How Long Do Fishing Rods Last? The 25 Correct Answer

When you use welders, you want to make sure they work, especially in the hazardous conditions that make trading possible. Not only should the equipment be of high quality, but it must also be new enough where there is a possibility that items will expire or lose effectiveness over time.

Are welding electrodes durable or do sticks go bad? Yes, welding rods can go bad depending on the rod model used and the conditions in which they are stored. Under ideal conditions, welding rods have a shelf life of around 2-3 years. Moisture has a negative effect on the durability of many rods, as does poor temperature conditions. As rods age, they can also crack or become damaged.

We discuss the different types of sticks and the conditions in which to store them to maximize the life of your welding electrodes. Electrode sticks deteriorate over long periods of time, but there are important steps you can take to ensure they last as long as possible. This will help you get the most out of your welding equipment.

Do welding rods expire?

Welding wires are the materials that act as a filler on the workpieces that you want to press together. They help conduct electricity to form the gas pool that allows the pieces of metal to metal together. Welding rods expire depending on the type of electrodes used. These electrode differences relate to their application and welding characteristics.

Causes of welding wires running off

The most common factor that causes a welding wire to drain is exposure to moisture. Keeping welding rods sealed and dry is the most effective way to ensure welding rods can be used for long periods of time. Some welding rods degrade faster than others when exposed to moisture.

These are the conditions you need to control to prevent your welding rods from draining:

Humidity: Once opened, try to keep your welding rods in a sealed container and in a dry place. The moisture will degrade the coating on the rod and can lead to poor welds. Electrodes with low hydrogen content are particularly susceptible to moisture damage.

Once opened, try to store your welding rods in a sealed container and in a dry place. The moisture will degrade the coating on the rod and can lead to poor welds. Electrodes with low hydrogen content are particularly susceptible to moisture damage. Temperature: Electrodes should be stored in warmer temperatures to remain dry and reusable once the packaging has been opened. Welding rods are often stored in a pole oven or in cabinets that stay above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. If rods get wet you can run these ovens even hotter to dry them again.

Wet 7018 vs. Dry 7018 with a Dry Rod Oven >> Watch the video below

Age: While age is less of a factor than the above two factors, the longer the rods are held the more likely they are to break or underperform. They can also be more susceptible to moisture or cold when stored for long periods of time.

Pole leakage can be prevented by providing a warm and dry environment for storage. Only take as many sticks out of the packaging as you need and try to cap the remaining sticks quickly and securely so that they last longer. There is a direct correlation between humidity and temperature for the durability of an electrode.

Types of welding rods and their expiry date

There is a wide range of electrodes, each with their own characteristics in terms of use and their ability to work for long periods of time. As a rule, welding rods last at least 3 years under ideal conditions. The lifespan of an electrode varies by material and manufacturer, but most recommend replacing it with new ones after five years.

Welding rods can be divided into consumable and non-consumable electrodes. Consumable electrodes are those that melt the rod and become filler material during the welding process.

Consumables do not melt and act as an electrical conductor to mold the two workpieces together, or a separate filler is needed.

Non-consumable electrodes usually lack durability as there is no coating or material that can be affected by external conditions. They can be easily eroded during the welding process, leading to replacement after burning off. Consumable electrodes come in a variety of types and are most affected by environmental factors affecting expiration.

Common welding rods and their durability:

Low Hydrogen Electrodes: These electrodes aim to prevent hydrogen cracking during the welding process. Electrode codes for this include EXX15, EXX16, and EXX18. E7018 is a very popular electrode that is very susceptible to moisture damage. They can last up to 5 years in sealed containers. If kept in a humid environment, they can expire in as little as six months.

These electrodes aim to prevent hydrogen cracking during the welding process. Electrode codes for this include EXX15, EXX16, and EXX18. E7018 is a very popular electrode that is very susceptible to moisture damage. They can last up to 5 years in sealed containers. If kept in a humid environment, they can expire in as little as six months. Metal Core Electrodes: These are less susceptible to moisture damage, but should still be stored and sealed to prevent external conditions from affecting the electrode. They have a shelf life of 5 years sealed and one year in another container.

These are less susceptible to moisture damage but should still be stored and sealed to prevent external conditions from affecting the electrode. They have a shelf life of 5 years sealed and one year in another container. Cored Wire Electrodes: These are filler metals that have an outer layer of metal and a center of powdered materials. The shelf life is five years in a sealed container and two years if stored elsewhere (dry and warm).

7018 bar is one of the most commonly used bars (especially for carbon steel) but also has the shortest shelf life due to moisture issues. 6013 rods are also commonly used for clean finishes and difficult weld surfaces. 6010 and 6011 are fast drying, which is often used for pipe welding. You should keep all of them in warm and dry places, especially for your 7018 as it is a low hydrogen electrode.

Related article: Different types of welding rods and their uses

What types of welding use electrodes?

Electrodes will be a key material to use in welding as they give the metal the electrical conductivity and forge your metal together. As mentioned above, there are two types of electrodes: consumable and non-consumable. Different types of welding produce unique results depending on the project and the materials used.

These are the different welding processes and the electrodes used:

Shielded Metal Arc Welding: In this method, you use a consumable electrode that allows the molten electrode to act as a weld. Flux cored electrodes can be used to reinforce the weld.

: With this method, you use a consumable electrode that allows the molten electrode to serve as a weld. Flux cored electrodes can be used to reinforce the weld. Gas Metal Arc Welding: Instead of the electrode itself shielding the weld from oxygen in the atmosphere, gas creates that protection. Consumable electrodes are still used and this is a welding technique that is versatile and used on a wide variety of metals.

: Instead of the electrode itself shielding the weld from oxygen in the atmosphere, gas creates that protection. Consumable electrodes are still used and this is a welding technique that is versatile and used on a wide variety of metals. Cored Wire Arc Welding: This is a combination of the two methods above where you use a cored wire and have a continuous wire in the welding gun. No gas is needed and you can use a variety of electrodes.

: This is a combination of the two methods above, where you use a flux core and have a continuous wire in the welding gun. No gas is needed and you can use a variety of electrodes. Gas tungsten arc welding: In contrast to the other processes, non-consumable electrodes are used in TIG welding. Gas is used as protection from oxygen and is one of the more difficult welding practices to master.

The durability of welding electrodes

While all pads should be replaced after five years, most pads in good condition should last well over 2-3 years (depending on the manufacturer’s specs). The most important thing when storing electrodes is to keep them dry and warm if you want to extend the life of the welding rods.

Consider storing wands in a wand oven, or just unwrapping the electrodes you know you’ll be using to store wand sealing that you’ll need later. The condition of the bars has a big impact on the quality of the weld, which you want to be strong and clean!

Literature Recommendations

Will the flux wire go bad | Tips for avoiding the effects of moisture contamination

Electrode care and storage

Proper care and handling of your sensor pad electrodes is extremely important when performing a bioimpedance test. Using improper, old, or dried out electrodes may cause unexpected results or error messages from your analyzer.

maximize life

To maximize the life and care of your electrodes, we recommend the following:

1. Open only one pad package at a time.

2. After opening a package, try to use the electrodes within 30 days. It’s often a good idea to write the date the box was opened on the outside of the box.

3. To store pads, reseal the pads package by folding over the open end and placing the package in an airtight container or resealable bag to ensure the remaining pads do not dry out. Electrodes will dry out quickly if left open and exposed to the elements. Store the pads in a cool, dry place and avoid storing the pads in locations where they may be exposed to excessive heat or cold.

4. Unopened pad packaging has a shelf life of approximately 15 to 24 months, depending on the expiration date printed on the packaging. Never use pads that have passed their expiration date.

Other important points of care

Electrodes are designed to be disposable and will not be reused. Reusing electrodes may produce unexpected results. Additionally, for clean and hygienic practices, electrodes should only be used once.

We do not recommend bisecting the electrodes as this will lead to inconsistent results. Instead, use the entire electrode to ensure proper adhesion and electrode placement on the skin.

The author applies maximum pressure at the tip of his stroke arch; Lifting higher can mean too much risk for the rod for too little gain. David Lewis

Our panga was rolling in a powerful Pacific swell just a few hundred yards off a rocky peninsula while the skipper used the motor to keep us in a position that was both safe and close enough for us to set our bait in the sweet spot behind the heaving green mass could throw water. An angler balanced precariously on the raised foredeck and launched a popper, an industrial-size lure that drew a graceful arc.

The second it splashed down behind the breaking crest of a swell, he snapped the spinner’s bail shut and, with a stiff pop action, began dipping the cup-shaped bait over the wave.

Moments later, the surface to the right of the popper was boiling when a rusty brown figure suddenly appeared and inhaled the bait. The line tightened, the rod flexed and – despite a near-locked brake – a trophy-proportioned Cubera effortlessly yanked yards of line on her first red-hot run straight for the reef. As the angler braced himself against the fish, a resounding bang echoed around the boat. The rod had snapped about 12 inches from the tip, snapping the line in the process. Hero to zero in a split second. The lad threw his broken rod on the deck in disgust and loudly berated his manufacturer for a poorly built product.

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It is quite possible that this rod had a stress point in the past and only showed itself under high tension. Scott Kerrigan / www.aquapaparazzi.com

I’ve seen similar scenarios in numerous places around the world and found that anglers often blame the rod manufacturer. For the most part, however, I was convinced that this was not the case. But of course it’s not a good idea to suggest that the angler is to blame – who has just lost a good fish, maybe even the catch of a lifetime, and broke an expensive rod in the process.

Admittedly, on a few rare occasions I have felt that the broken rod was probably due to a manufacturing defect. For example, many years ago on a trip I hosted to Norway, five anglers each bought identical four piece travel rods specifically for the trip. But within hours of fishing the first morning, four of those rods snapped. Each had failed in exactly the same place, leaving little doubt that the poles were to blame.

Like most anglers I have my own ideas and theories about how and why rods break when fighting fish, but rather than speculate I sought insight from leading industry insiders and experienced fishing guides on what causes rods to break under stress.

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A staff snapped under pressure. Jon Whittle / Sport Fishing

Three reasons rods break

Trey Epich, product planning manager for reels and rods at Shimano, lists the three causes of rod breakage in use:

1) The rod has been damaged in some way (in a way that is not visible) during transport or handling;

2) high-sticking when fighting a fish;

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3) Mismatched tackle, such as when an angler fishes with a reel or line that is too heavy for a particular rod.

Epich continues: “When an angler is targeting fish with an appropriate tackle system suited to the species intended, an angler should never have to ask themselves: will my rod break if I pull too hard?” Epich mentions important points that must be taken into account when selecting the device. “Make sure your reel’s drag setting, line weight and rod ratings are balanced. For example, you should not attempt to fish a large saltwater spinning reel at the full drag setting on a rod rated to test up to 30 pounds. Also, I regularly see anglers loading relatively small reels with very thin, very strong braided line that is well above the maximum rating for their rod.”

Too often, in the excitement of battle (especially towards the end of the game), even experienced anglers will hold their rods up in the air, an action known as high-sticking. Perhaps more rods break at this point than in any other usage situation. To avoid this, Epich recommends holding the rod at an angle of between 45 and 60 degrees when connected.

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Lightweight rods may seem superior for big fish, but exceptionally high quality rods like this Hanta are designed to handle surprising loads. Scott Salyers / sport fishing

According to Justin Poe, vice president of sales and marketing at Accurate Fishing, the number one cause of rod breakage is invariably abuse or mishandling. “Often rods break before they break.” As examples, he cites a rod hitting a ceiling fan, being dropped against an immovable object, or allowing a plumb bob or jig hooked into a rod holder to bang against it during the long run to a fishing spot to hit blank. “While none of these things can cause a rod to break in an obvious way, once the fibers expand or contract at the damaged spot during a fight with a good fish, that rod will break.”

Christopher Cathcart, Research and Development Manager at Pure Fishing, points out that “usually a manufacturing defect will show up fairly quickly, either when casting or playing a fish. When a rod has been fishing for several months and then suddenly breaks, it usually has to do with something other than a manufacturing defect.”

Some anglers make the mistake of pairing a big reel and 80lb braid like this Penn Torque with a rod designed for something smaller. Adrian E Gray

understand mistakes

What rod breaks look like, Epich says, can reveal the cause of a break. For rod materials, however, “we don’t see much difference in fractures between other materials, except that a rod with a higher graphite content has a more sheared/fragmented fracture, while one with a higher glass content has a more fragmented fracture.

“When we see rods that have broken into three or four pieces, it is an indication that more force has been applied to the rod than its maximum designed breaking strength. When we test our rods for breaking strength in a ‘hang down’ test, they almost always break into multiple pieces,” Epich continues. “However, if you see a rod break 12″ to 18″ from the tip, that is the result of high sticking.”

It’s pretty easy to see why a blank failed, Poe agrees. An impact blow leaves a small crater on the blank. Many rods, such as B. Accurates are coated with a clear coat, which protects the blank from impact and UV rays, but also helps to identify impacts as a cloudy spot likely to be near the break. “I have never seen a rod break in two while testing or on the water from the pull. If the bar is overloaded, it will break into three or more pieces unless there has been an impact.”

Shimano’s Spiral X bar construction increases strength. Courtesy of Shimano

add starch

“Fiberglass rods are typically stronger than carbon (graphite) rods,” says Cathcart, but they don’t have the sensitivity or weight savings. Carbon rods therefore give you some advantages over glass, but require more care as the nature of the material makes them more prone to damage and breakage. Advanced materials and resin systems are helping to bridge this gap and we use some of these in our rods today.”

In fact, most rod manufacturers add materials during the manufacturing process to reinforce the blanks. For example, Shimano uses what they call Spiral-X and Hi Power-X technologies to avoid breakages that could be caused by previous impacts. “Furthermore,” says Epich, “these two blank technologies contribute to the torsional rigidity of the blank and increase compressive strength, resulting in less blank ‘ovalization’ and breakage.”

One strategy employed by Accurate wraps a high modulus carbon band around the entire blank, forming an “X” pattern. This strengthens the blank, making it durable and impact resistant, Poe says (and adding that it also “looks cool”).

Curse of the high rod. Even experienced anglers can get a little over enthusiastic when trying to lure in a big fish near the boat. This is particularly easy with Fasttaper bars, which can easily snap into place in the stressed upper area. Also, this angler makes a second mistake that can lead to a broken rod by holding her hand high on the rod blank, over the top grip where it should be. This changes the loading dynamics and subjects the bar to loads it was not designed to withstand. Adrian E Gray

The multipiece factor

Multi-section travel rods come with a separate set of cautions for anglers, because “if the clamp joints aren’t mated properly, it would be like hoping for the best in your PVC sprinkler pipe by gluing it in halfway down,” says Poe . “The ferrule is designed to enclose the joint and give it all the contact points for stability. If these don’t fit properly, when you bend the stick you will often hear what we call “stick tapping” i.e. “stick tapping”. H. the male end rattles in the female end of the ferrule.”

Poe adds, “This will eventually wear out the inside of the joint. As long as the ferrules fit snugly, a split rod will be just as strong as a one-piece – some would say stronger – provided the ferrules are in the right places. Some argue that ferrules create hard spots that impede action on split rods, but I think the technology today is so good that most anglers would never know a rod was split [from the action].”

Cathcart agrees that “split rods have a reputation for being weaker, but when designed properly they can be very strong.” He cites modern split fly rods and also some saltwater jigging rods with detachable sections where the Rod slides into the top of the handle sections. “Rods like these see a lot of pressure and hold up well,” says Cathcart.

Current slow pitch jigging rods have a very slow, even taper and bend from tip to reel, but can take a surprising amount of pressure, as seen in this angler versus amberjack battle. However, it is better to keep the leading hand on the short foregrip rather than the rod itself, although the latter is easy. Doug Olander / Sport Fishing

Jigging rods are exposed to maximum loads

A rod built solely for optimal performance or sensitivity, where strength is secondary, could be more prone to breakage if mishandled, Poe claims. But most rods are made up of multiple layers, varying in number, thickness, orientation and material, Cathcart says, to improve performance while making them stronger.

Jig rods in particular seem to be routinely exposed to the highest loads. Cathcart points out that “these rods take a lot of abuse from both baiting and playing. You need a rod that is flexible enough to work a lure properly but strong enough to land a fish. For this reason the design of the rod is very important.

“You will see a lot of modern jigging rods with a slower action in the blank; This allows the rod to flex more towards the mid and butt ends under load, helping to spread the load over a longer section of the blank. It also makes working with lures a little easier.”

Slacken a brake and allow enough line slack in the endgame to avoid a sudden rod snap. David Lewis

Perspectives of the guides

Capt. Skip Nielsen began his guiding career back in 1973 and still charts the Keys almost daily from Bud n’ Mary’s Fishing Marina in Islamorada, Florida. Nielsen’s clients routinely catch 100+ pound tarpoons along with giant sharks and groupers. How do today’s rods compare to the ones he used when he first started fishing?

“In the past, the high quality one-piece fiberglass rods were pretty hard to break. When graphite rods came out, they broke fairly easily. I was always looking for a stick that wouldn’t break trying to pump up a big grouper with a 50-pound line,” says Nielsen. “Rods tended to break when anglers were fighting fish straight up and down: it’s all about the angle.”

Captain Ricky Stanczyk, co-owner of Bud n’ Mary’s Marina and a busy backcountry guide, says, “Today’s rods are amazing, but there are still dos and don’ts. The number one cause of rod breakage is in my experience angler error.” Unsurprisingly, Stanczyk then cites high sticking because it “puts pressure on the tip part of the rod, as opposed to the backbone; this breaks the more fragile tip.”

Read Next: Nine New Fishing Rods

And Stanczyk points out that, as industry insiders have noted above, anglers can easily load reel and rod combos with a thin braid that is much stronger than the rod’s intended use. And the temptation to do so is clear: this line fits snugly enough on the spool and casts easily on the lighter rod. However, this situation can be difficult for rods.

About the author

Dave Lewis, a retired firefighter and UK-based fishing photojournalist, has his work regularly featured in publications around the world. He travels extensively, acting as a host and guide for groups of sport fishermen traveling to salt and freshwater destinations (visit davelewisfishing.com). His latest book Destination Angler 2 was published in summer 2018.

Fishing rods today are made from a variety of materials such as fiberglass and graphite and each angler will have their own answer as to which is the best. Although it ultimately comes down to personal preference as to whether you prefer a fiberglass fishing rod to a composite rod, there is some general advice we can offer to help you make the right choice. Here we compare four popular fishing rod materials to help you find the right material for your fishing needs, and share what we think the pros and cons of each material are.

fiberglass rods | Graphite Rods | composite rods | bamboo sticks | Considerations when choosing a rod

Fiberglass fishing rods

Fiberglass fishing rods appeared in the 1940s and were made as a cheaper, lighter and more durable alternative to traditional bamboo rods. Fiberglass rods quickly gained popularity and became the standard for dedicated and amateur anglers well into the 1980’s. Today, fiberglass fishing rods remain popular with beginners as they are touted for their ability to withstand the tugs, snaps and other harsh movements typical of novice anglers. Fiberglass rods also tend to be more forgiving for beginners as their medium slow action gives the user more time to correct.

When to choose fiber optics

Choose a fiberglass fishing rod when you want something durable but not so stiff that it snaps through soft-mouthed species. The relatively slow action of a fiberglass rod is also useful when tangling with big fish, as the added drag can help set your hook firmly while protecting your rod from accidental breakage.

Fiberglass works best for small to medium sized streams and while some distance can be achieved we recommend sticking with precision casting with fiberglass. If you plan to fish with a novice angler or teach a young fisherman to fish, try giving him a fiberglass rod. Lightweight yet durable enough to withstand a lot of trial and error, anglers of any skill level can fish all day with a fiberglass rod.

Advantages of fiberglass rods

best

Flexible for optimal air resistance

Continuous

Low maintenance

Easy

Disadvantages of fiberglass rods

Little sensitivity

low current

Reduced accuracy at longer distances

Which fiberglass rod should you buy?

While fiberglass is considered the cheapest fishing rod material, that doesn’t mean you should go for the cheapest fiberglass rod you can get your hands on. Due to its high flexibility and slow action, choosing a higher quality fiberglass will help you retain the greatest possible sensitivity, which will help improve accuracy over longer distances and make fishing a more enjoyable experience.

When choosing a fiberglass rod, you should definitely consider your budget. Aim for a rod with a significant number of reviews stating this rod has the sensitivity, durability and action you are looking for.

Buy fiberglass rods on Amazon

Graphite Fishing Rods

After hitting the market in the 1960’s, graphite fishing rods saw their big break in the 80’s and quickly became a favorite of professional anglers looking for highly sensitive rods. Slightly lighter than fiberglass and with faster action and higher power, graphite fishing rods are preferred by more experienced anglers looking for a versatile rod. Because graphite is stiff and unyielding, graphite fishing rods are available in longer lengths than fiberglass, allowing for improved range and accuracy at range.

When to choose graphite

Graphite is considered by many to be the superior version of fiberglass, but while graphite can withstand more intense conditions than fiberglass and may be better suited to catching larger fish, one cannot replace the other. Graphite is best suited for experienced anglers who don’t mind the fast action of a graphite rod. Little flexibility means you have to have perfect timing to hook your catch on a graphite rod.

Choose a graphite fishing rod for fly fishing in big rivers or fishing in high winds, but be careful. Graphite can be strong, but with little flexibility or compliance, graphite can also be brittle and break under the wrong conditions. Get caught on a rock or the bottom of a stream and you could accidentally break your rod trying to untangle. Should you break your rod you will have to shell out a pretty penny for a replacement as graphite is by far the most expensive fishing rod material currently available on the mass market.

Advantages of graphite rods

super sensitive

Easy

Powerful

Precise

Disadvantages of graphite rods

Brittle/rigid

most expensive

Which Graphite Rod Should You Buy?

Graphite rods don’t come cheap, but spending a few extra dollars to get a quality graphite rod could be one of the best decisions you will ever make. Fishing with a high-performance, super-sensitive graphite rod is a real treat and once you’ve made your decision to go with graphite, we know you’ll struggle to return to less-performing alternatives. Therefore, when searching, you should pay attention to reviews of the general sensitivity and accuracy of casting. You should read reviews of extreme sensitivity so you can feel even the lightest fish gain weight on the other end.

Buy graphite rods on Amazon

Composite Fishing Rods

Composite fishing rods are rods made from a combination of fiberglass and graphite parts, often with other materials included to improve integrity. As the combination would suggest, composite fishing rods incorporate the best qualities of both fiberglass and graphite, making them popular with anglers looking to improve their game without spending too much money on a graphite rod.

Depending on where the fiberglass and graphite components of a composite rod meet, the rod will exhibit different levels of flexibility and strength. Some composite rods are built to flex close to the butt like fiberglass rods, while others are more rigid like graphite. With the flexibility of fiberglass and the sensitivity of graphite, composite rods are more versatile than single material rods and also less expensive.

When to choose Composite

Composite rods are often easier to handle than fiberglass and graphite fishing rods, making them ideal for both novice and experienced anglers looking for a good middle ground. Composite rods, like fiberglass, are forgiving and have little drag, which helps less experienced anglers hook a fish even when it’s just started. Like graphite, composite rods can also perform well, making them ideal for windy conditions and bigger currents. Composite rods break less easily than graphite but are less pliable than fiberglass. They’re a great compromise when you just can’t make up your mind.

Advantages of composite rods

Customizable speed/action

Flexible

Continuous

Versatile

Disadvantages of composite bars

Often more expensive than fiberglass rods

Less accurate than graphite

Which Composite Rod Should You Buy?

If you want the best of both worlds and are looking for a rod that offers flexibility and strength, Composite is the right choice. When you look at composite rods, you should understand that you can find a balance of sensitivity and action that works for you. Experienced anglers will likely want sensitive rods with a fast action, and less experienced anglers may want to look for rods that have a slow to medium action for forgiveness.

Buy composite rods on Amazon

Bamboo fishing rods

The “OG” fishing rod material, bamboo rods have been around for centuries and were once the primary tool of professional anglers everywhere. Bamboo is naturally fibrous and pliable, making bamboo sticks flexible and sensitive to even the slightest pull. Bamboo fishing rods are slightly heavier than fiberglass, have an “organic” feel in the hand and are less likely to break under pressure. Although bamboo rods can be used in many circumstances we do not recommend bamboo for precision casting and suggest that in relatively good weather you stick to small/medium streams when using bamboo.

When to choose bamboo

If you’re looking for a classic fishing experience, you can’t go wrong with a bamboo rod. Bamboo bends and pulls on its own making it excellent for dry flies and fighting medium sized fish. Do you really want to feel what’s going on under the water surface? Bamboo is the way to go. You’ll feel every pull and vibration when you choose a bamboo fishing rod, which is great for catching barely-there bites but can make fishing difficult in windy conditions.

Fishing with a bamboo rod can be a lot of fun, but you might want to pack a fiberglass or graphite rod if you plan to be out on the water all day. A well made bamboo rod can be quite heavy and while you may not feel it for the first few hours of fishing, trying to fish a bamboo rod all day will surely tire your arms.

Benefits of Bamboo Sticks

Nice

super sensitive

Flexible

Continuous

Disadvantages of bamboo sticks

Difficult

Not versatile

Expensive

Difficult for all day use

Which Bamboo Rod Should You Buy?

Bamboo may be the OG fishing rod material, but being “classic” doesn’t make bamboo any more affordable. While you might be tempted to go with the cheapest bamboo rod you can find, that would probably be a mistake, as inferior quality, improperly finished bamboo can be stiff, brittle and uncomfortable to fish with. If you want the best and most authentic bamboo rod fishing experience, we encourage you to try a premium handcrafted rod that will give you the kind of precision you’ve only dreamed of.

Buy bamboo poles on Amazon

Considerations when choosing a rod

Many of the following considerations apply to all types of fishing rods, baitcast, spinning and fly rods.

action

A rod’s “action” describes how far it will bend under pressure. A fast action rod is stiffer than a medium action rod, which in turn is stiffer than a slow action rod. When cast, the rods flex, storing energy that is released as they swing back to release the line. A stiffer, higher action rod will bend closer to the tip and release quickly, while a softer, slower action rod will bend closer to the hands and take longer to discharge.

Fast action rods

Little flexibility

Powerful casts/fast line speed

Fast unloading (requires good timing)

Best for experienced people

Rods with moderate action

Moderate flexibility that allows for fluid movement

Moderate unloading with forgiving timing

Good for beginners and advanced

Slow action rods

Highly flexible

Slow line speed

Slow discharge for improved control

Good for beginners and advanced

Best for shorter casts

perfomance

The “power” of the rod describes how much pressure is required to bend the rod. Thicker, stiffer, faster action rods tend to be high performance rods too and produce powerful casts. Thinner, more flexible rods have less power and produce slower, smaller and more controlled casts that are best in streams and small rivers.

If you fish in the sea you need a stronger rod than in fresh water. When you need to cast heavy and big weights, you need a stronger rod.

Price

You need to know your price range in order to make the right decision. If your budget is at the lower end of the market. As mentioned earlier if you are in a lower price bracket you should aim for a mid range fiberglass or composite rod. We do not recommend going for a bamboo rod unless you are on a bigger budget and are dying to go with a classic style rod.

Guarantee & service from the brand

Many brands offer lifetime services, offering free repairs and discounted parts to owners of their high-end rods. If you fish frequently, having your rod covered by warranty can save you a lot of money on repairs and a lot of stress, knowing your season won’t be interrupted by a broken part.

Whether your price range is low or high, guarantees are really important to look out for. Go for a brand or product that offers quality service and reviews, and when problems arise, see reports that the company has helped.

weight

Fly rods are more often measured by weight than spinning rods, but quite simply, you need to know what you are going to be fishing for. Check out the table below for help.

Weight 1-4: Small trout, panfish; small streams and ponds

Weight 5: trout, small perch; medium rivers and lakes

Weight 6: perch, small salmon; medium and large rivers

Weight 7-8: Steelhead, Salmon; large rivers, lakes and salt water

Weight 9+: Saltwater; big rivers, big lakes, salt water

Looks

If looks are important to you, you can opt for a bamboo stick or a sleek new modern composite or graphite stick. If it matters, then just see what you like best.

Balance with your role

If you already have a reel you want a rod that will match the weight of that reel. An ultra light rod is not good for a big reel. Make sure your rod matches the reel you have or are looking for.

general feeling

Everyone is unique, so spending some hands-on time with a rod before you buy it can help to determine if you like the overall feel. It should be comfortable to hold, easy to maneuver and a comfortable length. This is a good time to see how you like the casting and if the rod has the sensitivity you want.

Feel tends to be even more important for fly fishermen.

experience level

When choosing a fly rod it is important to keep your personal level of experience in mind. If you are a beginner, a medium action, medium weight rod is the best choice as it offers the best control. Fast action, high performance rods can be difficult to learn and are best reserved for experienced anglers.

THE WORLD OF STEEL RODS

Before there were graphite fishing rods, there were fiberglass rods. In the 1980’s there were fishing rods made from boron. They were reported to be very delicate rods. Unfortunately, these boron bars had a major flaw. They disintegrated after prolonged exposure to the sun; a very uncomfortable feature on a fishing rod. But before fiberglass there were only two other options in fishing rods in general; bamboo or steel. Bamboo was mainly used in fly rods.

For much of the rest of the angling world, fishing for walleye, perch, pike and even musky in the early part of the 20th century, the only reasonable alternative to the cane rod at one end or bamboo fly rods at the other end of the spectrum was steel fishing rods. These were the common man’s fishing poles; the meat-and-potato guy and/or the booze-and-beer fisherman.

Steel rods were most popular in the early years of the last century during both world wars, but lost popularity in the early 1950s as more and more fishermen switched to fiberglass. Those old steel bars were cast iron bars. This was due to the fact that spinning and slingshot equipment only became available after World War II.

I remember my father had a cast steel rod. My grandfather gave him the rod with a casting reel sometime around the time I was born in 1949. I remember using this rod from time to time during my childhood. I wasn’t very good at casting those old reels but it was a great rod for bait fishing. His throwing staff was a solid steel staff. Usually these were square bars with steel edges. The one my dad had was actually pretty supple, but in general most solid steel bars were a bit stiff.

When I was a little boy, my grandfather gave me a solid steel bar. I think it was originally a longer wand but when I got it it was shortened with the wand tip soldered on. I remember not using it as much as my fiberglass spincast rod as it was a lot stiffer. Still, I caught my fair share of bullheads with it. It now hangs on the wall in my office.

The other type of steel bars were tubular cast steel bars. These poles were hollow. They were also very supple and soft. I recently found a December 1949 issue of Sports Afield magazine, published the same month and year of my birth. Their freshwater fishing editor was the legendary Jason Lucas, and he said, “Cast steel rods are far more popular…a vast majority of plug casters use them.” In the same article, he advised solid steel rods, saying, “For rough fishing and rough handling a solid steel rod is best… but few will like a solid steel rod over four and a half feet the longer ones are either very slow action or top heavy.”

I remember another steel bar from my youth. My neighbor was moving and threw away some stuff including an old steel bar and asked me if I wanted it. It was a tubular bar with a rubber grip and one of the guides was missing. It was pretty broken when I got it, but I didn’t have much gear at the time so it was a nice addition to my sparse stash of fishing gear. With all the paint chipped off, I could still make out the Heddon name on the pole. I found an old reel to put on and used it for bait fishing. Somehow it survived my childhood and I still have it. It was in my parents’ basement when one day, long after I left home, my father asked me if I still wanted it. I said, “Hell yes.” Last but not least, it was a nice reminder of my youth.

It sat on the hearth of my family room fireplace for a number of years, but a few years ago I decided I wanted to fish it again. At another junk shop I found an old metal reel that still had the braided camouflage line popular in the 1950’s. I took it out on a fall in the Mississippi and fished it again. It hadn’t been used in maybe 40 years. I caught a few suckers and white bass with it and then caught a bigger fish. It was one hell of a fight and I now wish I had reconsidered using something other than that old braided line. The line held and so did the rod; even with the missing eye. The fish turned out to be a 30 inch sturgeon. With this fish I pulled the rod back into the family room.

This experience gave me a new interest in these old steel bars. And from there I started looking for them as I browsed through antique shops, junk shops and flea markets. I bought one for $6 at an antique store in my hometown of Hudson. It was a solid steel bar made by the American Fork and Hoe Company of Geneva, Ohio. It has a unique reel lock with a spring loaded slide bar that locks onto the reel. It intrigued me as I had never seen this before. The name was Speedlock which was written on the handle and must have been a relatively recent innovation for its time as there is a patent number on the reel handle. A google search shows the rod was made between 1910 and 1930. As an interesting side note, the American Fork and Hoe Company also made bayonets for M1 rifles during WWII.

A few months later I found a four piece solid steel rod with a cloth pouch. When assembled it was a 5 foot cast bar. The wand was manufactured by Union Hardware Company of Torrington, Connecticut. I wasn’t able to find out much about this rod, but from what I’ve pieced together it appears that the Union Hardware Company made skates and hacksaws in addition to fishing rods. I’m sure it was a great backpacking or travel rod in its day.

When spring came I started fishing the Mississippi and threw in the four piece casting rod with an old reel made by the Pennell Real Company of Philadelphia. The reel was old enough that it didn’t have a steady wind. The reel was a trademark for another company that used several different companies to actually manufacture their reels. My best guess is that the scroll was made in the first quarter of the 20th century. Fishing the Mississippi today seemed ideal.

The fish were banging when I told my buddy, “I have to try this.” Most of my fishing buddies are used to my various experiments, so he didn’t bat an eyelid when I got the cloth bag out of the rod case, assembled the rod and brought up this old role. The rod was quite stiff but I could feel the hits and within minutes I had my first fish with it. It was a little sucker. I released this fish and a few minutes later caught a nursing sucker which I put in the livewell. It worked, although the casting rod was so stiff I didn’t get much fighting out of the fish. But it was fun fishing with a rod and reel that probably hadn’t been used since WWII.

I bought another solid steel rod at a junk shop and it was a considerably lighter, smoother rod than the first few solid cast rods I found or the ones my grandfather gave me. It had the speedlock reel seat like the American Fork and Hoe Company rod I bought a few years earlier. However, this rod was a True Temper rod, so either the American Fork and Hoe Company incorporated True Temper or they made the rod for True Temper. This steel bar is four and a half feet long and I paired it with a Pflueger Trump roll. I went “old school” with the line and used 50 meter heavy black fishing line, like the line I remembered my grandfather using when I was a kid.

I was ready. I picked up this rig on a fall day on the Mississippi River while fishing for walleye and suckers. I used a 3 way rig with a jig on one hooklink and a beaded hook on another hooklink that was attached to a 3 way swivel. It’s basically a modification of the famous Wolf River rig that everyone used to fish when I was growing up. My intention was to catch a few fish with it and then switch back to my regular gear. The first fish hit and although it was a solid steel rod, the fish bent the rod in half as it sped away. A few minutes later I had the fish alongside the boat and was reeling it in. He was a retainer sucker and went into the livewell. A few minutes later I caught another fish and although it was too small to hold it put up a good fight on the steel rod. By late afternoon my mate and I were one fish off our combined limit of 12 fish and I had been using this steel rod all day. It was exciting to imagine myself fishing with a rod that had probably not been used in at least 50 years.

I found a pair of tubular steel Heddon rods at an antique store in Stillwater, Minnesota. I am guessing they were made sometime in the 1940’s and were in very good condition. One was five feet long and the other four and a half feet. I’ve merged the shorter one with the rest of my collection of old vintage gear. I decided to fish with the other one.

Almost all old cast metal coils used in the days when these metal rods were new were difficult to cast. Any of us who grew up in the 1950’s can well remember how frustrating it was for our fathers and grandfathers to teach us how to cast those old reels. Today they are hardly usable. So I rummaged around in the basement and found an old Ryobi casting reel I had when I started bass fishing in the 1980’s. The reel is no longer made so I’m guessing it qualifies as antique. It was maybe 40 years newer than the rod, but it was still an old reel. The ryobi still throws well, so it matched well. I admit that I used monofilament on the reel.

A month later I was fishing for smallmouth bass in Shell Lake in northern Wisconsin. I bought an odd looking contraption where the line came through the jig head and attached to a hook. I added a plastic crab to the jig. As an outdoor writer, I love experimenting with different baits. Who knows what you might find? Within minutes I had my first shot and as I set the hook I found that the steel bar was so soft it was difficult to get a good hook set. I had the fish on for a moment before losing it. The next time a fish surfaced I pulled up all the slack and let the fish come towards me as I set the hook. This one was on. The fish darted out of the water but the hook held and a moment or two later I landed it. I was very happy with the old rod and ryobi reel.

Later in the season I was at Deer Lake in Polk County fishing for largemouth bass. This time I cast a plug. When I was a kid, all hardwood or plastic lures were called plugs. I used a frog colored Lazy Ike. This Lazy Ike is still made but I remembered seeing similar ones when I was a kid so it seemed old enough to use with my Heddon steel rod and my Ryobi reel. I used it when fishing on a rocky bank where the water dropped off quickly. This time a fish hits the bait, it hits it hard enough to make the hook easier to set. This old cast steel pole came to life when a fish raced away and doubled over the pole. When I finished for the day I caught four or five bass and once again I wondered when was the last time a fisherman caught a bass with this Heddon rod.

A few months later, in the basement of a junk shop in central Wisconsin, I discovered a 9 foot telescopic tubular steel fly rod. I had never seen one before and found it hard to believe a fly rod could be made out of metal so I had to buy it. A few months later I was back at the same junk shop and found an old single action fly reel that seemed to fit perfectly. Although there were no markings on the reel, the rod had Sport King Model 70 stamped on the metal reel seat. I couldn’t find much information on the rod even with a google search but I read that Sport King rods are sold by Montgomery Ward. Sport King made a range of styles of metal rods, both telescopic and four piece fly and casting rods. My best guess is that the telescopic fly rod was probably sold before WWII.

On a recent spring crappie fishing trip, I took my Sport King telescopic fly rod to test it out. The pole was a bit heavy and awkward to use. It was difficult to use with the traditional casting methods, but I managed to get a fly out with it. I used a nymph a few feet below a punch gauge. It barely touched the water when the shot meter went down and I hooked it. The fish backed off and this fly rod flexed like any other fly rod I have ever used. The fish splashed to the surface and fought the rod. It was a hand-sized sunfish. I played around with it for the next half hour and caught half a dozen Bluegill. I was amazed at how sensitive this fly rod was. Although we caught about four dozen panfish the highlight of the day was catching this bluegill on a metal fly rod older than me.

With the fishing rods we have today, it’s hard to believe rods were once made out of metal. Those days are long gone but not forgotten and catching a fish with one of these rods is just as fun today as it must have been half a century or more ago.

By Anietra Hamper

Fishing reel maintenance provides a steady stream of business for The Fisherman’s Warehouse in Columbus, Ohio. Owner Mark Minshall spends a lot of time rewinding new line and replacing worn bearings, which are two of the main reasons reels don’t work properly.

According to Minshall, some problems are more common than others, and while most fixes are fairly simple, many can be prevented with basic maintenance. Spinning reels and baitcaster reels each have their own performance issues.

Here are the 10 most common role performance issues and how to fix them based on your role type.

spinning reel

1. Line rotation

Line twist is the most common problem with spinning reels and can occur for a number of reasons including long term general use. Some lures, like in-line spinners, will twist the line if the lure shaft is not straight. Line twist occurs when the lure, rather than the blade, rotates in the water as you reel and cast.

Line twist also occurs when hand-spooling new line, which can result in uneven and often slack line distribution. Line twist is a common problem with closed face Spinster reels that get tangled under the cap.

SOLUTION: If you have a line twist, the best remedy is to strip off the old line and attach a new one using a professional machine to get a tight and steady wind.

2. Bail spring

One of the biggest mechanical failures in spinning reels occurs with the internal bail springs. If the return spring does not unfold the shackle, the shackle springs are probably damaged. This can happen from impact or from long-term use.

It is important to note that a problem with the bail function can come from the bail wire and not the bail spring. Therefore it is important to first check for external deflection of the exposed wire before disassembling the reel to repair the spring.

FIX: Bail springs are easy and inexpensive to replace. If you have an older model reel, replacement parts can be difficult to find, but usually a reel repair expert can recommend a good replacement.

3. Slipping the braided line (spinning reel/baitcaster reel)

Recommended

Braided lines are very popular and are becoming more and more common. While braided line is extremely durable, it does not stretch, which can lead to tangling if the line slips around the spool. New users may not know that the smooth line is not easy to stick to the spool. Braided lines require some anchorage for the highest performance.

FIX: Attach a backing directly to the reel to hold the braided line. You can use a few wraps of monofilament line on the base of the spool before wrapping the braided line, or use electrical tape. Both options provide easy support to prevent line slippage.

4. Line Size

Many anglers simply use the wrong line size for their reel. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Using line that doesn’t fit the reel can affect performance and cause tangles and casting problems. Most often, anglers use a line that is too heavy for the reel.

FIX: Use manufacturer recommended line for your specific reel. They are usually printed directly on the reel spool or listed in the product information.

Baitcaster reel

5. level wind

The exposed wind on baitcaster reels makes it one of the most common maintenance problems. The steady wind is used to spool the line evenly when reeling. Driven by the worm gear, the level wind is regularly exposed to water, dirt, grit and sand, which can clog parts and affect smooth operation. This problem is common among anglers who fish from the bank and often put the rod on the bottom.

FIX: The bubble level is easy to replace when damaged, but often it just needs cleaning. Wiping after each use is recommended. It is also recommended to occasionally completely disassemble the reel to clean and lubricate the worm gear, which will allow the mechanics of the part to work properly. You can do this yourself for simple rolls, but professional cleaning may be required for complex rolls.

6. Paw damage

Any amount of debris in the worm gear assembly can prevent proper movement of the claw against the narrow rail, causing the gear to bind. This can result in gear tearing or an uneven run of the paw sticking to one side of the gear.

The result is a thread jam on one side of the bobbin. In this case, several parts often have to be replaced.

FIX: Due to the delicate nature of the paw, there is generally no fixation. I need to be replaced. You can prevent general wear and tear on your paw by regular cleaning and care.

7. Old camps

Plain and simple, bearings wear out over time. Dirt and grit are the most common causes of bearing damage, especially if the reel has been submerged. Underperforming bearings can affect casting and reeling of your line. When replacing bearings, you may want to upgrade to a higher performing, more durable model.

SOLUTION: Bearings can be removed and soaked in metal cleaner to degrease and remove dirt, but they are inexpensive and usually just easier to replace.

8. Over-lubrication

Lubricating the reel too much is just as bad as not lubricating it at all. Too much lubrication or the wrong lubrication will clog the bearings and reduce the overall performance of your reel. The result is too much resistance on the leash, slow functionality and more pressure required to turn the handle.

SOLUTION: Properly cleaning bearings from over-lubrication is almost impossible, so replacement is the best option. This problem is easily avoidable. Use just a drop of grease or oil on the bearing. Be sure to use the right lubricant for steel and ceramic bearings as they are not the same.

9. Corrosion

Corrosion can quickly affect the performance of your reel. Salt water is particularly hard on equipment. If left unclean, corrosion can permanently damage the equipment and all parts of your reel. Corrosion can also occur if rods are regularly placed on the ground and exposed to dirt or rod holders are used when it rains. Dirt splashing from the floor sticks to parts in the roller.

FIX: Too much damage to your reel and you may need to replace it. It is best to clean the level wind with a toothbrush several times per season to help with regular maintenance. If you fish in salt water, it is a good idea to rinse your reel in fresh water after each use. When you return home, wipe the pivots and knobs with a light coat of oil to prevent rust and corrosion.

10. Worn parts

General wear and tear will occur over time, but if you find parts wearing out quickly, it may be time to not just replace the internal mechanics, but upgrade them. Big game fishermen are the biggest category for this, as they compete for fish that manufacturer-supplied parts wear out quickly. Upgrading parts can make the reel spin faster, allow more control over the cast and provide longer lasting performance.

FIX: Replacing worn parts is generally pretty easy, but choosing quality upgrades requires professional input. The two most useful upgrades are the Gear and the Spool Bearing. The factory-installed steel bearing is often exchanged for ceramic, which requires less pressure.

Antique fishing reels tell the story of a popular sport and pastime that allowed people to enjoy the great outdoors while strengthening their pantries and coolers. As fishing has remained a popular American pastime, it is not surprising that it is also popular with antique collectors. Take a look at these somewhat overlooked historical artifacts and see if your grandparents or great-grandparents happen to have one worth a pretty penny. An antique fishing reel price guide can help you get started.

Antique Fishing Reels as Historical Technology It’s all too easy to overlook how revolutionary some technologies were to historical people when those technologies are considered commonplace today. The fishing reel is one such invention; first developed by the ancient Chinese, prototypes of the conventional reels used today, which wind the reel into a circular canister, were first used in the late 18th century. The development of special reels for different water conditions and fish species began in the middle of the 19th century. According to the Fisheries Museum, the Nottingham is believed to be the earliest known successful reel design, examples of which are incredibly collectible today. However, it was the move to metal spools to keep the wet wood from warping the cemented spools as a technology that was here to stay. Related Articles Antique Glass Carafes: From the Victorian to the Art Deco Era

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Vintage Fishing Reel Brands and Types Due to the specialization of reel types in the 19th and early 20th centuries, there are many, many different brands and styles of vintage reels to collect. However, these specializations are all visually distinctive and share their own unique traits that contribute to their collectability.

Fly Reels Fly reels were developed in the mid-1800s as narrow, single-action reels (one full turn of the handle equals one full turn of the reel) that helped hold the line in place. These reels were not designed for catching big game and were available in side reel and bottom rod formats. Some major reel manufacturers are: Heddon

Shakespeare

Hercules

tiller

Orvis

hardy

Casting Reels Casting reels were developed around the same time as fly reels and were designed to reel in line quickly. Most of these reels have a capacity of 60 to 100 yards, and the most famous of these reels, the Kentucky, is notable for its click-and-drag knobs on the headstock. Here are some of the most popular antique casting reel makers: Bradley

W. De Wald

Hardy Bros.

gentle

Waltonian

Chamberlin Cartridge Co.

Saltwater Reels Antique saltwater reels are much larger than the other reels, due in large part to the increase in size of the game being hunted, and they include specific types of reels such as trolling reels, surf reels, and big game reels. In terms of collectability, the larger the scroll, the more valuable it is. Some of the historic makers of these coveted reels include: Hardy Bros.

Imperial Montagu

Lees

BF Meek & Sons

Ohio Tool Co.

Shakespeare

Thompson

Spinning Reels Spinning reels are incredibly collectible due to their unique rudder-like design that is different from the other antique reels available. These spinning reels come in two specific classifications – open side and closed side. However, these reels fall into the vintage rather than antique category as they were first developed in the early to mid 20th century. Either way, if you are interested in collecting reels, you will find stiff competition in the spinning reel market. Here are some popular manufacturers of these vintage spinning reels: Hardy Bros.

Chippendale

Fin-Nor

Leighton

seamaster

taggart

Antique Fishing Reel Price Guide The value of antique fishing reels varies greatly by age, condition, rarity and type. For example, spinning reels are considered more collectible than throwing reels. Similarly, some collectors are very committed to certain brands, so keep in mind that rolls of brands may exceed their estimated value. Condition is superior to age in terms of collectability, but having the opportunity to browse through old trade catalogs to try and date your reels will not detract from their potential value.

Collect Antique Fishing Reels Like all sports memorabilia, antique fishing reels can in some cases be worth a few thousand dollars. On average, most of these collectibles are worth between $300 and $500. However, some specialty roles may exceed these amounts. For example, an 1890s walnut sea fishing reel is listed for about $950 at one auction, while an early Hardy fly reel is listed for just over $1,000 at another auction. Thankfully, there are plenty of resources to help you get started collecting these items, and auction sites and private sellers have plenty of these roles listed.

Equipment maintenance is crucial if you want your fishing reels to perform properly and last a long time. While learning how to oil a fishing reel doesn’t give most people the idea of ​​fun at first, once you learn how to clean and oil your reels, you can quickly and easily repeat the process. Here’s a quick step-by-step guide to oiling a fishing reel, especially a spinning reel.

Avoid using soaps or degreasers as they may damage the reel or leave residue. The best fishing reel oil is specially formulated for reel maintenance. Roller cleaning kits are available from most outdoor retailers, or you can assemble these items yourself:

your spinning reel

Reel Oil (make sure you research the best oil for fishing reels)

Roller Cleaner

Clean terry cloths

paper towels

cotton swab

Light bristle brush

Fishing reel oiling guide step by step

Prepare your workspace: Set up your workspace in a well-lit area. Place a clean cloth on a stable, flat surface to work on your roll. Clean and oil shackle: Open shackle, apply cleaning solvent to shackle connection points and line roller. Lightly scrub and wipe dry with a bristle brush and apply a few drops of reel oil to the bail connection points. Open and close the shackle several times to incorporate the oil. Clean and Oil the Spool: Unscrew and remove the drag knob, then remove the spool from the reel body and apply cleaning solution to the drag knob, inside of the spool and exposed areas. Wipe to remove dirt, debris or excess oil. Use cotton swabs to remove dirt from gaps and apply a few drops of roller oil to the mainshaft and gears. To reassemble, place the spool back on the reel body and reinstall the drag knob. Oiling the bearings in the reel body: Remove the screw cap on the reel body. Unscrew and remove the reel handle. Wipe the bearings with a cotton swab, removing any dirt or old grease. Apply a drop of reel oil to each bearing and pivots on the handle, reassemble the handle and screw cap. Oil the reel body: When finished, lightly wipe the entire reel with reel oil. This adds a protective layer and helps water bead up during use.

Keeping your gear clean is an important step in fishing and for quick maintenance you don’t have to clean the reel every time. Oil your reel every few times and give it a thorough clean occasionally. After use, rinse the rollers with gentle water pressure to prolong their life. Learn more about maintaining reel and line fishing gear.

There are many things to like about braided line…

It’s strong and thin, allows you to feel your bait or lure well, has little to no memory and is very durable.

One mistake people make that costs them time and money is replacing their braided line way more often than they should.

Unlike monofilament, braided line can stay on a spool for years without losing performance.

However, there are two main reasons that make you want to replace your braided line.

I’m going to share these two reasons with you in this video, as well as what causes them.

Let’s dive in!

When to Replace Your Braided Line [VIDEO]

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Because braided line is so strong and durable, you typically don’t need to replace it more often than every few years.

However, there are two reasons I definitely recommend putting new line on your reel:

The line is frayed You don’t have enough line left on your spool

Alter your line if the braid is frayed

If your line is frayed, it will be significantly weakened.

In the final section below, you can see how the line on the left looks a bit blurry compared to the line on the right.

This is a sign that your braid is frayed.

If you’re now pulling a ton of line out of your spool and it’s all frayed, it’s probably time to replace it.

It may also be a sign that the line roller on the bail has some corrosion, dirt or damage.

So check that and make sure it spins freely.

Also check the guides on your rod for chips, especially the top guide (which is usually the culprit).

You can do this by dabbing a cotton swab around the inside of each guide.

If something gets caught on the cotton, you may have a chip in it that could fray your cord.

Now, one last note about frayed lines: don’t confuse color fading with fraying of your line.

The color will definitely fade over time, but it’s the blur you’re really looking for here.

Change your braid when there is not enough left on the spool

Over time, as you tie on new hooklinks and clip tag ends, trim wind knots, or trim frayed sections of your line, it will shorten.

And when it gets shorter, two things can happen:

You lose throw distance. If you hook into a big fish, you could get spooled

So, if your reel has noticeably less line and you notice that you’re starting to lose casting distance, you might want to consider a switch.

Conclusion

Braided line can last for years on your reel so you don’t have to change it often.

However, here are two scenarios where you would need to change it:

A lot of line is frayed You don’t have that much braid left on your spool

Make sure your rods and reels are free of chips, debris and corrosion to reduce the chance of your line fraying.

You can grab a PowerPro coil from our store page here, and if you want 20% off, join us in the Insider Club!

Do you have questions about changing your braided line?

Let me know in the comments below.

And if you know someone who changes their braid too often, please tag or share with them!

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Fishing rods are very personal tools. Luckily, there are some useful guidelines for choosing the best fishing rod for any fishing task.

Most anglers focus their attention on rod material and action. That’s good, but it’s not enough. You also need to consider the rod length.

There is no doubt that bar materials are important. Today, most quality fishing rods are made of graphite, fiberglass, or a mix of both. In general, graphite is lighter and more sensitive (perfect for plastic worm and jig fishing), fiberglass is softer and more forgiving (great for many treble hook lures) and composites are a compromise between the two.

Actions are also critical. For lighter lines and lures, a light action rod is usually best. Medium or medium action rods are often a good choice for treble hook baits or for spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and bladed jigs that are fished quickly and produce ‘reaction hits’. Heavy action rods are the standard choice for single hook baits like plastic worms and jigs or for techniques like flippin and pitching.

But rod length has a huge – and underestimated – impact on your fishing.

Standard rod lengths have changed a lot in the last sixty years. In the early 1960s almost all bass rods were made of fiberglass and most were about 5 feet long. Reels weren’t the velvety smooth machines we have today and they couldn’t cast conventional lures very far, but that was okay. All of the fishing literature has told us over and over that if we could hit a pie plate 30 feet, we would be ready to conquer the bass world.

These conventions began to change a bit in the early 1970s. That’s when the flippin technique started to gain traction. It added a full two feet to the standard rod length of the day, and anglers saw some benefits. Because flippin’ was a sneaky, fixed-line presentation method that was great for presenting bait out to 20 feet, it didn’t affect cast length, but it was an eye-opener for many anglers when it came to leverage .

Plain and simple, you have a lot more power to set the hook with a long rod and this fact was amplified by the fishing lines of the day. Monofilaments like Berkley Trilene and DuPont Stren dominated the market. They were and are great, but there is a lot of stretch in mono and a longer rod helps overcome that.

As anglers began to see the benefits of longer rods, manufacturers took notice and rods got longer for every technique, not just flippin’. Longer rods and longer casts were important for lures like crankbaits (they dive deeper on a long cast) and for fishing in clear water (if you can see the fish, the fish can see you).

Over the years, increasing smart fishing pressure and advances in equipment have resulted in ever longer casts, making longer rods the norm. Will the trend continue or is it time the pendulum swung back to shorter rods? At the moment the bass market seems to have settled down to an average rod length of between 6 1/2 and 7 feet.

Ultimately, rod length affects four aspects of your fishing and should be considered when making any tackle selection.

Whether you’re learning to cast for the first time or just trying to improve your distance or accuracy with a rod and reel combination and your favorite lure, there are several factors that will determine how far and well you can cast a lure.

Here are some factors to consider when casting a fishing lure:

Rod action

rod length

line size

line material

bait weight

bait shape or size

wind

Distance between bait and rod tip

Each of these factors affects your ability to cast the bait where you want, and here’s how each should be considered to make you the best caster on the lake.

The action determines the load

When you pull back the rubber on a slingshot, the harder you pull back or “load” it, the farther your pellet will be shot. The same goes for a fishing rod. The more you can load the rod blank, the more you can cast a bait on the rod with the recoil.

If a rod has really heavy power and action, it won’t flex as much and won’t strain as much. Whereas a moderate action or medium power rod will load a lot more. However, there is a law of diminishing returns. If the rod has too light an action and too little power, the lure will become overpowering and with enough power it can even break a rod blank. So you want a rod with a moderate action and medium power to maximize your cast.

Longer means longer

A longer rod gives you a longer cast. It is really that easy. If power and action are equal, a 7ft rod will generally cast the same lure farther than a 6ft rod. Well, if the bait is light, like 1/8 ounce, it can be a little more manageable on a softer, shorter rod than on a longer rod. But let’s say at 1/2 or 3/4 ounces, an 8ft rod can cast a lure flat.

The line size can be a resistor

In short – a heavier, thicker line will not cast as well as a thinner, lighter line. So a 10 pound line will cast a lure much farther than a 20 pound line. The line is pulled less both in the guides and in the air. In other words, the weight of the lure and the force of the recoil on the rod can pull the line off the reel more easily when the line is lighter. This is one of the reasons why pros like Aaron Martens started using all braids. The spools spin faster with tighter wound, smaller diameter line.

Line material changes spacing

Thickness matters, as does the coating and material of the cord. A 30 lb braid will cast a lot further than a 20 lb fluorocarbon. That breaks the last rule, but remember that a 30-pound braid is smaller in diameter and the material has less resistance against the cast. This allows the bait to actually pull the line off the reel with less effort and friction when casting.

Weight adds distance

This is probably the easiest to understand, but a 1/2 ounce lure is easier to cast than a 1/8 ounce lure. The heavier a lure, the more distance you can reach with it. Because of this, with an 8ft crankbait rod and a 3/4 oz deep dive crankbait you can throw the backing off your reel, but you’ll have a hard time getting a small crankbait with a lighter line and a spinning rod very far to bring out. You can use many of the ideas from the other points to get more distance, but at the end of the day a heavier lure will generally cast farther.

The bait profile can hinder casting

If you have a bulky bait such as a large bladed and skirted spinnerbait with a flapping trailer, your cast can be shortened by the bait hanging up and creating drag in the air when cast. In general, a more aerodynamic profile will cast much better than a bulky, roomy profile on a lure.

I can whip a 1/4 oz dropshot a mile out there, but sometimes I struggle to get a 3/8 oz spinnerbait to go almost that far. The blades spin in the wind, the skirt catches air, and the bait lands like a kite on a cast. While a small worm throws a heavy weight at the end of the string like a ball.

Wind is usually not your friend

When trying to go the maximum distance, the wind can be your friend or foe. Putting the wind in your back and casting out with the wind can help sail a lure even further down the lake. However, if you turn and cast into or over the wind, it will catch the lure, causing more drag on your line and significantly shortening your cast, not to mention slowing down the casting speed of your lure, causing more overflow problems on your reel.

Play victory to maximize your distance.

Leave out the line to add distance

This is probably the most overlooked aspect of adding distance to your throw, but it’s also because we haven’t evolved from our original throwing instructions. When learning to cast we are often taught to hold the bait about 30cm from the end of the rod. A good place to start when focusing on thumb spools, angle, rod load, wind and other factors.

But as you become proficient in the cast, you need to start experimenting with how far you let the bait out to start the cast. Guys like Kevin VanDam and his nephew Jonathan VanDam achieve maximum casting distances because they “pull” longer than most anglers. I can tell you I was in the back of the boat while KVD casts deep diving crankbaits and the throw back and the distance the bait goes back and forth will raise the hairs on the back of your neck. On a 21-foot bass boat, you’ll want to crawl onto the hood of its Mercury engine to avoid smacking a Strike King 6XD in the cheek.

Letting the line out farther puts more stress on the rod and you have more pivot to drive the bait outward with more power and ultimately distance.

So if you’re looking to add feet and yards to your cast, consider how each of these factors will affect your tackle and lure choices, then play the odds and put the distance in your control to cast your favorite fishing lure.

I drove past a lake yesterday and was wondering why serious bass fishermen have so many rods in their arsenal. So I did a little research and this is what I learned.

So why do bass fishermen carry so many rods with them on the water? Perch fishermen like to carry different rods to suit fishing techniques, which can change quickly on the water. Various action rods, pre-baited, offer fishermen the flexibility to quickly change tactics and catch more fish.

This is generally true for bass fishermen but does not take into account all the factors that come into play. Let’s take a closer look at why it’s a good idea for anglers to have an abundance of rods on hand.

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REAL reasons bass fishermen carry so many rods

There are a number of reasons why bass fishermen like to fish with lots of rods on standby. I think the main motivation boils down to flexibility, comfort and speed. Contrary to what you might think, there are very important reasons why bass fishermen are gear junkies.

Let’s use a golf analogy to better understand this. Why do you think a golfer carries a bag full of clubs? The answer is because some clubs are drivers, some wedges and some putters.

A golfer could probably play an entire course with just one club, but he would do so far less efficiently than he could with the full selection.

Bass anglers see the right conditions on the water as well. By having many rods on standby for different scenarios, bass fishermen can save time and catch more fish.

Ultimately, the goal of bass fishing is to catch as many big fish as possible. By quickly adapting the presentation to changing conditions and fish behavior, the angler places themselves in the best possible position.

There’s a reason you won’t find a tournament pro bass angler that only works with one rod. This is because wasted time is potentially money lost.

Watch how often professional bass fishermen switch their rods and switch back again. You simply cannot perform these moves with just one or two rods on the boat.

Plenty of poles allow for an instant change in presentation

Imagine you’re jigging worms from the bottom and you see a couple of bass rise to the surface to hunt a small school of bass. You could be wasting valuable minutes reeling in your bait and re-tying a top water jerk lure.

Or you could grab your upper water rig and immediately cast a cast at those buoyant fish and have a shot at fish you might otherwise have missed. Fish hooking is often about being ready when the opportunity arises.

Many serious bass anglers have at least 3 rods on hand to fish most scenarios that might arise.

They have a medium action decoy launcher to get plastic deep under cover. This rod is typically a fast action model spooled with a heavy braid to quickly pull the bass out of cover to prevent breakage.

You can also have a spinning reel equipped with a medium strength crank bait for casting into narrow windows. Spinning rods are not as popular with bass anglers as casting rods, but offer much greater versatility.

Last but not least they could have a top water spinner lure or a plastic frog tied to a medium weight fast action lure launcher for surface fishing for ascending bass.

With 3-5 rods readily available at all times, a bass angler could be prepared for almost any realistic fishing scenario that might unfold. These extra rods are certainly not needed, but a prepared angler will catch more fish than an unprepared one.

Any good bass fisherman will tell you that switching rods is easier than tying a new bait. It’s also much faster.

Enough factors that negatively affect fishing are in your hands. Be prepared for what factors you can control. If you have the money and resources, have more rods ready to roll.

Different fishing situations require different rods

While you can certainly get away with a single rod, there are certain rods that are designed for specific fishing situations. There are rods that work very well with certain types of lures.

Spinning Rod: Drop shots, weightless baits, light soft plastics, bobbleheads

7 foot medium-heavy bait casting rod: buzz baits, spinner baits, Texas rigs, heavy soft plastics, frogs, jigs

7 foot medium bait casting rod: wobblers, smaller frogs, poppers, jerkbaits

As a general rule of thumb, bait casting equipment will require more casting space. They don’t work well in tight areas unless you’re spinning or throwing the baits for cover. Spinning rods are more versatile and offer bass anglers the opportunity to fish in tight spaces.

The combinations listed above can be interchanged, but many bass anglers stick with these tried and true combinations. Each of these lures are designed for different fishing scenarios and finding the right rod is important to most effectively fish each lure type.

Choosing the right tackle and bait for bass is vital. For a comprehensive breakdown of the best rods, reels, electronics, lines and lures for bass fishing, check out my list of recommended bass fishing gear. Always be the most prepared and equipped angler on the water.

Fishing line is sometimes more important than rods

Perhaps the most important factor when considering which rods to fish with is which lines are needed for which task.

When using a single rod, changing lures is fairly painless. This is as easy as re-tying a new hook onto your line.

However, the one thing you cannot change is the type of line that is spooled onto your reel. I think line type is the biggest driving factor why many serious bass fishermen carry many rods.

Baitcasting heavy jigs around cover requires a heavier line than zipping small spinnerbaits in open water. Some fishing situations call for the use of heavy braid, while others are better suited to thinner monofilament line.

There is no quick or efficient way to change a rod’s line while fishing in a boat. It can certainly be done, but that’s just not practical.

It is important that 2 rods are rigged with monofilament and at least one is spooled with heavy braid. You will catch more bass day after day if you follow this strategy.

Fishermen, like all hobbyists, love to collect new gear

This factor is perhaps the simplest we can think of. It doesn’t matter if your hobby is collecting sports memorabilia, art or fast cars. We all want more of what we love most.

They send any fisherman down the aisles of a good tackle shop and he’ll find some things he wants. He will find things he didn’t even know he needed.

Everyone wants the next gadget or rod. Even the fisherman who has every rod can sometimes be tempted to get another.

The improvement in technology and marketing makes us think we need the latest rod and reel combination. Our older equipment is perfectly fine. Nevertheless, a hobbyist wishes for more equipment. If you can afford it, who is harmed?

There was a time in my life when I haven’t fished in almost a decade due to career and life interests and I would still want to buy some lures and rods from any store I would go to. Heck, I’ve been hitting the outdoors a lot for this very reason.

I say if you have the money to spend, spend it. If buying 2 more fishing rods makes you a better angler then do it. The crazy truth is they could actually make you a more effective angler.

related questions

So what 3 rods should a perch fisherman have?

If you only had to choose 3 rods for bass fishing I would say choose a medium spinning rod for versatility and close range fishing, a 7ft medium casting rod for heavy baits and a 7ft medium casting rod for medium baits and plastics.

Could you effectively fish for bass with just one rod?

Yes, with just one rod you can fish perch in all situations. I would recommend either a medium action spinning rod or a medium action casting outfit.

I think the medium action baitcast rod is the most versatile bass rod you can use.

Should bank fishermen be expected to carry lots of rods too?

Inshore fishermen should not take more rods than they can comfortably carry. A perch angler fishing from a boat has the luxury of putting their rods in the boat and taking them anywhere in the lake.

Carry 1 or 2 rods but cannot be expected to carry 4 rods. A medium action casting rod is all you need from the bank anyway.

I fish from shore quite often, especially when my time is limited. If I only have a small window of opportunity, I’d much rather just walk the bank and maximize my fishing time than hook up and prep my perch boat.

I keep talking about one important aspect of bank fishing in particular: mobility is essential.

If you lug around a few rods and tackle you are less likely to change location and therefore catch a lot less bass. If you don’t pick them up from the bank, moving is always one of the best solutions. It’s hard when you look like a pack mule.

To help you learn from my past mistakes I have compiled a list of the three fishing rods you need to start fishing. It’s not brand specific or anything. Just find similar lengths and promotions from a company you like and roll with it. They will cover almost every technique imaginable.

1. 7ft medium action spinning rod

This will be the bread and butter rod for many anglers. You can use this rod for any type of weightless soft plastic, wobbly heads, ned rigs, light Texas rigs and any other finesse technique you prefer.

Having this rod, or one very similar to it, can be very rewarding – especially when you are fishing country ponds or rivers. In many situations, these fish are not used to the fishing pressure you would find in a large, public reservoir. They target a captive audience and stealth is key. I’ve seen many instances where a softmouth bass will startle before your bait even touches the water.

That’s where those weightless soft plastic or lightweight Texas rigs come in.

Most of the time my first few casts are always done with this rod and some kind of floating worm or crazy rig. I try to catch the creepy ones off guard, making quiet, subtle presentations with more nifty options before unleashing the heavier, more intrusive artillery.

In addition to its sheer effectiveness, this type of rod always makes a solid backup when you have family or friends fishing. Not everyone knows how to operate a baitcaster, so you can have this rod ready for anyone to use at any time.

Line: 8 pound monofilament or fluorocarbon. This is absolutely a matter of preference and to be honest I will switch between the two based on what I have on hand in my office. I don’t get too carried away by it.

Reel: I’ve been using a 2500 size 6.0:1 spinning reel lately and have really enjoyed it. The main concern here is to ensure the reel has a smooth braking system. You can’t always chase the fish while fishing from shore, so sometimes you really have to wear them down before you land them. A smooth draw results in fewer lost fish and missed opportunities.

2. 7 foot, medium weight casting rod

Versatility and power are the name of the game with this rod. It has enough tip to allow for tricky roll casts, but enough backbone to control the fight and handle most larger, hard-hitting lures with ease. If I had to choose one rod that I would use for the rest of my life, this would be it.

With a medium weight rod you can fish Texas rigs, smaller jigs, spinnerbaits, vibrating jigs, topwater baits, crankbaits and much more without sacrificing performance.

While many boat anglers prefer their mid-weight rods to be longer, I tend to stretch my rods to 7ft for bank fishing. You’ll often find yourself near dense, wooded areas with extremely narrow cast windows, so even a 6ft 6in model is a good choice. There’s nothing worse than setting the hook and getting your rod tip tangled in a pile of branches. Trust me – I’ve been there.

Cord: 15 or 17 pounds fluorocarbon.

Reel: I’d stick with something like 7.0:1 or faster. My thought process on this is pretty simple – I can always slow down with a faster roll, but I can’t always speed up with a slower roll. When that big bass is headed for a log and you don’t have a way to reach it from the bench, you need to eat up a lot of line as fast as you can.

3. Heavy action 7ft throwing rod

This stick will be your “meat stick”. If you fish in enough areas you will come across some waters with a lot of matted vegetation or dense tree cover. Being underpowered and underpowered in this situation rarely ends well.

If you are on a tight budget I would recommend making this particular rod your last priority when purchasing. It’s certainly an important piece of the puzzle, but it’s more for specialized techniques than anything else.

You can use this rod for 1/2 oz or heavier jigs, hollow bodied topwater frogs and even swimbaits if you are looking for a true trophy grade trout mouth. It won’t have much top end, so throwing will take a little practice to master, but it will have more than enough backbone to rip big bass out of the thickest cover on any given body of water.

Line: 20 to 25 pounds of fluorocarbon or 65 pounds of braided line for your frog fishing.

Reel: You will be presenting in some particularly precarious areas with this rod, so you will need a baitcaster with a high gear ratio – preferably 7.0:1 or greater. I recommend pulling the train down as hard as you can as I explain in this video.

Will other rods work for bank fishing? Absolutely they will. Everyone has different preferences when it comes to bass fishing, but if you’re looking to lighten your load from the bank this year these rods are an excellent place to start.