your own arm and find this little sack at the tip of your elbow; that’s how it feels on his ankle. If you apply pressure to this area your horse should lift its foot, at which point you will release the pressure and return to rubbing. You can also use its coronet as a hindfoot stimulus.

The key here is that pressure motivates and teaches release. After a few reps with correctly timed releases, your horse will sit down to avoid the pressure should he take the load off his hoof if you hesitate after rubbing.

A word of caution: horses that kick

Horses will hit out of fear or dominance. The best way to solve this problem is to teach him that treating his legs is no big deal. Massage your horse’s legs, hose them down after a hard lesson, wrap them carefully, etc. You may have to teach your horse to tolerate it with lots of repetition at first, but he will learn to enjoy it. n

Pat Parelli and his wife Linda are the founders of Parelli Natural Horsemanship and present significant seminars and demos around the world. Learn more about their philosophy and check out their presentation schedule at parelli.com.

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