Hot Tub Pipe Sealant? The 68 Latest Answer

Threads are a remarkably efficient mechanical device, ideal for joining tubing. Depending on the material, they can safely transport all types of liquids and gases while withstanding extreme environments and high pressures.

However, threads can be prone to wear. One cause could be expansion and contraction, a cycle that occurs when pipes freeze and thaw. Threads can wear out due to pressure changes or vibration. Any of these conditions can cause a leak. In a water main, that can mean thousands of dollars in flood damage. A leak in a gas line can have life-threatening consequences.

Instead of replacing entire sections of pipe, you can seal the thread with a range of products. As a preventative measure or as a repair, apply sealant to prevent further leaks. In many cases, pipe thread seals offer a quick and comparatively inexpensive solution. The list below shows the best pipe thread sealant for a range of applications.

What to consider when choosing the best pipe thread sealant

The goal is to prevent leaks, but the ways to achieve this can vary widely. The best pipe thread sealant for one material is sometimes not suitable for another. Various products cannot withstand the pressures or temperatures encountered in some situations. The following product features and purchasing considerations can help you decide which pipe thread sealant to purchase.

nature and suitability

Pipe thread sealants can be roughly divided into three types: PTFE tapes, pipe lubricants, and anaerobic resins.

PTFE is the abbreviation for polytetrafluoroethylene, a synthetic polymer. It’s commonly known as Teflon, although technically it’s a trade name. PTFE tape is highly flexible and is easily applied to all types of metal pipe threads. There are variants for air, water and gas lines. Telfon is not normally recommended for PVC as it smears the threads. This isn’t a problem with many materials, but it can make PVC threads too “slippery” which can lead to damage from over-tightening.

Pipe paste, also known as pipe joint compound, is a thick, spreadable paste that is often compared to putty. It is the most versatile pipe thread sealant and highly effective in most situations. Many are referred to as soft set compounds. They don’t fully set, so they can accommodate some amount of movement or pressure changes.

Pipe dope is generally the choice of pros; Because of its effectiveness on the various types of copper tubing used for water and plastics for drains, you’ll find it in most plumber’s tool kits. However, it’s more expensive than PTFE tape and not quite as easy to use, and most are solvent-based formulas.

Anaerobic resins do not require any solvents for curing, but react in the absence of air from the thread. The resin has properties similar to plastics, so they fill voids well and won’t shrink or crack. They also seal well in the event of movement or vibration.

However, these sealing resins require the presence of metal ions to cure, so they do not typically work on plastic pipe threads. They can also take up to 24 hours to seal properly. Anaerobic resins are a price hike compared to pipe dope, making them the most expensive option. In general, resin products are best suited for specialty applications rather than general use around the home and garden.

Note: Very few pipe thread sealants are suitable for pure oxygen. Chemical reactions can cause fire or explosion. Any repair to oxygen fittings should be performed by a suitably qualified professional.

pipe material

In short, pipe thread sealants made from PTFE and anaerobic resin work well on metal pipe, and pipe lubricant can seal almost any pipe material. However, it is important to check the material suitability in detail. Metal tubing can include copper, brass, aluminum, galvanized steel, stainless steel, and iron. Plastics include ABS, Cycolac, Polyethylene, PVC, CPVC and, on rare occasions, reinforced fiberglass.

While some of the best pipe thread sealants are versatile, not all types work with all pipe materials. Failure to verify that a sealant can work effectively with a particular pipe material can result in additional leaks that require further remedial work.

temperature

It is important to ensure that the pipe thread sealant will withstand the prevailing environmental conditions. In most cases, the seal should be able to withstand extreme temperatures without freezing or cracking.

PTFE tape seems like a simple product, but it is surprisingly tough. General-purpose tape that is white can often withstand temperatures from minus 212 degrees to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Bands for gas that are yellow have a similar ceiling, but some can handle cold as low as minus 450 degrees.

Cane dope and anaerobic resins don’t have quite the same flexibility when it comes to heat and cold. Generally, they tolerate temperatures from around minus 50 degrees to 300 or 400 degrees Fahrenheit. This is sufficient for many applications, but limits outdoor use in some areas.

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Most DIYers may never need to worry about high pressure leaks. Natural gas runs between ⅓ and ¼ pounds per square inch (psi), and while a water leak can look dramatic, household water pressure is unlikely to exceed 80 psi.

However, in commercial installations, the pressures can be much higher and the best pipe thread sealant for these environments must be able to handle it. The molecular structure of gases and liquids requires the specification of different pressure limits. For example, a tube solution that can withstand 10,000 psi of liquid pressure is only rated for around 3,000 psi of gas pressure.

Our top picks

It is important to consider every aspect of a thread sealant’s technical specifications when selecting the right product for the job at hand. To make this task easier for you, these top picks focus on the best pipe thread sealant for leaking pipes based on characteristics like pipe type or usage.

Overall Winner 1 Gasoila – SS16 Soft-Set Pipe Thread Sealant with PTFE Photo: amazon.com Check Current Price Gasoila is a non-hardening pipe lube that contains PTFE to keep it pliable. In addition to its high viscosity, this means that the sealant can be easily applied with the supplied brush even when cold. These properties also mean that joints can withstand movement and vibration. This sealant is effective on all commonly used pipe materials, both metals and plastics, and pipes containing most gases and liquids. It is safe with hydraulic lines and for those transporting gasoline and petroleum solvents which can attack some pipe thread sealants. Gasoila thread sealants can handle liquid pressures up to 10,000 psi and gases up to 3,000 psi. A working temperature range of minus 100 degrees to a maximum temperature of 600 degrees Fahrenheit is among the most versatile ranges for cane coatings. The sealant corresponds to the current internationally recognized safety standards. Product specifications Type: PTFE paste

PTFE Paste Quantity: 1/4 pint

1/4 pint Price: $$$ Benefits High temperature tolerance

Ideal for liquid and gas lines

Suitable for most pipe materials Cons Pretty runny and messy to use Get Gasoila thread sealant at Amazon, The Home Depot and Walmart.

Best Bang for the Buck 2 Dixon Valve TTB75 PTFE Industrial Gasket Tape Photo: amazon.com Check Latest Price Dixon Industrial Gasket Tape is the kind of inexpensive pipe thread sealant that should have a place in every toolbox. It’s easy to use and with no risk of dripping onto delicate surfaces, there’s no mess to clean up. This white PTFE tape provides an effective seal in all types of water or air carrying metal pipes. It can also be used to strengthen old screw threads when screws are loosening. The operating temperature range for this Dixon tape is from minus 212 degrees to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. While suitable for many domestic and commercial applications, it is not designed for high pressure or gas. This product is ¾ inch wide which is ideal for most pipe threads. It comes in at nearly 43 feet on a roll, which adds to its economy. Product Specifications Type: PTFE tape

PTFE Tape Quantity: 520 inches

520 inch Price: $ Plus Affordable

Easy to use with no mess

Quick and easy fix to leaks Cons Not suitable for high pressure or gas lines Get Dixon Valve thread sealant at Amazon, Walmart and JME Ellsworth.

Best for water 3 Oatey 31230 Pipe Joint Compound with PTFE with Brush Photo: amazon.com Check Current Price Oatey 31230 Pipe Joint Compound is a great general purpose pipe sealant. The main purpose of the product is to work with water pipes; The product complies with NSF-61, which sets standards for municipal water supply products. However, it can also seal leaks in lines carrying vapour, air, corrosive liquids and many acids. Oatey Pipe Joint Compound is suitable for iron, steel, copper, PVC, ABS, cycolac and polypropylene. This soft-set formula withstands temperatures from minus 50 degrees up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit and pressures up to 3,000 psi in gas and 10,000 psi in water. With an eco-friendly and non-toxic formulation, it stands out as a pipe dope (although it can cause skin irritation). Product specifications Type: PTFE compound

PTFE compound Quantity: 4 fluid ounces

4 fluid ounces Price: $$$ Benefits Non-toxic formula

Meets municipal water supply standards

Handles temperatures up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit Cons Not suitable for plastic threads Get Oatey thread sealant at Amazon, Lowe’s, and Zoro.

Best for PVC 4 Rectorseal 23631 1/4 Pint Brush Top T Plus 2 Pipe Photo: amazon.com Check Current Price The biggest challenge with using sealant on PVC threads is the tendency for users to over tighten the connections, resulting in cracking or detachment. PTFE tapes are not recommended as they lubricate the threads and make it all too easy to overtighten. Rectorseal T Plus 2 contains PTFE, but also resin fibers. These provide additional friction and a secure seal without excessive effort. This soft set compound is also suitable for most other pipe materials, both metal and plastic. It can seal pipes that carry water, gases and fuels in temperatures from minus 40 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The pressure limits are 2,000 psi for gases and 10,000 psi for liquids. It can also be pressurized immediately after use. Product specifications Type: PTFE paste

PTFE Paste Quantity: 4 fluid ounces

4 fluid ounces Price: $$ Benefits Ideal for instant repairs

Can be easily removed

Suitable for most pipe materials Cons Can be thick and difficult to use Get Rectorseal thread sealant at Amazon, Lowe’s and Zoro.

Best for Gases 5 Harvey 017065 PTFE Thread Sealant Tape for Gas Lines Photo: amazon.com Check Current Price As a general rule white PTFE tapes are general purpose and yellow PTFE tapes like this Harvey 017065 PTFE Sealant is for gases are. This high performance tape conforms to the UL Gas Safety List. This Harvey tape is a versatile product; It is not only recommended for natural gas, butane and propane, but also for water, oil and gasoline. This yellow tape can seal all metal and most plastic pipes; However, as with all PTFE tapes, it is not recommended for PVC. Its thickness also supports activities such as thread repair on bolts or valve fittings. The operating range for this tape is from minus 450 degrees to a comfortable 500 degrees Fahrenheit, and its pressure rating is 100 psi. Product Specifications Type: PTFE tape

PTFE Tape Quantity: 260 inches

260 inch Price: $$ Pros Thick tape provides excellent grip

Easy to use and remove

Affordable Cons Not suitable for PVC pipe Get Harvey thread sealant on Amazon and Zoro.

Best for Emergencies 6 Rectorseal 25790 1-3/4 ounce tube #5 pipe thread Photo: amazon.com Check Latest Price Pipe dope is a versatile compound but usually comes in cans of at least 4 ounces. That’s just too much for most toolboxes. Rectorseal 25790 comes in a handy tube to keep it handy. This soft setting compound works on both plastic and metal pipe threads and is suitable for sealing pipes containing a wide range of gases and liquids including potable water. Used with gas, air or water at up to 100psi, which covers most domestic plumbing, it can be pressurized immediately after repair. The product’s temperature range is from minus 50 degrees to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and maximum pressures are 12,000 psi for liquids and 2,600 psi for gases. Product Specifications Type: Pipe dope

Pipe dope Quantity: 1.75 ounces

1.75 ounces Price: $ Benefits Compact tube is easy to store

Works on most pipe materials

High pressure tolerance Cons Small amount for large repairs Get Rectorseal thread sealant at Amazon, The Home Depot, Lowe’s, and Ace Hardware.

Our verdict

For most pipe thread sealing projects, users can’t go wrong with Gasoila – SS16, a non-hardening PTFE paste with high temperature tolerance. Buyers who prefer to avoid the mess of paste might consider Dixon sealing tape, a budget-friendly yet effective PTFE tape with multiple versatile uses.

How we selected the best sealant for pipe threads

When compiling our top picks for the best pipe thread sealant, we looked at the two most popular product types: tape and paste. Our recommendation list provides buyers with options for a variety of specific applications, from PVC or metal tubing for water or gases, we offer a solution that best suits your situation.

During our research, we made sure that all our recommendations come from reputable brands, used by experienced professionals. All of our top picks can withstand high temperature ranges and provide a reliable seal.

frequently asked Questions

At this point you have learned about the various technical aspects to consider when selecting a pipe thread sealant. The Top Tips section lists some of the best pipe thread sealants for specific jobs, but if you still have questions, check out the helpful information below.

Q: What is the best thread sealant for PVC?

Pipe dope generally works best on PVC and Rectorseal 23631 T Plus 2 Pipe Thread Sealant is a top joint compound for this purpose.

Q: Is pipe thread sealant permanent?

Many sealants are permanent, although most can be dismantled if necessary. However, if a leak persists, it may be necessary to replace a pipe or fittings to fix the problem.

Q: Does pipe thread sealant need to dry?

It depends on the product. Soft-setting sealants, for example, never dry out completely and are therefore better able to withstand vibrations or pressure changes.

Q: How do you apply pipe thread sealant?

It depends on the type, but you should always start by cleaning the threads. PTFE tape is applied by wrapping it clockwise around the male threads. Break off after three or four wraps and press into the grooves. Pipe dope is usually brushed onto the male thread.

Flat tires are the bane of any inflatable product. Learn how to fix these hot tub mishaps easily and effectively.

Why inflatable boats suffer from breakdowns

There are a few common reasons why your hot tub may have suffered a puncture. Punctures are small holes that can appear anywhere on the product and are quite difficult to find initially. This means that many punctures are not repaired for some time – at least until the inflatable is deflated.

Here are the most common reasons why your inflatable hot tub has a flat tire:

Age. frequency of use. Lack of maintenance or poor maintenance. The product has come into contact with something sharp.

In other cases, the cause of the flat tire could be completely out of your control. An animal might have walked over the inflatable hot tub while it was out, or maybe you have a new hot tub that has a fault.

In terms of age and frequent use, there’s not much you can do. It is likely that a puncture that occurs due to these two reasons will burst again in the future. If your product continues to deteriorate, it may be best to replace it.

Poor maintenance can also cause your inflatable hot tub to deteriorate. A hot tub that is not maintained may end up with multiple untreated holes or seam tears.

An inflatable hot tub set up outside under a blue sky.

How to find a flat tire

Let’s continue our search for those pesky punctures.

On inflatable spas, the seal for the pump and the heater assembly are the two places where most of the air can escape without an actual puncture being the cause. In these cases, you may need assistance.

An air leak around the pump seal can be repaired and replaced at home, but a failed valve may require professional repair advice before proceeding. If at any point you feel unsure about the repair, it is always best to seek advice from the manufacturer.

There is a trick to finding a small hole: while the hot tub is set up and inflated, spray the tub with a mixture of soap and water. The mixture creates bubbles where air escapes from the spa. Mark this area before proceeding.

Some people also leave the airflow on while several people in the tub check for the escaped air. This can work if you’re doing it for an extremely short time, but you don’t want to over-inflate or damage the tub. Try to avoid this method if possible.

Products for repairing breakdowns

Puncture repair kits are the most famous product on the market for repairing punctures in inflatable products.

These kits contain at least glue and repair patches. The mistake many inflatable tub owners make is forgetting to clean the area around the puncture before applying the patch. The patch will not last long unless the surface of the tub is degreased first.

Using a degreaser, lightly scrub around the punctured area, then wipe off the product with a paper towel. Once dry, take one of the repair patches and cover it with the supplied adhesive. Stick the patch over the puncture, press and leave for a few hours to dry.

Alternatively, you can use clear silicone to seal the puncture. This solution isn’t that good, as some inflatable hot tubs are made of a material that doesn’t allow the silicone to properly adhere to the surface.

A lady enjoying the majesty of the bubble in her hot tub.

Repairing a flat tire at home

If you don’t have a silicone or puncture repair kit at home, there are a few makeshift ways to patch a puncture.

Gorilla glue or super glue can hold your inflatable tub together long enough for brief use (or until your repair kit arrives). You can use these similar to the silicone suggestion from the last section.

Alternatively, duct tape has been a parent’s choice for flat tires for decades! Duct tape, waterproof tape, gorilla tape – each should stay on a cleaned hot tub surface for at least a few hours.

These solutions will not last long. We recommend that you get a puncture repair kit as soon as possible.

How to determine if you need an 8 ounce or 32 ounce bottle.

Our 8oz. Bottle can be used for smaller droplet leaks. Use 1 full bottle regardless of the amount of water in the tub, which is between 250 and 1000 gallons. The water temperature should be between 70F and higher.

Water leaks in hot tub or spa plumbing can be a nuisance and in most cases are very difficult to locate due to foam sprayed insulation. The time and effort required for a manual repair can sometimes become quite expensive.

With FIX A LEAK, repair costs can be minimal and are often performed by the hot tub or spa owner.

Instructions for use:

This type of application is intended for hot tub/spa leaks that are minor in nature. If you know your hot tub/spa is leaking but can’t see a noticeable drop of water inside the spa, a wet spa deck or water slowly dripping onto the deck or floor may be the cause. Since it will be difficult to determine if you have patched this type of leak, follow the steps below.

Remove all cartridge filters.

Pour the entire contents of the bottle into the filter inlet or straight into the spa.

On the first day, run the spa for 4-6 hours, alternating between the low and high speed jets.

Since the jets normally run on a 15 minute cycle, you must be present to restart once the cycle has started.

After the 4-6 hours, you can turn off your spa or just run the circulation pump regularly.**

If on the second day the leak has slowed but not stopped, brush the bottom of your hot tub/spa before starting the process again as you did on the first day by alternating between high and low for 4-6 hours Change low speed jets.

After the second day, leave the spa off for 48 hours. During this period, check that the water level is stable and that the hot tub/spa pad remains dry.

**Note: The leak may stop after the first day, in which case you can

Continue with the instructions below.

We recommend draining your spa after treatment as long as nighttime temperatures remain above 40F. If temperatures drop below 40°C for a long period of time, you can reinstall the filter(s) and remove the rest of Fix A Leak from the spa or hot tub. Make sure you take it out every now and then and rinse it under hot water to remove any Fix A Leak residue. If you are able to drain the spa, be sure to wipe the spa down with a warm, damp, soft cloth or towel as the water level drops to ensure any remaining Fix A Leak residue is removed. If not wiped off thoroughly, it may leave a white residue. After cleaning, allow the spa to sit empty for 5-7 days to attempt to clean the FIX A LEAK from the inside of the plumbing(s) (since the foam insulation stays wet or damp for months). .

Remember that water can still drip from the saturated foam surrounding the hot tub/spa.

You should have an 80% success rate with this procedure.

Once this process is complete, refill your spa, add your chemicals, and resume normal operations.

A 32oz. Bottle may be required: typically between 1 inch and 1.5 inches per 24 hour period depending on the severity of the leak. This would allow you to start with 1/3 of the bottle and if more product is needed you can add the extra amount. Water temperatures should be between 70F and higher.

As this is a repair do not use your hot tub/spa until the FIX A LEAK has been removed either by draining or filtering out.

Recommended procedure for using FIX A LEAK:

Determine the water loss over a 24-hour period by measuring the water level drop over that period.

Fill the hot tub/spa to the original level and mark the waterline.

Remove filter cartridge(s) or other filter device. For sand filters, set the filter valve to air recirculation.

Be sure to shake the bottle well.

NOTE: Before shaking, place the bottle in a container of hot water for a few minutes to ensure the product is properly mixed.

With the circulating pump running slowly, add the FIX A LEAK through the inlet of the filter cartridge or pour directly into the hot tub/spa.

If you’re losing nearly an inch and a half a day, you’re only using your low-speed jets. If you lose an inch or less, switch between your low and high speed jets. Since these jets are typically meant to run for 15 minutes, you need to make sure you turn them on when they turn off.

4-6 hrs walk. At least you can walk for a longer period of up to 6-8 hours. if you wish.

Once this is done you can leave the circulating pump running as you don’t need to keep your other pumps running.

Check your water level the next day. If the level stays the same, the leak has stopped.

If the leak has slowed but not stopped completely, you can add more FIX A LEAK to increase the strength of the solution already in the hot tub/spa and repeat the same process as day one.

Check again the next day. If all goes well and the leak has stopped, shut down your hot tub/spa for 48 hours.

If levels hold, we recommend draining your hot tub/spa after treatment as long as nighttime temperatures remain above 40F. If temperatures drop below 40°F for an extended period of time, you can reinsert your filter cartridge(s) and collect the product in the filter(s). This may include a few cleanings. Soak cartridges in a container of warmer water for a few minutes, then rinse under running water or with a garden hose.

If you are able to drain the hot tub/spa, be sure to wipe the hot tub/spa with a warm, damp, non-abrasive cloth/towels when the water level drops to ensure any residue FIX A LEAK is removed. If not wiped off thoroughly, it may leave a white residue.

After the spa/hot tub shell has been properly cleaned, leave it empty for 5-7 days to attempt to cure the product from the inside of the plumbing(s). Foam insulation stays wet or damp for several months. Keep in mind that some water may still drip from the saturated foam surrounding the spa. Once this process is complete, refill your spa/hot tub, add your chemicals and resume normal operations.

Once your filters have been thoroughly cleaned, reinstall them and resume normal operations.

You should have an 80% success rate with these procedures.

Owning a hot tub is one of life’s luxuries. But at some point, every hot tub owner asks, “What do I do if my hot tub is leaking?”

Here are the steps I follow after owning and fixing leaks many times:

If you have a leaking hot tub, first remove the panel to locate the leak. The most likely causes are a rubber gasket on the heater connections, a cracked pipe, or a loose nozzle. If it is not possible to get to the leak site, use leak fixation products for small leaks or waterproof epoxy putty for larger leaks.

But there’s still a lot more to do to fix hot tub leaks!

So today we’re going to show you everything you need to know about leaky hot tubs. We will go through the causes, fixes, and telltale signs.

We know this is going to seem like a lot of information, so we’re going to break it all down into easy-to-read sections for you.

These sections will look like this:

Feel free to jump around as you please, but it’s definitely best to pay attention to each individual section.

Because everything you can know about leaks is your first line of defense against them.

With all of that said, we know how tricky leaks can be, so let’s jump straight to the facts.

I just installed the new hot tub heater. Hoping for no leaks! pic.twitter.com/KlRY1TNC53 – Chip Fox 🦊 (@chipfoxx) January 24, 2016

What Causes a Hot Tub to Leak?

A broken or worn rubber gasket on either end of the heater connector is a common cause of spa leaks. But it could also be a loose connection on one of the nozzles or plumbing, many of which are encased in spray foam, making them difficult to identify.

It may seem simple, water in and water out. But there are a lot more moving parts than you might first think.

In this section we will show you all the possible reasons why a hot tub can leak. Let’s start by reviewing the main parts of a hot tub and how they function.

There’s a chance your leak is being caused by a bug in one of these areas:

So what causes leaks? Most often it is a failure of a rubber gasket or the PVC glue holding two pieces of pipe together.

The water flowing through the equipment is often in excess of 104°F. That’s also a lot of heat being applied to everything, often around the clock.

So normal wear and tear is to blame. Luckily, most of them are easy to fix, which we’ll cover below.

Of course, age always matters, as hot tubs don’t last forever.

So if you’re wondering if it’s time to replace or repair your hot tub, be sure to read a recent article I published. In it, I cover the lifespan of hot tubs, including all the different types.

Just click this link to see it on my website now.

Oh man ! Our second #Hydropool hot tub got a leak! pic.twitter.com/ol8c92aQdp – Jean Christina Keen (@JeanChatterbox2) February 18, 2017

How do I find a leak in my hot tub?

To find a leak in a hot tub, remove the side panels and note where the water is pooling on the floor. This will be right below the leak. If you see wet foam and the source is unclear, the leak is probably in the sprayed foam, making it very problematic to fix other than with liquid fix-a-leak products.

But in this section, we’re going to break down all of those steps for you.

So, before we dive into some popular search methods, let’s lay out the areas you need to check:

A leak can come from any of these areas. Luckily we have some great methods for you to follow for each area if this seems overwhelming.

Our nearly $10,000 @bullfrogspas hot tub is less than a year old and already leaking. It now stands on blocks, and pilot holes have been drilled in the lower base to locate the leak. Next step is sawing in the ground to find the leak… Tell me why isn’t this ruining my hot tub? pic.twitter.com/s9CXtAXXK9 – Greg Nelson (@iastater09) September 17, 2021

Why is my hot tub leaking from the bottom?

Ultimately, gravity will cause most hot tub leaks to pool at the bottom. The source of the leak can still be from the nozzles, a cracked PVC pipe, or a worn rubber gasket in the heater fittings. But the leak could also be a crack in the hull or a loose light fixture.

Unfortunately, a hot tub can leak in many places.

Because of this, there is no single answer to this question. But ultimately, no matter where the leak is, you will eventually see it on the floor around the bottom of your hot tub.

Here are some of the most common reasons:

The Light – If your hot tub has a light at the bottom, this light housing may loosen a bit. If this happens, there may be a leak at the bottom

If your hot tub has a light at the bottom, this light housing may loosen a bit. If this happens, it can cause a leak at the bottom. The Nozzles – If any of the nozzles are leaking or the connections between the pipe and the jacket are leaking, this will result in water spilling out of the bottom

– If one of the nozzles is leaking or the connections between the tube and the shell are leaking, water will come out of the bottom. The shell – a crack in the shell can be the cause. Cracks on the top are easy to spot. However, if you have a crack under the water, you may not know it’s there without draining the water. A peek behind the fairing may not be able to tell either, due to insulation and spray foam

– a crack in the shell can be the culprit. Cracks on the top are easy to spot. However, if you have a crack under the water, you may not know it’s there without draining the water. A look behind the fairing cannot see this due to insulation and spray-on foam. Replacing them is the only option when they fail

We’ll go into fixes for each of these issues below. But troubleshooting to find out which area is the cause is crucial.

Yeh!!!!! Please tell me the hot tub didn’t have a leak in this weather 🤦 pic.twitter.com/muR7lpf8gl – Jodi B (@lttlteapot) February 20, 2019

How do I fix a leak in my hot tub?

To fix a hot tub leak, first identify the source. For leaks smaller than 1/8 inch, use a liquid fix-a-leak product. Worn rubber seals or cracked PVC pipes need to be replaced. Small cracks in the acrylic shell can be patched or waterproof epoxy can be used in inconspicuous areas.

After diagnosing the problem and knowing where to look, you need to fix the leak.

Having fixed many leaks over the years of owning hot tubs I have had to deal with most of them. And since I’m on a budget, I do most of the work myself.

Here I break down each area prone to leaks and how to deal with each:

A pump leak

The pump pushes the water coming out of the whirlpool into the heating pipe.

The heated water then exits the heater and flows back into the tub. It circulates constantly and occasionally heats up depending on the settings you have on your system.

The most likely places for a pump leak are the fittings at both ends. It could be a worn seal or a cracked pipe.

I cover both of these types of repairs below.

If you need to replace the pump

If the pump itself is leaking at the main body and not one of the fittings, it’s probably time to replace the pump itself.

I’ve done this myself and I’ll outline the following steps:

Purchase a replacement pump that is approximately the same capacity as yours (it doesn’t have to be the same brand). Make sure they are the same diameter fittings on each side (2 inch PVC is most common). Also make sure the inlet and outlet connectors are in the same position as the pump you have now.

(it doesn’t have to be the same brand). Make sure they are the same diameter fittings on each side (2 inch PVC is most common). Also make sure the inlet and outlet connectors are in the same position as the pump you have now. Turn off the main switch as you are dealing with electricity

Either drain the water or, if your hot tub has shut-off valves, simply close them while they are on either side of the pump.

or if your hot tub has gate valves (shut off valves), simply close them while they are on either side of the pump. Disconnect the power cable to the old pump from the control box. Some brands simply plug into the side of the control box, making this easier. Others may require you to open the control box panel and unscrew the wires from the inside (again, make sure the master switch is off).

Some brands simply plug into the side of the control box, making this easier. Others may require you to open the control box panel and unscrew the wires from the inside (again, make sure the master switch is off). Loosen the fittings – Using round-bar clamps, gently turn the fitting nuts on each end of the pump counterclockwise when facing them

Using round-bar clamps, gently turn the union nuts at each end of the pump counterclockwise when facing them. Check the seals and replace if necessary. If the new pump came with gaskets, just use those.

If the new pump came with gaskets, just use those. Remove the old pump

Insert the new pump and reverse the above steps to connect it

A good replacement pump is this 5hp pump from Waterway on Amazon (click here to see current price on Amazon).

A broken shell

If your shell has small cracks, don’t panic. Tiny stress fractures are not uncommon. These can be caused over time, especially if your hot tub is not on a perfectly level concrete slab.

After all, filled with water and people, the thing weighs thousands of pounds. So a little displacement here and there puts a lot of pressure on the acrylic shell.

The best way to repair a small crack in the acrylic shell is as follows:

Get a Plast-Aid Acrylic Spa Repair Kit (click to see it on Amazon)

(Click to view on Amazon) Drill a small hole at each end of the crack with a drill bit only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from propagating and getting bigger

Use a drill bit that is only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from spreading and growing Mix the dry and liquid spa repair glue in a cup; How much depends on how big the crack is

; how much depends on how big the crack is Add a small amount of acrylic paint to the glue to match the color of your shell (optional)

to match the color of your bowl (optional) Distribute a small amount into the crack and 2 holes

Allow 15 minutes to set, fuse and harden

Can be gently sanded and/or polished smooth

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE ACRYLIC REPAIR KIT ON AMAZON

Unaffiliated Hot Tub Home Care offers specialized hot tub leak repair services to ensure you can enjoy your hot tub for years to come. #HotTubLeak #HotTubLeakRepair https://t.co/s06zKfuY0m pic.twitter.com/FWpjuHy8zO – Unaffiliated Hot Tub Home Care (@UnaffiliatedC) October 22, 2019

The heating system

A heating element will fail over time. But that usually results in it not heating up or not heating up to the right temperature.

The heater system is most likely developing leaks at the gasket and split nut assembly on either side of the heater tube.

This repair can be done yourself for about $20, and I cover that in the section directly below.

seals

Rubber seals fail over time.

This is because they are not only 100% in contact with water, but also with hot water.

In my experience, the gaskets on either side of your heater pipe are the most prone to failure. Luckily these are fairly easy to replace (I just did this to mine yesterday).

If you have one that has failed (like me) it’s a good idea to replace both as they are likely of the same age and the other is about to fail as well.

Here’s how I replaced the gaskets and nuts on my hot tub:

Either drain the water or, if your spa has shut-off valves, simply close them on each side of the control box that houses the heater tube

or, if your hot tub has shut-off valves, simply close them on each side of the control box where the heater pipe is located. Hand loosen the split nut by turning it to the left (when looking straight ahead). The split nut is usually a round black piece of plastic that threads onto the end of a pipe. However, there are 2 halves instead of just one piece. You tighten the 2 halves together with screws

(if you look straight ahead). The split nut is usually a round black piece of plastic that threads onto the end of a pipe. However, there are 2 halves instead of just one piece. You tighten the two halves together with screws. Once the split nut is rotated so you can access both screws, use a screwdriver (usually Phillips) to loosen the screws and set them aside

, use a screwdriver (usually Phillips) to loosen the screws and set them aside. Remove the split nut (may need to be turned further).

The seal is in the split nut. Remove and inspect for wear or damage

Remove it and check for wear or if it is broken. While you can easily replace the gasket, I also replaced the split nut as if it was probably a little worn as well. You might be able to find this at a pool/hot tub supply store, but probably not in places like Home Depot. I couldn’t find my exact one on Amazon either. So I bought mine at SpaDepot.

, I also replaced the split nut and felt that it was probably a little worn as well. You might be able to find this at a pool/hot tub supply store, but probably not in places like Home Depot. I couldn’t find my exact one on Amazon either. So I bought mine at SpaDepot. Insert the new gasket (it has an edge that pushes into the pipe that connects to the heater

(It has a burr that pushes into the pipe that connects to the heater. Put one half of the split nut on, then the other half

, and then the other half Tighten the bolts connecting the split nut halves

Hand tighten the split nut onto the pipe by turning clockwise.

Repeat the process for the other side of the heating tube

It’s a good idea to refill the tub before replacing the trim in case you need to tighten the split nuts further. I found I just needed to tighten a bit more, and I used a large round vise to do it (gently since the split nut is plastic).

Do you have a leaking hot tub? Try checking the lines, tubes and nozzles. 💧 In some cases, all you need to do is tighten the connection or reseal the leak. 💦 pic.twitter.com/B5OqcVSLus – Quick Spa Parts (@QuickSpaParts) December 1, 2020

Can a crack in a hot tub shell be repaired?

Yes. Small cracks in a hot tub shell can be repaired. For attachment, drill a small hole at each end of the crack to prevent it from spreading. Then apply an acrylic patch. This can be mixed with acrylic paint to match the shell colour. After drying, it can be sanded and polished smooth.

As we mentioned in the previous section, a hot tub shell can definitely be repaired. The best way to repair a small crack in the acrylic shell is as follows:

Get a Plast-Aid Acrylic Spa Repair Kit (click to see it on Amazon)

(Click to view on Amazon) Drill a small hole at each end of the crack with a drill bit only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from propagating and getting bigger

Use a drill bit that is only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from spreading and growing Mix the dry and liquid spa repair glue in a cup; How much depends on how big the crack is

; how much depends on how big the crack is Add a small amount of acrylic paint to the glue to match the color of your shell (optional)

to match the color of your bowl (optional) Distribute a small amount into the crack and 2 holes

Allow 15 minutes to set, fuse and harden

Can be gently sanded and/or polished smooth

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE ACRYLIC REPAIR KIT ON AMAZON

What if the shell is too far away?

For larger tears or a missing piece, you can use the above procedure in larger quantities.

Just remember that adhesive, no matter how strong, is not designed to hold water under pressure, so really large gaps may require professional help.

How to fix if your hot tub is only leaking when the jets are on

If your hot tub is leaking when the jets are on, in most cases it is either a small crack or a worn rubber gasket.

While it’s always ideal to replace a worn seal or a cracked pipe, the nozzles are often encased in spray foam. That makes them really hard to get to.

So before I dig out the foam and crawl into the enclosed hot tub area, here’s what I’ll try first.

I use Marlig Fix-a-Leak (click to see on Amazon)

This stuff is pretty amazing and I’ve used it many times for small leaks that would otherwise be difficult to fix.

It works great. It’s also an Amazon’s Choice product with some great reviews.

This is a liquid that you simply pour into the suction area. No need to drain the water before OR after use. Just give him 24-48 hours to see if he fixes the leak.

Here are the steps to use:

Remove the filters and set them aside

Shake the bottle really well

Pour about 1/4 of the bottle (if you have the 32oz bottle) into the area where the filters were (it will be sucked into the pipes here

(if you have the 32oz bottle) into the area where the filters were (it’s going to be sucked into the plumbing here. Turn on all the jets to make it move through the hot tub’s plumbing for 6 hours

Turn off the system (at the breaker would be the easiest way)

(On the breaker would be the easiest way) Just walk away and leave for 24-48 hours

Check again after 24-48 hours for signs of leakage

If there is no leak, replace the filters, check the water chemistry and adjust if necessary

Check water chemistry and adjust if necessary. Wait another 48 hours before using

If the leak has slowed but not resolved, repeat the process

Fix-a-Leak is heavier than water, so it naturally sinks to the deepest point.

Most often this is where the leak is as that is where the water pressure will move. It can fill cracks up to 1/8″ in diameter, so it’s perfect for tiny cracks that would be difficult to replace.

CLICK HERE TO SEE FIX-A-LEAK ON AMAZON

How to fix cracked hot tub pipes

A ruptured pipe in a hot tub should be replaced. If you have gate valves, close them and loosen the fittings on either side of the crack. Replace with a new piece. Glued pieces need to be cut out with a saw. Waterproof epoxy can work on small cracks, but it may not last as long as it is replaced.

When it comes to installing a hot tub, there are many pipes involved. While most pipes are extremely durable, if one of them ruptures, you should know how to fix it.

In the event of a pipe rupture, the ideal solution is of course replacement. Unfortunately, due to the location and age of the hot tub, this is not always possible (parts may be more difficult to find).

While it seems odd to me, PVC pipe (which makes up much of hot tub plumbing) is not universal.

Think of them like cell phone chargers in 2002; everyone can be a little different. Even if you find a 2″ piece, if it’s threaded, the thread might not be the same as your thread.

Luckily, there are steps you can take to fix a ruptured pipe if you can’t replace it.

To replace a cracked pipe

If it’s a simple part that’s easy to access and easy to replace, simply:

Drain the hot tub

Remove the cracked pipe (it could just be screwed on making it easier to remove). If it’s glued, you’ll need to use a hacksaw to cut it out

(it could simply be screwed on, making it easy to remove). If it is glued, you need to cut it out with a hacksaw. Replace with a new PVC pipe of the same size

If it is a glued in piece, glue it in and let it set fully before filling with water (usually 2 hours).

Apply epoxy putty

Another way to repair pipes, and if those pipes are PVC works even better, is to use an epoxy putty such as JB Water Weld (click to see on Amazon).

This stuff is great as it can be used literally when wet or even underwater!

However, it will not work if the water is actively spurting out of the leak at high pressure. A few drops, no problem.

However, if the leak is significant, drain the water before applying the putty.

How to use it:

Break off a small piece (about 1″) and mix thoroughly with your hands (I like to wear latex gloves). Epoxy works by combining the two materials

(I like to wear latex gloves). Epoxy works by combining the two materials. Squeeze it over the leak and spread it out to conform to the area (if this is behind your panels it obviously doesn’t matter what it looks like).

(Obviously if this is behind your panels it doesn’t matter what it looks like.) It sets in 25 minutes and hardens in 1 hour

If the JB Weld is applied to a conspicuous area, just know that it can be sanded and painted. But it helps if you apply it smooth and clean from the start.

Here’s a picture of JB Water Weld I used to fix two leaks.

The JB Weld is the white putty material you see spread out on either end of this small section. Since this is behind the fairing, it didn’t matter how pretty it looked.

But it works!

CLICK HERE TO SEE JB WATER WELD ON AMAZON

Using a flexible coupling clamp

Sometimes there’s just a small leak where two pipes meet, but getting those pipes out and replacing them isn’t easy.

What I did once when this happened to me was use what’s called a flexible coupler clamp (click to see on Amazon).

It’s a rubber boot (2″ is typical for many hot tubs, but I had an older one that was 1.5″).

It slides over each end where the 2 tubes meet and then you have a stainless steel clamp that sits on each end that you tighten with a screwdriver. It worked great for me and was MUCH easier than swapping both tubes.

Here are the steps:

Ideally, drain the hot tub (otherwise you could get sprayed in the process)

(Otherwise you could get sprayed in the process) Disconnect the 2 pipes where they meet

Slide the rubber (with the clips released) over one end

Push the 2 pipes that are touching

Slide the rubber back to the other tube so the center of the rubber boot is roughly where the two pieces meet

Tighten (by hand) the 2 screws that control the clamps. Since you’re dealing with water under pressure, you want it to be tight. But obviously not so tight that you risk cracking the pipe

Since you’re dealing with water under pressure, you want it to be tight. But obviously not so tight that you risk breaking the pipe. It probably makes sense to refill the spa and see if further tightening is needed before replacing the plate

CLICK HERE TO CHECK THIS ON AMAZON (also available in multiple sizes)

Did I cover everything you wanted to know about fixing hot tub leaks?

Hot tubs are excellent luxury devices, and the memories you make in them will last forever.

Even though hot tubs are more durable than ever, that doesn’t mean they’re perfect.

Sometimes, no matter what you do, you will end up with a leak. Therefore, in this article, we have examined all the most common types of leaks. We investigated what causes them. But more importantly, a variety of ways to fix them.

Finally, we answered the question what do I do if my spa leaks?

We hope this was helpful. Now that you know all of your options, you are definitely ready to deal with any leaks that may arise from your hot tub.

Confused About Hot Tub Chemicals?

Hot tub chemicals can be confusing. How much to add, which to buy and are they all really needed?

I take out the confusion in a recent article.

Not only do I cover what chemicals you need, but also the ones you don’t need that are a waste of money. Then I also explore the chemicals that are best for sensitive skin and how to avoid a hot tub rash.

Just click the link to read this on my website now.

Mark the water level on the inside of the hot tub with a marker or colored pencil. Turn on the spa and let it run for 24 hours. Turn it off and mark the new water level. Add enough water to fill the spa to the original water mark. Leave the pool in the off position for 24 hours. Mark how far the water level drops when the spa is off. If the water drops evenly while the hot tub is running and does not, there is a crack in the hot tub shell. A rapid loss while the pump is running indicates a leak after the water has left the pump. A higher loss when the pump is off indicates that the leak is in the water line before the pump.

Tip

You may need to pull out the urethane foam insulation around the pipes to expose them. It is not uncommon for mice and other small animals to nest in the insulation.

Products are available that you pour into the water to stop small leaks.

Welcome to our FAQ section

To jump to a specific product, select an option below:

Flex paste

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Flex Tape Remover

Auto/RV Repair Kit

Inflatable Patch & Repair

Frequently asked questions about FLEX PASTE™

Q: Is Flex Paste part of the MAX line?

A: It definitely is! Get 100% more in the Flex Paste MAX. Get more to do more for less.

Q: In what size can I buy Flex Paste MAX?

A: Flex Paste MAX comes in a 12 lb. can available.

Q: What colors can I get Flex Paste MAX in?

A: You can get Flex Paste MAX in white or black.

Q: Is it important to read ALL the instructions before using/opening my Flex Paste?

A: YES… To understand the best way to apply, use and preserve your Flex Paste it is important that you READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS before use.

Q: What is Flexpaste?

A: Flex Paste is a super thick gummed paste that sticks to the surface and instantly fills large gaps, cracks and holes. Once dry, Flex Paste turns into a strong, flexible, waterproof, rubberized coating that seals out air, water and moisture on a wide variety of surfaces and items.

Q: What sizes and colors can I buy Flex Paste in?

A: Flex Paste is offered in black or white and is available in the following sizes:

9 ounce cartridge (caulking gun required)

1 pound glass

3 pound tub

6 lb tub

12 lbs. MAX tub

Q: What surfaces can I use Flex Paste on?

A: You can use Flex Paste on a variety of surfaces including wood, glass, tile, concrete, aluminum, metal, brick, stucco, masonry, copper, fabric, fiberglass, ceramic, porcelain, natural stone, roofing, PVC, EIFS, EPDM, CSPE, Hypalon polyurethanes and much more.

Q: Can I use Flex Paste on plastic and rubber surfaces?

A: Flex Paste sticks to a variety of surfaces. However, it may not adhere to certain plasticized or rubber surfaces. We recommend testing on a small, inconspicuous area before use.

Q: What is the opacity of Flex Paste?

A: One pound of Flex Paste yields approximately 10 linear ft by 2″ wide with a layer thickness of approximately 1/16″.

Q: Can I use Flex Paste on a wet surface or under water?

A: YES, Flex Paste can be applied to dry or wet surfaces and even underwater. It does not dissolve or wash away and dries even under water. For best results, apply a generous amount to surface with firm pressure. This will help push out the water and allow better contact with the surface during application. Etching the surface can help with adhesion on both wet and dry surfaces.

Q: What projects can I use Flex Paste on?

A: Flex Paste is perfect for DIY projects, home improvement projects, arts and crafts, hobbies and more! Use it to repair your roof, winterize your home, repair plumbing, seal cracks, car or boat repairs, pool and spa repairs, and more.

Q: Can I use Flex Paste as a sealer?

A: YES, it is an excellent waterproof sealant. Flex Paste can be used on windows, doors, vents, thresholds and more. It forms a waterproof barrier that seals out air and moisture. Use Flexpaste to prevent flood damage. It can even be used to fill large voids to keep insects and rodents out of your home.

Q: Can I use this for drinking water, rain barrel, aquarium, etc.?

A: Flex Paste has not been tested for safe use in drinking water sources or near plants and animals.

Q: How do I apply Flex Paste?

A: Use a spatula, trowel, or similar tool to remove a smooth, even layer of material from the top of the tub. Scooping deep into the tub can create air pockets that can dry out the Flex Paste. Apply a generous amount in a smooth, sweeping motion. (see instructions on the label)

Q: Can I smooth or edit it after applying?

A: Depending on the temperature, humidity or thickness of the layer, Flex Paste can be used within 15-30 minutes after the first application. It will feel dry in about 2 hours and fully cure in 24 to 48 hours. Flex Paste gets stronger over time.

Q: How do I preserve Flex Paste?

A: Flex Paste will begin to harden upon exposure to air, moisture and moisture. To ensure a fresh, usable product, there is a protective film on the surface of the Flex Paste. This protective film helps keep air, moisture and moisture out of the tub. DO NOT THROW THE PROTECTIVE FILM OR SILICA GEL PACK!

Always replace the protective film and silica gel packet after each use.

Start by pressing the foil towards the center of the product’s surface and continue to push outward so that the foil remains in constant contact with the Flex Paste.

Make sure that no air pockets have formed between the foil and the Flex Paste.

Once you reach the rim of the tub, press the foil around the inside perimeter with the excess foil facing up.

Replace the silica gel pack and attach the lid.

Always remove any dry material or skin that may have formed on the surface before use. Do not mix dry and fresh Flex Paste together in the tub.

Q: I lost my protective film. What should I do?

A: Cut a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil that is 1/2 inch larger than the opening of the Flex-Paste container all around. Use it in place of the protective film after each use.

Q: How long should I wait before applying a second coat of Flex Paste?

A: Allow 24 hours to cure before applying additional coats if needed.

Q: How long does it take for the product to fully cure?

A: Depending on the layer thickness, the product needs 24 – 48 hours to fully cure. Temperature and humidity also affect the curing process. Humid environments will cure the product faster than dry environments. If the treated area is still damp or soft, it will take longer to set.

Q: Does Flex Paste remain flexible after it is fully cured?

A: YES, Flex Paste dries to a strong, flexible gum that will expand and contract with the surfaces it is adhered to.

Q: Will Flex Paste shrink?

A: NO, Flex Paste will not shrink, crack or peel.

Q: Can Flex Paste be painted?

A: YES, once fully cured it can be painted any color.

Q: Can Flex Paste be sanded?

A: Unlike putty or caulk, Flex Paste dries into a waterproof, flexible gum. Therefore, sanding after the Flex Paste has cured may not be the best option. Rather than sanding, we recommend using a putty knife, trowel or similar tool to smooth the surface of the Flex Paste to the desired finish. You can even add designs and patterns to Flex Paste to create your own unique artistic textures.

Q: Is Flex Paste chemical, UV and mildew resistant?

A: YES, once fully cured, Flex Paste is UV, mildew and chemical resistant.

Q: Does it have an odor?

A: Flex Paste has a slight mild odor when applied, but will dissipate as it cures.

Q: How do I remove flexpaste?

A: Do not use water to clean Flex Paste. Flex Paste can be cleaned with a dry cloth before curing. If necessary, most residues can be removed with acetone or white spirit. Application tools can also be cleaned with a dry cloth and, if necessary, with acetone or mineral spirits. Once fully cured, Flex Paste can be removed with a sharp tool such as a chisel or spatula. However, it may not be possible to remove it without damaging the surface.

Q: Can I dilute Flex Paste?

A: NO, Flex Paste is a ready to use product. Do not dilute with solvents or water.

Q: Can I use this to repair a gas tank?

A: We do not recommend using Flex Paste to seal gas tanks or other containers containing flammable liquids.

Q: Can Flex Paste be used with electrical cords?

A: Flex Paste has not been tested for this application and does not have a UL rating.

Q: At what temperatures can I apply Flex Paste?

A: Flex Paste can be applied over a wide temperature range of 0°F – 150ۜ°F. Once applied and fully cured, it can withstand a wider temperature range from -40°F to 200°F.

Q: What is the recommended storage temperature for Flex Paste?

A: Store Flex Paste at temperatures between 60°F and 100°F.

Q: How long does Flex Paste last?

A: With proper use, care and maintenance, Flex Paste will last for years.

Q: What is the maximum pressure Flex Paste can withstand?

A: There are a variety of factors that can affect the maximum pressure that Flex Paste can withstand. Depending on the thickness of the layer applied, the type of surface it is applied to, the size of the crack or hole to be sealed, Flex Paste will withstand a wide range of hydrostatic pressure. Always wait for the Flex Paste to fully cure before testing.

Q: Can I store Flex Paste in a hot garage or outside?

A: In order to extend the life of the product, we recommend replacing the film and silica package after each use and closing the lid tightly. If possible, store your Flex Paste in a cool, dry place.

Q: Is Flex Paste food safe/safe?

A: Flex Paste is not approved for use around food.

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FLEX ADHESIVE FAQ

Q: Is Flex Glue part of the MAX line?

A: Flex Glue is an easy to use, super strong, waterproof adhesive with amazing instant grip technology.

Get 180% more now with Flex Glue MAX!

Q: What size is Flex Glue MAX?

A: Get Flex Glue MAX in the oversized 28 ounce PRO cartridge.

Q: How many meters can I get out of a tube of Flex Glue?

A: Depending on the thickness of the bead, Flex Glue offers:

MINI 0.6 oz. (clear): up to 3 linear feet

MINI 0.75 oz. (white): up to 3.75 linear feet

4 oz. Squeeze Tubing (Clear): Up to 20 linear feet

6 ounces. Pinch Tubing (White): Up to 30 linear feet

9 oz. Pro Formula (Clear): Up to 45 linear feet

10 ounces. Pro Formula (white): up to 50 linear feet

28 ounces. MAX (white): up to 140 linear feet

Q: What colors does Flex Glue MAX come in?

A: Flex Glue MAX is available in white, but Original Flex Glue is available in white and clear.

Q: Can Flex Glue be used underwater?

A: Yes, Flex Glue can be applied underwater and it will even cure underwater.

Q: Can it be used as a seal?

A: Flex Glue is an excellent sealant. It can fill large cavities and is great for applications with uneven surfaces.

Q: Can Flex Glue be painted?

A: Yes, once fully cured it can be painted.

Q: What is the difference between Flex Glue in the Squeeze Tube and the Pro Formula Cartridge?

A: All sizes have amazing instant grab technology and our Pro Formula has even more instant grab.

Q: Is Flex Glue resistant to mold and mildew?

A: Yes, it is.

Q: Is Flex Glue UV resistant?

A: Yes, it is.

Q: Can it be used on porous surfaces?

A: Yes, Flex Glue is designed to be super thick. It adheres to porous substrates such as brick, concrete, mortar and much more.

Q: Can I smooth or edit it after applying?

A: Yes, Flex Glue can be edited or repositioned within 10 minutes of initial application. It will feel dry in 1 hour.

Q: How long does it take for the product to fully cure?

A: Flex Glue fully cures in 24-48 hours and reaches its maximum strength in seven days.

Q: At what temperatures can I apply Flex Glue?

A: Flex Glue is best applied when the surface temperature is between 0°F and 150°F. When fully cured, Flex Glue can withstand temperatures from -40°F to 200°F.

Q: What is the recommended storage temperature for Flex Glue?

A: Store Flex Glue at temperatures between 60°F and 100°C

Q: After using Flex Glue, how do I clean before it cures?

A: Flex Glue can be cleaned with a dry cloth before curing. If necessary, most residues can be removed with isopropyl alcohol.

Q: Can I remove Flex Glue after drying?

A: Once dry, Flex Glue can be removed with sharp tools similar to a chisel. However, it may not be possible to separate joined materials without damaging the surfaces.

Q: Can I use it for drinking water, rain barrel, fish tank, etc.?

A: Flex Glue has not been tested on potable water sources.

Q: Does Flex Glue Clear retain its clarity once fully cured?

A: Yes, it dries to a crystal clear bond.

Q: Will Flex Glue shrink during the curing process?

A: Flex Glue will not shrink, crack or peel.

Q: Is Flex Glue food safe/safe?

A: Flex Glue is not approved for use around food.

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FLEX BAND FAQ

Q: What’s better than Flex Tape? Flex tape MAX!

A: Flex Tape is one of the most effective and user-friendly products out there. In fact, the only thing better than flex tape is more of it! Flex Tape MAX offers sizes that are 400% more for less.

Q: What sizes can I buy Flex Tape MAX in?

A: Get Flex Tape MAX in 4″x25′ and 8″x25′. Do you have a lot of damage? Arm yourself with Flex Tape MAX and be ready for whatever nature throws at you. No project is too BIG for Flex Tape MAX.

Q: What colors can I buy Flex Tape MAX in?

A: Get Flex Tape MAX now in black, white or clear.

Q: At what temperatures can I apply Flex Tape?

A: Flex Tape is best applied when surface temperatures are between 20°F and 120°F. Flex Tape withstands temperatures from -70°F to 200°F.

Q: What is the recommended storage temperature for Flex Tape?

A: Store Flex Tape at temperatures between 60°F and 100°F.

Q: Can I paint over it?

A: Most colors will not adhere to Flex Tape. However, Flex Seal Aerosol can be used as a primer to change the appearance of surfaces to which Flex Tape has been applied.

Q: I’m trying to glue it to fabric but it won’t stick. Is there anything I can do to prepare the surface?

A: Flex Tape can be heated with a standard hair dryer to improve the bond to the fabric. Continued firm pressure and time also help increase adhesion. Some customers have found it helpful to first prime a fabric surface with Flex Seal Aerosol, allow to dry, and then apply Flex Tape.

Q: Can I use it for my radiator hose?

On a. We do not recommend using Flex Tape on radiator hoses.

Q: Can I use it on a tank that contains gasoline or oil?

On a. We do not recommend using Flex Tape on a gas or oil tank.

Q: Can I use this to repair a car or bicycle tire?

On a. Due to the extreme pressure involved, we do not recommend using Flex Tape to repair tires.

Q: Can I use it on a container that holds water to drink?

A: It has not been tested with drinking water.

Q: What is the maximum pressure it can withstand?

A: The maximum pressure that Flex Tape can withstand depends on the substrate and the conditions under which it is applied. It’s always best to test a small area first.

Q: If I’m using it to patch an above ground pool, is it best to apply to the inside or outside of the pool?

A: Both! Flex Tape forms a super strong bond with itself. So when patching a pool, it is best to first apply Flex Tape to the inside of the pool wall and then apply a second piece of Flex Tape to the outside. Remember to cut your flex tape larger than the area of ​​the leak. You do not have to drain the pool before use. Flex Tape is a temporary emergency repair and is not intended as a permanent solution.

Q: Can I use this to repair an air mattress or inflatable boat?

A: Flex Tape can be used as a temporary emergency repair on an air mattress or inflatable boat. However, it may not stick with all materials. Always test before use.

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Frequently Asked Questions about FLEX SEAL FLUID

Q: Does Flex Seal Liquid have a MAX line?

A: YES, now you can get MORE of the incredible coating, sealing and protection that Flex Seal Liquid offers in the new MAX line sizes. Get 150% more Flex Seal Liquid when you buy Flex Seal Liquid MAX.

Q: What size can I buy Flex Seal Liquid MAX in?

A: Flex Seal Liquid MAX is sold in 2.5 gallon containers.

Q: How much of this will one can cover?

A: The opacity depends on the number of coats used and the type of surface you are applying Flex Seal Liquid to. However, our available sizes typically cover the following range:

1 Large 16 ounces – up to 18.75 square feet,

1 jumbo 32 ounce – up to 37.5 square feet,

1 giant gallon – up to 150 square feet

2.5 Gal MAX Size – up to 375 square feet.

Q: What colors can I get Flex Seal Liquid MAX in?

A: Flex Seal Liquid MAX is available in white and black. To learn more about this amazing product, click here.

Q: What is the shelf life of FLEX SEAL LIQUID?

A: Flex Seal Liquid has a shelf life of 24 months when stored properly. If the can is left open for a long time, a skin may form on the surface. To avoid skin formation, remove the cap, use immediately, and always replace the cap after each use. If skin formation occurs, remove the top layer and use the product.

Q: Will it expand and contract in summer and winter?

A: Yes, Flex Seal Liquid expands, stays flexible, expands and contracts.

Q: Can I use it on the inside of my rain barrel?

A: Yes, Flex Seal Liquid is safe on rain barrels (once fully cured).

Q: How much pressure can it withstand?

A: The maximum pressure that Flex Seal Liquid can withstand depends on the surface and conditions under which it is applied. It’s always best to test a small area first.

Q: At what temperatures can I apply Flex Seal Liquid?

A: Flex Seal Liquid is best applied when surface temperatures are between 32°F and 120°F. When fully cured, Flex Seal Liquid can withstand temperatures from -80°F to 350°F.

Q: What is the recommended storage temperature for Flex Seal Liquid?

A: Store Flex Seal Liquid at temperatures between 60°F and 100°F.

Q: Can I dilute it?

A: Flex Seal Liquid is ready to use and should be used straight from the can. Do not dilute with solvents or water.

Q: How do I clean it up?

A: You can wipe up excess or spilled product with a dry cloth or paper towel and mineral spirits (BEFORE the liquid begins to harden). DO NOT USE water or alcohol-based solvents.

Q: Can I apply it on a wet surface or when it’s raining?

A: It is always best to apply Flex Seal Liquid to a clean, dry and grease and oil free surface. If applied in heavy rain, some of the product may be washed away. Therefore we recommend application 24 hours before heavy rain, hail or snowfall (when possible).

Q: Can I use this to repair a gas tank?

A: We do not recommend using Flex Seal Liquid to seal gas tanks or other flammable liquids.

Q: Can I paint it?

A: Once fully cured, Flex Seal Liquid cannot be painted over with most conventional paints.

Q: Can I use it for underfoot applications?

A: No, we do not recommend using Flex Seal Liquid for underfoot applications.

Q: Is Flex Seal Liquid food safe/safe?

A: Flex Seal Liquid is not approved for use around food.

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FLEX SEAL FAQ

Q: What is the Flex Seal MAX range?

A: Get more caulking, patching and repairing now. The Flex Seal Products MAX Line is here with larger containers of our Flex Seal Products. Do you have a great job? Well, Flex Seal has some great solutions for you. Get more to do more for less!

Q: What’s new in the Flex Seal MAX range?

A: It’s the same great product in a larger size to handle bigger tasks. Get Flex Seal Spray now in the 17oz MAX containers. The Flex Seal MAX offers 20% MORE! This is the product that started it all, and now you can get more of it for less in this new size of the MAX line.

Q: What colors are available in the Flex Seal MAX Line?

A: Get the incredible Flex Seal Spray MAX Line, available in Black, White and Clear, and tackle the biggest of projects with the ease of Flex Seal Spray.

Q: How long does it take to dry?

A: The drying time depends on the temperature, humidity and thickness of the coating. Flex Seal typically feels dry within 2 to 3 hours and fully cures in 24 hours. It gets stronger over time.

Q: How much of this will one can cover?

A: Depending on the number of coats and thickness, one MAX can will cover up to 15 square feet, a 14 oz. can cover up to 12 square feet and a MINI 2 oz. can cover up to 2 square feet.

Q: How much pressure can it withstand?

A: Flex Seal withstands normal hydrostatic water pressure such as rainwater, but is not designed to withstand extreme pressure.

Q: At what temperatures can I use it?

A: Flex Seal Spray is best applied when the surface temperature is between 0°F and 100°F. When fully cured, Flex Seal Spray can withstand temperatures from -20°F to 140°F.

Q: What is the recommended storage temperature for this?

A: Store Flex Seal Spray at temperatures between 60°F and 100°F.

Q: Can I apply it on a wet surface?

A: Flex Seal can be applied to a wet surface or in a humid environment in an emergency. However, it always adheres better to a clean, dry surface. To ensure its longevity, we recommend reapplying Flex Seal once the area is completely dry.

Q: How long will it take?

A: Depending on the environment, coatings added, and maintenance, many people have found Flex Seal to last for years without cracking, peeling, or losing its strength or sealing properties.

Q: Can I paint or brush on instead of spraying?

A: Yes, you can spray the Flex Seal directly into a bowl and brush, brush or roll anywhere you like. However, we recommend using Flex Seal Liquid for these types of applications.

Q: Can I use it to seal the inside of a water tank used for drinking?

A: No, we do not recommend using Flex Seal on surfaces that will come in direct contact with potable water.

Q: Can I use this to repair radiators, tires or other areas of extreme heat and pressure?

A: No, Flex Seal is not designed to withstand extreme heat or pressure.

Q: Can I use it on a gas tank?

A: No, Flex Seal should not be used to seal gas tanks, oil tanks or other combustible materials.

Q: Is Flex Seal connected to GAF?

A: No, it is not affiliated with GAF and is not intended for use by professional roofers.

Q: Is Flex Seal Clear the same formula as Flex Seal Original and Brite?

A: In order to give Flex Seal Clear its amazing transparency, we had to make some adjustments to our formula. As such, the spray is a bit thinner and multiple coats may be required to get the job done.

Q: Can I use Flex Seal Spray on vinyl pools and pool liners?

No, we do not recommend using Flex Seal Spray on vinyl.

Q: Is Flex Seal food grade/safe?

A: Flex Seal has not been approved for use around food.

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FLEX SHOT FAQ

Q: Can I paint over Flex Shot after it has cured?

A: No, Flex Shot will not accept a top coat. You can use Flex Paste or Flex Glue to seal the area if painting is required.

Q: Can I apply it on a wet surface?

A: It is best to apply Flex Shot to a clean, dry surface. Despite this, Flex Shot can be applied to a wet surface, but not into standing water.

Q: Can I use it in an enclosed space?

A: Yes, but it is recommended that Flex Shot be used in a well-ventilated area.

Q: Will it fade, dry out, crack, yellow or deteriorate from contact with household cleaners?

A: No, Flex Shot will not fade, dry out, crack, yellow or deteriorate from contact with household cleaners.

Q: How long does it take?

A: Flex Shot lasts up to 30 years and will not fade, dry out, crack, yellow or deteriorate.

Q: At what temperatures can I use Flex Shot?

A: Flex Shot is best applied at surface temperatures of 0°F to 150°F. Once fully cured, Flex Shot can withstand extreme temperatures from -76°F to 350°F.

Q: What is the recommended storage temperature for Flex Shot?

A: Store Flex Shot at temperatures between 60°F and 100°F.

Q: How many yards can I get out of a can of Flex Shot?

A: One tin will cover up to forty (40) linear feet depending on the thickness of the bead.

Q: Can I use it on a container that holds water to drink?

A: Flex Shot has not been tested for use in potable water systems.

Q: Can I use it to repair tires or other areas of extreme pressure?

A: Flex Shot is not recommended for use under extreme pressure.

Q: Are the extension tubes reusable?

A: Yes, extension tubes are reusable. After using Flex Shot with the extension tube, you can leave the extension tube attached to the Flex Shot can.

Q: Can the extension tubes be trimmed to adjust the track thickness?

A: Yes, the extension tubes can be cut to any size to produce the desired bead thickness.

Q: How do I remove the extension tube attached to my Flex Shot can?

A: The extension tube screws onto the top of the Flex Shot can and is removed by unscrewing counter-clockwise. DO NOT attempt to remove the extension tube by pulling or unplugging.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Flex Tape Remover

Q: What is Flex Tape Adhesive Remover?

A: Flex Tape Adhesive Remover is an easy-to-use aerosol spray specially formulated to remove flex tape’s super strong adhesive bond.

Q: What can I use it for?

A: Use it to remove flex tape and other hard adhesive tapes such as masking, ducting, double-sided, painter’s, gaffer, scotch and packing tape, decals, stickers, labels, tar or asphalt, adhesive residue, rubber, bugs, Ink, lipstick, markers, paint transfers, pine tar, soot, dirt, tree sap, tinted vinyl windows, wallpaper, wax, weatherstrip and much more!

Q: How do I use it to remove Flex Tape?

A: Always use protective gloves and goggles.

Lift one edge of the Flex Tape and spray onto the adhesive just under the backing.

Use pliers to grab the flex tape and pull up.

Spray directly onto the adhesive while peeling the Flex Tape from the surface.

Once Flex Tape is removed, spray directly onto excess adhesive residue, leave for 10 seconds and wipe with a clean cloth.

Repeat until area is free of glue.

*A stiff brush can help remove residue.

Q: What surfaces can I use it on?

A: PVC, metal, steel, copper, aluminum, wood, ceramic, porcelain, tile, glass, fiberglass, stucco, plaster, stone, cement and concrete.

IMPORTANT: FLEX TAPE® ADHESIVE REMOVER may not be compatible with certain plastics, vinyl, paints, rubber, etc. Always test on an inconspicuous area before use.

Q: Does it affect the surface I use it on?

A: When used properly, it will not cause surfaces to crack, peel, fade or yellow. If left on the surface for too long it could penetrate other top coats. Be sure to read the directions!

Q: How much glue can it remove?

A: Each project’s requirements may be different, so they may vary based on individual usage. It is available in 5 ounce and 12 ounce cans.

Q: Can I use this to remove Flex Glue?

A: The remover will not work with Flex Glue’s super strong adhesive formula.

Q: How do I clean up after use?

A: Wipe clean with a clean cloth.

Q: How should I store it?

A: Store in a cool, dry place. Flex Tape Adhesive Remover should never be exposed to temperatures above 120°F.

Q: What is the durability?

A: 2 years when properly stored.

Q: Is it safe to use around plants and animals?

A: It has not been tested for this use.

Q: Can I use it for drinking water, rain barrel, fish tank, etc.?

A: We do not recommend using the product in direct contact with drinking water.

Q: Is it toxic if ingested?

A: Yes, it is harmful if swallowed or ingested. Follow the directions and precautions printed on the label.

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Car/RV Repair Kit Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the Auto/RV Repair Kit?

A: This kit includes an easy-to-use Flex Glue adhesive and two self-adhesive Flex Tape peel-and-stick patches. It combines the power and versatility of Flex Glue and Flex Tape for common automotive repairs.

Q: What is included in the Auto/RV Repair Kit?

A: This kit contains a .75 ounce tube of Flex Glue White, a 3″ x 4″ Flex Tape Clear patch, and a 3″ x 4″ Flex Tape Black patch.

Q: At what temperatures can I apply Flex Glue?

A: Flex Glue can be applied at temperatures between 0°F and 150°F.

Q: At what temperatures can I use Flex Tape?

A: Flex Tape can be applied in temperatures between 20°F and 120°F.

Q: What temperatures does Flex Glue withstand?

A: Once applied and cured, it can withstand a wide range of temperatures from -40°F to 200°F.

Q: Can I apply the Flex Tape patch to wet surfaces?

A: Yes, Flex Tape patches can be applied to both wet and dry surfaces.

Q: Can I apply the Flex Glue to wet surfaces?

A: Yes, Flex Glue can be applied to both wet and dry surfaces.

Q: I’m trying to put the Flex Tape patch on fabric but it won’t stick. Is there anything I can do to prepare the surface?

A: Flex Tape patches can be heated with a standard hair dryer to improve adhesion to the fabric. Continued firm pressure and time also help increase adhesion.

Q: After using Flex Glue, how do I clean before it cures?

A: Flex Glue can be cleaned with a dry cloth before curing. If necessary, most residues can be removed with isopropyl alcohol.

Q: Can I remove Flex Glue after drying?

A: Once dry, Flex Glue can be removed with sharp tools such as a chisel. However, it may not be possible to separate joined materials without damaging the surfaces.

Q: Will Flex Glue shrink during the curing process?

A: No, Flex Glue will not shrink, crack or peel.

Q: How long does it take for Flex Glue to fully cure?

A: Flex Glue fully cures in 24-48 hours and reaches its maximum strength in seven days.

Q: Can I smooth or finish Flex Glue after applying it?

A: Yes, Flex Glue can be edited or repositioned within 10 minutes of initial application. It will feel dry in about 1 hour.

Q: Is Flex Glue UV resistant?

A: Yes, it is.

Q: How many yards can I get out of a .75 ounce tube of Flex Glue?

A: Up to 3.75 linear feet will be provided depending on the thickness of the bead.

Q: Can I use this kit to repair a rearview mirror?

A: No, this product is not suitable for rear view mirror repair.

Q: Can I use this kit to repair a tire?

A: No, the kit is not designed for high pressure applications

Q: Can I use this kit on a container that contains drinking water?

A: Flex Glue and Flex Tape have not been tested on potable water sources.

Q: Can I use the kit to repair a gas or oil tank?

A: No, this kit is not suitable for containers containing flammable liquids.

Q: Can I use the Flex Glue or The Flex Tape patches under the hood?

A: We do not recommend using the Flex Glue or Flex Tape patches on high temperature applications such as radiators, hoses or engine blocks.

Q: Are there any best practice tips I should know before using?

A: Before using the Flex Glue or Flex Tape Patches, use a clean cloth to remove any oil, dirt or grime from the surface.

If using Flex Tape patches, press down firmly to remove wrinkles, creases, or air bubbles. You can use a squeegee or roller to smooth it out.

Apply constant pressure for a period of time.

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Flex Seal Inflatable Patch & Repair FAQ

Q: What is the Flex Seal Inflatable Patch and Repair Kit?

A: This kit includes an easy-to-use Flex Glue adhesive and two self-adhesive Flex Tape peel-and-stick patches. It combines the power and versatility of Flex Glue and Flex Tape for common automotive repairs.

Q: What is the Inflatable Flex Seal Patch & Repair?

A: The Flex Seal Inflatable Patch & Repair is an easy to apply, one step solution consisting of self-adhesive, strong, rubberized, crystal clear patches designed to instantly seal air leaks in all types of PVC plastic inflatable boats.

Q: What quantities are Inflatable Patches & Repairs offered in?

A: We offer two (2) pack and four (4) pack patches.

Q: What size is the patch?

A: Each patch is 3″ x 4″.

Q: What colors can I get the inflatable patch in?

A: The patches are available in crystal clear.

Q: How is this different from Flex Tape?

A: This product is designed for use on PVC plastic inflatable boats. It is not designed to be applied to a wet surface or used underwater.

Q: What surfaces are best for this product?

A: All smooth PVC plastic surfaces such as air mattresses, inflatable toys, pool toys, rafts/floats, inflatable pools, exercise balls, water beds, pool liners, inflatable chairs, floating drink coolers, bouncy castles, inflatable yards and holiday decorations and more.

Q: Can I use this to repair a rough, textured or velvety surface?

A: No, this product is designed to be used on smooth surfaces.

Q: Can I use this product to repair a car or bike tire?

A: No, this product is not designed for tire repair.

Q: Can I use the inflatable patch to mend a seam?

A: YES, suture repair requires careful preparation and application.

Q: Can I use this on a wet surface or under water?

A: No, this product is designed to be applied to a clean, dry surface.

Q: Is the inflatable Flex Seal Patch & Repair UV resistant?

A: Yes, it is UV resistant and VOC free.

Q: Are there any best practice tips I should know about?

A: Flex Seal Inflatable Patches should be applied to a clean, dry surface free of grease, dirt and oil.

Apply firm pressure when applying and ensure there are no wrinkles or air bubbles between the patch and the repaired surface.

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Welcome to our FAQ section

To jump to a specific product, select an option below:

Flex paste

Flex Glue

flex tape

Flex Seal fluid

Flex Seal Spray

Flex shot

Frequently asked questions about FLEX PASTE

Q: Is it important to read ALL the instructions before using/opening my Flex Paste?

A: YES… To understand the best way to apply, use and preserve your Flex Paste it is important that you READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS before use.

Q: What is Flexpaste?

A: Flex Paste is a super thick gummed paste that sticks to the surface and instantly fills large gaps, cracks and holes. Once dry, Flex Paste turns into a strong, flexible, waterproof, rubberized coating that seals out air, water and moisture on a wide variety of surfaces and items.

Q: What sizes and colors can I buy Flex Paste in?

A: Flex Paste is offered in black or white and is available in the following sizes:

9 fl. oz. (266 ml) cartridge (cartridge required)

1 pound (454 g) jar

3 lbs. (1.36 kg) tub

Q: What surfaces can I use Flex Paste on?

A: You can use Flex Paste on a variety of surfaces including wood, glass, tile, concrete, aluminum, metal, brick, stucco, masonry, copper, fabric, fiberglass, ceramic, porcelain, natural stone, roofing, PVC, EIFS, EPDM, CSPE, Hypalon polyurethanes and much more.

Q: Can I use Flex Paste on plastic and rubber surfaces?

A: Flex Paste sticks to a variety of surfaces. However, it may not adhere to certain plasticized or rubber surfaces. We recommend testing on a small, inconspicuous area before use.

Q: What is the opacity of Flex Paste?

A: One pound of Flex Paste yields approximately 3.05 m (10 linear ft) by 5.08 cm (2 inches) wide with a layer thickness of approximately 1/16 inch (0.16 cm).

Q: Can I use Flex Paste on a wet surface or under water?

A: YES, Flex Paste can be applied to dry or wet surfaces and even underwater. It does not dissolve or wash away and dries even under water. For best results, apply a generous amount to surface with firm pressure. It helps push out the water and allows better contact with the surface during application. Etching the surface can help with adhesion on both wet and dry surfaces.

Q: What projects can I use Flex Paste on?

A: Flex Paste is perfect for DIY projects, home improvement projects, arts and crafts, hobbies and more! Use it to seal cracks, repair your roof, winterize your home, plumbing repairs, car or boat repairs, pool and spa repairs and more.

Q: Can I use Flex Paste as a sealer?

A: YES, it is an excellent waterproof sealant. Flex Paste can be used on windows, doors, vents, thresholds and more. It forms a waterproof barrier that seals out air and moisture. Use Flexpaste to prevent flood damage. It can even be used to fill large voids to keep insects and rodents out of your home.

Q: Can I use this for drinking water, rain barrel, aquarium, etc.?

A: Flex Paste has not been tested for safe use in drinking water sources or near plants and animals.

Q: How do I apply Flex Paste?

A: Use a spatula, trowel, or similar tool to remove a smooth, even layer of material from the top of the tub. Scooping deep into the tub can create air pockets that can dry out the Flex Paste. Apply a generous amount with a gentle stroking motion (see label directions).

Q: Can I smooth or edit it after applying?

A: Depending on the temperature, humidity or thickness of the layer, Flex Paste can be worked within 15-30 minutes after the first application. It will feel dry in about 2 hours and fully cure in 24 to 48 hours. Flex Paste gets stronger over time.

Q: How do I preserve Flex Paste?

A: Flex Paste will begin to harden upon exposure to air, moisture and moisture. There is a protective film on the surface of the Flex Paste to ensure a fresh and usable product. This protective film helps keep air, moisture and moisture out of the tub. DO NOT THROW THE PROTECTIVE FILM OR SILICA GEL PACK!

Always replace the protective film and silica gel packet after each use.

Start by pressing the foil towards the center of the product’s surface and continue to push outwards, keeping the foil in constant contact with the flex paste.

Make sure that no air pockets have formed between the foil and the Flex Paste.

Once you reach the rim of the tub, press the foil around the inside perimeter with the excess foil facing up.

Replace the silica gel pack and attach the lid.

Always remove any dry material or skin that has formed on the surface before use. Do not mix dry and fresh Flex Paste in the tub.

Q: I lost my protective film. What should I do?

A: Cut a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil that is 1/2″ larger than the opening of the Flex-Paste container, all around. Use it in place of the protective film after each use.

Q: How long should I wait before applying a second coat of Flex Paste?

A: Allow 24 hours to cure before applying additional coats if needed.

Q: How long does it take for the product to fully cure?

A: Depending on the layer thickness, the product needs 24 – 48 hours to fully cure. Temperature and humidity also affect the curing process. Humid environments will cure the product faster than dry environments. If the treated area is still damp or soft, it will take longer to set.

Q: Does Flex Paste remain flexible after it is fully cured?

A: YES, Flex Paste dries to a strong, flexible gum that will expand and contract with the surfaces it is adhered to.

Q: Will Flex Paste shrink?

A: NO, Flex Paste will not shrink, crack or peel.

Q: Can Flex Paste be painted?

A: YES, once fully cured it can be painted any color.

Q: Can Flex Paste be sanded?

A: Flex Paste dries into a waterproof, flexible rubber, unlike putty or caulk. Therefore, sanding after the Flex Paste has cured may not be the best option. Rather than sanding, we recommend using a putty knife, trowel or similar tool to smooth the surface of the Flex Paste to the desired finish. You can even add designs and patterns to Flex Paste to create unique artistic textures.

Q: Is Flex Paste chemical, UV and mildew resistant?

A: YES, once fully cured, Flex Paste is UV, mildew and chemical resistant.

Q: Does it have an odor?

A: Flex Paste has a slight odor during application but will dissipate as it cures.

Q: How do I remove flexpaste?

A: Do not use water to clean Flex Paste. Flex Paste can be cleaned with a dry cloth before curing. If necessary, you can remove most residues with acetone or mineral spirits. Application tools can also be cleaned with a dry cloth and, if necessary, with acetone or mineral spirits. Once fully cured, Flex Paste can be removed with a sharp tool such as a chisel or spatula. However, removal may not be possible without damaging the surface.

Q: Can I dilute Flex Paste?

A: NO, Flex Paste is a ready to use product. Do not dilute with solvents or water.

Q: Can I use this to repair a gas tank?

A: We do not recommend using Flex Paste to seal gas tanks or other containers with flammable liquids.

Q: Can Flex Paste be used with electrical cords?

A: Flex Paste has not been tested for this application and does not have a UL rating.

Q: At what temperatures can I apply Flex Paste?

A: Flex Paste can be applied over a wide temperature range from -17.7°C to 65.5°C. Once applied and fully cured, it can withstand a wider temperature range from -40°C to 93.3°C.

Q: How long does Flex Paste last?

A: Flex Paste will last for years with proper use, care and maintenance.

Q: What is the maximum pressure Flex Paste can withstand?

A: Various factors can affect the maximum pressure that Flex Paste can withstand. Depending on the thickness of the layer applied, the type of surface it is applied to, the size of the crack or hole to be sealed, Flex Paste will withstand a wide range of hydrostatic pressure. Always wait for the Flex Paste to fully cure before testing.

Q: Can I store Flex Paste in a hot garage or outside?

A: In order to extend the life of the product, we recommend replacing the film and silica package after each use and closing the lid tightly. If possible, store your Flex Paste in a cool, dry place.

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FLEX ADHESIVE FAQ

Q: How many meters can I get out of a tube of Flex Glue?

A: Depending on the thickness of the bead, Flex Glue offers:

MINI 0.75 oz. (white): up to 3.75 linear feet

4 oz. Squeeze Tubing (Clear): Up to 20 linear feet

6 ounces. Pinch Tubing (White): Up to 30 linear feet

9 oz. Pro Formula (Clear): Up to 45 linear feet

10 ounces. Pro Formula (white): up to 50 linear feet

Q: Can Flex Glue be used underwater?

A: Yes, Flex Glue can be applied underwater and it will even cure underwater.

Q: Can it be used as a seal?

A: Flex Glue is an excellent sealant. It can fill large cavities and is great for applications with uneven surfaces.

Q: Can Flex Glue be painted?

A: Yes, once fully cured it can be painted.

Q: What is the difference between Flex Glue in the Squeeze Tube and the Pro Formula Cartridge?

A: All sizes have amazing instant grab technology, and our Pro Formula has even more instant grab.

Q: Is Flex Glue resistant to mold and mildew?

A: Yes, it is.

Q: Is Flex Glue UV resistant?

A: Yes, it is.

Q: Can it be used on porous surfaces?

A: Yes, Flex Glue is designed to be super thick. It adheres to porous substrates such as brick, concrete, mortar and much more.

Q: Can I smooth or edit it after applying?

A: Yes, Flex Glue can be edited or repositioned within 10 minutes of initial application. It will feel dry in 1 hour.

Q: How long does it take for the product to fully cure?

A: Flex Glue fully cures in 24-48 hours and reaches its maximum strength in seven days.

Q: At what temperatures can Flex Glue be applied?

A: For ease of use, we recommend using in temperatures between -17.7°C – 65.5°C.

Q: What temperatures does Flex Glue withstand?

A: Once applied, it can withstand a wide range of temperatures from -40°C to 93.3°C.

Q: After using Flex Glue, how do I clean before it cures?

A: Flex Glue can be cleaned with a dry cloth before curing. If necessary, most residues can be removed with isopropyl alcohol.

Q: Can I remove Flex Glue after drying?

A: Once dry, Flex Glue can be removed with sharp tools similar to a chisel. However, it may not be possible to separate joined materials without damaging the surfaces.

Q: Can I use it for drinking water, rain barrel, fish tank, etc.?

A: Flex Glue has not been tested on potable water sources.

Q: Does Flex Glue Clear retain its clarity once fully cured?

A: Yes, it dries to a crystal clear bond.

Q: Will Flex Glue shrink during the curing process?

A: Flex Glue will not shrink, crack or peel.

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FLEX BAND FAQ

This content was previously featured on the Hot Tub Works website. Leslie’s is proud to partner with Hot Tub Works to bring you this helpful content on lesliespool.com.

A lot of people ask the question “how much does it cost to fix a hot tub,” but it’s like asking how much it costs to fix a car. The answer is the same in both cases, “it depends”. That’s because the cost of repairing a hot tub is directly related to what’s wrong with it.

So – what’s wrong with your hot tub? Many hot tub problems can be fixed for less than $100 in spa parts, but buying larger units can cost you $500 or more. Let’s look at the costs of some common spa repairs and equipment replacements.

Cost of repairing a spa leak

DIY: Depends on where the leak is and what is actually damaged, but it could be a leaking pump fitting or shaft seal, a leaking filter o-ring, or nozzle seals, all of which can be replaced very inexpensively yourself. With the exception of major freeze damage, most spa leaks are easy to find and fix when you can reach!

PRO: For the leak detection itself, probably 1-2 hours or a few hundred dollars. Again, the cost of repairing the spa leak will depend on where and what is leaking, but in most cases, spa leaks are repaired for less than $500. Larger leaks buried deep in the foam or under the spa are more likely to cost $1000, and major freeze damage could be two thousand or more.

Cost of repairing a hot tub pump

Do It Yourself: Most jet pump (main therapy pump) repairs are either a wet end replacement for about $65 or a motor replacement for about $200. You can also just replace the entire jet pump for $200-$300. Recirculation pumps, also called circulation pumps, that run at low speed most of the time will cost $150 to $200 to replace. Other spa pump parts like impellers, gaskets and o-rings are quite inexpensive.

PRO: Having a spa rep repair or replace your hot tub pump is much easier and safer, but it also costs more money. Professionally installed hot tub pumps cost around $500, and minor pump issues like leaking or squeaking spa pumps should cost around $350.

Cost of repairing a hot tub heater

DIY: If your hot tub heater trips the breaker, replace the element for about $30 or the complete Balboa style spa heater, pipe and all for about $120. Titanium spa heaters from Sundance and Hot Spring are $320. If it just isn’t heating up enough, it could be a temperature sensor, high limit, pressure or flow switch, most parts of which are $20-$50 for spa heaters. Your upper controller may issue error codes to help troubleshoot a spa heater.

PRO: The last spa heater bill I remember was just under $500 for a diagnostic call and an additional trip to install the new spa heater. If done in one trip, the cost can be more than $350 for either just the element or the entire flow-through tube heater. Proprietary titanium heaters from Sundance or Watkins cost more to purchase and can cost $750 once installed.

Cost of repairing a spa light

DIY: A hot tub light is usually LED or halogen. Spa light bulbs or LEDs can be purchased in the $15 to $72 range depending on size. Whole spa lighting kits with transformers and small bulbs average $25.

PRO: How many hot tub types does it take to change a lightbulb? Probably only one, but it has to be paid for. A call to spa light repair service would likely cost around $150 for parts and labor. To save money, fix the spa light so they know what parts to bring.

Cost to Replace a Spa Ozonator: Hot tub ozonators cost $70-$125.

Cost of replacing a spa blower: Hot tub blowers range from $70 to $110 and check valves are around $15.

Cost to replace a hot tub cover: Spa covers range from $250 to $450 depending on size and options.

Cost of replacing a spa pack/checks: Digital spa packs average $750. Control systems cost an average of $450.

Spa Jet Replacement Cost: The cost of replacing a spa jet varies on average from $20 to $50.

Spa Circuit Board Replacement Cost: Hot tub circuit boards range from $200 to $600 with an average cost of $300.

Cost to run a hot tub?

Most people spend about $250 a year on average, some years more, some less. Spa filters, spa covers, chemicals, parts and accessories, all the costs of running a hot tub average about $250 per year, not including electricity. Ten years from now you can expect to spend around $2500 on the maintenance and care of your hot tub, along with the occasional equipment replacement. Some spend less, some more!

Cost to Buy a New Hot Tub?

Like cars, hot tubs and spas come in a wide range of prices. Top of the line Cadillac spa brands like Jacuzzi and Hot Spring range in price from $12,000 to $15,000. Lesser-known brands range from $9,000 to $12,000, and online hot tubs can be purchased for $4,000 to $7,000. Some spend less, some more!

Happy hot tubbin’

Daniel Lara

jacuzzi works

Owning a hot tub is one of life’s luxuries. But at some point, every hot tub owner asks, “What do I do if my hot tub is leaking?”

Here are the steps I follow after owning and fixing leaks many times:

If you have a leaking hot tub, first remove the panel to locate the leak. The most likely causes are a rubber gasket on the heater connections, a cracked pipe, or a loose nozzle. If it is not possible to get to the leak site, use leak fixation products for small leaks or waterproof epoxy putty for larger leaks.

But there’s still a lot more to do to fix hot tub leaks!

So today we’re going to show you everything you need to know about leaky hot tubs. We will go through the causes, fixes, and telltale signs.

We know this is going to seem like a lot of information, so we’re going to break it all down into easy-to-read sections for you.

These sections will look like this:

Feel free to jump around as you please, but it’s definitely best to pay attention to each individual section.

Because everything you can know about leaks is your first line of defense against them.

With all of that said, we know how tricky leaks can be, so let’s jump straight to the facts.

I just installed the new hot tub heater. Hoping for no leaks! pic.twitter.com/KlRY1TNC53 – Chip Fox 🦊 (@chipfoxx) January 24, 2016

What Causes a Hot Tub to Leak?

A broken or worn rubber gasket on either end of the heater connector is a common cause of spa leaks. But it could also be a loose connection on one of the nozzles or plumbing, many of which are encased in spray foam, making them difficult to identify.

It may seem simple, water in and water out. But there are a lot more moving parts than you might first think.

In this section we will show you all the possible reasons why a hot tub can leak. Let’s start by reviewing the main parts of a hot tub and how they function.

There’s a chance your leak is being caused by a bug in one of these areas:

So what causes leaks? Most often it is a failure of a rubber gasket or the PVC glue holding two pieces of pipe together.

The water flowing through the equipment is often in excess of 104°F. That’s also a lot of heat being applied to everything, often around the clock.

So normal wear and tear is to blame. Luckily, most of them are easy to fix, which we’ll cover below.

Of course, age always matters, as hot tubs don’t last forever.

So if you’re wondering if it’s time to replace or repair your hot tub, be sure to read a recent article I published. In it, I cover the lifespan of hot tubs, including all the different types.

Just click this link to see it on my website now.

Oh man ! Our second #Hydropool hot tub got a leak! pic.twitter.com/ol8c92aQdp – Jean Christina Keen (@JeanChatterbox2) February 18, 2017

How do I find a leak in my hot tub?

To find a leak in a hot tub, remove the side panels and note where the water is pooling on the floor. This will be right below the leak. If you see wet foam and the source is unclear, the leak is probably in the sprayed foam, making it very problematic to fix other than with liquid fix-a-leak products.

But in this section, we’re going to break down all of those steps for you.

So, before we dive into some popular search methods, let’s lay out the areas you need to check:

A leak can come from any of these areas. Luckily we have some great methods for you to follow for each area if this seems overwhelming.

Our nearly $10,000 @bullfrogspas hot tub is less than a year old and already leaking. It now stands on blocks, and pilot holes have been drilled in the lower base to locate the leak. Next step is sawing in the ground to find the leak… Tell me why isn’t this ruining my hot tub? pic.twitter.com/s9CXtAXXK9 – Greg Nelson (@iastater09) September 17, 2021

Why is my hot tub leaking from the bottom?

Ultimately, gravity will cause most hot tub leaks to pool at the bottom. The source of the leak can still be from the nozzles, a cracked PVC pipe, or a worn rubber gasket in the heater fittings. But the leak could also be a crack in the hull or a loose light fixture.

Unfortunately, a hot tub can leak in many places.

Because of this, there is no single answer to this question. But ultimately, no matter where the leak is, you will eventually see it on the floor around the bottom of your hot tub.

Here are some of the most common reasons:

The Light – If your hot tub has a light at the bottom, this light housing may loosen a bit. If this happens, there may be a leak at the bottom

If your hot tub has a light at the bottom, this light housing may loosen a bit. If this happens, it can cause a leak at the bottom. The Nozzles – If any of the nozzles are leaking or the connections between the pipe and the jacket are leaking, this will result in water spilling out of the bottom

– If one of the nozzles is leaking or the connections between the tube and the shell are leaking, water will come out of the bottom. The shell – a crack in the shell can be the cause. Cracks on the top are easy to spot. However, if you have a crack under the water, you may not know it’s there without draining the water. A peek behind the fairing may not be able to tell either, due to insulation and spray foam

– a crack in the shell can be the culprit. Cracks on the top are easy to spot. However, if you have a crack under the water, you may not know it’s there without draining the water. A look behind the fairing cannot see this due to insulation and spray-on foam. Replacing them is the only option when they fail

We’ll go into fixes for each of these issues below. But troubleshooting to find out which area is the cause is crucial.

Yeh!!!!! Please tell me the hot tub didn’t have a leak in this weather 🤦 pic.twitter.com/muR7lpf8gl – Jodi B (@lttlteapot) February 20, 2019

How do I fix a leak in my hot tub?

To fix a hot tub leak, first identify the source. For leaks smaller than 1/8 inch, use a liquid fix-a-leak product. Worn rubber seals or cracked PVC pipes need to be replaced. Small cracks in the acrylic shell can be patched or waterproof epoxy can be used in inconspicuous areas.

After diagnosing the problem and knowing where to look, you need to fix the leak.

Having fixed many leaks over the years of owning hot tubs I have had to deal with most of them. And since I’m on a budget, I do most of the work myself.

Here I break down each area prone to leaks and how to deal with each:

A pump leak

The pump pushes the water coming out of the whirlpool into the heating pipe.

The heated water then exits the heater and flows back into the tub. It circulates constantly and occasionally heats up depending on the settings you have on your system.

The most likely places for a pump leak are the fittings at both ends. It could be a worn seal or a cracked pipe.

I cover both of these types of repairs below.

If you need to replace the pump

If the pump itself is leaking at the main body and not one of the fittings, it’s probably time to replace the pump itself.

I’ve done this myself and I’ll outline the following steps:

Purchase a replacement pump that is approximately the same capacity as yours (it doesn’t have to be the same brand). Make sure they are the same diameter fittings on each side (2 inch PVC is most common). Also make sure the inlet and outlet connectors are in the same position as the pump you have now.

(it doesn’t have to be the same brand). Make sure they are the same diameter fittings on each side (2 inch PVC is most common). Also make sure the inlet and outlet connectors are in the same position as the pump you have now. Turn off the main switch as you are dealing with electricity

Either drain the water or, if your hot tub has shut-off valves, simply close them while they are on either side of the pump.

or if your hot tub has gate valves (shut off valves), simply close them while they are on either side of the pump. Disconnect the power cable to the old pump from the control box. Some brands simply plug into the side of the control box, making this easier. Others may require you to open the control box panel and unscrew the wires from the inside (again, make sure the master switch is off).

Some brands simply plug into the side of the control box, making this easier. Others may require you to open the control box panel and unscrew the wires from the inside (again, make sure the master switch is off). Loosen the fittings – Using round-bar clamps, gently turn the fitting nuts on each end of the pump counterclockwise when facing them

Using round-bar clamps, gently turn the union nuts at each end of the pump counterclockwise when facing them. Check the seals and replace if necessary. If the new pump came with gaskets, just use those.

If the new pump came with gaskets, just use those. Remove the old pump

Insert the new pump and reverse the above steps to connect it

A good replacement pump is this 5hp pump from Waterway on Amazon (click here to see current price on Amazon).

A broken shell

If your shell has small cracks, don’t panic. Tiny stress fractures are not uncommon. These can be caused over time, especially if your hot tub is not on a perfectly level concrete slab.

After all, filled with water and people, the thing weighs thousands of pounds. So a little displacement here and there puts a lot of pressure on the acrylic shell.

The best way to repair a small crack in the acrylic shell is as follows:

Get a Plast-Aid Acrylic Spa Repair Kit (click to see it on Amazon)

(Click to view on Amazon) Drill a small hole at each end of the crack with a drill bit only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from propagating and getting bigger

Use a drill bit that is only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from spreading and growing Mix the dry and liquid spa repair glue in a cup; How much depends on how big the crack is

; how much depends on how big the crack is Add a small amount of acrylic paint to the glue to match the color of your shell (optional)

to match the color of your bowl (optional) Distribute a small amount into the crack and 2 holes

Allow 15 minutes to set, fuse and harden

Can be gently sanded and/or polished smooth

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE ACRYLIC REPAIR KIT ON AMAZON

Unaffiliated Hot Tub Home Care offers specialized hot tub leak repair services to ensure you can enjoy your hot tub for years to come. #HotTubLeak #HotTubLeakRepair https://t.co/s06zKfuY0m pic.twitter.com/FWpjuHy8zO – Unaffiliated Hot Tub Home Care (@UnaffiliatedC) October 22, 2019

The heating system

A heating element will fail over time. But that usually results in it not heating up or not heating up to the right temperature.

The heater system is most likely developing leaks at the gasket and split nut assembly on either side of the heater tube.

This repair can be done yourself for about $20, and I cover that in the section directly below.

seals

Rubber seals fail over time.

This is because they are not only 100% in contact with water, but also with hot water.

In my experience, the gaskets on either side of your heater pipe are the most prone to failure. Luckily these are fairly easy to replace (I just did this to mine yesterday).

If you have one that has failed (like me) it’s a good idea to replace both as they are likely of the same age and the other is about to fail as well.

Here’s how I replaced the gaskets and nuts on my hot tub:

Either drain the water or, if your spa has shut-off valves, simply close them on each side of the control box that houses the heater tube

or, if your hot tub has shut-off valves, simply close them on each side of the control box where the heater pipe is located. Hand loosen the split nut by turning it to the left (when looking straight ahead). The split nut is usually a round black piece of plastic that threads onto the end of a pipe. However, there are 2 halves instead of just one piece. You tighten the 2 halves together with screws

(if you look straight ahead). The split nut is usually a round black piece of plastic that threads onto the end of a pipe. However, there are 2 halves instead of just one piece. You tighten the two halves together with screws. Once the split nut is rotated so you can access both screws, use a screwdriver (usually Phillips) to loosen the screws and set them aside

, use a screwdriver (usually Phillips) to loosen the screws and set them aside. Remove the split nut (may need to be turned further).

The seal is in the split nut. Remove and inspect for wear or damage

Remove it and check for wear or if it is broken. While you can easily replace the gasket, I also replaced the split nut as if it was probably a little worn as well. You might be able to find this at a pool/hot tub supply store, but probably not in places like Home Depot. I couldn’t find my exact one on Amazon either. So I bought mine at SpaDepot.

, I also replaced the split nut and felt that it was probably a little worn as well. You might be able to find this at a pool/hot tub supply store, but probably not in places like Home Depot. I couldn’t find my exact one on Amazon either. So I bought mine at SpaDepot. Insert the new gasket (it has an edge that pushes into the pipe that connects to the heater

(It has a burr that pushes into the pipe that connects to the heater. Put one half of the split nut on, then the other half

, and then the other half Tighten the bolts connecting the split nut halves

Hand tighten the split nut onto the pipe by turning clockwise.

Repeat the process for the other side of the heating tube

It’s a good idea to refill the tub before replacing the trim in case you need to tighten the split nuts further. I found I just needed to tighten a bit more, and I used a large round vise to do it (gently since the split nut is plastic).

Do you have a leaking hot tub? Try checking the lines, tubes and nozzles. 💧 In some cases, all you need to do is tighten the connection or reseal the leak. 💦 pic.twitter.com/B5OqcVSLus – Quick Spa Parts (@QuickSpaParts) December 1, 2020

Can a crack in a hot tub shell be repaired?

Yes. Small cracks in a hot tub shell can be repaired. For attachment, drill a small hole at each end of the crack to prevent it from spreading. Then apply an acrylic patch. This can be mixed with acrylic paint to match the shell colour. After drying, it can be sanded and polished smooth.

As we mentioned in the previous section, a hot tub shell can definitely be repaired. The best way to repair a small crack in the acrylic shell is as follows:

Get a Plast-Aid Acrylic Spa Repair Kit (click to see it on Amazon)

(Click to view on Amazon) Drill a small hole at each end of the crack with a drill bit only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from propagating and getting bigger

Use a drill bit that is only slightly larger than the crack itself. This will prevent the crack from spreading and growing Mix the dry and liquid spa repair glue in a cup; How much depends on how big the crack is

; how much depends on how big the crack is Add a small amount of acrylic paint to the glue to match the color of your shell (optional)

to match the color of your bowl (optional) Distribute a small amount into the crack and 2 holes

Allow 15 minutes to set, fuse and harden

Can be gently sanded and/or polished smooth

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE ACRYLIC REPAIR KIT ON AMAZON

What if the shell is too far away?

For larger tears or a missing piece, you can use the above procedure in larger quantities.

Just remember that adhesive, no matter how strong, is not designed to hold water under pressure, so really large gaps may require professional help.

How to fix if your hot tub is only leaking when the jets are on

If your hot tub is leaking when the jets are on, in most cases it is either a small crack or a worn rubber gasket.

While it’s always ideal to replace a worn seal or a cracked pipe, the nozzles are often encased in spray foam. That makes them really hard to get to.

So before I dig out the foam and crawl into the enclosed hot tub area, here’s what I’ll try first.

I use Marlig Fix-a-Leak (click to see on Amazon)

This stuff is pretty amazing and I’ve used it many times for small leaks that would otherwise be difficult to fix.

It works great. It’s also an Amazon’s Choice product with some great reviews.

This is a liquid that you simply pour into the suction area. No need to drain the water before OR after use. Just give him 24-48 hours to see if he fixes the leak.

Here are the steps to use:

Remove the filters and set them aside

Shake the bottle really well

Pour about 1/4 of the bottle (if you have the 32oz bottle) into the area where the filters were (it will be sucked into the pipes here

(if you have the 32oz bottle) into the area where the filters were (it’s going to be sucked into the plumbing here. Turn on all the jets to make it move through the hot tub’s plumbing for 6 hours

Turn off the system (at the breaker would be the easiest way)

(On the breaker would be the easiest way) Just walk away and leave for 24-48 hours

Check again after 24-48 hours for signs of leakage

If there is no leak, replace the filters, check the water chemistry and adjust if necessary

Check water chemistry and adjust if necessary. Wait another 48 hours before using

If the leak has slowed but not resolved, repeat the process

Fix-a-Leak is heavier than water, so it naturally sinks to the deepest point.

Most often this is where the leak is as that is where the water pressure will move. It can fill cracks up to 1/8″ in diameter, so it’s perfect for tiny cracks that would be difficult to replace.

CLICK HERE TO SEE FIX-A-LEAK ON AMAZON

How to fix cracked hot tub pipes

A ruptured pipe in a hot tub should be replaced. If you have gate valves, close them and loosen the fittings on either side of the crack. Replace with a new piece. Glued pieces need to be cut out with a saw. Waterproof epoxy can work on small cracks, but it may not last as long as it is replaced.

When it comes to installing a hot tub, there are many pipes involved. While most pipes are extremely durable, if one of them ruptures, you should know how to fix it.

In the event of a pipe rupture, the ideal solution is of course replacement. Unfortunately, due to the location and age of the hot tub, this is not always possible (parts may be more difficult to find).

While it seems odd to me, PVC pipe (which makes up much of hot tub plumbing) is not universal.

Think of them like cell phone chargers in 2002; everyone can be a little different. Even if you find a 2″ piece, if it’s threaded, the thread might not be the same as your thread.

Luckily, there are steps you can take to fix a ruptured pipe if you can’t replace it.

To replace a cracked pipe

If it’s a simple part that’s easy to access and easy to replace, simply:

Drain the hot tub

Remove the cracked pipe (it could just be screwed on making it easier to remove). If it’s glued, you’ll need to use a hacksaw to cut it out

(it could simply be screwed on, making it easy to remove). If it is glued, you need to cut it out with a hacksaw. Replace with a new PVC pipe of the same size

If it is a glued in piece, glue it in and let it set fully before filling with water (usually 2 hours).

Apply epoxy putty

Another way to repair pipes, and if those pipes are PVC works even better, is to use an epoxy putty such as JB Water Weld (click to see on Amazon).

This stuff is great as it can be used literally when wet or even underwater!

However, it will not work if the water is actively spurting out of the leak at high pressure. A few drops, no problem.

However, if the leak is significant, drain the water before applying the putty.

How to use it:

Break off a small piece (about 1″) and mix thoroughly with your hands (I like to wear latex gloves). Epoxy works by combining the two materials

(I like to wear latex gloves). Epoxy works by combining the two materials. Squeeze it over the leak and spread it out to conform to the area (if this is behind your panels it obviously doesn’t matter what it looks like).

(Obviously if this is behind your panels it doesn’t matter what it looks like.) It sets in 25 minutes and hardens in 1 hour

If the JB Weld is applied to a conspicuous area, just know that it can be sanded and painted. But it helps if you apply it smooth and clean from the start.

Here’s a picture of JB Water Weld I used to fix two leaks.

The JB Weld is the white putty material you see spread out on either end of this small section. Since this is behind the fairing, it didn’t matter how pretty it looked.

But it works!

CLICK HERE TO SEE JB WATER WELD ON AMAZON

Using a flexible coupling clamp

Sometimes there’s just a small leak where two pipes meet, but getting those pipes out and replacing them isn’t easy.

What I did once when this happened to me was use what’s called a flexible coupler clamp (click to see on Amazon).

It’s a rubber boot (2″ is typical for many hot tubs, but I had an older one that was 1.5″).

It slides over each end where the 2 tubes meet and then you have a stainless steel clamp that sits on each end that you tighten with a screwdriver. It worked great for me and was MUCH easier than swapping both tubes.

Here are the steps:

Ideally, drain the hot tub (otherwise you could get sprayed in the process)

(Otherwise you could get sprayed in the process) Disconnect the 2 pipes where they meet

Slide the rubber (with the clips released) over one end

Push the 2 pipes that are touching

Slide the rubber back to the other tube so the center of the rubber boot is roughly where the two pieces meet

Tighten (by hand) the 2 screws that control the clamps. Since you’re dealing with water under pressure, you want it to be tight. But obviously not so tight that you risk cracking the pipe

Since you’re dealing with water under pressure, you want it to be tight. But obviously not so tight that you risk breaking the pipe. It probably makes sense to refill the spa and see if further tightening is needed before replacing the plate

CLICK HERE TO CHECK THIS ON AMAZON (also available in multiple sizes)

Did I cover everything you wanted to know about fixing hot tub leaks?

Hot tubs are excellent luxury devices, and the memories you make in them will last forever.

Even though hot tubs are more durable than ever, that doesn’t mean they’re perfect.

Sometimes, no matter what you do, you will end up with a leak. Therefore, in this article, we have examined all the most common types of leaks. We investigated what causes them. But more importantly, a variety of ways to fix them.

Finally, we answered the question what do I do if my spa leaks?

We hope this was helpful. Now that you know all of your options, you are definitely ready to deal with any leaks that may arise from your hot tub.

Confused About Hot Tub Chemicals?

Hot tub chemicals can be confusing. How much to add, which to buy and are they all really needed?

I take out the confusion in a recent article.

Not only do I cover what chemicals you need, but also the ones you don’t need that are a waste of money. Then I also explore the chemicals that are best for sensitive skin and how to avoid a hot tub rash.

Just click the link to read this on my website now.

How to repair a PVC pipe with rubber or silicone repair tape

Rubber or silicone repair tape is a thick, durable tape that sticks to itself. It is stretchy and a little rubbery so it can be stretched. Repair tape works best for cracks in a pipe rather than leaky connections.

Cleaning and Drying the Pipe Wipe the pipe or fitting with a clean rag to thoroughly clean and dry it. Repair tape has a better chance of success if it can bond directly to the PVC plastic. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Wrap with Repair Tape Cut a piece of repair tape and wrap it very tightly around the leaking PVC joint or pipe, extending the wraps well past the repair area on either side. An advantage of the repair tape is that it can be spirally wound a significant distance in the event of a longitudinal tear in a pipe. However, it can be difficult to fit in tight spots where you may need to cut a piece of tape and carefully thread it around the pipe. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Test the Repair Run water through the drain and observe the repair area for leaks. Repair tape should be viewed as a temporary solution; You should replace the failed section of pipe or fitting as soon as possible. The Spruce / Kevin Norris

How to repair a PVC pipe with repair epoxy

Repair epoxies designed to bond to PVC and other plastics are commonly available in both putty and liquid (syringe) form. This is the best solution for leaky fittings, but it also works for cracked pipes.

Clean and Dry the Pipe Use a clean rag to thoroughly clean the pipe or fitting and make sure it is completely dry. The epoxy bonds best with a completely dry and clean pipe. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Mix the repair epoxy Mix the epoxy patching material according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Virtually all of these products are two-part formulas that require you to mix a catalyst/hardener into an epoxy to create an activated paving material. Many products come in syringe form that self-mix when you depress the plungers on side-by-side connected tubing. These products typically create a liquid epoxy material that is dabbed or spread onto the repair area directly from the syringe applicator. Other repair epoxies require hand mixing to create a putty-like repair material that can be applied with a craft stick or disposable spatula. Liquid epoxy is thinner than putty and may be better suited for leaks in tight spaces such as B. where drain pipes pass through holes in bolts or other frame members. You only have a limited amount of time to work with the epoxy. Once mixed you can apply it directly to the area that needs repairing. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Apply the epoxy. Thoroughly coat the area of ​​the pipe where the leak is occurring. For leaky joints, it’s usually best to apply a bead of epoxy around the entire joint. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Allow to Cure, Then Test Allow the epoxy to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Most types kick in in about 25 minutes, but can take an hour or more to reach full strength. After the epoxy has fully cured, run water through the drain and observe the repair area to ensure there is no leak. The Spruce / Kevin Norris

How to fasten a PVC pipe with fiberglass foil

Fiberglass sheeting is fiberglass fabric coated with water-activated resin. It is best for patching leaks in the walls of a pipe rather than leaking joints.

Cleaning and drying the whistle Use a clean, dry cloth to wipe residue and moisture off the whistle. The patchwork adheres best when it is tight against the pipe and free of debris. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Cutting and Applying Foil Cut a piece of fiberglass foil to fit around the repair area. Dampen the fiberglass cloth and then wrap it tightly around the pipe over the repair area. For best results, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and try to extend the wrap at least 2 inches on each side of the leaking area. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Allow the film to cure Allow the activated resin in the fiberglass film to fully cure – this will take 15 to 20 minutes for most products. The Spruce / Kevin Norris

How to repair a PVC pipe with rubber and hose clamps

A thick piece of rubber and a couple of hose clamps make for a makeshift fix that you can apply without having to go to the store to buy accessories. If the leak is localized and not split down the length of a joint or piece of pipe, you can usually get a piece of rubber around it. An old bicycle tube is a good source for patching rubber.

This repair works best on smooth sections of pipe where the rubber can make full contact with the pipe surface. It doesn’t work well on contours or on edges where fittings meet the pipe.

Cleaning the Tube Use a clean, dry cloth to thoroughly wipe and dry the tube around the repair area. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Cut a Rubber Patch Using scissors or a utility knife, cut a patch of rubber sheeting to fit around the crack in the pipe. Position the patch over the damaged area of ​​the pipe. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Installing the Hose Clamps Fully loosen a pair of worm gear hose clamps, then position them over the pipe and rubber piece. The clamps should be directly over the ends of the crack in the pipe. Tighten the hose clamps until you see the rubber compress vigorously. Properly positioned, the clamps should completely seal the crack. The Spruce / Kevin Norris Test the Repair Run water through the drain and observe the repair area for signs of leakage. Rubber patches should be considered as a stopgap measure; It is best to have the failed pipe or fitting replaced as soon as possible. The Spruce / Kevin Norris

How to replace PVC pipe or fittings

The best repair is to cut out the damaged area of ​​pipe or bad fitting and put new pipe and fitting in its place. This is the approach taken when hiring a professional plumber to do the repair, but it’s entirely doable for any do-it-yourselfer with some experience working with PVC pipe.

The process involves cutting out the bad section of pipe (or fitting) with a PVC pipe cutter, and assembling and installing a new section of pipe and fittings with solvent-based PVC glue. The connection to the existing lines is made with solvent-bonded union screws.

Convenient repair couplings are also available with union fittings already attached. You simply cut out the bad section of pipe and then install the repair coupler to the severed pipe stub with either solvent adhesive or push-in fittings (Shark-bite). These repair couplers can be particularly useful for repairing breaks in PVC irrigation lines.